5.9 Cummins in frame rebuild- 2005 Dodge Ram 2500
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 4 янв 2019
- 5.9 Cummins and 48RE Custom Tuning:
www.mm3tuning.com
This is how I did an in-frame engine rebuild on my 2005 Dodge Ram 5.9 Cummins engine. I reused my pistons and used an enginetech brand rebuild kit. The rebuild kit and random tools cost about $650 total.
To do an in frame overhaul you need to drain the coolant, remove the intake horn, serpentine belt, grid heater, and exhaust manifold with turbo. After that you need to remove the valve cover and unscrew the wire connectors from the fuel injectors. After that, remove the rocker box. Next remove the fuel rail and the fuel lines between the rail and the injectors and dont forget about the fuel line on the back of the head!. Loosen the injector hold down bolts and remove the injector feed tubes from the cylinder head. Once the tubes are out you can remove the injectors. Now you need to take out the valve rockers, pushrods, and rocker saddles keeping them in order so they go back to the same place they came from. The rear most pushrods have to be slid up through the top of the engine bay (there are 2 holes to allow this) and then rotated forward to remove. Now you can remove the head bolts and discard them. You must use new headbolts or replace with studs due to stretching. Remove the top alternator bolt and rotate alternator out of the mount attached to the cylinder head. Once the headbolts are off you and a buddy should be able to lift the head out. Next you need to loosen the engine mounts on both sides of the engine and jack the engine up about 5 inches to remove the oil pan. Once the oil pan is removed you need to remove the oil pickup tube and the block stiffener (remember where the torx bolt goes!). Lower the engine back into the mounts and remove the piston connecting rod bolts and caps. Keep the caps and piston assembly together because they are NOT interchangeable between piston rods. Once the caps are removed you can bush the piston out of the bore with a 1x2 piece of wood about 2 feet long. If the pistons are severely carbonized you can soak them in a professional carbon removing solution or white vinegar. Once all the pistons are out you can prepare the block for honing by covering up the crank in the bottom of the bores and taping off the coolant and oil passages on top of the block. Hone all cylinders in accordance with your hone manufacturers instructions.
After honing, I cleaned the bottom end of the block out with several cans of brake cleaner and prepared the top of the block for a new head gasket scraping away of the old head gasket and lightly sanding the block. I then vacuumed out all of the coolant and oil passages. Now you can clean up your pistons by removing all of the carbon and make sure to clean out the ring grooves. Install new rings in accordance with the manufacturer of your rebuild kits instructions. Ring gaps should be offset from each other at 120 degrees.
For bearing replacement watch this video: • In-Frame Engine Bearin... and do what he does! The #5 bearing has flanges and can be tricky to get in. I had to bevel the edges slightly to get it to slide in. As you roll in each bearing and replace the main bearing caps afterwards, only hand tighten the caps. Once you have done ALL the bearings, you can go back and tighten the main caps according to the torque procedure here: docs.google.com/document/d/13...
Now, after replacing the rod bearings you can reinstall your pistons using a piston ring compressor and taking care to return each piston to the ORIGINAL bore and oriented with the “front” mark towards the radiator. Make sure to maintain the proper ring gap offset! Once you get the piston onto the crank with its ORIGINAL cap, torque according to the spec sheet above. Now you can reassemble your engine in basically reverse order. Pay attention to the torque procedure for the new head bolts/studs and when reinstalling your injectors!
I know this comment is years late, but if you use a flat style cyl hone it allows you to see if there's any areas of the cylinder that are worn badly. Piston rings often break because as the piston travels up/down the ring is opening/closing (it's getting worked). Those worn areas allow the ring gap to open and then the gap closes when it passes the worn area. It will re-break the ring in no time at all. In cases like that, it's cyl bore time. Hone not gonna work. Traditional flat hone only type that will show the excessively worn areas. There will be low spots the flat hone can't touch and then you'll see them. Ball type hone will not show it. You can also use bore gauge, but flat hone will show the worn areas.
Your comment was useful for me I’m getting ready to rebuild my first 24 valve so thanks for the input!
Sounds like it lasted 300k and he will be happy to run another 300k. Prob broke rings from bad injectors
Thanks for the video! During a recent vacation to the Black Hills in South Dakota, my '04 3500 started consuming oil like crazy. We were in the line where you pay to park at the Mount Rushmore monument when I noticed smoke drifting out from under the hood. After finding a place to park, and letting the oil level settle into the pan, it was two quarts low after our trip started (600 miles). Rougher than normal idle, had full power in the hills for climbing, just had white smoke (fuel fog) from the tail pipe on a cold start in the mornings, and of course, used way too much oil. I did the basic blow-by test, and it failed miserably. It looked like a steam engine chugging from the valve cover! We did make it home from our trip without being stuck on the side of the road (Thanks Cummins!), and I'll be pulling the head to see which end of the engine has the problem. More than likely a busted ring, and if so, I'll be doing an in-frame overhaul, including rolling out/in the main bearings. Thanks again for your very detailed and informative videos. They will be saving me thousands of dollars!
Exact same thing I had to do with my ‘05 the second day of ownership. Drove it home with 4 out of 6 holes having broken rings (got a great buy on it). Also did valve stem seals but otherwise the same. #6 did (does) have a slight score from it’s previous problem, but I’ve rolled 200k miles on it since and the clock shows a total of 486k. I expected the score would give a little oil consumption, but it really doesn’t. Good video, gave me flashbacks
I'm almost to the point of stuffing the engine back in my 2005 Dodge Cummins. I had top compression ring broken on cyl 1 and 6, BOTH compression rings broken on cyl 5! Pulled the engine, had the block bored .040 over, new pistons, main bearings, rod bearings, cam bearing, reman complete cylinder head, all OEM parts. Looking forward to getting mine going again and seeing how much better it runs and performs!
Just did this in my cummins. Definitely not for the faint hearted but lm up to 500 miles on the truck and I'm extremely pleased
Just got my 1st oil sample back (about 3500 miles on rebuild) and looks good. No fuel or coolant and metals are just above normal which I would expect for a motor breaking in.
330k miles before rebuild.i only have 98 k on my 07 5.9 dually.won't be doing this for a long time.great video
Thanks for taking the time to share your hard work. Really helpful.
Love that cummins sound.
Nice work man.. I'm a diesel mechanic from Australia and the fact you did a build in ya driveway is awesome ! 👌
Thanks man! Granted if I were doing this for money I would have taken more care, but so far it's holding up fine.
@@DieselCamper there's never enough time to do it properly, but always enough time to do it again! 😂
@@DieselCamperhello good night
I wish that I could add a video to your post to prove that it can be done.. It turned out really well, so thank you very much for your video to give me the courage to do my 1st engine
How's your truck still running?
@@heliarc5186 I am happy to say it is still running awesome!! I can't thank this video enough. I was very intimidated I admit, but he did such a good job I was able to do it 1x, no f ups.... Could not be happier
@@ChikzDigit did you notice less blowby after as well?
Or any blowby now other than slight even dissipating haze??
Mine, when warm, will intermittently bounce the cap very slightly with little puffs but it won't make it dance or jump. It comes and goes so I assume a cracked ring somewhere.
When I did my head gasket the cyl walls were a little slick but had some visible cross hatch
@@heliarc5186 one of my cylinders required a little more clean up than the rest, but even with that, I get no blow by. I was very disappointed to find out that Dodge is the cause of this problem, not Cummins
@@ChikzDigit what do you mean dodge cause?
Is it because of the way to little filter system? Or head circulation?
Wish you had some videos of before and after the blowby viewing. Mine used to be only some haze without pressure but now it's haze, Choo Choo with enough pressure to slightly lift the upside down cap laying on the fill hole.
Nice job and great video. You can also just run the ground wire straight to the manifold, banks has you do this when you install one of their intake horns, I will get a picture and try to post it for you tomorrow.
Bro you have some guts....nice job man!!
Set the cap on the hole and see if it dances, that's the quick test, the visible vapors really don't mean much, it's the volume that comes out, and the cap should sit still on a healthy engine, a small amount of movement is fine, if it blows it off something's wrong 👍
yeah these commonrails cummins love eating valve seats too and then it rips the head up pretty bad i have to replace my head because of a valve seat dropping.. not fun ended up doing a full rebuild but its not to bad as long as you take the time to separate and label all the bolts and stuff that way its super fast putting it back together and in frame wasnt to bad like he had trouble with the oil pan thats about the worst of it.. other than that just make sure your area is covered or clean i bought a roll of plastic and just covered the inside of the engine bay with it so i didnt contaminate anything when putting it back together and it make finding dropped tools etc easier haha
Solid job man!!
Great job it was like a mini Geiser before.......... well done 👍
Good job. I will have to look up the blow bye info. Thanks.
Great job still have an issue with a little blow by.
Nice video I was wondering if you could do a in frame on the pick up
Best way ive learned is a 16pen nail. Put it in the oil hole and hook the beaeing and roll it in. Old School mechanic taught me that 15 years ago.
REMOVABLE CROSSMEMBER, I cut out the crossmember on mine at each side, then took 2 pair of 1/4" thick steel plates, drilled 4 1/2" holes through each set of plates, for grade 8 bolts, nuts welded to the plates, then cut a 1/2" off each side of the crossmember, slid the plates in, lined up the crossmember with the frame, welded the plates in on each side, now I have a removable crossmember. I also put 3, 1 inch welds on each side, on the edges the bottom and sides so no sliding around from torque or heavy loads, 3 years ago and no problems, grind off the 3 ,1in welds on each side and remove it.
Great info. I would have liked to have seen that manometer test for blow by.
Its my understanding that just setting the oil cap loosely on top, it will dance around. 4 - 5 days kicks butt. Getting the head off, did you use an engine hoist? Ok I see you and a buddy got head off. Just read your detailed comment.
Thanks for this video. Im literally about to remove the pistons to do my inframe right now. All because of this video. And a melted piston lol.
Let me know how it goes!
@@DieselCamper I'm worried about honing. Any tips for how you didnt hit the oilers. Don't really want to take them out. How did you do the tin foil
When honing you don't actually have to go all the way to the bottom just want to make sure that you cover the areas where the Piston travels and slightly below. I did scrape an oiler here and there but mainly put the tin foil down there because I didn't want honing debris to get stuck inside the oiler.
@@DieselCamper heads cracked and the blocks too scored. swap time :(
Ohh man sorry! Well you got a brand new motor ahead 👍
I have a 99 2500 with 181,000 and love it
Wow, where was this video a month ago! 315k on my 2wd 06, ran like a dream but leaked and smoked. Major blowby, it would blow the cap completely off. I'm still in the process of doing mine. Just got the oil pan off yesterday. Rack and pinion was in the way. Mine is on a slope so I didn't want to try jacking the motor up too high. Great job with lots of tips and tricks.
Thanks and good luck with the rebuild!
Got the pistons out last week. #1 and #4 rings were broke. I flex honed all of them. #1 has a prominent ridge that I think I'll use the 100 grit 3 leg to take it down some and hit with the 240 grit flex hone to get my cross hatching. The ridge is 1" horizontal from the top. Not sure how that happened but I hope I can smooth it out. I figure it will be better to have a wider piston gap spread out 3 different ways (120° gap) than the ridge.
I'd bet it will be fine after you smooth it out
@@ahch-1402 you may need a ridge reamer to remove the ridge snapon makes a good tool
@@andrewslagle1974 well, I used a plastic scraper and got the ridge down smooth. Pistons in (all but one, I broke an oil ring)
Do you remember what the kit number was that you got
The 5.9 is one of the best diesel engine. I dont see any videos of Fords or Chevy.
Nice work man
Very nice video and good job
These older Cummins are gold. Prices for Dodge Cummins are way higher than Ford & Chevy. Nobody wants to part with them. Great job. How long was job start to finish?
Awesome, good job👍
Great video thanks for the insight
My personal 2005 has a minor amount of blow by nothing major. The engine has roughly 230,000 miles and is clean as a whistle. I use it 30 weeks a year to move my rv and it’s starting to run rough occasionally. it’s “losing” or “burns” about 2-3 quarts of oil every 600-1000 miles. Thing that had me the most nervous is it tried to run away on me one morning at a stop light. It shot from idle to 3000+ rpm and sat there blowing black smoke for about 10-15 seconds at 3000+ rpm then just idled back down to normal.
Awesome job
I work for Cummins and my have helped build this one. looks like you did a great job!
Thanks Frank and thanks for the best truck engine ever put on the market!
Lol you must be the lot boy if you think this was a good job. Zero measuring, re used pistons, blindly ran a hone down and then zero measuring after to check runout or clearance. No way you build engines at cummins you would get fired to doing this crap
Tip that works leave the old bearing on the top of the of the Journal and tie a sock around it ... the Journal and bearing and if you are cleaning the deck or removal the liners in some engine the have liners the bearing make such a tight fit the debris can't get on the Journal surface 🙂works great in liner removal because hey no trash can get between that bearing and Journal hope this helps someone!
Oh yeah socks are elastic so they stretch and everyone has them thanks
And if you drop something from the top through the hole you don't have to worry about it damaging the journal simple things will save you so much time and money!
Would taking hood off give you the room to get into no.#6 at a better angle.?????for honing.
awsome i got new turbo and 3mo later if failed the bushings have gvooves in them looked kinda like your old connecting rid bearings
i want to fix it and put it back on however i really probably need entire rebuild of engine
Nice job thank you for your help 👍
A 3 stone hone is much easier to do precision work with and can set the preload with too
Interestingly I did not have to remove the pick up tube or cross brace to get the pistons out. 4 of 6 had broken rings, parts were still in groove for the most part
Well done!
New sub
Thanks for the video
I’ve always heard the 3rd gen 03-07 exhaust manifolds are bad to crack. I’d love a steed speed manifold and a bigger turbo
Get the Steed speed it's worth it
nice tuner i have the same one!
Ive never did a pickup diesell looks tight me and my dad did my KT600 cummins and his 8V92 but they where both in cabovers the old detroits were a pain they have about 100 pounds more bolts then a cummins great video
How do you hook up a manometer for blow by
Fueling pattern showing way outside the bowl, most obviously on #2 in video. Have ran plenty higher sustained EGTS in high mileage stock ISB 305 & 325's, with one stock ISB 305 running 4 digit horsepower at 245k. Injector health and injection timing is critical as I'm sure you're aware. I highly doubt EGTs had much to do with anything here, no indication of erosion on the crown or ridges of the piston caps either. Your burn pattern and failure type is highly indicative of the tune being the cause of failure, raw fuel wash into compression ring. In any case, good job on the in frame. Pulling it is only a 5-6 hour ordeal so I never bother fighting the truck.
Have an '03 with a bad injector knock. Have solved the knock but still misses and smoking. Any suggestions along that line would be appreciated. At 233k miles am considering rebuild. What was your source for the rebuild kit?
My 06 5.9 just lost a cylinder when it's cold. The smoke and rough idle lessens after it warms up but I have major blow-by. 320k miles
What numbers did you have on manometer when you decided to undertake the rebuild? Did you test under load or just the 2200, 2500, and 2800 rpm in park. Thanks
I had the same looking blowby on my 03 it ended up being a blown valve seal
I'm having this problem and I'm trying to decide what to do. I've heard the 03 have problems with the heads
Wow after watching. I realize how much bigger the 96s are under the hood.
Don't get me wrong, but I have 363055 on my stroker, and still stroking, I don't have anything bad about Cummings, damn good engine, probably wasn't taken care of
You want to see blow by take a look at a 12.7 Detroit with about 900K on it!
Good video .
If you think thats alot of blow by. My 7.3 should have been rebuilt a couple 100k miles ago lol
jake west amen
Yeah all diesels have blowby even when new, it's not until you see blowby coming out of the dipstick that I'd say it's time for a rebuild
The Puppet Of Everything I have a ram Cummins 6.7 with 5200 hours on it and180k miles. 550~600 hp and absolutely no visual blow by. My Cummins 5.9 I used to have on the other hand. Puffed like a smoker.
@@Beersandbrakeclean was the 5.9 common rail, isb, or p-pumped?
The Puppet Of Everything was a vp44 engine with about 130k miles. Only thing stock was the bottom end on that engine
I did the upside down cap test on my oil fill to test for blow by.
My truck is an 03' with 205k and to my surprise there is absolutely zero blowby.
Not sure how this is even possible but it's true
What is a “12 valve tune” ? I heard you mention that. I have a ‘04 with 313k on it. I run a smarty jr. on level 3 with #4 timing. Great mpg it’s a hwy truck I don’t run it hard. Question is should I run stock timing or leave it where it seems to be happy??
You roll in new bearings without measuring oil clearance?
I just rebuilt mine, did you get the same smoke from the exhaust as the breather tube mine is puffin like white grey smoke goes away when driving just when sitting it’s puffing white grey smoke.
How many miles have you put on since the rebuild?
Have you done another Oil fill cap test lately. I would be interested in seeing an updated blow by test.
Thanks
Bump
Mine has ove 240k and still no blow by. Not in the slightest. Is this good or bad. If a little blow by is good should I be worried there is 0 Blow By?
Damn pixel phone. Screwed us outta some good stuff. Thnx for the post Rob.
It is actually much quiter after the rebuild
Great Informal video any new updates on your 5.9
I don’t have any blow by at the oil fill cap but I do have some vapor coming out of the crank case vent tube wondering if you ever heard of that problem before
Vapor is normal, exhaust coming out of the oil fill is not! 👍
My 01 5.9 leave a puddle of oil out of the vent overnight. But only sometimes?
Make sure the small tube from the breather box isn't clogged. It returns captured oil to the crank case.
hello there champion! I have a 2000 dodge 3500 5.9 liter and has 360,000miles on it.. how would you charge to frame over houl... my truck
still runs good, but it needs new gaskets on front and rear seal and tappet cover and oil pan...?
Can you modify the mechanical engine 2005 Cummins 5.9 by changing injection pump, diesel lines to eliminate the electronic so that it works mechanically? I use translators languages excuse orthographic errol
I would consider getting a 12 valve 5.9 engine instead of trying to remove the electronics from a recent 5.9
Can you modify the mechanical engine 2005 cummins 5.9 by changing injection pump, diesel lines to eliminate the electronic completely?
Just do a 12 v swap
I notice your oil pressure is a little high what was your mixture
Great Video 👍👍👍👍. What do you think caused this?
Too much low idling?
Also what type & brand of oil did you use up to rebuild?
Tell me about the high EGT #s , been hot before on stock timing and no tuner, I was worried but 25k later its still ok. 1300+ for over 5 min on a big ole grade pulling over 16k lbs.
Getting ready to do the same thing to my 01. I take it the $600 didn't include the ARP's? How is it holding up?
So far really good. Oil sample came back clean at 3500 miles. Bought the ARPs used off a buddy for a few bucks.
@@DieselCamper How long did this take you to do?
Hey also I got the main bearing replaced what’s the best way to torque while the block is in the truck. 💀😂
Did the same with my 12 valve then changed the oil once I hit 500 miles with Amsoil 15w-40 Signature Series and plan to change oil again between 15k-20k miles even though it recommends changing the oil before 60k or 600hrs
JessieJ 60k?
98 12 valve right? 60k miles is fucking retarded...... yea there is people going 15k or even 20 with really good oil and filters but not 60.
I imagine he's missing a decimal point lol
@@jasontruman1215 I said " plan to change oil again between 15k-20k miles " and I did just that. In fact I ended up changing just after I hit 16,000 miles. Scroll down to the bottom of this page where it says " Service Life " www.amsoil.com/p/signature-series-max-duty-synthetic-diesel-oil-15w-40-dme/?code=DME1G-CA&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkfW37fC36QIVg5yzCh0lSwD_EAYYASABEgLYyfD_BwE
@@jeffsmith8066 That is Amsoil's statement not mine!
" SERVICE LIFE
Diesel Engine Service Life
Heavy-Duty On-/Off-Road: Three times (3X) OEM1 recommendation, not to exceed 60,000 miles/600 hours or one year, whichever comes first. " ----> www.amsoil.com/p/signature-series-max-duty-synthetic-diesel-oil-15w-40-dme/?code=DMETP-EA&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8Y335PK36QIVNPC1Ch3rSQ9cEAYYASABEgLKUPD_BwE
My 2005 is at 248k and I’m pretty sure it broke a piston ring, too. My budget is tight, so I’m considering doing this once I get a concrete pad poured for me to work on
Nice good luck with it! Mine is still going strong
Would have run a long time like that, but nothing at all wrong with tackling the job head on and doing it complete, probably not much ovalization of the bores
That stuf will hone right out too, ive seen some bad gouges from a wrist pin about 030 or 040 deep that didn't even affect how the engine ran after putting a new piston and rings and new rod in that hole, it ran like new no issues or oil consumption either...
Did the repair out of state in an emergency and never had to touch it again
Mine lasted 20k before the blow by stopped being able to tow
@@michaelsilberstein 20k after your rebuild?
What happened?
I would like to know if you could tell me what the cost was
Did you do you front and rear main seals?You almost had the engine out they would have been easy
What kit did you use? I’ll be attempting this rebuild using your video 🤟🏼
2 years later how’s the blowby any Video updates
Where did you find the manometer tool and what readings are specified?
Definitely should only use cummins oe bearings and rings, seen too many aftermarket bearings and rings that are spec'd a little off and never last aslong
Darn right, to many shady aftermarket parts out there in general for vehicles, OEM parts are at lest consistent and are good quality
What type of oil do you run? Is it safe to switch from plain rotella to synthetic amsoil or will.this cause leaks or problems at 230,000 miles?
I’ve got an 05 with the same problem with only 170k miles. When u did your overhaul did you get new valve guides put in and where did you order your kit from?
what hone did you use ? looking to do the same thing to my engine here shortly
Multiple questions haha...Which rebuild kit did you use? link? When getting the pan off did you have trouble with the transmission being in the way? Also would you maybe recommend doing a full blown overhaul/rebuild kit that comes with new pistons/rods? I have the same blow by as you and just kinda was researching how to do the rebuild and such, wasn't looking fwd to pulling the engine AT ALL then I came across your video and i think i will follow in your footsteps! Thank you very much for the informative video and tips! Look fwd to your reply.
I used an engine masters rebuild kit I bought on eBay. Came with new rings seals and gaskets. You can decide on the Pistons after you get a look at them... If needs be you can do other things on the motor while you wait for the Pistons if you end up ordering them. No issues with trans getting pan off.
Not bad 👌🏼
How much did it cost you? Dealer quoted me around 15k they said I need to replace the motor. Due to bad blow by
How is your 03 sounding like an 98.5 to 02 engine?!!! Im interested!
Does the '05 have replaceable cylinder sleeves? Oh, good video.
On lifting the engine to remove the oil pan, did you had to unbolt or remove the transmission from the engine to jack up the engine? I know you had to removed the turbo or at least unbolt the exhaust side of it.
I only unbolted the turbo flange.
I've got 04 325hp motor has a knock thought had bad injector after diagnosis replaced all injectors and new rocker assemblies due to galling got back together enough to run it and check and it still knocking and getting worse more it warms up, roughly 250000 miles. Thinking of pulling pan and checking rod bearings before I pull head to see what pistons look like. Curious what you think about it.
Have you tried torquing down the #4 injector line clamp? If loose it can be very noisy and someone could think it was a knock
This is awesome! I'm at 295,000 on my 05. Hoping not to do this for a while! Did you need to do a break-in procedure?
Thank u bro
Im all about doing what we gotta do to get a job done but dude after all that work you could've pulled cab off and been done way quicker and easier.
You should run an over head adjustment. It’s sounds like it needs one
What did you do to clean up your head and valves?