DONT FORGET TO USE A WEDGE (CHISLE) in the gap space on the bottom of the outer shaft housing to take off/put on. Much easier!! And you can just use the piston Jack that comes with the pinz to separate the 2 half’s !!
I've started my search for a Pinzgauer and have been collecting repair information. Moving to rural FL so I need a "nature" vehicle. As I'm watching you work I'm think this looks straight forward. Much easier than cramped sports cars I work on. Then you slip and knock out the support block. I'm going to use bigger blocks. Damn that could have broken your arm.
Hi & thank you for doing this video. I've watched it several times & plan to start replacing the differential seals on my 76 710k. Aside from the one brief Expedition Imports video yours is the only one I found on rear seal replacement. It's great to have this documented. Much appreciate it!!! I'm just getting things together & plan to start this spring with better weather. How's your new seal holding up for you? Anything you would do differently? Also, you mentioned using an aviation gasket sealer during reassembly. Can you please provide the type? Many thanks!!! Any first hand repair footage is great to have for these amazing vehicles! Very best wishes! 👌
I have only put 400 miles on the truck since the install but new seal seems to be holding up just fine. I used Permatex aviation form-a-gasket PTX 7651210. Purchased at NAPA. Also be sure to apply Loctite 270 to the clamping seat of the axle half prior to reassembly. I did not get a shot of that in the video.Thanks for the kinds words, best of luck working on your 710K.
The shop manual says to apply loctite 270 to the clamping seat. It does not say how much. I did apply some to axle, but did not get a video of it. I did notice there was not much residue when I removed the axle. I reapplied some to the same area. One forum member mentioned this is done because of the high torque loads the axle experiences. Adding heat was not mentioned in the manual I have. Hope that helps.
@@OFPA2001 Hi, I managed to removethe axles using hydraulic jacks. Your video was super helpful again when reassembling. I didn't think about using ratchet straps! I used about 5ml of Loctite 603, I don't think much is required and I don't understand how the axle could turn if the locking bolt is in place.
@@OFPA2001 Thank you for the reply. 400 miles on the seal repair sounds great! I hope for a similar outcome. Thanks for the content! Best Always......Bob
DONT FORGET TO USE A WEDGE (CHISLE) in the gap space on the bottom of the outer shaft housing to take off/put on. Much easier!! And you can just use the piston Jack that comes with the pinz to separate the 2 half’s !!
I've started my search for a Pinzgauer and have been collecting repair information. Moving to rural FL so I need a "nature" vehicle. As I'm watching you work I'm think this looks straight forward. Much easier than cramped sports cars I work on. Then you slip and knock out the support block. I'm going to use bigger blocks. Damn that could have broken your arm.
Good job 👍
The loctide is nessesary....if you dont use it you will get axlewrap and break the outher axle treatseat where the lockbold ( centerbold) goes in.
Terrific video and helpful indeed
Hi & thank you for doing this video. I've watched it several times & plan to start replacing the differential seals on my 76 710k. Aside from the one brief Expedition Imports video yours is the only one I found on rear seal replacement. It's great to have this documented. Much appreciate it!!! I'm just getting things together & plan to start this spring with better weather. How's your new seal holding up for you? Anything you would do differently? Also, you mentioned using an aviation gasket sealer during reassembly. Can you please provide the type? Many thanks!!! Any first hand repair footage is great to have for these amazing vehicles! Very best wishes! 👌
I have only put 400 miles on the truck since the install but new seal seems to be holding up just fine. I used Permatex aviation form-a-gasket PTX 7651210. Purchased at NAPA. Also be sure to apply Loctite 270 to the clamping seat of the axle half prior to reassembly. I did not get a shot of that in the video.Thanks for the kinds words, best of luck working on your 710K.
Pinzgauer force good 👌👍💪
How difficult is it to find parts in the US for the pinz?
Use the wedge technique with his ratchet method!! Voila 😅
You forgot to put Loctite before you joined the two tubes, read the SDP workshopmanual n ext time
Quoting:" I did apply some to axle, but did not get a video of it".
I stock like I forgot to remove the bolt.... but I didn't! I don't know the amount of loctite they put in there. Any idea, does it need heating?
The shop manual says to apply loctite 270 to the clamping seat. It does not say how much. I did apply some to axle, but did not get a video of it. I did notice there was not much residue when I removed the axle. I reapplied some to the same area. One forum member mentioned this is done because of the high torque loads the axle experiences. Adding heat was not mentioned in the manual I have. Hope that helps.
@@OFPA2001 Hi, I managed to removethe axles using hydraulic jacks. Your video was super helpful again when reassembling. I didn't think about using ratchet straps! I used about 5ml of Loctite 603, I don't think much is required and I don't understand how the axle could turn if the locking bolt is in place.
@@OFPA2001 Thank you for the reply. 400 miles on the seal repair sounds great! I hope for a similar outcome. Thanks for the content! Best Always......Bob