Very informative video and I really enjoyed your tutorial. This reminds me an old internet when people just wanted to spread the knowledge. Greetings from Poland.
Love the video man. I have done tons of lowers, pistols and full rifles over years in norells but have been so afraid to do stencils. This has given the go ahead to give it a try. Keep up the good work!
Great instructional sir - really appreciate your efforts and knowledge. Any chance I can pick your brain on some technical issues? Doing a lot of testing and not getting the results I want. Please let me know - Ted
I late to the party here. I'm doing a couple old '70's kits. Do you have an opinion about the judicious use of a heat gun to keep the parts warmed while applying the coats?
Just be careful not to get too close with the heat gun and keep it on low. Move it quickly back and forth so as not to blister any coating that has already been applied. Just needs to be warm, not real hot.
Some do seem to be more textured than others. You can try going a little heavier with the last coat or two or spray it without warming the part. the cooler and heavier, the more glossy the piece will be. I noticed the red I sprayed in the video had more texture than the blue or white. you could hit it with some very fine 1000 or 1500 grit and go light on the pressure to knock some of the texture down if you don't like it.
Really enjoyed your video, and I'm glad I found your channel. That shit at the end with the mag changing colors from the heat was awesome! I've not seen anyone else doing this. And I agree that a handguard on an AR, or even better the slide on a Glock, would be a really interesting, unique look! And I don't think it would take very many rounds to start changing either! But especially in the case of the Glock slide, I think just a couple of magazines out of my 10mm Glock 40 would have the desired effect! Thank you for sharing! I am now a subscriber, and I will be sharing your video with not only my friends and family, but also people I associate with on Reddit Glock, Reddit P80, Reddit gunsmithing, and every other occasion it may come up. Again really cool Sir, and very inspiring!
Thank you! I'm not an every week poster like some, and may go a month or so in between, but I try to keep it interesting. I'm glad you enjoyed the vid.
Awesome video, thank you for the thorough explanation. By chance have you done any bushmaster? I'm asking if you know the color that matches that manufacturer the closest.
Thanks, glad you liked it. Sorry, I haven't done a bushmaster, but If you go to molyresin.com they have a customer projects gallery that might have one on there.
@@Hellrazer80 Very bright lights and holding it at an angle. I usually don't bother coating anodizing unless I'm changing the color. If it's something that was painted black, you'll want to sand blast the old paint off since the reducers in the Moly resin might react with it.
@@pewsandbrews I recently bought an upper that looks to be a semi gloss dark black and looks horrible on the bushmaster lower. I'm hoping to just coat the upper.
@@Hellrazer80 i do alot in the colt flat black grey and add in just a touch of reg black gives a great coat in between a parkerized look and that stock flatter black on alot of the stock paint jobs
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I just picked up that same $10 airbrush from Harbor Freight and a bottle of Norrell's for an XM177E2 clone I'm doing that needs to be gray. However, your video is the best I've seen so far that shows the actual process. Do you have any tips for prep other than soaking in acetone? Everything I've read says to degrease with carb cleaner rather than acetone. Thoughts/tips? Thanks again!
I would say do not use carb cleaner.....brake cleaner leaves no residue, but carb cleaner does. If it's a new gun, it probably doesn't have muck oil on it, but a used gun i would soak. Those cheap aluminum disposable roasting pans work great for soaking, and a gallon of acetone isn't all that expensive. Prep is an important step.
@@pewsandbrews so, dumb question: now that I’ve gotten the acetone and I’ve let the various pieces that will get sprayed soak, do I need to scrub them with anything or is letting them soak in the acetone for a bit and then letting them hang until dry good enough?
You might try going a little heavier with the last coat or two and having the part cooler. I had it happen when I was coating super light on a real hot part. The cooler the part, the glossier and smoother it will get.
@@pewsandbrews Thanks, I was going pretty light and using a heat gun on low to warm the part up, so no real regulation of temperature. I used flat black, so I would like to keep it flat. How did you correct the rough areas?
It was a cheap one off Amazon , no name on the container. If you were to do a whole slide or forend I'd probably get a known name brand, even though they all probably come from the same factory.
@@josephanderson4470 Dyna-Glo DGU505BAE-D 30" This is the one I got and it's been working fine. Just get a better thermometer for it. I have an external digital I use.
Very useful for those imaginary parts that just don''t seem to ship these days. What practice paint do you recommend for us less than artistic sprayers? It looks to have properties like laquer.
It's not thick at all, so any thinned out airbrush paint should work for practice. Also Bransoncerekote, and weaponstencils have some really cool stencils if there's a pattern you're looking for...pretty cheap too. I should add the links to the description since I used them in the vid.
Did some testing and so far I'm happy with the appearance but.......the finish doesn't appear to be that durable. I plan to do an entire rifle chassis black with lightning bolt stencils but really concerned that the finished product will not handle scuffs and bumps, particularly hard edges and there are many! I will sand blast (including softening hard edges), degrease, acetone soak and burn off before coating all the parts. What do you reccomend doing to ensure that the finish cures out as hard as it is advertised to be?
I actually did a rifle in exactly that pattern last year. What you plan to do is perfect for the prep work. Make sure the temp is at least 300 deg, but don't go crazy and bake it at 400...try running at 320/330. It's possible your oven temp is off a few degrees, or there is a "cooler" spot in the oven. Like any coating it's not impervious to scuffing and chipping depending on the level of abuse. You may want to spray a coat or two on just the edges at first, then continue as normal for the rest of the job. Edges tend to get undercoated unless you pay special attention to them and many times in the processes of coating you focus on the very visible flat areas and the edges get overlooked.
@@pewsandbrews Great and thanks so much. Clearly you have a ton of experience and a great set-up so what is your reason for going with moly resin over cerekote? It seems that cerekote could be done in a home shop with similar equipment....just curious.
@@tedlodigensky6904 pretty much for the reasons I lay out in the video. I have done cerekote, but for just a range gun that won't see a lot of abuse, moly is easier and quicker.
just finished my C7A2 upper and lower in a mix of colt grey and colt black and came out good for my first time
Nice!
Very informative video and I really enjoyed your tutorial. This reminds me an old internet when people just wanted to spread the knowledge. Greetings from Poland.
dziękuję, and you're right....too much junk on the internet these days.
Awesome under-appreciated video! Great information keep up the great work!!
Thank you! glad you liked it.
Love the video man. I have done tons of lowers, pistols and full rifles over years in norells but have been so afraid to do stencils. This has given the go ahead to give it a try. Keep up the good work!
Thanks...glad you liked it!
Excellent video! Just ordered some flat black colt SOCOM and love that I can do my AR and AKs in the same finish
Great instructional sir - really appreciate your efforts and knowledge. Any chance I can pick your brain on some technical issues? Doing a lot of testing and not getting the results I want. Please let me know - Ted
pick away
I late to the party here. I'm doing a couple old '70's kits. Do you have an opinion about the judicious use of a heat gun to keep the parts warmed while applying the coats?
If you watch my 50 beowulf build video, I show some close ups of that gun which was done using just a heat gun between coats.....turned out perfect.
Just be careful not to get too close with the heat gun and keep it on low. Move it quickly back and forth so as not to blister any coating that has already been applied. Just needs to be warm, not real hot.
Hello; The smoker worked great, Colt grey came out better than expected, but seemed to have a textured finish to it. Is that normal?
Some do seem to be more textured than others. You can try going a little heavier with the last coat or two or spray it without warming the part. the cooler and heavier, the more glossy the piece will be. I noticed the red I sprayed in the video had more texture than the blue or white. you could hit it with some very fine 1000 or 1500 grit and go light on the pressure to knock some of the texture down if you don't like it.
@@pewsandbrews Thank you.
@@josephanderson4470 no problem, just glad to help a fellow DIYer
Thanks!
Question is how will it hold up on suppressor? High heat resistant I wonder?
not sure, I would think it would take 400 or 500, but past that I have no idea
Really enjoyed your video, and I'm glad I found your channel. That shit at the end with the mag changing colors from the heat was awesome! I've not seen anyone else doing this. And I agree that a handguard on an AR, or even better the slide on a Glock, would be a really interesting, unique look! And I don't think it would take very many rounds to start changing either! But especially in the case of the Glock slide, I think just a couple of magazines out of my 10mm Glock 40 would have the desired effect!
Thank you for sharing! I am now a subscriber, and I will be sharing your video with not only my friends and family, but also people I associate with on Reddit Glock, Reddit P80, Reddit gunsmithing, and every other occasion it may come up. Again really cool Sir, and very inspiring!
Thank you! I'm not an every week poster like some, and may go a month or so in between, but I try to keep it interesting. I'm glad you enjoyed the vid.
Awesome video, thank you for the thorough explanation.
By chance have you done any bushmaster? I'm asking if you know the color that matches that manufacturer the closest.
Thanks, glad you liked it. Sorry, I haven't done a bushmaster, but If you go to molyresin.com they have a customer projects gallery that might have one on there.
@@pewsandbrews what's your recommendation for an even coat black on black?
@@Hellrazer80 Very bright lights and holding it at an angle. I usually don't bother coating anodizing unless I'm changing the color. If it's something that was painted black, you'll want to sand blast the old paint off since the reducers in the Moly resin might react with it.
@@pewsandbrews I recently bought an upper that looks to be a semi gloss dark black and looks horrible on the bushmaster lower. I'm hoping to just coat the upper.
@@Hellrazer80 i do alot in the colt flat black grey and add in just a touch of reg black gives a great coat in between a parkerized look and that stock flatter black on alot of the stock paint jobs
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I just picked up that same $10 airbrush from Harbor Freight and a bottle of Norrell's for an XM177E2 clone I'm doing that needs to be gray. However, your video is the best I've seen so far that shows the actual process. Do you have any tips for prep other than soaking in acetone? Everything I've read says to degrease with carb cleaner rather than acetone. Thoughts/tips? Thanks again!
I would say do not use carb cleaner.....brake cleaner leaves no residue, but carb cleaner does. If it's a new gun, it probably doesn't have muck oil on it, but a used gun i would soak. Those cheap aluminum disposable roasting pans work great for soaking, and a gallon of acetone isn't all that expensive. Prep is an important step.
If you have any other questions about the process, feel free to hit me up, I'll try to get back to you as soon as I can.
@@pewsandbrews so, dumb question: now that I’ve gotten the acetone and I’ve let the various pieces that will get sprayed soak, do I need to scrub them with anything or is letting them soak in the acetone for a bit and then letting them hang until dry good enough?
@@Paulie771 just letting them dry will be fine. Now that they're soaked, use gloves when you handle them.
@@pewsandbrews Thanks for the advice! I'll be sure to reply with a pic of the build once I get it all done.
Have you had any problem with the coating feeling rough after applying. Trying to figure out what I'm doing wrong.
You might try going a little heavier with the last coat or two and having the part cooler. I had it happen when I was coating super light on a real hot part. The cooler the part, the glossier and smoother it will get.
@@pewsandbrews Thanks, I was going pretty light and using a heat gun on low to warm the part up, so no real regulation of temperature. I used flat black, so I would like to keep it flat. How did you correct the rough areas?
@@Hellrazer80 no way to really correct it. Maybe some very light passes with 1000 or 1500 grit sandpaper.
@@pewsandbrews I'm gonna try that, if not, back to the blaster.
the color change is a neat idea what brand of thermo pigment did you use?
It was a cheap one off Amazon , no name on the container. If you were to do a whole slide or forend I'd probably get a known name brand, even though they all probably come from the same factory.
Do you have any issues keeping the temp above 300 with your Dyna Glo?
Nope, it gets to 400 if I want. There are a couple different models, some may not.
Which model would you recommend? Thank you!
@@josephanderson4470 Dyna-Glo DGU505BAE-D 30" This is the one I got and it's been working fine. Just get a better thermometer for it. I have an external digital I use.
@@pewsandbrews Thank you for all your help.
Very useful for those imaginary parts that just don''t seem to ship these days.
What practice paint do you recommend for us less than artistic sprayers? It looks to have properties like laquer.
It's not thick at all, so any thinned out airbrush paint should work for practice. Also Bransoncerekote, and weaponstencils have some really cool stencils if there's a pattern you're looking for...pretty cheap too. I should add the links to the description since I used them in the vid.
Did some testing and so far I'm happy with the appearance but.......the finish doesn't appear to be that durable. I plan to do an entire rifle chassis black with lightning bolt stencils but really concerned that the finished product will not handle scuffs and bumps, particularly hard edges and there are many! I will sand blast (including softening hard edges), degrease, acetone soak and burn off before coating all the parts. What do you reccomend doing to ensure that the finish cures out as hard as it is advertised to be?
I actually did a rifle in exactly that pattern last year. What you plan to do is perfect for the prep work. Make sure the temp is at least 300 deg, but don't go crazy and bake it at 400...try running at 320/330. It's possible your oven temp is off a few degrees, or there is a "cooler" spot in the oven. Like any coating it's not impervious to scuffing and chipping depending on the level of abuse. You may want to spray a coat or two on just the edges at first, then continue as normal for the rest of the job. Edges tend to get undercoated unless you pay special attention to them and many times in the processes of coating you focus on the very visible flat areas and the edges get overlooked.
@@pewsandbrews Great and thanks so much. Clearly you have a ton of experience and a great set-up so what is your reason for going with moly resin over cerekote? It seems that cerekote could be done in a home shop with similar equipment....just curious.
@@tedlodigensky6904 pretty much for the reasons I lay out in the video. I have done cerekote, but for just a range gun that won't see a lot of abuse, moly is easier and quicker.
Outstanding video man👍
Thanks!