This is why you're the best, Ed! I don't do a lot of studio work, but back when I first took the plunge into off camera flash I consulted your examples regularly. Now I'm like a seasoned vet whenever I do need to set up some lights.
Love it man! This answer all the questions I’ve had. A few weeks back I went to Sammy’s camera and explained what I wanted to do and the gentlemen was trying to sell me something else. When all I wanted was triggers.
Mr. Verosky, you've started the year with a BANG! Anything about flash, from placement/distance to subject, level of out-put, multiple flashes, camera settings when using manual flash, out doors lighting, it all interest me at this time. Its also cool that you've explained little things like the flash mount and the sync cable. I previously thought that if I add a sync cable then my cheap flash became high speed and TTL! Happy New Year and "Goodlight," kind Sir.
It depends on how hot I want it, the color of the object/hair, etc. Usually, just enough to give me the highlight I'm looking for. I might start with 1 stop over the key light, take a test shot, then adjust. And Happy New Year to you!
Great video. I notice that the Youngnuo flash used in some of the video resembles a Sunpak DF3600U. Is this a re-branded flash? I have one of the Sunpak models and I really like it, but those are getting hard to find and are short only an internal radio trigger.
Out of curiosity do you always use just one unit for each lighting point or do you ever use two or three units on a multiple cold shoe adapter? I’ve noticed the more experienced strobists like yourself, who obviously know their kit the best, seem to use just one unit where I’d use two or three. I thought more units would give softer light, but again I’ve noticed the experienced strobists aren't afraid to move their light really close on and I know it’s the size of the softbox, umbrella or other modifier that counts as the size of the light. I really need to buy a manikin and to spend some time experimenting. Great video as always Ed, thank you.
When using a flash on a receiver, how do I set flash? Do I set flash Ettl, or manual? Does flash have to be in slave mode, or does it not matter how the flash is set when it on a receiver?
Other than setting shutter speed at flash sync, do you adjust aperture and ISO for a normal "correct exposure", according to the exposure meter, as if flash doesn't exist?? Thank you!
For an indoor shot, you set the ISO to the lowest setting if possible, and the aperture to whatever you want. The light power setting is adjusted for correct exposure. Adjust the shutter speed to control the level of ambient light.
Dear Ed, first of all Happy New Year to you. Thanks so much for your great and more than informative videos. I would like to raise a question to you. Unfortunately my camera (D5200) does not support high speed sync. While making low key portraits I try to overcome this issue by using a circular ND filter. What is your opinion about it, can come the ND filter really in handy in these situations, or does it result a very different picture quality in comparison to HSS?
I'm not sure I completely understand the question. High Speed Sync (HSS) is related to using flash (which adds light to the subject). ND filters subtract light. What is it you're trying to accomplish with these tools?
Ed Verosky, lets use your example 2x the power of the mainlight...what if you need to move the flash away from your subject, are you going add flash power?...or if you move the flash towards your subject, are going to subtract the flash value?...as i have emailed to you i had your ebook about using speedlight i just want to become particular on how you play the lights coming out from your flash...its kinda copying/experimenting your whole style thats what exactly i want to do...i want to learn a lot from experienced photographer like you...you have the knowledge i need, you have the quality of works worth to copy...
@@rafaelerum6600 For me, the ratio and position of the cross light, rim light, or hair light, is very dependent on the situation. For example, what kind of coverage do I need (top to bottom, or across) and how does it look against the tone of the skin or color of the hair, etc. It's like most things with lighting, you can have a starting point, but it's rarely the final recipe. Like if you're making soup with different ingredients all the time, you have to add salt according to taste. With lighting, there are always "test shots" because you just never know it's good until it's good.
Ed Verosky, i got your point!...it's always a part of experimenting...i thought every expirienced photographer set everything as it is without repeating or adjusting the whole process...now i know re-adjustment is a must if ever the results is not acceptable...
👉 Get your free bonus downloads here! edverosky.com/subscriber-bonus/
Fabulous tutorial. Simple. Straight to the point. Easy to understand.
You rock Ed. Thanks a million.
This is why you're the best, Ed! I don't do a lot of studio work, but back when I first took the plunge into off camera flash I consulted your examples regularly. Now I'm like a seasoned vet whenever I do need to set up some lights.
Oh, thanks for that, Jason. ☺️
Love it man! This answer all the questions I’ve had. A few weeks back I went to Sammy’s camera and explained what I wanted to do and the gentlemen was trying to sell me something else. When all I wanted was triggers.
A good starter advice on having a go at of camera flash. There are plenty of cheap Chinese speedlites and modifiers.
Mr. Verosky, you've started the year with a BANG! Anything about flash, from placement/distance to subject, level of out-put, multiple flashes, camera settings when using manual flash, out doors lighting, it all interest me at this time. Its also cool that you've explained little things like the flash mount and the sync cable. I previously thought that if I add a sync cable then my cheap flash became high speed and TTL! Happy New Year and "Goodlight," kind Sir.
Thank you, Rick. I very much appreciate your comment!
hello ed verosky I am a fan of your work, you can explain us how to adjust the camera to use two flash
Thanks
Very dramatic. At what distance the flash should be placed from the subject and how to calculate that distance ?
Do you have a video on Yongnuo 685 flash? Frustrated with the videos out there so far.
Thanks,I'd like to know what setting you'd use for the hair light. Also belated Happy New Year to you.
It depends on how hot I want it, the color of the object/hair, etc. Usually, just enough to give me the highlight I'm looking for. I might start with 1 stop over the key light, take a test shot, then adjust. And Happy New Year to you!
awesome tutorial!!
Thanks!
Great video. I notice that the Youngnuo flash used in some of the video resembles a Sunpak DF3600U. Is this a re-branded flash? I have one of the Sunpak models and I really like it, but those are getting hard to find and are short only an internal radio trigger.
I’m not aware of that but it wouldn’t surprise me.
Would the same apply when using a film camera such as an SLR?
Out of curiosity do you always use just one unit for each lighting point or do you ever use two or three units on a multiple cold shoe adapter? I’ve noticed the more experienced strobists like yourself, who obviously know their kit the best, seem to use just one unit where I’d use two or three. I thought more units would give softer light, but again I’ve noticed the experienced strobists aren't afraid to move their light really close on and I know it’s the size of the softbox, umbrella or other modifier that counts as the size of the light. I really need to buy a manikin and to spend some time experimenting. Great video as always Ed, thank you.
Thanks, Mark. Yeah, I just use one flash for each point usually. If I needed more power I’d have no problem using more units. Whatever works.
Ed Verosky Thanks Ed.
When using a flash on a receiver, how do I set flash? Do I set flash Ettl, or manual? Does flash have to be in slave mode, or does it not matter how the flash is set when it on a receiver?
Other than setting shutter speed at flash sync, do you adjust aperture and ISO for a normal "correct exposure", according to the exposure meter, as if flash doesn't exist??
Thank you!
For an indoor shot, you set the ISO to the lowest setting if possible, and the aperture to whatever you want. The light power setting is adjusted for correct exposure. Adjust the shutter speed to control the level of ambient light.
Dear Ed, first of all Happy New Year to you. Thanks so much for your great and more than informative videos. I would like to raise a question to you. Unfortunately my camera (D5200) does not support high speed sync. While making low key portraits I try to overcome this issue by using a circular ND filter. What is your opinion about it, can come the ND filter really in handy in these situations, or does it result a very different picture quality in comparison to HSS?
I'm not sure I completely understand the question. High Speed Sync (HSS) is related to using flash (which adds light to the subject). ND filters subtract light. What is it you're trying to accomplish with these tools?
hello sir ed, what was that black thing you put in the flash to create the image with black background?
A small piece of crafting foam to help block some of the light. But you can use anything that works.
Sir one thing which I feel using yougnu trigger yn622 with speed light image is not so sharp as I use with pop up flash using slave mode why is it .
...what is the flash power of your rim light?
It depends on things like distance and effect I’m going for. But a good starting point for me is about 2X the power of the key light.
Ed Verosky, lets use your example 2x the power of the mainlight...what if you need to move the flash away from your subject, are you going add flash power?...or if you move the flash towards your subject, are going to subtract the flash value?...as i have emailed to you i had your ebook about using speedlight i just want to become particular on how you play the lights coming out from your flash...its kinda copying/experimenting your whole style thats what exactly i want to do...i want to learn a lot from experienced photographer like you...you have the knowledge i need, you have the quality of works worth to copy...
@@rafaelerum6600 For me, the ratio and position of the cross light, rim light, or hair light, is very dependent on the situation. For example, what kind of coverage do I need (top to bottom, or across) and how does it look against the tone of the skin or color of the hair, etc. It's like most things with lighting, you can have a starting point, but it's rarely the final recipe. Like if you're making soup with different ingredients all the time, you have to add salt according to taste. With lighting, there are always "test shots" because you just never know it's good until it's good.
Ed Verosky, i got your point!...it's always a part of experimenting...i thought every expirienced photographer set everything as it is without repeating or adjusting the whole process...now i know re-adjustment is a must if ever the results is not acceptable...
Yes. And great questions! I made another video party based on our discussion and many similar questions I receive. Thanks 🙏🏽