Wish I'd found these videos before buying my table saw. Seems way more space efficient and now I'm just not even sure I ever needed the table saw to begin with.
Finally got round to making my own parallel guides, and it took me far more than the 10 minutes it took Peter ! The way everything looks so easy, itreally shows his craft and experience (or good video editing😉). It took me several cuts with the tracksaw to get my slots to comfortably (after sanding) fit an M8 bolt, I was going with M6’s for quite a while as they were too tight.
I so wish I had found these videos a year ago when I built a Pinewood Derby track! It was my first time to use a tracksaw, plus I am new to woodworking in general.
I am new to track saws and found this series invaluable. For narrow rips I just use the first cut piece plus a thin strip the thickness of the blade kerf to set the track for additional cuts. The kerf-thick strip is attached to a wider strip (about 25mm or 1" square) which hangs over the cut end and serves to align the strips to the cut end. Takes about 5 seconds to place the track for each cut.
Thank you Peter for your fantastic simple to follow informative video’s, with the kids now grown and off to Uni and with a little more time to myself, you’ve really reignited my passion for woodworking, many thx
Nice series. One extra tip on setting the parallel guides: You can set the 2 guides against each other. Procedure: Set one guide to the desired length. Then take the second guide, flip it over and hold it against the first guide. Then set the second guide. That procedure gives confidence that both are set exactly the same.
I worked in a masonry shop a few years ago with an older guy who was “showing me how to use” some parallel guides. I did exactly that, because it seemed obvious to me as a common sense thing. He stopped and stared at me, looking like he was going to cry. It had never occurred to him in 20+ years. Odd how folks just do what they’re shown without thinking, FOR YEARS!! 😆
Watched this, because I’m a devotee to your channel, but didn’t expect to learn anything new on the track saw. Loving it, the parallel guides are my next project. Thanks for the umpteenth time. 😄
Another great idea, thanks Peter. Couldn't help noticing the white spots on the rule and the square, lurking evidence from your recent spray painting endeavours I imagine, can't help recalling those fine words from Shakespeare's Macbeth "Out, damned spot! out, I say!" :-)
Peter Millard As an electrician I we don't use jigs but I can strip cables without marking the copper because I have done it so many times I have muscle memory and because I have been doing it nearly 50 years, I started early as my late father was an electrician and he gave me a pair of pliers when I was 6 years old
Very informative Peter iv watched quite a few videos now and I'm coming out of retirement the power devil has been dusted up and I'm going to make a sidecar for my motor bike hilka drill in hand I'm starting tomorrow lol
Also worth knocking the arris off the stop blocks for the same reason you do on a zero clearance mitre saw fence, or stop block. Saw dust builds up in any internal corner. Great video bud👍🏻
Using a homemade jig to make another homemade jig... you're gonna save me a lotta moolah Millard ! 😂😂 You're also on Freddy Festools hitlist... & NOT the good one... 😬 😎👍☘️
I'm pretty sure his prior purchases give him a little leeway. Also most people who go cheap and cheerful entry level tracksaws end up upgrading later on.
You should put two screws into the stops, not one. You can have the other screw shorter so it doesn't protrude through the slot. That way the stops won't be able to rotate :)
Thanks! See videos 182 & 183 - Festool MFT, ruclips.net/video/0V-p5F7SjO4/видео.html. It’s a bought product, not DIY, but I will be doing a portable bench build soon which will include cross-cutting. 👍👍
That’s exactly what the parallel guides are for. If you’re unclear about the process, take a look at video #246 - ‘wrong side cuts’ which explains it in more detail. 👍👍
Ah, OK. Then I’d use an offcut the same thickness as the 2-1/2” piece under the rail, and tape them together if I had any concerns about the workpiece moving. 👍👍
hi peter, is this purely a time saving thing? I don't really understand if not, great series, looking at getting a track saw, and this is really helping, thanks
the jig, why can you not just measure the cut each time? if you are making projects professionally as you are I am thinking its for many ,many, repeated cuts. ...sorry i'm new, lol.
Ah, OK. As I say in the video, I mostly use the MFT (saw bench with the drop down rail) for these kind of cuts, but this jig gives similar functionality for a tiny fraction of the cost. And as per the video title, it’s all about consistency. You could measure each time, but it’s faster and more consistent, to put the work against a stop that doesn’t move, and put the rail against stops that don’t move and are known to be square. 👍👍
@@whatsthat5482 also, every single time you measure, you introduce the possibility of a cockup - if you've never cut something 10cm too short, you haven't cut many things! This is why professional workshops use story-sticks, and Peter's guides are basically adjustable story sticks - measure carefully once, then you know the next 100 cuts are all the same.
Wish I'd found these videos before buying my table saw. Seems way more space efficient and now I'm just not even sure I ever needed the table saw to begin with.
Finally got round to making my own parallel guides, and it took me far more than the 10 minutes it took Peter ! The way everything looks so easy, itreally shows his craft and experience (or good video editing😉). It took me several cuts with the tracksaw to get my slots to comfortably (after sanding) fit an M8 bolt, I was going with M6’s for quite a while as they were too tight.
I so wish I had found these videos a year ago when I built a Pinewood Derby track! It was my first time to use a tracksaw, plus I am new to woodworking in general.
Great series! The parallel guides are just what I need. Thank you 👍😎🇦🇺
I am new to track saws and found this series invaluable. For narrow rips I just use the first cut piece plus a thin strip the thickness of the blade kerf to set the track for additional cuts. The kerf-thick strip is attached to a wider strip (about 25mm or 1" square) which hangs over the cut end and serves to align the strips to the cut end. Takes about 5 seconds to place the track for each cut.
Thank you Peter for your fantastic simple to follow informative video’s, with the kids now grown and off to Uni and with a little more time to myself, you’ve really reignited my passion for woodworking, many thx
Thanks Mark! 👍👍
Ah. Not until you demo'd them did I see "where you were going" Peter.
Neat idea.
This video is grossly underrated...I would have liked seeing them used before the process just to help visualise but yeah A+
Nice series.
One extra tip on setting the parallel guides:
You can set the 2 guides against each other. Procedure: Set one guide to the desired length. Then take the second guide, flip it over and hold it against the first guide. Then set the second guide. That procedure gives confidence that both are set exactly the same.
I like that ! 😎👍☘️
I worked in a masonry shop a few years ago with an older guy who was “showing me how to use” some parallel guides. I did exactly that, because it seemed obvious to me as a common sense thing. He stopped and stared at me, looking like he was going to cry. It had never occurred to him in 20+ years. Odd how folks just do what they’re shown without thinking, FOR YEARS!! 😆
Yeh ... maybe even marking the cut edges when you split them apart, so the edges always line up nicely with their mate.
Watched this, because I’m a devotee to your channel, but didn’t expect to learn anything new on the track saw. Loving it, the parallel guides are my next project. Thanks for the umpteenth time. 😄
Thanks! 👍👍
Awesome stuff. I am getting a tracksaw now, thank you sir!
Nice. Liking the extension..........and out to the workshop.
Another great idea, thanks Peter. Couldn't help noticing the white spots on the rule and the square, lurking evidence from your recent spray painting endeavours I imagine, can't help recalling those fine words from Shakespeare's Macbeth "Out, damned spot! out, I say!" :-)
Jeez, everything I own has whits spots of paint in it, or a mist of overspray! Grim!
Thanks for sharing Peter 👍
Have to say I winced when you were drilling the stops, towards your hand...However, a great series, Peter, thanks.
Yeah, I did say on-screen that I should have clamped them lol!
I did wince exactly the same point I read this comment I saw it on screen
loving this series
Im loving this series; I really love the song that plays at the credits too.
Thanks! 👍
Thanks your jigs are excellent 👍
Cheers Ray! I’ve had lots of practice! 😂👍👍
Peter Millard As an electrician I we don't use jigs but I can strip cables without marking the copper because I have done it so many times I have muscle memory and because I have been doing it nearly 50 years, I started early as my late father was an electrician and he gave me a pair of pliers when I was 6 years old
Very informative Peter iv watched quite a few videos now and I'm coming out of retirement the power devil has been dusted up and I'm going to make a sidecar for my motor bike hilka drill in hand I'm starting tomorrow lol
Incredibly interesting and helpful. Thanks.
Thanks! 👍👍
Excellent stuff and much appreciated.👍😀🦄
Also worth knocking the arris off the stop blocks for the same reason you do on a zero clearance mitre saw fence, or stop block. Saw dust builds up in any internal corner. Great video bud👍🏻
Thanks! 👍
Awesome is always !!!
Thanks! 👍
Simple and very effective 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Great ideas.
Using a homemade jig to make another homemade jig...
you're gonna save me a lotta moolah Millard ! 😂😂
You're also on Freddy Festools hitlist... & NOT the good one... 😬
😎👍☘️
😂👍👍
I'm pretty sure his prior purchases give him a little leeway. Also most people who go cheap and cheerful entry level tracksaws end up upgrading later on.
Just a minor copy/paste thing. This video says "This video is Part 1 of 7", but is part 5.
You should put two screws into the stops, not one. You can have the other screw shorter so it doesn't protrude through the slot. That way the stops won't be able to rotate :)
They don’t rotate when they’re locked down 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop I would hope not :D I just thought that it would be easier to get them in place if they already were squared :)
when rotatable, you can use this jig for repetitive not-parallel cuts. can be usefull as well.
the area when Peter stil wore a Seiko!
Still do now and then. 👌👍
More gems.
Hi Peter, could you please make a video how you made your plunge track cross cut station
Thanks! See videos 182 & 183 - Festool MFT, ruclips.net/video/0V-p5F7SjO4/видео.html. It’s a bought product, not DIY, but I will be doing a portable bench build soon which will include cross-cutting. 👍👍
Can anything be done for cutting narrow strips when the workpiece is narrower than the rail?
That’s exactly what the parallel guides are for. If you’re unclear about the process, take a look at video #246 - ‘wrong side cuts’ which explains it in more detail. 👍👍
I guess I didn't describe my question clearly enough. Suppose I want to rip 1/2" off a workpiece that is only 2-1/2" wide?@@10MinuteWorkshop
@@dfel way to delicate! Use a table saw!
Ah, OK. Then I’d use an offcut the same thickness as the 2-1/2” piece under the rail, and tape them together if I had any concerns about the workpiece moving. 👍👍
Thank you!@@10MinuteWorkshop
What tape measure do you use?
Hultafors Talmeter - links in the video description. 👍👍
It's the greatest. Don't make them like that anymore though. Not sure if the new ones are better or not though.
hi peter, is this purely a time saving thing? I don't really understand if not, great series, looking at getting a track saw, and this is really helping, thanks
Sorry, is what a time-saving thing??
the jig, why can you not just measure the cut each time? if you are making projects professionally as you are I am thinking its for many ,many, repeated cuts. ...sorry i'm new, lol.
Ah, OK. As I say in the video, I mostly use the MFT (saw bench with the drop down rail) for these kind of cuts, but this jig gives similar functionality for a tiny fraction of the cost. And as per the video title, it’s all about consistency. You could measure each time, but it’s faster and more consistent, to put the work against a stop that doesn’t move, and put the rail against stops that don’t move and are known to be square. 👍👍
thanks, learning curve!!
@@whatsthat5482 also, every single time you measure, you introduce the possibility of a cockup - if you've never cut something 10cm too short, you haven't cut many things!
This is why professional workshops use story-sticks, and Peter's guides are basically adjustable story sticks - measure carefully once, then you know the next 100 cuts are all the same.
7:40 I cringed 😂