Not sure if you’ll see this but I’m in the Chicago land area in my 4th year of service. I’m coming across a lot of boilers now and your videos help a ton! I’ve been watching your basic 101 and I’ve learned quite a bit. Just want to say thanks!
The key part is that you never know what you’ll run into. Steve has almost the whole plumbing supply house in his truck. Therefore he’s prepared for just about anything.
I’m obviously talking about something that is working fine or that can wait until the next week when things are open (this was more applicable in the days before the big chain home supplies stores)
Steve, Fellow MA guy here. I am having an issue with my Gas Furnace. Armstrong Ultra III 80. Last year I had an issue with the fan control board. The furnace would kick on but the blower would not work so the furnace would shut down due to no air flow. I tapped on the fan control board and found that the blower kicked on. I found a bad solder connection on the relay NO contact on the board. I opened the relay and noticed the contacts were a bit abused. I bought and soldered in a new relay on the board and was issue free till a year later now. I think this issue is different and unrelated. So here is how the new issue happens. The thermostat calls usually when the furnace had been off for several hours. The thermostat calls for heat. Then then power fume extractor fan kicks on. a few seconds later the spark ignitor will fire and light the pilot. Then a few seconds later the burner will light and here is where the problem happens. Sometimes the blower fan will delay on at different rates. longer when it sits 30 seconds if it has been working all day and longer when it sits. I know its not the relay because I tested the voltage and can hear the click of the relay. When the click happens I know the fan always comes on so I know the relay is working properly. I cannot figure out what tells the fan board to delay the blower on. Especially at different timing. Sometimes it's 30 seconds and sometimes it can take 2 minutes or more. I am trying to find a manual for the fan control board but no luck. The board is a Heatcraft 384938001. I also cleaned out the burners and cleaned the flame sensor and igniter with 000 steel wool. Thanks in advance if you can help me solve the fan on delay mystery. The thermostat is a cheap Basic Honeywell RTH111B1024 that I replaced an old mercury version 3 years ago.
I replaced mine last week. The guy that serviced my boiler said it's normal for them to leak. At zero pressure it was leaking in my book that's not normal. The old one was completely rotted away inside the sealing gasket was none existent. After adjusting the auto fill to 12psi it works great now no leaking. Don't understand why a technician would rather look dumb and not make more money it's not like I don't pay cash just fix my shit not much to ask.
Probably time of day and didn't want to open the proverbial can of worms. Sometimes you look and the only shut off is the one for the feeder and even worse it's monoflow so you know you are not going anywhere anytime soon.
On a hydronic system? What preventative maintenance are you referring to? Best thing to do on a hydronic system is leave it be. No fresh water. Oxygen kills. It's killing all of slowly too. Think before you type away and use emojis
@@zeroheat5787 Well, it prevents the pressure relief valve from popping, so that's sort of preventative. It should be drained every year though. Two years ruined her prv.
@@DAS-Videos one could eliminate the old tank and install a new one with a manual shut off valve and incorporate a drain into that piping arrangement after the shut off valve. When the tank goes, it'll be a simple swap out.
@@zeroheat5787 Eventually it will be replaced with a 2 gallon bladder type tank that needs no maintenance. That's what happened to my old expansion tank.
Hey Steve, love the videos. I have the same type of expansion tank. Is the valve with the bleeder still available? If what is it called. Please let me know. Thanks
@@BoB4jjjjs That style tank just gets emptied, and the air enters the tank as the water drains. When the valve is closed after it drains and the water inlet valve is opened, the water enters the tank and compresses the air bubble pressurizing it. It has to be drained periodically because the air dissolves into the water so the air bubble gets smaller and smaller over time.
@@BoB4jjjjs who knows. I’m sure he doesn’t show every detail in his work on his channel. He has been doing it long enough to know his trade. My thought anyway.
Not sure if you’ll see this but I’m in the Chicago land area in my 4th year of service. I’m coming across a lot of boilers now and your videos help a ton! I’ve been watching your basic 101 and I’ve learned quite a bit. Just want to say thanks!
I enjoy watching boiler work. Always learn something new.
My fathers and grandfathers advise to me about plumbing: "Never start a plumbing project on a Friday night."
Sometimes you don’t have a choice if the water heater is leaking.
The key part is that you never know what you’ll run into. Steve has almost the whole plumbing supply house in his truck. Therefore he’s prepared for just about anything.
Funny you should say that, about 5 years ago our water heater broke.
It was on a Friday night.
I’m obviously talking about something that is working fine or that can wait until the next week when things are open (this was more applicable in the days before the big chain home supplies stores)
And never put the hose back in the van until everything is done.
It's Fall up in Mass Mama..
It's maintenance, but the old tanks last 10 times longer than the new style ones. Mine finally sprung a leak after 65 years.
Boilers & furnaces here on out, Stever. Seasons change, and the vicious circle of never ending service calls continue!!
A friend of mine has a one man show HVAC company. He looks forward to spring and fall for a break between no heat and no AC service calls.
Learn something new with every video. That valve on the expansion tank had a bleeder through the stem? Never saw that coming. Cool stuff.
Good job Steve.
Afternoon Steve
Howdy Steve and Molly
Good afternoon Steve nice fix.
Steve, Fellow MA guy here. I am having an issue with my Gas Furnace. Armstrong Ultra III 80. Last year I had an issue with the fan control board. The furnace would kick on but the blower would not work so the furnace would shut down due to no air flow. I tapped on the fan control board and found that the blower kicked on. I found a bad solder connection on the relay NO contact on the board. I opened the relay and noticed the contacts were a bit abused. I bought and soldered in a new relay on the board and was issue free till a year later now. I think this issue is different and unrelated. So here is how the new issue happens. The thermostat calls usually when the furnace had been off for several hours. The thermostat calls for heat. Then then power fume extractor fan kicks on. a few seconds later the spark ignitor will fire and light the pilot. Then a few seconds later the burner will light and here is where the problem happens. Sometimes the blower fan will delay on at different rates. longer when it sits 30 seconds if it has been working all day and longer when it sits. I know its not the relay because I tested the voltage and can hear the click of the relay. When the click happens I know the fan always comes on so I know the relay is working properly. I cannot figure out what tells the fan board to delay the blower on. Especially at different timing. Sometimes it's 30 seconds and sometimes it can take 2 minutes or more. I am trying to find a manual for the fan control board but no luck. The board is a Heatcraft 384938001. I also cleaned out the burners and cleaned the flame sensor and igniter with 000 steel wool. Thanks in advance if you can help me solve the fan on delay mystery. The thermostat is a cheap Basic Honeywell RTH111B1024 that I replaced an old mercury version 3 years ago.
Hello Steve!
I replaced mine last week. The guy that serviced my boiler said it's normal for them to leak. At zero pressure it was leaking in my book that's not normal. The old one was completely rotted away inside the sealing gasket was none existent. After adjusting the auto fill to 12psi it works great now no leaking. Don't understand why a technician would rather look dumb and not make more money it's not like I don't pay cash just fix my shit not much to ask.
Probably time of day and didn't want to open the proverbial can of worms. Sometimes you look and the only shut off is the one for the feeder and even worse it's monoflow so you know you are not going anywhere anytime soon.
Steve being a Transportation reefer tech, you make Home HVAC look easy.
God damn boy you make it look so easy!!! nice and easy mama...
Nice fix ...Thx ...
HAPPY HALLOWEN 👻GREAT JOB 👍HOPE YOU MAKE A VIDEO THIS YEAR 2022 YOUR COOKING.
Chorizo, that's what you use in your cooking, right Steve? I saw a video breakfast dish in burrito. Sounds great!
That relief valve need the some of the old gundy! 😄
Great Video. Thank you for sharing
Hey Steve and Miss Molly! Workin’ again y’all. 👍👍
I think I would also have checked the venting on the water tank for spillage .
keep their beer and wine next to the furnace to keep it warm and skunky :o) heh .. these are the things i notice heh
Draining the tank every 2 years, that's good preventive maintenance! 👍
On a hydronic system? What preventative maintenance are you referring to? Best thing to do on a hydronic system is leave it be. No fresh water. Oxygen kills. It's killing all of slowly too. Think before you type away and use emojis
@@zeroheat5787 Well, it prevents the pressure relief valve from popping, so that's sort of preventative. It should be drained every year though. Two years ruined her prv.
@@DAS-Videos one could eliminate the old tank and install a new one with a manual shut off valve and incorporate a drain into that piping arrangement after the shut off valve. When the tank goes, it'll be a simple swap out.
@@zeroheat5787 Eventually it will be replaced with a 2 gallon bladder type tank that needs no maintenance. That's what happened to my old expansion tank.
Hey Steve
interesting never looked at my old tank for a bleeder like that I just swapped it out for the new diaphragm tank
nice
Steve’s gonna retire when the government outlaws those old boiler systems.
Hey Steve, love the videos. I have the same type of expansion tank. Is the valve with the bleeder still available? If what is it called. Please let me know. Thanks
www.ebay.com/itm/255212601619?hash=item3b6bdb4113:g:QzcAAOSwhNthhI9Y&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoFeKy5N7itWi1VK%2FolZS53YOad30JXFSC1n65rhbX7dmCNKN2F7Ym49qtRo%2FZtknOpsM%2B5JygxaRJXyBPP1uQvLIxAJBuow5WDo1qd4tkCpPju9seXHTnaB9z2H1TqTh%2BXQVa37n21E0di33xmNOq1i71Dei5kt1dzxyxGkRTASNT8%2B3KP6gx%2BzSrSrlJwRqgFGSCIbjrB3X%2Bxh4fnOIw3U%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8b_hrKHYQ
@@stevenlavimoniere Thank you very much.
lil Chooch mama
Does that expansion tank not have a bladder inside it to pressurize with air?
He tells you in the first minute of the video
@@JohnR9965 But he didn't pressurize it with air to a specific pressure.
@@BoB4jjjjs That style tank just gets emptied, and the air enters the tank as the water drains. When the valve is closed after it drains and the water inlet valve is opened, the water enters the tank and compresses the air bubble pressurizing it. It has to be drained periodically because the air dissolves into the water so the air bubble gets smaller and smaller over time.
@@BoB4jjjjs who knows. I’m sure he doesn’t show every detail in his work on his channel. He has been doing it long enough to know his trade. My thought anyway.
@@DAS-Videos Nit a very efficient way of doing it, thanks for the reply.
Sure is an awful nice video Mr. Lavimoniere
Always learning something from you, enjoy your video's!
👍
👍👋
Why do yo always wear gloves? I can never figure it out 😂😂 JJ