Enjoyed your video - it was informative. Ive done this myself a few times and they surely didn't give you much room to work on a CR-V. I would like to offer a few suggestions. Take the crankshaft pulley off - the water pump will almost fall out the bottom when you get all the bolts out. It's easy to do if you have a good impact and a heavy 19mm socket. I use a Milwaukee 1/2" drive electric impact. Take the idler off the tensioner - it's easy to do with a 14mm wrench and gives you room to easily get to that bottom bolt. No need to remove the motor mount; just take the capscrew out and lower the engine by turning the nut out on the long stud. That's what it's for - Your tip about taping the socket to the bolt head when putting the bottom bolts in the water pump was awesome and that's the first time I'd heard of that trick. The bottom bolt and left one ain't too bad. The right one is a S.O.B. - lol! Again - I enjoyed the video and wasn't criticizing; just sharing experience and info -
thanks. i will keep that in mind for the next time i have to do that. although that crank bolt is always a tough one to crack, especially without an adequate impact tool.
@projectsbyj25 the socket itself is about as important as the impact tool. I use one of those Lisle 19mm impact sockets that are very thick and heavy. Not much give, and makes your impact tool meaner. The last one I took off didn't hammer a half dozen times. I have a Milwaukee 1/2" impact with the 12.0 18v battery.
Highly recommend the alternative method of going from the passenger wheel-well. Especially if you have a 1/2 impact. The water pump is easily accessible from here once the crank pulley is removed. A great time to replace the crank seal too. It’s nice to have a set of long boy ratcheting wrenches not required.
Honda made it very hard to work on the earlier versions of the K-series engines. It’s mostly because they put the engine more towards the passenger side… which makes super hard to get to things when they break.
I just did this similar type job on '11 V6 Rav4 and this looks way tighter/worse...planning on doing alternator and maybe tensioner at same time, but ill pass on doing WP empirically after watching this- no thanks, ill wait till it goes. However the tensioner on CRV way easier than it was on Rav4- stupid design where have to remove radiator to unbolt the AC compressor as tensioner access bolts are sandwiched behind the AC and engine block.
@@TheMarriedManChannel it did help but I think u would need to pair with an oem tensioner. Cause since I didn’t use an oem tensioner no there’s like a low whirling sound when I turn on the engine but it drowns out quick once u get use to it. It’s just a pain of a job to do so I just left it until I really have to redo it again. No squeals tho.
In the video it might look like u might need to remove the crankshaft pulley but u don’t have to. The real struggle was trying to get a ratchet and socket in there, but for me, the crankshaft pulley wasn’t in the way.
Easier way to remove the belt, at least for me is to get yourself that long serpentine belt tool and grind down a spare 14mm socket about a 1/4" that way it'll fit that tight space and you won't have to remove anything the next time you gotta change the belt.
probably the noise was from the tensioner, It is good only use the OEM parts because repair water pump is a pain in the butt, you don't want to do it again in a year or two.
About ypur front suspension bolt what ypur saying is not true. That control arm bushing is not one that turns or moves your safe to tighten it while in the air now the back one to that control arm youd be correct needs tightened with load
Turn to Jesus people, he died for your sins. Repent of what the New testament describes as sin. Believe the gospel get baptized and obey the teachings of Jesus. The gospel and the teachings of Jesus are documented in Matthew Mark Luke and John. Jesus is the only way to be saved, if you have faith in Jesus through your faith you will live by his teachings. God bless you all in Jesus name amen 🙏
Enjoyed your video - it was informative. Ive done this myself a few times and they surely didn't give you much room to work on a CR-V. I would like to offer a few suggestions. Take the crankshaft pulley off - the water pump will almost fall out the bottom when you get all the bolts out. It's easy to do if you have a good impact and a heavy 19mm socket. I use a Milwaukee 1/2" drive electric impact. Take the idler off the tensioner - it's easy to do with a 14mm wrench and gives you room to easily get to that bottom bolt. No need to remove the motor mount; just take the capscrew out and lower the engine by turning the nut out on the long stud. That's what it's for -
Your tip about taping the socket to the bolt head when putting the bottom bolts in the water pump was awesome and that's the first time I'd heard of that trick. The bottom bolt and left one ain't too bad. The right one is a S.O.B. - lol! Again - I enjoyed the video and wasn't criticizing; just sharing experience and info -
thanks. i will keep that in mind for the next time i have to do that. although that crank bolt is always a tough one to crack, especially without an adequate impact tool.
@projectsbyj25 the socket itself is about as important as the impact tool. I use one of those Lisle 19mm impact sockets that are very thick and heavy. Not much give, and makes your impact tool meaner. The last one I took off didn't hammer a half dozen times. I have a Milwaukee 1/2" impact with the 12.0 18v battery.
@@smid2550 oh ok: yeah, when I have enough funds, imma have to invest in a battery power 1/2” impact. Much needed.
I've got a 2003 with 195,000 on it and its making that same noise. I'm going to change all that out too. Thanks for the video!
Highly recommend the alternative method of going from the passenger wheel-well. Especially if you have a 1/2 impact. The water pump is easily accessible from here once the crank pulley is removed. A great time to replace the crank seal too. It’s nice to have a set of long boy ratcheting wrenches not required.
Thanks for this video, will be attempting this in a few days.
Thank you 🙏 good video
Honda made it very hard to work on the earlier versions of the K-series engines. It’s mostly because they put the engine more towards the passenger side… which makes super hard to get to things when they break.
Very helpful video!
Real good stuff brother your the man!
I just did this similar type job on '11 V6 Rav4 and this looks way tighter/worse...planning on doing alternator and maybe tensioner at same time, but ill pass on doing WP empirically after watching this- no thanks, ill wait till it goes. However the tensioner on CRV way easier than it was on Rav4- stupid design where have to remove radiator to unbolt the AC compressor as tensioner access bolts are sandwiched behind the AC and engine block.
great video did you use OEM parts
Majority of the parts were aftermarket, the only one I had to switch to oem eventually was the belt itself.
Was an OEM belt the end of the squealing?
@@projectsbyj25
@@TheMarriedManChannel it did help but I think u would need to pair with an oem tensioner. Cause since I didn’t use an oem tensioner no there’s like a low whirling sound when I turn on the engine but it drowns out quick once u get use to it. It’s just a pain of a job to do so I just left it until I really have to redo it again. No squeals tho.
Your can do the tensioner pulley with a long reach 14mm combination spanner
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I’m surprised you didn’t remove the crankshaft pulley to get access to the water pump.
In the video it might look like u might need to remove the crankshaft pulley but u don’t have to. The real struggle was trying to get a ratchet and socket in there, but for me, the crankshaft pulley wasn’t in the way.
Yeah, removing the crankshaft pulley would’ve made much easier.
In possible to get a soccer or wrench on that tensioner nut. There's a air conditioning land at runs right through there makes it impossible.
Yeah that area is pretty packed
You don't necessarily need to use Honda coolant. However you should use blue coolant at minimum on these cars.
I missed my b series...
Easier way to remove the belt, at least for me is to get yourself that long serpentine belt tool and grind down a spare 14mm socket about a 1/4" that way it'll fit that tight space and you won't have to remove anything the next time you gotta change the belt.
That’s genius. I’m going to do that the next time
probably the noise was from the tensioner, It is good only use the OEM parts because repair water pump is a pain in the butt, you don't want to do it again in a year or two.
Yeah turn out it was that and the belt itself. Had to go oem for the belt and that helped out a lot.
Thanks for the video
Even with the motor mount removed.
Lol wtf my waterpump came out from the bottom without having to pull the engine mount nor the crank pulley 😂 very interesting
Interesting.... What year?
It’s because you know what you’re doing 👏 👏
2006 crv? And did you have to drop subframe like this bozo did?
About ypur front suspension bolt what ypur saying is not true. That control arm bushing is not one that turns or moves your safe to tighten it while in the air now the back one to that control arm youd be correct needs tightened with load
Turn to Jesus people, he died for your sins. Repent of what the New testament describes as sin. Believe the gospel get baptized and obey the teachings of Jesus. The gospel and the teachings of Jesus are documented in Matthew Mark Luke and John. Jesus is the only way to be saved, if you have faith in Jesus through your faith you will live by his teachings. God bless you all in Jesus name amen 🙏
What does your religion have to do with removing a this water pump?
Guy has no clue what he’s doing he did it the hard way
No clue?? But the job still got done somehow?? Hmms, weird..
what's the easy way? I'm about to do this job & would love helpful tips!!!