Awesome video Chris, I'm the type of guy to take my car to a mechanic and trust him with just about anything not knowing anything about cars, but when I took my car in to fix this problem, he replaced my blower motor and leaving the resistor. So instead of taking it back, I watched your video, and did my FIRST car fix project EVER and it went perfect! Thanks to you, I'm being more confident in myself with my vehicle and not spending so much money! THANK YOU
I thank you for taking your time and teach others I believe that a person should be familiarize themselves with the type of vehicle they own I don't know any mechanic Tha will not take advantage of the lack knowledge of some car owners sad but true.knowledge about anything that is not spread to others is useless thanks for all you do.
This is one of the better how-to video guides. It's very specific and he doesn't pull the camera away when getting into the nitty gritty. He keeps the camera on the project so I can see what's going on at all times. Thank you!
Your editing is amazing. Most video makers can't figure that skill out. Even though there are a lot of edits, the viewer can hardly tell and it mercifully cuts down on the length of the video. Good job as always.
Aaron Spencer Thanks a lot Aaron! I work really hard on the editing (takes longer to edit than to film) and comments like this make it worth it. This video had 1hr 30min worth of footage to give you an idea of how much I cut it down!
Your heater video popped up on my suggestions...I figured my blower motor doesn't work and my parents blower motor resistor (I had no idea what that was until I watched your other video) was shot so I watched it and it lead me here. Your videos are great! Thank you for making them!!
@@LoganDark4357 , you maybe 15 now. check to see if your school has an Autoshop program. also, good time to learn to be a mechanic. regardless of your age,.
This was great, thanks, been searching for "how do you find the nominal value of a resistor?" for a while now, and I think this has helped. You ever tried - Henucas Panrooklyn Equalizer - (do a search on google )? It is an awesome one off product for discovering how to repair electronic devices like a pro minus the normal expense. Ive heard some incredible things about it and my m8 got great success with it.
Chris, this is an excellent video. I commend you for it. Allow me to introduce one small change you will instantly love. Scotch 3M 130C tape. It's a thick tape that you stretch and apply in an overlapping manner. 30 minutes later it's bonded to itself and is water impervious. It's cheap for what you get. Been using it since 1976. Keep up the great work. And buy the way (9) nine months on the foggy headlamp repair, still clear as a bell.
+Traci M I cannot reply to your comment directly (check google+ settings) but I hope you see this. The blower motor can cause a resistor to fail if the motor is running at a higher than normal amperage. Typically what causes this is either an old blower motor (so bearings and stuff internally goes bad) or there is debris causing the motor to work extra hard to spin (such as leaves. You can see in this video: How to fix a Loud AC, Heat Fan (Blower motor) that there were leaves and stuff blocking the motor and the actual motor itself sounded good and looked brand new inside.
ChrisFix Well I got the dash out and that was fun to say the least! I found out that you can change the blower motor without having to take out the whole heater/AC housing. I just kept the old blower motor fan blade unit and clip and just took out the three screws holding in the old motor and pulled some on the wires and the new blower fan blade is pressed on and I had to use a piece of wood and a hammer to knock out the motor shaft. Then I had to unsolder the old motor while it's still in the truck heater/AC housing and then unsolder the new fan and make sure you mark which side the black and green wires go on and the new wires are black and yellow and re-solder the old wires onto the new motor and push it back into place and replace the old fan blade and clip and then start putting everything back into place.
Hello chrisfix my dads trucks cooling system does not blow in the cabin it only blows to where the defoger heat comes out can you reply or make a video
There is a cable that goes to a flap that forces the air from different places in the system like the dash or the defroster or the floor. You need to take out the complete dash to fix it. It's a pain but can be fixed. Look at other videos on youtube and get an idea of the dash removal. Remember to remove the negative battery terminal at least ten minutes before you touch anything or else the air bags can explode in your face. Good luck.
Thanks Kris, I've been suffering in the heat for a few seasons now because a disabled vet who has to pay high co-pays for his meds can't afford any other alternative. I love your channel and have been sharing it with others.
+Big M Smith I am glad the videos have been helpful! Thank you for your service to our country and hopefully my videos save you some money to use for other important things!
Hey Chris, Yesterdays my vehicle stop shooting hot air into my cabin. Then today it started to snow. I watched this video and got it all fixed up and cabin is nice a cozy. Thank you for making this video, saved me from the winter.
Seriously just got this car and its perfect...... and 30mins later the fan acted up & watched this AMAZING video and it's fixed! Thank you so much (even tho you probably won't see this) you really saved me in this Missouri heat 💖
i took my 2010 ford ranger to a shop and they tried to fix this problem with my car and changed a few things but didn't even change this, I ended up changing it myself and fixed the problem! and my blower motor resistor was so rusted when i touched it it all fell apart! thanks Chris!!!!
This is exactly what I was looking for. Took me 2 and a half hours to get the resistor of the wiring harness. Totally destroyed and then realized the wiring harness was beyond corrosive. Prongs were stuck inside it, but looks like it's simple to rectify it. Thanks for your help brother.
Aushena Mayfield Thanks! I am glad the video was helpful! Definitely consider subscribing to my channel. I have a lot of helpful videos to teach you how to fix your car yourself (no experience needed). New videos every Thursday and most Mondays.
Finally had to change the resistor on our 2006 Ford Escape and was happy to remember you had done a video on it. The wires on her pigtail were all different sizes so I ended up having to buy different crimp connectors, but still used the same techniques and worked great. Thanks again Chris! Your older videos make a huge impact years later!
I just used one of your other videos to replace my coolant thermostat, and am driving around in just +6 degree weather with a nice and toasty interior, when it was a cold cab previously. The resistor switch is my next project. A thousand thank yous, Chris!!
Chris, Love all the videos you put out man! One thing I noticed is the yellow crimp connectors you used appeared to be the heat shrink kind. You should be able to apply a heat gun to it and let it form around the wire. I'm a big fan of heat shrink! Thanks for what you do!
Chris you are a Life saver, thanks to you I started learning how to fix cars and in Israel nobody is doing things right all the way through, and always tries to screw you. So now I know that you can do most things yourself and with even better results than a shop would get. Sincerely thank you keep up the amazing work
I had to do this on my 2002 Dodge Pickup Truck. When I pulled the resistor out from under the glove box area a whole bunch of pine needles were stuck in the resisters and the air duct that it sits in. I have a lot of pine trees near where I park the truck. I would think that there would be some sort of baffle or grate/filter etc to keep that stuff from getting into the heater ducts. I used a vacuum cleaner with attachments and couldn't believe how much pine needle stuff had been introduced into the duct. Thanks for the video. Great job on your part as usual.
I just want to add I had the same problem with my Jeep, I exchange the blower motor resistor and I still had the problem, it ended up being the climate control panel that went bad, but I went to the junk yard and found the part I needed in a Dodge Caliber. I hope this helps someone that has the same issue trying to figure out and fix their car. It was the same symptom so it’s easy to get them confused
I love your channel. Beats the high pricing the shops try to charge with the overhead fees! I'm a lady so of course they try to tell me all I need plus what I don't! Ughhhh.. I need a Mechanic for a Hubby!!😂
you're so good at explaining, and it also helped my car has this same setup. a lot of people aren't good at teaching things like this, they skip over important details and issues you might run into in the process, for someone who doesn't know it can be so difficult yet, you always do such a good job explaining everything slowly. so thanks!
Couple things: Really should make a drawing of colors to the connector before cutting anything. The colors might not be the same especially on a different model or maker. Second, those crimp connectors are also heat-shrink, it's good to shrink them down before taping.
Actually, I just got in there and cleaned out a few leaves that were inside the motor, and now it's perfect! When you take out the cabin filter, you can just reach right inside the motor on the FJ Cruiser. All fixed. I probably saved a bunch of money if I ended up with a dishonest mechanic. Thank you for posting these videos! :)
The connector you cut off actually had the Ford logo on it. Real nice that a Ford branded one wouldn't give you the colored wires. I guess they're a universal part and the wiring spec may be different on certain vehicles. Anyway, just wanted to say happy new year and thanks for the videos. Looking forward to ChrisFix 2016!
Very helpfull video. The fan on my sentra only worked in high speed. Dad tought it was the fan switch, but now after seeing this video, i can do the right thing. Luckly i didnt change it
Pete Moss No problem Pete! This is definitely a good little tidbit of info to remember for the future. I always thought this was a hard job to diagnose why a fan isnt blowing on a certain speed, but sure enough, it is easy!
This is the same problem as I have on my 2005 Ranger, only have "high speed" I order the resistor and new connector on Rock Auto ($31.00 delivered) and I will be replacing mine as soon as the parts come in. Great video and very helpful Chris.
mario d.c If the connector is still good then you are good to go and just need a new resistor. No need to change something that works. I would use some sand paper and see if you can make sure the connector is corrosion free to prevent high resistance in the connection.
ChrisFix great video!! Just two tips!...1) Consider buying I crimp Connector tool, it will do a much better crimping connection. 2) The yellow connectors you used on this video are call "shrink butt connectors", after you crimp them to the wire you need to apply heat with a heat gun(because I know you have one) or you can use a cigarette lighter to apply heat to them and they will completely seal the connection preventing water and oxygen from getting in there. Just untapped the cables and apply heat to those connectors and no tape will be requiere!! Hope this helps! :)
Thanks Miguel. The crimp tool is a great idea. Those butt connectors look like heat shrink but when I tried, it just melted. Maybe they were defective.
ChrisFix here is the crimp tool I use: www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0006M6Y5M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1419352045&sr=8-1 It is recommended for car audio technicians, I think it is worth it and you will see the difference after using it! :)
Miguel R Awesome! I will need to get one! Thanks man! I used the back end of my wires stripper which is not as effective (seen in this video): ruclips.net/video/ZVG7X-ae298/видео.html
Thanks a ton for this video i had a problem where my ac only worked on the highest setting and this video helped me replace it with absolutely no automotive repair experience whatsoever great job!!
So I'm not the only one that cringed at that. Though, while i avoid black tape at all costs, it does act as a nice marker for where to start looking for wiring issues.
Ounce again Chris you've saved me time and effort. I have to replace the blower resistor in my son's car because it only works on high. Now the job will go much smoother. Thanks!
Hey Chrisfix I always come to your videos for tutorials. I’ve done brakes, complete suspension, etc on a ‘98 Ranger and now this resistor on a ‘00 Explorer. Using all that knowledge working on the same stuff for the Explorer too. Thanks!
hey Chris just wanted to say thanks for the video it was great I replace the blower motor resistor before I watch this and it was also on a Ford F-650 and wanted to recommend that since you're taking the resistor off anyways you can break the resistor in pieces off the connector so that way you don't need to replace the connector and instead just clean it, but when it's that bad it's probably also best just to replace itl
Thx. Chris, great video. Helped me get my fan working again on my '99 Ranger 4.0L. Just wish my hands weren't so darn big. This would have been even easier!
Very good video. If you watch this video you wii see a small thermistor on the resistor block. If it fails there is no voltage to the resistors, and the blower will not work. Usually the whole resistor block will have to be replaced, but for those who want to get to the bottom of things, temporarily connect across the thermistor and see what happens.
The good old vids. This is the style I subscribed for. Your new vids look like out of touch, like you're trying to explain to mechanics who already know everything.
Chris you are the man. Love your videos. I like how you go step by step and actually show what needs to be done. A lot of videos will tell you what you need to do but wont show you how to do it. You just can't go wrong in watching your videos. thanks and appreciate ya. peace
@@chrisfix Hi Chris, first time reaching out so many thanks for your work and help. I have a '99 7.3 PS E350 w/ no heat. I have flushed the coolant 3x, flushed the heater core until clear, and replaced the Tstat and the blower resistor (which fixed the lack of fan speed control previously only working on high speed), but still zero heat. Can you help?! Thanks in advance, Ben
Great video! I just replaced the original resistor and wiring connector on my 2001 Ranger. As others have mentioned, the 4 splicing connectors supplied with the kit are also heat shrink so I did that after crimping and then added electrical tape. Works like it should now, thanks so much Chris! 👍
Chris You are extremely gifted for teaching and illustrating mechanical repair. Your the the best video producer and narrator Mechanic I have learn from and have seen on youTube thus far of years of viewing. I heard you were good. But you are better than what I heard. Well done! and Well done!... my friend. Keep up this Great work. With trusted Manufacturers Designing more and more Product failure into everyday components every year. This all we can do to help each other until laws are pass to stop this Horrible Trend in our country. Of respected Motor Companies designing products to FAIL. This is patch T. From Enola Pa. As a very thorough mechanic myself on wheels operating from a 2012 Ford E 150. I am very impressed with your tutorial skills and recommend you for the Best up coming talent on youTube Award for Excellence. Look me up if your in the Area. I just needed a review in this procedure for my E-150 and I got unheard of... Excellences From YOU! Thank you Chris. Your Friend and supporter! Patch 09/25/17.
Thanks Chris. My blower works intermittently on all speeds summer and winter, so this video tells me it is not the resistor. Thanks, I'll keep troubleshooting.
I know this is an old video and this may have already been mentioned but those crimp connectors are actually heat shrink connectors. Once you crimp the wires, a heat gun will close them up for a water tight seal. Great videos Chris, you have saved my butt (wallet) a couple of times!
Ive been watching your videos forever just for entertainment and i love them. But it took me awhile to find this one and believe it or not, its this one that led me to figure out why the blower on my truck was weak on the lower settings. Totally fixed my problem and took me all of 10 mins. As always great video. Helped me out on this one
Hey Chris thanks bro , very informative video , this is exactly the issue i just ran into in my 2002 Dodge Dakota, and should be an easy fix once i get the new part and wiring tools , here i was thinking my thermostat blew out , it`s just old faulty wiring and will need a resister replacement , it`s also kind of fun fixing things on my own and purchasing tools , i`m very grateful for all of your easy to understand step by step instructional videos
Chris you are the man. I can't tell you how many times I was able to fix my 2001 ford sport trac because of you and your videos. Your videos are so well done keep them coming. And that's another job well done.
You know I like these kind of videos if you have hands-on experience then you can do your own work especially as simple as something like this and you don't get ripped off by a damn mechanic
You do an excellent job of instruction and displaying what the Visitor needs. FYI, you can either use a soldering gun or bic lighter to melt/seal the connectors so the tape is a little messy and an over-kill.
Thank you so much for this video. I cheaped out and just bought the resistor turns out the wires were, just like you mentioned, melted on the terminals. So thanks for covering in detail the wire configurations.
Thanks again Chris. I'm doing the same job on a 2002 Buick Century but I also have a 2000 Ranger. Great reference video. Also like the way you explain how a resistor resists. Hence the name.
Thank you so much brother. I’ll be working on my truck this weekend, Dan blower will be replaced as well as the resistor because it will not work on the lower settings. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge, I just find your page and you are my go to Guy to for repairs on my 2008 Ford Ranger.
My buddy just saw your video and recommended this video. Thank man, I have this problem on my 2011 Camry lately, but never got to it. Now, I can fix it cause I know the cause. Nice clear instructions and good camera angles. Hope to see more good videos from ya. BTW...you you stand out from the other guys who do Vehicle maintenance tips....awesome job man.
Andrew Pereira Thanks a lot Andrew! I am glad the video was helpful! Go fix that resistor on your Camry now! And thanks for the feedback! I am glad I stand out from the other guys! That is a goal of mine!
Thanks a Million +ChrisFix!!!! My AC (2002 Santa Fe) started working only on the 1, and the 4 settings, then stopped blowing any air at all! When I took it to a garage, the guy made me buy a new Blower motor that he installed and it apparently worked. 2 days later it started doing the same thing again!. When I saw your video I decided I would diagnose the problem myself. Lo and Behold that was exactly the problem. My Blower now works on all 4 speeds! Thanks again for this video. God knows how much money it saved me!!! 2 Thumbs up
I'm a girly girl 💅 💇 👠 👗 who just paid for this job on my Jeep Commander meaning I don't know anything mechanical, but This was a great clear presentation 👍 👌
You Da Man CHRIS, I'm working on my brother truck now. TUBING for what I'm looking 4. Your description of its functions help immensely. I'm AC n HEAT mech no Auto. LoL
Great tutorial Chris, doung this as we speak on 2001 Ford E-350 cube van, your right, i had to buy the pigtail too, it was completely Fused to the resistor, on another note, ive never seen Heat shring butt connectors that were see thru, usually either black,blue or yellow, those looked like crimpable ones to me for sure..
Great Video . Dont know if anyone has mentioned it but, those yellow connectors are made with shrink tube by heating it with a lighter it will shrink to the wire and create a waterproof seal...just an FYI.
Roygrimaldo Thanks man! I actually tried heating them up and the plastic just melted. They are either really cheap and dont work, or they are not shrink tubes. Thanks though!
chris, on a note...I like Armorall Extreme Shield Wax. Apply and wipe it(no drying time) shine second to none, no risidue on trim. Used it the second time, first application lasted about 6months(car is outside every day). I use a shaded area for the job and important to use a good Micro Fiber towel(canada walmart 'FIXIT' 24pcs.) The wax do everything they promise (unlike their new tire shine).
Chris, My hubby did find the blower motor resistor on the joke but it's up above the brake pedal and slightly to the side more at the center and it's impossible to get at it. He even removed the front car seat to get up in there but you would need a child's arm to possibly reach up in the tight areas and then we fear we wouldn't be able to get the new part in there correctly if we would get it out. So I'm hoping changing the blower motor and me air filter will help fix my problem otherwise this vehicle will have to go to Nissan to change the resistor since we can't even get at it. Oh and one more thing now we know we why we couldn't find any information on this online.
Excellent....and very helpful, I am about to perform the exact same surgery on my 01 Ranger XLT - same exact issue, fan blows on high only! I'll post an update after the job.
It's a bit funny that we still use resistors to control blower motors when pwm technology is so cheap and much more efficient. Using resistors to control the fan literally means that it uses the same amount of power on low as on high. I didn't know how this worked until now, so thanks for giving me inspiration to save more power in my car.
In my 2000 Ranger on my 4 wires that led to the resistor box I did not have a black wire. I had a red wire instead. My other colors were the same as yours including everything else. I did the harness pigtail and resistor first. My fan ran on high with the resistor unplugged so it was good. I replaced the fan speed selector switch under the radio to fix my issue. Pretty easy with a 7mm wrench to take out the radio cluster and the temp control out, unplug the connector on the left for the fan speed selector switch, pop it out and take to autozone and get another for $20. Part number SW3316
Awesome job at Describing how it works especially the wiring I need to know how the wiring goes you showed me everything I needed to know thank you very much!
Great video! Very thorough and informative. I have to replace a blower motor on a 1995 Ford Ranger (I am guessing since it seems that I get a surge of power to the motor itself). Now I know that I may as well change the resistor and pigtail out while I'm at it being Ford had an issue with these (wasn't aware of this until now👍). I appreciate it and thanks again!
Love your video...another good product to use on the actual pins of the connectors is Petrox, it is used to help prevent corrosion and improve connectivity on metal contacts/pins.
As always Chris great video really appreciate the way you explain things an actually physically show how and where things are. Believe that's what's wrong with my blower on 01 ranger. Thanks for sharing be safe have fun
Well Chris that was exactly what was wrong with my truck changed blower motor and resistor works great and actually blows out vents better thanks buddy for advice
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Awesome video Chris, I'm the type of guy to take my car to a mechanic and trust him with just about anything not knowing anything about cars, but when I took my car in to fix this problem, he replaced my blower motor and leaving the resistor. So instead of taking it back, I watched your video, and did my FIRST car fix project EVER and it went perfect! Thanks to you, I'm being more confident in myself with my vehicle and not spending so much money! THANK YOU
Chris Armbruster Good job 👍👍
I thank you for taking your time and teach others I believe that a person should be familiarize themselves with the type of vehicle they own I don't know any mechanic Tha will not take advantage of the lack knowledge of some car owners sad but true.knowledge about anything that is not spread to others is useless thanks for all you do.
Chris Armbruster
Awesome.. you are now ready for your first transmission R&R
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This is one of the better how-to video guides. It's very specific and he doesn't pull the camera away when getting into the nitty gritty. He keeps the camera on the project so I can see what's going on at all times. Thank you!
Your editing is amazing. Most video makers can't figure that skill out. Even though there are a lot of edits, the viewer can hardly tell and it mercifully cuts down on the length of the video. Good job as always.
Aaron Spencer Thanks a lot Aaron! I work really hard on the editing (takes longer to edit than to film) and comments like this make it worth it. This video had 1hr 30min worth of footage to give you an idea of how much I cut it down!
I'm off the phone
Your heater video popped up on my suggestions...I figured my blower motor doesn't work and my parents blower motor resistor (I had no idea what that was until I watched your other video) was shot so I watched it and it lead me here.
Your videos are great! Thank you for making them!!
I don't know why, but these videos are very entertaining
Logan Darklock ff
Because they are useful and you can actually learn something and in many cases safe a lot of money. :)
@@LoganDark4357 , you maybe 15 now. check to see if your school has an Autoshop program. also, good time to learn to be a mechanic. regardless of your age,.
This was great, thanks, been searching for "how do you find the nominal value of a resistor?" for a while now, and I think this has helped. You ever tried - Henucas Panrooklyn Equalizer - (do a search on google )?
It is an awesome one off product for discovering how to repair electronic devices like a pro minus the normal expense. Ive heard some incredible things about it and my m8 got great success with it.
😆 That's true
Chris, this is an excellent video. I commend you for it. Allow me to introduce one small change you will instantly love. Scotch 3M 130C tape. It's a thick tape that you stretch and apply in an overlapping manner. 30 minutes later it's bonded to itself and is water impervious. It's cheap for what you get. Been using it since 1976. Keep up the great work. And buy the way (9) nine months on the foggy headlamp repair, still clear as a bell.
+Traci M I cannot reply to your comment directly (check google+ settings) but I hope you see this. The blower motor can cause a resistor to fail if the motor is running at a higher than normal amperage. Typically what causes this is either an old blower motor (so bearings and stuff internally goes bad) or there is debris causing the motor to work extra hard to spin (such as leaves. You can see in this video: How to fix a Loud AC, Heat Fan (Blower motor) that there were leaves and stuff blocking the motor and the actual motor itself sounded good and looked brand new inside.
ChrisFix Well I got the dash out and that was fun to say the least! I found out that you can change the blower motor without having to take out the whole heater/AC housing. I just kept the old blower motor fan blade unit and clip and just took out the three screws holding in the old motor and pulled some on the wires and the new blower fan blade is pressed on and I had to use a piece of wood and a hammer to knock out the motor shaft. Then I had to unsolder the old motor while it's still in the truck heater/AC housing and then unsolder the new fan and make sure you mark which side the black and green wires go on and the new wires are black and yellow and re-solder the old wires onto the new motor and push it back into place and replace the old fan blade and clip and then start putting everything back into place.
Davie Jones Wow, sounds like you did an awesome job! It also sounds like it was a pain in the butt haha. Good work and good ingenuity!
Hello chrisfix my dads trucks cooling system does not blow in the cabin it only blows to where the defoger heat comes out can you reply or make a video
There is a cable that goes to a flap that forces the air from different places in the system like the dash or the defroster or the floor. You need to take out the complete dash to fix it. It's a pain but can be fixed. Look at other videos on youtube and get an idea of the dash removal. Remember to remove the negative battery terminal at least ten minutes before you touch anything or else the air bags can explode in your face. Good luck.
Davie Jones ok so i don't feel tooooo bad paying 500 to get it fixed it
Thanks Kris, I've been suffering in the heat for a few seasons now because a disabled vet who has to pay high co-pays for his meds can't afford any other alternative. I love your channel and have been sharing it with others.
+Big M Smith I am glad the videos have been helpful! Thank you for your service to our country and hopefully my videos save you some money to use for other important things!
Dude, this is so well done. Awesome editing and such great instruction. You didn't miss a beat. Nice work!
Hey Chris, Yesterdays my vehicle stop shooting hot air into my cabin. Then today it started to snow. I watched this video and got it all fixed up and cabin is nice a cozy. Thank you for making this video, saved me from the winter.
Chris - Your videos are on point. You don't ramble. Thanks for making these!
Thanks!
Seriously just got this car and its perfect...... and 30mins later the fan acted up & watched this AMAZING video and it's fixed! Thank you so much (even tho you probably won't see this) you really saved me in this Missouri heat 💖
Totally impressed with your work and instruction style, Chris. Thanks for being this good at what you do.
i took my 2010 ford ranger to a shop and they tried to fix this problem with my car and changed a few things but didn't even change this, I ended up changing it myself and fixed the problem! and my blower motor resistor was so rusted when i touched it it all fell apart! thanks Chris!!!!
Very well presented, produced and edited. And correctly done sir!
This is exactly what I was looking for. Took me 2 and a half hours to get the resistor of the wiring harness. Totally destroyed and then realized the wiring harness was beyond corrosive. Prongs were stuck inside it, but looks like it's simple to rectify it. Thanks for your help brother.
deadmanwalking2010 No problem man! Glad the video was helpful!
You did a GREAT job of explaining this. Being a woman who has never done anything on a car, I can totally follow this and install one myself.
Aushena Mayfield Thanks! I am glad the video was helpful! Definitely consider subscribing to my channel. I have a lot of helpful videos to teach you how to fix your car yourself (no experience needed). New videos every Thursday and most Mondays.
Finally had to change the resistor on our 2006 Ford Escape and was happy to remember you had done a video on it. The wires on her pigtail were all different sizes so I ended up having to buy different crimp connectors, but still used the same techniques and worked great. Thanks again Chris! Your older videos make a huge impact years later!
2020 n this guy's still the best
I just used one of your other videos to replace my coolant thermostat, and am driving around in just +6 degree weather with a nice and toasty interior, when it was a cold cab previously. The resistor switch is my next project. A thousand thank yous, Chris!!
Chris,
Love all the videos you put out man! One thing I noticed is the yellow crimp connectors you used appeared to be the heat shrink kind. You should be able to apply a heat gun to it and let it form around the wire. I'm a big fan of heat shrink! Thanks for what you do!
Chris you are a Life saver, thanks to you I started learning how to fix cars and in Israel nobody is doing things right all the way through, and always tries to screw you. So now I know that you can do most things yourself and with even better results than a shop would get. Sincerely thank you keep up the amazing work
ChrisFix, you are so "The Man"...
I had to do this on my 2002 Dodge Pickup Truck. When I pulled the resistor out from under the glove box area a whole bunch of pine needles were stuck in the resisters and the air duct that it sits in.
I have a lot of pine trees near where I park the truck. I would think that there would be some sort of baffle or grate/filter etc to keep that stuff from getting into the heater ducts.
I used a vacuum cleaner with attachments and couldn't believe how much pine needle stuff had been introduced into the duct.
Thanks for the video.
Great job on your part as usual.
This is exactly what's happening to my vehicle, thought it was something big, this made me happy.
I just want to add I had the same problem with my Jeep, I exchange the blower motor resistor and I still had the problem, it ended up being the climate control panel that went bad, but I went to the junk yard and found the part I needed in a Dodge Caliber. I hope this helps someone that has the same issue trying to figure out and fix their car. It was the same symptom so it’s easy to get them confused
thanks for sharing!
ChrisFix thank you... I’m a big fan of your channel, I’ve learned a lot from you. I appreciate what you do by sharing your knowledge
The Best tutorial video ever ! Best editing too. Thank you so much Chris.
clinton8399 Thanks a lot! I am glad you liked the video and it was helpful!
Hands down best diy videos ever. Chris makes it so simple to understand an very good quality video's an editing. Great job
I love your channel. Beats the high pricing the shops try to charge with the overhead fees! I'm a lady so of course they try to tell me all I need plus what I don't! Ughhhh.. I need a Mechanic for a Hubby!!😂
you're so good at explaining, and it also helped my car has this same setup. a lot of people aren't good at teaching things like this, they skip over important details and issues you might run into in the process, for someone who doesn't know it can be so difficult yet, you always do such a good job explaining everything slowly. so thanks!
Couple things: Really should make a drawing of colors to the connector before cutting anything. The colors might not be the same especially on a different model or maker. Second, those crimp connectors are also heat-shrink, it's good to shrink them down before taping.
One thing: He had the connector with the wires still attached. So no drawings necessary.
Actually, I just got in there and cleaned out a few leaves that were inside the motor, and now it's perfect! When you take out the cabin filter, you can just reach right inside the motor on the FJ Cruiser. All fixed. I probably saved a bunch of money if I ended up with a dishonest mechanic. Thank you for posting these videos! :)
The connector you cut off actually had the Ford logo on it. Real nice that a Ford branded one wouldn't give you the colored wires. I guess they're a universal part and the wiring spec may be different on certain vehicles. Anyway, just wanted to say happy new year and thanks for the videos. Looking forward to ChrisFix 2016!
Yea it's the factory part but now that makes me wonder how they knew what wires to connect. Happy new year!
ChrisFix
If anyone from Ford ever asks me, I'll just direct them to your youtube channel!
Haha thanks
ChrisFix. Chris. I don't get anything from my car's blower. It's a 1993 Rover 820i Fastback. any ideas please ? great info in your vids. George.
ScubaCat3
Everything Furd does and makes is DESIGNED TO FAIL!
Very helpfull video. The fan on my sentra only worked in high speed. Dad tought it was the fan switch, but now after seeing this video, i can do the right thing. Luckly i didnt change it
Thank's Chris - something to remember in the future .
Pete Moss No problem Pete! This is definitely a good little tidbit of info to remember for the future. I always thought this was a hard job to diagnose why a fan isnt blowing on a certain speed, but sure enough, it is easy!
@@chrisfix If the resistor is completely bad will the blower not blow at all?
This is the same problem as I have on my 2005 Ranger, only have "high speed" I order the resistor and new connector on Rock Auto ($31.00 delivered) and I will be replacing mine as soon as the parts come in. Great video and very helpful Chris.
chris this is by far the best explained video that i have seen out there very thorough & good quality
mario d.c Thanks a lot Mario! I post new videos every Thursday and a bonus video Monday (if I have a video to post) so check them out!
is it obligatory to remove the connectors cause i took my resistor out very easy without removing the connectors is that ok ?
What do you mean? Like you took the blower motor resistor off of the pigtail? If the wiring harness is still good then it doesnt need to be replaced.
what i meant was the connectors
mario d.c If the connector is still good then you are good to go and just need a new resistor. No need to change something that works. I would use some sand paper and see if you can make sure the connector is corrosion free to prevent high resistance in the connection.
ChrisFix great video!! Just two tips!...1) Consider buying I crimp Connector tool, it will do a much better crimping connection. 2) The yellow connectors you used on this video are call "shrink butt connectors", after you crimp them to the wire you need to apply heat with a heat gun(because I know you have one) or you can use a cigarette lighter to apply heat to them and they will completely seal the connection preventing water and oxygen from getting in there. Just untapped the cables and apply heat to those connectors and no tape will be requiere!! Hope this helps! :)
Thanks Miguel. The crimp tool is a great idea. Those butt connectors look like heat shrink but when I tried, it just melted. Maybe they were defective.
ChrisFix here is the crimp tool I use: www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0006M6Y5M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1419352045&sr=8-1
It is recommended for car audio technicians, I think it is worth it and you will see the difference after using it! :)
Miguel R Awesome! I will need to get one! Thanks man! I used the back end of my wires stripper which is not as effective (seen in this video): ruclips.net/video/ZVG7X-ae298/видео.html
Thx for the tutorial.
Thanks a ton for this video i had a problem where my ac only worked on the highest setting and this video helped me replace it with absolutely no automotive repair experience whatsoever great job!!
+Shockyxo Awesome! That is the goal! Glad the video was helpful!
fyi the yellow part was heat shrink tubing
brendan grigsby at least in my experience
I cringed at the electrical tape, too! Good video though.
I did too... =) now you know Chris, good work and nice video, like all yours, been learning a lot!
So I'm not the only one that cringed at that. Though, while i avoid black tape at all costs, it does act as a nice marker for where to start looking for wiring issues.
That's right. In fact, krimp is Dutch for shrink. German too, I guess..
Ounce again Chris you've saved me time and effort. I have to replace the blower resistor in my son's car because it only works on high. Now the job will go much smoother. Thanks!
Earl K. PERFECT! That is what I love to hear! Glad the video was helpful and let me know how the change goes!
those yellow butt connectors are heat shrink, no need for tape, just heat with a butane or small propane torch...
William Seibert I thought so too but when I tried heating them, they melted. Maybe I got defective ones!
send it back! lol
that's what I thought
Going back to watch older videos when waiting for new one. Great to see you develop so much in this time.
very good, thank you...
Hey Chrisfix I always come to your videos for tutorials. I’ve done brakes, complete suspension, etc on a ‘98 Ranger and now this resistor on a ‘00 Explorer. Using all that knowledge working on the same stuff for the Explorer too. Thanks!
Crisis YOU THE MAN .what a blessing you are to us that aren't mechanics
hey Chris just wanted to say thanks for the video it was great I replace the blower motor resistor before I watch this and it was also on a Ford F-650 and wanted to recommend that since you're taking the resistor off anyways you can break the resistor in pieces off the connector so that way you don't need to replace the connector and instead just clean it, but when it's that bad it's probably also best just to replace itl
Thx. Chris, great video. Helped me get my fan working again on my '99 Ranger 4.0L. Just wish my hands weren't so darn big. This would have been even easier!
Very good video. If you watch this video you wii see a small thermistor on the resistor block. If it fails there is no voltage to the resistors, and the blower will not work. Usually the whole resistor block will have to be replaced, but for those who want to get to the bottom of things, temporarily connect across the thermistor and see what happens.
thanks for sharing
I feel like a mechanic in the making watching your videos, they are so helpful
The good old vids. This is the style I subscribed for. Your new vids look like out of touch, like you're trying to explain to mechanics who already know everything.
Chris you are the man. Love your videos. I like how you go step by step and actually show what needs to be done. A lot of videos will tell you what you need to do but wont show you how to do it. You just can't go wrong in watching your videos. thanks and appreciate ya. peace
Thanks a lot!
@@chrisfix Hi Chris, first time reaching out so many thanks for your work and help. I have a '99 7.3 PS E350 w/ no heat. I have flushed the coolant 3x, flushed the heater core until clear, and replaced the Tstat and the blower resistor (which fixed the lack of fan speed control previously only working on high speed), but still zero heat. Can you help?!
Thanks in advance,
Ben
Chris, I hope you realize what a good teacher you are. You have a real talent. Super job on this video, thanks.
This DIY instruction video is the best done video that I have viewed, and I have viewed quite a few.
Great video! I just replaced the original resistor and wiring connector on my 2001 Ranger. As others have mentioned, the 4 splicing connectors supplied with the kit are also heat shrink so I did that after crimping and then added electrical tape. Works like it should now, thanks so much Chris! 👍
Chris You are extremely gifted for teaching and illustrating mechanical repair. Your the the best video producer and narrator Mechanic I have learn from and have seen on youTube thus far of years of viewing. I heard you were good. But you are better than what I heard.
Well done! and Well done!... my friend. Keep up this Great work. With trusted Manufacturers Designing more and more Product failure into everyday components every year. This all we can do to help each other until laws are pass to stop this Horrible Trend in our country. Of respected Motor Companies designing products to FAIL.
This is patch T. From Enola Pa. As a very thorough mechanic myself on wheels operating from a 2012 Ford E 150. I am very impressed with your tutorial skills and recommend you for the Best up coming talent on youTube Award for Excellence. Look me up if your in the Area. I just needed a review in this procedure for my E-150 and I got unheard of... Excellences From YOU! Thank you Chris. Your Friend and supporter! Patch 09/25/17.
Thanks Chris. My blower works intermittently on all speeds summer and winter, so this video tells me it is not the resistor. Thanks, I'll keep troubleshooting.
I know this is an old video and this may have already been mentioned but those crimp connectors are actually heat shrink connectors. Once you crimp the wires, a heat gun will close them up for a water tight seal. Great videos Chris, you have saved my butt (wallet) a couple of times!
Thanks! Yea I thought they were but they just melted with the heat gun. I think I got bad ones!
That is very possible. Some are made very poorly (I've had them crack or chip). Anyways keep up the good work!
I really dig how you explain the process/procedure as to what you're doing. What needs to be done. Nice video.
Ive been watching your videos forever just for entertainment and i love them. But it took me awhile to find this one and believe it or not, its this one that led me to figure out why the blower on my truck was weak on the lower settings. Totally fixed my problem and took me all of 10 mins. As always great video. Helped me out on this one
I watched 4 different videos beforehand, I'm using yours..well thought out and explained ..thanks Chris 🤙
ChrisFix, you are The Man! You make Repairs look so easy, even a Woman can do them 😄. Thank you much for your amazing Video's
💞💕❤
Hey Chris thanks bro , very informative video , this is exactly the issue i just ran into in my 2002 Dodge Dakota, and should be an easy fix once i get the new part and wiring tools , here i was thinking my thermostat blew out , it`s just old faulty wiring and will need a resister replacement , it`s also kind of fun fixing things on my own and purchasing tools , i`m very grateful for all of your easy to understand step by step instructional videos
You probably don't think about this video often, but sir you saved me tons of headache wiring my replacement resistor. TY
Your videos are so good and to the point I would not be surprised if your nickname is the "Professor".
Chris you are the man. I can't tell you how many times I was able to fix my 2001 ford sport trac because of you and your videos. Your videos are so well done keep them coming. And that's another job well done.
You know I like these kind of videos if you have hands-on experience then you can do your own work especially as simple as something like this and you don't get ripped off by a damn mechanic
You do an excellent job of instruction and displaying what the Visitor needs. FYI, you can either use a soldering gun or bic lighter to melt/seal the connectors so the tape is a little messy and an over-kill.
GOPgorilla Thanks a lot! Those butt connectors were not heat shrink. I tired with my heat gun and they just melted. Thanks for the tip though!
Thank you so much for this video. I cheaped out and just bought the resistor turns out the wires were, just like you mentioned, melted on the terminals. So thanks for covering in detail the wire configurations.
I've been looking for this in several places, this channel is a geniune mine of gold... I love your work, thanks for shaering that knowlaged
I actually fixed mine by replacing the fuse of the resistor!
Thanks again Chris. I'm doing the same job on a 2002 Buick Century but I also have a 2000 Ranger. Great reference video. Also like the way you explain how a resistor resists. Hence the name.
Very helpful. Going to go ahead and try to find the resistor on my truck tomorrow and see if that’s my no-heat issue.
It worked! This video is very thorough and I love having all A/C fan speeds again. Thanks!
Thank you so much brother. I’ll be working on my truck this weekend, Dan blower will be replaced as well as the resistor because it will not work on the lower settings. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge, I just find your page and you are my go to Guy to for repairs on my 2008 Ford Ranger.
My buddy just saw your video and recommended this video. Thank man, I have this problem on my 2011 Camry lately, but never got to it. Now, I can fix it cause I know the cause. Nice clear instructions and good camera angles. Hope to see more good videos from ya. BTW...you you stand out from the other guys who do Vehicle maintenance tips....awesome job man.
Andrew Pereira Thanks a lot Andrew! I am glad the video was helpful! Go fix that resistor on your Camry now! And thanks for the feedback! I am glad I stand out from the other guys! That is a goal of mine!
Thanks a Million +ChrisFix!!!!
My AC (2002 Santa Fe) started working only on the 1, and the 4 settings, then stopped blowing any air at all! When I took it to a garage, the guy made me buy a new Blower motor that he installed and it apparently worked. 2 days later it started doing the same thing again!.
When I saw your video I decided I would diagnose the problem myself. Lo and Behold that was exactly the problem. My Blower now works on all 4 speeds!
Thanks again for this video. God knows how much money it saved me!!! 2 Thumbs up
Sadrak Souffrant No problem! Glad the video was helpful!
Its a Real practical LEARNING vedio ! Thx a lot for this.
--M R Khan, Bangladesh
Thanks!
I'm a girly girl 💅 💇 👠 👗 who just paid for this job on my Jeep Commander meaning I don't know anything mechanical, but This was a great clear presentation 👍 👌
You Da Man CHRIS, I'm working on my brother truck now. TUBING for what I'm looking 4. Your description of its functions help immensely.
I'm AC n HEAT mech no Auto. LoL
Thanks!
Really like how you get detailed into your projects. Makes it seem very easy for a novice. As always, nicely done sir!
+Great Scott Thanks! Glad it was helpful!
Great tutorial Chris, doung this as we speak on 2001 Ford E-350 cube van, your right, i had to buy the pigtail too, it was completely Fused to the resistor, on another note, ive never seen Heat shring butt connectors that were see thru, usually either black,blue or yellow, those looked like crimpable ones to me for sure..
+Brian Davis Thanks a lot Brian!
Great Video . Dont know if anyone has mentioned it but, those yellow connectors are made with shrink tube by heating it with a lighter it will shrink to the wire and create a waterproof seal...just an FYI.
Roygrimaldo Thanks man! I actually tried heating them up and the plastic just melted. They are either really cheap and dont work, or they are not shrink tubes. Thanks though!
ChrisFix Oh ok no worries.
Thanks for the video! I was able to fix this! This is thef time I can run all levels of air since I got the truck a few years ago!
chris, on a note...I like Armorall Extreme Shield Wax. Apply and wipe it(no drying time) shine second to none, no risidue on trim. Used it the second time, first application lasted about 6months(car is outside every day). I use a shaded area for the job and important to use a good Micro Fiber towel(canada walmart 'FIXIT' 24pcs.) The wax do everything they promise (unlike their new tire shine).
Andrew Pereira I will have to try it. That sounds nice. Is it a paste or a liquid?
ChrisFix
it's liquid....easy on-easy off.
About the best video on this replacement. I pulled my resister & plug out of my truck today. The parts should be here soon.
Chris,
My hubby did find the blower motor resistor on the joke but it's up above the brake pedal and slightly to the side more at the center and it's impossible to get at it. He even removed the front car seat to get up in there but you would need a child's arm to possibly reach up in the tight areas and then we fear we wouldn't be able to get the new part in there correctly if we would get it out. So I'm hoping changing the blower motor and me air filter will help fix my problem otherwise this vehicle will have to go to Nissan to change the resistor since we can't even get at it. Oh and one more thing now we know we why we couldn't find any information on this online.
Wanda fritzinger Thanks for the update and keep me posted!
Well done. Simplified yet explanatory all at once. Nice.
Excellent....and very helpful, I am about to perform the exact same surgery on my 01 Ranger XLT - same exact issue, fan blows on high only! I'll post an update after the job.
I wish you owned the same car as me. The detail in your video was perfect so I had no questions to where anything was
It's a bit funny that we still use resistors to control blower motors when pwm technology is so cheap and much more efficient. Using resistors to control the fan literally means that it uses the same amount of power on low as on high. I didn't know how this worked until now, so thanks for giving me inspiration to save more power in my car.
+ted clubber lang I am glad the video was helpful. I know, it is amazing we still use this tech.
In my 2000 Ranger on my 4 wires that led to the resistor box I did not have a black wire. I had a red wire instead. My other colors were the same as yours including everything else. I did the harness pigtail and resistor first. My fan ran on high with the resistor unplugged so it was good. I replaced the fan speed selector switch under the radio to fix my issue. Pretty easy with a 7mm wrench to take out the radio cluster and the temp control out, unplug the connector on the left for the fan speed selector switch, pop it out and take to autozone and get another for $20. Part number SW3316
Awesome job at Describing how it works especially the wiring I need to know how the wiring goes you showed me everything I needed to know thank you very much!
Great video! Very thorough and informative. I have to replace a blower motor on a 1995 Ford Ranger (I am guessing since it seems that I get a surge of power to the motor itself). Now I know that I may as well change the resistor and pigtail out while I'm at it being Ford had an issue with these (wasn't aware of this until now👍). I appreciate it and thanks again!
Love your video...another good product to use on the actual pins of the connectors is Petrox, it is used to help prevent corrosion and improve connectivity on metal contacts/pins.
The wiring issue with the blower motor resistor is exactly my problem thank you!
once again, i am watched the whole segment without me having an issue on this topic. luv it !! fr ur addict follower. thnx Chrisfix !
Just replaced my fan speed resistor on my VS commodore, thanks for the quick tips Chris!
Awesome Jacob! Glad the video was helpful!
As always Chris great video really appreciate the way you explain things an actually physically show how and where things are. Believe that's what's wrong with my blower on 01 ranger. Thanks for sharing be safe have fun
Well Chris that was exactly what was wrong with my truck changed blower motor and resistor works great and actually blows out vents better thanks buddy for advice