At last, someone makes the effort to show that it is actually a simple fix when it comes to the dreaded ECU failure on the GTAs. Good work. Subscribed. 👍
Yes exactly, I'm hoping making some of these videos will help others. Its also a great car to work on, once you have a few tools and some simple knowledge its actually not hard to do a lot of work on it yourself!
I removed the pre-cats and replaced them with a set of ceramic coated wizard decatted manifolds that apart from dramatically reducing under bonnet temps also give a 19hp increase but what I suggest that when parking if it's practical (like in the garage) leave the bonnet up until it cools, that's what most people do as the heat quickly dissipates, great tutorial will come in handy if mine ever goes, so far i"ve been lucky. fingers crossed
Yes good suggestion, I've been thinking about redoing the exhaust system anyway. But the reality is that the position is going to cause problems no matter what you do. In the next episode I'm making a heat shield but even that is just to prolong the inevitable. Best thing to do is to relocate the ECU and I'm looking into whether I could make it into a kit that people can just buy
great idea. I also have the same problem. Currently the ecu is being repaired by ecutesting in England. If you provide the wiring to extend the echo sounder, it will be the buyer. angelomail74@libero.it
@@angelopas209 I'll at least upload videos about it to make it easier for everyone. Let me know how it goes with ECU Testing, I was going to send mine to them as well
@@angelopas209 they wouldn't reply to me about this probably because they want me to buy their replacement ECU haha. Let me know if you have better luck
So it also applies to 156 2.5 V6 CF3 and 166 with any CF3 V6, GTV, and any other model that had mounted after 2002 this V6, they're the same as GTA, 4 catalityc converters. Till now I had only failure of ABS ECU, same reason welded/glued connection got broke. I hope my engine ECU will survive till I install some non cat manifolds.
I'm starting to wonder if my toasted ECU a few years back actually had this problem. I ended up with a used replacement which is still working today (touch wood). Maybe the unit should be relocated or heat shielded at least. Great video. Thanks.
I believe most of them failed due to this issue. If you still have your old one I would hold onto it as it may be able to be repaired. I made a small heatshield for the ECU after this (video is on RUclips as well) which I think helps a little bit with the temperatures especially after the car is turned off. Most of the heat comes from the catalytic converters and engine after the engine is turned off.
Thanks a lot for the video!! I love the GTA’s but I haven’t got very deep knowledge about them. Do you know if the problem is related to the exhaust removal, or it was a “natural death” of the capacitor maybe caused by the high temp under the bonnet?
Not related to exhaust at all, just a natural and slow death from capacitor due to throttle circuitry. Some people in Japan have played around with extra grounds I believe to try and stop this from happening but there's no evidence I can see this actually helps
I have a 147 1.6 ts and my battery keeps dying over night I’ve looked on some forums and people are saying the body computer could it be something else ?
Not sure haven't had that issue occur before. Body computer is a fairly easy replacement right? Might be best to borrow another one and try. This type of issue it's just a process of elimination. Something else you can do is to try and find where the power draw is coming from using a tool that detects power through cables.
Good question I should have said something in the video. I just used high temp RTV gasket maker which is basically silicone sealant. In theory any silicon waterproof sealant will work fine. Cheers!
@@LueysGarage Thanks! I just has the same issue on my 156GTA 2 days ago. Will open up the ECU to take a look. BTW, I think it's good to advise everyone to disconnect the battery for 5 mins before attempting to remove the connector from the ECU.
@@maxbg Best of luck and hopefully my video will help you out. Yes good point about disconnecting the battery, its always a good idea when working with delicate electronics on your car!
@@maxbg you need to make sure the capacitor is making contact with the PCB properly, I suggest you test the connection using a multimeter before sealing it up and trying it.
@@LueysGarage grazie mille per la risposta. E necessario cambiare solo quella unita? oppure altri componenti? il mio problema lo da sempre alla farfalla motore.
@@perritusco3326 If its the throttle then I would start with that capacitor, its directly related to the function of the throttle. It certainly seems to be the most common issue and should fix the problem
At last, someone makes the effort to show that it is actually a simple fix when it comes to the dreaded ECU failure on the GTAs. Good work. Subscribed. 👍
Thank you so much... After 4 years my Alfa is running again thanks to u 🤘
Happy to hear!!!! I really like helping others and sharing the knowledge 😊
Great information indeed!!! I will show to my boy friend, he keeps telling me the ECU is easy to die. Thank you for your sharing.
Great video, not much content out there for the GTA and a lot of myths and bullshit. So many ECUs have been binned because of this simple issue!!
Yes exactly, I'm hoping making some of these videos will help others. Its also a great car to work on, once you have a few tools and some simple knowledge its actually not hard to do a lot of work on it yourself!
Glad that you were able to repair the ECU, thank you for sharing this video
I removed the pre-cats and replaced them with a set of ceramic coated wizard decatted manifolds that apart from dramatically reducing under bonnet temps also give a 19hp increase but what I suggest that when parking if it's practical (like in the garage) leave the bonnet up until it cools, that's what most people do as the heat quickly dissipates, great tutorial will come in handy if mine ever goes, so far i"ve been lucky. fingers crossed
Yes good suggestion, I've been thinking about redoing the exhaust system anyway. But the reality is that the position is going to cause problems no matter what you do. In the next episode I'm making a heat shield but even that is just to prolong the inevitable. Best thing to do is to relocate the ECU and I'm looking into whether I could make it into a kit that people can just buy
great idea. I also have the same problem. Currently the ecu is being repaired by ecutesting in England. If you provide the wiring to extend the echo sounder, it will be the buyer. angelomail74@libero.it
@@angelopas209 I'll at least upload videos about it to make it easier for everyone. Let me know how it goes with ECU Testing, I was going to send mine to them as well
I sent emails to Autolusso, they probably have cable extensions for the ecu for sale
@@angelopas209 they wouldn't reply to me about this probably because they want me to buy their replacement ECU haha. Let me know if you have better luck
So it also applies to 156 2.5 V6 CF3 and 166 with any CF3 V6, GTV, and any other model that had mounted after 2002 this V6, they're the same as GTA, 4 catalityc converters.
Till now I had only failure of ABS ECU, same reason welded/glued connection got broke.
I hope my engine ECU will survive till I install some non cat manifolds.
Yes it applies to quite a few different Busso engine cars. Hopefully owners of those cars will find this video as well!
I'm starting to wonder if my toasted ECU a few years back actually had this problem. I ended up with a used replacement which is still working today (touch wood). Maybe the unit should be relocated or heat shielded at least. Great video. Thanks.
I believe most of them failed due to this issue. If you still have your old one I would hold onto it as it may be able to be repaired. I made a small heatshield for the ECU after this (video is on RUclips as well) which I think helps a little bit with the temperatures especially after the car is turned off. Most of the heat comes from the catalytic converters and engine after the engine is turned off.
@@LueysGarage I'm trying to think where the old one is! It had an Autodelta remap too.
Thanks Thanks Thanks Thanks Thanks for this video!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I ordered also the one with the black dot but the capacitor is smaller then the one is installed in the ecu
That's strange it should be the same size, the ones I ordered were the same size as the original. Double check the spec is as expected!
Thanks a lot for the video!! I love the GTA’s but I haven’t got very deep knowledge about them. Do you know if the problem is related to the exhaust removal, or it was a “natural death” of the capacitor maybe caused by the high temp under the bonnet?
Not related to exhaust at all, just a natural and slow death from capacitor due to throttle circuitry. Some people in Japan have played around with extra grounds I believe to try and stop this from happening but there's no evidence I can see this actually helps
Car Project Central thanks for the extra info!
I did, its great 👍
Hi, i have this issue, is there any website that has this ECU for sale?
Unfortunately no, ask in the Facebook groups for the GTA cars. There's usually someone with some limited stock
I have a 147 1.6 ts and my battery keeps dying over night I’ve looked on some forums and people are saying the body computer could it be something else ?
Not sure haven't had that issue occur before. Body computer is a fairly easy replacement right? Might be best to borrow another one and try. This type of issue it's just a process of elimination. Something else you can do is to try and find where the power draw is coming from using a tool that detects power through cables.
Car Project Central ok thank I shall try and give that ago
Hi. I noticed that you need to cut open the casing to access the board. What do you use to re-seal the casing back?
Good question I should have said something in the video. I just used high temp RTV gasket maker which is basically silicone sealant. In theory any silicon waterproof sealant will work fine. Cheers!
@@LueysGarage Thanks! I just has the same issue on my 156GTA 2 days ago. Will open up the ECU to take a look. BTW, I think it's good to advise everyone to disconnect the battery for 5 mins before attempting to remove the connector from the ECU.
@@maxbg Best of luck and hopefully my video will help you out. Yes good point about disconnecting the battery, its always a good idea when working with delicate electronics on your car!
The capacitor was indeed dislodged when I open up the ECU. We tried to re solder the capacitor back but the car now has immobiliser failure.
@@maxbg you need to make sure the capacitor is making contact with the PCB properly, I suggest you test the connection using a multimeter before sealing it up and trying it.
ciao come si chiama il pezzo da cambiare? ho lo stesso problema e vorrei rispolvere come ai fatto tu grazie
Its this yellow capacitor. I'm sure you can find a similar one locally nz.rs-online.com/web/p/tantalum-capacitors/5382874/
@@LueysGarage grazie mille per la risposta. E necessario cambiare solo quella unita? oppure altri componenti? il mio problema lo da sempre alla farfalla motore.
@@perritusco3326 If its the throttle then I would start with that capacitor, its directly related to the function of the throttle. It certainly seems to be the most common issue and should fix the problem
@@LueysGarage grazie, provo ad ordinarlo e cambiarlo. 👍🤞