I know this comment is years late, but if you use a flat style cyl hone it allows you to see if there's any areas of the cylinder that are worn badly. Piston rings often break because as the piston travels up/down the ring is opening/closing (it's getting worked). Those worn areas allow the ring gap to open and then the gap closes when it passes the worn area. It will re-break the ring in no time at all. In cases like that, it's cyl bore time. Hone not gonna work. Traditional flat hone only type that will show the excessively worn areas. There will be low spots the flat hone can't touch and then you'll see them. Ball type hone will not show it. You can also use bore gauge, but flat hone will show the worn areas.
Exact same thing I had to do with my ‘05 the second day of ownership. Drove it home with 4 out of 6 holes having broken rings (got a great buy on it). Also did valve stem seals but otherwise the same. #6 did (does) have a slight score from it’s previous problem, but I’ve rolled 200k miles on it since and the clock shows a total of 486k. I expected the score would give a little oil consumption, but it really doesn’t. Good video, gave me flashbacks
Thanks for the video! During a recent vacation to the Black Hills in South Dakota, my '04 3500 started consuming oil like crazy. We were in the line where you pay to park at the Mount Rushmore monument when I noticed smoke drifting out from under the hood. After finding a place to park, and letting the oil level settle into the pan, it was two quarts low after our trip started (600 miles). Rougher than normal idle, had full power in the hills for climbing, just had white smoke (fuel fog) from the tail pipe on a cold start in the mornings, and of course, used way too much oil. I did the basic blow-by test, and it failed miserably. It looked like a steam engine chugging from the valve cover! We did make it home from our trip without being stuck on the side of the road (Thanks Cummins!), and I'll be pulling the head to see which end of the engine has the problem. More than likely a busted ring, and if so, I'll be doing an in-frame overhaul, including rolling out/in the main bearings. Thanks again for your very detailed and informative videos. They will be saving me thousands of dollars!
I'm almost to the point of stuffing the engine back in my 2005 Dodge Cummins. I had top compression ring broken on cyl 1 and 6, BOTH compression rings broken on cyl 5! Pulled the engine, had the block bored .040 over, new pistons, main bearings, rod bearings, cam bearing, reman complete cylinder head, all OEM parts. Looking forward to getting mine going again and seeing how much better it runs and performs!
Just got my 1st oil sample back (about 3500 miles on rebuild) and looks good. No fuel or coolant and metals are just above normal which I would expect for a motor breaking in.
I wish that I could add a video to your post to prove that it can be done.. It turned out really well, so thank you very much for your video to give me the courage to do my 1st engine
@@Heliarc91 I am happy to say it is still running awesome!! I can't thank this video enough. I was very intimidated I admit, but he did such a good job I was able to do it 1x, no f ups.... Could not be happier
@@ChikzDigit did you notice less blowby after as well? Or any blowby now other than slight even dissipating haze?? Mine, when warm, will intermittently bounce the cap very slightly with little puffs but it won't make it dance or jump. It comes and goes so I assume a cracked ring somewhere. When I did my head gasket the cyl walls were a little slick but had some visible cross hatch
@@Heliarc91 one of my cylinders required a little more clean up than the rest, but even with that, I get no blow by. I was very disappointed to find out that Dodge is the cause of this problem, not Cummins
@@ChikzDigit what do you mean dodge cause? Is it because of the way to little filter system? Or head circulation? Wish you had some videos of before and after the blowby viewing. Mine used to be only some haze without pressure but now it's haze, Choo Choo with enough pressure to slightly lift the upside down cap laying on the fill hole.
REMOVABLE CROSSMEMBER, I cut out the crossmember on mine at each side, then took 2 pair of 1/4" thick steel plates, drilled 4 1/2" holes through each set of plates, for grade 8 bolts, nuts welded to the plates, then cut a 1/2" off each side of the crossmember, slid the plates in, lined up the crossmember with the frame, welded the plates in on each side, now I have a removable crossmember. I also put 3, 1 inch welds on each side, on the edges the bottom and sides so no sliding around from torque or heavy loads, 3 years ago and no problems, grind off the 3 ,1in welds on each side and remove it.
yeah these commonrails cummins love eating valve seats too and then it rips the head up pretty bad i have to replace my head because of a valve seat dropping.. not fun ended up doing a full rebuild but its not to bad as long as you take the time to separate and label all the bolts and stuff that way its super fast putting it back together and in frame wasnt to bad like he had trouble with the oil pan thats about the worst of it.. other than that just make sure your area is covered or clean i bought a roll of plastic and just covered the inside of the engine bay with it so i didnt contaminate anything when putting it back together and it make finding dropped tools etc easier haha
Wow, where was this video a month ago! 315k on my 2wd 06, ran like a dream but leaked and smoked. Major blowby, it would blow the cap completely off. I'm still in the process of doing mine. Just got the oil pan off yesterday. Rack and pinion was in the way. Mine is on a slope so I didn't want to try jacking the motor up too high. Great job with lots of tips and tricks.
Got the pistons out last week. #1 and #4 rings were broke. I flex honed all of them. #1 has a prominent ridge that I think I'll use the 100 grit 3 leg to take it down some and hit with the 240 grit flex hone to get my cross hatching. The ridge is 1" horizontal from the top. Not sure how that happened but I hope I can smooth it out. I figure it will be better to have a wider piston gap spread out 3 different ways (120° gap) than the ridge.
Lol you must be the lot boy if you think this was a good job. Zero measuring, re used pistons, blindly ran a hone down and then zero measuring after to check runout or clearance. No way you build engines at cummins you would get fired to doing this crap
Set the cap on the hole and see if it dances, that's the quick test, the visible vapors really don't mean much, it's the volume that comes out, and the cap should sit still on a healthy engine, a small amount of movement is fine, if it blows it off something's wrong 👍
Fueling pattern showing way outside the bowl, most obviously on #2 in video. Have ran plenty higher sustained EGTS in high mileage stock ISB 305 & 325's, with one stock ISB 305 running 4 digit horsepower at 245k. Injector health and injection timing is critical as I'm sure you're aware. I highly doubt EGTs had much to do with anything here, no indication of erosion on the crown or ridges of the piston caps either. Your burn pattern and failure type is highly indicative of the tune being the cause of failure, raw fuel wash into compression ring. In any case, good job on the in frame. Pulling it is only a 5-6 hour ordeal so I never bother fighting the truck.
These older Cummins are gold. Prices for Dodge Cummins are way higher than Ford & Chevy. Nobody wants to part with them. Great job. How long was job start to finish?
The Puppet Of Everything I have a ram Cummins 6.7 with 5200 hours on it and180k miles. 550~600 hp and absolutely no visual blow by. My Cummins 5.9 I used to have on the other hand. Puffed like a smoker.
My personal 2005 has a minor amount of blow by nothing major. The engine has roughly 230,000 miles and is clean as a whistle. I use it 30 weeks a year to move my rv and it’s starting to run rough occasionally. it’s “losing” or “burns” about 2-3 quarts of oil every 600-1000 miles. Thing that had me the most nervous is it tried to run away on me one morning at a stop light. It shot from idle to 3000+ rpm and sat there blowing black smoke for about 10-15 seconds at 3000+ rpm then just idled back down to normal.
When honing you don't actually have to go all the way to the bottom just want to make sure that you cover the areas where the Piston travels and slightly below. I did scrape an oiler here and there but mainly put the tin foil down there because I didn't want honing debris to get stuck inside the oiler.
Great info. I would have liked to have seen that manometer test for blow by. Its my understanding that just setting the oil cap loosely on top, it will dance around. 4 - 5 days kicks butt. Getting the head off, did you use an engine hoist? Ok I see you and a buddy got head off. Just read your detailed comment.
Tip that works leave the old bearing on the top of the of the Journal and tie a sock around it ... the Journal and bearing and if you are cleaning the deck or removal the liners in some engine the have liners the bearing make such a tight fit the debris can't get on the Journal surface 🙂works great in liner removal because hey no trash can get between that bearing and Journal hope this helps someone!
And if you drop something from the top through the hole you don't have to worry about it damaging the journal simple things will save you so much time and money!
Nice job and great video. You can also just run the ground wire straight to the manifold, banks has you do this when you install one of their intake horns, I will get a picture and try to post it for you tomorrow.
Don't get me wrong, but I have 363055 on my stroker, and still stroking, I don't have anything bad about Cummings, damn good engine, probably wasn't taken care of
Can you modify the mechanical engine 2005 Cummins 5.9 by changing injection pump, diesel lines to eliminate the electronic so that it works mechanically? I use translators languages excuse orthographic errol
Definitely should only use cummins oe bearings and rings, seen too many aftermarket bearings and rings that are spec'd a little off and never last aslong
I don’t have any blow by at the oil fill cap but I do have some vapor coming out of the crank case vent tube wondering if you ever heard of that problem before
My 2005 is at 248k and I’m pretty sure it broke a piston ring, too. My budget is tight, so I’m considering doing this once I get a concrete pad poured for me to work on
Would have run a long time like that, but nothing at all wrong with tackling the job head on and doing it complete, probably not much ovalization of the bores That stuf will hone right out too, ive seen some bad gouges from a wrist pin about 030 or 040 deep that didn't even affect how the engine ran after putting a new piston and rings and new rod in that hole, it ran like new no issues or oil consumption either... Did the repair out of state in an emergency and never had to touch it again
I did the upside down cap test on my oil fill to test for blow by. My truck is an 03' with 205k and to my surprise there is absolutely zero blowby. Not sure how this is even possible but it's true
Ive never did a pickup diesell looks tight me and my dad did my KT600 cummins and his 8V92 but they where both in cabovers the old detroits were a pain they have about 100 pounds more bolts then a cummins great video
How many miles have you put on since the rebuild? Have you done another Oil fill cap test lately. I would be interested in seeing an updated blow by test. Thanks
awsome i got new turbo and 3mo later if failed the bushings have gvooves in them looked kinda like your old connecting rid bearings i want to fix it and put it back on however i really probably need entire rebuild of engine
Interestingly I did not have to remove the pick up tube or cross brace to get the pistons out. 4 of 6 had broken rings, parts were still in groove for the most part
Tell me about the high EGT #s , been hot before on stock timing and no tuner, I was worried but 25k later its still ok. 1300+ for over 5 min on a big ole grade pulling over 16k lbs.
hello there champion! I have a 2000 dodge 3500 5.9 liter and has 360,000miles on it.. how would you charge to frame over houl... my truck still runs good, but it needs new gaskets on front and rear seal and tappet cover and oil pan...?
Robert Richardson there are various reasons that can cause broken piston rings. Not changing the air filter is the most common but isn’t always the case. Broken piston rings will cause scoring. Overfueling will wash a cylinder out causing bore polish. If it’s worse enough it will burn the piston. Listening to it idle, you can clearly tell it’s running on all 6. If it was a bad injector then it would have a fuel knock, there’s not a fuel knock
What caused it? My 5.9 96 dodge Cummins Speedo quit years ago 300+ runs strong paint is worn of top down .sun destroyed the dash . my forever truck gonna buff and patina no rust at all.
I just rebuilt mine, did you get the same smoke from the exhaust as the breather tube mine is puffin like white grey smoke goes away when driving just when sitting it’s puffing white grey smoke.
There seems to be a lot of knowledgeable commenters, so I have a question. I have a pre-turbo pyro and an HX40 on my 24v. What is safe temperature and duration? Several times when pulling equipment I have gotten up to 1350 degrees for 3 or 4 seconds. I have worried about what damage I did, because I had been told never to let it spike past 1250, so I generally let off the throttle about 1200 degrees.
I’ve got an 05 with the same problem with only 170k miles. When u did your overhaul did you get new valve guides put in and where did you order your kit from?
What is a “12 valve tune” ? I heard you mention that. I have a ‘04 with 313k on it. I run a smarty jr. on level 3 with #4 timing. Great mpg it’s a hwy truck I don’t run it hard. Question is should I run stock timing or leave it where it seems to be happy??
Did you wind up turning the crank see I was going to do this and just use a whole nother engine my truck needs a complete rebuild and it also needs a new ppimp and yeah I was thinking about doing the same thing just putting new Pistons boring it out dropping the pan rebuilding it right in the truck tell me what your thoughts are
What numbers did you have on manometer when you decided to undertake the rebuild? Did you test under load or just the 2200, 2500, and 2800 rpm in park. Thanks
I've got 04 325hp motor has a knock thought had bad injector after diagnosis replaced all injectors and new rocker assemblies due to galling got back together enough to run it and check and it still knocking and getting worse more it warms up, roughly 250000 miles. Thinking of pulling pan and checking rod bearings before I pull head to see what pistons look like. Curious what you think about it.
Have an '03 with a bad injector knock. Have solved the knock but still misses and smoking. Any suggestions along that line would be appreciated. At 233k miles am considering rebuild. What was your source for the rebuild kit?
On lifting the engine to remove the oil pan, did you had to unbolt or remove the transmission from the engine to jack up the engine? I know you had to removed the turbo or at least unbolt the exhaust side of it.
Did the same with my 12 valve then changed the oil once I hit 500 miles with Amsoil 15w-40 Signature Series and plan to change oil again between 15k-20k miles even though it recommends changing the oil before 60k or 600hrs
@@jasontruman1215 I said " plan to change oil again between 15k-20k miles " and I did just that. In fact I ended up changing just after I hit 16,000 miles. Scroll down to the bottom of this page where it says " Service Life " www.amsoil.com/p/signature-series-max-duty-synthetic-diesel-oil-15w-40-dme/?code=DME1G-CA&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkfW37fC36QIVg5yzCh0lSwD_EAYYASABEgLYyfD_BwE
@@jeffsmith8066 That is Amsoil's statement not mine! " SERVICE LIFE Diesel Engine Service Life Heavy-Duty On-/Off-Road: Three times (3X) OEM1 recommendation, not to exceed 60,000 miles/600 hours or one year, whichever comes first. " ----> www.amsoil.com/p/signature-series-max-duty-synthetic-diesel-oil-15w-40-dme/?code=DMETP-EA&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8Y335PK36QIVNPC1Ch3rSQ9cEAYYASABEgLKUPD_BwE
great video my friend.,i got a friend with a 07 dodge ram 6.7L cummins with the same problem like your truck,he take it to the dealer (chrysler) and he’s pay $9,000.00
i hit 302,000 miles and i had to rebuild not so much rebuild but mostly just get rid of the crappy 3 piece thrust bearings they used and put in new clevite bearings but figured since i have a back up truck for DD id just do an overhaul on the whole motor its not crazy expensive unless you need injectors.. then its crazy haha a set of good new injectors cost more than some peoples work cars cost them haha
Aight, your the professor..... I have an 05 2500.... I think my cylinders look better than yours did so that's encouraging. I was thinking of just buying a performance head when I am done. I am at the point of pan removal now.. Cover me I am going in!!!
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I know this comment is years late, but if you use a flat style cyl hone it allows you to see if there's any areas of the cylinder that are worn badly. Piston rings often break because as the piston travels up/down the ring is opening/closing (it's getting worked). Those worn areas allow the ring gap to open and then the gap closes when it passes the worn area. It will re-break the ring in no time at all. In cases like that, it's cyl bore time. Hone not gonna work. Traditional flat hone only type that will show the excessively worn areas. There will be low spots the flat hone can't touch and then you'll see them. Ball type hone will not show it. You can also use bore gauge, but flat hone will show the worn areas.
Your comment was useful for me I’m getting ready to rebuild my first 24 valve so thanks for the input!
Sounds like it lasted 300k and he will be happy to run another 300k. Prob broke rings from bad injectors
Just did this in my cummins. Definitely not for the faint hearted but lm up to 500 miles on the truck and I'm extremely pleased
Exact same thing I had to do with my ‘05 the second day of ownership. Drove it home with 4 out of 6 holes having broken rings (got a great buy on it). Also did valve stem seals but otherwise the same. #6 did (does) have a slight score from it’s previous problem, but I’ve rolled 200k miles on it since and the clock shows a total of 486k. I expected the score would give a little oil consumption, but it really doesn’t. Good video, gave me flashbacks
Thanks for the video! During a recent vacation to the Black Hills in South Dakota, my '04 3500 started consuming oil like crazy. We were in the line where you pay to park at the Mount Rushmore monument when I noticed smoke drifting out from under the hood. After finding a place to park, and letting the oil level settle into the pan, it was two quarts low after our trip started (600 miles). Rougher than normal idle, had full power in the hills for climbing, just had white smoke (fuel fog) from the tail pipe on a cold start in the mornings, and of course, used way too much oil. I did the basic blow-by test, and it failed miserably. It looked like a steam engine chugging from the valve cover! We did make it home from our trip without being stuck on the side of the road (Thanks Cummins!), and I'll be pulling the head to see which end of the engine has the problem. More than likely a busted ring, and if so, I'll be doing an in-frame overhaul, including rolling out/in the main bearings. Thanks again for your very detailed and informative videos. They will be saving me thousands of dollars!
330k miles before rebuild.i only have 98 k on my 07 5.9 dually.won't be doing this for a long time.great video
I'm almost to the point of stuffing the engine back in my 2005 Dodge Cummins. I had top compression ring broken on cyl 1 and 6, BOTH compression rings broken on cyl 5! Pulled the engine, had the block bored .040 over, new pistons, main bearings, rod bearings, cam bearing, reman complete cylinder head, all OEM parts. Looking forward to getting mine going again and seeing how much better it runs and performs!
Nice work man.. I'm a diesel mechanic from Australia and the fact you did a build in ya driveway is awesome ! 👌
Thanks man! Granted if I were doing this for money I would have taken more care, but so far it's holding up fine.
@@DieselCamper there's never enough time to do it properly, but always enough time to do it again! 😂
@@DieselCamperhello good night
Bro you have some guts....nice job man!!
Just got my 1st oil sample back (about 3500 miles on rebuild) and looks good. No fuel or coolant and metals are just above normal which I would expect for a motor breaking in.
I wish that I could add a video to your post to prove that it can be done.. It turned out really well, so thank you very much for your video to give me the courage to do my 1st engine
How's your truck still running?
@@Heliarc91 I am happy to say it is still running awesome!! I can't thank this video enough. I was very intimidated I admit, but he did such a good job I was able to do it 1x, no f ups.... Could not be happier
@@ChikzDigit did you notice less blowby after as well?
Or any blowby now other than slight even dissipating haze??
Mine, when warm, will intermittently bounce the cap very slightly with little puffs but it won't make it dance or jump. It comes and goes so I assume a cracked ring somewhere.
When I did my head gasket the cyl walls were a little slick but had some visible cross hatch
@@Heliarc91 one of my cylinders required a little more clean up than the rest, but even with that, I get no blow by. I was very disappointed to find out that Dodge is the cause of this problem, not Cummins
@@ChikzDigit what do you mean dodge cause?
Is it because of the way to little filter system? Or head circulation?
Wish you had some videos of before and after the blowby viewing. Mine used to be only some haze without pressure but now it's haze, Choo Choo with enough pressure to slightly lift the upside down cap laying on the fill hole.
Best way ive learned is a 16pen nail. Put it in the oil hole and hook the beaeing and roll it in. Old School mechanic taught me that 15 years ago.
REMOVABLE CROSSMEMBER, I cut out the crossmember on mine at each side, then took 2 pair of 1/4" thick steel plates, drilled 4 1/2" holes through each set of plates, for grade 8 bolts, nuts welded to the plates, then cut a 1/2" off each side of the crossmember, slid the plates in, lined up the crossmember with the frame, welded the plates in on each side, now I have a removable crossmember. I also put 3, 1 inch welds on each side, on the edges the bottom and sides so no sliding around from torque or heavy loads, 3 years ago and no problems, grind off the 3 ,1in welds on each side and remove it.
yeah these commonrails cummins love eating valve seats too and then it rips the head up pretty bad i have to replace my head because of a valve seat dropping.. not fun ended up doing a full rebuild but its not to bad as long as you take the time to separate and label all the bolts and stuff that way its super fast putting it back together and in frame wasnt to bad like he had trouble with the oil pan thats about the worst of it.. other than that just make sure your area is covered or clean i bought a roll of plastic and just covered the inside of the engine bay with it so i didnt contaminate anything when putting it back together and it make finding dropped tools etc easier haha
Wow, where was this video a month ago! 315k on my 2wd 06, ran like a dream but leaked and smoked. Major blowby, it would blow the cap completely off. I'm still in the process of doing mine. Just got the oil pan off yesterday. Rack and pinion was in the way. Mine is on a slope so I didn't want to try jacking the motor up too high. Great job with lots of tips and tricks.
Thanks and good luck with the rebuild!
Got the pistons out last week. #1 and #4 rings were broke. I flex honed all of them. #1 has a prominent ridge that I think I'll use the 100 grit 3 leg to take it down some and hit with the 240 grit flex hone to get my cross hatching. The ridge is 1" horizontal from the top. Not sure how that happened but I hope I can smooth it out. I figure it will be better to have a wider piston gap spread out 3 different ways (120° gap) than the ridge.
I'd bet it will be fine after you smooth it out
@@ahch-1402 you may need a ridge reamer to remove the ridge snapon makes a good tool
@@andrewslagle1974 well, I used a plastic scraper and got the ridge down smooth. Pistons in (all but one, I broke an oil ring)
I work for Cummins and my have helped build this one. looks like you did a great job!
Thanks Frank and thanks for the best truck engine ever put on the market!
Lol you must be the lot boy if you think this was a good job. Zero measuring, re used pistons, blindly ran a hone down and then zero measuring after to check runout or clearance. No way you build engines at cummins you would get fired to doing this crap
Set the cap on the hole and see if it dances, that's the quick test, the visible vapors really don't mean much, it's the volume that comes out, and the cap should sit still on a healthy engine, a small amount of movement is fine, if it blows it off something's wrong 👍
I get some steam out of my cap but the cap doesnt move. Normal?
The 5.9 is one of the best diesel engine. I dont see any videos of Fords or Chevy.
Love that cummins sound.
You want to see blow by take a look at a 12.7 Detroit with about 900K on it!
Fueling pattern showing way outside the bowl, most obviously on #2 in video. Have ran plenty higher sustained EGTS in high mileage stock ISB 305 & 325's, with one stock ISB 305 running 4 digit horsepower at 245k. Injector health and injection timing is critical as I'm sure you're aware. I highly doubt EGTs had much to do with anything here, no indication of erosion on the crown or ridges of the piston caps either. Your burn pattern and failure type is highly indicative of the tune being the cause of failure, raw fuel wash into compression ring. In any case, good job on the in frame. Pulling it is only a 5-6 hour ordeal so I never bother fighting the truck.
Do you remember what the kit number was that you got
These older Cummins are gold. Prices for Dodge Cummins are way higher than Ford & Chevy. Nobody wants to part with them. Great job. How long was job start to finish?
Thanks for taking the time to share your hard work. Really helpful.
If you think thats alot of blow by. My 7.3 should have been rebuilt a couple 100k miles ago lol
jake west amen
Yeah all diesels have blowby even when new, it's not until you see blowby coming out of the dipstick that I'd say it's time for a rebuild
The Puppet Of Everything I have a ram Cummins 6.7 with 5200 hours on it and180k miles. 550~600 hp and absolutely no visual blow by. My Cummins 5.9 I used to have on the other hand. Puffed like a smoker.
@@Beersandbrakeclean was the 5.9 common rail, isb, or p-pumped?
The Puppet Of Everything was a vp44 engine with about 130k miles. Only thing stock was the bottom end on that engine
My personal 2005 has a minor amount of blow by nothing major. The engine has roughly 230,000 miles and is clean as a whistle. I use it 30 weeks a year to move my rv and it’s starting to run rough occasionally. it’s “losing” or “burns” about 2-3 quarts of oil every 600-1000 miles. Thing that had me the most nervous is it tried to run away on me one morning at a stop light. It shot from idle to 3000+ rpm and sat there blowing black smoke for about 10-15 seconds at 3000+ rpm then just idled back down to normal.
Thanks for this video. Im literally about to remove the pistons to do my inframe right now. All because of this video. And a melted piston lol.
Let me know how it goes!
@@DieselCamper I'm worried about honing. Any tips for how you didnt hit the oilers. Don't really want to take them out. How did you do the tin foil
When honing you don't actually have to go all the way to the bottom just want to make sure that you cover the areas where the Piston travels and slightly below. I did scrape an oiler here and there but mainly put the tin foil down there because I didn't want honing debris to get stuck inside the oiler.
@@DieselCamper heads cracked and the blocks too scored. swap time :(
Ohh man sorry! Well you got a brand new motor ahead 👍
Great info. I would have liked to have seen that manometer test for blow by.
Its my understanding that just setting the oil cap loosely on top, it will dance around. 4 - 5 days kicks butt. Getting the head off, did you use an engine hoist? Ok I see you and a buddy got head off. Just read your detailed comment.
Nice video I was wondering if you could do a in frame on the pick up
Tip that works leave the old bearing on the top of the of the Journal and tie a sock around it ... the Journal and bearing and if you are cleaning the deck or removal the liners in some engine the have liners the bearing make such a tight fit the debris can't get on the Journal surface 🙂works great in liner removal because hey no trash can get between that bearing and Journal hope this helps someone!
Oh yeah socks are elastic so they stretch and everyone has them thanks
And if you drop something from the top through the hole you don't have to worry about it damaging the journal simple things will save you so much time and money!
How do you hook up a manometer for blow by
I had the same looking blowby on my 03 it ended up being a blown valve seal
I'm having this problem and I'm trying to decide what to do. I've heard the 03 have problems with the heads
I’ve always heard the 3rd gen 03-07 exhaust manifolds are bad to crack. I’d love a steed speed manifold and a bigger turbo
Get the Steed speed it's worth it
Great job it was like a mini Geiser before.......... well done 👍
Nice job and great video. You can also just run the ground wire straight to the manifold, banks has you do this when you install one of their intake horns, I will get a picture and try to post it for you tomorrow.
Don't get me wrong, but I have 363055 on my stroker, and still stroking, I don't have anything bad about Cummings, damn good engine, probably wasn't taken care of
Would taking hood off give you the room to get into no.#6 at a better angle.?????for honing.
A 3 stone hone is much easier to do precision work with and can set the preload with too
You should run an over head adjustment. It’s sounds like it needs one
Can you modify the mechanical engine 2005 Cummins 5.9 by changing injection pump, diesel lines to eliminate the electronic so that it works mechanically? I use translators languages excuse orthographic errol
I would consider getting a 12 valve 5.9 engine instead of trying to remove the electronics from a recent 5.9
Definitely should only use cummins oe bearings and rings, seen too many aftermarket bearings and rings that are spec'd a little off and never last aslong
Darn right, to many shady aftermarket parts out there in general for vehicles, OEM parts are at lest consistent and are good quality
What kit did you use? I’ll be attempting this rebuild using your video 🤟🏼
I don’t have any blow by at the oil fill cap but I do have some vapor coming out of the crank case vent tube wondering if you ever heard of that problem before
Vapor is normal, exhaust coming out of the oil fill is not! 👍
My 01 5.9 leave a puddle of oil out of the vent overnight. But only sometimes?
Make sure the small tube from the breather box isn't clogged. It returns captured oil to the crank case.
My 2005 is at 248k and I’m pretty sure it broke a piston ring, too. My budget is tight, so I’m considering doing this once I get a concrete pad poured for me to work on
Nice good luck with it! Mine is still going strong
Would have run a long time like that, but nothing at all wrong with tackling the job head on and doing it complete, probably not much ovalization of the bores
That stuf will hone right out too, ive seen some bad gouges from a wrist pin about 030 or 040 deep that didn't even affect how the engine ran after putting a new piston and rings and new rod in that hole, it ran like new no issues or oil consumption either...
Did the repair out of state in an emergency and never had to touch it again
Mine lasted 20k before the blow by stopped being able to tow
@@michaelsilberstein 20k after your rebuild?
What happened?
Getting ready to do the same thing to my 01. I take it the $600 didn't include the ARP's? How is it holding up?
So far really good. Oil sample came back clean at 3500 miles. Bought the ARPs used off a buddy for a few bucks.
@@DieselCamper How long did this take you to do?
I did the upside down cap test on my oil fill to test for blow by.
My truck is an 03' with 205k and to my surprise there is absolutely zero blowby.
Not sure how this is even possible but it's true
Great job still have an issue with a little blow by.
Damn pixel phone. Screwed us outta some good stuff. Thnx for the post Rob.
My 06 5.9 just lost a cylinder when it's cold. The smoke and rough idle lessens after it warms up but I have major blow-by. 320k miles
Great Informal video any new updates on your 5.9
Ive never did a pickup diesell looks tight me and my dad did my KT600 cummins and his 8V92 but they where both in cabovers the old detroits were a pain they have about 100 pounds more bolts then a cummins great video
Hey also I got the main bearing replaced what’s the best way to torque while the block is in the truck. 💀😂
Solid job man!!
How many miles have you put on since the rebuild?
Have you done another Oil fill cap test lately. I would be interested in seeing an updated blow by test.
Thanks
Bump
awsome i got new turbo and 3mo later if failed the bushings have gvooves in them looked kinda like your old connecting rid bearings
i want to fix it and put it back on however i really probably need entire rebuild of engine
Interestingly I did not have to remove the pick up tube or cross brace to get the pistons out. 4 of 6 had broken rings, parts were still in groove for the most part
Can you modify the mechanical engine 2005 cummins 5.9 by changing injection pump, diesel lines to eliminate the electronic completely?
Just do a 12 v swap
Tell me about the high EGT #s , been hot before on stock timing and no tuner, I was worried but 25k later its still ok. 1300+ for over 5 min on a big ole grade pulling over 16k lbs.
Good job. I will have to look up the blow bye info. Thanks.
hello there champion! I have a 2000 dodge 3500 5.9 liter and has 360,000miles on it.. how would you charge to frame over houl... my truck
still runs good, but it needs new gaskets on front and rear seal and tappet cover and oil pan...?
This is awesome! I'm at 295,000 on my 05. Hoping not to do this for a while! Did you need to do a break-in procedure?
Just a suggestion leave more time for to read your comments. Thanks
What type of oil do you run? Is it safe to switch from plain rotella to synthetic amsoil or will.this cause leaks or problems at 230,000 miles?
Broken piston rings is caused from over fueling or a bad injector so you have a tuner in it that will cause that
Robert Richardson there are various reasons that can cause broken piston rings. Not changing the air filter is the most common but isn’t always the case. Broken piston rings will cause scoring. Overfueling will wash a cylinder out causing bore polish. If it’s worse enough it will burn the piston. Listening to it idle, you can clearly tell it’s running on all 6. If it was a bad injector then it would have a fuel knock, there’s not a fuel knock
Where did you find the manometer tool and what readings are specified?
how did you learn this? This was great. Did you just delve right into it? Thanks for the video
Been working on cars since I was 17 with my first truck a 1978 Ford F150👍
I have a 99 2500 with 181,000 and love it
What caused it?
My 5.9 96 dodge Cummins Speedo quit years ago 300+ runs strong paint is worn of top down .sun destroyed the dash . my forever truck gonna buff and patina no rust at all.
T Huss these years of trucks have shitty rings in them, mine piled up 2 cylinders, pulled apart many engines with broken rings.
2 years later how’s the blowby any Video updates
I just rebuilt mine, did you get the same smoke from the exhaust as the breather tube mine is puffin like white grey smoke goes away when driving just when sitting it’s puffing white grey smoke.
did you have to undo the trans to lift the engine that high?
There should be 2 bolts that you take out to help separate from the frame support.
There seems to be a lot of knowledgeable commenters, so I have a question. I have a pre-turbo pyro and an HX40 on my 24v. What is safe temperature and duration? Several times when pulling equipment I have gotten up to 1350 degrees for 3 or 4 seconds. I have worried about what damage I did, because I had been told never to let it spike past 1250, so I generally let off the throttle about 1200 degrees.
I have a pre turbo pyro and 1250 is my limit.
1300 degrees for longer then a minute starts doing piston damage. Normally melting or cracks occur.
@@dannybender8 The HX40 they put on my truck seems to run hotter than the factory turbo did.
I’ve got an 05 with the same problem with only 170k miles. When u did your overhaul did you get new valve guides put in and where did you order your kit from?
Very nice video and good job
What is a “12 valve tune” ? I heard you mention that. I have a ‘04 with 313k on it. I run a smarty jr. on level 3 with #4 timing. Great mpg it’s a hwy truck I don’t run it hard. Question is should I run stock timing or leave it where it seems to be happy??
Did you wind up turning the crank see I was going to do this and just use a whole nother engine my truck needs a complete rebuild and it also needs a new ppimp and yeah I was thinking about doing the same thing just putting new Pistons boring it out dropping the pan rebuilding it right in the truck tell me what your thoughts are
No I never turned the crank, still going strong.
Did you do you front and rear main seals?You almost had the engine out they would have been easy
Mine has ove 240k and still no blow by. Not in the slightest. Is this good or bad. If a little blow by is good should I be worried there is 0 Blow By?
2000 2500 six speed. 565,000 km. Have had no major problems.
Does the '05 have replaceable cylinder sleeves? Oh, good video.
I know this is an old video but hopefully I can get a response. Did you need to lift the body up at all ?
No, just jacked the engine up👍
What numbers did you have on manometer when you decided to undertake the rebuild? Did you test under load or just the 2200, 2500, and 2800 rpm in park. Thanks
How is your 03 sounding like an 98.5 to 02 engine?!!! Im interested!
Great video thanks for the insight
I've got 04 325hp motor has a knock thought had bad injector after diagnosis replaced all injectors and new rocker assemblies due to galling got back together enough to run it and check and it still knocking and getting worse more it warms up, roughly 250000 miles. Thinking of pulling pan and checking rod bearings before I pull head to see what pistons look like. Curious what you think about it.
Have you tried torquing down the #4 injector line clamp? If loose it can be very noisy and someone could think it was a knock
So where should I get my rings and what brand
I’m in the middle of doing this right now, I know this is an old video but I’m curious how the rebuild is holding up? Thanks!
Still going strong!
Have an '03 with a bad injector knock. Have solved the knock but still misses and smoking. Any suggestions along that line would be appreciated. At 233k miles am considering rebuild. What was your source for the rebuild kit?
So what size did u fo witj for the flex hone
On lifting the engine to remove the oil pan, did you had to unbolt or remove the transmission from the engine to jack up the engine? I know you had to removed the turbo or at least unbolt the exhaust side of it.
I only unbolted the turbo flange.
Did the same with my 12 valve then changed the oil once I hit 500 miles with Amsoil 15w-40 Signature Series and plan to change oil again between 15k-20k miles even though it recommends changing the oil before 60k or 600hrs
JessieJ 60k?
98 12 valve right? 60k miles is fucking retarded...... yea there is people going 15k or even 20 with really good oil and filters but not 60.
I imagine he's missing a decimal point lol
@@jasontruman1215 I said " plan to change oil again between 15k-20k miles " and I did just that. In fact I ended up changing just after I hit 16,000 miles. Scroll down to the bottom of this page where it says " Service Life " www.amsoil.com/p/signature-series-max-duty-synthetic-diesel-oil-15w-40-dme/?code=DME1G-CA&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkfW37fC36QIVg5yzCh0lSwD_EAYYASABEgLYyfD_BwE
@@jeffsmith8066 That is Amsoil's statement not mine!
" SERVICE LIFE
Diesel Engine Service Life
Heavy-Duty On-/Off-Road: Three times (3X) OEM1 recommendation, not to exceed 60,000 miles/600 hours or one year, whichever comes first. " ----> www.amsoil.com/p/signature-series-max-duty-synthetic-diesel-oil-15w-40-dme/?code=DMETP-EA&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8Y335PK36QIVNPC1Ch3rSQ9cEAYYASABEgLKUPD_BwE
Awesome job
I notice your oil pressure is a little high what was your mixture
great video my friend.,i got a friend with a 07 dodge ram 6.7L cummins with the same problem like your truck,he take it to the dealer (chrysler) and he’s pay $9,000.00
Alfredo Jaime get anew engine lol
Doing a compression check would have shown there was problems with that cylinder
And how do you do a compression test on a diesel? There are no spark plugs or glow plugs in the cylinder to do such checks
@@michaelsilberstein
Going through the injector
What did you do to clean up your head and valves?
what hone did you use ? looking to do the same thing to my engine here shortly
336k miles on my 08 6.7 When mine hits 700k I'll think about rebuilding.
Keep your egt's down and you might make it...
@@DieselCamper
Stock so should be ok
@@DieselCamper emissions deleted will help greatly.
i hit 302,000 miles and i had to rebuild not so much rebuild but mostly just get rid of the crappy 3 piece thrust bearings they used and put in new clevite bearings but figured since i have a back up truck for DD id just do an overhaul on the whole motor its not crazy expensive unless you need injectors.. then its crazy haha a set of good new injectors cost more than some peoples work cars cost them haha
Good video .
Aight, your the professor..... I have an 05 2500.... I think my cylinders look better than yours did so that's encouraging. I was thinking of just buying a performance head when I am done. I am at the point of pan removal now.. Cover me I am going in!!!
Get some!
@@DieselCamper 1