Yes. I’m getting more and more convinced about SilicOne. Ever since Ran Sailing had a discussion about it several years ago. Now I’ve got my boat since three months, so next time it’s ready for a some bottom treatment SilcOne seems to be the choice 👌🏽
Great video very informative, who would have thought I would find anti fouling interesting , but I did , sure will help boat owners decide on the best way to go .
Thanks Shaun. Its been good to see and compare. The Silic one is a top performer . if your boat can do 6-8 knots it completely cleans its self. Thanks for watching and the feedback. Sail safe. Ant & Cid.
Agreed. However, the copper is short lived and not retained in the food chain. More worrying is the single use plastics that get into the food chain at the micro level as well as the macro level and visible level. You may find this video by us interesting. Pay particular attention to the facts on nanao plastics and the life expectancy of of plastic.... ruclips.net/video/ntDmBGLPzBE/видео.html Sail Safe Guys, Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.
I used to know someone who helped run an aquarium - a big one. They were always trying to replicate the concentration of salts from the water where the sealife came from, in the aquarium water. They said there is a lot of copper in seawater. Having said that, do we lnow what silicone will do?
I have Coppercoat on a 3 year old racing/ cruising Portsmouth UK based yacht and have been bitterly disappointed with performance. I lift it every year, scour, sand, divers down twice a year and still getting weed growth. I had a Bavaria 37 before which required two tins of Blake’s Tiger eroding and a mid-season scrub.
Yes. You can see in the video our problems with seaworm and barnacles we have to dive the boat every 2 weeks now. Yet we have seen other where it works so well. Ant
Thanks for this! The anti-fouling that was applied as part of the sale by the previous owner of our boat has been recalled…how that is supposed to work, I don’t know, but when we hauled it out for the winter, just a good hosing off was all it needed, so I’m not complaining one bit…but I’ve bought a second boat now, a little 16.5” trailer sailer, and I’d like to consider antifouling paint for next year. It’s got a little coppercoat left on it, and I’m keen to see how it holds up this year. We will be doing NOTHING like 7 knots, so this answered my question about the silicone based product. Boat speed has a LOT to do with how effective any antifouling product is at keeping the boat clean. My top tip is that if your boat isn’t fast, anchor out or grab a mooring ball on river with a current. It will be a good test of anchoring skills, and you’ll quickly find out if your ground tackle needs updating. 😊❤
We are re-coating our yacht in the spring with Coppercoat 9 years of hard use. We cannot complain. Stay tuned for the video. there are lots of other jobs in the pipeline too. Sail Safe mate. Ant & Cid
Thanks Philip. We could not find the info. However , based on what we have seen it is a top performer and the life span may be better than Copper coat. Sail safe. Ant
Good video. We decided on Coppercoat. The softness of the silicones bothered us. When you do get some growth...the worry of damaging the paint getting it off was worrisome. Coppercoat seems the best all around, and has the highest percentage of happy customers. Every paint seems to have its collection of unhappy ones. All of the people we personally know that have Coppercoat are very happy with it. One guy has had it for 15 years..and beside giving it a scrub when he is in clear water just pulls it out for other things every 2-4 years and gives it a bit a a wash, and in she goes. After seeing his hull when he was pulled out after 3 years, we were convinced. So we painted about 6 weeks ago...and time will tell! -Rebecca on SV BrickHouse
Hi Guys. If we could give any advice it would be that Copper Coat absolutely must be applied in line with the directions and their YT video. After application it must be abbraded in line with the instructions too. Sailing Britican have a good video on their recent re-application. The silicone does work exceedingly well possibly better than copper coat. However, We recently learned that it must not be removed from the water for more than 14 days or it dries out and becomes useless! The boat featured in this video has to be stripped and re-coated after being out the water 5 months... Sail Safe and thanks for watching. Ant, Cid & the Pooch crew.
SV Impavidus (Ant & Cid Sailing) Thanks for the advice. We have a video coming out soon about how we didn’t follow the directions, but we think it may work out ok. Our problem was the directions say to sand 3 days after application. Well 3 days after application it rained for 3-4 days and then we had EXTREMELY hard epoxy to sand ... and we may have gone overboard burnishing it ;) So it will either work really well, or we will have issues ;) Fingers crossed. I didn’t realize the Silicine couldn’t be out for more than 14 days. Our haulouts are NEVER that short :) -Rebecca
@@RVLifeNOW Be interesting to see how you get on. We are now 5 years into copper coat. We have had issues but all around the original application. Where we have made repairs or touch ups it is fine. We think Copper Coat should licence applicators. Based on a course or certification of some type. Then back it with an insurance guarantee. God knows they charge enough for the application but run to the hills and hide in the caves when there is a problem!!!
@@SVImpavidus We will put up our Coppercoat application video this coming Friday. I wanted to explore what might have gone wrong with other applications which might have caused longevity problems. I think I found a possibility or two. I did not completely follow the Coppercoat instructions and in one situation, wish I hadn't followed their advise. What do you think was wrong with your original application to cause your Coppercoat issues? Patrick
@@RVLifeNOWHi we are sure that the hull was not abraded correctly and that the keel only had two coats on not 5 as specified. A re coat was done to the keel but again it was not prepared properly and the keel epoxy applied did not adhere in a few places. We did the work ourselves again and so for its been ok. We are due to lift again in a few months so we will update you when we do. Ant.
Copper Coat seems to be similar to VC-17, which I used on my J-30 sailboat. VC-17 used copper powder mixed into the carrier, and also had teflon in it. VC-17 was as thin as water and dried in less than a minute. It produced an ultra-thin, very smooth and hard bottom.
So at the Southampton Boatshow today, I spoke with both a yard who applies Coppercoat and the U.K. supplier. One said abraid with 40 grit until 75% is back to the copper and roller for a racing finish. One said abraid to 180 grit and spray with an increased copper content. The lack of consistent approach could be one of the problems.
40 grit is extremely coarse and continually sanding one's entire hull back is a huge amount of work. I'd be tempted to sand it all back and coat it with silic one...
For myself on Ice Maiden I have a meticulous preparation for anti-fouling. We have just done a complete anti-fouling of Ice Maiden which will last for a minimum of 5 years before we do it all again. First we taken it back to the fiberglass with a bead-blaster. Then we apply 2 coats of etch primer with 24 hours between coats. The hull is then washed down and allowed to dry. We then apply 2 coats of an under-primer, followed by 2 coats of primer. These are sprayed on and allowed to try with a 24 hour dry time between each coat. We then spray on 2 coats of anti-fouling allowing again 24 hours between coats. Finally we roll on 2 coats of Bitumen paint, brushing behind the roller. This is allowed to dry for 48 hours and then we put her in the water. In the 15 years since Ice Maiden was built and launched there has been no growth on the hull with this method.
Robert Thanks for the comment. We take it that Ice Maiden is steel? Did you blast to SA 2.5 with beads? Do you know the wet film thickness of the coatings? We are currently looking a something for a future video. Ant's done a lot of work with steel coatings in his career, so we are interested to know pait secs and thicknesses to compare them across industries. And compare offshore industrial coatings with marine industry (boats) coatings to steel. We would be interested to know more detail. Ant & Cid
@@SVImpavidus Ice Maiden is a Laminated Plywood Trimaran that I designed and built myself of 40 feet on deck (50 feet overall). My next vessel which I just finished the design of is to be built in steel. As for Ice Maiden her hull is from the Inner Skin: 3mm ply laid fore and aft, a finish fiberglass cloth that was laid on in the green state, 3mm ply laid at 45 degs forward, a finish fiberglass cloth again laid green, 3 mm ply laid at 45 degs aft, 1 layer chopped strand and then 3 layers of kevlar. All resin way sprayed on for penetration and weight saving. When I do the area below the water line on all three hulls it is the sequence as I have already described. The area above the waterlines is painted in the same sequence except I use a top coat. All my paint is Epiglass Brand. The decks are done in a similar sequence. On the amas ahead of the forward crossbeam and aft of the rear crossbeam the decks are painted in Rescue Orange. Ice Maiden is regularly at sea for 6 to 9 months without touching land as I use the vessel for personal oceanographic research.
@@wallacegrommet9343 Bitumen Paint is available from Rural supply stores and building supply stores. In rural applications it helps suppress infestations of mites, fleas and other like pests. In the building industry it is often used on the exterior of basement walls as protection from water seepage.
A word of warning on coppercoat. I have used it on 3 boats. As it ages (5+ years), it breaks down, becoming quite porous and crumbly, offering no epoxy protection to the hull. It also breaks down quicker and turns black around bronze fittings. For cost comparisons, it can not be compared with other antifouling used in conjunction with a proper epoxy coating.
Ant an excellent video and very informative. You should be a presenter on the TV! Cid's narration was also excellent. Well done both of you. Kind regards Daryl.
Sailing Britican tells a different story about Copper coat. . .had it applied twice with copper coat US involved the second time and still they grow barnacles. . . they have lots of videos regarding it from the first time it was applied 'til now
Jill, Yes we have been in touch with Britican as we have the same problems. Yet our sister boat has no of these issues. The areas we applied the coating are clean and green. We have been in touch with CC 3 times. Our next haul out they are sending an expert to take another look. Meanwhile we have to rub the hull every two-three weeks with scotchbright. Sail safe. Ant
Good info here, thanks for making it. Pretty big jump though to assume Silic One will last 10 years. Would be amazing if it did. I use hard/racing antifoal which can be scrubbed as often as needed. Its been over 2 years now since the last haulout and still going ok but the intervals between scrubbing are getting closer. Will be hauling out Nov 2020.
Update! the Silic one is supposed to last 10 years. However, the boat we featured belongs to friends who left it on the hard for six months of the northern hemisphere's winter. Therein lies a tale, if Silic one is left out the water for more than 2 weeks it de-activates by hardening and just becomes another coating..... We will do an update video in the spring. You may like our boat electrics made easy playlist. Its part of our pass it on philosophy. Bit like you we want to share knowledge. As for antifoul, best to just copper sheet your hull. 😂
Cooper coat doesn't always work for me as adverted but ablative paint never fails me, and costs far less both in materials , paint and labor. Just one man's 2 cents worth, your situation may vary.
Yes we have had real problems with ours. Yet, others swear by it. It would appear when it works it works well when it does not it's a nightmare. Check out Sailing Britican. We have been in touch with them over the last two years. They have the same issues as us. Silicone seems to work well. Thanks for watching. Ant & Cid
Thanks mate. It makes the effort worthwhile when we get great comments like yours. Check out our other videos, Its great to have you following us and our tell it how it is channel. Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.
Perfect. I was talking to Phil last week about the Sillic One product and will be keeping an eye on things. In the meantime, we've been using Micron 77 and this has seemed to work pretty well for an ablative finish. By the time we get back to the States I think we'll be overdue for either reapplication or for selecting something new. Interested to hear what you say about props, as we're weighing a decision on PropSpeed.
Kevin, I have used PropSpeed on my last two boats and highly recommend. Prop on Bora was completely clean of growth. Even on Dixie Flyer in Galveston, the prop was clean as a whistle after 2 years. Great stuff and well worth the investment.
Hi Kevin. One point I did not really make well enough is that no antifoul that yacht users can buy legitimately will work if the boat speed is not enough to ablate, self clean and erode. In areas where the water fails to pass quick enough they simply dont work. I guess you could think of it as low pressure areas like the top of the rudder? Having said that I am very impressed with Philips set up It is as good as Coppercoat and knowing what we do about the poor application at some companies Silic one appears to be a better buy? I guess time will tell..... Thank for watching. Sail Safe.
@@phillipcorey2182 Hi did you need to apply a primer? Most non ferrous metals need an etch primer soon after they are exposed to oxygen. This stabilizes the surface and gives a sound substrate. It would be good to look at prop speed. But we just got back in the water!!! As we English say " Bugger, Too little too late! "
@@SVImpavidus Yes, but from my understanding it´s not necessarily required. Fox´s used something called a "tie coat", which allows SilicOne to bond to an existing ablative paint. They gave the bottom a good sanding, faired the keel where they performed some repair work, then applied the tie coat. If you look at the surface scratches, they appear white. That´s the tie coat showing. Don´t quote me, but I think SilicOne can be applied directly to gelcoat without primer. Actually, talk to Chris in the yard. He´s far more knowledgeable on the topic than I.
Sailing Yacht Talisman We just applied Propspeed for the second time. The first one went for 2 years full time cruising...Malaysia to South Africa. Very happy with it. It still needs to be wiped with a soft cloth, but nice to not have to scrape anything, ever! -Rebecca on SV Brick House
The Hemple website says the service life of Silic One on the hull is 2 years. Coppercoat still looks like the cheapest and needs the least attention, and we know there is no shortage of things that need attention on a boat.
Hi, Yes. At the time we made this video was made the Silik One site was not that informative. We still think that Copper Coat is the best long term given that you follow the instructions carefully. A new Coppercoat video in two weeks as we recoat our boat after 9 years... Sail Safe mate. Ant & Cid
Hi Another great video. I have a couple of questions, if I may. You said for your own boat it had five coats of epoxy. How many of these were laid pre-Coppercoat? How many layers of Coppercoat were applied? Did you start with a new boat or have to clean off old antifouling? Secondly, I'm impressed with the chocking (is that the right word?) of the boats in Almerimar, but for those re-applying ablative antifouling, how do people manage with so many supports and also they don't look all that adjustable. Thanks Philip
Philip. Hi The boat was new so it was ablated to rough the gel coat up and then a primer applied. After which 5 coats of copper coat were added. The coppercat is a water based epoxy so it helps protect the boats gel from osmosis. The chocks at Almerimar are quite a good system. The guys will move them if you need to but generally one will work round them and do the patches as they lift the boat. You get about an hour in the crane slings before they splash you. Sail Safe. Ant
Don’t you think it’s a bad idea to have the ships name on the tender because then dodgy people know your not on your boat because they tender is at the marina etc . Or am I too cautious?
We dont think your over cautious. It's better to be safe than sorry. Most of the sailing we do is with other budy boats. When we are on our own we have some simple security steps we take. But, we also have Oscar. While not a big dog he just does not like anyone on the boat and we have to keep him back a while when people visit. It's a good deterrent. We have tender name stickers waiting for us in Italy. the tender has a different name to the yacht so we are pretty cautious.. Sail Safe Ant & Cid.
Not sure what brand it was, but we do have several species of fish that scrape algae from the rocks. You can see scrape marks on barrels and buckets that have been floating for years. I even see them pecking algae growing around my glassbottom if I wait too long to clean it.
@@SVImpavidus sorry, I'm still learning the language! My keel is made of steel, so I cannot copper coat it unless I "cover" it first, The previous owners didn't and decided to use some "normal" anti fouling paint instead. I have no idea what method was used or how long it should last or what to do next! It seems to me to make more logistical sense to "cover" the steel and copper coat it, but in practice will it work? I hope this makes sense! Love to both. thanks for always being so helpful
@@bonnie_brett Ah Ha now I see. OK let's take a look. Your keel will be Cast Iron probably not steel. as the boat is conventional antifoul it makes no sense to strip back either the hull or the keel unless you are going to treat the whole boat. Hull and Keel. Cast iron is a funny material. It is actually porous to a degree so water can penetrate it somewhat. When stripped back it will quickly flash rust with the moisture and oxygen that is in the air. Our advice would be to clean back the keel buy sand blasting by someone that knows what they are doing. The standard for the blasting finish is called SA 2.5 as this is completed ask the contractor to use the air hose to blow all the dust and particles off the keel. You will then need to apply a zinc rich epoxy primer. 3M make this and you can get it direct from Copper Coat by mail order. You must get the first coat on within 20 minutes or so of the blasting or rust will already started to form under the epoxy! Hand apply the epoxy with a roller. the short Mo hair type is best. You will want to achieve a wet film coating thickness of 40-60 microns in each coat. 3 Coats is good, 5 coats is best. let the coats go tacky before you apply the next coat. In hot weather you may need to mix in a thinner with the epoxy so it is thinner. (this is always a good idea on the first coat as it helps penetrate the cast iron. Th 3M Primer can be coated over immediately it is cured. However we suggest that you rough it up a bit with some 360 grit sandpaper before over painting with your regular antifoul. Again 3 coats minimum on the keel and 4-5 on the leading edge. If you PM us on face book we can do in to a bit more detail and possibly recommend a specialist blasting company. Hope this helps. Ant.
@@SVImpavidus Yes you got it! Thank you so much! it makes sense and it is good that CC actually offers the zinc epoxy. I am assuming your keel would also be cast iron, given we have similar boats - different year? Thanks for this, I'll be in touch on Messenger, Enjoy it guys. xx
Turgut. Yes with hindsight we could have done that It would now mean taking the video down and editing it to go back up. As once on YT you cannot edit the video. Thanks for watching. Ant.
We did not lift at all this year. Generally while we were moving around we had a clean bottom. But in the last few months we have accumulated weed and barnacles in Licata like we have never seen before. More worrying is the original treatment had to be re done on the keel as the thickness was too little and the keel was stripped and re done by the original contractor FOC. At the time we were not entirely happy with the way this was done and asked Copper Coat to take a look. They said it was OK. However we now find that the epoxy primer is delaminating from the keel in large areas and will at some time need to be completely replaced after sandblasting. Again this was the applicators failure to do the job correctly as with Sailing Britican. But, we questioned CopperCoat at the time and they stood by their approved applicator. We are gathering our thoughts on how we deal with this before we contact Copper Coat. Clearly a 10 year life expectancy will not be achieved if the primer and work they approved is failing at just over 5 years....
Good question! The staff put a new stand in next to it then the old one is removed. If the areas are small then they can be painted when the boat is lifted. Thanks for watching. Sail Safe guys. Ant, Cid and the pooch crew.
Thank you Michel. We made this video some time ago now. There are now playlists on our RUclips channel. You can watch the maintenance videos or the Boat Electrical Made Easy videos in the order we made them. We also now have a web site. Its basic at the moment. However we are going to post all our Blogs from Facebook and all the technical papers we have written over the years as a free download, in the next week or two. Just visit www.svimpavidus.com. Hope you get a chance to watch the other videos and enjoy them too. We look forward to seeing your name pop up as a subscriber. Stay Safe. Sail Safe guys. Ant, Cid and the pooch crew.
Do you have any experience or knowledge of KISS-cote wipe on coating? Their WEB site claims some excellent properties for extending the life of anti-fouling and making barnacle removal easy, with a pressure washer or broom. The say that for boat speeds in excess of 12 knots, fouling is washed off. It also claims to increase boat speed by 6%. Do you know if this lives up to expectations, and reduces boat maintenance costs?
Hi. Not seen the product in use. We had a quick look and it appears to be a polymer of some type. We would be wary of coating anything on top of the coating we looked at as the self cleaning properties would be stopped? The important thing seems to be keeping the boat moving where possible. Having said that our Copper coat is still not performing and we are getting barnacles and sea worm that need cleaning off every 2-3 weeks. despite some very fast sailing. Thanks for watching and your comments. Sail safe. Ant & Cid.
@@SVImpavidus Watch this episode from SV Britican. ruclips.net/video/jVtzBenciz0/видео.html They have spent 20K on coppercoat and they are very dissappointed with results.
Yes. Bow thruster anode and antifoul. grease seacocks and inspect. Change leg oil. Grease prop, clean, antifoul and anode. Leg anode. Clean out leg water intake.Check rope cutter and sometimes hone the teeth. Chek rope cutter wear plates. Check rudder bearing and adjust if required. Touch up copper coat where required. abrade Copper Coat with scotch brite. clean topsides and polish. Clean fenders and polish. Clean teak and re oil. take off all running lines and put in a washing machine. Polish hatches and windows. Clean canopy and polish screen. Clean bimini. Polish all deck bright work and inspect all fittings. Drop anchor and clean out chain locker. Inspect chain and re-mark. Inspect anchor and swivel. re -bind shackles and swivels. clean and maintain all winches and windlass. Check backstays and rigging. Check all blocks and lines. Clean and lube furler to jib and furler to main. It all takes about 2 weeks. We rent a place for this time or stay on another boat. Thanks for watching. Ant.
@@SVImpavidus Nice! That's a hell of a list! I know hauling out once a year has it's expenses, however, do you find it cost effective to do this all at once per year or is it a personal choice? Seems to me you can get many chores done in an easy location while taking your time...
@@nobody46820 We do everything below the waterline every year without fail. Also the top sides polishing while she's on the hard. We then do it a couple of times a season while at anchor. It keeps the boat looking new. Some of the other bits we do again during the year like washing all the sheets and lines. As we are at sea all year they take a lot of salt and UV. Its a lot to do but then there is the other maintenance. We break it down in to pre sail checks, once a week checks, and once a month checks. Things like smoke detectors and gas detector we do every month. oil and water checks on the engine, every time we sail. Its a lot to do but we have some crib/check sheets I did when I bought the boat. This actually saves us time and some money because we catch stuff before it fails or falls in to the category of preventive maintenance. It's not all sea and sunshine! 😉Regards Ant.
The previous owner of our boat applied coppercoat and it works well. However, they did NOT prepare the keel properly and so that came off in strips and we applied a hard antifoul to it. Being low down and under the boat (with poor light) is seems to stay fairly clean.
We have had some major issues. Mainly due to application. Where we have re-done the work its fine. But very disappointed that the original work we paid for from new is failing and it started to fail after just a few months. When it works it works well, when is does not its a nightmare.... Thanks for watching. Ant
I had a boat with Coppercoat once off the coast of Essex, UK. It was in the water around 2 months and I'd never seen so much growth on a boat, it seems to work like a brilliant fertilizer. Never again, lesson learnt. BTW Epoxy is hydroscopic, it's just 3x less so than fibreglass.
Their guff says it has to be regularly moving through the water. We have dome 3700 miles in the last 18 Months we still have to clean the boat every two weeks. Apart from the bits I did which are clean and green. the Barnacles and sea worm are getting worse! Despite abrading as they suggest at the last lift. Ant.
@@SVImpavidus All boats generally have water moving past them, drop a tissue into the water in any harbour and you'll see it drift away. What I really don't understand about Coppercoat is why people keep buying it. Perhaps it can work under certain conditions but I've never seen it!!
@@G-ra-ha-m There is some guff about minimum water speeds we did see but cannot find it now. For us it has been an investment that has cost us probably £10k in haulouts, re coating, time lost etc. In honesty we should have had 5 coats of gelshield and a quality eroding antifoul every two years to get the same protection. It would have been half the cost. But those that rave about copper coat are strangely silent when you ask for detail or feedback. best regards Ant.
@@G-ra-ha-m Yes, we did see something posted about a minimum of 6 knots but can't find it now. There are areas where it works on our boat as with sailing Britican. But, other areas where it clearly is not working. Ant.
@@SVImpavidus I suspect it depends on the mixing. Copper is way heavier than epoxy so you'd need to be continually mixing the pot when applying it, and even then it would be uneven. By continually I mean with an electric paint stirrer whirring away as you dip the brush in. People would be better off buying sticky-back copper sheets and sticking them on with regular epoxy. Probably cheaper too - a win-win.
@@SVImpavidus There website finsulate.com is made in Englisch German and French I didn't look for an English version. Sorry Hockey and soccer toke most of time lately.
As our previous comments we have been in touch with Britican for the last two years. We have the same problems. However, when it works it works well. The patches we have repaired are brilliant. As is our sister ship launched at the same time. We know others that swear by it. Sail safe. Ant & Cid
SV Impavidus (Ant & Cid Sailing), one last thing if I may; that $15,000 price tag for that Copper Coat job, was way over the Top. Anyway, Fair Winds..!!
BullDog Jackson Coppercoat costs $1700 for a 40 foot boat...the same as a good quality ablative paint. When you have professionals prepare the hull and apply it, it can get very expensive, but its very easy to do yourself. We just applied it to Brick House...we will see if we followed the directions well enough or not. When Coppercoat doesn’t work, there is most definitely something that went wrong with the application. It’s a much different technique than common ablative paint...in fact it’s not a paint at all and can’t be applied the same way. But Coppercoat provide plenty of diy information on their website... Some people say you have to clean it less, but we will believe that when we see it...we are pretty sure we will still have to wipe it down once a month. -Rebecca on SV Brick House
9:20- Saw a video from some long-time cruisers who gave a tip: do NOT put the name of your boat on your tender. When thieves see your tender tied up at the dock they will know that (most likely) your boat is not occupied and thus an easy (soft) target...
Yes that's a good tip. Our tender is a Highfield, we call it Horatio. We have transfers waiting for us in Italy to put o. To be honest we hear of more thefts of tenders which are only tied up to docks or boats. We always lock ours. And of course we have an Oscar! Woe betide anyone that tried to take, what he sees as his ride to the beach:-) Sail safe Mike. Ant & Cid
@@SVImpavidus I've had someone pinch the dinghy in Dartmouth (but found it later) and somebody stole the oars while ashore in Roadtown later that same year.
thanks for the really good informations.... to bad that its nothing say about the ecology aspect. I do know some boat owners who cares more about the environment instead of the price
Bruce. Hi Silic one is different as it is silicone based. It has a super slippery surface . A different solution to the same old problem. Hope this helps? Sail Safe Ant & Cid.
He's a happy old sea dog even if he is getting on a bit. He's living a doggy dream with lots of walks on beaches and plenty of cuddles from folks in the marina. Currently laying in the sun while we fit the new Impavidus decals to the boom. Sail Safe. Ant, Cid and the pooch crew.
Even with no protection at all the propeller strut was clean. Ablative bottom paints will someday be illegal everywhere, due to the effect on marine life, like my favorite TBT. As an aside, the Italian cruise ship that sank off Tuscony was amazingly free of marine growth when recovered my inflatable fouled up in a couple of days while used in the waters of Puerto Rico.
And yet the commercial guys can use anything. One might think it's a ploy to get more expensive solutions on the domestic market. If one were paranoid . Sail safe. Ant.
Dan. We only go into marinas to pick up water or fuel. Or if the weather is predicted 30 knots + and we cannot get into a safe anchorage. We dont have the budget for marina dwelling. We wintered in Almerimar, But are now as we type at anchor just off the French - Italian border. Sail Safe. Ant & Cid.
Maxime thats interesting. Dean says Thesee was a French boat. Thesee is French for Thesis. We will pass it on when we see him Tomorrow. Thanks for watching. Sail Safe.
Well, its not been great for us but there are so many people that we know and have seen first hand that its been a top performer. Be good to hear more detail from you. Can you let us know why you have the opinion you do? Ant & Cid
Graeme. As our previous comments we have been in touch with Britican for the last two years. We have the same problems. However when it works it works well. Our sister boat coated the same time as us by a different applicator has no problems at all. Sail safe. Ant & Cid
Yes. I’m getting more and more convinced about SilicOne. Ever since Ran Sailing had a discussion about it several years ago. Now I’ve got my boat since three months, so next time it’s ready for a some bottom treatment SilcOne seems to be the choice 👌🏽
More on Coppercoat from us in the comming weeks as we are recoating ... Stay tuned.
Great video very informative, who would have thought I would find anti fouling interesting , but I did , sure will help boat owners decide on the best way to go .
Thanks Shaun. Its been good to see and compare. The Silic one is a top performer . if your boat can do 6-8 knots it completely cleans its self. Thanks for watching and the feedback. Sail safe. Ant & Cid.
Please bear in mind that copper is a biozid that gets into the sea, stays there and kills microorganisms!
Interesting video :-)
Agreed. However, the copper is short lived and not retained in the food chain. More worrying is the single use plastics that get into the food chain at the micro level as well as the macro level and visible level. You may find this video by us interesting. Pay particular attention to the facts on nanao plastics and the life expectancy of of plastic.... ruclips.net/video/ntDmBGLPzBE/видео.html
Sail Safe Guys, Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.
I used to know someone who helped run an aquarium - a big one. They were always trying to replicate the concentration of salts from the water where the sealife came from, in the aquarium water. They said there is a lot of copper in seawater.
Having said that, do we lnow what silicone will do?
I have Coppercoat on a 3 year old racing/ cruising Portsmouth UK based yacht and have been bitterly disappointed with performance. I lift it every year, scour, sand, divers down twice a year and still getting weed growth.
I had a Bavaria 37 before which required two tins of Blake’s Tiger eroding and a mid-season scrub.
Yes. You can see in the video our problems with seaworm and barnacles we have to dive the boat every 2 weeks now. Yet we have seen other where it works so well. Ant
Thanks for this! The anti-fouling that was applied as part of the sale by the previous owner of our boat has been recalled…how that is supposed to work, I don’t know, but when we hauled it out for the winter, just a good hosing off was all it needed, so I’m not complaining one bit…but I’ve bought a second boat now, a little 16.5” trailer sailer, and I’d like to consider antifouling paint for next year. It’s got a little coppercoat left on it, and I’m keen to see how it holds up this year. We will be doing NOTHING like 7 knots, so this answered my question about the silicone based product. Boat speed has a LOT to do with how effective any antifouling product is at keeping the boat clean. My top tip is that if your boat isn’t fast, anchor out or grab a mooring ball on river with a current. It will be a good test of anchoring skills, and you’ll quickly find out if your ground tackle needs updating. 😊❤
We are re-coating our yacht in the spring with Coppercoat 9 years of hard use. We cannot complain. Stay tuned for the video. there are lots of other jobs in the pipeline too. Sail Safe mate. Ant & Cid
Thanks Ant. You are correct on your longevity assumptions on the SilicOne....10 years according to Hempel. Informative vid.
Thanks Philip. We could not find the info. However , based on what we have seen it is a top performer and the life span may be better than Copper coat. Sail safe. Ant
Good video. We decided on Coppercoat. The softness of the silicones bothered us. When you do get some growth...the worry of damaging the paint getting it off was worrisome. Coppercoat seems the best all around, and has the highest percentage of happy customers. Every paint seems to have its collection of unhappy ones. All of the people we personally know that have Coppercoat are very happy with it. One guy has had it for 15 years..and beside giving it a scrub when he is in clear water just pulls it out for other things every 2-4 years and gives it a bit a a wash, and in she goes. After seeing his hull when he was pulled out after 3 years, we were convinced. So we painted about 6 weeks ago...and time will tell! -Rebecca on SV BrickHouse
Hi Guys. If we could give any advice it would be that Copper Coat absolutely must be applied in line with the directions and their YT video. After application it must be abbraded in line with the instructions too. Sailing Britican have a good video on their recent re-application. The silicone does work exceedingly well possibly better than copper coat. However, We recently learned that it must not be removed from the water for more than 14 days or it dries out and becomes useless! The boat featured in this video has to be stripped and re-coated after being out the water 5 months... Sail Safe and thanks for watching. Ant, Cid & the Pooch crew.
SV Impavidus (Ant & Cid Sailing) Thanks for the advice. We have a video coming out soon about how we didn’t follow the directions, but we think it may work out ok. Our problem was the directions say to sand 3 days after application. Well 3 days after application it rained for 3-4 days and then we had EXTREMELY hard epoxy to sand ... and we may have gone overboard burnishing it ;) So it will either work really well, or we will have issues ;) Fingers crossed. I didn’t realize the Silicine couldn’t be out for more than 14 days. Our haulouts are NEVER that short :) -Rebecca
@@RVLifeNOW Be interesting to see how you get on. We are now 5 years into copper coat. We have had issues but all around the original application. Where we have made repairs or touch ups it is fine. We think Copper Coat should licence applicators. Based on a course or certification of some type. Then back it with an insurance guarantee. God knows they charge enough for the application but run to the hills and hide in the caves when there is a problem!!!
@@SVImpavidus We will put up our Coppercoat application video this coming Friday. I wanted to explore what might have gone wrong with other applications which might have caused longevity problems. I think I found a possibility or two. I did not completely follow the Coppercoat instructions and in one situation, wish I hadn't followed their advise. What do you think was wrong with your original application to cause your Coppercoat issues? Patrick
@@RVLifeNOWHi we are sure that the hull was not abraded correctly and that the keel only had two coats on not 5 as specified. A re coat was done to the keel but again it was not prepared properly and the keel epoxy applied did not adhere in a few places. We did the work ourselves again and so for its been ok. We are due to lift again in a few months so we will update you when we do. Ant.
Copper Coat seems to be similar to VC-17, which I used on my J-30 sailboat. VC-17 used copper powder mixed into the carrier, and also had teflon in it.
VC-17 was as thin as water and dried in less than a minute. It produced an ultra-thin, very smooth and hard bottom.
Similar principal we think. But like Marmite you love it or hate it. Check out sailing Briticans latest vid there is an update. Regards Ant.
So at the Southampton Boatshow today, I spoke with both a yard who applies Coppercoat and the U.K. supplier. One said abraid with 40 grit until 75% is back to the copper and roller for a racing finish. One said abraid to 180 grit and spray with an increased copper content. The lack of consistent approach could be one of the problems.
Was that Osmotect from the Hamble?
40 grit is extremely coarse and continually sanding one's entire hull back is a huge amount of work. I'd be tempted to sand it all back and coat it with silic one...
For myself on Ice Maiden I have a meticulous preparation for anti-fouling. We have just done a complete anti-fouling of Ice Maiden which will last for a minimum of 5 years before we do it all again. First we taken it back to the fiberglass with a bead-blaster. Then we apply 2 coats of etch primer with 24 hours between coats. The hull is then washed down and allowed to dry. We then apply 2 coats of an under-primer, followed by 2 coats of primer. These are sprayed on and allowed to try with a 24 hour dry time between each coat. We then spray on 2 coats of anti-fouling allowing again 24 hours between coats. Finally we roll on 2 coats of Bitumen paint, brushing behind the roller. This is allowed to dry for 48 hours and then we put her in the water. In the 15 years since Ice Maiden was built and launched there has been no growth on the hull with this method.
Robert Thanks for the comment. We take it that Ice Maiden is steel? Did you blast to SA 2.5 with beads? Do you know the wet film thickness of the coatings? We are currently looking a something for a future video. Ant's done a lot of work with steel coatings in his career, so we are interested to know pait secs and thicknesses to compare them across industries. And compare offshore industrial coatings with marine industry (boats) coatings to steel. We would be interested to know more detail. Ant & Cid
@@SVImpavidus Ice Maiden is a Laminated Plywood Trimaran that I designed and built myself of 40 feet on deck (50 feet overall). My next vessel which I just finished the design of is to be built in steel. As for Ice Maiden her hull is from the Inner Skin: 3mm ply laid fore and aft, a finish fiberglass cloth that was laid on in the green state, 3mm ply laid at 45 degs forward, a finish fiberglass cloth again laid green, 3 mm ply laid at 45 degs aft, 1 layer chopped strand and then 3 layers of kevlar. All resin way sprayed on for penetration and weight saving. When I do the area below the water line on all three hulls it is the sequence as I have already described. The area above the waterlines is painted in the same sequence except I use a top coat. All my paint is Epiglass Brand. The decks are done in a similar sequence. On the amas ahead of the forward crossbeam and aft of the rear crossbeam the decks are painted in Rescue Orange. Ice Maiden is regularly at sea for 6 to 9 months without touching land as I use the vessel for personal oceanographic research.
Not familiar with bitumen paint
@@wallacegrommet9343 Bitumen Paint is available from Rural supply stores and building supply stores. In rural applications it helps suppress infestations of mites, fleas and other like pests. In the building industry it is often used on the exterior of basement walls as protection from water seepage.
Nice video 😊 It really helped me to understand the differences.
Thanks for watching Charlie. Take a look at our other video's there are over 200 now. Sail Safe mate. Ant & Cid
Very nice video. Good job comparing anti-foul bottom paint! Thank you! 👍
Thanks for watching. Ant.
A word of warning on coppercoat. I have used it on 3 boats. As it ages (5+ years), it breaks down, becoming quite porous and crumbly, offering no epoxy protection to the hull. It also breaks down quicker and turns black around bronze fittings. For cost comparisons, it can not be compared with other antifouling used in conjunction with a proper epoxy coating.
Ours is 7 years old and we have no problems other than the bad job done on the keel.... Twice! Se the video in Tunisia. Ant.
Ant an excellent video and very informative. You should be a presenter on the TV! Cid's narration was also excellent. Well done both of you. Kind regards Daryl.
Daryl. Thanks so much. It makes the time and effort so worthwhile to get such nice feedback. Ant & Cid.
Sailing Britican tells a different story about Copper coat. . .had it applied twice with copper coat US involved the second time and still they grow barnacles. . . they have lots of videos regarding it from the first time it was applied 'til now
Jill, Yes we have been in touch with Britican as we have the same problems. Yet our sister boat has no of these issues. The areas we applied the coating are clean and green. We have been in touch with CC 3 times. Our next haul out they are sending an expert to take another look. Meanwhile we have to rub the hull every two-three weeks with scotchbright. Sail safe. Ant
Very informative guys, a lot of people will find this video useful and get something out of it. 👌🏼
Thanks guy's. We hope they do. Sail Safe. Ant & Cid xx
Good info here, thanks for making it. Pretty big jump though to assume Silic One will last 10 years. Would be amazing if it did. I use hard/racing antifoal which can be scrubbed as often as needed. Its been over 2 years now since the last haulout and still going ok but the intervals between scrubbing are getting closer. Will be hauling out Nov 2020.
Update! the Silic one is supposed to last 10 years. However, the boat we featured belongs to friends who left it on the hard for six months of the northern hemisphere's winter. Therein lies a tale, if Silic one is left out the water for more than 2 weeks it de-activates by hardening and just becomes another coating..... We will do an update video in the spring. You may like our boat electrics made easy playlist. Its part of our pass it on philosophy. Bit like you we want to share knowledge. As for antifoul, best to just copper sheet your hull. 😂
Cooper coat doesn't always work for me as adverted but ablative paint never fails me, and costs far less both in materials , paint and labor. Just one man's 2 cents worth, your situation may vary.
Yes we have had real problems with ours. Yet, others swear by it. It would appear when it works it works well when it does not it's a nightmare. Check out Sailing Britican. We have been in touch with them over the last two years. They have the same issues as us. Silicone seems to work well. Thanks for watching. Ant & Cid
I found coppercoat worked the best when the boat was out of the water.
@@G-ra-ha-m 😂🤣😂
Outstanding
Thanks mate. It makes the effort worthwhile when we get great comments like yours. Check out our other videos, Its great to have you following us and our tell it how it is channel. Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.
Perfect. I was talking to Phil last week about the Sillic One product and will be keeping an eye on things. In the meantime, we've been using Micron 77 and this has seemed to work pretty well for an ablative finish. By the time we get back to the States I think we'll be overdue for either reapplication or for selecting something new. Interested to hear what you say about props, as we're weighing a decision on PropSpeed.
Kevin, I have used PropSpeed on my last two boats and highly recommend. Prop on Bora was completely clean of growth. Even on Dixie Flyer in Galveston, the prop was clean as a whistle after 2 years. Great stuff and well worth the investment.
Hi Kevin. One point I did not really make well enough is that no antifoul that yacht users can buy legitimately will work if the boat speed is not enough to ablate, self clean and erode. In areas where the water fails to pass quick enough they simply dont work. I guess you could think of it as low pressure areas like the top of the rudder? Having said that I am very impressed with Philips set up It is as good as Coppercoat and knowing what we do about the poor application at some companies Silic one appears to be a better buy? I guess time will tell..... Thank for watching. Sail Safe.
@@phillipcorey2182 Hi did you need to apply a primer? Most non ferrous metals need an etch primer soon after they are exposed to oxygen. This stabilizes the surface and gives a sound substrate. It would be good to look at prop speed. But we just got back in the water!!! As we English say " Bugger, Too little too late! "
@@SVImpavidus Yes, but from my understanding it´s not necessarily required. Fox´s used something called a "tie coat", which allows SilicOne to bond to an existing ablative paint. They gave the bottom a good sanding, faired the keel where they performed some repair work, then applied the tie coat. If you look at the surface scratches, they appear white. That´s the tie coat showing. Don´t quote me, but I think SilicOne can be applied directly to gelcoat without primer. Actually, talk to Chris in the yard. He´s far more knowledgeable on the topic than I.
Sailing Yacht Talisman We just applied Propspeed for the second time. The first one went for 2 years full time cruising...Malaysia to South Africa. Very happy with it. It still needs to be wiped with a soft cloth, but nice to not have to scrape anything, ever! -Rebecca on SV Brick House
The Hemple website says the service life of Silic One on the hull is 2 years. Coppercoat still looks like the cheapest and needs the least attention, and we know there is no shortage of things that need attention on a boat.
Hi, Yes. At the time we made this video was made the Silik One site was not that informative. We still think that Copper Coat is the best long term given that you follow the instructions carefully. A new Coppercoat video in two weeks as we recoat our boat after 9 years... Sail Safe mate. Ant & Cid
Hi Another great video. I have a couple of questions, if I may. You said for your own boat it had five coats of epoxy. How many of these were laid pre-Coppercoat? How many layers of Coppercoat were applied? Did you start with a new boat or have to clean off old antifouling? Secondly, I'm impressed with the chocking (is that the right word?) of the boats in Almerimar, but for those re-applying ablative antifouling, how do people manage with so many supports and also they don't look all that adjustable.
Thanks Philip
Philip. Hi The boat was new so it was ablated to rough the gel coat up and then a primer applied. After which 5 coats of copper coat were added. The coppercat is a water based epoxy so it helps protect the boats gel from osmosis. The chocks at Almerimar are quite a good system. The guys will move them if you need to but generally one will work round them and do the patches as they lift the boat. You get about an hour in the crane slings before they splash you. Sail Safe. Ant
@@SVImpavidus excellent. Thank you
While I think the best and most reliable is copper coat I believe many areas will not allow it. Which leaves silicone as the clear winner .
Good stuff. Given us a bit to think about when we have Pollyanna lifted shortly.
This is the place to do it. Warm and dry! The Silic One is very good. Ant.
Don’t you think it’s a bad idea to have the ships name on the tender because then dodgy people know your not on your boat because they tender is at the marina etc . Or am I too cautious?
We dont think your over cautious. It's better to be safe than sorry. Most of the sailing we do is with other budy boats. When we are on our own we have some simple security steps we take. But, we also have Oscar. While not a big dog he just does not like anyone on the boat and we have to keep him back a while when people visit. It's a good deterrent. We have tender name stickers waiting for us in Italy. the tender has a different name to the yacht so we are pretty cautious.. Sail Safe Ant & Cid.
I heard about a guy here in Bermuda who used a silicone antifouling. He had problems with fish nibbling at the growth and damaging the silicone.
Wow not heard that before! Thanks for the info. Sail Safe. Ant
Not sure what brand it was, but we do have several species of fish that scrape algae from the rocks. You can see scrape marks on barrels and buckets that have been floating for years. I even see them pecking algae growing around my glassbottom if I wait too long to clean it.
I think the fouling on your forward section of the hull may just be down to the coppercoat not being sanded enough in that area.
Spot on Norman! Down to us rushing last time we were out!
Teak = Nappy san . Works a treat
We had heard that too. Something to try.
Ant.
Thank you for this Ant & Cid. May I ask what is the cover in your keel, please? I am currently debating what to do based on that
Hi Bonnie. Do you mean the primer or the Copper coat? Number of coats etc? Ant.
@@SVImpavidus sorry, I'm still learning the language! My keel is made of steel, so I cannot copper coat it unless I "cover" it first, The previous owners didn't and decided to use some "normal" anti fouling paint instead. I have no idea what method was used or how long it should last or what to do next! It seems to me to make more logistical sense to "cover" the steel and copper coat it, but in practice will it work? I hope this makes sense! Love to both. thanks for always being so helpful
so, probably I mean the "primer" is that what separates the metals?
@@bonnie_brett Ah Ha now I see. OK let's take a look. Your keel will be Cast Iron probably not steel. as the boat is conventional antifoul it makes no sense to strip back either the hull or the keel unless you are going to treat the whole boat. Hull and Keel.
Cast iron is a funny material. It is actually porous to a degree so water can penetrate it somewhat. When stripped back it will quickly flash rust with the moisture and oxygen that is in the air. Our advice would be to clean back the keel buy sand blasting by someone that knows what they are doing. The standard for the blasting finish is called SA 2.5 as this is completed ask the contractor to use the air hose to blow all the dust and particles off the keel. You will then need to apply a zinc rich epoxy primer. 3M make this and you can get it direct from Copper Coat by mail order. You must get the first coat on within 20 minutes or so of the blasting or rust will already started to form under the epoxy! Hand apply the epoxy with a roller. the short Mo hair type is best. You will want to achieve a wet film coating thickness of 40-60 microns in each coat. 3 Coats is good, 5 coats is best. let the coats go tacky before you apply the next coat. In hot weather you may need to mix in a thinner with the epoxy so it is thinner. (this is always a good idea on the first coat as it helps penetrate the cast iron. Th 3M Primer can be coated over immediately it is cured. However we suggest that you rough it up a bit with some 360 grit sandpaper before over painting with your regular antifoul. Again 3 coats minimum on the keel and 4-5 on the leading edge. If you PM us on face book we can do in to a bit more detail and possibly recommend a specialist blasting company. Hope this helps. Ant.
@@SVImpavidus Yes you got it! Thank you so much! it makes sense and it is good that CC actually offers the zinc epoxy. I am assuming your keel would also be cast iron, given we have similar boats - different year? Thanks for this, I'll be in touch on Messenger, Enjoy it guys. xx
Many thanks great video. Perhaps you could include a table at the end to show the cost instead of narrating it? Gets confusing..
Turgut. Yes with hindsight we could have done that It would now mean taking the video down and editing it to go back up. As once on YT you cannot edit the video. Thanks for watching. Ant.
You could put this information in the description of the video?
thanks very helpfull
Thank You Peter. Glad it has been of use. Ant.
Subscription complete
Thanks you. Loving the Trucks on your profile. Stay Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.
hello any new update on your antifouling after another year
We did not lift at all this year. Generally while we were moving around we had a clean bottom. But in the last few months we have accumulated weed and barnacles in Licata like we have never seen before. More worrying is the original treatment had to be re done on the keel as the thickness was too little and the keel was stripped and re done by the original contractor FOC. At the time we were not entirely happy with the way this was done and asked Copper Coat to take a look. They said it was OK. However we now find that the epoxy primer is delaminating from the keel in large areas and will at some time need to be completely replaced after sandblasting. Again this was the applicators failure to do the job correctly as with Sailing Britican. But, we questioned CopperCoat at the time and they stood by their approved applicator. We are gathering our thoughts on how we deal with this before we contact Copper Coat. Clearly a 10 year life expectancy will not be achieved if the primer and work they approved is failing at just over 5 years....
Thanks for video. Silly question but how do you treat and paint the areas where the wooden stands hold up the boat?
Good question! The staff put a new stand in next to it then the old one is removed. If the areas are small then they can be painted when the boat is lifted. Thanks for watching. Sail Safe guys. Ant, Cid and the pooch crew.
Very informative guys. Well done and thank you for posting!
Thank you Michel. We made this video some time ago now. There are now playlists on our RUclips channel. You can watch the maintenance videos or the Boat Electrical Made Easy videos in the order we made them. We also now have a web site. Its basic at the moment. However we are going to post all our Blogs from Facebook and all the technical papers we have written over the years as a free download, in the next week or two. Just visit www.svimpavidus.com. Hope you get a chance to watch the other videos and enjoy them too. We look forward to seeing your name pop up as a subscriber. Stay Safe. Sail Safe guys. Ant, Cid and the pooch crew.
Soo silic one recommend 2 coats? And its good for salt water?
I cannot tell you about the application process or water type but it does seem to work well in the med.
Do you have any experience or knowledge of KISS-cote wipe on coating? Their WEB site claims some excellent properties for extending the life of anti-fouling and making barnacle removal easy, with a pressure washer or broom. The say that for boat speeds in excess of 12 knots, fouling is washed off. It also claims to increase boat speed by 6%. Do you know if this lives up to expectations, and reduces boat maintenance costs?
Hi. Not seen the product in use. We had a quick look and it appears to be a polymer of some type. We would be wary of coating anything on top of the coating we looked at as the self cleaning properties would be stopped? The important thing seems to be keeping the boat moving where possible. Having said that our Copper coat is still not performing and we are getting barnacles and sea worm that need cleaning off every 2-3 weeks. despite some very fast sailing. Thanks for watching and your comments. Sail safe. Ant & Cid.
@@SVImpavidus Watch this episode from SV Britican. ruclips.net/video/jVtzBenciz0/видео.html
They have spent 20K on coppercoat and they are very dissappointed with results.
If/since you haul out every year, do you have a specific "To do" list when you are on the hard?
Yes. Bow thruster anode and antifoul. grease seacocks and inspect. Change leg oil. Grease prop, clean, antifoul and anode. Leg anode. Clean out leg water intake.Check rope cutter and sometimes hone the teeth. Chek rope cutter wear plates. Check rudder bearing and adjust if required. Touch up copper coat where required. abrade Copper Coat with scotch brite. clean topsides and polish. Clean fenders and polish. Clean teak and re oil. take off all running lines and put in a washing machine. Polish hatches and windows. Clean canopy and polish screen. Clean bimini. Polish all deck bright work and inspect all fittings. Drop anchor and clean out chain locker. Inspect chain and re-mark. Inspect anchor and swivel. re -bind shackles and swivels. clean and maintain all winches and windlass. Check backstays and rigging. Check all blocks and lines. Clean and lube furler to jib and furler to main. It all takes about 2 weeks. We rent a place for this time or stay on another boat. Thanks for watching. Ant.
@@SVImpavidus Nice! That's a hell of a list! I know hauling out once a year has it's expenses, however, do you find it cost effective to do this all at once per year or is it a personal choice? Seems to me you can get many chores done in an easy location while taking your time...
@@nobody46820 We do everything below the waterline every year without fail. Also the top sides polishing while she's on the hard. We then do it a couple of times a season while at anchor. It keeps the boat looking new. Some of the other bits we do again during the year like washing all the sheets and lines. As we are at sea all year they take a lot of salt and UV. Its a lot to do but then there is the other maintenance. We break it down in to pre sail checks, once a week checks, and once a month checks. Things like smoke detectors and gas detector we do every month. oil and water checks on the engine, every time we sail. Its a lot to do but we have some crib/check sheets I did when I bought the boat. This actually saves us time and some money because we catch stuff before it fails or falls in to the category of preventive maintenance. It's not all sea and sunshine! 😉Regards Ant.
@@SVImpavidus Like it! Seems to me hauling out once a year (if possible) that the benefits outweigh the negatives.
@@nobody46820 Absolutely!
The previous owner of our boat applied coppercoat and it works well. However, they did NOT prepare the keel properly and so that came off in strips and we applied a hard antifoul to it. Being low down and under the boat (with poor light) is seems to stay fairly clean.
We have had some major issues. Mainly due to application. Where we have re-done the work its fine. But very disappointed that the original work we paid for from new is failing and it started to fail after just a few months. When it works it works well, when is does not its a nightmare.... Thanks for watching. Ant
I had a boat with Coppercoat once off the coast of Essex, UK. It was in the water around 2 months and I'd never seen so much growth on a boat, it seems to work like a brilliant fertilizer. Never again, lesson learnt.
BTW Epoxy is hydroscopic, it's just 3x less so than fibreglass.
Their guff says it has to be regularly moving through the water. We have dome 3700 miles in the last 18 Months we still have to clean the boat every two weeks. Apart from the bits I did which are clean and green. the Barnacles and sea worm are getting worse! Despite abrading as they suggest at the last lift. Ant.
@@SVImpavidus All boats generally have water moving past them, drop a tissue into the water in any harbour and you'll see it drift away.
What I really don't understand about Coppercoat is why people keep buying it. Perhaps it can work under certain conditions but I've never seen it!!
@@G-ra-ha-m There is some guff about minimum water speeds we did see but cannot find it now. For us it has been an investment that has cost us probably £10k in haulouts, re coating, time lost etc. In honesty we should have had 5 coats of gelshield and a quality eroding antifoul every two years to get the same protection. It would have been half the cost. But those that rave about copper coat are strangely silent when you ask for detail or feedback. best regards Ant.
@@G-ra-ha-m Yes, we did see something posted about a minimum of 6 knots but can't find it now. There are areas where it works on our boat as with sailing Britican. But, other areas where it clearly is not working. Ant.
@@SVImpavidus I suspect it depends on the mixing. Copper is way heavier than epoxy so you'd need to be continually mixing the pot when applying it, and even then it would be uneven.
By continually I mean with an electric paint stirrer whirring away as you dip the brush in. People would be better off buying sticky-back copper sheets and sticking them on with regular epoxy. Probably cheaper too - a win-win.
Finsulate.
A new invention works quit well.
Shame their videos have no subtitles as they are not in english....
@@SVImpavidus
There website finsulate.com is made in Englisch German and French
I didn't look for an English version.
Sorry Hockey and soccer toke most of time lately.
Had Coppercoat applied to my boat, as well and was never impressed with it. It does not work as advertised.
As our previous comments we have been in touch with Britican for the last two years. We have the same problems. However, when it works it works well. The patches we have repaired are brilliant. As is our sister ship launched at the same time. We know others that swear by it. Sail safe. Ant & Cid
SV Impavidus (Ant & Cid Sailing), one last thing if I may; that $15,000 price tag for that Copper Coat job, was way over the Top.
Anyway, Fair Winds..!!
BullDog Jackson Coppercoat costs $1700 for a 40 foot boat...the same as a good quality ablative paint. When you have professionals prepare the hull and apply it, it can get very expensive, but its very easy to do yourself. We just applied it to Brick House...we will see if we followed the directions well enough or not. When Coppercoat doesn’t work, there is most definitely something that went wrong with the application. It’s a much different technique than common ablative paint...in fact it’s not a paint at all and can’t be applied the same way. But Coppercoat provide plenty of diy information on their website...
Some people say you have to clean it less, but we will believe that when we see it...we are pretty sure we will still have to wipe it down once a month. -Rebecca on SV Brick House
9:20- Saw a video from some long-time cruisers who gave a tip: do NOT put the name of your boat on your tender. When thieves see your tender tied up at the dock they will know that (most likely) your boat is not occupied and thus an easy (soft) target...
Yes that's a good tip. Our tender is a Highfield, we call it Horatio. We have transfers waiting for us in Italy to put o. To be honest we hear of more thefts of tenders which are only tied up to docks or boats. We always lock ours. And of course we have an Oscar! Woe betide anyone that tried to take, what he sees as his ride to the beach:-) Sail safe Mike. Ant & Cid
@@SVImpavidus I've had someone pinch the dinghy in Dartmouth (but found it later) and somebody stole the oars while ashore in Roadtown later that same year.
@@johnsherman7289 Yes there are thieves everywhere. We padlock our tender everywhere! Ant.
thanks for the really good informations.... to bad that its nothing say about the ecology aspect. I do know some boat owners who cares more about the environment instead of the price
Thanks for watching. Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.
Silic One is epoxy? Same as the others?
Bruce. Hi Silic one is different as it is silicone based. It has a super slippery surface . A different solution to the same old problem. Hope this helps? Sail Safe Ant & Cid.
Almost six of one and half dozen of the other !🤔
Exactly. It's a lottery! Ant.
SV Impavidus (Ant & Cid Sailing) 👍👌❤️
Can I plz have Oscar??❤❤❤❤😉🤣
He's a happy old sea dog even if he is getting on a bit. He's living a doggy dream with lots of walks on beaches and plenty of cuddles from folks in the marina. Currently laying in the sun while we fit the new Impavidus decals to the boom. Sail Safe. Ant, Cid and the pooch crew.
Even with no protection at all the propeller strut was clean. Ablative bottom paints will someday be illegal everywhere, due to the effect on marine life, like my favorite TBT. As an aside, the Italian cruise ship that sank off Tuscony was amazingly free of marine growth when recovered my inflatable fouled up in a couple of days while used in the waters of Puerto Rico.
And yet the commercial guys can use anything. One might think it's a ploy to get more expensive solutions on the domestic market. If one were paranoid . Sail safe. Ant.
Are you sailors or just marina dwellers??
Dan. We only go into marinas to pick up water or fuel. Or if the weather is predicted 30 knots + and we cannot get into a safe anchorage. We dont have the budget for marina dwelling. We wintered in Almerimar, But are now as we type at anchor just off the French - Italian border. Sail Safe. Ant & Cid.
Thésée is the Son of Égée and Éthra in grek mythology. You write it Theseus in english.
Maxime thats interesting. Dean says Thesee was a French boat. Thesee is French for Thesis. We will pass it on when we see him Tomorrow. Thanks for watching. Sail Safe.
Spoke to Dean today. He asked us to thank you for the input. Its great when we get real feedback and info. Thanks again.
Ablative, every time.
DEFINITELY NOT COPPER COAT
Just wondering why you would say that? We seem to have ours sorted no that its been applied properly. Regards Ant
Coppercoat is CRAP. It just doesn't work.
Well, its not been great for us but there are so many people that we know and have seen first hand that its been a top performer. Be good to hear more detail from you. Can you let us know why you have the opinion you do? Ant & Cid
Ask sailngbritcan what they think
Graeme. As our previous comments we have been in touch with Britican for the last two years. We have the same problems. However when it works it works well. Our sister boat coated the same time as us by a different applicator has no problems at all. Sail safe. Ant & Cid
Thésée means Theseus, a greek mith belived to be the son of Poseidon. The God of the sea.
Sorry about that.
Its a French Boat, Named in France by a French man. Not a Greek 😁👍
do you really need annoying alarm as the soundtrack? Is your thick accent is not enough?
So it annoys idiots and keep them away..