I will take that as a compliment because I love Simon. But i have to admit when he first started years ago it almost felt like he might have brain damage. But now I think he was just getting comfortable. And I love how much he loves the techie side of motorcycle setup
Hey man love your videos, I'd need some advice from what i've experience with my Duke Gen3 (2021) from a pro like you! Im running the stock shock WP & stock gear. And im 80kg dunno if affects anything(meaning i might not need rider height?) So the issue i have is im getting wrecked by any bike out of the turns at track, as soon as i hit the throttle im running wide out of corners 24/7... I do not know what i should i go with , 10mm or 20mm.
Nicke you are running wide due to the SDR's Achilles Heel - Squat. Cheapest way to fix the problem is raise rear ride height. If you had an aftermarket shock I'd say get the Superlink, because you will benefit from more than simply ride height. But for now with the OEM shock I would try the links for OEM shocks. Either will help you, the +10 or the +20. Obviously the +20 does more but depending on some other factors like your height or your gearing, the +10 might suit you better. Personally, because I like incremental changes, I would buy both the +10 and the +20. Also because some gearing combinations are better with the +10, while others are better with the +20. And when you weigh what they give you VS what they cost, it's a no-brainer.
The Superlink is designed to work with a height adjustable shock. The OEM shock is not adjustable. We made the +10 and +20 links to work with OEM shocks, which achieve similar things by just bolting them on.
Unfortunately the Gen 1 does not use a link system. The shock is bolted directly to the swingarm. But you can raise the rear ride height regardless, but using an aftermarket shock with height adjustment. If that is not an option you can also change gearing, because some combinations add height too
The ideal scenario is to have the perfect mechanical grip/anti squat angle without changing the ride height or jacking up the rear because once you do you will alter the balance of the bike. In perfectly leveled surface you may not notice it but in downhill you would feel your bike is way front heavy and difficult to control.
Not my experience at all Cass, but I do appreciate your opinion. I do agree it would be ideal to be able to reposition the swingarm pivot but alas, it is a Super Duke R after all. I'd also love adjustable triples... Back on the rear height though I feel zero drawback from raising the rear on this bike, only benefits. Uphill downhill on the brakes or on the gas. In fact neither did I on the previous Gen1/2 Super Duke R, or the GSXR 1K, the R1 or the Ducatis I raced - they all benefited from more rear ride height. In fact the GSXR was nearly impossible to ride fast without it. Unfortunately I can't attach a pic or I'd offer one here of this bike with its raised rear ride height running away from other bikes going down Laguna's infamously steep Cork Screw and into Rainey Corner. Excellent balance and control. The bike was inspiring to ride fast. If you live in Northern California I'll offer you a ride on it at a trackday to experience it for yourself. Really fun bike to ride fast.
@@superduked33 Yea, if you are heavier than the spring rate can accommodate ideally. Meaning if there's more sag statically and it's amplified during load/acceleration that you pointed out in the video then I agree to jack up the rear. My opinion would be stay stock or move the pivot arm as well. I had manufactured a number of dog bones and linkages for my own use (not for sdr) and I came to conclusion that any change you made will work well in one circuit and bad in others.
@@cassin11 That's pretty cool Cass. What did you use to come up with your different designs of dogbones and links? Was it math or software or just a great imagination and feel? We use MotoSpec, which is mind blowingly fascinating, and incredibly helpful. Although I will say this about software and math - in my experience these at best can and might get you closer to the promise land, but from there you still have work to do. It's not just math. It's testing. And then more math. And then more testing. And then nobody answers your calls anymore because you keep wanting it better. And then maybe six months later you not only reach your original goal, but you surpass it.
Squat makes wheelies come easier. Anti-squat does the opposite, helps fight against wheelies. But there are other elements to the equation of course. Like you might be saying, a bike with more anti-squat will allow you to accelerate harder out of turns without losing your line, which will create even more weight transfer toward the rear. So unless you get into a tuck, you might feel even more of a tendency to wheelie simply due to the fact that your center of gravity is so much higher than your rear axle. So in that case, you would be right.
i own a yamaha mt09 sp and i watch your videos because you explain the physiks of driving and the geometrik aspekts very well !
Great info. Thank you. I'm considering getting the 10mm increase for my Duke.
Another nice video. I'm hoping mine arrives today!
Awesome! I’m so excited to receive mine and get it on the bike! 💪🏼
J?
Well done GoGo!! Put in terms that are easily understood!!💪💪🚀🚀
Great work, went ahead and ordered the 10mm links, now I need to order the Titanium bolts (hint, hint ;)
Good explanation, good job!
Great video, can you tell me where you got your belly pan from?
Tenere 700 is a perfect example for anti squat
Mine is on its way too, keep the videos coming Eric!😁
Have you measured the weight/balance/load with you on the bike?
Not yet.... But its coming!
@@superduked33 I love all this technical bike stuff.
Your way of talking is similar to Simon Crafar of MotoGP
I will take that as a compliment because I love Simon. But i have to admit when he first started years ago it almost felt like he might have brain damage. But now I think he was just getting comfortable. And I love how much he loves the techie side of motorcycle setup
perfect
Hey man love your videos, I'd need some advice from what i've experience with my Duke Gen3 (2021) from a pro like you!
Im running the stock shock WP & stock gear. And im 80kg dunno if affects anything(meaning i might not need rider height?) So the issue i have is im getting wrecked by any bike out of the turns at track, as soon as i hit the throttle im running wide out of corners 24/7...
I do not know what i should i go with , 10mm or 20mm.
Nicke you are running wide due to the SDR's Achilles Heel - Squat. Cheapest way to fix the problem is raise rear ride height. If you had an aftermarket shock I'd say get the Superlink, because you will benefit from more than simply ride height. But for now with the OEM shock I would try the links for OEM shocks. Either will help you, the +10 or the +20. Obviously the +20 does more but depending on some other factors like your height or your gearing, the +10 might suit you better. Personally, because I like incremental changes, I would buy both the +10 and the +20. Also because some gearing combinations are better with the +10, while others are better with the +20. And when you weigh what they give you VS what they cost, it's a no-brainer.
@@superduked33 Thanks alot for the feedback, and quick reply! i will get em both!
Hey GoGo, where can we get a cool shirt like yours?
Im about to order the 10mm.
Im stock gearing…
My question is.. do i have to jack up bike to take off old linkage and add yours??
So i can not use these superlink with the stock rear suspension?
The Superlink is designed to work with a height adjustable shock. The OEM shock is not adjustable. We made the +10 and +20 links to work with OEM shocks, which achieve similar things by just bolting them on.
You have any of these links for the Gen1?
Unfortunately the Gen 1 does not use a link system. The shock is bolted directly to the swingarm. But you can raise the rear ride height regardless, but using an aftermarket shock with height adjustment. If that is not an option you can also change gearing, because some combinations add height too
@@superduked33 Gotcha. I have a penske rear shock with height adjustment so that should work is what you're saying?
@@turkishexpress 100%
The ideal scenario is to have the perfect mechanical grip/anti squat angle without changing the ride height or jacking up the rear because once you do you will alter the balance of the bike. In perfectly leveled surface you may not notice it but in downhill you would feel your bike is way front heavy and difficult to control.
Not my experience at all Cass, but I do appreciate your opinion. I do agree it would be ideal to be able to reposition the swingarm pivot but alas, it is a Super Duke R after all. I'd also love adjustable triples... Back on the rear height though I feel zero drawback from raising the rear on this bike, only benefits. Uphill downhill on the brakes or on the gas. In fact neither did I on the previous Gen1/2 Super Duke R, or the GSXR 1K, the R1 or the Ducatis I raced - they all benefited from more rear ride height. In fact the GSXR was nearly impossible to ride fast without it. Unfortunately I can't attach a pic or I'd offer one here of this bike with its raised rear ride height running away from other bikes going down Laguna's infamously steep Cork Screw and into Rainey Corner. Excellent balance and control. The bike was inspiring to ride fast. If you live in Northern California I'll offer you a ride on it at a trackday to experience it for yourself. Really fun bike to ride fast.
Please send me the information to obtain this linkage. It’s beautiful. MaC
@@superduked33 Yea, if you are heavier than the spring rate can accommodate ideally. Meaning if there's more sag statically and it's amplified during load/acceleration that you pointed out in the video then I agree to jack up the rear. My opinion would be stay stock or move the pivot arm as well. I had manufactured a number of dog bones and linkages for my own use (not for sdr) and I came to conclusion that any change you made will work well in one circuit and bad in others.
@@cassin11 That's pretty cool Cass. What did you use to come up with your different designs of dogbones and links? Was it math or software or just a great imagination and feel? We use MotoSpec, which is mind blowingly fascinating, and incredibly helpful. Although I will say this about software and math - in my experience these at best can and might get you closer to the promise land, but from there you still have work to do. It's not just math. It's testing. And then more math. And then more testing. And then nobody answers your calls anymore because you keep wanting it better. And then maybe six months later you not only reach your original goal, but you surpass it.
Here you go @@robertmacforesman3523 : superduked.com/
I don't see it helping with wheelies. It rather usually makes the bike wheelie more
Squat makes wheelies come easier. Anti-squat does the opposite, helps fight against wheelies. But there are other elements to the equation of course. Like you might be saying, a bike with more anti-squat will allow you to accelerate harder out of turns without losing your line, which will create even more weight transfer toward the rear. So unless you get into a tuck, you might feel even more of a tendency to wheelie simply due to the fact that your center of gravity is so much higher than your rear axle. So in that case, you would be right.