The Most Complicated Carburetor Ever!
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2017
- Ever tear into a FCR carburetor? You know how meticulous the process is.
-Cameron
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Thanks for the video! Greatly appreciated! It was very very helpful for this newbie. I just disassembled, cleaned and reassembled mine while watching your video step by step. 2007 WR 450f.
Loved the video Cam. You were rocking the Master of clean parts even back then. I really enjoyed it!!
Your videos have saved me numerous times! Thank you for the detailed information, especially with the carbs🖖
Another great vid! The hardest part is removing those suckers off the bike!
You got that right! They're so stuffed in there. Thanks for watching.
I just did one today, xr650r.. Harder for me to put back on the bike!
I just learned that today
@@CameronNiemela Feeling the pain right now. Thanks for the video.
Millions spent to make it as hard as possible to work on a simple machine
Great video, I watched this video while I tore my carb apart for a cleaning. Keep up the good work.
And that's what i'm gunna do. Cheers again for posting...
I'm going to rebuild mine today. Great instruction. Wish me well. Now I just need to find your video about adjusting the float and tuning. Cheers!
Really helped me out with putting mine back together on an 04 yfz450, thanks!
Just used this vid to completely strip and build my carb. Thanks for the help my dude 🤘🏻
Great video always love watching the vids you make and you made the used carb look brand new literally
Much appreciated, glad you liked the video!
Thank you bro got into carb rebuilds with your help/videos 💨👌🏻
Excellent video Cameron, I consult you, what type of grease can I use in carburettors? to seat oring and lubricate moving parts.
Good work Cam! Been watching all your vids lately and I think this one is my favorite. Sweet to see you succeeding and doing what you love. Keep them vids coming and best of luck to you brother!
Hell yeah man I appreciate ya! This one is a favorite of mine too and hopefully the vids just keep getting better. Good to hear from you Jut!
Wow, killed it on the FCR carb. Great job bro!
Definitely missed the mid body rebuild, that was probably more critical than most of the other items fixed
Yeah, a lot of people miss the mid body. But it's also one of those things where if you don't break the gasket, it's probably fine. Personally, my carb only ever comes off if something is seriously wrong or clogged, so I refresh everything when it's off. But I could understand the reasoning behind not doing a mid-body.
@@TheGamersRace Please save me. Pilot circuit not working - I think. Where does fuel go when it passes the fuel screw? does it come out the tiny hole in the air tube behind the vacuum plate?? (where the end of the fuel screw goes) or does it run through the mid body and go somewhere else? I'm trying to clean out the passages that the fuel screw controls, but I can't figure it out. (it seems to me that the circuit isn't flowing at all. only runs with the idle throttle screw set near maximum. just had carburetor rebuilt at a local shop, including mid-body, but it came back with fuel screw all the way in, and stripped, and when I tried to adjust it, it fell out. now it seems to be threading in, seating, and adjusting just fine. I guess I'll just put it back on the bike and see if it's working.
Yep
What was the solution you cleaned it in inside the tub? Do you think simple green all purpose would do just as good ?
What about the spring, washer, and o ring on the idle adjust screw?
too informative Cameron, couldn't have helped me more! Thank you
Excellent job sir
Never have I done anything to a carburetor and my 1st time ever is this fn puzzle. You sure as he'll make it look easy. Well here we go, wish me luck!!!
What chemical/product do you soak the carb in when you scrubbed it?
That was very educational! Loved it!
Thanks for the support man! Much appreciated.
Hi Cameron, quick question, for the bearing fo the shaft, did you use any grease? I saw in mine some white grease but after ultrasonic bath there's no any more.. Can I put any grease or the fuel cause problem? Thanks
Lifesaver!! Helped me on my YZ250F
You can disassble the main bodys of the carbs, theres oring/gasket that seals them, and its just good practice to clean that out aswell while youre at it. :)
Trying to take mine apart I cracked the jet housing at the top by the plasic piece. Did I ruin the whole carb? Can this be jb welded ? First time taking apart a carb and this happens. Smh thanks for and suggestions.
Hello Cameron ! Why did't you took apart the case between the admissions holes and the float ?
I have a very similar carb on my dirtbike, in my case i have 2 choke tho (black one and red one). I decided once to rebuild and clean it, so i took it all apart etc.. and in this very part there is a joint which in my case was in an awful state, and i cannot find it on web. Do you sell those ?
Incredible! So impressive and satisfying.
Thanks for the complete guide, my rebuild kit for a husky 510 just came so I'm gonna need this in a bit. Had half a tank of fuel come out somewhere near the bowl.
Where did u get rebuild kit?
@@zanr5192 locally from finland. Check if 24mx has them, they operate in many countries
Do you turn the pilot jet until its snug? Or back it out any amount of turns?
excellent video. very well put together.
Any problems with the TPS sensor at the end? If yes, can you please share how you got it re-sync'd again? Thanks
Hey . What’s that plug for next to the choke? Like at 0.39seconds. Like if I got a different carb and it didn’t have that plug.would my bike still run
Hey. Can you link where you bought the rebuild kit for it? I am having trouble finding this and I need a kit with the Air Cut off valve like yours has.
Olá neste vídeo você coloca a arruela de plástico na parte da dentro, em outro vídeo ela fica na parte dale fora(parede do carburador) qual a posição certa dela? Obrigado
What was the black paste you put in the tps sensor just before assembly?
That was like the carburetor on my ktm ! On the black plate that's controlled by the throttle (pentagon thing that goes up and down under the cr cap I think) does it matter how it goes in!
i love these videos, keep them coming.
Thanks so much buddy!
I just took one apart and clean it.i notice you didn take out the needle valve there a oring and screen under there.mine was really dirty and a pain to remove i was hoping you had a better way to remove it
Hey Cameron, could you please help me to identify where a hose goes of my 2004 vet 250x?
How did u out the spring for the throttle in because I can’t mine in right in right and it does not return
Hi Cameron, I have a problem with the fuel screw and at minute 5:38 it's not visible the order of the pieces (spring, metal and rubber ring) Can you please answer what it should be?
Yo, you always have something cool.... If something needs love you are the right MAN FOR THE JOB. ✌
hello man, what does this position do? i clean carb and i dont remember pozicion, i put on middle. but starting is big problem, before clean i start on first kick, clond and hot. now i have problem ./
BOA noite meu ktm sxf450 quando está mais quente fica a afogar tem alguma ideia da solução ?
I have this carburetor on my 2003 ktm 250 bored to a 300 or so but I have an issue where I punch the gas then it spits and sputters I took the bowl off the jets and float seems to be fine is there any other reasons why the bike would spit and spitter I haven’t messed with the fuel air too much
Hey Cam great video bud, any tips for jetting a 2018 Mikuni tmx 38 for sea level. I'm pulling my hair out trying to find tune this thing. I'm writing a Husqvarna tx300.
Thanks for watching! I have not jetting that carb before so I don't have any specs for you. Start with the fuel screw first and then swap jets if necessary. Also check the spark plug for color.
what is that liquid you used to clean @ 03:00? is it octane?
love it keep up the good work !
Glad you liked it! Thanks man
Is the float adjustable it seems like I'm running out of fuel I opened it up but I can't change the float height ?
Cool vid. Installed one of these on an XR650L. Best mod ever. Next time you clean toss the Phillips head screws and replace with Allen head bolts. Less likely to strip them out.
At that point may as well go with flathead
Also on all o rings and gaskets i use 3M Silicone paste used on Yamaha kodiak BSR 33 carb and Vintage Tecumseh Power series 11. Makes the seals last longer.
I have a slant fcr 39 that I'm working the bogg out of. I've done the wire mod and filed down ap gasket rod. I'm about to go for a ride and see. I have to order a 45 leak jet
Hey, Ive been making some adjustments and have no idea where im at with my idle speed screw. Is there a way to bring the idle speed screw (not the fuel adjustment screw) back to a basic stock setting? It wont start up now
turn it all the way in then 2 turn out is where you start from I think
I love your videos they are very informative:)
Thanks Hunter!!
Great video !!!
Best motorcycle carb ever made
I cant get my Yamaha FCR Carburator to stop leaking from the float bowl overflow/ drain screw. Ive polished the float valve seat put new valve.
Great video! Greetings from Finland! :)
Thanks so much!
Excellent!
Great! Thank you
What grease do you use inside the carb
did you ever have to dig into that mid body gasket? I had that issue on a yz450f a while back lil hole was pulling air I actually run the round part of the center of mid body gasket over sandpaper on glass to get a divet out! but after a while of loosing and scratching head you learn a thing or two! if you sandpaper do it very lightly because you will squish them thin gaskets too far, so if you don't see any nicks or dings don't sandpaper! just buy new gaskets! but that mid body gasket will bite ya cuz it will cause it to cut out
Bro I have a asking for you, mi carburetor throw up fuel by one plastic tubes in the top of the carburetor, ha pieces similarly on the sides this plastic have two tubes I think to breathing air and have two. why reason throw fuel from there
P.d sorry for mi inglis
This exact carburetor was the first one I ever took apart. After finishing it up everything worked fine, but I thought are they all that complicated.. Luckily they're not!
Started my first late last night, trying to raise a Yamaha WR400f from the grave. taking it super slow as I'm on my own, it sure looks like the same carb. Ayways, probably will make any future rebuilds seem easy!
My float is really sticky and stiff would you know a good fix?
Awesome work
Thank You!
Man that fcr is beautiful. I don't know how much a vat of cleaner costs but I thought my small can of parts cleaner with the basket was high haha. I noticed that you didn't get carb cleaner on the accelerator pump diaphragm. I did and it rolled up like crazy. I should have bought another but I was able to flatten it out enough to get the cover on. Also, what I love about the fcr is the shield around the jets and the round cover in the carb bowl which make it easy to change the jets without removing the carb or the entire bowl.
Thanks for watching!
great video,But my question is with what u cleanid ?
Thanks! I used Simple Green degreaser and mag wheel aluminum cleaner.
Great video, thanks very much!
If it is not to much trouble, at 4:20, are you applying grease there?
If yes, what grease?
Is there any danger of it getting stuck in the jets?
Thanks!
I would like to see more attention given to the float bowl area where the fuel pump is. These bowls are not as common as they used to be and 4 cycle carbs incorporate a fuel pump diaphragm in there with a ball bearing item and a tiny jet that was clogged on mine. It's much more than just replacing a diaphragm and o-rings! I want to give them items a good soaking including the fuel pump cover to make sure all fuel ports and tunnels are clear when blown out. What carb cleaner is preferred for this? I also have a new can of starting fluid I don't need for anything now, can this be used as a 'spray on/blow off' cleaner or is it bad for things? Is it ok for a soak? I suspect it will evaporate fast though.
Accelerator Pump**
The one way ball valve is common knowledge, just shake the bowl to check if it's free. You can spray carb cleaner directly through the valve and blow it with air if it is not free. This valve allows fuel into the Accelerator Pump without allowing that fuel back out of the pump chamber. The small jet on the Accelerator Pump is called the Leak Jet. This jet allows "excess" pressure from the pump back inside the float bowl instead of squirting it into the engine. Most people will either get a smaller Leak Jet (try a 50) or seal it completely to boost performance when "snapping" the throttle open. Another thing that can be done is to put an O-Ring around the Pump Rod Link Lever and timing adjustor screw (behind the plastic throttle cover). This keeps them locked together so there is no gap, and therfore no delay, in the actuation. Safety wire can also be used, but I'd recommend an O-Ring as it's easier and is less likely to wear on the moving parts.
As for carb cleaner, please remove the flat slide and floating valve plate before using carburetor cleaner. The floating valve plate is coated in Teflon which can be harmed by the chemicals in the cleaner. Also if this plate is worn, it should be replaced or idling issues can occur. It is considered a wear item.
As for starting fluid, please do not use starting fluid as a cleaner. It can leave an oily residue behind on the carb (much life normal fuel can) which attracts dirt to a bike which will live most of it's days in the dirt. Using a light water-based degreaser (ex: simple green) should be perfectly fine. I personally use water diluted Simple Green and a Ultrasonic cleaner to clean my carburetors thoroughly, and then compressed air to dry everything off and blow out all the passages. I've found it to be unreasonably easy, cheap, and chemical free and is a real no-hastle solution to cleaning my carbs. Note that simple green can still hurt the teflon coating on the floating valve plate, so it's best to clean that with just soap and water. They're expensive to replace prematurely at around $100. (Damn teflon...)
What about the slow air screws that go on the intake tube side
Great video! When you clean and re build the carbs do you change all the seals/gaskets and stuff or do you re use the original stuff?
Thanks! I'll replace the o-rings and parts that show wear, however, many times the seals are still in good shape and usable.
Cameron Niemela - Thanks Sensei!
Cameron Niemela I'm just curious, I have a FCR from a yfz450 and may need to change the seal for the vacuum plate on the slide if I'm saying this correctly.. but is there a certain way that the seal goes in? I may have damaged the one in it with carb cleaner :(
Belo trabalho 💥🦅
Great vid i would have seen it before doing mine but i dont see why its most complicated than other pump carbs or car carbs for an example. Its a bunch of peeces but it not so complicated.
When you pulled the bowl off, I could smell the gas turned varnish from here!
A tiny washer o.ring fall out from somewhere. ..I think it came from the jet that sticks out the bottom of the carb..does the metal washer go on top or the bottom of the o.ring? Help! Thanks for the video! :)
1 spring 2 washer 3 o ring
will I be able to adjust mine thou?! lol Thank you for the video, i Learned more here then in the Repair Manuals!
thank you !!!!
Just the video I needed to reference for my CRF450 today. Thanks!!
Is it the same carb for a 2011 yz 250f?? I need help finding all the parts to rebuild it anyone??
Me a resuelto la vida gracias hahaha
Why not do the mid body as well with new gaskets?
Dang you didn't remove the Float Valve Seat, mine is leaking and I'm not sure how to remove it?
What grease are you using there on the rotating slider-shaft?
Maxima
Nice upload those fcr carbs are expensive I tore mine fully apart too.
Yeah they're a lot of work! Thanks for watching
Cameron Niemela what are fcr carbs?
Damian Barahona flat cr just a name of a kiehin carb
Awesome video I love them!
Thanks man!
Why didn't you replace the float needle valve seat?
If you install the starter jet and the slow jet before the baffle spacing am I going to be wrong?
no, but make sure you install the baffle before the main jet assembly
when i started watching i thought this guy is a butcher ,,,, then the clean up and rebuild ,,,All i can say is man your an artist ,,,GREAT JOB
What year bike is this carb off of
I just cleaned mine but now that I reinstalled it my throttle sticks?
What type of screwdriver do you use for this work?
I use a JIS screwdriver amzn.to/2DhqoS8
Mid body gaskets/cleaning?
How much to do this to my yfz carb ?
Hi, i have 2014 trx450r lean from factory and bog too, 122 main jet 42 pilot jet , fuel screw 2 turns out factory pre-set 75 starter jet, low altitud where i live, any jetting recommendations? Thanks
I would bump up your pilot if it's bogging. Turn your fuel screw out a turn and if it helps then go up on the pilot.
Cameron Niemela ok, thanks
FCRs certainly are not that simple. But have you ever had a small engine carburetor off of something like a husqvarna blower? Those things are more complicated to me because the orifices are tiny and there is so much happening in such a small place to reduce fuel consumption and emissions.
PS. Love the videos, your meticulousness and cleanliness.
Those suckers are so easy... if they're clean they basically tune themselves.
I am working on an issue with a 2004 crf250r right now that seems to have the exact same carb as this one, I have taken it apart twice and have replaced every jet and seal with a rebuild kit. The bike will only run when the choke Is pulled out, and while it runs it leaks gas out of the lower part of the carb. I have looked everywhere for answers but everybody keeps telling me to clean the jets when I already know it isn't that because they have been replaced. PLEASE give me some pointers if you know what it might be.
It is leaking out the overflow tube?
Did you ever find what was leaking? Mine is doing same. Intermittent leak from the bottom. There was electrical tape around the fuel screw from the previous owner. I'm replacing fuel screw assembly and see if that fixes the leak and hanging idle and backfire.
Man, you missed splitting apart the body, there's another gasket in there.
FCR, the most preformant and sought-after carb, that's true.
you dont split the main body ever !!!! you only split that if a mixture screw breaks inside or carb has been sitting in dirt for years.
SMMotoboq
I’m curious as to why you’re not supposed to split the body? I bought a Yamaha 2006 wr450f that had been sitting in a garage for years. I took it apart completely and now I’m wondering if I shouldn’t have.
Quick question to anyone who might know. The air fuel mix on this carb in the video didn’t have a washer and o-ring on the end. Mine didn’t either, but the schematic calls for one. Does it take them? Thank you in advance!
@@rudysaldivar4228 Rudy Saldivar i do allot of FCR carb rebuilds for customers and we only split the body when someone breaks the air/fuel mix screw and the tip jams in the port or when someone pulls the carb and lets it sit in a veryy dirty place (shed, outside etc)where water could have flooded that area for prolonged time. we had carbs that had been sitting 10yrs+in various environments that didn`t need the body to be split as there is never ever any fuel sitting in the middle body and dirt etc cannot reach the mid body as it would get stuck in the jets. Factory puts paint in the small alan bolts holding the body and even locktight glue as its a very rare occasion one has to break the body and its also a pain for the person doing the job i guess that was their intention. using old orings and gasket in the middle body could cause a small leak in between powerjet, main etc and it will make you go crazyy trying to jet the bike so always get some new orings and gasket if your ever opening it. plus really there`s nothing to clean in there all the jet ports you have on the bottom if cleaned properly will automatically clean the internal chambers. A good fcr service after a long time sitting should include what Cameron did in this video with maybe some new jets and orings, one thing to look for is the slide plate has a tiny oring they sometimes crack or go bad i like to replace them on old carbs. always avoid splitting the main body 99.99% of the time there`s no need hence why the factory made it hard for the bolts to be removed and not much parts can be found for that area of the carb or when found they are quite expensive.
I had to split mine because some ports were clogged and others leaking air from the gasket between. Not a big deal
Carb cleaner and such will break down the rubber midbody gasket clogging holes.
man, when you get right they work good, though...
yeee broo thank