You are a compendium of useful Mopar information. Thanks for what you do. I fixed a wierd Dakota R/T electrical issue that my friends mechanic could not figure out by watching your videos.
I’ll be doing this finally this winter. I swapped my 360 magnum into my 79 Ramcharger in 2011 after doing a NV4500 swap in 2008. It’s been carbed and runs well but it’s time for efi.
A couple people commented that you are having problems! I got a quick look at your latest project update video and it looked like it was up and running, but didn’t have time to get very far into it before my live. If there’s anything I can help with, you can always email me at jamienoise@gmail.com.
great video you helped me out in a big way I got a 1990 Dakota v6 auto 2wd and i have a 2000 ram 5.2 magnum motor ecu and harness i want to swap in and I'm not sure what wiring I need to do so I'm glad I found your videos
Jamie, this is great content. I had to figure all of this out on my own when I did mine, so I'm sure this will help tons of people. I want to share a few notes / experiences: 1. Fuel pressure regulator. I used a filter / regulator for a 2002 Cherokee. It runs at 52 psi, which is supposed to be too much for my OBD1 setup's needs, but it runs perfect in my setup. Would be totally fine for an OBD2 swap with its higher pressure spec. 2. Speed sensor. I have also run thousands of miles without one. From day 1 my car was popping through the exhaust a bit on deceleration. The car sounded like a douchemobile on deceleration, and I couldn't figure out why. It has the Hughes SER0814ALN-14 cam and long tube headers, so I thought maybe it's breathing better than the PCM expects it should. Then I added the speed sensor from a 93 Dakota to control OD and lockup on my 46rh (I was using switches for that previously). The Dakota VSS has the output for my mechanical speedo, and is only 2 wire: one to ground, the other to the PCM. Super easy. The minute I added the VSS the car stopped popping through the exhaust on deceleration. I later learned that the PCM tells the IAC to open up a bit on deceleration, which prevents the popping. 3. ASD relay. I didn't put in an ASD relay. I think I just wired that circuit through the ignition switch. Your video helped me realize that's a problem I should fix ASAP!
Awesome! Bypassing the ASD definitely could work, but it throws a code and I feel like there are good reasons to have it there. Good to know on speed sensor! I know it does *something*. Haha. Good to know the Cherokee used a filter regulator. I had no idea. I tried using the GM filter regulator in my first swap. It didn’t work right… then I found out the one I had tried didn’t actually have a regulator? Something weird like that.
Great video, Jamie! Thanks so much for taking the time to do this. I'm sure it will be a huge hit! Your content is the best your right up there with UTG!
I figured this out about eight years ago using a 5.2 from a 96 jeep grand cherokee. I wired it up and could get it to start, but it would die within a couple of seconds. I finally decided to pull the body control module and wire in the data link wires, and it fired right up.
Oh it’s still here. Haha. In fact I feel like it snuck into the back of a couple shots in this one. I just dropped some dough on brake parts yesterday, and the previous owner scored me a brand new heater control valve off eBay! So cool. I plan to put some more time in on it soon.
Thank you sir. This is your best video ever. I have been curious about doing such a swap for years now but always get so frustrated with all the conflicting data there is out there and all the misinformation guys push in some of these forums and groups. On a side note I found one of the battery sensors on a 2002 Dakota I parted out a few years back. I was like WTF is this for. LOL In my case the Dakota still would start and run after I unplugged so I was really confused why it was there.
Thank you! It’s what the people have wanted for a long time! Haha. Very good to know it would start without it. I had read that some applications won’t, so I’ve always just installed them, but I really don’t know. Haven’t tried without on any myself.
It’s really nice of you to explain all this. Great info to have. You were asking what the vss signal is used for. Cruise control and freeze frame data. Keep up the good work. 👍👍👍
Been wanting to go roller cam 360, for several years in my' 80 Powerwagon. Motor is very tired, along with the NP435. My dilemma is, quick refresh of factory block, and gamble on a RV cam, or go through the hassle of converting to a Magnum. Clubcab long box with a 4" lift and 35's. Middle of swapping over to Dana 60 axles with 4.10 ratio. Definitely not a race truck, but this video was much needed, and appreciated. Watched hundreds of swap videos, this one was extremely informative.
Tough call for sure. I just had the same question on my ‘74 club cab - gamble on budget 318 rebuild, or magnum swap. I went with the 318… we’ll see how that works out. Awesome! Glad to help.
Great explanation, make it sound easy! Sleeperdude been having doozy of a time swapping 98 durango setup into his restored 71 Dodge mini restoration. Had pc flashed without security still shutdown on him. Couldn't take it on his trip, bought a gm wagon instead. Reach out, he could use a smart guy like you for some input. Thanks for sharing!
@@Scott_Newmaster yeah, was ironic he needed a power steering bracket to clear small under space hood in the rv, he pulled it off a van in a salvage yard which had the entire setup he needed including the pcm! should watch the series...
@@Scott_Newmaster it probably would’ve made a better donor for wiring and PCM, but the only physical difference making it a better fit is that PS bracket which he already sourced. I can tell you from experience that the truck bracket works if you are willing to beat the firewall / floor transition area with a hammer. I am 😅
Funny, when I first did a couple of these swaps I thought it was simple, reliable, and made good sense. Now I’ve dipped my toes further into the “modern” EFI converted world… and I think the same way you do. Haha.
Turning in to Dead Dodge Garage makes me realize that I am a practical person. With an if/then obvious octopus ruling- if it could possibly be remedial, then it isn't immediately relevant - MOVING ONWARD! 😂
Really glad to have found your video's. I'm planning on doing something a bit different. rather than swapping a newer magnum into an older vehicle, I'm actually planning to Upgrade a Wrangler JKU to a 5.9 Magnum. Just discussed this project Idea with the wife today and she is in agreement. so I'll be needing this information for sure. Already got the doner, 2001 Ram 1500 4x4. I even have a complete trans rebuild kit (since that is what parked the truck in the first place) but we've decided we'd like a more roomy vehicle and since we love Jeeps and pretty much all things Chrysler decided to find an insurance salvage JKU and transplant the power train over from the Much better magnum stuff. and the v8 swap will help with pulling power etc.. anyway awesome information and thanks for the facebook group tip.
Very interesting idea. Would love to see that happen! It won’t be as fast or as efficient as the 3.6, but it will make torque and should be reliable as long as the swap is well engineered.
I have been wanting to Magnum swap a car for the last 15 years!!! My biggest issues were transmission and wiring: either cutting the floor for an 42/46RH/E and/or nothing super easy or cost effective for an 833/OD and then the rat's nest of extra wiring, internet folks saying how easy it is, but leaving out some key pointers (some folks, not all folks - it was mostly me...I'll admit it). But here comes Dead Dodge Garage to answer ALL my questions and address my fears! My 833OD is already swapped and coming up with a 318LA flywheel to modify for the tone ring/flex plate is also secured. I have a 94 5.2 out of a van and a 94 5.9 out of a truck. Yes, they're OBD1....so, my question, is this a MAJOR drawback or, because I already have all the stuff, should I just use what I have? Thanks Jamie!!!
@@Chevy-f4l oh uhhhh I totally space cadet’d that. There are now links to several other good diagrams, I will find the link for the one I used in the video ASAP.
That was a really well thought out video. Nice job!!!! Now, I look forward to the day when you are doing a new I6 Hurricane engine into, well, something.... ;)
@@DeadDodgeGarage Hahahahaha.... I am pretty impressed with the I6 Turbo'd package. It'll be like when the 3rd gen Hemi first came out. Everyone was waiting for wrecks in the boneyard to do swaps.. I am not only impressed with it's power, but the fairly small real estate it takes.
I've never done one of these, but I have done 5-6 Fox Mustang 5.0 H.O. EFI swaps into various cars. It's interesting how similar most of the information is; OBD-2 is obviously more complex than the OBD-1 systems I'm used to, but not that much more. Like the Magnum swap, the H.O. has maybe five wires total under the dash to make everything work, and the harness is pretty much stand-alone. Now I'm daydreaming about this green '70 Scamp I know of for sale.
Yep! I meant to make a note that this is really, really similar to other EFI systems. I’ve never wired the 5.0, but I kinda know what makes it tick. That’s a good one.
I have an old Mopar Action magazine where Richard Ehrenberg had Magnum swapped a '62 Plymouth. He used a harness from Mopar Performance. I wonder if those p/n's are still valid? Probably not.
interesting note on the battery temp sensor. I've ran a 1997 and a 2001 donor motor and harness and never had a batter temp sensor. I'll note that if I have issues in the future.
Found this video just in time. I have a '92 dakota with the 5.2 magnum and the obd1 pcm has finally died. Those computer modules are next to impossible to find. Very few available from parts pullers and none with any kind of return available. No aftermarket support either. Shipping outside US almost doubles the price. So, correct me if I'm wrong. I can change to a later obdII pcm if I use the wiring harness that goes with module. My transmission is the 46RH so I dont need any transmission hookups. As far as I can tell none of the other vehicle functions are integrated with the pcm. It appears that the ideal unit would be from a '96 Ram pickup, as those still had the hydraulic shifted transmission.
Yes. Exactly that. It’s a pretty easy conversion to make, and with ‘96 (and I think ‘97?) the engine connectors are still the same. Any newer and you’ll have to change the intake, crank sensor, and distributor - and you’ll have a bunch of transmission codes.
Hey Jamie, I have a couple questions about doing one of these swaps. Around the time you drove through on your trip to Tony’s (5/25) my town got hit by a tornado late that night. First time ever for a direct hit here and it really messed things up big time; the same storm jumped over to Arkansas within an hour or so and tore the area near Ed’s machine shop who Joe always uses too by the way…definitely a scary experience! It picked up a 383 off of my porch which is around 3 feet high and set the motor about 6 feet away on the ground! It didn’t roll it over or tear the covering off-sat it down in the exact same upright position…unreal🤦🏻♂️! Well, one of the big trees came down on top of my 97’ Dodge Ram 4x4 crushing the extended cab in the process. That just made the 5.9 a perfect candidate to put into my 76’ B200 shorty van😁. 🤷🏻♂️gotta look at the bright side right? So, my question is this.. are there any issues using the transmission from a 4x4 like mine? Since my truck is a 97’ itself (when a lot of changes seemed to be happening), is there anything that I should look for to identify whether mine was before or after the changes? This will be my first actual magnum swap into a classic. My van was needing the wiring harness redone anyway so this should be tons of fun 😅. Hopefully when I get it all lined out-Tim from (318-will run)will be freed up enough for a visitor….ya know in the spirit of your crusade…maybe I could line it up against his black van😁that would be cool. Any suggestions you have on the switch out would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance brother.
Wow. Well that’s unfortunate, but I like where this is going. Haha. On the transmission, that’s a bit of an issue. The 4x4 transmission has a transfer case adapter that is not easily removed or swapped for a standard tail housing. It requires a replacement output shaft as well as the housing, and complete disassembly to change it. I believe for ‘97 that will be an electronically controlled 46RE. That wouldn’t be the end of the world since you already have the computer and wiring to control it. The way to tell them apart is by the electrical connector. Rearward of the shifter and kickdown linkage connections on the driver side, you will find an electrical plug pointing straight up. It will either be an oval plug with three wires, or a round plug with 10 or so wires. The latter is found on the RE computer controlled transmission. Armed with that information, you can start shopping for a RWD transmission that matches your donor, and your swap could be that much easier. If using an RE, what you really want is the 97-98 version of that transmission, because it still has an old school speedometer drive that you will need if you want your van’s speedo to work. Anyway, hopefully that helps. You may well have seen it already but I’ve got a whole playlist on other Magnum stuff that I’m sure will come in handy for this operation. Good luck.
1998 Ram 3500 Van. How are the differences from the can and the truck? I just got a van and I’m sure this video will make the job much easier to understand. Just looking for a bit more incite from an expert…
The way the harness is built is very, very different, so for swapping purposes I don’t like them as donors. Functionally, it’s all the same stuff. Engines, computers, sensors, etc.
Great video, very helpful. when I was pulling my donor out of a 01 1500 I noticed a device on the rear of the block that looks a lot like a crank sensor running off of the flywheel of the donor engine. What is that devise, I am hoping it is for the trans input. second question: I plan on putting this in a 77 dually plow truck with a 4 speed, any experience with installing this magnum 5.9 in a standard trans? and last but not least I can not find the diagrams you stated would be linked to the video.
I put links to a couple diagrams in the description but I couldn’t find the one I really wanted. Yes, that is a crank sensor. You need that, and you need something for it to read. Yes, I have put a magnum in front of a stick trans, but in a car. With the truck transmission, I think you can use a factory Ram truck flywheel. You will want to verify that yourself, as I have never done it. Whatever you end up doing, you’ll need to cut a hole in your bellhousing for the crank sensor to live in. I did a video series called The Three Pedal solution where I cover a lot of what you will need to do - but again, there will be differences in your case.
good day again, I have done some research that you might be able to help with. I don't have the spare parts lying around to test this. The magnum standard flywheel has the spots machined into it for the crank sensor. It typically comes with a 12 inch clutch. The 77 trans and truck comes with a 11 inch clutch but has a different size and spine to the trans, so I would have to use the 77s / 11 inch clutch to fit the trans. so will the 11 inch clutch bolt to the 01s 12 inch flywheel, I think the pressure plate might be big enough but I don't have parts here to try this. now lets assume they don't match, can a normal drill, drill a flywheel to except the 11 inch clutch. I don't have the means to turn the flywheel down like you did. I also wonder if that larger flywheel fit inside the bell housing. Do you have a normal email address we can communicate through for more questions?@@DeadDodgeGarage
Ok, this is an interesting point I chose not to take the time to cover in the video for some reason. Ok, that reason may be that I had totally forgotten. Anyway, my stick shift Charger with Magnum 5.9 would stall when it went into fuel cut and coasted to a stop. It just wouldn’t recover when you clutched in. If you blipped the throttle once while you were slowing down, it would come out of it and not stall. Weirdly, our van with an almost identical drivetrain does not do that. I believe the van has a ‘96 stick computer and the Charger has an auto computer. I was pretty sure this was related to not having a VSS. So it’s not 100%, but some computers will do that without a VSS reading - apparently.
@@DeadDodgeGarage Thanks for taking the time to clarify. Thinking about this swap and ditching the fitech in my cj7 so just trying to get it all figured out.
@@DeadDodgeGarage my ram van has a pink wire a white with blue stripe and a red wire and a red with white stripe for the Trans relay I have the 46re just a thought
Like I said, all of the important wiring you’ll need to add is the same. Hell the color codes on the wires are usually the same even… ‘93 being the last year of the old body style, I don’t really know what your donor wiring is going to look like - but given that you’re building an ‘89, I’d probably just take all of it and swap it over. That may be your easiest course. But I did the same basic thing on my van - I removed all of the TBI stuff, added a later truck harness (OBD2, again) and just used the wires from the original TBI engine that I needed.
Good morning sr I have a question how to wireing a cluster of 87 dodge ram charger if I use a 99 dodge ram 1500 for donor vehicle I just want to work the oil pressure and temperature tanks for you time and the videos is helping me to do my project
Use your original oil pressure switch and wiring and leave the newer switch out, or use a pipe tee and mount both. And for the coolant temp you can either use a tee to fit both, or drill and tap a second 1/8 pipe threaded hole to fit the original sensor in the front of intake near the thermostat. A ‘92-97 intake would have had two sensor holes, so there is a flat spot on the newer intake where it could be drilled.
Good video Jamie, I've a question, I have a 1990 D150 318/A518 running an driving truck I'm fixing up. I'm wanting to move to a Magnum 5.9 and is why I'm here. At first I was thinking just changing the engine and put all the 318 stuff on the 5.9 but after watching this video and seeing just how simple it is I'm now thinking also going with a 46RE since the PCM controls it and just swap the entire unit and get the harness and PCM at the same time. Now, my question is, since I don't have any donor parts yet and can be selective with what I buy what years do I need to be looking for? Watching this leaves me to think that maybe a 2001 and up but I don't know how far or is there are any other differences. I see the Rams on MarketPlace all the time being parted out, I just need to know what would be best to watch for. Thanks for the info and I'll be watching some more of your videos, good stuff. DC
You want about a ‘98-01 1500 for your donor, or that can go up to 2002 in a 2500 or 3500. That would give you the RE transmission, as well as the compatible PCM, and the easiest wiring to adapt. Having a ‘90, you also have a fuel tank with a pump in it already, and the TBI wiring system in place that adapts to the Magnum system really, really easily. You will have to change the pump to a higher pressure, but that’s not a big deal at all.
@@DeadDodgeGarageThanks, that helps. Are these PCMs flashable/programable like the GM 411s? I'm thinking a few mods while I'm at it and will likely needd a little teaking afterwards.
Great video! A lot of information covered. I have an issue with a ‘99/5.9 wiring. I’ve lost speedometer/power windows/and blower motor power. Lost power to the starter at the same time. I wired the starter up to push button start for now until I can figure out what it could be. Any advice as to what is bad?
Sounds like you lost an accessory feed. This could be a blown accessory feed fuse or an ignition switch failure - among other possibilities. I have had to replace multiple ignition switches in these trucks for various reasons, so I am tempted to point toward that - but the starter thing doesn’t really make sense there.
Info on mopar crate swaps is pretty thin- I found a bit but it’s all over the place. Most crate motors seem to be of the 360 magnum variant- Most confusing has been sorting external to internal balance flywheels, and wiring.
@@rh752 have you seen my 318 to 360 swap guide from two Sundays ago? I cover the balance difference, the mount difference, and other various details you’ll need to watch out for.
Thanks for the videos you make. They have been a great help lately,but I have came a cross with a question; is it possible to wire a speedometer on a 1987 dodge ram charger that I swapped from 1999 dodge ram 1500 two wheel drive automatic transmission to the 1987 ram.
The problem with the ‘99 transmission is that it lacks the speedo drive that an early 90s electronic speed sensor / adapter can be plugged into. So while I’m sure there is some way to make this happen, I couldn’t begin to fathom what it is.
Just found your channel and I appreciate all the great info. Curious what route you’d take to get a rot box challenger to run on the cheap. The original 318/3spd is a complete boat anchor.
Boat anchor, as in seized solid? Personally I would fix up another small block then. Nice and easy. The Magnum is always an option too. I’m leaning away from the complexity of fuel injection these days.
Hey Jamie, just watched the video and Im swapping a 97 ram 360 into a 91 ram. My questions are about the notching of the bell housing because I’m using the stock 91 trans and also the kick down rod. What is the best ways to achieve this. And yes I’m keeping the 97 efi. Thanks for the awesome video!
I’ve made the notch with a cutoff or grinder wheel. Not too big a deal, but it helps to have the later transmission to measure for reference. You won’t be able to use the kickdown rod. The throttle body is turned 180 degrees and uses a long throttle cable and kickdown cable to reach it. You can easily adapt the kickdown cable to work on your ‘91 transmission.
I don’t use the original fuse box at all. If you are using Durango type wiring, you would basically have to. I just add individual fuses and relays. Simple.
I learned about SleeperDude in the comments! Then he dropped into the comments himself. Something tells me I’m a long, long ways away from him - but I’d totally be down for that.
Wow. I was thinking about a Magnum swap for my 67 Charger - it is an original 318 car. I was wondering if you gave up on the 44 or 46RE transmission? Did you have to wire in an overdrive lockout? I was wondering how hard the shift linkage conversion would be since my Charger has a console shift. Thanks for all the info.
Shift linkage lines right up, kind of. In my car, instead of modifying the floor or crossmember, I moved the drivetrain forward and notched the transmission. So I made an extended lower link, and a custom bracket to brace the bottom of the console linkage. And believe me when I say, it worked *very* well - but the transmission was bad when I got it, and I knew that. Eventually, second gear left the building. So that was a problem. If you check out my series “The Three Pedal Solution,” I discuss all of this in the first episode or two, and show everything that I did to make it work - as I’m ripping it all out… if I had used an actually good transmission, I might still have the damn car. It was so nice to cruise. You do not have to have an overdrive cancel button unless you want to. It will shift into OD, and drop out for kicking down and passing or going up hills. Usually you’d only need the button to turn OD off for towing, and of course my Charger wasn’t doing any towing. But it’s not too hard to add if you want it.
I have a 2000 5.9 but it has the fuze box you said was in that red 98? Is that right or is it messed up? One of the wireing harnesses isnt connected to anything and i think its the transmission wireing.
Is there an easy way, HP Tuners maybe, to disable the PCM from throwing codes for all of the stuff you don’t need on a typical swap like the TCM, various solenoids, gauges, etc?
The short answer is, I’m fairly sure it can be done with the OBD2 computers, but I don’t really know. The great thing is that the computer soldiers on without those things and doesn’t really seem to care. And there’s no working engine light anyway so… 😅
Good afternoon, I'm a new subscriber and I really appreciate your videos. Though I have one question. I have a 1995 Dodge Ram 1500 with a 5.9 and I want to place it into a 1988 Ramcharger that has a 5.2 , would it be possible to remove the 1995 PCM and power distribution and place it into the 1988 Ramcharger? Is it compatible? Thanks!
I’m not sure that the power distribution box would be an easy swap over. I’ve never done that. But it’s pretty straightforward to use the PCM and engine harness and adapt them to the truck. I did essentially exactly that in our 1992 Dodge van, except I used 1998 wiring. And then of course you’ll need the later fuel pump in the tank.
Man such GREAT info in this video 👌. I do have a quick question though. Would the engine harness and pcm be the same between the same year (say 99) 5.9 gas between a 1500 and 2500? I'm about to swap a 5.2 or 5.9 into my 98 v6 5 speed ram and I'd really like the donor to have manual trans wiring so I don't have to deal with the auto junk. It's much easier to find a manual 3/4 ton than a half ton in my bone yards. Thanks for the awesome info!
I like the video a lot I plan on swapping my 85 dodge d150 cleaning the engine bay up and going through original harness to trim what I don’t need. Does anybody know if it’ll still run if it doesn’t detect a transmission I plan on using a a904 automatic transmission
What did you do as far as motor mounts? Im swapping a 5.9 magnum with the nv3500 in my 78 w200 in a few weeks looks like you just built custom plates but hard to see in the videos
This is awesome, ive been looking for a write up on how to do this, I run magnum 360 in my derby trucks, been looking into making a "one wire" setup. ( like an LS ) .is there a way to get your write ups here ?
Is there a way to do this swap on a obd2 cherokee jeep inline 6?? My 318 blew yesterday.. My jeep needs a new harness badly.. i have a 97 jeep cherokee inline 6 4.0.. 99 donor harness cherokee but.. ahh skim key.. so swapped computer and im missing something.. Wonder if you have a vid on a jeep.. i know it should run really easy.. i dont need anything extra just run.. Thx
I don’t think the skim key would be a problem yet in ‘99, but I’m pretty sure those harnesses are different? I don’t know nearly enough about the 4.0 Jeep harnesses, PCMs, etc. I just know that they are functionally pretty similar to Magnums.
I have a question. Are these 97 and older PCM’s VIN programmed or too old for that? I have found a 5.9 with the wiring for $50 but it doesn’t appear to have the PCM.
You said something about the pcm not being happy if you don’t have the 46RE hooked up? I have a nv4500 in my truck already, is there something I need to do if I’m using an automatic harness?
Just changing the PCM or having it reprogrammed would do it. You’ll have a bunch of transmission codes. Not a real issue - but it may behave oddly in some situations, like slowing down coming to a stop.
Yes. Good luck figuring out which ones they are though. You’ll need a truck harness diagram, or a whole bunch of time tracing it all down. And there are so many more wires there than you could ever use. What a headache. I’m guessing you are the person who commented the same thing elsewhere, and I answered there as well. In my view, it’s way too much work to adapt that box, when it contains way more circuits than could possibly be necessary in a classic swap, and it’s big and ugly. There are much better options available.
Hey Jamie quick question sir?? the magnum 318 v8 mpfi will it only crank but not start if the map sensor is not wired up,,i am asking because the ground squirrel chewed it off completely?!
@@DeadDodgeGarage well accurate to the engine diagram schematic for the 00-01 dodge ram and Dakota non California emissions vehicles the wires are green with a red tracer, black with a blue tracer and purple with a white tracer, and knowing some of what I do know about Chrysler EFI the purple with the white tracer is I believe the trigger wire that leads to the crank sensor so if that's the case I'm guessing that is why it doesn't start Jamie sir, but I asked you because I would about bet you know way more than me about Chrysler and Mopars period.
What if I'm going the other way like putting a 1998 cab on to a 1986 frame using the 1986 engine /using the 1998 wiring/ and have a A6 style box that I can use?
Not insanely difficult. You just need to use a couple power feeds out of the factory fuse / relay box to run the engine. I’ve never done this, but there is definitely more than enough wiring there to make it happen.
Im going to swap a 99 durango 5.9 into a 99 jeep xj. I want to keep as many factory amenities as possible. They have so many of the same options though. Id hate to lose them by swapping to a truck harness?? Or wiring it like its going in a classic car! Any input?
I don’t know about about computer pinout and sensor connector differences between the 4.0 and Magnum setups. In a 3.9 V6 truck, you can add the extra injector connectors, swap the PCM and you’re good to go. You’re not going to have the same luck coming from a 4.0… but it really isn’t all that different. There is a way to do this that results in a sanitary swap. But I can’t tell you every little connection you’re going to have to make to accomplish that. It will involve partially de-pinning both PCM harnesses, stripping both engine compartment harnesses, swapping things around, re-wrapping…
Do you think i can just use the durango harness that already had everything integrated (same as the 4.0) and just wire the jeep headlights etc into the durango harness/computer,
@@codyduncan1760 Yes, you absolutely can do that. People have done the same thing for classics, simply adapting the headlight wires and such to connectors that fit their lights. Just a good bit of work to get all of that stuff routed, trimmed, and up and running.
I want to 318 swap a 1988 comanche. Im getting a 1998 durango for the donor, whats the best harness for the swap its a 1988 jeep renix, would a ZJ harness work better than a ram ?
The Durango harness is very similar and would probably work fine. The problem with either option is the hard wired dash section. You’re going to have to cut almost all of that out and adapt the rest if you want to use the fuse and relay box. You’ll have to change headlight connectors and lots and lots of other things to make it work. This is why I prefer to just use the engine harness - and why the Ram is the best donor.
i put a 2002 360 in my 1994 ram 1500 used the 1994 computer the injectors were different rather than change them i bought on ebay EV-1 to EV-6 injector adapters just plug on injector and the 1994 wires plug on the adapter been on there 8 years no problems
Nice! I’ve heard of those adapters. I have run into one issue swapping between injectors though - different injector dead time can lead to weird runability issue. I don’t know the different dead times between the different injectors, I just know I swapped in a set that really messed up how a 318 Ram ran earlier this year. Throwing a 360 computer on it fixed it, but we changed to different injectors instead.
I'm wanting to swap the 4.7 that's in my 02 dakota that's 2wd automatic I've got a 98 1500 ram with a 5.9 automatic 4x4 I've been told the the 98 ram ecm will not control the transmission that's in my 02 dakota would you happen to know if that's true or not thank you
No. I don’t think it’s at all possible to make that 545RFE work behind the 5.2/5.9. I could be wrong… but the control systems are definitely different.
Doesn’t matter, and… it depends. Those transmissions are always blown up and don’t fit well. But I had one in my ‘66 Charger briefly, and it really cruised great on the highway. But then it blew up.
@DeadDodgeGarage Thanks, Jamie. I'm completely fine running a 904 or 727 with highway gears. What speed sensor could be used in those transmissions, or is it worth worrying about?
P0207 and P0208 are injector circuit codes for cylinders 7 and 8. This isn’t like a V6 to V8 swap or something, is it? Haha. I would inspect the wiring for those injectors. If nothing is found, I would resistance test those injectors and compare what you find to one of the others. You could have two bad injectors, but that would be odd. I have no idea what cold air that was. Looked cheap.
@@DeadDodgeGarage no it is not a v6 to v8 swap I have been struggling to get this thing back on the road and these are the last 2 codes I need to get cleared and I have changed out the cylinder 7 injector and it did nothing and cylinder 8 I’m changing today thank you for the help I will check the wiring tonight
I put a 99 dodge 2500 5.9 Magnum into a 1985 Toyota pickup. I can get it to run and have moved it by jumping the fuel pump relay. Should I just follow your recommendation and cut the harness and just wire what I need?
They’re awesome! The anemic horsepower rating (by today’s standards) doesn’t really tell the true story of these engines. They’re torquey, tire frying bastards that just about can’t be killed.
In a word, yes. When I said “it will work, but the computer will be mad about the missing transmission stuff,” this is precisely what I was referring to. I’ve done it with success, but had a bunch of transmission codes. Down the line, you can always swap to a stick computer. All of the basic wiring stuff is exactly the same, so no modifications will be necessary there.
Hey I’ve recently put a 97 ram 2500 5.9 magnum in my 99 dakota rt I’ve swapped all my accessories from old motor oil pan oil feeding tube etc but its giving me no bus 900 codes could you possibly help
No bus indicates communication error on CCD bus between the PCM and gauge cluster. Did you swap the PCM? The ‘97 PCM does not support CCD. If not that, there could possibly be another electrical issue taking down the PCM. I’ll assume you used the intake and all sensors off of the original engine? Fairly sure the plugs are all different on the ‘97 engine.
@@DeadDodgeGarage well quick update it fired up this morning runs strong just no gauge functions but the first time i did try to fire it up they did work so im sure I’ll figure it out thanks for your help brother
reaching out to ask if anyone has installed the whole engine and trans into a very early dodge truck(1977)? I am interested in having the overdrive in this truck. And how about the the transfer case? my truck is 4 wheel drive.
The later transfer case is a problem because they flipped the front driveshaft output. The rest is no problem at all. I am doing exactly this in a 75 - and there will be video at some point in the future.
Yes. They bolt together fine. To use the fuel injection you need to use the flex plate from the 99, oval out one flex plate bolt hole, and cut a hole in the bell housing for the crank sensor.
Keep your odb II 96' up PCM . Because your trans is shifted by that p.o.s. PCM . Where my 93' Dakota and 95' Jeep Grand Cherokee trans are hydraulically shifted.
Did I not discuss that in this video? I don't think the RE came until '97 or '98 but can't remember the exact timeframe. Anyway, yes, if you want to use the RE transmission, you need the correct PCM. Most people swapping these into things won't use the newer transmission.
@@DeadDodgeGarage that PCM came out with dashes that have a digital mileage readout. Those came out in 96' not 97' . The point is, they aren't any better than a 95' and down PCM.
Yes it matters what way you hook up the trigger wires on the relay as a relay will make spike fly voltage. That being said most automotive relays have a diode in them to stop the fly voltage spike! 85 is ground…. 86 is positive…. If you are using a relay that doesn’t have a way to stop fly voltage you need to get one that does as the fly voltage can damage a computer and other electronic equipment.
You can. I find fitting that big ugly box under the hood of a classic goes against my taste, and removing all of the donor truck’s wiring that is unused and then routing new circuits to it is much more work than adding two or three relays and fuses separately. But that is definitely an option.
By completely ignoring it because it doesn’t matter. Lol. Before the advent of chip key security, the VIN is programmed but it doesn’t really mean much for our purposes. The important part is which engine it’s programmed for. I have swapped these back and forth in swapped vehicles with no issue. It could potentially be an issue for communication between various modules (gauges, body, ABS, etc.) in some factory applications. But obviously that’s not what we’re doing here.
@DeadDodgeGarage I have a gen 1 Dakota and am looking to put in an OBD 2 harness in it. It currently doesn't have any of its electrical harnesses. This seems way easier than going back with the stock system. Also easier with the tunability.
Something is goofed. As long as that’s 5.9 Magnum in place of 5.2 Magnum and they are similar years (or you swapped the intake and all sensors,) everything is the same and it should run fine.
Thank you!! Wiring videos for old Skool, magnums, and Gen III’s are like gold
You are a compendium of useful Mopar information. Thanks for what you do. I fixed a wierd Dakota R/T electrical issue that my friends mechanic could not figure out by watching your videos.
Outstanding! Happy to help. Thanks.
I’ll be doing this finally this winter. I swapped my 360 magnum into my 79 Ramcharger in 2011 after doing a NV4500 swap in 2008. It’s been carbed and runs well but it’s time for efi.
Thanks for the video. Looks like I picked the wrong donor car. Still haven’t figured my problem out yet
A couple people commented that you are having problems! I got a quick look at your latest project update video and it looked like it was up and running, but didn’t have time to get very far into it before my live. If there’s anything I can help with, you can always email me at jamienoise@gmail.com.
@@DeadDodgeGarage i also left a comment for him as well, pointing out some stuff since i was a tech in a dealer for 25 years.
Nice. Surprisingly easy. I swapped a 5.2 in to my 1992 2.5 Wrangler. Worked awesome.
great video you helped me out in a big way I got a 1990 Dakota v6 auto 2wd and i have a 2000 ram 5.2 magnum motor ecu and harness i want to swap in and I'm not sure what wiring I need to do so I'm glad I found your videos
Same here 99 ram 5.2 91 dakota 3.9 5 speed swap..
Plus jeep 4.0.. great vid
Jamie, this is great content. I had to figure all of this out on my own when I did mine, so I'm sure this will help tons of people. I want to share a few notes / experiences:
1. Fuel pressure regulator. I used a filter / regulator for a 2002 Cherokee. It runs at 52 psi, which is supposed to be too much for my OBD1 setup's needs, but it runs perfect in my setup. Would be totally fine for an OBD2 swap with its higher pressure spec.
2. Speed sensor. I have also run thousands of miles without one. From day 1 my car was popping through the exhaust a bit on deceleration. The car sounded like a douchemobile on deceleration, and I couldn't figure out why. It has the Hughes SER0814ALN-14 cam and long tube headers, so I thought maybe it's breathing better than the PCM expects it should. Then I added the speed sensor from a 93 Dakota to control OD and lockup on my 46rh (I was using switches for that previously). The Dakota VSS has the output for my mechanical speedo, and is only 2 wire: one to ground, the other to the PCM. Super easy. The minute I added the VSS the car stopped popping through the exhaust on deceleration. I later learned that the PCM tells the IAC to open up a bit on deceleration, which prevents the popping.
3. ASD relay. I didn't put in an ASD relay. I think I just wired that circuit through the ignition switch. Your video helped me realize that's a problem I should fix ASAP!
Awesome! Bypassing the ASD definitely could work, but it throws a code and I feel like there are good reasons to have it there. Good to know on speed sensor! I know it does *something*. Haha. Good to know the Cherokee used a filter regulator. I had no idea. I tried using the GM filter regulator in my first swap. It didn’t work right… then I found out the one I had tried didn’t actually have a regulator? Something weird like that.
I need to try this. my swap also backfires on decel and I have no VSS. thanks for the info.
Great video, Jamie! Thanks so much for taking the time to do this. I'm sure it will be a huge hit! Your content is the best your right up there with UTG!
Thanks Blake!
UTG is right up there with Jamie. :)
@@BlindBatG34 😅
I figured this out about eight years ago using a 5.2 from a 96 jeep grand cherokee. I wired it up and could get it to start, but it would die within a couple of seconds. I finally decided to pull the body control module and wire in the data link wires, and it fired right up.
Just found a 1971 Coronet 4 door with a bad 318... But I found a 1999 Ram 360 Magnum. So glad I found this. Cause this is clearly the hard part.
I’m so spoiled sippin beer n watchin DDG 3 days in a row and a live tonight -we be special
Hey where’s the Chrysler 300 ?
Oh it’s still here. Haha. In fact I feel like it snuck into the back of a couple shots in this one. I just dropped some dough on brake parts yesterday, and the previous owner scored me a brand new heater control valve off eBay! So cool. I plan to put some more time in on it soon.
Thank you sir. This is your best video ever. I have been curious about doing such a swap for years now but always get so frustrated with all the conflicting data there is out there and all the misinformation guys push in some of these forums and groups. On a side note I found one of the battery sensors on a 2002 Dakota I parted out a few years back. I was like WTF is this for. LOL In my case the Dakota still would start and run after I unplugged so I was really confused why it was there.
Thank you! It’s what the people have wanted for a long time! Haha. Very good to know it would start without it. I had read that some applications won’t, so I’ve always just installed them, but I really don’t know. Haven’t tried without on any myself.
It’s really nice of you to explain all this. Great info to have. You were asking what the vss signal is used for. Cruise control and freeze frame data. Keep up the good work. 👍👍👍
Duh. Lol. I wasn’t thinking about cruise control, obviously. Freeze frame makes sense too. Thanks!
Been wanting to go roller cam 360, for several years in my' 80 Powerwagon. Motor is very tired, along with the NP435. My dilemma is, quick refresh of factory block, and gamble on a RV cam, or go through the hassle of converting to a Magnum. Clubcab long box with a 4" lift and 35's. Middle of swapping over to Dana 60 axles with 4.10 ratio. Definitely not a race truck, but this video was much needed, and appreciated. Watched hundreds of swap videos, this one was extremely informative.
Tough call for sure. I just had the same question on my ‘74 club cab - gamble on budget 318 rebuild, or magnum swap. I went with the 318… we’ll see how that works out. Awesome! Glad to help.
Great explanation, make it sound easy! Sleeperdude been having doozy of a time swapping 98 durango setup into his restored 71 Dodge mini restoration. Had pc flashed without security still shutdown on him. Couldn't take it on his trip, bought a gm wagon instead. Reach out, he could use a smart guy like you for some input. Thanks for sharing!
Dang, that sucks. He should just go grab a Ram computer! It’ll fix everything!
If he would go find a B van the conversion would be just about a direct crossover including the heater/AC system..........
@@Scott_Newmaster yeah, was ironic he needed a power steering bracket to clear small under space hood in the rv, he pulled it off a van in a salvage yard which had the entire setup he needed including the pcm! should watch the series...
@@Scott_Newmaster it probably would’ve made a better donor for wiring and PCM, but the only physical difference making it a better fit is that PS bracket which he already sourced. I can tell you from experience that the truck bracket works if you are willing to beat the firewall / floor transition area with a hammer. I am 😅
I used a harness from a jeep grand cherokee that would run but shut down. I had to pull the bcm and wire up power and data link wires to make it run.
How to make a simple reliable vehicle over complicated and unreliable. Good information 👍
Funny, when I first did a couple of these swaps I thought it was simple, reliable, and made good sense. Now I’ve dipped my toes further into the “modern” EFI converted world… and I think the same way you do. Haha.
Fantastic video. I'm so grateful for the information.
Turning in to Dead Dodge Garage makes me realize that I am a practical person. With an if/then obvious octopus ruling- if it could possibly be remedial, then it isn't immediately relevant - MOVING ONWARD! 😂
I’ve been confused before, but I’m really quite confused right now 😅
Thanks for the tutorial. I’ve been wanting to do this to my 65 barracuda.
You are now my hero.
Really glad to have found your video's. I'm planning on doing something a bit different. rather than swapping a newer magnum into an older vehicle, I'm actually planning to Upgrade a Wrangler JKU to a 5.9 Magnum. Just discussed this project Idea with the wife today and she is in agreement. so I'll be needing this information for sure. Already got the doner, 2001 Ram 1500 4x4. I even have a complete trans rebuild kit (since that is what parked the truck in the first place) but we've decided we'd like a more roomy vehicle and since we love Jeeps and pretty much all things Chrysler decided to find an insurance salvage JKU and transplant the power train over from the Much better magnum stuff. and the v8 swap will help with pulling power etc.. anyway awesome information and thanks for the facebook group tip.
Very interesting idea. Would love to see that happen! It won’t be as fast or as efficient as the 3.6, but it will make torque and should be reliable as long as the swap is well engineered.
I have been wanting to Magnum swap a car for the last 15 years!!! My biggest issues were transmission and wiring: either cutting the floor for an 42/46RH/E and/or nothing super easy or cost effective for an 833/OD and then the rat's nest of extra wiring, internet folks saying how easy it is, but leaving out some key pointers (some folks, not all folks - it was mostly me...I'll admit it).
But here comes Dead Dodge Garage to answer ALL my questions and address my fears! My 833OD is already swapped and coming up with a 318LA flywheel to modify for the tone ring/flex plate is also secured. I have a 94 5.2 out of a van and a 94 5.9 out of a truck. Yes, they're OBD1....so, my question, is this a MAJOR drawback or, because I already have all the stuff, should I just use what I have? Thanks Jamie!!!
Not a major drawback. Obd1 works fine. Get after it!
I have watched this over multiple times. appreciated info!
Oh awesome. Happy to help!
Ya much appreciated bossman! I watch at least one of your vids a day and find myself backtracking for mental notes often.
does this truck use its factory drive shaft and trans?@@DeadDodgeGarage
Great video, Jamie. I have all the information I need for a swap now.
Now I just need a donor truck and something to swap it into.😅
Just little things 🤣
@@DeadDodgeGarage where did you put the link at for the wiring diagram??
@@Chevy-f4l oh uhhhh I totally space cadet’d that. There are now links to several other good diagrams, I will find the link for the one I used in the video ASAP.
@@DeadDodgeGarage thanks I was just wanting to look thanks though
I hope sleeper dude watches this video . he is having all kinds of problems .
I was thinking about him too!
@@Laura_6262what’s the name of the video you guys are talking about?
That was a really well thought out video. Nice job!!!! Now, I look forward to the day when you are doing a new I6 Hurricane engine into, well, something.... ;)
If they send me one, you won’t have to ask twice 😅
@@DeadDodgeGarage Hahahahaha.... I am pretty impressed with the I6 Turbo'd package. It'll be like when the 3rd gen Hemi first came out. Everyone was waiting for wrecks in the boneyard to do swaps.. I am not only impressed with it's power, but the fairly small real estate it takes.
Very useful video.. great free Mopar knowledge thanks 👍
I've never done one of these, but I have done 5-6 Fox Mustang 5.0 H.O. EFI swaps into various cars. It's interesting how similar most of the information is; OBD-2 is obviously more complex than the OBD-1 systems I'm used to, but not that much more. Like the Magnum swap, the H.O. has maybe five wires total under the dash to make everything work, and the harness is pretty much stand-alone. Now I'm daydreaming about this green '70 Scamp I know of for sale.
Yep! I meant to make a note that this is really, really similar to other EFI systems. I’ve never wired the 5.0, but I kinda know what makes it tick. That’s a good one.
I have an old Mopar Action magazine where Richard Ehrenberg had Magnum swapped a '62 Plymouth. He used a harness from Mopar Performance. I wonder if those p/n's are still valid? Probably not.
I have to doubt it. That would make life easy though.
Relishing the details on what to look for, thanks!
This good information. I have been plotting something like this for the future.
Always Comes Back To Nutz N Buttz
Does it? 😅
interesting note on the battery temp sensor. I've ran a 1997 and a 2001 donor motor and harness and never had a batter temp sensor. I'll note that if I have issues in the future.
Interesting! I read that it was necessary years ago, and have just always installed it. Have never tried running without.
Found this video just in time. I have a '92 dakota with the 5.2 magnum and the obd1 pcm has finally died. Those computer modules are next to impossible to find. Very few available from parts pullers and none with any kind of return available. No aftermarket support either. Shipping outside US almost doubles the price.
So, correct me if I'm wrong. I can change to a later obdII pcm if I use the wiring harness that goes with module. My transmission is the 46RH so I dont need any transmission hookups. As far as I can tell none of the other vehicle functions are integrated with the pcm. It appears that the ideal unit would be from a '96 Ram pickup, as those still had the hydraulic shifted transmission.
Yes. Exactly that. It’s a pretty easy conversion to make, and with ‘96 (and I think ‘97?) the engine connectors are still the same. Any newer and you’ll have to change the intake, crank sensor, and distributor - and you’ll have a bunch of transmission codes.
Hey Jamie, I have a couple questions about doing one of these swaps. Around the time you drove through on your trip to Tony’s (5/25) my town got hit by a tornado late that night. First time ever for a direct hit here and it really messed things up big time; the same storm jumped over to Arkansas within an hour or so and tore the area near Ed’s machine shop who Joe always uses too by the way…definitely a scary experience! It picked up a 383 off of my porch which is around 3 feet high and set the motor about 6 feet away on the ground! It didn’t roll it over or tear the covering off-sat it down in the exact same upright position…unreal🤦🏻♂️!
Well, one of the big trees came down on top of my 97’ Dodge Ram 4x4 crushing the extended cab in the process. That just made the 5.9 a perfect candidate to put into my 76’ B200 shorty van😁. 🤷🏻♂️gotta look at the bright side right?
So, my question is this.. are there any issues using the transmission from a 4x4 like mine? Since my truck is a 97’ itself (when a lot of changes seemed to be happening), is there anything that I should look for to identify whether mine was before or after the changes?
This will be my first actual magnum swap into a classic. My van was needing the wiring harness redone anyway so this should be tons of fun 😅.
Hopefully when I get it all lined out-Tim from (318-will run)will be freed up enough for a visitor….ya know in the spirit of your crusade…maybe I could line it up against his black van😁that would be cool.
Any suggestions you have on the switch out would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance brother.
Wow. Well that’s unfortunate, but I like where this is going. Haha. On the transmission, that’s a bit of an issue. The 4x4 transmission has a transfer case adapter that is not easily removed or swapped for a standard tail housing. It requires a replacement output shaft as well as the housing, and complete disassembly to change it.
I believe for ‘97 that will be an electronically controlled 46RE. That wouldn’t be the end of the world since you already have the computer and wiring to control it. The way to tell them apart is by the electrical connector. Rearward of the shifter and kickdown linkage connections on the driver side, you will find an electrical plug pointing straight up. It will either be an oval plug with three wires, or a round plug with 10 or so wires. The latter is found on the RE computer controlled transmission. Armed with that information, you can start shopping for a RWD transmission that matches your donor, and your swap could be that much easier.
If using an RE, what you really want is the 97-98 version of that transmission, because it still has an old school speedometer drive that you will need if you want your van’s speedo to work.
Anyway, hopefully that helps. You may well have seen it already but I’ve got a whole playlist on other Magnum stuff that I’m sure will come in handy for this operation. Good luck.
@@DeadDodgeGarage Awesome, thank you Jamie-this information will help me greatly & I really appreciate it brother! 😊
Pre odb2 magnums munch computers. You're really understating it
Much…worse?
1998 Ram 3500 Van. How are the differences from the can and the truck? I just got a van and I’m sure this video will make the job much easier to understand. Just looking for a bit more incite from an expert…
The way the harness is built is very, very different, so for swapping purposes I don’t like them as donors. Functionally, it’s all the same stuff. Engines, computers, sensors, etc.
@@DeadDodgeGarage so engine and transmission good. Find working from the same year truck??? And I am grateful for your help
Great video, very helpful. when I was pulling my donor out of a 01 1500 I noticed a device on the rear of the block that looks a lot like a crank sensor running off of the flywheel of the donor engine. What is that devise, I am hoping it is for the trans input.
second question: I plan on putting this in a 77 dually plow truck with a 4 speed, any experience with installing this magnum 5.9 in a standard trans?
and last but not least I can not find the diagrams you stated would be linked to the video.
I put links to a couple diagrams in the description but I couldn’t find the one I really wanted. Yes, that is a crank sensor. You need that, and you need something for it to read. Yes, I have put a magnum in front of a stick trans, but in a car. With the truck transmission, I think you can use a factory Ram truck flywheel. You will want to verify that yourself, as I have never done it. Whatever you end up doing, you’ll need to cut a hole in your bellhousing for the crank sensor to live in. I did a video series called The Three Pedal solution where I cover a lot of what you will need to do - but again, there will be differences in your case.
good day again, I have done some research that you might be able to help with. I don't have the spare parts lying around to test this. The magnum standard flywheel has the spots machined into it for the crank sensor. It typically comes with a 12 inch clutch. The 77 trans and truck comes with a 11 inch clutch but has a different size and spine to the trans, so I would have to use the 77s / 11 inch clutch to fit the trans. so will the 11 inch clutch bolt to the 01s 12 inch flywheel, I think the pressure plate might be big enough but I don't have parts here to try this.
now lets assume they don't match, can a normal drill, drill a flywheel to except the 11 inch clutch. I don't have the means to turn the flywheel down like you did. I also wonder if that larger flywheel fit inside the bell housing. Do you have a normal email address we can communicate through for more questions?@@DeadDodgeGarage
Bless you Jamie. Doing a 5.9 swap into a 65 swept line. This is a big deal for me! Mercy will it ever run?
I hope so! It’s not too hard to pull off! And I’m here for emotional support. Haha.
awesome guide!! Oddly my last 01 ram would stall when stopping with the vss broken. I would have thought it necessary.
Ok, this is an interesting point I chose not to take the time to cover in the video for some reason. Ok, that reason may be that I had totally forgotten. Anyway, my stick shift Charger with Magnum 5.9 would stall when it went into fuel cut and coasted to a stop. It just wouldn’t recover when you clutched in. If you blipped the throttle once while you were slowing down, it would come out of it and not stall. Weirdly, our van with an almost identical drivetrain does not do that. I believe the van has a ‘96 stick computer and the Charger has an auto computer. I was pretty sure this was related to not having a VSS. So it’s not 100%, but some computers will do that without a VSS reading - apparently.
@@DeadDodgeGarage Thanks for taking the time to clarify. Thinking about this swap and ditching the fitech in my cj7 so just trying to get it all figured out.
@@DeadDodgeGarage my ram van has a pink wire a white with blue stripe and a red wire and a red with white stripe for the Trans relay I have the 46re just a thought
Hey Jamie, great channel! What do you think about modding a kegger? I.E. Cutting down runners, porting, using plates to reduce plenum volume etc.
I’ve never done any of that, but I know there is a lot that can be done.
Friggin awesome video dude. Now do an OBD1 LOL. I’m looking at swapping a 93 5.9 into my 89 W150 5.2
Like I said, all of the important wiring you’ll need to add is the same. Hell the color codes on the wires are usually the same even… ‘93 being the last year of the old body style, I don’t really know what your donor wiring is going to look like - but given that you’re building an ‘89, I’d probably just take all of it and swap it over. That may be your easiest course. But I did the same basic thing on my van - I removed all of the TBI stuff, added a later truck harness (OBD2, again) and just used the wires from the original TBI engine that I needed.
@@DeadDodgeGarage sounds good buddy, thanks. All of the relays are in place on the donor. ASD, TRANS, STARTER, ETC. hoping it’s easy peasy
YES!!! THANK YOU FOR SHARING THIS!
Good morning sr I have a question how to wireing a cluster of 87 dodge ram charger if I use a 99 dodge ram 1500 for donor vehicle I just want to work the oil pressure and temperature tanks for you time and the videos is helping me to do my project
Use your original oil pressure switch and wiring and leave the newer switch out, or use a pipe tee and mount both. And for the coolant temp you can either use a tee to fit both, or drill and tap a second 1/8 pipe threaded hole to fit the original sensor in the front of intake near the thermostat. A ‘92-97 intake would have had two sensor holes, so there is a flat spot on the newer intake where it could be drilled.
Good video Jamie, I've a question, I have a 1990 D150 318/A518 running an driving truck I'm fixing up. I'm wanting to move to a Magnum 5.9 and is why I'm here. At first I was thinking just changing the engine and put all the 318 stuff on the 5.9 but after watching this video and seeing just how simple it is I'm now thinking also going with a 46RE since the PCM controls it and just swap the entire unit and get the harness and PCM at the same time. Now, my question is, since I don't have any donor parts yet and can be selective with what I buy what years do I need to be looking for? Watching this leaves me to think that maybe a 2001 and up but I don't know how far or is there are any other differences. I see the Rams on MarketPlace all the time being parted out, I just need to know what would be best to watch for. Thanks for the info and I'll be watching some more of your videos, good stuff. DC
You want about a ‘98-01 1500 for your donor, or that can go up to 2002 in a 2500 or 3500. That would give you the RE transmission, as well as the compatible PCM, and the easiest wiring to adapt. Having a ‘90, you also have a fuel tank with a pump in it already, and the TBI wiring system in place that adapts to the Magnum system really, really easily. You will have to change the pump to a higher pressure, but that’s not a big deal at all.
@@DeadDodgeGarageThanks, that helps. Are these PCMs flashable/programable like the GM 411s? I'm thinking a few mods while I'm at it and will likely needd a little teaking afterwards.
Great video! A lot of information covered.
I have an issue with a ‘99/5.9 wiring. I’ve lost speedometer/power windows/and blower motor power. Lost power to the starter at the same time. I wired the starter up to push button start for now until I can figure out what it could be.
Any advice as to what is bad?
Sounds like you lost an accessory feed. This could be a blown accessory feed fuse or an ignition switch failure - among other possibilities. I have had to replace multiple ignition switches in these trucks for various reasons, so I am tempted to point toward that - but the starter thing doesn’t really make sense there.
@@DeadDodgeGaragethanks for the tip! Going to replace the switch and switch harness and go from there. Much appreciated 👍
Thanks Jamie. Any insights into wiring for crate motor small block swaps? I’m guessing it’s a lot simpler
Oh, so, so much simpler. I guess I could do a guide on that.
Info on mopar crate swaps is pretty thin- I found a bit but it’s all over the place. Most crate motors seem to be of the 360 magnum variant- Most confusing has been sorting external to internal balance flywheels, and wiring.
@@rh752 have you seen my 318 to 360 swap guide from two Sundays ago? I cover the balance difference, the mount difference, and other various details you’ll need to watch out for.
Thanks for the videos you make. They have been a great help lately,but I have came a cross with a question; is it possible to wire a speedometer on a 1987 dodge ram charger that I swapped from 1999 dodge ram 1500 two wheel drive automatic transmission to the 1987 ram.
The problem with the ‘99 transmission is that it lacks the speedo drive that an early 90s electronic speed sensor / adapter can be plugged into. So while I’m sure there is some way to make this happen, I couldn’t begin to fathom what it is.
@@DeadDodgeGarage thanks I well check out have a good day
How much money would it be if I had the donor truck in complete with harness, pcm, sensors and so on?
Just found your channel and I appreciate all the great info. Curious what route you’d take to get a rot box challenger to run on the cheap. The original 318/3spd is a complete boat anchor.
Boat anchor, as in seized solid? Personally I would fix up another small block then. Nice and easy. The Magnum is always an option too. I’m leaning away from the complexity of fuel injection these days.
@@DeadDodgeGarage yeah crustiest I’ve ever seen. Rust pitted cylinders and unusable valve train. was hoping to find a low buck LA but no luck so far.
More awesome info! Thanks Jamie!
Hey Jamie, just watched the video and Im swapping a 97 ram 360 into a 91 ram. My questions are about the notching of the bell housing because I’m using the stock 91 trans and also the kick down rod. What is the best ways to achieve this. And yes I’m keeping the 97 efi. Thanks for the awesome video!
I’ve made the notch with a cutoff or grinder wheel. Not too big a deal, but it helps to have the later transmission to measure for reference. You won’t be able to use the kickdown rod. The throttle body is turned 180 degrees and uses a long throttle cable and kickdown cable to reach it. You can easily adapt the kickdown cable to work on your ‘91 transmission.
Thank you! Quick question that I may have just missed but is you fuse and relay center in conjunction with or instead of the original fuse box?
I don’t use the original fuse box at all. If you are using Durango type wiring, you would basically have to. I just add individual fuses and relays. Simple.
It would be cool to see Dead Dodge and SleeperDude do a collaboration video on the Minnie Winnie 👍🏼
I learned about SleeperDude in the comments! Then he dropped into the comments himself. Something tells me I’m a long, long ways away from him - but I’d totally be down for that.
Wow. I was thinking about a Magnum swap for my 67 Charger - it is an original 318 car. I was wondering if you gave up on the 44 or 46RE transmission? Did you have to wire in an overdrive lockout? I was wondering how hard the shift linkage conversion would be since my Charger has a console shift. Thanks for all the info.
Shift linkage lines right up, kind of. In my car, instead of modifying the floor or crossmember, I moved the drivetrain forward and notched the transmission. So I made an extended lower link, and a custom bracket to brace the bottom of the console linkage. And believe me when I say, it worked *very* well - but the transmission was bad when I got it, and I knew that. Eventually, second gear left the building. So that was a problem. If you check out my series “The Three Pedal Solution,” I discuss all of this in the first episode or two, and show everything that I did to make it work - as I’m ripping it all out… if I had used an actually good transmission, I might still have the damn car. It was so nice to cruise.
You do not have to have an overdrive cancel button unless you want to. It will shift into OD, and drop out for kicking down and passing or going up hills. Usually you’d only need the button to turn OD off for towing, and of course my Charger wasn’t doing any towing. But it’s not too hard to add if you want it.
I have a 2000 5.9 but it has the fuze box you said was in that red 98? Is that right or is it messed up? One of the wireing harnesses isnt connected to anything and i think its the transmission wireing.
Is there an easy way, HP Tuners maybe, to disable the PCM from throwing codes for all of the stuff you don’t need on a typical swap like the TCM, various solenoids, gauges, etc?
The short answer is, I’m fairly sure it can be done with the OBD2 computers, but I don’t really know. The great thing is that the computer soldiers on without those things and doesn’t really seem to care. And there’s no working engine light anyway so… 😅
Good afternoon, I'm a new subscriber and I really appreciate your videos. Though I have one question. I have a 1995 Dodge Ram 1500 with a 5.9 and I want to place it into a 1988 Ramcharger that has a 5.2 , would it be possible to remove the 1995 PCM and power distribution and place it into the 1988 Ramcharger? Is it compatible? Thanks!
I’m not sure that the power distribution box would be an easy swap over. I’ve never done that. But it’s pretty straightforward to use the PCM and engine harness and adapt them to the truck. I did essentially exactly that in our 1992 Dodge van, except I used 1998 wiring. And then of course you’ll need the later fuel pump in the tank.
Man such GREAT info in this video 👌. I do have a quick question though. Would the engine harness and pcm be the same between the same year (say 99) 5.9 gas between a 1500 and 2500? I'm about to swap a 5.2 or 5.9 into my 98 v6 5 speed ram and I'd really like the donor to have manual trans wiring so I don't have to deal with the auto junk. It's much easier to find a manual 3/4 ton than a half ton in my bone yards. Thanks for the awesome info!
As far as I know, they are the same. And if they aren’t the same, they’re probably still same enough to run.
@@DeadDodgeGarage thanks man I figured as much. I appreciate it!
I like the video a lot I plan on swapping my 85 dodge d150 cleaning the engine bay up and going through original harness to trim what I don’t need. Does anybody know if it’ll still run if it doesn’t detect a transmission I plan on using a a904 automatic transmission
Yes, it will run fine. If it’s a 97+ automatic computer, it will have a bunch of codes for missing transmission stuff, but it will still work.
Great video and information!👍
I wish I could find a reliable source for the 96 . I Got a derby engine I need less wires for in my cabin
What did you do as far as motor mounts? Im swapping a 5.9 magnum with the nv3500 in my 78 w200 in a few weeks looks like you just built custom plates but hard to see in the videos
No, you’ll just use factory V8 mount brackets. You may have to shim the rearward ear on the driver side.
Awesome thanks for the reply
This is awesome, ive been looking for a write up on how to do this, I run magnum 360 in my derby trucks, been looking into making a "one wire" setup. ( like an LS ) .is there a way to get your write ups here ?
I found the 3 print outs , is it possible to get the notes and such ... Great video, explained it how I can understand, subscribed.!
I run standalone fuel cell/ pump and 727 trans, so just engine managament would be simple
I could try and scan my chart as a visual aid. Pretty sloppy. Haha. Cool! Thanks!
Is there a way to do this swap on a obd2 cherokee jeep inline 6??
My 318 blew yesterday..
My jeep needs a new harness badly.. i have a 97 jeep cherokee inline 6 4.0..
99 donor harness cherokee but.. ahh skim key.. so swapped computer and im missing something..
Wonder if you have a vid on a jeep.. i know it should run really easy.. i dont need anything extra just run..
Thx
I don’t think the skim key would be a problem yet in ‘99, but I’m pretty sure those harnesses are different? I don’t know nearly enough about the 4.0 Jeep harnesses, PCMs, etc. I just know that they are functionally pretty similar to Magnums.
I have a question. Are these 97 and older PCM’s VIN programmed or too old for that? I have found a 5.9 with the wiring for $50 but it doesn’t appear to have the PCM.
They have a vin programmed, but it basically doesn’t matter.
You said something about the pcm not being happy if you don’t have the 46RE hooked up? I have a nv4500 in my truck already, is there something I need to do if I’m using an automatic harness?
Just changing the PCM or having it reprogrammed would do it. You’ll have a bunch of transmission codes. Not a real issue - but it may behave oddly in some situations, like slowing down coming to a stop.
Back again.
But if you chop the harness from the box to the cab you should
Only need battery power key power ona few wires correct ?
Yes. Good luck figuring out which ones they are though. You’ll need a truck harness diagram, or a whole bunch of time tracing it all down. And there are so many more wires there than you could ever use. What a headache. I’m guessing you are the person who commented the same thing elsewhere, and I answered there as well. In my view, it’s way too much work to adapt that box, when it contains way more circuits than could possibly be necessary in a classic swap, and it’s big and ugly. There are much better options available.
Hey Jamie quick question sir?? the magnum 318 v8 mpfi will it only crank but not start if the map sensor is not wired up,,i am asking because the ground squirrel chewed it off completely?!
It *should* still fire without the MAP.
@@DeadDodgeGarage well accurate to the engine diagram schematic for the 00-01 dodge ram and Dakota non California emissions vehicles the wires are green with a red tracer, black with a blue tracer and purple with a white tracer, and knowing some of what I do know about Chrysler EFI the purple with the white tracer is I believe the trigger wire that leads to the crank sensor so if that's the case I'm guessing that is why it doesn't start Jamie sir, but I asked you because I would about bet you know way more than me about Chrysler and Mopars period.
That's supposed to start according to the Chilton ^ correction my bad 99-00
Dude awesome thank you, also im doing a 99 3.9 with an NP435 in a Willys MB i think thats a good place to stick one
Yes! That sounds like a great fit. Compact and lightweight.
And way more powerful than the original flathead that i dont have
What if I'm going the other way like putting a 1998 cab on to a 1986 frame using the 1986 engine /using the 1998 wiring/ and have a A6 style box that I can use?
Not insanely difficult. You just need to use a couple power feeds out of the factory fuse / relay box to run the engine. I’ve never done this, but there is definitely more than enough wiring there to make it happen.
Im going to swap a 99 durango 5.9 into a 99 jeep xj. I want to keep as many factory amenities as possible. They have so many of the same options though. Id hate to lose them by swapping to a truck harness?? Or wiring it like its going in a classic car! Any input?
I don’t know about about computer pinout and sensor connector differences between the 4.0 and Magnum setups. In a 3.9 V6 truck, you can add the extra injector connectors, swap the PCM and you’re good to go. You’re not going to have the same luck coming from a 4.0… but it really isn’t all that different. There is a way to do this that results in a sanitary swap. But I can’t tell you every little connection you’re going to have to make to accomplish that. It will involve partially de-pinning both PCM harnesses, stripping both engine compartment harnesses, swapping things around, re-wrapping…
Do you think i can just use the durango harness that already had everything integrated (same as the 4.0) and just wire the jeep headlights etc into the durango harness/computer,
@@codyduncan1760 Yes, you absolutely can do that. People have done the same thing for classics, simply adapting the headlight wires and such to connectors that fit their lights. Just a good bit of work to get all of that stuff routed, trimmed, and up and running.
I want to 318 swap a 1988 comanche. Im getting a 1998 durango for the donor, whats the best harness for the swap its a 1988 jeep renix, would a ZJ harness work better than a ram ?
The Durango harness is very similar and would probably work fine. The problem with either option is the hard wired dash section. You’re going to have to cut almost all of that out and adapt the rest if you want to use the fuse and relay box. You’ll have to change headlight connectors and lots and lots of other things to make it work. This is why I prefer to just use the engine harness - and why the Ram is the best donor.
Thanks for doing this maybe I'll convert my Plymouth
i put a 2002 360 in my 1994 ram 1500 used the 1994 computer the injectors were different rather than change them i bought on ebay EV-1 to EV-6 injector adapters just plug on injector and the 1994 wires plug on the adapter been on there 8 years no problems
Nice! I’ve heard of those adapters. I have run into one issue swapping between injectors though - different injector dead time can lead to weird runability issue. I don’t know the different dead times between the different injectors, I just know I swapped in a set that really messed up how a 318 Ram ran earlier this year. Throwing a 360 computer on it fixed it, but we changed to different injectors instead.
@@DeadDodgeGarage yes i agree but so far i haven't had any problems. in my case i don't think the obd1 is as picky as obd2
@@DependableAutoTruck the one I mentioned actually was OBD1 - but in any case, I’m inclined to agree.
I'm wanting to swap the 4.7 that's in my 02 dakota that's 2wd automatic I've got a 98 1500 ram with a 5.9 automatic 4x4 I've been told the the 98 ram ecm will not control the transmission that's in my 02 dakota would you happen to know if that's true or not thank you
No. I don’t think it’s at all possible to make that 545RFE work behind the 5.2/5.9. I could be wrong… but the control systems are definitely different.
Hi Jamie, does it matter if the harness is from a 4x4? In your opinion is it even worth running the 46re in a classic?
Doesn’t matter, and… it depends. Those transmissions are always blown up and don’t fit well. But I had one in my ‘66 Charger briefly, and it really cruised great on the highway. But then it blew up.
@DeadDodgeGarage Thanks, Jamie. I'm completely fine running a 904 or 727 with highway gears. What speed sensor could be used in those transmissions, or is it worth worrying about?
What cold air intake is that also was wondering if you knew how to fix a p0207 and a p0208 code
P0207 and P0208 are injector circuit codes for cylinders 7 and 8. This isn’t like a V6 to V8 swap or something, is it? Haha. I would inspect the wiring for those injectors. If nothing is found, I would resistance test those injectors and compare what you find to one of the others. You could have two bad injectors, but that would be odd. I have no idea what cold air that was. Looked cheap.
@@DeadDodgeGarage no it is not a v6 to v8 swap I have been struggling to get this thing back on the road and these are the last 2 codes I need to get cleared and I have changed out the cylinder 7 injector and it did nothing and cylinder 8 I’m changing today thank you for the help I will check the wiring tonight
@@BradleyBurgett then I wouldn’t bother changing the other injector. Open up your wiring harness and look for booboos…
I put a 99 dodge 2500 5.9 Magnum into a 1985 Toyota pickup. I can get it to run and have moved it by jumping the fuel pump relay.
Should I just follow your recommendation and cut the harness and just wire what I need?
High recommend that. Haha. Wait, it runs without an ASD relay?
@@DeadDodgeGarage ya it’s not happy though it blows fuses occasionally
i love the 5.9 got 2000 dodge ram 1500 with the 5.9 rust free truck 150k og miles i love it.....
They’re awesome! The anemic horsepower rating (by today’s standards) doesn’t really tell the true story of these engines. They’re torquey, tire frying bastards that just about can’t be killed.
Can a JTEC controller and harness from a 42RE (auto) work with an AX15 (manual)?
In a word, yes. When I said “it will work, but the computer will be mad about the missing transmission stuff,” this is precisely what I was referring to. I’ve done it with success, but had a bunch of transmission codes. Down the line, you can always swap to a stick computer. All of the basic wiring stuff is exactly the same, so no modifications will be necessary there.
Hey I’ve recently put a 97 ram 2500 5.9 magnum in my 99 dakota rt I’ve swapped all my accessories from old motor oil pan oil feeding tube etc but its giving me no bus 900 codes could you possibly help
No bus indicates communication error on CCD bus between the PCM and gauge cluster. Did you swap the PCM? The ‘97 PCM does not support CCD. If not that, there could possibly be another electrical issue taking down the PCM. I’ll assume you used the intake and all sensors off of the original engine? Fairly sure the plugs are all different on the ‘97 engine.
@@DeadDodgeGarage i used my original pcm i also used the intake from 97 but my old sensors and injectors
@@DeadDodgeGarage well quick update it fired up this morning runs strong just no gauge functions but the first time i did try to fire it up they did work so im sure I’ll figure it out thanks for your help brother
@@DeadDodgeGarage i got it working no mores codes and i used my original pcm and everything is the same from the 97 it’s running like a beast
reaching out to ask if anyone has installed the whole engine and trans into a very early dodge truck(1977)? I am interested in having the overdrive in this truck. And how about the the transfer case?
my truck is 4 wheel drive.
The later transfer case is a problem because they flipped the front driveshaft output. The rest is no problem at all. I am doing exactly this in a 75 - and there will be video at some point in the future.
Oder cuestión I have the transmission of 87 ram charger 5.2 motor.
Is posible to install in the 99 motor 5.2
Yes. They bolt together fine. To use the fuel injection you need to use the flex plate from the 99, oval out one flex plate bolt hole, and cut a hole in the bell housing for the crank sensor.
Tks you help me a lot and tks to make the videos
Great info! Thanks!
Keep your odb II 96' up PCM . Because your trans is shifted by that p.o.s. PCM . Where my 93' Dakota and 95' Jeep Grand Cherokee trans are hydraulically shifted.
Did I not discuss that in this video? I don't think the RE came until '97 or '98 but can't remember the exact timeframe. Anyway, yes, if you want to use the RE transmission, you need the correct PCM. Most people swapping these into things won't use the newer transmission.
@@DeadDodgeGarage that PCM came out with dashes that have a digital mileage readout. Those came out in 96' not 97' .
The point is, they aren't any better than a 95' and down PCM.
27:26 hey that’s me!
It sure is!
Sorry I'm late, I was dealing with a Holly 1920.
🤮
How do you get msd distributors work on this magnum engines ?
Easy, if you’re using a carburetor. It’s exactly the same as an LA engine. If you still have the Magnum EFI system? You don’t.
Yes it matters what way you hook up the trigger wires on the relay as a relay will make spike fly voltage. That being said most automotive relays have a diode in them to stop the fly voltage spike! 85 is ground…. 86 is positive…. If you are using a relay that doesn’t have a way to stop fly voltage you need to get one that does as the fly voltage can damage a computer and other electronic equipment.
Above my pay grade
ruclips.net/video/LXGtE3X2k7Y/видео.htmlfeature=shared
Why can’t you take the fuse panel and put power to the circuits that need power ?
You can. I find fitting that big ugly box under the hood of a classic goes against my taste, and removing all of the donor truck’s wiring that is unused and then routing new circuits to it is much more work than adding two or three relays and fuses separately. But that is definitely an option.
Sleeperdude has been fitting a magnum into a 70s camper , he has had issues so ive linked your vid to his if thats OK
I’ve heard from him already 😅 several people have said I should give him a hand. All good, in any case.
Thanks for that one
What fuse panel did you use?
For my Charger, I used the cheapest little five fuse panel money could buy at O’Reilly.
Just bought one, the only ones I was seeing online were the type that ave the +&- posts to power the whole panel. Thanks for the reply.
How do you get past the vin coding for the ecu?
By completely ignoring it because it doesn’t matter. Lol. Before the advent of chip key security, the VIN is programmed but it doesn’t really mean much for our purposes. The important part is which engine it’s programmed for. I have swapped these back and forth in swapped vehicles with no issue. It could potentially be an issue for communication between various modules (gauges, body, ABS, etc.) in some factory applications. But obviously that’s not what we’re doing here.
@DeadDodgeGarage I have a gen 1 Dakota and am looking to put in an OBD 2 harness in it. It currently doesn't have any of its electrical harnesses. This seems way easier than going back with the stock system. Also easier with the tunability.
Hi Jamie! Good cotencontent. Surprise!
I put a motor out of my Dodge ram the 59 into my Dakota with a 52 now I do not have power or spark coming out of my distributor
Something is goofed. As long as that’s 5.9 Magnum in place of 5.2 Magnum and they are similar years (or you swapped the intake and all sensors,) everything is the same and it should run fine.
Thanks a ton!!
They are almost identical. Minus 2 cylinders
Can I put a magnum 5.2 in my magnum sxt??
Not easily 😅