Hi mate, If you want the input voltage on the regulator to be 18V you need to connect the batteries in series as in your wiring diagram. The way you appear to have connected the battery boxes in the video looks to be in parallel which will only give you 9V.
It doesn’t matter it steps down to 5 V which is needed vs 18. I don’t need it to be 18v can be anything from 5-100v as long as it steps to 5. I did two batteries for longevity not voltage if that makes sense.
@@weldingjunkie Yes I understand what the regulator does and that it can accept a range of input voltages(usually around 5-30V, give or take), and I understand your logic that wiring them in parallel will give you a higher capacity but my understanding of the reason others tend to use the batteries in series to give 18V is that the regulators usually give a more accurate output at higher input voltages so will give a more consistent 5V for a longer period before it starts to drop off. I've not tested it side by side to confirm for definite, I just connected mine in series, (out of interest I will have to test how the output of the regulator responds to dropping voltage inputs when I have some spare time). I'm not trying to say what you've done is wrong, just wanted to highlight the difference between the diagram and the wiring in case it was just an oversight or maybe confused future watchers. 👍
@@WhitneyStephenGater I know, I didn’t take it offensive or you trying to correct me. I was just trying to articulate in this instance that it doesn’t matter for this project. The reason being is 9 V or 18 for these boxes there a set with an adjuster/Potentiometer screw and even the ones that don’t from what I’ve tested have been around 5.24 V to start which by the time it depreciates it’ll be time to change them anyway I’ve done different builds in the past and having it like this has lasted over a year and longer for what it’s used for. Most people try to hide this information so that they can sell theirs and I was the main reason why I was trying to get it out
To run transducers for in cylinder diag, intake or exhaust. You can use it for fuel etc it’s made to be attached to a scope. You can also use it to supply 5v to a harness that’s missing 5v to send it to scan tool to check wire integrity
Good video
Ima attempt to make one
Hi mate,
If you want the input voltage on the regulator to be 18V you need to connect the batteries in series as in your wiring diagram. The way you appear to have connected the battery boxes in the video looks to be in parallel which will only give you 9V.
It doesn’t matter it steps down to 5 V which is needed vs 18. I don’t need it to be 18v can be anything from 5-100v as long as it steps to 5. I did two batteries for longevity not voltage if that makes sense.
@@weldingjunkie Yes I understand what the regulator does and that it can accept a range of input voltages(usually around 5-30V, give or take), and I understand your logic that wiring them in parallel will give you a higher capacity but my understanding of the reason others tend to use the batteries in series to give 18V is that the regulators usually give a more accurate output at higher input voltages so will give a more consistent 5V for a longer period before it starts to drop off. I've not tested it side by side to confirm for definite, I just connected mine in series, (out of interest I will have to test how the output of the regulator responds to dropping voltage inputs when I have some spare time).
I'm not trying to say what you've done is wrong, just wanted to highlight the difference between the diagram and the wiring in case it was just an oversight or maybe confused future watchers. 👍
@@WhitneyStephenGater I know, I didn’t take it offensive or you trying to correct me. I was just trying to articulate in this instance that it doesn’t matter for this project. The reason being is 9 V or 18 for these boxes there a set with an adjuster/Potentiometer screw and even the ones that don’t from what I’ve tested have been around 5.24 V to start which by the time it depreciates it’ll be time to change them anyway I’ve done different builds in the past and having it like this has lasted over a year and longer for what it’s used for. Most people try to hide this information so that they can sell theirs and I was the main reason why I was trying to get it out
@@weldingjunkie Thanks for the video, you just answered my question as to why there are two 9volts.
What is the use of this ref box? Is it for calibration purposes? Cheers.
To run transducers for in cylinder diag, intake or exhaust. You can use it for fuel etc it’s made to be attached to a scope. You can also use it to supply 5v to a harness that’s missing 5v to send it to scan tool to check wire integrity
Good to know, thank you.
Where do u buy the 3 wire connector wire for the ats pressure transducer for example without buying it from ats lol its $100 from them
Where did you get plastics project box at and what are the dimensions?
eBay or Amazon you can use any size you want 4x3x1.6 is what I use
Thanks