Can feel your love for your 05 Cummins and for quality "good sense" mechanics! Thanks for all that you do, keep up the great videos! Just had to do injectors on mine and wanted to do this job while in there. I also use your "injector replacement" video as my main go to for that job!!
Hey thanks Zach, if you email me at the address shown at the end of the video, I can send you the detailed instructions for both the injectors and the head studs. Torque specs and sequence, etc. Much more detail than in the videos. Good luck to you, Greg
I too have an 05 Cummins 3500 dually. Greg, you are an excellent teacher in explaining mechanical procedures. You are right about other videos being incomplete and rushed through. Thank you for doing a stellar job in this video. I will search for your video on replacing injectors. That's next.
I just used ARP studs in my subaru WRX rebuild and the instruction outlined the lubing of washers on top only and dry/clean at washer to head exactly as you said- appears they updated the literature. The grooving of an old head bolt to ream the holes works like a charm; my grandfather taught me that one
Thank you so much for sharing. I am planning on doing the same to my 04.5 - the little details you shared with the ARP tech is a big bonus. Thanks again!
thank you for sharing. i’m wondering what’s the mileage on the truck when you do this. mine is little high on mileage(154,000 miles) nothing is wrong with it yet. thinking about doing this but don’t know replacement of head gasket is necessary. thank you in advance.
Great video! Plan on doing this upgrade soon…one thing I noticed is instead of lubing the top of the washer, you can put them on totally clean , and just lube the bottom if the nut…serves the same purpose . Did you end of making a thread chaser with an old bolt? Or just blow out the threads? Thx BG
Is it safe to gamble on your existing head gasket? I personally would hate to have to do a timing job because I know I’ll screw it up and loose patience
From all the forums I've been on and even other videos I've seen the torque sequence with the 1 by 1 method is supposed to be, Remove old bolt, install new stud, Torque to 50' lbs, wait a sec, torque same stud to 100' lbs, move on to next stud. After all stock bolts are removed and replaced with new studs and torqued to 100 lbs (stock torque) you go through and torque them all again to about 115' lbs. Then you go through them all again and torque them in about 15 lb sequences until you get to whatever your final torque number is. The point of the 1 by 1 method is to keep EVEN pressure across the head. However taking 1 at a time out and torquing it to 125' while the stock head bolts are still only torqued to 100 lbs seems more risky.. It even says in the glacier Diesel ARP head stud install instructions: ""In the next series of steps you will be replacing one bolt at a time with a new ARP Head Stud and bringing the new stud back to stock torque. Do not increase torque levels at this time. Do not attempt to replace all bolts at one time. Your goal is to maintain torque on the cylinder head until all stock bolts have been replaced with ARP studs one at a time". Just thought I'd give you and others a heads up.
sneek24 Hey thanks for the heads up. At the time I did this I called the ARP technicians and they cautioned against any other sequence than what I described in the video. I have detailed notes and step by steps for anyone who will email me. Those instructions include the comments from ARP. The method you note makes really good sense to me. I have found that “the only thing constant is change” so it wouldn’t surprise me if ARP’s research has yielded an improved approach. Thanks for the heads up!
Excellent video Greg! Thank you!! Does temperature affect torque values when installing head studs? eg. having a warm block before starting the process or should the block be at ambient temperature?
Hi ya Roy. Gee I have no idea. Perhaps someone here will know. You could also Google "Cummins Diesel Forums" or Dodge Diesel Forums" and ping some of the folks there. They have some very knowledgable folks on the forums that probably have some insight on that.
I'm needing to put in a long block in my 2005 Cummins with 6 speed NV5600. I'd like to add 50-100 hp but keep it reliable. Do you have a list of upgrades to accomplish this? Love your thorough explanations of how and why.
Gee it’s great to hear from you Andrew. Time rolls on, but friends remain. Thanks for taking the time to ping me. Happy New Year to you and yours. Greg
Don’t worry about the studs or bolts, (closest to push rods) coming out with oil on them. That is normal. My 6.7 had oil on all the studs closest to the push rods. Rest were dry or had slight film of oil on them from assembly.
@@gpwrinkled Greg was there any problem with the long stud AT #19 or the short AT #23, 24, 20? i was also told that the lower cover at the #20 the lower cover had to be machined out to accommodate the nut and washer, how did you do it?
@@rexalexander8732 I am not sure what you mean by 'any problem' with the long stud at 19 or the others you mention. There are 6 studs that are longer than the others and they must be installed along the exhaust manifold side of the head at positions 3, 6, 11, 14, 19, and 22. The nut and washer for the stud at position #24 will interfere with the rocker box, also called the lower rocker cover, unless you remove material as shown in diagrams in the instructions that come with the ARP studs. I removed that material with a drill press. I did the removal after I had installed all the head studs. I lowered a large diameter drill bit through the hole in the drill press table, secured it there, and then used the drill bit as an end mill which means I pulled the rocker box against the side of the drill bit, with the rocker box flat on the drill press table. I removed a little at a time and tested the fit on the head, ensuring I didn't have interference with the installed Nut. Using the drill press ensured that 1) I could take a little off at a time in a controlled way (rather than with a hand held drill or dremel), and 2) with the drill press table being square with the bit, it ensured I removed material square with the rocker box. Note where the rubber seal groove is on the bottom of the rocker box and be sure you don't remove so much material that you eat into that seal crevice. Hope that helps. If you email me I can send you the head stud diagram and instructions from ARP which shows the head stud numbers and locations and the graphic of material removal off the rocker box.
Had a issue today where bolt 14 bottoms out about a half inch earlier then the rest in that row should I use a tap to clean the threads or take the head back off and use a old bolt and grind it down?
Gee that’s a bummer. A tap can remove metal which we don’t want. The thread chaser recommended and sold by ARP is not a tap, per my conversation with them, because it is designed to only remove debris from within the threads rather than cutting metal as a tap would. Unfortunately Their tool is not long enough to reach through the head to the bottom of the hole. If it were me I would first take two old bolts, cut the head (and the correct amount of the shaft) off one and weld it to the other, thus creating a long enough bolt to reach the bottom of the hole. Maybe even grind the tip to a bit of a point to help with penetration into the debris and once the debris is broken loose a bit then grind the bolt back flat to ensure threads are cleaned clear to the bottom. Actually, You could build two thread chasers from 4 bolts with one of them being pointed... if that didn’t work then maybe buy ARP’s thread chaser and weld an old bolt to it. I’d try all that before pulling head. Oh, and in the old bolts, take a die grinder and cut 4 equidistant vertical grooves through and perpendicular to the bolt threads, kind of like a tap is done, to allow somewhere for the thread debris you break loose to go.
Hi Alex, It was on the truck when I bought it, but I have had conversations with the Pacbrake folks and have learned that it is an older design from about 2007. They say their current design won't mount right with a Banks Monster Air Horn. I installed the Banks Air Horn and had to do some grinding on the side of it to get clearance to the Pacbrake. I'd suggest calling and talking with the folks at Pacbrake about options.
The Pacbrake is a brand of on board air compressor. The compressed air primarily is used to flip the exhaust brake butterfly closed in the exhaust system to slow the engine and drivetrain without using up your brake pads. Mine also is used to air up after market air bags on the rear axle and provides an air port to fill tires if needed.
Hi Greg can you send me your email question about injectors do they need to be coded to computer I have 2006 got same injectors from dynamite diesel 15%over thx scot
Yes, that’s what happens, and along with the stronger steel of these studs, they are intended to hold the head more securely to the block, thus allowing greater cylinder pressures without blowing a head gasket.
Hi Timothy. I would need your email address to do that. My email address is shown at the end of the video. If you email me I will reply to your email with the instructions.
Anyone else loooove the satisfying sound of the torque wrench click
Another excellent video! You are really gifted a explaining things clear and concise!
Hey thanks Lyle!
Awesome video Greg! Very thorough and complete! Thanks for all your hard work to put this together!!!
Thanks Troy!
You are a detail nut...but so am I. Your detail is much appreciated!
I guess we’re double nutted on this one then. Thx
Can feel your love for your 05 Cummins and for quality "good sense" mechanics! Thanks for all that you do, keep up the great videos! Just had to do injectors on mine and wanted to do this job while in there. I also use your "injector replacement" video as my main go to for that job!!
Hey thanks Zach, if you email me at the address shown at the end of the video, I can send you the detailed instructions for both the injectors and the head studs. Torque specs and sequence, etc. Much more detail than in the videos. Good luck to you, Greg
I too have an 05 Cummins 3500 dually. Greg, you are an excellent teacher in explaining mechanical procedures. You are right about other videos being incomplete and rushed through. Thank you for doing a stellar job in this video. I will search for your video on replacing injectors. That's next.
I just used ARP studs in my subaru WRX rebuild and the instruction outlined the lubing of washers on top only and dry/clean at washer to head exactly as you said- appears they updated the literature. The grooving of an old head bolt to ream the holes works like a charm; my grandfather taught me that one
fantastic video, Finally !, someone to follow with the best details, thank you for this video!
Great video. I am looking at doing head studs on my 2001. All the little details matter when you are doing this kind of work.
Thank you so much for sharing. I am planning on doing the same to my 04.5 - the little details you shared with the ARP tech is a big bonus. Thanks again!
Another excellent detailed video very beneficial for guys like me who owns a 5.9IL cummins Diesel truck. Thank you Sir!
Hey thanks!
Thank you very much for doing this video. It’s extremely helpful.
Brice Moore Thanks!
Great video Greg. Starting on my '06 Mega Cab as soon as it's out of the paint shop. Your stud and injector videos will come in handy.
Glad it helped. Also thanks for emailing a request for the instructions.
@@gpwrinkled and that’s another thing……the instructions were very clear and concise, better than the shop manual! Thank you for sending them.
Nice to see the details. I want to do head studs when I do injectors also. A bit expensive but I think it is worth it.
You are the man thankyou so much!
You do an excellent job "real world" explaining sir.
I wish you would do a video on a tappet cover .
Thank you
Thanks! I’ll keep the tapper cover topic in mind.
Great video! I see you have the Banks Monster Ram. I'm looking to purchase it for my truck but, what is your honest opinion of the product?
Great video. Thanks for sharing. Great content.
Abraham Salcido Thanks!
thank you for sharing. i’m wondering what’s the mileage on the truck when you do this. mine is little high on mileage(154,000 miles) nothing is wrong with it yet. thinking about doing this but don’t know replacement of head gasket is necessary. thank you in advance.
Great video! Plan on doing this upgrade soon…one thing I noticed is instead of lubing the top of the washer, you can put them on totally clean , and just lube the bottom if the nut…serves the same purpose . Did you end of making a thread chaser with an old bolt? Or just blow out the threads? Thx BG
Good tip. Just blew out the bolt holes.
Is it safe to gamble on your existing head gasket? I personally would hate to have to do a timing job because I know I’ll screw it up and loose patience
Thanks for the info
From all the forums I've been on and even other videos I've seen the torque sequence with the 1 by 1 method is supposed to be, Remove old bolt, install new stud, Torque to 50' lbs, wait a sec, torque same stud to 100' lbs, move on to next stud. After all stock bolts are removed and replaced with new studs and torqued to 100 lbs (stock torque) you go through and torque them all again to about 115' lbs. Then you go through them all again and torque them in about 15 lb sequences until you get to whatever your final torque number is. The point of the 1 by 1 method is to keep EVEN pressure across the head. However taking 1 at a time out and torquing it to 125' while the stock head bolts are still only torqued to 100 lbs seems more risky..
It even says in the glacier Diesel ARP head stud install instructions:
""In the next series of steps you will be replacing one bolt at a time with a new ARP Head Stud and bringing the new stud back to stock torque. Do not increase torque levels at this time. Do not attempt to replace all bolts at one time. Your goal is to maintain torque on the cylinder head until all stock bolts have been replaced with ARP studs one at a time".
Just thought I'd give you and others a heads up.
sneek24 Hey thanks for the heads up. At the time I did this I called the ARP technicians and they cautioned against any other sequence than what I described in the video. I have detailed notes and step by steps for anyone who will email me. Those instructions include the comments from ARP. The method you note makes really good sense to me. I have found that “the only thing constant is change” so it wouldn’t surprise me if ARP’s research has yielded an improved approach. Thanks for the heads up!
Great video, very detailed.
thanks for the video =)
I've heard that The Rocker Box has to be ground for one of those what's the big deal about that is that something that's easily done ?
Excellent video Greg! Thank you!! Does temperature affect torque values when installing head studs? eg. having a warm block before starting the process or should the block be at ambient temperature?
Hi ya Roy. Gee I have no idea. Perhaps someone here will know. You could also Google "Cummins Diesel Forums" or Dodge Diesel Forums" and ping some of the folks there. They have some very knowledgable folks on the forums that probably have some insight on that.
This applies to 98-02 as well correct? Same torque values and steps?
I'm needing to put in a long block in my 2005 Cummins with 6 speed
NV5600. I'd like to add 50-100 hp but keep it reliable. Do you have a list of upgrades to accomplish this? Love your thorough explanations of how and why.
Hi Terry and thanks for the email you sent as well. See the reply there.
Same quality videos, just different subject matter. Hope everything is going well for you.
Gee it’s great to hear from you Andrew. Time rolls on, but friends remain. Thanks for taking the time to ping me. Happy New Year to you and yours. Greg
Don’t worry about the studs or bolts, (closest to push rods) coming out with oil on them.
That is normal. My 6.7 had oil on all the studs closest to the push rods. Rest were dry or had slight film of oil on them from assembly.
Ben Dover Thanks!
@@gpwrinkled Greg was there any problem with the long stud AT #19 or the short AT #23, 24, 20?
i was also told that the lower cover at the #20 the lower cover had to be machined out to accommodate the nut and washer,
how did you do it?
@@rexalexander8732 I am not sure what you mean by 'any problem' with the long stud at 19 or the others you mention. There are 6 studs that are longer than the others and they must be installed along the exhaust manifold side of the head at positions 3, 6, 11, 14, 19, and 22. The nut and washer for the stud at position #24 will interfere with the rocker box, also called the lower rocker cover, unless you remove material as shown in diagrams in the instructions that come with the ARP studs. I removed that material with a drill press. I did the removal after I had installed all the head studs. I lowered a large diameter drill bit through the hole in the drill press table, secured it there, and then used the drill bit as an end mill which means I pulled the rocker box against the side of the drill bit, with the rocker box flat on the drill press table. I removed a little at a time and tested the fit on the head, ensuring I didn't have interference with the installed Nut. Using the drill press ensured that 1) I could take a little off at a time in a controlled way (rather than with a hand held drill or dremel), and 2) with the drill press table being square with the bit, it ensured I removed material square with the rocker box. Note where the rubber seal groove is on the bottom of the rocker box and be sure you don't remove so much material that you eat into that seal crevice. Hope that helps. If you email me I can send you the head stud diagram and instructions from ARP which shows the head stud numbers and locations and the graphic of material removal off the rocker box.
great video, thanks I will email you
The only way vs The Goonz ways
Had a issue today where bolt 14 bottoms out about a half inch earlier then the rest in that row should I use a tap to clean the threads or take the head back off and use a old bolt and grind it down?
Gee that’s a bummer. A tap can remove metal which we don’t want. The thread chaser recommended and sold by ARP is not a tap, per my conversation with them, because it is designed to only remove debris from within the threads rather than cutting metal as a tap would. Unfortunately Their tool is not long enough to reach through the head to the bottom of the hole. If it were me I would first take two old bolts, cut the head (and the correct amount of the shaft) off one and weld it to the other, thus creating a long enough bolt to reach the bottom of the hole. Maybe even grind the tip to a bit of a point to help with penetration into the debris and once the debris is broken loose a bit then grind the bolt back flat to ensure threads are cleaned clear to the bottom. Actually, You could build two thread chasers from 4 bolts with one of them being pointed... if that didn’t work then maybe buy ARP’s thread chaser and weld an old bolt to it. I’d try all that before pulling head. Oh, and in the old bolts, take a die grinder and cut 4 equidistant vertical grooves through and perpendicular to the bolt threads, kind of like a tap is done, to allow somewhere for the thread debris you break loose to go.
Where did you get the intake mounted pacbrake?
Hi Alex, It was on the truck when I bought it, but I have had conversations with the Pacbrake folks and have learned that it is an older design from about 2007. They say their current design won't mount right with a Banks Monster Air Horn. I installed the Banks Air Horn and had to do some grinding on the side of it to get clearance to the Pacbrake. I'd suggest calling and talking with the folks at Pacbrake about options.
Hello what is that think next to the monster ram intake that says pacbreak
The Pacbrake is a brand of on board air compressor. The compressed air primarily is used to flip the exhaust brake butterfly closed in the exhaust system to slow the engine and drivetrain without using up your brake pads. Mine also is used to air up after market air bags on the rear axle and provides an air port to fill tires if needed.
Greg Porter thanks
Hi Greg can you send me your email question about injectors do they need to be coded to computer I have 2006 got same injectors from dynamite diesel 15%over thx scot
Hi Sandra, my email is shown at the end of the video. No computer coding changes needed with the injectors.
So the reason for these studs is to get more threads into the block
Yes, that’s what happens, and along with the stronger steel of these studs, they are intended to hold the head more securely to the block, thus allowing greater cylinder pressures without blowing a head gasket.
Please send me email
Hi Timothy. I would need your email address to do that. My email address is shown at the end of the video. If you email me I will reply to your email with the instructions.
waylonclyde@gmail.com
Timothy Dean: I Just sent the instructions. Check your spam folder if it’s not in your inbox
Thank you so much