The torque on this bolt is 22 FT LBS!!!! DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN! Also it's good to pick a plug up to have on hand (they are 7 bucks each) when you plan on draining the coolant. If it strips, you'll wish you had one. Also, if this plug strips, you will more than likely need to tap the hole in the block to clean out the threads before putting in the new plug.
I might have a spare hose at work might be able to use to explain in another vid. But you do want to undo the clips at each fitting, that will enable you to pull off and fish out. And the new one when it goes on, just fish in and push into place until it clicks
What size hose is that? In what type of antifreeze do I need in?... I've lost a little bit of antifreeze over the course of the last month with a weeping water pump that I'm getting ready to replace... But over the course of the last month, I have added a universal antifreeze, that is supposedly interchangeable with anyting... And now I'm thinking that that wasn't a good idea... I would almost consider just putting the antifreeze that I kept her right back into the system if I didn't think that it might be a bad idea to drain everything and replace it all... Any input would be appreciated
@@BeardedSeabee82 thanks..got started on the water pump tonight...what's wierd is, pulled out petcock/plug on bottom of radiator..nothing came out..overflow had plenty in it...when I cracked old pump bolts, she drained out 12 gallons
@@BeardedSeabee82 man, I don't think my block had that drain plug on the side. There was something that looked like it could have been it, but it had some JB weld or something around it... So I think maybe somebody messed it up somewhere along the way... I got zero drops out of the radiator... The job is done now, and it's all good
Hi I have 2006 Colombia and wanna clean coolant reservoir ... so I took it off and disconnect the hoses( big one in the bottom and 2 medium size in the side and one small in the back for over flow) and decide to flush water since I am cleaning that reservoir so I stick water hose in the big hose which I believe feeding the engine and let it come out from the other 2 hoses (engine is off) then put back everything and start feeding coolant in reservoir... after done start up the truck it will run for minute or so and turn off ... do you know what it could be ? I put OEM reservoir cap thanks
It's not necessary to drain the coolant to replace that hose. Go to the plumbing section at your local hardware store and get yourself some drain plugs. Cork or rubber both work great. Remove one end of the hole and plug the hole while you begin intalling the new one. When you're done With one side, do the other one and you are done. If it takes you a 1/2 hour it took you too long. Very little mess this way.
Thank you Clay! and yeah, had been eyeballing that light for several months, finally picked it up few weeks ago, the 100-700 lumens sure puts some power behind it. Thank you as always for watching clay!
Not off top of my head but there are a couple of different variations for it and depends if 13 or 15 and the esn. Dealership should be able to get for you
I got 2015 Cascadia, drain plug is extremely difficult to open, I'm not sure but I think mine were never touched since manufactured, and when I did eventually open it, after I did drain coolant, I tightened plug back into a place, but coolant still pouring from there. Did I miss something while I was doing that? Or something stocked between engine block and drain plug?
Hey there. Well no, you didnt miss something we have one of our units where the drain plug is same way. Couple of weeks ago had to change air compressor on that one (even though broke coola t line few months before and drained then too) and is still same way. Had to use my long 1/2" ratchet to get it tightened down all the way. The other few dd's we ha e are fairly easy, but that one, as in case with yours is hard as hell. I dont know if it is from fitting itself or the block to be honest. If there are any other questions you have on issue feel free to ask
I haven't pulled that drain plug completely out, it would not allow me to do it, because of hardness to turn it around. So I twisted off probably 1.1/2 turns until it stucked, and that I tightened back and forth a few times. But it didn't solve the problem. So I want to go to auto parts store tomorrow to get some rust release liquid and spray around for a few minutes, see what it does. But I will follow your advice to get a bigger wrench and tighten more. Thanks for your response!
Yeah it can be a pain in rear for sure, the truck i spoke of i hate doing it to since it feels like you are about to bust it off by time it starts to almost get tight enough to seal up
The aluminum plug usually gets stripped of it threads by some mechanic that doesn't know what he's doing. Simply get you a thread chaser M18x1.5 and a new plug. The thread chaser is $9 and the plug is $8 ...
Ubder parts pro is called screw plug. Pt#A6019970430 for this particular unit. BOL finds it under major component, engine, housing, cylinder crankcase.
As for bleeder, the engine drain and radiator drain are only.2.drains i know of. We use a vacuum style pump to refill the cooling system on tractors so we dont really worry about that per say. Other option on funnel fill method is to massage coolant elbows and fill, then when filled do low slow idle till engine heats up all way to help prevent cavitation in egr cooler, but vacuum is onw of best waya.
torque converter or shift solenoids? I wouldnt mind some of that warm weather. Too bad it didnt happen out in eastern iowa by my folks place, coulda had er done lickity split out there. Hopin there is a decent shop out there that can cut ya decent deal on that at least.
lol yup, one of the very few stations that comes in on that radio in shop when doors are closed is the country station, but that station has habbit of playing the same 20 songs a day, every day, literally at almost same time each day, so i usually have my headphones in depending on whats going on. thank you for watching and hope that you have a good weekend
Good stuff! Ive had that problem for awhile with those lines and the coolant draining about 5 gallons on the floor lol. Ive heard about that drain but never found it lol. Thanks for the vid!
@@BeardedSeabee82 i did bro, i refilled it with distilled water twice after dropping the original coolant but its still light green the coolant afyer the 3rd drain, thats why i was asking for help on findomg the drain on the block lol. Btw on the 3rd drain i only put 3 gallons of water on empty block and the check engine light and engine shutdown lights came on, the temp gauge only wemt up to 175 so idk if it over heated without gauge letting me know. Gave me a good scare when i saw that light but i know the temp. Didnt go past 175 so it must not have overheated
12.7 would usually just pull lower rad hod hose and was able to do full drain on those. As far as burp, i use a vacuum filler which does better job, but on 60 series can massage upper rad hose in between buckets and run for 10 mins at idle then stop and massage upper rad hose again
What is the torque on that plug? I did this about two weeks ago, and now I'm noticing coolant coming from this port after tightening as much as I safely feel it should be.
exact torque I dont know. We go by feel here in shop, however there is 1 particular unit that the plug on has always been stubborn, both unscrewing and tightening back up that we have to tighten to point it feels as if will almost break off, it is a pain in the ass. recommend calling a detroit/freightliner shop that you are familiar with that can look it up on ddcsn, or also, there is 1-800-FTL-Help that you can call for that particular service information. Wish I had an exact number for you, but i honeslty dont., Sorry.
Just to let y'all know... the threads on that drain plug for the block like to break off and stay in the block. Its recommended to not use it and put a hose on one of the three piece coolant hose coming from the block.
Many dealers have quit using the stock metal p-clamps. I don’t have a part # but my dealer gave me rubber coated p-clamps. It’s suppose to keep the plastic line from rubbing on the metal clamp. I will find out someday how long it lasts.
We keep the rubber coated ones in stock in shop supply. Daimler has had update for then where they use the christmas trees and zip tie. But on occasion we still get the metal one.
lol yup pretty much, once epa started telling businesses how they "needed" to build engines everything went to shit regardless what you called them lol. Thanks for watching Nik!
The torque on this bolt is 22 FT LBS!!!! DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN! Also it's good to pick a plug up to have on hand (they are 7 bucks each) when you plan on draining the coolant. If it strips, you'll wish you had one. Also, if this plug strips, you will more than likely need to tap the hole in the block to clean out the threads before putting in the new plug.
truck that was issue with finally had to redo the other day, re-tapping was lil pain, but after i got it done and new plug in was sooo much better!
@@BeardedSeabee82 I know mine is awesome. Once I break the torque, I can turn it with the connected drain hose. Much, Much nicer!
What size tap you use
What size hose is the one we need. For that drainThank you..
If i remember correctly 1/2" i.d. thanks for watching
Great video can you let us know the size of hose you used to drain liquid?
I believe off top of my head it is a 1/2 id hose. Thank you for watching
Could you please explain How to replace the leaking coolant hose that you pointed out? (Coolant crossover hose)
I might have a spare hose at work might be able to use to explain in another vid. But you do want to undo the clips at each fitting, that will enable you to pull off and fish out. And the new one when it goes on, just fish in and push into place until it clicks
@@BeardedSeabee82
Will do, Thank you for explaining.
What size hose is that? In what type of antifreeze do I need in?... I've lost a little bit of antifreeze over the course of the last month with a weeping water pump that I'm getting ready to replace... But over the course of the last month, I have added a universal antifreeze, that is supposedly interchangeable with anyting... And now I'm thinking that that wasn't a good idea... I would almost consider just putting the antifreeze that I kept her right back into the system if I didn't think that it might be a bad idea to drain everything and replace it all... Any input would be appreciated
Red elc coolant, hose i believe if i recall is like a 5/8
Purple alliance antifreeze and red elc is interchangeable, but if you stuck yellow or green in, bes to just start new
@@BeardedSeabee82 thanks..got started on the water pump tonight...what's wierd is, pulled out petcock/plug on bottom of radiator..nothing came out..overflow had plenty in it...when I cracked old pump bolts, she drained out 12 gallons
1/2 hos3 off the block drain. Block drain empties engine at lowest point of engine. Rafiator you usually only get about a gallon out of
@@BeardedSeabee82 man, I don't think my block had that drain plug on the side. There was something that looked like it could have been it, but it had some JB weld or something around it... So I think maybe somebody messed it up somewhere along the way... I got zero drops out of the radiator... The job is done now, and it's all good
Do i need to start the truck for a while first?
If you plan on doing full flush and want to get engine warm before hand you can. But do not need to have engine running to drain
Hi I have 2006 Colombia and wanna clean coolant reservoir ... so I took it off and disconnect the hoses( big one in the bottom and 2 medium size in the side and one small in the back for over flow) and decide to flush water since I am cleaning that reservoir so I stick water hose in the big hose which I believe feeding the engine and let it come out from the other 2 hoses (engine is off) then put back everything and start feeding coolant in reservoir... after done start up the truck it will run for minute or so and turn off ... do you know what it could be ? I put OEM reservoir cap thanks
Any check engine lights?
It's not necessary to drain the coolant to replace that hose. Go to the plumbing section at your local hardware store and get yourself some drain plugs. Cork or rubber both work great. Remove one end of the hole and plug the hole while you begin intalling the new one. When you're done With one side, do the other one and you are done. If it takes you a 1/2 hour it took you too long. Very little mess this way.
You aren't very mechanically bright when it comes to semi trucks with detroit engines are you?
Oh ya.. draining the big rig..Looks like a fun day
Always lol. Hope you had a good weekend bud!
Great tip ! That’s was a really nice light you had there too !
Thank you Clay! and yeah, had been eyeballing that light for several months, finally picked it up few weeks ago, the 100-700 lumens sure puts some power behind it. Thank you as always for watching clay!
Do you happen to have the part number for that line that goes to the filter housing?
Not off top of my head but there are a couple of different variations for it and depends if 13 or 15 and the esn. Dealership should be able to get for you
@@BeardedSeabee82
Thanks man I was able to get it at the dealership
Hey, what size hose did you use to drain the coolant? I can't find a quick disconnect.
It was 1/2" i believe I.D.
I got 2015 Cascadia, drain plug is extremely difficult to open, I'm not sure but I think mine were never touched since manufactured, and when I did eventually open it, after I did drain coolant, I tightened plug back into a place, but coolant still pouring from there.
Did I miss something while I was doing that? Or something stocked between engine block and drain plug?
Hey there. Well no, you didnt miss something we have one of our units where the drain plug is same way. Couple of weeks ago had to change air compressor on that one (even though broke coola t line few months before and drained then too) and is still same way. Had to use my long 1/2" ratchet to get it tightened down all the way. The other few dd's we ha e are fairly easy, but that one, as in case with yours is hard as hell. I dont know if it is from fitting itself or the block to be honest. If there are any other questions you have on issue feel free to ask
I haven't pulled that drain plug completely out, it would not allow me to do it, because of hardness to turn it around. So I twisted off probably 1.1/2 turns until it stucked, and that I tightened back and forth a few times. But it didn't solve the problem. So I want to go to auto parts store tomorrow to get some rust release liquid and spray around for a few minutes, see what it does. But I will follow your advice to get a bigger wrench and tighten more. Thanks for your response!
Yeah it can be a pain in rear for sure, the truck i spoke of i hate doing it to since it feels like you are about to bust it off by time it starts to almost get tight enough to seal up
The aluminum plug usually gets stripped of it threads by some mechanic that doesn't know what he's doing. Simply get you a thread chaser M18x1.5 and a new plug. The thread chaser is $9 and the plug is $8 ...
@@carbombtorres1761 the plug comes from the dealer, where do I get the chaser?
Quick question i have the same problem on mine same hose is leaking wats the name of the part so i can go buy a new one
Ubder parts pro is called screw plug. Pt#A6019970430 for this particular unit. BOL finds it under major component, engine, housing, cylinder crankcase.
What is the part number on this hard coolant line? I have had local parts dealers keep coming up short! Thanks in advance
Filter housing to block to compressor?
And is itone with a coolant filter housing? Not the new ones without? And dd13 or dd15? There is difference
@@BeardedSeabee82 This only runs from block to filter housing, 2 connection points.
Shoot me an email beardedseabee82@gmail.com I think I know which one you are talking about can send you pic when i get to work
what size is the hose that connects to the drain plug?
Off top of my head i think 5/8", i will have to double check when i go to work monday
1/2" hose
Is there a bleeder valve to remove air from the line ?
As for bleeder, the engine drain and radiator drain are only.2.drains i know of. We use a vacuum style pump to refill the cooling system on tractors so we dont really worry about that per say. Other option on funnel fill method is to massage coolant elbows and fill, then when filled do low slow idle till engine heats up all way to help prevent cavitation in egr cooler, but vacuum is onw of best waya.
Great video as always
Thank you Mark!
Hey. Wanna make a flight to Georgia and replace the front pump in my transmission? Lol. Great how to video brother. 😀👍
torque converter or shift solenoids? I wouldnt mind some of that warm weather. Too bad it didnt happen out in eastern iowa by my folks place, coulda had er done lickity split out there. Hopin there is a decent shop out there that can cut ya decent deal on that at least.
Bearded Seabee82 beats me. My cousin said it sounds like the pump. But he’s too high class to work on my stuff. He didn’t use to be that way.
what size is that hose that your using for draining it ?
I think 1/2... will double check in am and let ya know
ok
1/2" hose
½" ID or OD hose?
How many gallons of coolant do you need to refill it?
+Anthony Hall it is about 10 ish out of the side port. Couple gals more if you also drain rest of radiator
Lil oh George straight in the background
lol yup, one of the very few stations that comes in on that radio in shop when doors are closed is the country station, but that station has habbit of playing the same 20 songs a day, every day, literally at almost same time each day, so i usually have my headphones in depending on whats going on. thank you for watching and hope that you have a good weekend
Good stuff! Ive had that problem for awhile with those lines and the coolant draining about 5 gallons on the floor lol. Ive heard about that drain but never found it lol. Thanks for the vid!
Got a 2019 cascadia what is the best coolant to add?
Shouldve come from factory with the alliance premix 50/50 purple. Red 50/50 should still be ok on it to mix
@@BeardedSeabee82 thanks for the reply I appreciate it
@@BeardedSeabee82 hey by any chance you know where this drain plug is on the 12.7 60 series on a freightliner classic?
12.7, pop the bottom rad hose
@@BeardedSeabee82 i did bro, i refilled it with distilled water twice after dropping the original coolant but its still light green the coolant afyer the 3rd drain, thats why i was asking for help on findomg the drain on the block lol. Btw on the 3rd drain i only put 3 gallons of water on empty block and the check engine light and engine shutdown lights came on, the temp gauge only wemt up to 175 so idk if it over heated without gauge letting me know. Gave me a good scare when i saw that light but i know the temp. Didnt go past 175 so it must not have overheated
Quick and easy
Thanks for the video
+Dave Tumbleson Thankyou for watching!
What size hose is that you are using sir
Peice of 1/2" airhose
Ty very much
Is the coolant on these trucks purple or red?
Red as comes from factory and we use red. I know freightliner after market parts has a purple that is compatable
Any footage on the fill and purge/burp? I've got a 99 60 series 12.7. Any info would be great. Thanks
12.7 would usually just pull lower rad hod hose and was able to do full drain on those. As far as burp, i use a vacuum filler which does better job, but on 60 series can massage upper rad hose in between buckets and run for 10 mins at idle then stop and massage upper rad hose again
I'm not gonna clean up that floor
LOL! we have pressure wash to make sure gets clean lol. Thanks for watching kaylynn, hope you and mila are trying to stay warm inside
I have no clue what you're talking about but I'm slowly learing. Thanks
+AOK Foraging and Adventures lmao, thats why you have friends that are mechanics lol. Thanks for watching!
What is the torque on that plug? I did this about two weeks ago, and now I'm noticing coolant coming from this port after tightening as much as I safely feel it should be.
exact torque I dont know. We go by feel here in shop, however there is 1 particular unit that the plug on has always been stubborn, both unscrewing and tightening back up that we have to tighten to point it feels as if will almost break off, it is a pain in the ass. recommend calling a detroit/freightliner shop that you are familiar with that can look it up on ddcsn, or also, there is 1-800-FTL-Help that you can call for that particular service information. Wish I had an exact number for you, but i honeslty dont., Sorry.
@@BeardedSeabee82 I called Detroit, they told me it was 22ft lbs. Thanks man! 🤟🏻
Just to let y'all know... the threads on that drain plug for the block like to break off and stay in the block. Its recommended to not use it and put a hose on one of the three piece coolant hose coming from the block.
Many dealers have quit using the stock metal p-clamps. I don’t have a part # but my dealer gave me rubber coated p-clamps. It’s suppose to keep the plastic line from rubbing on the metal clamp. I will find out someday how long it lasts.
We keep the rubber coated ones in stock in shop supply. Daimler has had update for then where they use the christmas trees and zip tie. But on occasion we still get the metal one.
what we have here is a DD15 13 ahhhhhhhhhh I don't care
lol yup pretty much, once epa started telling businesses how they "needed" to build engines everything went to shit regardless what you called them lol. Thanks for watching Nik!