I built my 4.0 for fuel mileage. It has a tune, upgraded pistons, and rings,balanced rods, new cylinder head with LS valves, and mopar performance spings, Harland sharp roller rockers, re-sized ford 300 injectors new fuel pump, aluminum fuel rail, bbk throttle body, mishimoto radiator, with an upgraded fan, Afe power header with magnaflow cats. I get about 19mpg highway on 31 inch tires and a 6 inch lift.
Those leafs being broken would definitely affect your ride! With that much rust, replacing those with the lift is highly recommended. I get 15mpg highway in my '98 on 35s. Just gotta keep the throttle bottle clean, air filter clean, and plugs/wires good. That 4.0 will run forever!
I have a collapsed lifter in 2 of my cylinders on my xj 4.0 and I get barely 10 mpg on 31’s with a 3inch lift. I’m just gonna run it till it blows cuz I got my dad’s 4.0 with 70,000 on it for my Jeep with gears and custom lift waiting for all the pieces for 35’s. hopefully when I get the other motor in there is gets better mpg
Steven, I believe that "Just Dex It" was able to prove that the low oil pressure at idle is primarily caused by worn camshaft bearings. Check out his resent RUclips videos. Be safe.
Shaking up front called death wobble need new bushings or replace the whole control arm lower and upper, do alinement. Those angel pcs under the rear springs you need them, you must point rear drive shaft to the pinion of the SYE minus 3-4 degrees less in angle as you hit the gas the entire differential rotates up wards so -3 -4 is perfect. Chech on line at Woods drive shafts will have videos as to the angle of drive shaft explained very well.
yes cleaning MAP IAC and throttle body does in fact improve air flow thus improving gas mileage/engine performance. Getting it over 3k RPM is not lol. I feel like I get 3+ mpg better when I’m not heavy on the skinny pedal. I can get anywhere between 15 and 17 mpg in my 99 on 32s with 4.10 gears and 302k on the dial.
Absolutely. Going easy on it is key. I have a 99 stock height. I find just about 40mph and a lil above gives me the best mileage. Seems to be the sweet spot.
1 it is a brick 2 its lifted 3 heavy large tires that is why they will get between 12 and 14 in town maybe 18 to 20 on hwy you dont buy these for gas milage
I appreciate this kind of real info. Anecdotal? Sure. But, my 2000 is getting what I thought was "terrible" mileage until I considered...I'm getting 10ish in city...short duration. stop and go. Once I take it on an actual straight line drive, I'm closer to 18. i am lifted, on bigger tires. Cam and stroke work. And, lucky.
Ive replaced multiple oil pressure sensors with oem 2 wire sensors, they dont read accurately at all, you need to run an aftermarket gauge to know what it reads, with hot oil on a new build it will drop down to 13psi coming off the highway to idle fyi
Cleaning the IAC and the throttlebody is part of your scheduled maintenance on those engines! Also, your drivers side rear leaf spring is broken! That would certainly cause a vibration in the rear...
That little rubber plug on your map sensor is like a buck. But they're really hard to find. And you don't want to have to find it when you need it. So I would recommend looking for it and then having an extra one laying around. Because they crack and break easily.
That shake you mentioned (and others might have mentioned it in earlier comments) might be what they call a 'death wobble'... if you look that up...they have several things that might help. It seems to be intermittent issue for older jeeps.
Late to the game. The claim of "I'm not a mechanic" is kinda weak. If you're going to own older vehicles, like an XJ, and experiment on it, you need to swim on your own or be ok with paying money that could be invested elsewhere. There are very few regular shops you can take these to who will have any idea of what to do with some of that stuff (Look at Rainman Ray's Repair where he had an XJ come to his shop - good dude, but obviously not a Jeep guy). Also, if you don't know what your driveline angle should be with a stock vs. SYE/driveshaft combo, there are oodles of resources out there. In a nutshell: parallel angles for transfer case/Diff output/input (same angles at both u-joints) vs. point the pinion at the T-case for an SYE (minimal rear u-joint deflection). JFC, bust some rust on that thing before there's nothing left...
Your comment about your bolt heads 'rounding'... I see a lot of Jeep RUclips videos where the person is not using metric tools. For many decades, all the bolts on Jeeps are METRIC, so if you are using Imperial sockets, you may be close, but they will not fit correctly and rounded bolt heads is the result.
I have a collapsed lifter in 2 of my cylinders on my xj 4.0 and I get barely 10 mpg on 31’s with a 3inch lift. I’m just gonna run it till it blows cuz I got my dad’s 4.0 with 70,000 on it for my Jeep with gears and custom lift waiting for all the pieces for 35’s. hopefully when I get the other motor in there is gets better mpg
Jeep shaking, lol That's called the "Jeep Death Wobble". To fix that replace your tie rod ends, cross bar rubber mounts and put heavy duty steering stabilizer. If you really want to Improve your gas mileage 4-5+mpg. Change your injectors to 4 hole, get a transgo shift kit for your transmission. And most importantly get rid of your mechanical fan and put in a dual electric fan( from junkyard ford Taurus) and get two 70amp relays(Audi/VW headlight relays) use the wire that went to your old electric fan to activate one that goes to the Hi on electric fans . Then run a wire from your ignition that goes to activate the Low speed on the fans. That way it makes it all automatic ( no switches)never worry about engine getting hot again... but before you do all that and most importantly is to get a transmission oil cooler(I used an old external oil cooler for a VW sandrail I had) Put that underneath your radiator. You will have to cut the metal line(passenger side) after the radiator that goes to transmission and get a screwdriver in there to flare out the lines a little to connect oil cooler hoses with some hose clamps. and get an trans oil temp gauge on it( there is a big Allen head plug on the side of transmission you take out to put the thermostat) no drilling into the pan like I have seen some idiots do because they never tried to look if it had a spot for one Trust me ive been through 3 transmissions before I figured that out. ( its not the transmissions fault as they are great... its Jeeps fault for connecting them to the radiator.) Its because jeeps run hot at about 195°F and the Toyota transmissions Max temp is about 170-180°F. That it burns up the transmission fluid prematurely and overheats them every time you drive it down the street. That they fail prematurely. if your in a colder climate it will help cool that line a little bit before it returns but if your towing anything ot it 100° degrees outside and don't have an oil cooler it will cook your transmission. Good luck I average 20-22mpg *personal best 28mpg entire tank on freeway non stop driving like a grandma and drafting behind semi trucks and neutral down the hills* I also ported and pollished my intake and exhaust slightly and put an intake manifold from a 99 on mine as well. That if i floor it, it will chirp second gear hard, it definitely beats my 2004 Acura TL off the line 0-70mph. after that the Acura will pass it But hey 70mph is the legal limit anyways
You sure the oil pressure is not just a poor connection. Mine reads 0 to 10 at idle, if I go flick the sending unit with my finger it will start reading around 38-40 and then fail after a few seconds dropping down to very low reading
You brought this to a shop and they didnt let you know your missing leafs and a shim on one side? How thats broken off will definitely cause issues possibly dangerous ones. Those shims are there for pinion angle and you do need those depending on what your drivetrain angle looks like.
Green/ red are contrasting colors . . . sort of. The reason you don't care for the colors is you have the wrong shade of green. Try a cheap color wheel and dial in that color.
Just to make sure, did you disconnect the negative battery terminal before performing work on the sensors? And then once you complete any work involving sensors, you disconnect both positive & negative, then make contact with both terminals for a minute to have the computer relearn the sensors? I just want to make sure I’ve got those steps down. I’ve also got an O2 sensor I need to replace.
Chrysler service manual for resetting ECM Disconnect Neg Battery Terminal, isolate from battery turn ignition switch to ON position, wait for 3 seconds turn headlights to ON position, wait 3 seconds Turn headlights to OFF position and return ignition key to OFF/Lock position touch neg battery terminal to pos terminal for 3-10 seconds turn headlights to ON position turn headlights to OFF position re-attach Neg battery terminal to battery neg post turn key to ON position, but do not start turn key to OFF position cycle key back to ON position cycle key back to OFF position Cycle Key back to ON position for 3rd iteration, watch CEL for any error codes, if no codes present check manual for flash sequence for end of code list cycle key off and back on start engine not sure why they make it such a dance to do this and this is from the Chrysler/Jeep Factory Service Manual for Daimler Chrysler vehicles 1990-2001 Jeep Cherokee XJ also I've seen dirtier throttle bodies, but that one certainly needed cleaned, cool project rig, a 2JZ in an XJ seems like a wild swap but i'll bet she runs good
I am old enough to be your Dad. Please do not drive 30 year old XJs or YJs like they are new. Slow down. And that may be why your economy is bad. Also, get a prius to daily and don't worry about the mileage of your trail rig. If you drive a lot it can be budget neutral.
first off, if you have ANY old vehicle that you bought used a complete tune up with sensor changes is necessary to see the vehicle run anywhere near right. most people will maintain the sh*t out of a new vehicle for a while but that peters out. if it has changed hands multiple times your a fool not to go through everything. second, when people talk about a lifted jeep getting bad gas mileage its not the lift kit, whatever that is, its the change in tire size. the taller the tire the worse milage usually. also, performance is affected because gear ratio is all calculated in along with tire size for the manufacturer to estimate gas mileage. unless gear is altered taller tires usually will make it slower on takeoff, may not even be noticeable. there are formulas for these and you can calculate what your mileage should be without even driving it. (closely, how you drive affects as well) this is how race teams figure tires and gear ratios for multiple tracks of different size to get optimal performance for that track. im no expert, mechanically inclined, used to race, and have been a machinist. long ago, i setup cam and gear machines and i apply what i know here to what im trying to understand there.
New Fan clutch wont hurt. If you have a misfire in #3 that may be Chrysler code for need new head. Throw som roller rockers and new pushrods while your at it
Jeep is crap. As a professional mechanic I refuse to even work on them./ Poor design. Poor handling. Poor 4 wheel drive capapbility but they are supposed to be known for their 4 wheel drive capability . Ha! Chrysler/Jeep sucks.
@johannjohann6523 You have got to be joking. Older jeeps are one of the easiest vehicles to work on. Also the 4.0 is one of the most reliable engines ever made and are simple to fix. Older Jeeps have always dominated off road because of their 4wd capabilities reliability and strong design. There are also many different versions of their 4wd system that were available in jeeps and were suited for different conditions. So not all jeeps are created equal. People see 4x4 jeep and think it can climb mountains and mud bog but thats not always the case. Typically only the higher trim models were designed for serious off road capabilities. I'll give you poor handling but nobody buys a jeep and expects good handling.
I built my 4.0 for fuel mileage. It has a tune, upgraded pistons, and rings,balanced rods, new cylinder head with LS valves, and mopar performance spings, Harland sharp roller rockers, re-sized ford 300 injectors new fuel pump, aluminum fuel rail, bbk throttle body, mishimoto radiator, with an upgraded fan, Afe power header with magnaflow cats. I get about 19mpg highway on 31 inch tires and a 6 inch lift.
Same, I built a 4.2l mini-stroker, factory head, factory cam, and electric fan conversion, I can get about 20 highway if I drive slow
@mercedescherokee6853 that's pretty schweet. I'm guessing 55-60 mph Is the sweet spot.
@@TheGrimFootyea about 65, my tires are a little bigger than factory so a little more speed puts it in a good rev range
@mercedescherokee6853 what's the mileage like?
@@BrettMods2.0 he done guarandamn told you 20 highway
Those leafs being broken would definitely affect your ride! With that much rust, replacing those with the lift is highly recommended.
I get 15mpg highway in my '98 on 35s. Just gotta keep the throttle bottle clean, air filter clean, and plugs/wires good. That 4.0 will run forever!
What tires are you running?
I have a collapsed lifter in 2 of my cylinders on my xj 4.0 and I get barely 10 mpg on 31’s with a 3inch lift. I’m just gonna run it till it blows cuz I got my dad’s 4.0 with 70,000 on it for my Jeep with gears and custom lift waiting for all the pieces for 35’s. hopefully when I get the other motor in there is gets better mpg
Just a tip. If you put the jeep in 4wd with the tires on the ground you wont have to use a pry bar to hold the front drive shaft from spinning.
*This is why your jeep gets BAD gas mileage*
“I have no idea if that even did anything”
Have another look at that rear spring. It’s not just the shim that’s broken, 2 of the springs are broken too!
Good call! I totally didn’t see that
@@stevennewellproductions that could be a dangerous situation!
Yep! I saw that, too. Time for new springs.
Use "mass airflow sensor cleaner" to clean the IAC. It's designed for non metallic parts. Carb cleaner is designed for metals.
Green on red looks awesome actually.
You've REALLY got 350,000 miles on that thing!? That's awesome! Mine's (same color) a 2000 with 147k and I'm hoping to get it past 300k! Great video!
Those shims should go in the rear. If you are vibrating in the rear, pinion angle is usually the culprit. Those shims will alter your pinion angle.
Steven, I believe that "Just Dex It" was able to prove that the low oil pressure at idle is primarily caused by worn camshaft bearings. Check out his resent RUclips videos. Be safe.
Shaking up front called death wobble need new bushings or replace the whole control arm lower and upper, do alinement. Those angel pcs under the rear springs you need them, you must point rear drive shaft to the pinion of the SYE minus 3-4 degrees less in angle as you hit the gas the entire differential rotates up wards so -3 -4 is perfect. Chech on line at Woods drive shafts will have videos as to the angle of drive shaft explained very well.
The 3.7 is the worst on gas
If you want to get better gas mileage try different injectors, like 4 hole.
When you start losing oil pressure it could be worn out rod, main, and cam bearings.
As a temporary patch, you can run a thicker oil.
What would be the next step up in oil thickness from 10w30? 5w30?
@@wyattserviss992, It would be thicker, say 10w40, then 20w50. There are other thicknesses in between but the most used are the two I listed.
yes cleaning MAP IAC and throttle body does in fact improve air flow thus improving gas mileage/engine performance. Getting it over 3k RPM is not lol. I feel like I get 3+ mpg better when I’m not heavy on the skinny pedal. I can get anywhere between 15 and 17 mpg in my 99 on 32s with 4.10 gears and 302k on the dial.
Absolutely. Going easy on it is key. I have a 99 stock height. I find just about 40mph and a lil above gives me the best mileage. Seems to be the sweet spot.
1 it is a brick 2 its lifted 3 heavy large tires that is why they will get between 12 and 14 in town maybe 18 to 20 on hwy you dont buy these for gas milage
I wish mine got that good of gas milage
I appreciate this kind of real info. Anecdotal? Sure. But, my 2000 is getting what I thought was "terrible" mileage until I considered...I'm getting 10ish in city...short duration. stop and go. Once I take it on an actual straight line drive, I'm closer to 18. i am lifted, on bigger tires. Cam and stroke work. And, lucky.
I cringed hard when you cranked down those throttle body bolts into the aluminum manifold
Ive replaced multiple oil pressure sensors with oem 2 wire sensors, they dont read accurately at all, you need to run an aftermarket gauge to know what it reads, with hot oil on a new build it will drop down to 13psi coming off the highway to idle fyi
Cleaning the IAC and the throttlebody is part of your scheduled maintenance on those engines! Also, your drivers side rear leaf spring is broken! That would certainly cause a vibration in the rear...
That little rubber plug on your map sensor is like a buck. But they're really hard to find. And you don't want to have to find it when you need it. So I would recommend looking for it and then having an extra one laying around.
Because they crack and break easily.
Timed the 0-60 for you. About 16 seconds.💨💨💨💨💨💨
😂
That shake you mentioned (and others might have mentioned it in earlier comments) might be what they call a 'death wobble'... if you look that up...they have several things that might help. It seems to be intermittent issue for older jeeps.
Late to the game. The claim of "I'm not a mechanic" is kinda weak. If you're going to own older vehicles, like an XJ, and experiment on it, you need to swim on your own or be ok with paying money that could be invested elsewhere. There are very few regular shops you can take these to who will have any idea of what to do with some of that stuff (Look at Rainman Ray's Repair where he had an XJ come to his shop - good dude, but obviously not a Jeep guy). Also, if you don't know what your driveline angle should be with a stock vs. SYE/driveshaft combo, there are oodles of resources out there. In a nutshell: parallel angles for transfer case/Diff output/input (same angles at both u-joints) vs. point the pinion at the T-case for an SYE (minimal rear u-joint deflection). JFC, bust some rust on that thing before there's nothing left...
o2 sensor? Definitely affects mpg's.
Check your slip yoke on your front drive shaft and see if there is play when you push it towards the floorboards.
I am in the process of buying one of these vehicles and you mentioned a forum for them. Could you please share the link to the related forum? Thanks.
Xj Jeeps on Facebook
Your jeep sounded pretty good on the test drive. Mine sounds like the in side of a Humvee.
Your comment about your bolt heads 'rounding'... I see a lot of Jeep RUclips videos where the person is not using metric tools. For many decades, all the bolts on Jeeps are METRIC, so if you are using Imperial sockets, you may be close, but they will not fit correctly and rounded bolt heads is the result.
0-60 in my XJ? It’s been 17k since I started daily driving my Jeep jeep. Not once has it occurred to me to do such a thing! 🤣
A fellow Masshole and fellow XJ owner. 🙂
🤝
Same 💪. South Coast. And my XJ also gets dismal mpg. 💀☘️🍻
I have a collapsed lifter in 2 of my cylinders on my xj 4.0 and I get barely 10 mpg on 31’s with a 3inch lift. I’m just gonna run it till it blows cuz I got my dad’s 4.0 with 70,000 on it for my Jeep with gears and custom lift waiting for all the pieces for 35’s. hopefully when I get the other motor in there is gets better mpg
Actually looks hot with those tires. 😎
Jeep shaking, lol That's called the "Jeep Death Wobble". To fix that replace your tie rod ends, cross bar rubber mounts and put heavy duty steering stabilizer.
If you really want to Improve your gas mileage 4-5+mpg. Change your injectors to 4 hole, get a transgo shift kit for your transmission. And most importantly get rid of your mechanical fan and put in a dual electric fan( from junkyard ford Taurus) and get two 70amp relays(Audi/VW headlight relays) use the wire that went to your old electric fan to activate one that goes to the Hi on electric fans . Then run a wire from your ignition that goes to activate the Low speed on the fans. That way it makes it all automatic ( no switches)never worry about engine getting hot again... but before you do all that and most importantly is to get a transmission oil cooler(I used an old external oil cooler for a VW sandrail I had) Put that underneath your radiator. You will have to cut the metal line(passenger side) after the radiator that goes to transmission and get a screwdriver in there to flare out the lines a little to connect oil cooler hoses with some hose clamps. and get an trans oil temp gauge on it( there is a big Allen head plug on the side of transmission you take out to put the thermostat) no drilling into the pan like I have seen some idiots do because they never tried to look if it had a spot for one
Trust me ive been through 3 transmissions before I figured that out. ( its not the transmissions fault as they are great... its Jeeps fault for connecting them to the radiator.) Its because jeeps run hot at about 195°F and the Toyota transmissions Max temp is about 170-180°F. That it burns up the transmission fluid prematurely and overheats them every time you drive it down the street. That they fail prematurely. if your in a colder climate it will help cool that line a little bit before it returns but if your towing anything ot it 100° degrees outside and don't have an oil cooler it will cook your transmission.
Good luck
I average 20-22mpg
*personal best 28mpg entire tank on freeway non stop driving like a grandma and drafting behind semi trucks and neutral down the hills*
I also ported and pollished my intake and exhaust slightly and put an intake manifold from a 99 on mine as well. That if i floor it, it will chirp second gear hard, it definitely beats my 2004 Acura TL off the line 0-70mph. after that the Acura will pass it But hey 70mph is the legal limit anyways
You sure the oil pressure is not just a poor connection. Mine reads 0 to 10 at idle, if I go flick the sending unit with my finger it will start reading around 38-40 and then fail after a few seconds dropping down to very low reading
You brought this to a shop and they didnt let you know your missing leafs and a shim on one side? How thats broken off will definitely cause issues possibly dangerous ones. Those shims are there for pinion angle and you do need those depending on what your drivetrain angle looks like.
What can I do my cherokee xj is 2wd but I added 4.5 inch lift and 33’s what could I do
Green/ red are contrasting colors . . . sort of. The reason you don't care for the colors is you have the wrong shade of green. Try a cheap color wheel and dial in that color.
What’s the whole wheel size set up? Rim size, tire etc
15x-10 Mickey Thompson wheels. 33x12.50 iron man all country
I’ve been looking at UltraGauge OBD2/OBDII.
What do you think?
hey! where did you get those jeep cheorkee sport seat covers? those are sweet!
They came with the 2JZ XJ when I bought it
That red jeep must be the older version, Renix? My 95 didn't come with a green valve cover and the newer jeeps have the exhaust on the Dr side! 😂
Just to make sure, did you disconnect the negative battery terminal before performing work on the sensors? And then once you complete any work involving sensors, you disconnect both positive & negative, then make contact with both terminals for a minute to have the computer relearn the sensors? I just want to make sure I’ve got those steps down. I’ve also got an O2 sensor I need to replace.
Where can I find parts for a 1995 jeep cherokee
You also have 2 broken bottom spring leaves on the driver's side!!!
413 XJ's unite!
You have to jeeps in you video I also own two one white on 94 grand Cherokee and a black sport I love both trucks hey let's bring back the jeeps
Chrysler service manual for resetting ECM
Disconnect Neg Battery Terminal, isolate from battery
turn ignition switch to ON position, wait for 3 seconds
turn headlights to ON position, wait 3 seconds
Turn headlights to OFF position and return ignition key to OFF/Lock position
touch neg battery terminal to pos terminal for 3-10 seconds
turn headlights to ON position
turn headlights to OFF position
re-attach Neg battery terminal to battery neg post
turn key to ON position, but do not start
turn key to OFF position
cycle key back to ON position
cycle key back to OFF position
Cycle Key back to ON position for 3rd iteration, watch CEL for any error codes, if no codes present check manual for flash sequence for end of code list
cycle key off and back on
start engine
not sure why they make it such a dance to do this and this is from the Chrysler/Jeep Factory Service Manual for Daimler Chrysler vehicles 1990-2001 Jeep Cherokee XJ
also I've seen dirtier throttle bodies, but that one certainly needed cleaned, cool project rig, a 2JZ in an XJ seems like a wild swap but i'll bet she runs good
I am old enough to be your Dad. Please do not drive 30 year old XJs or YJs like they are new. Slow down. And that may be why your economy is bad. Also, get a prius to daily and don't worry about the mileage of your trail rig. If you drive a lot it can be budget neutral.
Seem like it didn't want to shift into 4th
Keep it off for two years and then check back with us and see how your transfer case is working😂
Clickbait. All I learned is you wasted my time.
first off, if you have ANY old vehicle that you bought used a complete tune up with sensor changes is necessary to see the vehicle run anywhere near right. most people will maintain the sh*t out of a new vehicle for a while but that peters out. if it has changed hands multiple times your a fool not to go through everything.
second, when people talk about a lifted jeep getting bad gas mileage its not the lift kit, whatever that is, its the change in tire size. the taller the tire the worse milage usually. also, performance is affected because gear ratio is all calculated in along with tire size for the manufacturer to estimate gas mileage. unless gear is altered taller tires usually will make it slower on takeoff, may not even be noticeable.
there are formulas for these and you can calculate what your mileage should be without even driving it. (closely, how you drive affects as well) this is how race teams figure tires and gear ratios for multiple tracks of different size to get optimal performance for that track.
im no expert, mechanically inclined, used to race, and have been a machinist. long ago, i setup cam and gear machines and i apply what i know here to what im trying to understand there.
New Fan clutch wont hurt. If you have a misfire in #3 that may be Chrysler code for need new head. Throw som roller rockers and new pushrods while your at it
Watching the cleaning part was relaxing 😌
lol, no, its because I have Dana 44s, 37s an RTT and a shit ton of armor ha ha ha ha ha
Thank you for teaching me. I had no clue definitely learned a lot in just watching this video. You do incredible Job keep it up
Thanks mom. What did you learn???
Don't look up what tool you need. Look up how to use the tools you have.
Triolling with two broken leaves? You serious?
Those bolts are 10mm!
5/16 six point worked better
My zj has 300239 miles and it gets piss poor mileage. It's got a v8 ..eerrr
Because 11/16 is wrong… they are 5/16s
Unnecessary click bait title.
Not clickbait at all…. 😂🤷♂️
A dirty throttle body would be the reason you get poor gas milage…
@@stevennewellproductions You made an unproven assumption without before and after measurements of gas mileage.
It's metric
Jeep is crap. As a professional mechanic I refuse to even work on them./ Poor design. Poor handling. Poor 4 wheel drive capapbility but they are supposed to be known for their 4 wheel drive capability . Ha! Chrysler/Jeep sucks.
@johannjohann6523 You have got to be joking. Older jeeps are one of the easiest vehicles to work on. Also the 4.0 is one of the most reliable engines ever made and are simple to fix. Older Jeeps have always dominated off road because of their 4wd capabilities reliability and strong design. There are also many different versions of their 4wd system that were available in jeeps and were suited for different conditions. So not all jeeps are created equal. People see 4x4 jeep and think it can climb mountains and mud bog but thats not always the case. Typically only the higher trim models were designed for serious off road capabilities. I'll give you poor handling but nobody buys a jeep and expects good handling.
Johan... You're not a pro mechanic, you don't know crap about Jeeps and you would be the last person on earth to ever work on my anything.
If. You. Want. Better. Milles. Yes. Pud. The. Right. Tires. The. Comen. With. The. Jeep. The. Sure. On. The. Driver. Side. Door. If. You. Have. The. Money. To. Spend. On. Yes. Gave. Full. Tuneup. The. Say. Jeeps. From. 1996. To. 2004. The. Comen. With. Good. Motors. The. Straight. 6. 4.0. And. The. V8. 4.7. I like. To. No. Can. Reliable. You. Drive. You. Jeep. Everyday. And. Mosley. Problems. Can. Fix. Upgrade. Old. Jeep. Can. Be. $$$$