I just noticed this video is 8 years old. The Carb that was selling for $28 to $35 is now selling for $45.00+. Thank you inflation. Very informative -especially the tank vent information.
Kevin I am thankful for you taking the time to create this informative video. This just remedied the issues a FS48 was giving me while trying to trouble shoot it's poor running conditions for a friend of mine. You the man KB!
This is the most impressive explanation of why the carburetor will not prime and explain why it would flooded. I worked all day today trying to solve the problem and got the answer from this video, truly its not worth the time to solve the issue but informative action from experience really pays well, at least I tried.
True .....I know just how you feel .....these carbs are just a pain if you encounter issues like the ones addressed in the video . Its often just in the best interest of the person to purchase a new carb as kits have became a waste of time and money . Glad you enjoyed the video.
I haven't worked on a 2 stroke in 30 years but just found a weed eater and a hedge trimmer in my neighbors trash when the were moving out. I hate to see good equipment go to waste. Time to do some learning. Thanks for the vids.
I had problems starting my Stihl and as I was watching your video this morning, just now (March 15, 2018- 6:30 AM Pacific Time) , God gave me a solution. I went out to the shed, outside, in the cold and got the trimmer, and brought it into the house. I held the carburetor portion on the trimmer next to a heater. After awhile I pushed the bubble to make the fuel flow. Nothing. After a few more tries of heating and testing, I finally got it to start. Apparently, the trimmer, sitting in the cold all winter, caused the fuel not to flow properly. So you can thank God for that new bit of information.
Great informative videos , I’ve just cured a problematic stihl strimmer and a non running stihl saw because of your advice in your videos . Many thanks 👍🏻
I just dealt with my fs110rx not priming. It still ran but wouldn’t prime. I narrowed it down to the pump housing by using a carburetor off another piece of equipment. Now I know what’s inside that is causing my problem. Thank you.
I was able to determine that my FS38 was flooding out (rough running/not idling/ fuel soaked air filter), however I was not able to determine why. Did your mod to the duckbill in the gas cap. Runs perfectly now. Thanks for taking the time to post this tutorial, it saved me a lot of aggravation. Cheers!! Thumbs up and subbed.
Greetings Kevin. Thanks for taking the time for showing us this tutorial. I was going to take my carb apart for my FS45, but, I saw on the auction site that a carb kit(plug, filter, gaskets, carb, fuel line, primer bulb)for $12.00(Aug 2019). I know from other brands of carbs, that the pump action on the small carbs are a joke. And the heat here in Central Texas is not good on anything. If anything, seeing a video that someone does, always reinforces one to take it upon their selves to tackle a home repair. Thank you and gave a thumbs up for sure.
Kevin, thanks for a great video. I'm usually pretty good with 2 cycles but I have a Stihl MS180 that has spark, compression, carb kit etc. that just won't start due to immediate flooding. Nowhere else have I found an explanation of the check valves in these carburetors. I never could understand the recommendation to buy a new one instead of just cleaning and installing a kit. I have a carb on order. Thanks so much for taking time to explain this. Ken
Thank you those are very kind words. And truly thank you for being a respectful viewer. I try to always provide facts along with my videos .....Sadly not every viewer allows it to resonate with clarity mostly because the are sold on idealisms . Its refreshing to have comments like yours to allow one and all to see why videos I post are worth while .
True / I have over 25 plus years of experience ......Seen many different brands .....Thanks for being a respectful viewer as well as the nice comment .I hope this video may have helped.
Great video the for all the good ideas to check on why mine don't like to run.. My trimmer will be hard starting hard to rev up with out stalling and once at peak rpm don't let off or she dies....lol.. but it's run hard for 7 years with no problems till now so what you said about changing the carb every 2 years I'm glad I don't have that problem... i only use marine fuel and at the end of season I run fuel stable with a wee bit of Lucas fuel system cleaner the oil base one for he last tank.
thank you Keven thought that was awesome really useful information helped me understand the workings of the carby can see the reasoning why it would be better to replace a carb rather than fix it if the check valves are faulty so many practical tips liked the tip about the vent on the cap
Well Thank you brent tamatea.....and I am glad you found the video helpful. Viewers like you are always appreciated ....So thanks for the kind comment .
Thanks for posting Kevin. Thought my no start issue was fuel related. I replaced the carb and still had a no start. Tried every adjustment I could and it just wouldn't fire. I was cussing my FS55 until I saw you bit on the spark arrestor. I pulled it out, found it completely clogged, cleaned it and it fired right up.
Great video, Never heard of a spark arrestor on one of these engines... went thru the carb twice and everything else I could think of including the fuel filter and hoses... The exhaust spark arrestor was clogged and the engine could not rev up... Thanks!! It is humming again!!! G Green / Texas
Explains why my Stihl 028 saw still won't run correctly. Not one saw video I've seen & I've seen em all, explained anything more than clean & change gaskets, needle, seat, ect. Did all that, still isn't correct. Thanks for a great video.
True....Not many will be as honest as I was simply because they wont you to purchase carb kits . Knowing very well the neoprene is the real problem as it swells over time because of the Sh&T gas we have to contend with .
I noticed that my FS-74 wasn't priming as well as it used to nor did it have quite the power. It's still running well enough for now, but I suspect I'll be buying a carb for it if not next season then the one after. Exceptionally good info!
Hi, thanks for this video, because of it I was able to strip down my FS38 line trimmer carb, I took great care with the whole process, but on re-assembly , the unit still produced the same running results. The motor would start on choke, and would run on part choke, but died when adjusted to no choke, so I thought it was a blocked main jet. I learnt off this video about the Spark Arrester, I didn't even know it had one! may be clogged up. It was difficult to remove due to the build up of carbon. Cleaned and re-assemble and she runs like a rocket!! Advice, start your fix with the spark arrester. Thanks Kevin Auckland NZ (age 82)
RUclipsrs I hope everyone out there understands although I showed the to main causes of these carbs failures . The leading cause for the problems is simply your quality of gas. It is Imperative that you use clean gas and Stihl gasoline mix. Do not use marine style mix or the cheaper mixes found at local dollar stores. {If you must and you cant find Stihl mix you can use FD rated oil from Red Max.....Or Husqvarna as they own Red Max now.] But as I said if you cant find FD rated oil then {DO NOT SUBSTITUTE ANY OTHER MIX FOR THE EQUIPMENT } I see carbs and equipment daily that people have ruined due to bad mix and for a example check out my recent video {Why Dumb asses and Chainsaws don't mix.}
Kevin Bolin, I could not agree more.I buy and see stuff all the time that will not start.I try to get a history that tells me.What I find is, most people have no clue about gas or two stroke engine.They will buy crap mix or crap gas.Also will leave the gas sit all winter or can on concrete floor.Crap gas turns bad people.It sits and builds a gum so to say in the lines and carb.Swells up things in carb and destorys.Also for those that drain gas out tank, no go.You got to drain and start.Gas still is in carb.Want longer years, want a fast start and smooth run, use 90 gas NO ETHANOL ( ethanol, the crap that wrecks two stroke carbs ).I use that and Sthil mix in grey bottle.Many years with my FS55 and 56RC and no issues.
Thanks for the Video. Ready to throw my HS 45 in the garbage until I trimmed the duck bill as you suggested. Fired right up and now doesn't stall under throttle. Peace out.
Kevin, I have a Stihl BG 56 Blower. HAve always maintained it used Stihl oil gas etc. Last fall, I ran out of gas and after refueling it was always hard to start. (would flood super fast. After 25 or 30 pulls, would finally start and then run great. This spring I decided to replace the carb. Sold by The ROP Shop and Fulfilled by Amazon. • New CARBURETOR Carb Carby • Fits Stihl 4241-120-0615 BG56 BG56C BG 56 56C Leaf Blower Motors • Replaces Stihl: 4241-120-0615 • Replaces Zama: C1M-S260B • Quality Aftermarket Part with 1 Year Warranty Installed it today, primed it 5 times switched choke on, and it fired right up. It ran great for 20 -30 minutes, then I noticed it was beginning to hesitate when I would accelerate.. then it didn't want to idle and finally stalled. I tried priming and now cannot get any gas in to the bulb.The bulb presses down as expected, springs back to normal -but dry- position., Please help me out...Thank you, Ken
Hard to believe a check valve costs as much as an after market carburetor, not to mention the considerable satisfaction some of us get repairing a carb.
William often the cost of a check valve will far exceed the price of a aftermarket carb because the aftermarket carb is simply junk . China offers these aftermarket carbs knowing there a second rate alternative that they can capitalize upon and more and more people fall prey to the price point simply to ruin there piece of equipment because they pinched that saved 10 dollars. Now I know we are all guilty of trying to save money but be warned these aftermarket carbs are not OEM carbs and are put together with the cheapest of materials available …….meaning the neoprene used may not be treated to hold up to modern gasolines and can as well as often will swell in a shorter time than the higher quality neoprene or viton used in higher quality OEM carbs . Now with this being said {YES} I realize that indeed China makes many diaphragm kits as well as carbs {OEM} for higher end equipment . But still to reiterate they are OEM not the cheaper alternatives with untreated neoprene . NOW WILLIAM in regards to the considerable satisfaction aspect that some of use receive in repairing a carb ……..{NO DOUBT IT CAN BE GRATIFYING} But pride is a fools way of seeking praise …..Let me explain before you misinterpret my intent of this comment …...Granted one can purchase a aftermarket carb …….Granted it may work flawlessly upon placing it on the equipment for a week or two …...But do you know what happens when the gas starts to break down after 30 days in one of these cheap aftermarket carbs ? The carb starts to fail because of tarnish or neoprene swells forcing the need of a carb adjustment ……..Or so one believes …….So they reach for there adjusting screwdrivers and start twisting the high and low speed mixture screws never realizing there unintentionally leading there equipment to a failure ……..Often a scorn piston or cylinder …...But there determination and obdurate forward attitude must prevail …….{Because this is how daddy did it mentality could never be wrong}…...And in honesty William this mentality is why these cheaper alternatives are available …..But let me pass on some honest advice if your willing to accept it …..Don't be tempted to reach for that adjusting screwdriver on equipment made in the last 10 years in less you own a tachometer as you can and often will burn up your equipment . The critical fuel to air ratios are imperative to be accurate to avoid failure . And sadly enough most do it there selfers don't have the proper pressure or vac testing equipment as well to test for air leaks from seals , impuse lines, clam shells or base caps …..So what they do is try to tune out a small air leak …..Remember that critical air to fuel Ratio mentioned earlier ? Yelp you guessed it if a leaking seal or impulse line is causing it you have just tuned that carb to a failure state . SO IN SHORT ALWAYS BUY OEM IF YOU CAN AFFORD IT …..I often will tell my customers if they are determined to have me rebuild a chainsaw for example that I refuse to place any aftermarket quality parts on the equipment with the exception of seals and or cylinder {JUGS} for this very reason.
@@kevinbolin7665 Thanks for the time and effort you took to generate such an extensive reply. You know whereof you speak and I shall only take some exception to "pride is a fool's way of seeking praise"--cleverly put and in some people likely true. I believe I was referring more to satisfaction which is an OK goal/result to my way of thinking. P.S. I remain unconvinced a check valve can cost more than a carburetor (especially an OEM).
I have that same trimmer and replaced coil, carb, fuel lines, filer and air filter but it still will not run. The coil seems to be the issue, it's firing but not with a strong enough spark to ignite the fuel. Have you ever encountered a weak coil issue from an after market coil?
My fs130 carb primer block stop priming, found spring, silver plug with hole in it loose under primer bulb!???? Was it a check valve?? Try putting it back in body , something is missing??? Ball or something missing goes between spring and silver plug??
I have a FS 46. Diaphragm under primmer bulb dried out and became brittle. Was also having intermittent spark issues. Ordered a complete rebuild kit -new carb, plug, coil, fuel lines and filter and air filter. Replaced everything. Gapped the coil with a business card. Primmer seems to be pushing fuel back into the tank via the return line but nothing is going into the cylinder. Every time I prime and try to start, nothing. And when I pull the plug out, it’s still dry. Do I need to adjust the jets? Are they closed off? Is the needle valve sticking for some unknown reason? One would think all that would be preset on a brand new carb.
The metering diaphram is holding the needle valve open. That allows gas to flow thru the carb into the crankcase. Rebuild the carb or get a new 1 on Amazon for $15.
I think these newer machines are engineered to fail to keep their dealers and service techs busy. Ive had nothing but trouble with every stihl, echo and husqavarna ive bought in the last 5 years. However all my my pre 1980s 2 stroke equiptment never gives me trouble. You can leave fuel in there for a year and they will start and run all day. Service techs say its the modern fuel however how can equipment designed in the past 5 years have lower telerence to e10 then equiptment made pre 90s.
my fs 80r leaks gas from carb when stored in shed. awesome weed eater sill looks new but now I have this problem. was thinking of new carb or kit Im going to give the cut in the duck bill a shot. The worst that could happen I have to buy new cap. thanks for the video
I hope by making the small cut to the duck bill or tank vent fixes your issue .Most the time it will certainly fix a over pressuring tank from over powering the needle valve in the carb …..However you may still wont to at a min purchase a new carb kit just because of the viton tip on the needle as it must not be distorted due to the over pressuring of the tank ..
Very welcome ....glad to have helped {insist on a vac and pressure test to be preformed if you intend on taking it to the dealer.} Seals and air leaks can cause this issue as well / but in honesty I would say you have a faulty check valve in the carb due to old fuel ....Remember gasolines in gas jugs or gas cans should be used up in 30 days after purchasing if the gas cans hold any less than 2 gallons {60 days if stabilizers are added } and never leave gasoline stored in small engine equipment that you know will not be used in a long period of time . Its recommend that you start each piece of equipment with fresh gasoline at least once every 30 days of storage .
i know this is old but i found out a long time ago like the year they started screwing up our fuel with ethanol ,if you use 100ll aviation fuel mixed with a good quality oil you do not ever have starting or running problems in other words you do not swell rubber and other sealing materials because there is no ethanol and av gas has a very very long shelf life and no additives to gunk up orifices that should not be clogged
Hi Kevin I have a Stihl fs45c when I prime it fuel comes out of a small hole at the top right hand side of the carb it seems to have a valve inside could you please tell me what this is and what it does. The holeis at the end of the throttle shaft thanks.
Im working on one that pressures up the fuel system and floods out just from heat it can sit and will empty the entire gas tank into the engine.. Im guessing it has a bad check.
What happens if the carburettor what country doesn't have the primer ball listen for the private but it but it does get fuel if you put fuel into the carburettor
I bought a 2nd hand stihl fs 55 rc and it only bogs down when i flip it up upside down to do edges, it works great when i use it to flat cut. Anyone else got the same issue?
Hi my stihl fs 55 making weird sound, its like plastic knocking into plastic. This sound is coming from engine somewhere . At idle it is more noticeable, sometime it stop knocking fot 2-3 seconds and agian start knocking . I have removed clutch completely but its still there. This engine is only 1 year old and piston is in very good condition. If you have any suggestion please reply as soon as possible.
Check the flex cable or rod ....make sure the inner plastic collar used to house the flex cable for the shaft isn't worn out {this can cause just enough vibration to make the clutch chatter often sounding like the engine is grinding or pinning against plastic.
I have removed whole drive shaft and clutch but it still make this knocking plastic sound without clutch and drive shaft. Any other way to make this knocking dissappear.
I own a McCulloch string trimmer that starts and runs but when I give it full throttle it picks up the gas but then bogs down and stalls out within 5 seconds. I thoroughly cleaned the carburetor with carburetor cleaner and a soft thin copper wire. I did not puncture the neoprene but I adjusted the mixture screws. How do I fix that?
First I recommend you test for a vac and pressure leak on the trimmer / then pressure test the carb and fuel lines .....Note you should also check the tank to insure your tank vent is working properly . The trimmer should hold a pressure of at the very least 5 psi but don't over pressure the trimmer with more than 7 psi as you could damage the seals ......The carb should also be capable of holding at least 5 psi with no leakage { If any leakage exist from the carb or engine you will need to purchase a carb kit for the carb or as I have found in many cases a new carb due to modern gasolines effect on the carbs internal parts {check valves}. And if the engine has a leak weather it be vac or pressure you will need to check it with a spray bottle full of soapy water lightly spraying the intake area{bellow} Support caps that are sealed with gaskets or permatex and seals looking for bubbles that are increasing in size while applying pressure or vac to the engine . { NOTE IN MOST CASES } it can be more expensive to fix a seal leak than what a trimmer is worth if the trimmer has any age or abuse .....That's why most dealers wont to sale you a new trimmer.........And in truth in less you have a real high quality trimmer really wouldn't be worth the money long term to have the repair done . IF you don't have a pressure and vac kit for small engines you can purchase a brake bleeding kit from most automotive part stores as the pumps work perfectly in the same way as the small engine kits . However you will have to purchase blocker plates or neoprene rubber 1/8 inch thick in 12X12 squares and cut out you own ....For a better understanding of how this process is done check out my video on how to pressure test a Stihl chainsaw as it will show you the tools needed .
I do not know how to do a vac and pressure test for a leak. I sprayed carb cleaner into the high fuel speed mixture screw orifice and blew compressed air into that orifice and that fixed the problem.
Good day I have a FS55 stihl wacker that is not giving me the full power when ever I'm cutting and I am burning more gas than usual,would like to know what might be the problem and thanks in advance.
Ok...I would recommend removing the muffler as well as spark arrester that's placed on the end of the muffler...Clean the exhaust port with a small wooden dowel .....Then inspect the muffler {if you like spray it out with some carb cleaner then blow compressed air into the muffler to dry it out ...Lastly and most often the case in a engine that wont deliver full power ....Clean the spark arrester...There will be a screen that will be carbon over and will require a wire brush for cleaning ..
I had the carb fixed at Stihl before watching this video. It started and ran successfully after I got the rebuilt carb back. I just tried to start it and she wouldn't run. I left it, tried again and it ran, but almost like the choke was stuck on, but I was having to give it loads of throttle to keep it going. I've got to check the exhaust as per your instructions, but it seems the problem is the opposite of flooding. If I let it idle down it will just stall. Do you think a plugged jet would be causing this? This time I am ordering a new carb.
No / sadly this is a problem with a check valve being exposed to old fuel . Note that with these small saws request a vac and pressure test to be preformed as this old gasoline may have affected seals .
Hi keven. I can prime my carburettor on a Stihl hs45 but I can't get fuel to come up through the jet. I've serviced the carburettor and fitted a brand new one yet no fuel will come through to the combustion chamber. Any advice
@@kevinbolin7665 thank you for the reply. When I prime the carb I can see the fuel return line pushing fuel back into the tank. I'll check the filter and fuel supply line tomorrow morning, maybe even change it. Again,I thank you sir
I have a FS80 had what I thought was a carb problem as it wouldn't run unless on choke and then I couldn't adjust it to run any more than idle. The new carb did the same thing. I replace the fuel line and the fuel filter. It starts right up but my be almost full choke and nothing over a idle... no matter what the needle is set at. Has a new spark plug installed as well. Where do I go from here.
Pressure and vac test the Fs80 as you likely have a air leak ...Seals over time will become hard or even swell due to modern gasolines effects ......as a result the lips of the seals can not grip the crankshafts therefore critical air to gas ratios change internally ....as out side air introduced threw the seals can and will change performance often even scoring the equipment. People often try tuning carbs around these issues only to burn up there equipment .
I have a Stihl FS45/46 (can't remember which) but I replaced the Carb, Fuel lines, Filter and spark plug on it. I run Premium gas with Stihl oil. It will start and idle but when I give it gas it dies. What could be the problem? Thanks
I have a FS55R and have replaced the fuel line, carburetor, and spark plug. Even cleaned the spark arrestor. I use the already mixed fuel from Stihl and my weedeater wont start anymore. Any ideas?
Ok ...first are the replaced fuel lines, carburetor, and spark plug OEM or aftermarket ? IF there not OEM then you likely have a issue with the aftermarket carbs as the quality just isn't what one would hope or expect . They typically are eye candy on ebay because of the price but often wont work because of the quality . If they are OEM then check for spark ....note sometimes a faulty kill switch can be a issue on these trimmers . If you dont have spark remove the muffler and insure it isn't clogged with carbon .....if your model has a built in converter on the muffler it can be faulty .....Also check the piston by visually inspecting the export opening if there is any signs of scoring then you likely would be better off purchasing a new trimmer . Although this isn't likely in less you really have tallied up some hours on the trimmer you may wont to consider even pressure and vac testing the trimmer for leaking seals .
Kevin Bolin thanks for the response. Yes it is a after market carburetor (purchased from an authorized stihl store). But the problem arose before the change in carburetors. Either way looks like an excuse to buy a new trimmer.
I have a question about a fs55r gas tank/cap. With the cap sealed on the tank...should this system hold pressure/ vacuum.. ? It is my understanding that there should be no leakage of outside air to the tank...( no vent)
No the tank vent should allow pressures internal from the tank to be vented . So what happens often is modern gasolines swell this duck bill and over pressure the carb resulting in flooding or vapor locking the tank from venting threw the caps tank vent witch starves the trimmer from gas .
Simple answer .......Cheap ......and if they made any real quality it would impede upon there sales opportunities .......Failures are intended for one purpose....... {SALES}.......but with the mentality of most small engine manufacturers [ service by replacement has became the new norm ] this allows for a higher end on sales ...
Awesome video, new sub, I have one of these lovely machines an FS 55R and I have a terrible compression pull on mine, any idea's? By the way I just replaced my carb. the whole kit for 10 bucks.
No / if the check valve is swollen then the carb is trash ......inless a new check valve is purchased ....And often assuming that the check valve can be purchased it often will exceed the carbs replacement cost . Trying to clean the carb by soaking in carb spray simply wont work because of the high {hot} ethanol ....witch only swells the neoprene or viton even more that the check valves are made of .
Hi Kevin, my FS 38 wont start, I put a new plug in it but still wont go, its like its badly flooded as when I try to start it fuel seems to be coming out the exhaust, maybe the carbie is stuffed, do you have any ideas? cheers
Excellent video Kevin. Im in the process of fixing my FS 55R. It runs good when I am giving it throttle and I can use it, but it dies once I let off of the throttle. Any ideas of where I should start?
@@kevinbolin7665 It will not stay running on its own after I start it....I have to feather the throttle to keep it going. Spark arrestor is clean. It might be a little boggy but not too bad. It reminds me of an issue I had on my MS361 saw...small crack in impulse line.
Kevin Bolin, off topic, but curious about something.I see you have had hands on alot of stuff.I never atempted, but need to know.Issue is, I have a Sthil Trimmer FS45.Guy is selling me one for $15 won't start.Fig I'll roll the dice fig bad crap gas carb or arrestor being he had in shop 2 yrs ago and Sthil said issue at that time was arrestor.So, it's curved shaft pole etc.I hate curved.If I had a straight Sthil with that gearing and head around same mod # as the FS45 what is odds of working?Be all orig Sthil named just seeing if I can take another Sthil that is straight pole that already has the gearing and head and slide in 45 case? Or I'm 100% sol won't work.
Yes it will work on a fs 55 Stihl but the 45 will lack power .....Still it will interchange form a curved to a straight shaft with very little effort .
Kevin Bolin, thanks for reply.I understand about lack of power.That is, I do question how much lack or if the FS45 will still cut alright for basic short lawn cuts.My plan is, to find a Sthil trimmer that is toasted except head, gearing, the pole and guts inside pole.Swap to the 45 toss the 45 curved shaft etc aside.I got to get this FS45 first from seller.But I have the FS56 RC.Although the 56rc is fine, I may try a swap just to see if.Any event that was my curious before I brought this FS45.As in if any hope I could swap for straight from some other Sthil trimmers.Thanks for input.
It could be just the primer ....depending on the condition ......However if I was a gambling man I would say.... {I would replace the carb } because often is the case modern gasoline has taken its toll on the carb.
They are cheap and often will not work . They also often leak past the inlet needle and flood the equipment . Not recommended as a replacement over OEM .....
I just noticed this video is 8 years old. The Carb that was selling for $28 to $35 is now selling for $45.00+. Thank you inflation. Very informative -especially the tank vent information.
Thank you for saving me a lot of headaches. This is the only info I've come across that explained the inner workings of the carbs to this extent.
Kevin I am thankful for you taking the time to create this informative video. This just remedied the issues a FS48 was giving me while trying to trouble shoot it's poor running conditions for a friend of mine. You the man KB!
Never in 100years would I have figured out the issue with the gas tank top . Excellent
Thanks for the kind complement ....always glad to help respectful viewers.
This is the most impressive explanation of why the carburetor will not prime and explain why it would flooded. I worked all day today trying to solve the problem and got the answer from this video, truly its not worth the time to solve the issue but informative action from experience really pays well, at least I tried.
True .....I know just how you feel .....these carbs are just a pain if you encounter issues like the ones addressed in the video . Its often just in the best interest of the person to purchase a new carb as kits have became a waste of time and money . Glad you enjoyed the video.
I haven't worked on a 2 stroke in 30 years but just found a weed eater and a hedge trimmer in my neighbors trash when the were moving out. I hate to see good equipment go to waste. Time to do some learning. Thanks for the vids.
Glad to help with any question you may have ...
I had problems starting my Stihl and as I was watching your video this morning, just now (March 15, 2018- 6:30 AM Pacific Time) , God gave me a solution. I went out to the shed, outside, in the cold and got the trimmer, and brought it into the house. I held the carburetor portion on the trimmer next to a heater. After awhile I pushed the bubble to make the fuel flow. Nothing. After a few more tries of heating and testing, I finally got it to start. Apparently, the trimmer, sitting in the cold all winter, caused the fuel not to flow properly. So you can thank God for that new bit of information.
lmao
Thanks a bunch. The frickin gas cap vent has been driving me crazy for a couple years. so simple
Tom Mixer.
Great video I purchased a new carb' for my Stilh blower started first time ,cost 11£ .Thanks again.
What a GREAT video! This is my new standard by which topical repair videos are judged. Nice work!
Great informative videos , I’ve just cured a problematic stihl strimmer and a non running stihl saw because of your advice in your videos . Many thanks 👍🏻
Very welcome ….glad to have helped.
I just dealt with my fs110rx not priming. It still ran but wouldn’t prime. I narrowed it down to the pump housing by using a carburetor off another piece of equipment. Now I know what’s inside that is causing my problem. Thank you.
I was able to determine that my FS38 was flooding out (rough running/not idling/ fuel soaked air filter), however I was not able to determine why. Did your mod to the duckbill in the gas cap. Runs perfectly now. Thanks for taking the time to post this tutorial, it saved me a lot of aggravation. Cheers!!
Thumbs up and subbed.
Welcome....glad to have helped...
Greetings Kevin. Thanks for taking the time for showing us this tutorial. I was going to take my carb apart for my FS45, but,
I saw on the auction site that a carb kit(plug, filter, gaskets, carb, fuel line, primer bulb)for $12.00(Aug 2019). I know from other
brands of carbs, that the pump action on the small carbs are a joke. And the heat here in Central Texas is not good on anything.
If anything, seeing a video that someone does, always reinforces one to take it upon their selves to tackle a home repair. Thank you and gave a thumbs up for sure.
Great video.
The exhaust port can block up before the spark arrester dose so pop the exhaust off and have a look.
Thank you Kevin, Great info and very slow and and no Rush very nicely done. Thank you
Man oh man, your skills and expertise are awesome!
Wish you were my neighbor. 😃
Kevin, thanks for a great video. I'm usually pretty good with 2 cycles but I have a Stihl MS180 that has spark, compression, carb kit etc. that just won't start due to immediate flooding. Nowhere else have I found an explanation of the check valves in these carburetors. I never could understand the recommendation to buy a new one instead of just cleaning and installing a kit. I have a carb on order. Thanks so much for taking time to explain this. Ken
Welcome / glad to have helped.. The modern gasoline just plays hell on these carbs anymore ....Check valves and fuel lines mostly ....
Hello from Ireland I enjoyed your video and like people have said you have a wealth of experience to lean on.
Thank you those are very kind words. And truly thank you for being a respectful viewer. I try to always provide facts along with my videos .....Sadly not every viewer allows it to resonate with clarity mostly because the are sold on idealisms . Its refreshing to have comments like yours to allow one and all to see why videos I post are worth while .
Blocked spark arrestor cleaned and now it tuns better than it has for years. Who ever thought a little maintenance is a good thing?? ;)
This is information that only someone that fixed a load of weed eaters would know. Really useful.
True / I have over 25 plus years of experience ......Seen many different brands .....Thanks for being a respectful viewer as well as the nice comment .I hope this video may have helped.
Thanks for sharing. I’ve got this issue with a Stihl edger. Flooding badly.
Glad you found the video helpful...Always happy to help if I can .
Great video the for all the good ideas to check on why mine don't like to run.. My trimmer will be hard starting hard to rev up with out stalling and once at peak rpm don't let off or she dies....lol.. but it's run hard for 7 years with no problems till now so what you said about changing the carb every 2 years I'm glad I don't have that problem... i only use marine fuel and at the end of season I run fuel stable with a wee bit of Lucas fuel system cleaner the oil base one for he last tank.
Along with others, thank, you saved me time and money. Much appreciated.
thank you Keven thought that was awesome really useful information helped me understand the workings of the carby can see the reasoning why it would be better to replace a carb rather than fix it if the check valves are faulty so many practical tips liked the tip about the vent on the cap
Well Thank you brent tamatea.....and I am glad you found the video helpful. Viewers like you are always appreciated ....So thanks for the kind comment .
Thanks for posting Kevin. Thought my no start issue was fuel related. I replaced the carb and still had a no start. Tried every adjustment I could and it just wouldn't fire. I was cussing my FS55 until I saw you bit on the spark arrestor. I pulled it out, found it completely clogged, cleaned it and it fired right up.
Glad the video helped / you are very welcome.
Great video, Never heard of a spark arrestor on one of these engines... went thru the carb twice and everything else I could think of including the fuel filter and hoses... The exhaust spark arrestor was clogged and the engine could not rev up... Thanks!! It is humming again!!!
G Green / Texas
Welcome/ glad to have helped....
Explains why my Stihl 028 saw still won't run correctly. Not one saw video I've seen & I've seen em all, explained anything more than clean & change gaskets, needle, seat, ect. Did all that, still isn't correct. Thanks for a great video.
True....Not many will be as honest as I was simply because they wont you to purchase carb kits . Knowing very well the neoprene is the real problem as it swells over time because of the Sh&T gas we have to contend with .
I noticed that my FS-74 wasn't priming as well as it used to nor did it have quite the power. It's still running well enough for now, but I suspect I'll be buying a carb for it if not next season then the one after. Exceptionally good info!
Hi, thanks for this video, because of it I was able to strip down my FS38 line trimmer carb, I took great care with the whole process, but on re-assembly , the unit still produced the same running results. The motor would start on choke, and would run on part choke, but died when adjusted to no choke, so I thought it was a blocked main jet. I learnt off this video about the Spark Arrester, I didn't even know it had one! may be clogged up. It was difficult to remove due to the build up of carbon. Cleaned and re-assemble and she runs like a rocket!!
Advice, start your fix with the spark arrester. Thanks Kevin Auckland NZ (age 82)
The easiest and most common way to clean a spark aresstor is to put a torch to the screen until all the carbon is gone.
RUclipsrs I hope everyone out there understands although I showed the to main causes of these carbs failures . The leading cause for the problems is simply your quality of gas. It is Imperative that you use clean gas and Stihl gasoline mix. Do not use marine style mix or the cheaper mixes found at local dollar stores. {If you must and you cant find Stihl mix you can use FD rated oil from Red Max.....Or Husqvarna as they own Red Max now.] But as I said if you cant find FD rated oil then {DO NOT SUBSTITUTE ANY OTHER MIX FOR THE EQUIPMENT } I see carbs and equipment daily that people have ruined due to bad mix and for a example check out my recent video {Why Dumb asses and Chainsaws don't mix.}
Kevin Bolin, I could not agree more.I buy and see stuff all the time that will not start.I try to get a history that tells me.What I find is, most people have no clue about gas or two stroke engine.They will buy crap mix or crap gas.Also will leave the gas sit all winter or can on concrete floor.Crap gas turns bad people.It sits and builds a gum so to say in the lines and carb.Swells up things in carb and destorys.Also for those that drain gas out tank, no go.You got to drain and start.Gas still is in carb.Want longer years, want a fast start and smooth run, use 90 gas NO ETHANOL ( ethanol, the crap that wrecks two stroke carbs ).I use that and Sthil mix in grey bottle.Many years with my FS55 and 56RC and no issues.
If weren't for the dumbasses, you would be out of a job. Lol
@@cherokeesfinestindian True / Cant argue with that logic .
Thanks for the Video. Ready to throw my HS 45 in the garbage until I trimmed the duck bill as you suggested. Fired right up and now doesn't stall under throttle. Peace out.
Excellent video! great information
Excellent video. Thank you very much. One of the best videos I have seen!
Very welcome ....viewers like you make it worth the time and effort ....glad you enjoyed the video.
Kevin, I have a Stihl BG 56 Blower. HAve always maintained it used Stihl oil gas etc. Last fall, I ran out of gas and after refueling it was always hard to start. (would flood super fast. After 25 or 30 pulls, would finally start and then run great. This spring I decided to replace the carb.
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Installed it today, primed it 5 times switched choke on, and it fired right up. It ran great for 20 -30 minutes, then I noticed it was beginning to hesitate when I would accelerate.. then it didn't want to idle and finally stalled. I tried priming and now cannot get any gas in to the bulb.The bulb presses down as expected, springs back to normal -but dry- position., Please help me out...Thank you, Ken
This is interesting I have never tooken one apart
Very informational. Thanks
Great video. Very well done. Congratulation.
This video was just super helpful to me. You're the man, thanks!
Your very welcome /truly glad to have helped / viewers like you make it all worth while ...
very good video for us DIY ers
Hard to believe a check valve costs as much as an after market carburetor, not to mention the considerable satisfaction some of us get repairing a carb.
William often the cost of a check valve will far exceed the price of a aftermarket carb because the aftermarket carb is simply junk . China offers these aftermarket carbs knowing there a second rate alternative that they can capitalize upon and more and more people fall prey to the price point simply to ruin there piece of equipment because they pinched that saved 10 dollars. Now I know we are all guilty of trying to save money but be warned these aftermarket carbs are not OEM carbs and are put together with the cheapest of materials available …….meaning the neoprene used may not be treated to hold up to modern gasolines and can as well as often will swell in a shorter time than the higher quality neoprene or viton used in higher quality OEM carbs . Now with this being said {YES} I realize that indeed China makes many diaphragm kits as well as carbs {OEM} for higher end equipment . But still to reiterate they are OEM not the cheaper alternatives with untreated neoprene . NOW WILLIAM in regards to the considerable satisfaction aspect that some of use receive in repairing a carb ……..{NO DOUBT IT CAN BE GRATIFYING} But pride is a fools way of seeking praise …..Let me explain before you misinterpret my intent of this comment …...Granted one can purchase a aftermarket carb …….Granted it may work flawlessly upon placing it on the equipment for a week or two …...But do you know what happens when the gas starts to break down after 30 days in one of these cheap aftermarket carbs ? The carb starts to fail because of tarnish or neoprene swells forcing the need of a carb adjustment ……..Or so one believes …….So they reach for there adjusting screwdrivers and start twisting the high and low speed mixture screws never realizing there unintentionally leading there equipment to a failure ……..Often a scorn piston or cylinder …...But there determination and obdurate forward attitude must prevail …….{Because this is how daddy did it mentality could never be wrong}…...And in honesty William this mentality is why these cheaper alternatives are available …..But let me pass on some honest advice if your willing to accept it …..Don't be tempted to reach for that adjusting screwdriver on equipment made in the last 10 years in less you own a tachometer as you can and often will burn up your equipment . The critical fuel to air ratios are imperative to be accurate to avoid failure . And sadly enough most do it there selfers don't have the proper pressure or vac testing equipment as well to test for air leaks from seals , impuse lines, clam shells or base caps …..So what they do is try to tune out a small air leak …..Remember that critical air to fuel Ratio mentioned earlier ? Yelp you guessed it if a leaking seal or impulse line is causing it you have just tuned that carb to a failure state . SO IN SHORT ALWAYS BUY OEM IF YOU CAN AFFORD IT …..I often will tell my customers if they are determined to have me rebuild a chainsaw for example that I refuse to place any aftermarket quality parts on the equipment with the exception of seals and or cylinder {JUGS} for this very reason.
@@kevinbolin7665 Thanks for the time and effort you took to generate such an extensive reply. You know whereof you speak and I shall only take some exception to "pride is a fool's way of seeking praise"--cleverly put and in some people likely true. I believe I was referring more to satisfaction which is an OK goal/result to my way of thinking.
P.S. I remain unconvinced a check valve can cost more than a carburetor (especially an OEM).
Great video. So informative. Keep the great videos coming!
Thank you viewers like you make these videos worth while . Glad to have helped.
Thanks for the excellent video , just what I was looking for .
Great and simple explanation Thanks from N I reland
I have that same trimmer and replaced coil, carb, fuel lines, filer and air filter but it still will not run. The coil seems to be the issue, it's firing but not with a strong enough spark to ignite the fuel. Have you ever encountered a weak coil issue from an after market coil?
Great info! Thanks for the video.
Good video Kevin ,you gave me hope .
My fs130 carb primer block stop priming, found spring, silver plug with hole in it loose under primer bulb!???? Was it a check valve?? Try putting it back in body , something is missing??? Ball or something missing goes between spring and silver plug??
Kevin: great video. Hopefully I can use the info provided to get my FS46 started. Thanks
Thanks for sharing Well presented
I have a FS 46. Diaphragm under primmer bulb dried out and became brittle. Was also having intermittent spark issues. Ordered a complete rebuild kit -new carb, plug, coil, fuel lines and filter and air filter. Replaced everything. Gapped the coil with a business card. Primmer seems to be pushing fuel back into the tank via the return line but nothing is going into the cylinder. Every time I prime and try to start, nothing. And when I pull the plug out, it’s still dry. Do I need to adjust the jets? Are they closed off? Is the needle valve sticking for some unknown reason? One would think all that would be preset on a brand new carb.
I got a Stihl fs120 I push the primer bulb the exhaust fills up with gas and it only runs with choke on what do you think wrong with it
The metering diaphram is holding the needle valve open. That allows gas to flow thru the carb into the crankcase. Rebuild the carb or get a new 1 on Amazon for $15.
I think these newer machines are engineered to fail to keep their dealers and service techs busy. Ive had nothing but trouble with every stihl, echo and husqavarna ive bought in the last 5 years. However all my my pre 1980s 2 stroke equiptment never gives me trouble. You can leave fuel in there for a year and they will start and run all day. Service techs say its the modern fuel however how can equipment designed in the past 5 years have lower telerence to e10 then equiptment made pre 90s.
Very helpful video thanks.
Well thankyou for being a respectful viewer / always glad to help .
my fs 80r leaks gas from carb when stored in shed. awesome weed eater sill looks new but now I have this problem. was thinking of new carb or kit Im going to give the cut in the duck bill a shot. The worst that could happen I have to buy new cap. thanks for the video
I hope by making the small cut to the duck bill or tank vent fixes your issue .Most the time it will certainly fix a over pressuring tank from over powering the needle valve in the carb …..However you may still wont to at a min purchase a new carb kit just because of the viton tip on the needle as it must not be distorted due to the over pressuring of the tank ..
Dang good video kevin didn't know you can fix a gas cap and the carb video are great tganks
Thank you Kevin, great video.
Very welcome ....glad to have helped {insist on a vac and pressure test to be preformed if you intend on taking it to the dealer.} Seals and air leaks can cause this issue as well / but in honesty I would say you have a faulty check valve in the carb due to old fuel ....Remember gasolines in gas jugs or gas cans should be used up in 30 days after purchasing if the gas cans hold any less than 2 gallons {60 days if stabilizers are added } and never leave gasoline stored in small engine equipment that you know will not be used in a long period of time . Its recommend that you start each piece of equipment with fresh gasoline at least once every 30 days of storage .
i know this is old but i found out a long time ago like the year they started screwing up our fuel with ethanol ,if you use 100ll aviation fuel mixed with a good quality oil you do not ever have starting or running problems in other words you do not swell rubber and other sealing materials because there is no ethanol and av gas has a very very long shelf life and no additives to gunk up orifices that should not be clogged
If you are not close to an airport you can buy the fuel in a can premix at any big box store. It's not 100LL but it does not have ethanol. Just FYI.
Very good well explained. They are junk carby
Very good information 👍 thanks
Glad to have helped..
It is a fantastic video. Thats why i say. New carb!!!.
Thanks...
Hi Kevin I have a Stihl fs45c when I prime it fuel comes out of a small hole at the top right hand side of the carb it seems to have a valve inside could you please tell me what this is and what it does. The holeis at the end of the throttle shaft thanks.
Im working on one that pressures up the fuel system and floods out just from heat it can sit and will empty the entire gas tank into the engine.. Im guessing it has a bad check.
Could be ....Or it could be just a faulty needle and seat .
What happens if the carburettor what country doesn't have the primer ball listen for the private but it but it does get fuel if you put fuel into the carburettor
My hl94 hedgetrimmdr leaks oil out off the muffler any idea whats the problem???
I bought a 2nd hand stihl fs 55 rc and it only bogs down when i flip it up upside down to do edges, it works great when i use it to flat cut. Anyone else got the same issue?
Great video thanks for sharing
Hi sir can you give me detail witch carbourater is best for cobra air blower
Hi my stihl fs 55 making weird sound, its like plastic knocking into plastic. This sound is coming from engine somewhere . At idle it is more noticeable, sometime it stop knocking fot 2-3 seconds and agian start knocking . I have removed clutch completely but its still there. This engine is only 1 year old and piston is in very good condition. If you have any suggestion please reply as soon as possible.
Check the flex cable or rod ....make sure the inner plastic collar used to house the flex cable for the shaft isn't worn out {this can cause just enough vibration to make the clutch chatter often sounding like the engine is grinding or pinning against plastic.
I have removed whole drive shaft and clutch but it still make this knocking plastic sound without clutch and drive shaft. Any other way to make this knocking dissappear.
Thanks bud I really appreciate it
Great video!
I own a McCulloch string trimmer that starts and runs but when I give it full throttle it picks up the gas but then bogs down and stalls out within 5 seconds. I thoroughly cleaned the carburetor with carburetor cleaner and a soft thin copper wire. I did not puncture the neoprene but I adjusted the mixture screws. How do I fix that?
First I recommend you test for a vac and pressure leak on the trimmer / then pressure test the carb and fuel lines .....Note you should also check the tank to insure your tank vent is working properly . The trimmer should hold a pressure of at the very least 5 psi but don't over pressure the trimmer with more than 7 psi as you could damage the seals ......The carb should also be capable of holding at least 5 psi with no leakage { If any leakage exist from the carb or engine you will need to purchase a carb kit for the carb or as I have found in many cases a new carb due to modern gasolines effect on the carbs internal parts {check valves}. And if the engine has a leak weather it be vac or pressure you will need to check it with a spray bottle full of soapy water lightly spraying the intake area{bellow} Support caps that are sealed with gaskets or permatex and seals looking for bubbles that are increasing in size while applying pressure or vac to the engine . { NOTE IN MOST CASES } it can be more expensive to fix a seal leak than what a trimmer is worth if the trimmer has any age or abuse .....That's why most dealers wont to sale you a new trimmer.........And in truth in less you have a real high quality trimmer really wouldn't be worth the money long term to have the repair done . IF you don't have a pressure and vac kit for small engines you can purchase a brake bleeding kit from most automotive part stores as the pumps work perfectly in the same way as the small engine kits . However you will have to purchase blocker plates or neoprene rubber 1/8 inch thick in 12X12 squares and cut out you own ....For a better understanding of how this process is done check out my video on how to pressure test a Stihl chainsaw as it will show you the tools needed .
I do not know how to do a vac and pressure test for a leak. I sprayed carb cleaner into the high fuel speed mixture screw orifice and blew compressed air into that orifice and that fixed the problem.
Good day I have a FS55 stihl wacker that is not giving me the full power when ever I'm cutting and I am burning more gas than usual,would like to know what might be the problem and thanks in advance.
Ok...I would recommend removing the muffler as well as spark arrester that's placed on the end of the muffler...Clean the exhaust port with a small wooden dowel .....Then inspect the muffler {if you like spray it out with some carb cleaner then blow compressed air into the muffler to dry it out ...Lastly and most often the case in a engine that wont deliver full power ....Clean the spark arrester...There will be a screen that will be carbon over and will require a wire brush for cleaning ..
I had the carb fixed at Stihl before watching this video. It started and ran successfully after I got the rebuilt carb back. I just tried to start it and she wouldn't run. I left it, tried again and it ran, but almost like the choke was stuck on, but I was having to give it loads of throttle to keep it going. I've got to check the exhaust as per your instructions, but it seems the problem is the opposite of flooding. If I let it idle down it will just stall. Do you think a plugged jet would be causing this? This time I am ordering a new carb.
No / sadly this is a problem with a check valve being exposed to old fuel . Note that with these small saws request a vac and pressure test to be preformed as this old gasoline may have affected seals .
Hi keven. I can prime my carburettor on a Stihl hs45 but I can't get fuel to come up through the jet. I've serviced the carburettor and fitted a brand new one yet no fuel will come through to the combustion chamber.
Any advice
Check your fuel filter as well as your fuel line if you have purchased a new carb .
@@kevinbolin7665 thank you for the reply. When I prime the carb I can see the fuel return line pushing fuel back into the tank. I'll check the filter and fuel supply line tomorrow morning, maybe even change it. Again,I thank you sir
I have a FS80 had what I thought was a carb problem as it wouldn't run unless on choke and then I couldn't adjust it to run any more than idle. The new carb did the same thing. I replace the fuel line and the fuel filter. It starts right up but my be almost full choke and nothing over a idle... no matter what the needle is set at. Has a new spark plug installed as well. Where do I go from here.
Pressure and vac test the Fs80 as you likely have a air leak ...Seals over time will become hard or even swell due to modern gasolines effects ......as a result the lips of the seals can not grip the crankshafts therefore critical air to gas ratios change internally ....as out side air introduced threw the seals can and will change performance often even scoring the equipment. People often try tuning carbs around these issues only to burn up there equipment .
Would this pertain to the MS 55 mini tiller? Mine starts, but then dies. I'm hoping it's just old gas. I haven't tried fresh gas in it yet.
Absolutely / there carbs are made in much the same way internally .
Good video , thanks man. I'm guessing your from West Virginia ? We say "plars" too . Ha ha ! Thanks man
45 min from state cap here, Parkersburg Wv wavin....
Pretty close......Casey County..... Kentucky
I have a Stihl FS45/46 (can't remember which) but I replaced the Carb, Fuel lines, Filter and spark plug on it. I run Premium gas with Stihl oil. It will start and idle but when I give it gas it dies. What could be the problem? Thanks
Check the spark arrestor in the muffler as it could be clogged .
why use neoprene, why not a steel ball. is it cheaper to do so.
Thank your great help,
What causes the neoprene swell?
I have a FS55R and have replaced the fuel line, carburetor, and spark plug. Even cleaned the spark arrestor. I use the already mixed fuel from Stihl and my weedeater wont start anymore. Any ideas?
Ok ...first are the replaced fuel lines, carburetor, and spark plug OEM or aftermarket ? IF there not OEM then you likely have a issue with the aftermarket carbs as the quality just isn't what one would hope or expect . They typically are eye candy on ebay because of the price but often wont work because of the quality . If they are OEM then check for spark ....note sometimes a faulty kill switch can be a issue on these trimmers . If you dont have spark remove the muffler and insure it isn't clogged with carbon .....if your model has a built in converter on the muffler it can be faulty .....Also check the piston by visually inspecting the export opening if there is any signs of scoring then you likely would be better off purchasing a new trimmer . Although this isn't likely in less you really have tallied up some hours on the trimmer you may wont to consider even pressure and vac testing the trimmer for leaking seals .
Kevin Bolin thanks for the response. Yes it is a after market carburetor (purchased from an authorized stihl store). But the problem arose before the change in carburetors. Either way looks like an excuse to buy a new trimmer.
I have a question about a fs55r gas tank/cap. With the cap sealed on the tank...should this system hold pressure/ vacuum.. ? It is my understanding that there should be no leakage of outside air to the tank...( no vent)
No the tank vent should allow pressures internal from the tank to be vented . So what happens often is modern gasolines swell this duck bill and over pressure the carb resulting in flooding or vapor locking the tank from venting threw the caps tank vent witch starves the trimmer from gas .
@@kevinbolin7665 thank you for replying!
Great video
Why do they still use neoprene if it causes problems
Thanks again.
Tom Mixer.
Simple answer .......Cheap ......and if they made any real quality it would impede upon there sales opportunities .......Failures are intended for one purpose....... {SALES}.......but with the mentality of most small engine manufacturers [ service by replacement has became the new norm ] this allows for a higher end on sales ...
Awesome video, new sub, I have one of these lovely machines an FS 55R and I have a terrible compression pull on mine, any idea's? By the way I just replaced my carb. the whole kit for 10 bucks.
can you spray them with carb cleaner and leave them to soak in it?
No / if the check valve is swollen then the carb is trash ......inless a new check valve is purchased ....And often assuming that the check valve can be purchased it often will exceed the carbs replacement cost . Trying to clean the carb by soaking in carb spray simply wont work because of the high {hot} ethanol ....witch only swells the neoprene or viton even more that the check valves are made of .
I think the neoprene in my pump has swollen. How do I fix that? New piece or trim it?
You don't....just purchase a new carb
Hi Kevin, my FS 38 wont start, I put a new plug in it but still wont go, its like its badly flooded as when I try to start it fuel seems to be coming out the exhaust, maybe the carbie is stuffed, do you have any ideas? cheers
Def...The carb {very simple fix} cheap as well ......Buy a new carb .......They cost about 26 dollars typically .
@@kevinbolin7665 cool thanks Kevin
Are the carbs your replacing made by Stihl ? Very informative
I have replaced carb coil plug cleaned spark arrester fires but only back fires help please
Mike Nobbe check the fly wheel the key may be broke if it is may half to replace fly wheel
Hey there Kevin, I forgot to ask about the fuel for these. It is safe to use TruFuel in the green cans on these carbs?
check this if available for you this is for
VA www.pure-gas.org/station?station_id=6332
You mention bread ties,,, I use welding tip cleaners
Yes they work great as well ....
How do you remove the check valve covers or Welsh plug as you call them please good video 👍 and greetings from England
Walbro makes a kit 500.500 it contains all that you will need .
Excellent video Kevin. Im in the process of fixing my FS 55R. It runs good when I am giving it throttle and I can use it, but it dies once I let off of the throttle. Any ideas of where I should start?
? Will it bog down before trying to run as expected .....If so you likely have a carb issue or clogged spark arrester .
@@kevinbolin7665 It will not stay running on its own after I start it....I have to feather the throttle to keep it going. Spark arrestor is clean. It might be a little boggy but not too bad. It reminds me of an issue I had on my MS361 saw...small crack in impulse line.
Kevin Bolin, off topic, but curious about something.I see you have had hands on alot of stuff.I never atempted, but need to know.Issue is, I have a Sthil Trimmer FS45.Guy is selling me one for $15 won't start.Fig I'll roll the dice fig bad crap gas carb or arrestor being he had in shop 2 yrs ago and Sthil said issue at that time was arrestor.So, it's curved shaft pole etc.I hate curved.If I had a straight Sthil with that gearing and head around same mod # as the FS45 what is odds of working?Be all orig Sthil named just seeing if I can take another Sthil that is straight pole that already has the gearing and head and slide in 45 case? Or I'm 100% sol won't work.
Yes it will work on a fs 55 Stihl but the 45 will lack power .....Still it will interchange form a curved to a straight shaft with very little effort .
Kevin Bolin, thanks for reply.I understand about lack of power.That is, I do question how much lack or if the FS45 will still cut alright for basic short lawn cuts.My plan is, to find a Sthil trimmer that is toasted except head, gearing, the pole and guts inside pole.Swap to the 45 toss the 45 curved shaft etc aside.I got to get this FS45 first from seller.But I have the FS56 RC.Although the 56rc is fine, I may try a swap just to see if.Any event that was my curious before I brought this FS45.As in if any hope I could swap for straight from some other Sthil trimmers.Thanks for input.
Hey I've got a bg75 can't get carb can you tell me witch one is compatible please
I made a effort to look into a compatible carb sadly I couldn't find one that would work without mods being made .
@@kevinbolin7665 the bg85 work but the accelerator is on the outside
Kevin, my FS40 will not prime, is this a carb problem?
It could be just the primer ....depending on the condition ......However if I was a gambling man I would say.... {I would replace the carb } because often is the case modern gasoline has taken its toll on the carb.
What about the ones on Ebay for 11$
They are cheap and often will not work . They also often leak past the inlet needle and flood the equipment . Not recommended as a replacement over OEM .....
Not bad $25 to 35 for a carburetor. If you see all the components it has .at least 100