Maxton are an awesome suspension company with many decades of knowledge of making and tuning suspension for road, race and the likes of the Isle of Man TT. Great company to deal with, will do what exactly what you require not what is best for sales and their bottom line. They are very well respected in the UK.
Another great video! The Race (super) link just arrived 🙂. This video will make the install an easy undertaking. Can't wait to put it to the test at the next trackday!
The 10mm Super Links I purchased from you GoGo made a huge difference in my cornering and turn ins, went faster in to the turns. Riding my favorite roads to TWO in Suches Georgia is a lot more enjoyable now. Great idea and thanks for briging the link to market. I plan on going up a tooth or two on the rear sprocket from the stock one currently so I will reach out to you later to see if I will need to buy the 20mm link to stay in the set up form I'm currently in. Thanks again !!
Without a link system it is tough to produce something other than great suggestions. There are two things you can do to the rear improve the Gen2 handling. You can buy a height adjustable shock, and lengthen it more than stock. Go to 12:55 in this video: ruclips.net/video/NxPUlhih5yo/видео.html. You can also changing rear sprocket size to come up with a combination that puts the eccentric in a position that raises the rear ride height substantially. Do not lower the rear on the Gen1-2 if you want it turning and driving better. Go higher instead
@@superduked33 Thanks, Eric! I keep watching Parts 1, 2, and 3 just to let them sink in even further. I think that the race seat and sprockets are for sure going to happen next season as I am eager about proving people at the track wrong. As you said, we go left while everyone else goes right.
Howdy!! Awesome channel and website!!!. I am 1.89m tall 282 pounds. Going to drop 1 tooth in the front. Stock suspension. Mostly street riding and the odd track day. What tri-angular height would you suggest of the 10mm 15mm or 20mm.
We are both big. boys my friend. First thing I suggest is throw a strong spring on your shock. Maybe a 100 N/mm would serve you well. Possibly even a 105. Dropping one tooth up front, with the same chain, will not change your ride height much at all. About half a mm. So you are fine using either of the 3 links. However if you really want a big change in performance, go with the +20 (which most do). But if you do go with the +20, you might be better off going up in sprocket size in the back, rather than down in the front, because bigger rear sprockets help pick the chain up off the plastic guard at the pivot point of your swingarm. Sometimes some riders on some setups can experience increased wear on that guard when they use a +20 and smaller front sprockets. Just something to keep in mind. By the way to keep this point in perspective, I race with a 16/41 at +33mm and don't have chain guard wear issues at all.
@@superduked33 Thank you kindly. I'll start with the 100nm spring and then the +20mm. Thank you for the informative videos. I learned a lot in one day. Greetings from South Africa
Hello sir !! Could u plz tell me which type of rear mono shock provides better stability to a bike , a simple mono shock which is mounted on the swingarm or a link type mono shock which is mounted below the swingarm?? Plz elaborate which one is better and WHY ???
A linkage system is better because you can design anything you want into that link. You can change spring rate, progression or linearity, even regression if you want (progression means the spring gets progressively stronger on an arc - as the swingarm lifts. Regression means the spring gets progressively weaker on an arc - as the swingarm lifts. Linear means there is no arc to the progression or regression: If the link makes the spring get stiffer as it compresses, it makes it get stronger at the same rate all the way through the stroke of the shock. "Flat" means the spring does not get stronger at all. ...You can design all of these characteristics into a spring by designing different links. But on a bike with no link, you can't do anything. It is what it is. Make sense?
Seen this video i decade to make cnage on yamaha mt 09 2023 .I went with a jack up kit 20mm and makes the ride more agressive and the stock shock worked better.Now i installed k teach rear shock that is 327 insted od 330mm stock shock so i add 2mm .Do you think 25mm height is to much change of geometry for thia naked bikes or this is what acctyally naked bikes need to get that 13° swing arm angle .I know that im asking about difrent bikes but the things that you said about the duke i think cant be done for the mt thanks
You are 100% correct. The same science here applies to all bikes. The numbers might not, but the idea does. More swingarm angle, depending on what you start with, really helps drives. I have been told by some that a flatter swingarm helps rear traction but my experience and my feel say the opposite. Antisquat also works into the equation with swingarm angle. Surpsisingly, so does rear sprocket size. Again, some have told me that too much antisquat is bad. But I have not experienced or felt a negative yet. There are a few key points to rear ride height and swingarm angle to keep in mind. I have been researching the hell out of this all winter and what I am discovering are differences in how you get that rear ride height. IE: rear ride height with a shock or link gives you more swingarm angle, millimeter for millimeter, than rear riede height achieved by rotating the axle back and down in the eccentric hub (or sliding the axle back in the swingarm). 5mm of rear height via the axle is not as powerful as 5mm at the shock or link. The other point to consider here is with a link, or shock length, or axle position - we are half correcting problems with the rear of the bike, and half correcting problems with the front of the bike. Because rear height also reduces front trail. And sometimes when we use rear height to achieve more and more trail reduction, we end up with too much swingarm angle, or too much rear height, or too much antisquat, or too high a center of gravity. This is why I worked so hard last year and this year to design and manufacture adjustable offset triple clamps. It is better to work on the rear of your bike with the rear of your bike, and the front of your bike with the front of your bike. Make sense?
@@superduked33 thanka man you are the one who give me the idea with this kind of informations ,informations that are hide to find .Thanks i will continue to follow your advaces 🙂
What size are the Race links that the Superlink comes with?? 10mm or 20mm? And to measure from rear hub to seat do you measure with rear stand on or while bike is jacked up on the rear pegs like you have it? Thanks Eric this is such an awesome upgrade
The Superlink comes with its own triangular links and the sexy shaped control arm. The link shapes are not meant to automatically add (or subtract) rear ride height. What they do is allow you to add or subtract ride height in the full range of your chosen aftermarket shock. This is not possible with the oem links or the oem control arm. The Superlink links also create a much more linear effect on your spring than OEM, even more than the +10 & +20 links do.
Oh, and as far as how you measure the rear ride height - always with the rear tire off the ground, swingarm fully extended, by whatever means available to you.
Ahhhhhh ok gotcha… yes im ordering the Mupo AB1… probably going to start off with 5mm and work my way up as i feel comfortable!!! So you say you ride 15 front 40 rear to get more top end.. how will it feel if i go 16 40? I still wanna be able to use 1st gear as i’ll be riding street.. Going with Brentune ECU Flash!!! So wondering if i even need to change gearing…. And i already have a 520 chain conversion with stock gearing
@@revvaddictz I am actually at 16/41 right now. I love it. Strong drives, decent top end, motor pulls everywhere and I never run out of revs regardless of the track. I did run into issues with the 15 rubbing the front of the swingarm with certain gearing combinations so I switched to 16 up front and haven't gone back. I was always 15 on the Gen 2 which is why I defaulted to the 15 on the Gen 3. But then Gen 3 seems to pull harder, it can run the 16 very nicely.
Ohhh ok i gotcha.. im wondering what a 16 front 40 Rear would do for me…. Wonder if it’ll still give power on the top end as long as be smooth down low
Yes unfortunately only the Gen3s have a linkage system. But the gens 1&2 can also handle remarkably well. Look for my series on the previous gens. Lots of info to help there
@@populargreeks3328 I was not satisfied either. It sits in my spares box after just one weekend. Felt like water no matter the setting. Did nothing. I use the Hyper Pro now and it works well. Very happy.
@@superduked33 thank you very much, will try sell it and get a propper one! please keep posting adjustment videos and upgrades !! also it would be really helpful a lesson for beginners on a race track !! best regards and keep posting we love you and watch you !
Thanks Brother ! Now where can i get that T-shirt you have on ?? Seriously put those shirts on this site cause all the people who Bleed ORANGE want that shirt. Okay ?!! Hope to see you you at Road Atlanta next year if you can make it. MaC P>S> You'll find me just look for the guy in Front !
Funny story on that shirt. I designed that logo 13 years ago. Took me a week drawing and changing and tweaking the colors and design. I designed it for my leathers, on the back, and still use it today. But a few years in I made some shirts with that logo on the back. I put it on ebay and KTM flagged me almost immediately. Made me take it down. So I only sold them on my website where I posted stories about my racing. Some sold, but not many, and in the end I was thankful about that because the tee shirt printer did a real shit job. They look great until you throw them into the dryer a few times.. That experience kinda bummed me out so I parked the venture and accepted my small business failure. Years later now I find people who have pirated my design and they sell it as stickers ON EBAY, and printed radiator mesh guards ON EBAY, and even Alibaba pirated the design but swapped the "KTM" for some BMX bicycle text. I have approached the ebay sellers and they basically tell me screw off. So now I am left feeling like a morally violated small business failure. ...until I made this Superduked store, these videos, and the links. And honestly on top of all that, my race experience in the final round of this season that just ended. So thank you for inspiring me to revisit my old failed tee shirt venture. Maybe there should be two, and old and a new... By the way if you like reading, try "The Missing Link". www.byeric.com/category/racing-with-eric-gogo-gulbransen/
I checked the manual, only the upper and lower shock bolt torque specs are listed as: "Scerw, bottom shock absorber, M12, 80 NM (59 lb ft)". Also lists same specs for top shock bolt. I assume since the other link bolts are also M12, that I can use the same torque spec for them too. But you know what they say about assuming...
Michelin Power Performance 200/55 rear, and 120/70 front. Usually softs front and rear even in the intense California heat, surprisingly. But last summer Michelin came out with a really good medium too, which I tested in an endurance race with excellent wear and results. But they were limited supply then so I only ran them at the test
Maxton are an awesome suspension company with many decades of knowledge of making and tuning suspension for road, race and the likes of the Isle of Man TT. Great company to deal with, will do what exactly what you require not what is best for sales and their bottom line. They are very well respected in the UK.
Agree top company used them a few times amazing informative company..
Another great video! The Race (super) link just arrived 🙂. This video will make the install an easy undertaking. Can't wait to put it to the test at the next trackday!
Absolutely love the dedication to the 1290! And cant go wrong with the orange jordans to match it all off. Keep rocking!!
wish all online classes was like this🖤💯
The 10mm Super Links I purchased from you GoGo made a huge difference in my cornering and turn ins, went faster in to the turns. Riding my favorite roads to TWO in Suches Georgia is a lot more enjoyable now. Great idea and thanks for briging the link to market.
I plan on going up a tooth or two on the rear sprocket from the stock one currently so I will reach out to you later to see if I will need to buy the 20mm link to stay in the set up form I'm currently in. Thanks again !!
Great to hear brother. Happy you are experiencing the same benefits I am. Reach out anytime, I’m glad to help
I don’t know why but i love listening this guy ❤ great video as always
Its his passion
Very informative as always and super helpful!
Super video on the superlink. Sincere thanks, Eric.
After that presentation i want to buy a superduke just to have this art piece🔥
That's hysterical
Hey Eric! Amazing as usual. Do you have a link for the Ti bolts with safety wiring holes? Thanks in advance!
Here you go Sean:
80 ⋅ m12hfd80x1.25 ⋅ Quantity 3
www.ebay.com/itm/122778757625
Great demo! As usual 😊
Need to order the links as I’ll stay with the stock OEM
Cheers
Will the links fit a gen 1 SDR?
Another great video Eric
Can you run the superlink with the OEM shock? Will it have any advantage over going with the sport link outside of aesthetics?
Hey, Eric. Great video once again. Just curious, anything that you could produce for us Gen 2 boys?
Without a link system it is tough to produce something other than great suggestions. There are two things you can do to the rear improve the Gen2 handling. You can buy a height adjustable shock, and lengthen it more than stock. Go to 12:55 in this video: ruclips.net/video/NxPUlhih5yo/видео.html. You can also changing rear sprocket size to come up with a combination that puts the eccentric in a position that raises the rear ride height substantially. Do not lower the rear on the Gen1-2 if you want it turning and driving better. Go higher instead
@@superduked33 Thanks, Eric! I keep watching Parts 1, 2, and 3 just to let them sink in even further. I think that the race seat and sprockets are for sure going to happen next season as I am eager about proving people at the track wrong. As you said, we go left while everyone else goes right.
@@bubsiesiegel I agree brother. Lead don't follow. Much more gratifying
i liked and played all your video's and i am a little sad that i purchased a gen 1 a few years ago....... ;-)
Oh don't worry brother, the gen1 & 2 can work brilliantly once setup well
Howdy!! Awesome channel and website!!!. I am 1.89m tall 282 pounds. Going to drop 1 tooth in the front. Stock suspension. Mostly street riding and the odd track day. What tri-angular height would you suggest of the 10mm 15mm or 20mm.
We are both big. boys my friend. First thing I suggest is throw a strong spring on your shock. Maybe a 100 N/mm would serve you well. Possibly even a 105. Dropping one tooth up front, with the same chain, will not change your ride height much at all. About half a mm. So you are fine using either of the 3 links. However if you really want a big change in performance, go with the +20 (which most do). But if you do go with the +20, you might be better off going up in sprocket size in the back, rather than down in the front, because bigger rear sprockets help pick the chain up off the plastic guard at the pivot point of your swingarm. Sometimes some riders on some setups can experience increased wear on that guard when they use a +20 and smaller front sprockets. Just something to keep in mind. By the way to keep this point in perspective, I race with a 16/41 at +33mm and don't have chain guard wear issues at all.
@@superduked33 Thank you kindly. I'll start with the 100nm spring and then the +20mm. Thank you for the informative videos. I learned a lot in one day. Greetings from South Africa
@@ultimaterv4979 My buddy Gavin, who I race with and design these suspension parts with, is also from South Africa! And we all love Superdukes
does this fit on the GT?
Hello sir !! Could u plz tell me which type of rear mono shock provides better stability to a bike , a simple mono shock which is mounted on the swingarm or a link type mono shock which is mounted below the swingarm?? Plz elaborate which one is better and WHY ???
A linkage system is better because you can design anything you want into that link. You can change spring rate, progression or linearity, even regression if you want (progression means the spring gets progressively stronger on an arc - as the swingarm lifts. Regression means the spring gets progressively weaker on an arc - as the swingarm lifts. Linear means there is no arc to the progression or regression: If the link makes the spring get stiffer as it compresses, it makes it get stronger at the same rate all the way through the stroke of the shock. "Flat" means the spring does not get stronger at all. ...You can design all of these characteristics into a spring by designing different links. But on a bike with no link, you can't do anything. It is what it is. Make sense?
Hey Beast rider would this serve as a alternative to the link on a 2023 Super Duke ?
Thank you for responding !
Hi Eric, you linked some titanium washers.. where are supposed to be put? I can't see them in your video and in ktm blueprints too.
Thank you
washers go outside the links, under the nut
Seen this video i decade to make cnage on yamaha mt 09 2023 .I went with a jack up kit 20mm and makes the ride more agressive and the stock shock worked better.Now i installed k teach rear shock that is 327 insted od 330mm stock shock so i add 2mm .Do you think 25mm height is to much change of geometry for thia naked bikes or this is what acctyally naked bikes need to get that 13° swing arm angle .I know that im asking about difrent bikes but the things that you said about the duke i think cant be done for the mt thanks
You are 100% correct. The same science here applies to all bikes. The numbers might not, but the idea does. More swingarm angle, depending on what you start with, really helps drives. I have been told by some that a flatter swingarm helps rear traction but my experience and my feel say the opposite. Antisquat also works into the equation with swingarm angle. Surpsisingly, so does rear sprocket size. Again, some have told me that too much antisquat is bad. But I have not experienced or felt a negative yet. There are a few key points to rear ride height and swingarm angle to keep in mind. I have been researching the hell out of this all winter and what I am discovering are differences in how you get that rear ride height. IE: rear ride height with a shock or link gives you more swingarm angle, millimeter for millimeter, than rear riede height achieved by rotating the axle back and down in the eccentric hub (or sliding the axle back in the swingarm). 5mm of rear height via the axle is not as powerful as 5mm at the shock or link. The other point to consider here is with a link, or shock length, or axle position - we are half correcting problems with the rear of the bike, and half correcting problems with the front of the bike. Because rear height also reduces front trail. And sometimes when we use rear height to achieve more and more trail reduction, we end up with too much swingarm angle, or too much rear height, or too much antisquat, or too high a center of gravity. This is why I worked so hard last year and this year to design and manufacture adjustable offset triple clamps. It is better to work on the rear of your bike with the rear of your bike, and the front of your bike with the front of your bike. Make sense?
@@superduked33 thanka man you are the one who give me the idea with this kind of informations ,informations that are hide to find .Thanks i will continue to follow your advaces 🙂
What size are the Race links that the Superlink comes with?? 10mm or 20mm?
And to measure from rear hub to seat do you measure with rear stand on or while bike is jacked up on the rear pegs like you have it?
Thanks Eric this is such an awesome upgrade
The Superlink comes with its own triangular links and the sexy shaped control arm. The link shapes are not meant to automatically add (or subtract) rear ride height. What they do is allow you to add or subtract ride height in the full range of your chosen aftermarket shock. This is not possible with the oem links or the oem control arm. The Superlink links also create a much more linear effect on your spring than OEM, even more than the +10 & +20 links do.
Oh, and as far as how you measure the rear ride height - always with the rear tire off the ground, swingarm fully extended, by whatever means available to you.
Ahhhhhh ok gotcha… yes im ordering the Mupo AB1… probably going to start off with 5mm and work my way up as i feel comfortable!!!
So you say you ride 15 front 40 rear to get more top end.. how will it feel if i go 16 40?
I still wanna be able to use 1st gear as i’ll be riding street.. Going with Brentune ECU Flash!!! So wondering if i even need to change gearing…. And i already have a 520 chain conversion with stock gearing
@@revvaddictz I am actually at 16/41 right now. I love it. Strong drives, decent top end, motor pulls everywhere and I never run out of revs regardless of the track. I did run into issues with the 15 rubbing the front of the swingarm with certain gearing combinations so I switched to 16 up front and haven't gone back. I was always 15 on the Gen 2 which is why I defaulted to the 15 on the Gen 3. But then Gen 3 seems to pull harder, it can run the 16 very nicely.
Ohhh ok i gotcha.. im wondering what a 16 front 40 Rear would do for me…. Wonder if it’ll still give power on the top end as long as be smooth down low
are these only for the gen 3 SDR1290
Yes unfortunately only the Gen3s have a linkage system. But the gens 1&2 can also handle remarkably well. Look for my series on the previous gens. Lots of info to help there
@superduked4507 Thanks, I just bought my sdr... it's a 2016...and I'm reasearch everything I can...appreciate it.
hi sir, which steering dumper do you use on your gen3 super duke?
Hyper Pro. Seems the best alternative to MUPO which is now DOA. hyperpro.com/steering-dampers/
@@superduked33 i bought the WP APEX PRO but im not satisfied . Have you tried the apex pro to compare it with the hyper pro?
@@populargreeks3328 I was not satisfied either. It sits in my spares box after just one weekend. Felt like water no matter the setting. Did nothing. I use the Hyper Pro now and it works well. Very happy.
@@superduked33 thank you very much, will try sell it and get a propper one! please keep posting adjustment videos and upgrades !! also it would be really helpful a lesson for beginners on a race track !! best regards and keep posting we love you and watch you !
@@superduked33 do you have the RSC or CSC? i want something for the road and the track days
Hello, where can I buy those parts?
I lost contact.
Cheers
I like the name superlink lol.
Thanks Brother ! Now where can i get that T-shirt you have on ?? Seriously put those shirts on this site cause all the people who Bleed ORANGE want that shirt. Okay ?!! Hope to see you you at Road Atlanta next year if you can make it. MaC P>S> You'll find me just look for the guy in Front !
Funny story on that shirt. I designed that logo 13 years ago. Took me a week drawing and changing and tweaking the colors and design. I designed it for my leathers, on the back, and still use it today. But a few years in I made some shirts with that logo on the back. I put it on ebay and KTM flagged me almost immediately. Made me take it down. So I only sold them on my website where I posted stories about my racing. Some sold, but not many, and in the end I was thankful about that because the tee shirt printer did a real shit job. They look great until you throw them into the dryer a few times.. That experience kinda bummed me out so I parked the venture and accepted my small business failure. Years later now I find people who have pirated my design and they sell it as stickers ON EBAY, and printed radiator mesh guards ON EBAY, and even Alibaba pirated the design but swapped the "KTM" for some BMX bicycle text. I have approached the ebay sellers and they basically tell me screw off. So now I am left feeling like a morally violated small business failure. ...until I made this Superduked store, these videos, and the links. And honestly on top of all that, my race experience in the final round of this season that just ended. So thank you for inspiring me to revisit my old failed tee shirt venture. Maybe there should be two, and old and a new... By the way if you like reading, try "The Missing Link". www.byeric.com/category/racing-with-eric-gogo-gulbransen/
@@superduked33 sometimes it takes a lot of failures but this is a winner hands down WFO brother I still want it no matter !!!
+1
What are the torque settings Eric?
I checked the manual, only the upper and lower shock bolt torque specs are listed as: "Scerw, bottom shock absorber, M12, 80 NM (59 lb ft)". Also lists same specs for top shock bolt. I assume since the other link bolts are also M12, that I can use the same torque spec for them too. But you know what they say about assuming...
@@superduked33 - Cheers Eric, I’ll use common sense when installing while keeping these torque settings in mind.
you do a great job👍👍
what brand are these links, I would like to buy them
@@TURBINA22 I designed them tested them and produce them. They are for sale here at superduked.com/. Feel free to email me with any questions you like
@@superduked33 thank you 🚀
Have you for me a discount code please😊
email me off the site
May I ask what tyres you use and what you used on the gen 2? Im trying to figure out what size rear to run..
Michelin Power Performance 200/55 rear, and 120/70 front. Usually softs front and rear even in the intense California heat, surprisingly. But last summer Michelin came out with a really good medium too, which I tested in an endurance race with excellent wear and results. But they were limited supply then so I only ran them at the test
@@superduked33 I see, thank you!! I would have guessed you where on a highte profile than 55.