I know this is a few years old now, but I have never read so many troll, arse comments on this mans work, ever! This man know his stuff ok, I have been building and staining maple tops over the years and this man has got it, mad it simple and accesable without the "Hey, look how crazy I am" crap video's usualy posted nowadays. So glad I dont post any of my work on TrollTube. This man's work is excellent and deserves a little respect, and thanks. Just about to give my 336 build the same treatment. Many thanks, John Willis
This wood is quilted Bigleaf Maple and grows in the northern California and southern Oregon coast. The best specimens have this tubular look to the grain. The stains or dyes used on it make the grain more visible and the finishing techniques used can highlight the grain to the max if done effectively. It is certainly a beautiful piece of wood.
It is Stew-Mac red mahogany. It is quite dark but transparent over the amber it looks good. A regular red will look orangish as the amber reflected is filtered through the red over it.
What I use now is a fine grit sanding sponge with only light sanding. When I have 3 coats of clear on the amber, I sand it well to prepare for the burst color.
Your voice reminds me of that guy Bob Ross on the TV Painting show. Very relaxing. I just watched a 13 minute video and wish I still smoked pot. You are gifted man. Gorgeous work.
Without seeing it myself, I'd stain the damaged area and then build up clear lacquer to fill the spot. Lacquer shrinks so you'll have to put more on than you think to eventually get a level finish. The gloss lacquer will give you the matching finish you want. Wait a few weeks before you sand and polish so the lacquer is nice and hard.
If you are wanting to color the wood, you need to strip it down to bare wood and then use the vintage amber etc. If you are doing a vintage amber burst, then just fine sand your guitar and do the burst and follow with clear to seal it all up.
man the razor blade thing brought back a horrible flashback for me lol. i painted a guitar once and had a run. used polycrylic clear and waited 3 days, well apparently it wasnt cured and when i touched it it dug all the way to the primer. man i was pissed. anyway, that sucker is gorgeous man
Everything affects the sound but I don't think it will affect it much if it's not very thick. Be careful to not put lacquer over something else because you might damage the underlying finish. Also, if the the finish is satin, let's say, the clear over it won't make it clear.
If the color is gone all the way down to the wood with the chip then you need to put the color back. If it's just the clear coat that is chipped, just put the clear back. Lacquer takes time to really cure. I allow a couple of weeks before I buff a guitar.
@gayouj If the binding follows one level contour around the body then it's easier to just rout the binding channel before carving the top, whilst the top is still flat. Then all it takes is to cut the channels on a router table or with a handheld router with an offset base (teardrop shaped with a handle at the narrow end). You can make floating router jigs to follow contours - like on archtops or acoustics - but for most solidbodies, it's not necessary.
I use nitrocellulose lacquer but poly is fine as long as you use it all the way through. I do the base color (in this case amber) then clear over it followed by the burst color (in this case red) and then the final coats of clear.
@and1424 gibson first stains the lighter color of their bursts by hand then they spray the outside colors ... gibsons process is almost exactly like the one used in the video except gibson waits until every coat of finish is applied before they scrape the binding
I can't even tell you what the compressor brand is...I've had it a long time and used it in the shop. What is important is a good moisture filter. I like pot sprayers because it is what I am used to. They are a little harder to control than an airbrush but I've used them a long time as well.
I do this because sometimes I'm not happy with the burst spray job...the density and the evenness of it so I like to put some clear over the amber so I can sand off the burst and still retain the amber without having to start all over from the beginning. I guess if I did spraying all day long, I'd be more practiced and more confident.
I can't imagine getting a nice fade of the red with a brush. It could be done at the same time without the clear coats in between, but I don't have that kind of confidence yet. Maybe you could experiment with dye application techniques and blend it in right at the beginning.
When you do these type of videos, it would have been nice to insert a still photo of the results of the progress at each step and one of the end result. I mean, I just watched you dye/lacquer the back & sides in black but never saw the end results until this video when you flipped the body over!
Nice burst colors, but IMO it needs a good wet sand (in about a month or so) to bring out an incredible shine...unless you are going for a matte finish, then I guess your done. Either way nice job! Peace
I would put clear over whatever my base color is and then do the burst. It's safer to do this in case you don't like the burst and want to sand it off without having to completely start over. This is what I do because I don't do enough of them to be a real pro.
I don't understand why you put 3 coats of clear in between the amber and the red? Why not spray over the dried amber? You wont have any bleed with the two colors.
so what was the overall process for the back of the guitar? did you put a sealer first, then the dye sanding it a couple of times and then the clear coats? i want to do the same to a bass im building but on the front as well. really appreciate if you send me instructions
if you were going to stain a guilted maple body a different color than sunburst, would you still use a vintage amber if you were going to stain the top a blue? i was just curious what color stain you'd use to bring out the grain if you were going to stain a a blue or something thats not a warm color. thanks.
@KingBlossomGuitars did you paint it with woodstain and after you did a couple coats did you wait for it to dry then add a couple coats of lacquer? and ps does lacquer make it so the paint wont chip like if your fixing a paint chip on a guitar
was this a kit ? and if so what brand? did it come with everything? neck and all the electrical parts? and final how much did it cost? thank you for sharing all the info you have on your vids.
@KingBlossomGuitars hi, you seem to be a pro so i hope you can answer this question: for a black burst, would you put some coats of clear lack on it and then put on black or put on a slight black first, then some coats of clear lack and then "burst" it with black?
My telecaster have a clear lacquer seal, if i use the vintage amber on it it will works like in your case? is very important to know it in order to use your technique please...
@KingBlossomGuitars yah its all the way down to the wood theres no paint on that spot so if i use black woodstain thats the color of the rest of the guitar and after like 5 or 6 coats let dry then use lacqure? and do they have woodstain with gloss in it?
I plan on making a guitar with the help of your videos. I am wanting to put an inlay design on the body of the guitar. Should I stan it and Lacquer it then route out where I want the inlays to be or would I route it, put the inlays in and tape over the inlays to paint the body? Your videos are very good and you make some fine guitars. Thanks
@KingBlossomGuitars Hello, i just want to give the brightness that the guitar get with the Vintage Amber, with no Burst, (the first step that you make) the point is that my guitar have already a finish on it but i think is just a small coat of clear lacquer, is not a virgin wood, so you recommend to take that coat of lacquer, not putting vintage amber on it? thanks
Fantastic video. Would you be willing to share you technique for doing the body binding considering that your tops are carved? Are you using some special base for a router to keep it level or chiseling the material out by hand? Thanks!
@KingBlossomGuitars also if i wanted to fix a paint chip in the guitar would i use glossy wood stain then use lacquer after a couple coats of the wood stain? also would i have to use primer? PS i heard WOOD STAIN WITH GLOSS WOULD NOT WORK
Hi. Great video and fantastic colours! Just wondering if the red dye can be hand applied as well and then if it would have to be done at the same time as the yellow/amber? Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
I have a Les Paul where the binding is kind of sharp where my forearm goes across. Would it be safe to use the scraping method you used to try to smooth it down, or, should I bring it to a luthier? It's not a highly-collectible version, merely 2007 ebony finish...
Man , can you explain me please what is that you applied on the body ? What is that solution that made the guitar more orange and made the lines look better ? Water based... I don't really understand , maybe because of my bad computer I can't hear correctly . Can you please tell me what solution is and what effect has on the wood ? Thanks a lot :)
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I know this is a few years old now, but I have never read so many troll, arse comments on this mans work, ever! This man know his stuff ok, I have been building and staining maple tops over the years and this man has got it, mad it simple and accesable without the "Hey, look how crazy I am" crap video's usualy posted nowadays. So glad I dont post any of my work on TrollTube.
This man's work is excellent and deserves a little respect, and thanks. Just about to give my 336 build the same treatment.
Many thanks, John Willis
He definitely gets points for not starting off with "Wassup guys".
This wood is quilted Bigleaf Maple and grows in the northern California and southern Oregon coast. The best specimens have this tubular look to the grain. The stains or dyes used on it make the grain more visible and the finishing techniques used can highlight the grain to the max if done effectively. It is certainly a beautiful piece of wood.
That's a beautiful piece of wood - I liked both sides.
Yes, it was a sweet piece
Not exactly sure I followed the entire procedure but the end result was truly a thing of beauty. Thanks for sharing.
It is Stew-Mac red mahogany. It is quite dark but transparent over the amber it looks good. A regular red will look orangish as the amber reflected is filtered through the red over it.
What I use now is a fine grit sanding sponge with only light sanding. When I have 3 coats of clear on the amber, I sand it well to prepare for the burst color.
Dark brown/black looks great with a sunburst face. Great job.
Oh god that sound when he's scraping!!! the agonyy!!!
Its a delicate procedure for sure man. If the paint isnt 100% cured you can expect a respray.
That is one gorgeous looking guitar.
Your voice reminds me of that guy Bob Ross on the TV Painting show. Very relaxing. I just watched a 13 minute video and wish I still smoked pot. You are gifted man. Gorgeous work.
beautiful
Wow! That pattern/finish is a beauty.
The wood is called Bigleaf quilted maple and grows on the Pacific Northwest coast.
Mahogany body, bigleaf quilted maple top, 120-1000 grit sandpaper for sanding wood....up to 2000 for lacquer
wow ! wasnt expecting that, the back of that axe is amazing !!!! great job, that thing is beautiful !
that maple is RIDICULOUS!!
Without seeing it myself, I'd stain the damaged area and then build up clear lacquer to fill the spot. Lacquer shrinks so you'll have to put more on than you think to eventually get a level finish. The gloss lacquer will give you the matching finish you want. Wait a few weeks before you sand and polish so the lacquer is nice and hard.
If you are wanting to color the wood, you need to strip it down to bare wood and then use the vintage amber etc. If you are doing a vintage amber burst, then just fine sand your guitar and do the burst and follow with clear to seal it all up.
Thanks for posting videos like this. Please keep em coming..
man the razor blade thing brought back a horrible flashback for me lol. i painted a guitar once and had a run. used polycrylic clear and waited 3 days, well apparently it wasnt cured and when i touched it it dug all the way to the primer. man i was pissed. anyway, that sucker is gorgeous man
Great job! That quilt is beautiful! Thanks for sharing.
U scraped me some goosebumps..
Everything affects the sound but I don't think it will affect it much if it's not very thick. Be careful to not put lacquer over something else because you might damage the underlying finish. Also, if the the finish is satin, let's say, the clear over it won't make it clear.
@KingBlossomGuitars thanks a lot. that thing's gonna be a beauty
@KingBlossomGuitars You don't need to use a brush. Using a rag to rub on a burst can make some very nice looking fades.
If the color is gone all the way down to the wood with the chip then you need to put the color back. If it's just the clear coat that is chipped, just put the clear back. Lacquer takes time to really cure. I allow a couple of weeks before I buff a guitar.
Beautiful work. I am deeply impressed.
Fantastic! And what a gorgeous piece of quilt you've got there !
Excellent craftsmanship.
@gayouj If the binding follows one level contour around the body then it's easier to just rout the binding channel before carving the top, whilst the top is still flat. Then all it takes is to cut the channels on a router table or with a handheld router with an offset base (teardrop shaped with a handle at the narrow end). You can make floating router jigs to follow contours - like on archtops or acoustics - but for most solidbodies, it's not necessary.
I use nitrocellulose lacquer but poly is fine as long as you use it all the way through. I do the base color (in this case amber) then clear over it followed by the burst color (in this case red) and then the final coats of clear.
@Prostheta Duh. I can't believe I didn't think of that. Thanks for the sanity check, bro.
@and1424 gibson first stains the lighter color of their bursts by hand then they spray the outside colors ... gibsons process is almost exactly like the one used in the video except gibson waits until every coat of finish is applied before they scrape the binding
I can't even tell you what the compressor brand is...I've had it a long time and used it in the shop. What is important is a good moisture filter. I like pot sprayers because it is what I am used to. They are a little harder to control than an airbrush but I've used them a long time as well.
I'm not applying too much actual material, it's fairly low volume. I've done it enough to tell when I'm getting too much on and am going to get a run.
Que hermosa guitarra!
Me encantó el, el Arce de atrás y el modelo... Y el color quedó perfecto!!!
Oh my God you do beautiful work. Way to go and thanks for sharing.
I've had my problems as well but I the only way I've found to get a run completely flattened is to use a razor blade.
you could have use alcohol 90% on the binding residue, a slightly touch will make all residue disappear
@blueturtleman1 Same here. I was looking forward to seeing the finished product.
great video, and thanks for sharing. looks like a very effective technique you have.
that is a beautiful guitar.
That's a beautiful guitar without the burst.
beautiful piece of timber
Beautiful piece, thanks for sharing.
I do this because sometimes I'm not happy with the burst spray job...the density and the evenness of it so I like to put some clear over the amber so I can sand off the burst and still retain the amber without having to start all over from the beginning. I guess if I did spraying all day long, I'd be more practiced and more confident.
I can't imagine getting a nice fade of the red with a brush. It could be done at the same time without the clear coats in between, but I don't have that kind of confidence yet. Maybe you could experiment with dye application techniques and blend it in right at the beginning.
I use McFadden's now available under the Seagrave Coatings label as 'guitar lacquer'
That is beautiful work. Thanks for sharing
Yes, stain won't penetrate well if the wood has some kind of sealer on it.
*sees guitar unstained in beginning* ok lets see what we got here
*guy flips guitar* OMG ITS FUCKING BEAUTIFUL!!!
Great work. You make it look easy!
When you do these type of videos, it would have been nice to insert a still photo of the results of the progress at each step and one of the end result.
I mean, I just watched you dye/lacquer the back & sides in black but never saw the end results until this video when you flipped the body over!
That scraping! Dude!
Beautiful work sir.
Nice job, this method could be used for all burst finishes!
Nice burst colors, but IMO it needs a good wet sand (in about a month or so) to bring out an incredible shine...unless you are going for a matte finish, then I guess your done. Either way nice job! Peace
I do. King Blossom custom guitars.
That is Colortone concentrated liquid stain.....it's the only one I've found that doesn't have a bluish cast to it when you sand it down.
I used to but I've found it to be unnecessary because I'm going to scrape it later anyway.
I would put clear over whatever my base color is and then do the burst. It's safer to do this in case you don't like the burst and want to sand it off without having to completely start over. This is what I do because I don't do enough of them to be a real pro.
KingBlossomGuitars This is something I'd not thought to have done, cheers for that piece of advice!.
Love that body style.
I don't understand why you put 3 coats of clear in between the amber and the red? Why not spray over the dried amber? You wont have any bleed with the two colors.
Thank you, nice style of finishing.
@KingBlossomGuitars thx
pleease answer... is there a reason u dont put black on the front also because wouldnt that have a good contrast with the yellow if u sand it down?
so what was the overall process for the back of the guitar? did you put a sealer first, then the dye sanding it a couple of times and then the clear coats? i want to do the same to a bass im building but on the front as well. really appreciate if you send me instructions
if you were going to stain a guilted maple body a different color than sunburst, would you still use a vintage amber if you were going to stain the top a blue? i was just curious what color stain you'd use to bring out the grain if you were going to stain a a blue or something thats not a warm color. thanks.
Awesome information!
Beautiful work!
Nice job. Do you know how Gibsons Standard Faded are painted ? Do they use airbrush ? This low preassure one or just a paint brush ? Thanks!
@KingBlossomGuitars did you paint it with woodstain and after you did a couple coats did you wait for it to dry then add a couple coats of lacquer? and ps does lacquer make it so the paint wont chip like if your fixing a paint chip on a guitar
was this a kit ? and if so what brand? did it come with everything? neck and all the electrical parts? and final how much did it cost? thank you for sharing all the info you have on your vids.
I stand corrected. It was Seagrave Coatings.
It's magic!
nice job !
What kind of spray equipment do you use? Is there a particular compressor that you like?
beautiful job!
Sure, I do that with mine....rounding the binding to make it as comfortable as possible
I think he was asking if it was Seagrave who bought them out.
The finished guitar if my RPG #0005
@KingBlossomGuitars hi, you seem to be a pro so i hope you can answer this question: for a black burst, would you put some coats of clear lack on it and then put on black or put on a slight black first, then some coats of clear lack and then "burst" it with black?
My telecaster have a clear lacquer seal, if i use the vintage amber on it it will works like in your case? is very important to know it in order to use your technique please...
Do you buy bodies cut, bound & ready for stain? Or make your own designs?
Could you tell me what PSI and paint you use for the red please? thanks
wow how come the grain is like this?i thought the guitars looked like that because they were specially coloured,but it turns out its the grains!
What brand of lacquer are you using on this guitar? Thanks.
@KingBlossomGuitars yah its all the way down to the wood theres no paint on that spot so if i use black woodstain thats the color of the rest of the guitar and after like 5 or 6 coats let dry then use lacqure? and do they have woodstain with gloss in it?
that is an outstanding job sir,quick question,Are these autobody transparent lacquer is a good solution on electric guitars as a clear coat?
I plan on making a guitar with the help of your videos. I am wanting to put an inlay design on the body of the guitar. Should I stan it and Lacquer it then route out where I want the inlays to be or would I route it, put the inlays in and tape over the inlays to paint the body?
Your videos are very good and you make some fine guitars.
Thanks
@KingBlossomGuitars Hello, i just want to give the
brightness that the guitar get with the Vintage Amber, with no Burst,
(the first step that you make) the point is that my guitar have already a
finish on it but i think is just a small coat of clear lacquer, is not a virgin
wood, so you recommend to take that coat of lacquer, not putting vintage amber on it? thanks
Fantastic video. Would you be willing to share you technique for doing the body binding considering that your tops are carved? Are you using some special base for a router to keep it level or chiseling the material out by hand?
Thanks!
@KingBlossomGuitars also if i wanted to fix a paint chip in the guitar would i use glossy wood stain then use lacquer after a couple coats of the wood stain? also would i have to use primer? PS i heard WOOD STAIN WITH GLOSS WOULD NOT WORK
Thanks for the video. One question though: why do clear laquer after the amber instead of after the guitar is fully painted and laquer it all at once?
Hi. Great video and fantastic colours! Just wondering if the red dye can be hand applied as well and then if it would have to be done at the same time as the yellow/amber? Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
I have a Les Paul where the binding is kind of sharp where my forearm goes across. Would it be safe to use the scraping method you used to try to smooth it down, or, should I bring it to a luthier? It's not a highly-collectible version, merely 2007 ebony finish...
Man , can you explain me please what is that you applied on the body ? What is that solution that made the guitar more orange and made the lines look better ? Water based... I don't really understand , maybe because of my bad computer I can't hear correctly . Can you please tell me what solution is and what effect has on the wood ? Thanks a lot :)
These are all done in my shop
What kind of clear coat/sealer?