Been useing hope tech 4 e4 brakes snd hope rotors for 6 years. Never had an issue, they worked flawless! I even damaged them in a crash and was able to buy the parts to rebuild them. Again flawless.
Well the science aside, when you are zooming down a rocky trail at ungodly speeds and realize that you need to slow in a hurry having brakes labeled 'hope' really helps! Mine have not let me down yet...😊
Unconvinced, there are no mtb rotors that are actually floating (play in the rivets) and heat is not nearly as big of an issue. Al spider rotors are slightly better in terms of resisting warping but that's about it. If it were truly an easy performance gain you'd expect to see them in all of the big players' lineups (sram, trp, certainly galfer) and on every dh bike
This is such a bad arguement against floating rotors. Everyone knows lots of bike manufacturers put pretty standard components on like brakes, stems, pedals. They won't give you premium everything. Most people like to upgrade these things from stock, but it also saves them money on the build. based on your argument cars would also have premium brakes, but actually most people upgrade these to aftermarket ones if they get a performance vehichle. And no, I don't mean a lambo.
@@darkspeed62 I don't think that is at all the argument I was making. What I said was if floating rotors were indeed significantly better then they would comprise most of the expensive aftermarket rotor offerings and be on most race bikes
@@godstrashman not really because the idea with DH mountain bike riders is to get down the hill as fast as possible. They're actually on the brakes less than you think, and can often take corners without even applying the brakes prior. Your average bike park goer who is definitely going to be on the brakes far more than a pro DH rider will see more benefit from the heat dissipation.
the heat transfer to the carrier is wishful thinking. the contact area between the steel and aluminum is so small that the heat will just stay on the steel part. it might help against warping, but even that is questionable. I'm testing out cheap 203mm 2.3mm thick rotors made from a single piece of steel. The idea was to have more mass and more heat shedding capacity. not the case, and they warp pretty badly on long descents, however straighten back up once they cool down. Stainless steel is a terrible heat conductor, and warps immensely (common knowledge in welding), so the only way I see to prevent warping is to keep the cool with airflow and/or water.
The loosening of the bolts and squeezing of the lever helps sometimes otherwise once the pistons and pads are centred ….eyeballing is better…sometimes using a shim or two as well ☺️
you're right to use a shim ... ano brake instead of a S-RAM one. Or buy trickstuff stuff, if you have to much money. They are in a different league from everything shown here.
I just bought MDR-Ps in 220mm and they work great but my god do they rub constantly. Unfortunately they only make the 220mm in 6-bolt and it says not to use with a CL adapter but my hubs are CL and the DT Swiss adapter says its good up to 230mm so I did it anyway. I dont think that would be causing the issue but Im thinking of switching to these hope bc they make CL 220mm and they are a little bit thinner which I think might possibly help with my clearance issues. And Ive tried everything I can think of to stop the slight rub… cleaned & lubed all brake pistons, aligned by eye for hours, Hayes feel’r gauge alignment tool, bleeding the brakes 10 different ways, park rotor alignment tool… I realized rotor alignment is the best option but its a never ending back and forth of adjustments.
i just got my emtb and took it to behind my house i have some trails i finished an green 500m long trail and the rotors are worped, mind you i have them in sram maven ultimate's have to find something that can keep up with the calipers now
Problem with the fantastic Hope 2 piece rotors, the rivets. They interfere with caliper adapters/spacers on two of my builds in 220/200. Make sure they fit!
I used to have centerlines on my kona operator but i switched them out a few months ago for that same pair of hope rotors and ive never been happier. They're way more grippy and so far i haven't had them run hot on me or squeak
The turbo levo I got has those centerline rotors, and honestly, they don't seem impressive, especially for a 200mm rotor. My front rotor also came slightly bent, so I've ordred a pair of the hope floating rotors, so I hope they make a difference.
@phoxrides I've got a question what type of material do you have on your break pads? I've ordered some for mine and the breaking strength has gone to literally 0. I took it to the bike shop and they looked at it and even checked for contamination but they're thinking it's the pad material
@@SubaruWRC1996funny enough I was planning on making this video soon. Most MTB pads come in two flavors. Resin/Organic or metallic/sintered. However a third style, popular in motor racing, is finally gaining popularity. Stick around for the upcoming video.
@phoxrides Right now I've got sram, which had the metallic pads, and on the hope rotors they aren't doing anything. I took it to a bike shop, and they thought the brakes were contaminated it's that bad. Would organic pads make much of a difference, do you think?
Tried some ceramic break pads and just putting them in got a massive boost to power without even Bedding them in properly yet. Definitely think I've found my preferred break pad.
I haven't had Hope brakes for years, but both sets I had were junk(same with the hubs), I even had their fancy ventilated rotor. I run Intend rotors now because their science made sense, lots of tiny holes to maximise braking surface area and cooling surface area. Punching big holes in rotors just makes them get hot quicker and wear pads out fast for no real benefit. The rivets do almost nothing for alignment or heat transfer, stainless is a very poor conductor of heat. Multi piece construction reduces the chance of warping because aluminium expands at a much greater rate than stainless. So even though the hat doesn't get as hot as the braking surface it expands a similar amount. I'm a fat brake dragger that has tuned rotors black/blue but never warped one.
dont forget before you tighten the bolts to "pre load" the disk but twisting it counter close wise (Alice edit: CLOCKWISE!) so the disk doesnt slip after everything is tight.
I used the hopes and the very cheap floating rotors you find on ali, both have way better results than ice tech or 2mm galfers. If you're looking for another efficient option is going solid but with more mass and thickness, 2.3mm + but yeah these B are heavy 😂
This is a terrible comparison and shows a lack of understanding. 1. You are comparing floating rotors to fixed rotors-apples and oranges. 2. SRAM centerline X and XR are both floating rotors and used on pro bikes today, both road and mountain. 3. Shimano XT and XTR are also floating rotors and their Ice-tech technology are first class among enduro and downhill due to them being 3 layers, aluminum sandwich between 2 outer steel plates. 4. Floating rotors are not there to dissipate heat like you said, that is just a nice side-effect just like suspension on a bike is not designed for your comfort but for wheel tracking. A floating rotor is to allow the metal to flex under constant high heat to prevent warping. 5. You do NOT need floating rotors on your bike, motorcycle or car for good braking. 99% of vehicles purchased use a fix rotor design and they go much, much faster than any bike. 6. I can’t speak on the quality of Hope-they are popular-but both SRAM and Shimano use a coating on their rotors to prevent rusting which IMHO is more important because a contaminated rotor will not mate well with the pads and there diminish braking power. 7. Lastly, there are the pads and calipers to contend with so rotors are only one component of braking.
It's not that they're popular. Hope Tech has been manufacturing disc brakes since 1991, way long before Shimano which only had cantilevers at that time and SRAM didn't even exist. I think they know something about brakes.
Ive ridden bikes for 4 plus decades. Pedal as well a motocross and streetbikes. Also have a ton of track experience on both street and track. This is a wash. Bikes and even ebikes dont weigh anywhere near as much as a motorcycle and my KTM Duke is much faster in 1st gear than any either a bike or an ebike. This whole comparison is laughable.
i have them but regardless of what im doing or which pads I'm using, they won't shut up :( but beside the sound issue, they're a 10/10 in everything else
The hopes are nice discs but it is not the carrier that makes the different. I have 230 pounds naked and brakes are a big thing due to that. The big different is the thickness of the disc. Normal discs have 1.8 mm thickness. I kill this discs in one day. I am using discs with a thickness of 2,3 mm. They fit perfekt with hope v4 brakes. They are made out of one peace. They do for what they made for. Just braking perfectly. No squeezing or rubbing. Never had heat problems. My last bike is a gravel. There are only 180 mm discs allowed. Big problem. Normally I run 203 mm. First I mounted exactly the hope rotor that you are promoting. I run down with 90 km/ hour and had to brake down to 15 km/ h. I had a brake fading with loss of the front brake. The hope disc was blue do to the heat and dented. I changed the disc and now I am using 2.3 mm puncture disc from brakestuff. In 180. I tested the disc on same hill with same speed. No problem. More and more brands offer discs with more thickness. To save weight on discs is stupid.
Go watch Flow Mtb on them there the worst to put on they ding out of true to easy to shimano ice tech and sram! I love hope ran them for years but will only run the new vented discs on my tech 4 think they are 2.3mm thick I have shimano 203mm ice tech and full XT on my other bike they are alot better have to say than Hopes floating disc's hate to say it as hope is made here and ran hope components for past 25 year's but when comes to safety of stopping power the new Vented disc's they have are the way forward for hope
Been useing hope tech 4 e4 brakes snd hope rotors for 6 years. Never had an issue, they worked flawless! I even damaged them in a crash and was able to buy the parts to rebuild them. Again flawless.
Well the science aside, when you are zooming down a rocky trail at ungodly speeds and realize that you need to slow in a hurry having brakes labeled 'hope' really helps! Mine have not let me down yet...😊
That's objectively funny!
Unconvinced, there are no mtb rotors that are actually floating (play in the rivets) and heat is not nearly as big of an issue. Al spider rotors are slightly better in terms of resisting warping but that's about it. If it were truly an easy performance gain you'd expect to see them in all of the big players' lineups (sram, trp, certainly galfer) and on every dh bike
The brand new SRAM centerline X are are floating. Well, to your point they are technically “semi-floating”
I came across some some rotors from zeno that claim to be more floating but is dont know enough to say that they are
This is such a bad arguement against floating rotors. Everyone knows lots of bike manufacturers put pretty standard components on like brakes, stems, pedals. They won't give you premium everything. Most people like to upgrade these things from stock, but it also saves them money on the build.
based on your argument cars would also have premium brakes, but actually most people upgrade these to aftermarket ones if they get a performance vehichle. And no, I don't mean a lambo.
@@darkspeed62 I don't think that is at all the argument I was making. What I said was if floating rotors were indeed significantly better then they would comprise most of the expensive aftermarket rotor offerings and be on most race bikes
@@godstrashman not really because the idea with DH mountain bike riders is to get down the hill as fast as possible. They're actually on the brakes less than you think, and can often take corners without even applying the brakes prior.
Your average bike park goer who is definitely going to be on the brakes far more than a pro DH rider will see more benefit from the heat dissipation.
I agree on the centerline rotors being 💩
the heat transfer to the carrier is wishful thinking. the contact area between the steel and aluminum is so small that the heat will just stay on the steel part. it might help against warping, but even that is questionable. I'm testing out cheap 203mm 2.3mm thick rotors made from a single piece of steel. The idea was to have more mass and more heat shedding capacity. not the case, and they warp pretty badly on long descents, however straighten back up once they cool down.
Stainless steel is a terrible heat conductor, and warps immensely (common knowledge in welding), so the only way I see to prevent warping is to keep the cool with airflow and/or water.
water brake rotors
The loosening of the bolts and squeezing of the lever helps sometimes otherwise once the pistons and pads are centred ….eyeballing is better…sometimes using a shim or two as well ☺️
you're right to use a shim ... ano brake instead of a S-RAM one. Or buy trickstuff stuff, if you have to much money. They are in a different league from everything shown here.
Magura MDR-P?
I just bought MDR-Ps in 220mm and they work great but my god do they rub constantly. Unfortunately they only make the 220mm in 6-bolt and it says not to use with a CL adapter but my hubs are CL and the DT Swiss adapter says its good up to 230mm so I did it anyway. I dont think that would be causing the issue but Im thinking of switching to these hope bc they make CL 220mm and they are a little bit thinner which I think might possibly help with my clearance issues. And Ive tried everything I can think of to stop the slight rub… cleaned & lubed all brake pistons, aligned by eye for hours, Hayes feel’r gauge alignment tool, bleeding the brakes 10 different ways, park rotor alignment tool… I realized rotor alignment is the best option but its a never ending back and forth of adjustments.
i just got my emtb and took it to behind my house i have some trails i finished an green 500m long trail and the rotors are worped, mind you i have them in sram maven ultimate's have to find something that can keep up with the calipers now
Problem with the fantastic Hope 2 piece rotors, the rivets. They interfere with caliper adapters/spacers on two of my builds in 220/200. Make sure they fit!
Preferably use them with hope calipers, considering all the new rotors are 2.3mm thick and won't fit most calipers anyways
I used to have centerlines on my kona operator but i switched them out a few months ago for that same pair of hope rotors and ive never been happier. They're way more grippy and so far i haven't had them run hot on me or squeak
The turbo levo I got has those centerline rotors, and honestly, they don't seem impressive, especially for a 200mm rotor. My front rotor also came slightly bent, so I've ordred a pair of the hope floating rotors, so I hope they make a difference.
You’ll love them. I’ve never met anyone who doesn’t.
@phoxrides I've got a question what type of material do you have on your break pads? I've ordered some for mine and the breaking strength has gone to literally 0. I took it to the bike shop and they looked at it and even checked for contamination but they're thinking it's the pad material
@@SubaruWRC1996funny enough I was planning on making this video soon.
Most MTB pads come in two flavors. Resin/Organic or metallic/sintered.
However a third style, popular in motor racing, is finally gaining popularity.
Stick around for the upcoming video.
@phoxrides Right now I've got sram, which had the metallic pads, and on the hope rotors they aren't doing anything. I took it to a bike shop, and they thought the brakes were contaminated it's that bad. Would organic pads make much of a difference, do you think?
Tried some ceramic break pads and just putting them in got a massive boost to power without even Bedding them in properly yet. Definitely think I've found my preferred break pad.
I haven't had Hope brakes for years, but both sets I had were junk(same with the hubs), I even had their fancy ventilated rotor.
I run Intend rotors now because their science made sense, lots of tiny holes to maximise braking surface area and cooling surface area. Punching big holes in rotors just makes them get hot quicker and wear pads out fast for no real benefit.
The rivets do almost nothing for alignment or heat transfer, stainless is a very poor conductor of heat. Multi piece construction reduces the chance of warping because aluminium expands at a much greater rate than stainless. So even though the hat doesn't get as hot as the braking surface it expands a similar amount.
I'm a fat brake dragger that has tuned rotors black/blue but never warped one.
So just Shimano Ice tech?
Only thicker so they don't wear out so fast
Yes! On all my Bikes 👌
Stop touching the rotors with your finger tips
It’s not that big of a deal unless you have greasy fingers. Plus. Brake cleaner.
@@phoxridesIt’s the grease police 🤣🤗🥳
It's called rubbing alcohol... not a big deal. And not needed for moto at all
dont forget before you tighten the bolts to "pre load" the disk but twisting it counter close wise (Alice edit: CLOCKWISE!) so the disk doesnt slip after everything is tight.
Great point!
@FinalChunk_ fuck me i was living in a mirror again. thanks for the correction
I run SwisStop!!
Seems you need to understand the role that the materials, their thickness and the DIAMETER of the rotor contribute to effective performance
I used the hopes and the very cheap floating rotors you find on ali, both have way better results than ice tech or 2mm galfers.
If you're looking for another efficient option is going solid but with more mass and thickness, 2.3mm + but yeah these B are heavy 😂
This is a terrible comparison and shows a lack of understanding.
1. You are comparing floating rotors to fixed rotors-apples and oranges.
2. SRAM centerline X and XR are both floating rotors and used on pro bikes today, both road and mountain.
3. Shimano XT and XTR are also floating rotors and their Ice-tech technology are first class among enduro and downhill due to them being 3 layers, aluminum sandwich between 2 outer steel plates.
4. Floating rotors are not there to dissipate heat like you said, that is just a nice side-effect just like suspension on a bike is not designed for your comfort but for wheel tracking. A floating rotor is to allow the metal to flex under constant high heat to prevent warping.
5. You do NOT need floating rotors on your bike, motorcycle or car for good braking. 99% of vehicles purchased use a fix rotor design and they go much, much faster than any bike.
6. I can’t speak on the quality of Hope-they are popular-but both SRAM and Shimano use a coating on their rotors to prevent rusting which IMHO is more important because a contaminated rotor will not mate well with the pads and there diminish braking power.
7. Lastly, there are the pads and calipers to contend with so rotors are only one component of braking.
none of those are "floating" whatsoever
It's not that they're popular. Hope Tech has been manufacturing disc brakes since 1991, way long before Shimano which only had cantilevers at that time and SRAM didn't even exist. I think they know something about brakes.
Ive ridden bikes for 4 plus decades. Pedal as well a motocross and streetbikes.
Also have a ton of track experience on both street and track.
This is a wash. Bikes and even ebikes dont weigh anywhere near as much as a motorcycle and my KTM Duke is much faster in 1st gear than any either a bike or an ebike.
This whole comparison is laughable.
Trickstuff Dächle!
Try Galfer Shark ;)
i have them but regardless of what im doing or which pads I'm using, they won't shut up :( but beside the sound issue, they're a 10/10 in everything else
@@tehalexy hmmm strange my made some noises, than quiet, sometimes they yank but there's only the sound of " bite " :D
as he puts his fingers on the part of the rotor you don't want finger oils on... ;)
🤣 first thing I noticed. Too funny
Its not a big deal unless you never wash your hands. Or just ate a fried chicken. Plus a little brake clean makes it GTG.
grease police 🤣🥳
@@phoxrides doesn’t matter. You always have oil ‘s on your fingers.
@@pedallinraw ha.
The hopes are nice discs but it is not the carrier that makes the different. I have 230 pounds naked and brakes are a big thing due to that. The big different is the thickness of the disc. Normal discs have 1.8 mm thickness. I kill this discs in one day. I am using discs with a thickness of 2,3 mm. They fit perfekt with hope v4 brakes. They are made out of one peace. They do for what they made for. Just braking perfectly. No squeezing or rubbing. Never had heat problems. My last bike is a gravel. There are only 180 mm discs allowed. Big problem. Normally I run 203 mm. First I mounted exactly the hope rotor that you are promoting. I run down with 90 km/ hour and had to brake down to 15 km/ h. I had a brake fading with loss of the front brake. The hope disc was blue do to the heat and dented. I changed the disc and now I am using 2.3 mm puncture disc from brakestuff. In 180. I tested the disc on same hill with same speed. No problem. More and more brands offer discs with more thickness. To save weight on discs is stupid.
Go watch Flow Mtb on them there the worst to put on they ding out of true to easy to shimano ice tech and sram! I love hope ran them for years but will only run the new vented discs on my tech 4 think they are 2.3mm thick I have shimano 203mm ice tech and full XT on my other bike they are alot better have to say than Hopes floating disc's hate to say it as hope is made here and ran hope components for past 25 year's but when comes to safety of stopping power the new Vented disc's they have are the way forward for hope
😂 bollox