Very well done-this helped a lot! However, I want to install one of these on a door that leads to basement stairs but there is about 2” of decorative moulding trim around the doorframe. Can one of the components be lowered/raised to compensate for the height/clearance needed?
2:10 I love how the main arm hits the door frame both times when passing it. Happened to me as well. Displacing the entire unit for a few mm lower was out of the question, so my only option was to loosen the bolt with the washer on the main arm and lower the main arm/shaft a bit by hand, so it doesn't hit the door frame every time.
You saved someone's life today. I lost my mind listening to this damn door slam, you been a great help the door now closes perfectly thanks a lot keep up the good work
That bang bang you hear when he opens the door is the elbow knuckle striking the top of the door frame. Probably better to adjust to your door frame with more room at the bottom.
Almost got it right. Give a little preload to the arm, and on regular and top jamb installations you can mount the armature to the closer body before mounting the closer. This will allow for the proper preload, and elimination one step. Thanks for the video
thats how I do it, assemble arm to closer before mounting it to the door, but most follow the instructions word for word, and prefer to put the arm on AFTER the body is up. -Jess the door closer doctor
When people always open your door but never close it on their way out. That's right, im looking at you, parents! I wanted to see how this was done before i get one. Nice video
Great demo teaching man! I got a problem....i.e. to keep the door stay "still" or stationary when it is "fully wide open" (such as to move things through the door before it closes up automatically as in normal case). After moving the stuff thru the door, then the door will be manually closed after I pull it inward to activate its automatic closing action. How can I do it? Thanks for your help!
Unfortunately to accomplish what your looking for, you would need different parts all together. One option would be a "hold open" arm, this is adjustable as long as the closer was originally installed correctly, at the proper degree of opening. Also, not all closer bodies have a compatible hold open arm assembly. If the opening is fire rated, it would be against fire code to have any hardware that impedes a positive latching motion. In some cases you can put a delayed action closer on. This has an extra adjustment that delays the closing of the door up to 30 seconds. This requires a whole new closer assembly. Hope this info helped
Estou no Brasil, trabalho com esquadrias de alumínio a muito tempo, mas nunca instalei uma mola aérea do lado de dentro de uma porta que abre para fora. E preciso instalar uma amanhã, não tinha a mínima idéia de como iria fazer, obrigado pelo vídeo. Like certo
это лучшее объяснение . хоть я английский и не понимаю , но всё понятно . а я то думал , почему у меня дверь хлопает по косяку ... вот оно в чем дело - колено должно быть перпендикулярно плоскости двери!
I just instaled one today but I don't understand is why I can't control the speed ......the manusl says that depends on what side are u want to instal it and you need to adjust the part where the arm goes mounted acording to the marks ......but I don't know if thats the problem
you didn't say that the jamb/header was wood or metal... also, you said drill and tap for 1/4x20 machine screw threads... this assumes that the header is, 1) not thin aluminum or hollow sheetmetal stock. these should only be drilled and tapped for such if there are backing plates behind the sheetmetal such as 3/16 inch thick. for thinner metal mounting surfaces, one should use the large sheetmetal thread screws to avoid pull out. again, you 'didn't say' !
Хобби
Good man. I wish i saw this video 3 hours before
Very well done-this helped a lot! However, I want to install one of these on a door that leads to basement stairs but there is about 2” of decorative moulding trim around the doorframe. Can one of the components be lowered/raised to compensate for the height/clearance needed?
2:10 I love how the main arm hits the door frame both times when passing it. Happened to me as well. Displacing the entire unit for a few mm lower was out of the question, so my only option was to loosen the bolt with the washer on the main arm and lower the main arm/shaft a bit by hand, so it doesn't hit the door frame every time.
You saved someone's life today. I lost my mind listening to this damn door slam, you been a great help the door now closes perfectly thanks a lot keep up the good work
Awesome. Well explained for those who want to install main pump on outer frame of door.
That bang bang you hear when he opens the door is the elbow knuckle striking the top of the door frame. Probably better to adjust to your door frame with more room at the bottom.
you rock dude, easy as can be after watching this.
We want to put the Ryobi on the top jam of the door. Will it push the door shut??As opposed to pull the door shut?
Thank you for the video! Had to replace and adjust! Perfect!
This is the best tutorial for this job i have found on internet. Good job
Thanks mate, I really did need to see your video before I made a mistake, i didn't see your video and did make a mistake,, thanks wayne,, Wales UK
GREAT!! So helpful! Thanks guys!!
Almost got it right. Give a little preload to the arm, and on regular and top jamb installations you can mount the armature to the closer body before mounting the closer. This will allow for the proper preload, and elimination one step. Thanks for the video
thats how I do it, assemble arm to closer before mounting it to the door, but most follow the instructions word for word, and prefer to put the arm on AFTER the body is up.
-Jess the door closer doctor
When people always open your door but never close it on their way out. That's right, im looking at you, parents! I wanted to see how this was done before i get one. Nice video
Nicely demonstrated :)
Great demo teaching man!
I got a problem....i.e. to keep the door stay "still" or stationary when it is "fully wide open" (such as to move things through the door before it closes up automatically as in normal case). After moving the stuff thru the door, then the door will be manually closed after I pull it inward to activate its automatic closing action. How can I do it? Thanks for your help!
Unfortunately to accomplish what your looking for, you would need different parts all together. One option would be a "hold open" arm, this is adjustable as long as the closer was originally installed correctly, at the proper degree of opening. Also, not all closer bodies have a compatible hold open arm assembly. If the opening is fire rated, it would be against fire code to have any hardware that impedes a positive latching motion. In some cases you can put a delayed action closer on. This has an extra adjustment that delays the closing of the door up to 30 seconds. This requires a whole new closer assembly. Hope this info helped
Well done good job 👏
What mechanism is used in this one..any one please reply me
Are these measurements appropriate for different brands and models of door closers, or are they specific for this model?
Good pm sir tanong lng po ano Po ba ung ping ka iba Ng hydraulic door closer sa automatic door closer salamat
Good manGood man
Estou no Brasil, trabalho com esquadrias de alumínio a muito tempo, mas nunca instalei uma mola aérea do lado de dentro de uma porta que abre para fora. E preciso instalar uma amanhã, não tinha a mínima idéia de como iria fazer, obrigado pelo vídeo. Like certo
ap
это лучшее объяснение . хоть я английский и не понимаю , но всё понятно . а я то думал , почему у меня дверь хлопает по косяку ... вот оно в чем дело - колено должно быть перпендикулярно плоскости двери!
I don’t like because you didn’t mention this measurement....🤔🤔
also, the crescent wrench was flipped the wrong way. the turning pressure should not be on the 'movable' jaw side..
Excelente!!!!
Apesar de não entender o idioma,
Entendi a instalação!!!
Pois não achei abrindo pra fora!!!(nativo)
This is useful tips
I just instaled one today but I don't understand is why I can't control the speed ......the manusl says that depends on what side are u want to instal it and you need to adjust the part where the arm goes mounted acording to the marks ......but I don't know if thats the problem
What are the measurements from the door jam and door?
The measurements that came with the instructions are 220 and 95 etc...What measurements are these and do I convert into inches?
* how do I convert in to inches?
Can you please add the measurement where the holes need to be?
Was also looking for that measurement.
good. thanks.
Great!🙏
Hi, does anyone knows the measurements?
Running on empty. Anybody catch that?
Very good information
useful tips thank you very much
thanks
М-О-Л-О-Д-Е-Ц... очень помог!)
good
My door push outward towards the exterior, can this be mounted on the exterior side?
no, it mounts also in the interior, you just need to switch the side of the main unit upside-down. Should be in the instructions in the box.
you didn't say that the jamb/header was wood or metal... also, you said drill and tap for 1/4x20 machine screw threads... this assumes that the header is, 1) not thin aluminum or hollow sheetmetal stock. these should only be drilled and tapped for such if there are backing plates behind the sheetmetal such as 3/16 inch thick. for thinner metal mounting surfaces, one should use the large sheetmetal thread screws to avoid pull out. again, you 'didn't say' !
the best of me
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maximum woof you didn't say you are a complete tool but we gathered that anyways. Again you didn't say.
Good gide
Michas gracias
vERY GOOD
Congratulations
굿
Ampli fayer kenwood
Good.
Nice
McLovin
🌹👍👍👍
plas araby
Hello
capo
My
You should be a little be more detail and don't move too fast!. Show