Dynax ub drys hard , it’s a brown wax, dynax uc is same wax but clear, dynax s50 is for cavity’s it’s a softer wax but migrates into voids/ welds/ seams etc, excellent products 👍
@@paulgriffin647 honestly i would never spray that thing i always spray deco wheel and clean all over and wax fusso or gyeon q2 wax is the best if u dont want work hard* ...i just dont like oiled product so Dynax-UC has oil stuff inside?*
I did my 2015 Mk7 Golf GTD which I’ve owned from brand new which has 16,375 genuine miles at the moment with another rust protection spray called Lanoguard. It’s 2024 now and It’s still like brand new underneath yet .. I did the front inner wings and lower edge at the door pillar of the wings, the rear sills inner and outer areas, and all the suspension and chassis floor.
Nice attempt- but seriously, don't do what this guy has done. First of all- who wants to do this sort of thing mid winter?? Mistake no.1..... 2, One can is simply not enough, if you've committed yourself to doing this task you'll need a minimum of three cans for a vehicle this size, you'll want to take the engine undertray off and any other coverings to get right underneath to cover the entire chassis, do it right, do it once. Mistake no.3, prepare the vehicle properly, don'tdo this without cleaning off old dirt and road salt. Remove the inner flich liners AND jet wash clean with some strong alkaline shampoo like Carpro reset shampoo and a brush, rinse (behind the liners!! Not clean them when mounted). Let it dry completely. Mistake no.4, cover up your brakes friction surfaces, yes it will burn off but initially it could cause brake failure if you messed up. Bilt Hamber Dynax UC is safe of plastic and rubber parts, try to avoid rubber bushes as it could make them soft but I doubt it'll be a concern. Work your spray patern from to top to bottom in continuous spray patterns for good coverage. Work into tight areas with a small paint brush or old detailing brush- remember to tape over the metal part of the paint brush so that it won't scratch any paintwork. Bilt Hamber has a cavity wax with a very long spray tube for getting inside the chassis and gaps. Pick a sunny summers day in preparation, clean the car and dont trap and spray over old dirt....🙄
@ian3792 Couldn't agree more. I used to be a technician for VAG, they are built to a price, in Germany, they are just another car like Renault and Peugeot. Clever 1990s marketing stuck with the middle classes and became a brand associated with them. They build in when parts will fail. The German mindset is all about making money. A reliable car doesn't make money. Germans are greedy.
Good video. I’m currently doing the rear sub frame and arches on my edition 30. Overall it’s in fine fettle with a bit of corrosion on the spare wheel well underside and subframe. That’ll get buzzed off and treated with Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80. Everything will then get coated with ACF50 and Bilt Hamber Dynax UC like you did on the Porsche. To combat the arch to bumper rubbing i’ve removed the rear lights and bumper and plan to use some clear 3m helecopter tape between the 2 panels. Finally the inner sills will be hit with Bilt Hamber S50 cavity wax. Hopefully this keeps corrosion at bay for a few more years.
Thanks for posting this, it's very useful and informative BUT - if we want this done properly the car needs to be raised on a lift, with the wheels and well protectors off. The splash shield/skid-plate needs to be removed also.This way you can apply the compound of choice to BOTH SIDES of the affected chassis area. If you spray only one side you've basically done nothing to really prevent salt and moisture-caused corosion. Not everyone has the means to DIY so it has to be done by a proffesional, once a year, maybe more or once in a few years, depending on where you are. I own a 2013 Golf 7, no rust at all, but I consider myself just being lucky. All I do is pressure-wash it thoroughly after each drive in winter, that's all. But that alone is obviously not enough for everyone. Thanks again for your effort!
I have been rust proofing my MK7 R since new in 2016 with an oil product called Krown. Car has little to no rust on the subframe and other parts under the car and I live in canada. Rust proofing makes a big difference and is worth it for sure.
It's CRAZY that my Corsa C which is 18 years old, which I've had from new has NO rust at all. I'm shocked that a VW can rust this quickly!! My car has only needed new batteries, CV boots, brakes and oil changes . I have no engine issues at all. I have saved sh!t loads of cash and it's still going strong. I was looking at buying a VW but now I'm not so sure 😲😲
I have VW golf 2 wich is 39 years old and have zero rust on body ! When is driven before it is kept in garage and barely driven at winter. Last 10 years is not driven at all, parked in garage, but still have no rust.
This is why I don't buy VW products any more. I was put off when I saw the state of my then 2 yr old MKV GTi and it's creeping rust problems. Great to hear you're still sourcing cars you always traded fairly and were honest to a fault even if the deal didn't work out.
@@volkswizard I had a lot of great times in that old bus-9.5 hrs from the Algarve to the south of France via the Pyrenees cruising at 100mph+++ and averaging 50mpg! I bet you don't remember selling me a set of Evolo wheels for the Anniversary? It rode better on those with all season tyres than those fragile BBS warranty specials everyone loved.
Friend of mine had a Mk6 GTI with some nasty corrosion on places you wouldn't expect. Took some time and money to sort that out. My 15 yo French car is absolutely rustfree, times have changed... (although it still has the French quirky issues, but that is another story).
VWs quality went down over the years. I had a MK2 polo classic and it had zero rust on it after nearly 20 year before the engine caught fire (couldn’t find anyone to steam clean it prior and it eventually went up due to an oil leak). My mk3 golf vr6 is suffering rust in many places. They clearly have known issues they don’t fix.
So ya telling me my mk7.5gti has them stupid foam inserts in the front wheel arch,tomorrow they will jacked up and they shall be removed,I noticed the other week on mine between the doors on the sill a rust spot was upset loads the quality of VAG is crap but like you say they don’t want you keeping/having your car for a long time these days
Im amazed that vw are still putting these bloody sponges in after what happened in the past I found out on a golf forum that my Mk5 gti was prone to wing rot and removed them before any damage was caused Did still remove the wings and attack them with hammerite sill paint😂
@@4ndy65 got new wings for my 5 gti years ago I paints them them black hammerite inside and ran a bead of sealant on the inner lip I’ve also drenched them in bilt hamber uc there holding up great but now have spots of rust on the outside of them,my 7.5 has loads of rust spots on the rear archers too I’ve bought a can of matched paint to spray the arch and then again cover with bilt hamber but the weather is always crap
I recommend to full dry ice procedure and then have "mike sanders" underbody wax protection. Car looks like new from underneath and is protected against the elements.
There was a test by a German magazine where it got 2nd place I think, almost the same result after many years of a corrosive environment but at a much more realistic price
Interesting to see the corrosion prone areas. Using a paintbrush works well for spreading it out and into crevices (worth putting insulating tape over the metal part of the brush body if it has that when new though to prevent it damaging any paintwork). Also might be worth putting some carrier bags over your discs to prevent contamination of the braking surfaces 👍
I had a 56 plate seat Leon and pushed for the corrosion warranty knowing that vw were repairing front arches on mk5 golf’s. Took a lot of battling and actually had an Arnold Clark that wanted to help! Result was two new arches and respray.
Its not that good I have found it needs to have at least four coats and even then its will needs to be done again eighteen months later its not long term protection and it needs to be put on when the weather is bone dry and no damp around, its not cost effective, we have had three clients come to us to have it done the result are not great and it has moderate short term rust protection .@@stco2426
VAG products tend to be buckets of rust. I found this video randomly after dealing with rust fixes on my Leon Cupra. I have a 2015 Leon ST FR, 2020 Leon ST Cupra and a 2023 Formentor in close family. The 2015 Leon is a lost cause, rust is everywhere. Main locations are the door sill in the rear fender, bumper mounting location on the rear fender and the front fender mounting screws. It is in a really bad shape and I gave up on it, needs a full respray. On the 2020 Leon Cupra, the front fender has not been an issue as I clean & wax it twice a year when doing a wheel swap. Usually with half a year it is full of crap - leaves etc. Same with the bumper mount, but mostly because I added PPF between the bumper and the quarter panel. Also covered the rear fenders with PPF except for the sill part. That has been a big mistake - the rear part of the sill has rusted really badly, gone 5cm under the rock protection. Also looks like the fenders like to rust on the inside, between the fender liner and fender itself. The rear part of the fender (so the body) also tends to get rock chips in the rear. So based on that on the 2023 Formentor, days after buying it I took off all of the plastic fender extensions, all fender liners. All of the fender edges got PPF and the line between the rear bumper and the body was PPF’d. Front fender lower bolts were cleaned and covered with a lot of wax, noise deadening was removed and replaced with a more waterproof one and made sure it did not touch any of the lower sill . Inside the fender, as much as possible, I covered the exposed paint with PPF. And after that everything was covered with wax. So basically, if you want it to remain rust free, every single year it needs some wax and cleaning. I tend to use Liqui Moly cable grease (seilfett) as it is very thick.
Golfs have rusted due to that piece being there for 25 years. Amazing. I've had 4 cars with wings replaced under warranty due to it and they still refit it!
Those rust issues are exactly the same as what I'm seeing on my mk5. I had to replace both front wings and through away those water sponges. The car has a complete Dinitrol under coating treatment including full cavity treatments. Maybe that is why it hasn't rusted more than it has
It's ok, but Dyanx is the better and more durable product. Lanogaurd is only a basic Lanolin based product much like fluidfilm that has been out for decades.
@ben2155 no worries I thought it was a recent thing .. I like the fact its a clear film . Yes it has to be done eavery year . But I like the fact I can keep my eye on the condition of my cars . I don't like wax oil as its a horrible black tar that hides everything and makes a completely mess of the car
It's not just VW, it's pretty much throughout the VAG range. I use ACF 50, everytime I change the oil, I'll ensure all exposed metal gets treated. I run onto ramps and make a detailed application on the substructure, suspension and even the whole exhaust system. I'm pretty lucky my car is 1 year old so I didn't have any rust to start with.
You had the wrong nozzle on the can - there's one that provides more of a mist-like application. I apply a thin complete and even coat, perhaps a second after the first dried.
I’ve got a 2013 Golf with rust at the top of the wheel arch in both front fenders. Rust in both sills where the foam inserts meet the sill. Rust on the perimeter of the opening for the high mounted brake light. And rust along the opening for the passenger side door handle. I live in upstate New York where lots of road salt is used in n the winter and had to replace the rear springs due to corrosion. The car comes with a 12 year rust warranty and VW will be repairing all of these corrosion problems under warranty. The dealer’s body shop is taking many months to schedule the repair. So far I’ve waited 5 months and they tell me I need to wait a few more weeks. After watching this video I will have some additional questions as to how they intend to repair the rust. What are the corrosion warranties for VW’s in Europe?
Great video! I've been working on my css over the winter, mine too is very low mileage and garaged but still quite a lot of rusty suspension parts, I sanded everything back to bare and painted but I'm gonna order up some Dynax now too, good advice on the arch foam, never even crossed my mind when I had the inner guards removed!
Applied it to the new rear axle, subframe, wisbones etc... on my 1.8t mk4 before it hit the road again in December and find it has loads of dust/debris etc stuck to it now.. will try the bilt hamber on my mk7 R see if its less sticky lol
Don’t get the Bithammer on any rubber components, brake hoses or gators, the solvent in the aerosol wax softens and attacks rubber components. And don’t get any at all on brake discs as it impregnates the pass. 😊
To prevent corrosion on these I would recommend removing the front and rear bumper corners where it clips to the wing and clean them out periodically Dirt and polish etc builds up in the gap and rubs the paint off under the arches
I’ve just bought a 2018 golf. I’m aware of these issues as my other car was a mrk 5 golf but Vw replaced my wings but not sure if they’ll do it on this car if the wings started to rust . I’ve removed only one of the foam blocks like you said but going to see if it makes much difference to the noise. I was thinking now that I’ve seen the blocks could we not cut the block down were it fits into the wing then the water wouldn’t collect and if it dosnt stay in place maybee silicone the foam in place
Good video 👍. The quality of VAG group has gone down alot, my old mk4 golf had half the amount of rust my wifes current mk3 Scirocco has. Why more people are importing VAG cars now from Japan, less rust on them due to how they treat their roads and climate is alot better
I might hope that VAG imported to Japan would still have the same build quality as those sold here. JDM cars don't (or didn't) tend to have the same rust-proofing applied as the same vehicles they made for export. That at least is the common perception.
I noticed the fabric rear wheel arch liners on our Golf R 7.5 are leaving 7mm wide X 5cm long gap over to the metal bodywork in one place. That will let water/mud etc in behind the fabric.It is a poor design. I peered into the arches of other VW models, including a GTI, Polo etc, and those had no such gaps. Why the GTI has a better design beats me. I am going to cover/fill the gaps with Sika-seal super 200 and see how it goes. Sika-seal super 200 is a hybrid of acrylic and silicone rubber that cures to a MUCH tougher substance than silicone rubber alone and does not tear or split Water cleanup before cured. Not for external use is stated but I have found no breakdown after 3 years in Australian direct sunlight..
I checked the front arch/sill areas when I bought my 65 plate R on 29k miles a few months ago (thanks to your buyer's guide). No issues. I'm scared to check this thoroughly now 😂 car is kept in an underground car park but gets covered in salt every time I go out in it. Think I'll have to do this soon... You should get affiliate links for the products by the way.
The Audi A3 is constructed in much the same way... and rusts in much the same way. Im a big fan of Bilt Hamber products and have used it (on my A3) in pretty much the same places you have used here.
Funny thing is I have just done a load of this on my 2015 Passat Alltrack, my findings were quite shocking, I pulled off all of the wheel arch liners and in some areas patchy rust was already evident, i treated it with Por15 and painted over it with their paint, it looks like the factory don't underseal or wax anything in these areas or even lacquer it, when i think what i used to with my old Ford Cortina's was waxolyl surely to god we buy these expensive cars and then have to waxoyl them?? The rear beam and suspenion components weren't great either, I have also removed the mud and crap from the front where the liner joins the sill and waxed it, great video but shocking how crap the protection is
I have two Mk3 Golfs and both are rusty af. It really depends in which country they were bought. The German ones and Italy i think were the best and had the best paint/protection. The balkan & east europe ones are more prone to rust.
@@FIIIIIIP I have to clarify....my car was actually built at Puebla Mexico....VW had shut down the Westmoreland PA, USA plant in 1992. I'm pretty shocked my car has held up that well, because the build quality wasn't that great, but the car has been very reliable, even the AC system still works like the day I bought it brand new back in 95, it's fantastic! Still blows 38 F ! and that system has NEVER been touched!
@@FIIIIIIP My L reg Mk3 (purchased 1999) had a small spot of bubbling above the drivers side windscreen. Thankfully never got any worse. Had it up to 125,000 miles.
Rust? Really? Shame on VW. My Golf 4 GTi TDi had none back in the days. I removed the foam blocks behind the front fenders, cleaned all wheel arches in the summer and used ML / Tectyl on vulnerable locations. The car drove long after I had sold it. I think it was scraped eventually due to high mileage.
My mk3 cupra 2018 has the same rust as the mk7 gti. The NS sideskirt at the front corner is completely rusted onto the sideskirt by 2-3cm across. Its a joke
I had a 19 reg Vw Passat which i sold 12 months ago. That had tiny bits of rust in random places. I thought it was quite poor for a VW of that age. Not really any better then a Mondeo or Insignia of that age
Yeah, whoever had my car last must have parked under a tree. When i lifted the bonnet i noticed lots of leaves etc but never realised in each corner it goes down the inner wings. After taking the wheels off the front. Taking off the wheel arch liner uncovered all i can call wet mulch stuck right in there, plus vw/seat sponge soaking wet sound deadener doesn't help. What a mess. Terrible design 😢
I'm skeptical as well as there was a fad for undercoating classic cars in the 80's and it turned out to have been a terrible idea unless you were fully confident all issues had been treated beforehand. It just locked the rust in and as soon as the protective layer got punctured or stuff got in from the other side you had a whole heap of problems.
Interesting. I have a 2016 Golf 7 GTD Variant that just hit 300.000km (~187k miles) a few days ago and my Golf has absolutely no rust whatsoever. I checked, but none of those spots show any sign of corrosion or previous corrosion. Just the edge of the lower part of the hatch has some rust that you can only see when you look for it, but that's due to the previous owner having had a low garage ceiling and his hatch hitting the ceiling, rubbing the paint off in the process. I'm just gonna sand the edge down a little, apply some primer and go over it using a paint pen so it looks good again and won't rust again.
That's a good question. You do need to be careful in the arches anyway as it's not hard to damage the relatively soft underseal on some cars so on that basis it should be OK with the usual care
I have this stuff in the arches of my A3 and it stands up to pressure washing easy. It’s still on after 2 years. It will deteriorate eventually but you’ll need a solvent to remove it properly.
Great episode showing this procedure thank you it’s so interesting how all cars suffer young and old. On my mk5 R32 I had all these area on the body work seen to when I purchased the car and one day would love to investigate underneath replace and protect all components where necessary. Brilliant thank you Andrew Love the clubsport s GTI VDub:)
I suspect bean counters are not unrelated to this Dave, but galvanisation can still be damaged by chips (I've often seen rusty chips on galvanised cars)
I'm looking forward to my next Corolla, I've known VAG have been poor for a long time. Not worth the 'premium' (lmao) they charge because they think they are better, they aint.
From owning a 90s civic for 20 years, rust was on ongoing battle. I used Rust Bullet paint esp useful for high impact areas. The stuff sets like concrete, extremely hard wearing. It was developed for the US military, used on wing tips of US fighter jets, warships and other hardware, so its been used in extremely harsh conditions. One tip, don't get it on your skin, it takes weeks to come off.
Thanks to my local council’s stupid rules, no I don’t. Moving again soon so will just buy a house with a double garage rather than assume I can build. Ironically they will approve 2 new houses on my plot but not a double garage 🤔
Great video, Andrew. My 64 Plate Golf R had started to show corrosion at the very bottom of the two front wings. I used Dinitrol 4941 which was great and has lasted and fitted mudflaps👍
Thanks Andrew, appreciate the owner feedback. Good to know you treated it and it didn't come back. Doing it yourself is the only way to be sure it's been treated properly. I always wondered if bodyshops can be bothered to treat rust before painting when they've been asked to repair it..?
Hi Andrew, thank you gor your honesty regarding rust issues on Mk7.5 Golf's. Drspite our 2014 GTD having an awful reliability record, at leasr it's not going rusty. I had been thinking about replacing it with a Mk7.5 GTi or R, however, have there only been a few isolated cases of rust on these later cars, or is the build quality that poor that they'll start rust quicker than Mk3 Golf's? Mosr of us knock Ford and other mid market brands for their inferior build quality, but my Mother in Law's Mk2 Focus has been far more reliable (and rust resistant) than the Mk5 and Mk7 Golf's we've owned.
Mmm. I genuinely appreciate your logic in doing this however…..I feel it’s completely unnecessary for 99.9% of car owners out there. As I say, it’s a personal choice but a blast with a pressure washer under the car every couple of weeks in the winter, and most cars will be fine.
I wish it was that bar Tom, I got the bumper off in the summer and it was solid and intact, car was completely virginal in every area apart from one...it had front discs and pads and it looks like pads spring clips aren't in correctly and allow movement. I bought it in Feb and it was quiet, got worse as weather warmed up. Late summer I could move callipers by hand and they would clonk. Today at zero degrees it's perfectly silent and callipers don't clonk so must be something to do with expansion. I would get the pads off and adjust the clips but pointless now as it's still quiet so one for spring and summer, pretty confident it's those because callipers make a noise by hand that's similar and they've been touched before. Also it's left and right side making the (clanking) noise when driving and both callipers make the clanking noise by hand so fingers crossed :)
Considering the amount of plastic that will fail in a VW's enginebay. Over engineered when it's a massive job to replace a water 💧 pump & you need a diagnostic computer 🙃. Maybe it's a race to the bottom of the barrel amoungst manufacturers?
Great vid. Cleaned out behind the front arch liners on my Mk7R last winter, should have binned the foams, been squeezing the water from them through the door wing gap 😔 need to get them all off soon and get blasting with the Dynax. Used lanoguard on new running gear on my mk4 1.8t last month but find lots of debris sticking to it. Is the dynax as sticky?
Great video, Id also recommend EM121 Epoxy rust proofing. A friend uses it on his JDM STI scoobs and it seems to hold up to UK weather well, plus is a bit thicker. You can request custom colours to for anyone wishing to keep the "OEM" look (although its not OEM).
Hi Andrew, very helpful video, thank you. Did you have to do any work in advance of applying the wax, such as removing surface corrosion with a wire brush? Or can the Dynax can be applied without this being necessary?
Hi Andrew. Foam inserts hopefully binned for the Mk8? If not, out they come! It's like a bodge job not something you'd expect from a major manufacturer.
@@volkswizard fingers crossed. But depending on what I see, I think I will get that bilt hamber stuff and protect those areas. Since your videos a few years ago protecting the R variant you had with the vw protectant has got me thinking….
My second CSS had 2k miles and was used in one winter and the rust on th suspension components was unreal. To the point where I did a complete rear underside refurb on it. Have a look on detailingworld. VW components are all cheap steel with a light coating of black satin paint. Dreadful. In the end I sold my car. The first one I had was protected underneath with dynorol. It worked well but collected every bit of crap. When these cars were new or even a new Mk8 GtI / R I would 100% be coating the underside. BH products are brilliant.
I would have it done by a professional instead of spraying some around myself. It costs a bit but then you can be sure that it is good and you have a warranty. Moreover, Dinitrol is still the best anti-rust agent. But if you really don't want rust, don't buy a Volkswagen!
Dinitrol is shit. I’ve had it crack, both underbody and cavity. Would end up causing more trouble than it solves. They weren’t interested when I contacted them.
@@royfontaine5526 No, of course they weren’t interested. Anyone who uses Dinitrol in any way knows that it remains supple and self-healing for years and has very good penetrating properties. If your stuff is cracking, it certainly wasn't Dinitrol you used.
@@royfontaine5526 It's about the product. The best retailer sells exactly the same product as the worst retailer, that doesn't mean anything. Furthermore, it's your car and your rust and that's fine as far as I'm concerned, you don't have to convince me.
I think someone said that about the GT4. TBH it's not that hard to avoid them but appreciate you can be a little bit less cautious if covered which takes very little time.
Hi bud I moved to Canada about ten years ago and talk about rust.winter here just kills your car but anyway I’m looking at 2019 to 2020 s3 do you know of any rust areas I should look for? Really enjoy the channel keep up the good work.
I knew a few people back in the day that would use black Hammerite paint inside their arches to protect them...and also paint their break pipes with it to protect them from water-corrosion....
Hi Andrew, another great video. I wish I had watched this and used spray on wax instead of using a thick layer of tarmac to cover all my suspension components and undertray . Still at least the little white stones they used to compliment the tarmac, look lovely 😊
This is not even proper rust. Thing will last a long time if he protects it. I'm glad people make some effort to keep cars last so they don't have to consume more.
Thank you Andrew for another excellent video as a 2020 golf R owner your videos are always interesting I’ve always cavity waxed my cars when I bought this golf two years ago I did it. I’m going to revisit it now after watching this video keep up the good work
I’m a bit surprised at the front wheel arches, having just changed the alternator on my mk3 Octavia, based on the golf 7, and having therefore to spend more time removing plastic wheel arches and under trays than doing the alternator, there is body coloured paint some of which is stone chip where there seems to be just primer on the golf. Is this a special primer Skoda don’t get ?
Gosh they don't build them like the mk2 or mk4 or even the mk3 which was a rust bucket of its day. Surprised to see so little stone chip paint in the arches. Your efforts will secure the future of the car for sure.
Thanks Matt, glad you approve. Yes those arches are very sparsely treated, you only have to look at the GT4 to remember what they used to be like. I always used to be careful to avoid pressure washing stone chip protector in wheel arches, on Mk7 there is just seam sealer on the joints and that's pretty much it. MQB platform was created to save VWG money and this is one of the many ways.
I've just imported a Mk6 Golf Gti . It's an Adidas model and it's done 32,000 miles. When I say it's like brand new underneath it really is. It could pass for a 1000 mile car. It surely must be something to do with the amount of salt which is dumped on to UK roads as to why UK cars suffer with rust .
Just remember Bilt Hamber do a hard wax for high impact areas
Nice one, didn't know but now I do!
What's the hard wax called?
Dynax ub drys hard , it’s a brown wax, dynax uc is same wax but clear, dynax s50 is for cavity’s it’s a softer wax but migrates into voids/ welds/ seams etc, excellent products 👍
@@paulgriffin647 honestly i would never spray that thing i always spray deco wheel and clean all over and wax fusso or gyeon q2 wax is the best if u dont want work hard* ...i just dont like oiled product so Dynax-UC has oil stuff inside?*
Yep Dynax S50
Use a brush also to work it in.
Also comes with along tube for cavities etc
When I do that sort of job I put a plastic bag over the brake disc - just saves any wax contaminating the disc / pads.
I did my 2015 Mk7 Golf GTD which I’ve owned from brand new which has 16,375 genuine miles at the moment with another rust protection spray called Lanoguard. It’s 2024 now and It’s still like brand new underneath yet .. I did the front inner wings and lower edge at the door pillar of the wings, the rear sills inner and outer areas, and all the suspension and chassis floor.
Nice attempt- but seriously, don't do what this guy has done. First of all- who wants to do this sort of thing mid winter?? Mistake no.1..... 2, One can is simply not enough, if you've committed yourself to doing this task you'll need a minimum of three cans for a vehicle this size, you'll want to take the engine undertray off and any other coverings to get right underneath to cover the entire chassis, do it right, do it once. Mistake no.3, prepare the vehicle properly, don'tdo this without cleaning off old dirt and road salt. Remove the inner flich liners AND jet wash clean with some strong alkaline shampoo like Carpro reset shampoo and a brush, rinse (behind the liners!! Not clean them when mounted). Let it dry completely. Mistake no.4, cover up your brakes friction surfaces, yes it will burn off but initially it could cause brake failure if you messed up. Bilt Hamber Dynax UC is safe of plastic and rubber parts, try to avoid rubber bushes as it could make them soft but I doubt it'll be a concern. Work your spray patern from to top to bottom in continuous spray patterns for good coverage. Work into tight areas with a small paint brush or old detailing brush- remember to tape over the metal part of the paint brush so that it won't scratch any paintwork. Bilt Hamber has a cavity wax with a very long spray tube for getting inside the chassis and gaps. Pick a sunny summers day in preparation, clean the car and dont trap and spray over old dirt....🙄
Hes about 2 months too late , you should of done a video , the golf 8 new is already rusting complete shit show they are
@ian3792 Couldn't agree more. I used to be a technician for VAG, they are built to a price, in Germany, they are just another car like Renault and Peugeot. Clever 1990s marketing stuck with the middle classes and became a brand associated with them. They build in when parts will fail. The German mindset is all about making money. A reliable car doesn't make money. Germans are greedy.
Good video. I’m currently doing the rear sub frame and arches on my edition 30. Overall it’s in fine fettle with a bit of corrosion on the spare wheel well underside and subframe. That’ll get buzzed off and treated with Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80. Everything will then get coated with ACF50 and Bilt Hamber Dynax UC like you did on the Porsche. To combat the arch to bumper rubbing i’ve removed the rear lights and bumper and plan to use some clear 3m helecopter tape between the 2 panels. Finally the inner sills will be hit with Bilt Hamber S50 cavity wax. Hopefully this keeps corrosion at bay for a few more years.
Thanks for posting this, it's very useful and informative BUT - if we want this done properly the car needs to be raised on a lift, with the wheels and well protectors off. The splash shield/skid-plate needs to be removed also.This way you can apply the compound of choice to BOTH SIDES of the affected chassis area. If you spray only one side you've basically done nothing to really prevent salt and moisture-caused corosion. Not everyone has the means to DIY so it has to be done by a proffesional, once a year, maybe more or once in a few years, depending on where you are. I own a 2013 Golf 7, no rust at all, but I consider myself just being lucky. All I do is pressure-wash it thoroughly after each drive in winter, that's all. But that alone is obviously not enough for everyone. Thanks again for your effort!
I have been rust proofing my MK7 R since new in 2016 with an oil product called Krown. Car has little to no rust on the subframe and other parts under the car and I live in canada. Rust proofing makes a big difference and is worth it for sure.
Krown is great stuff
It's CRAZY that my Corsa C which is 18 years old, which I've had from new has NO rust at all. I'm shocked that a VW can rust this quickly!! My car has only needed new batteries, CV boots, brakes and oil changes . I have no engine issues at all. I have saved sh!t loads of cash and it's still going strong. I was looking at buying a VW but now I'm not so sure 😲😲
I have VW golf 2 wich is 39 years old and have zero rust on body ! When is driven before it is kept in garage and barely driven at winter. Last 10 years is not driven at all, parked in garage, but still have no rust.
VW quality went downhill and they still wondering why others catch them up.
This is why I don't buy VW products any more. I was put off when I saw the state of my then 2 yr old MKV GTi and it's creeping rust problems. Great to hear you're still sourcing cars you always traded fairly and were honest to a fault even if the deal didn't work out.
Great to hear from you Sam, still miss your Anni’ HF52OLO
@@volkswizard I had a lot of great times in that old bus-9.5 hrs from the Algarve to the south of France via the Pyrenees cruising at 100mph+++ and averaging 50mpg! I bet you don't remember selling me a set of Evolo wheels for the Anniversary? It rode better on those with all season tyres than those fragile BBS warranty specials everyone loved.
mk5 was bad. I am 6 years and 50K miles into my cupra and no rust at all - never protected only jetwashed.
Friend of mine had a Mk6 GTI with some nasty corrosion on places you wouldn't expect. Took some time and money to sort that out. My 15 yo French car is absolutely rustfree, times have changed... (although it still has the French quirky issues, but that is another story).
VWs quality went down over the years. I had a MK2 polo classic and it had zero rust on it after nearly 20 year before the engine caught fire (couldn’t find anyone to steam clean it prior and it eventually went up due to an oil leak).
My mk3 golf vr6 is suffering rust in many places. They clearly have known issues they don’t fix.
@@davideyres955 it's all environmental friendly paint today.
So ya telling me my mk7.5gti has them stupid foam inserts in the front wheel arch,tomorrow they will jacked up and they shall be removed,I noticed the other week on mine between the doors on the sill a rust spot was upset loads the quality of VAG is crap but like you say they don’t want you keeping/having your car for a long time these days
Im amazed that vw are still putting these bloody sponges in after what happened in the past
I found out on a golf forum that my Mk5 gti was prone to wing rot and removed them before any damage was caused
Did still remove the wings and attack them with hammerite sill paint😂
@@4ndy65 got new wings for my 5 gti years ago I paints them them black hammerite inside and ran a bead of sealant on the inner lip I’ve also drenched them in bilt hamber uc there holding up great but now have spots of rust on the outside of them,my 7.5 has loads of rust spots on the rear archers too I’ve bought a can of matched paint to spray the arch and then again cover with bilt hamber but the weather is always crap
I recommend to full dry ice procedure and then have "mike sanders" underbody wax protection. Car looks like new from underneath and is protected against the elements.
There was a test by a German magazine where it got 2nd place I think, almost the same result after many years of a corrosive environment but at a much more realistic price
what reference? Not sure what you mean@@petermolnar8667
Interesting to see the corrosion prone areas. Using a paintbrush works well for spreading it out and into crevices (worth putting insulating tape over the metal part of the brush body if it has that when new though to prevent it damaging any paintwork). Also might be worth putting some carrier bags over your discs to prevent contamination of the braking surfaces 👍
Wondered that about the disks, too. Agree with your advice and the general material here. Will take a look inside the arches in the coming weeks.
I had a 56 plate seat Leon and pushed for the corrosion warranty knowing that vw were repairing front arches on mk5 golf’s. Took a lot of battling and actually had an Arnold Clark that wanted to help! Result was two new arches and respray.
I applied lanoguard on my cars in august. Stank like a sheep farm for a few days but the coverage and protection seems pretty good.
Heard good things about Lanoguard.
Its not that good I have found it needs to have at least four coats and even then its will needs to be done again eighteen months later its not long term protection and it needs to be put on when the weather is bone dry and no damp around, its not cost effective, we have had three clients come to us to have it done the result are not great and it has moderate short term rust protection .@@stco2426
VAG products tend to be buckets of rust. I found this video randomly after dealing with rust fixes on my Leon Cupra.
I have a 2015 Leon ST FR, 2020 Leon ST Cupra and a 2023 Formentor in close family.
The 2015 Leon is a lost cause, rust is everywhere. Main locations are the door sill in the rear fender, bumper mounting location on the rear fender and the front fender mounting screws. It is in a really bad shape and I gave up on it, needs a full respray.
On the 2020 Leon Cupra, the front fender has not been an issue as I clean & wax it twice a year when doing a wheel swap. Usually with half a year it is full of crap - leaves etc. Same with the bumper mount, but mostly because I added PPF between the bumper and the quarter panel. Also covered the rear fenders with PPF except for the sill part. That has been a big mistake - the rear part of the sill has rusted really badly, gone 5cm under the rock protection. Also looks like the fenders like to rust on the inside, between the fender liner and fender itself. The rear part of the fender (so the body) also tends to get rock chips in the rear.
So based on that on the 2023 Formentor, days after buying it I took off all of the plastic fender extensions, all fender liners. All of the fender edges got PPF and the line between the rear bumper and the body was PPF’d. Front fender lower bolts were cleaned and covered with a lot of wax, noise deadening was removed and replaced with a more waterproof one and made sure it did not touch any of the lower sill . Inside the fender, as much as possible, I covered the exposed paint with PPF. And after that everything was covered with wax.
So basically, if you want it to remain rust free, every single year it needs some wax and cleaning. I tend to use Liqui Moly cable grease (seilfett) as it is very thick.
Golfs have rusted due to that piece being there for 25 years. Amazing. I've had 4 cars with wings replaced under warranty due to it and they still refit it!
Those rust issues are exactly the same as what I'm seeing on my mk5. I had to replace both front wings and through away those water sponges. The car has a complete Dinitrol under coating treatment including full cavity treatments. Maybe that is why it hasn't rusted more than it has
My 2014 leon hatch that I used to own started rusting on the leading edge of the rear arch within stone chip paint area I used kerust to slow it down
Lanoguard is what you want fantastic stuff and its dosent hide anything as it's a clear wax
It's ok, but Dyanx is the better and more durable product. Lanogaurd is only a basic Lanolin based product much like fluidfilm that has been out for decades.
@ben2155 no worries I thought it was a recent thing .. I like the fact its a clear film . Yes it has to be done eavery year . But I like the fact I can keep my eye on the condition of my cars . I don't like wax oil as its a horrible black tar that hides everything and makes a completely mess of the car
It's not just VW, it's pretty much throughout the VAG range. I use ACF 50, everytime I change the oil, I'll ensure all exposed metal gets treated. I run onto ramps and make a detailed application on the substructure, suspension and even the whole exhaust system. I'm pretty lucky my car is 1 year old so I didn't have any rust to start with.
You had the wrong nozzle on the can - there's one that provides more of a mist-like application. I apply a thin complete and even coat, perhaps a second after the first dried.
I’ve got a 2013 Golf with rust at the top of the wheel arch in both front fenders. Rust in both sills where the foam inserts meet the sill. Rust on the perimeter of the opening for the high mounted brake light. And rust along the opening for the passenger side door handle. I live in upstate New York where lots of road salt is used in n the winter and had to replace the rear springs due to corrosion. The car comes with a 12 year rust warranty and VW will be repairing all of these corrosion problems under warranty. The dealer’s body shop is taking many months to schedule the repair. So far I’ve waited 5 months and they tell me I need to wait a few more weeks. After watching this video I will have some additional questions as to how they intend to repair the rust. What are the corrosion warranties for VW’s in Europe?
Same as yours. Aren't the USA VWs assembled in Mexico?
@@grahamatsea3575my 2013 model was built in Deutschland
interesting viewing, seems to be a issue over the years avoided mk5's due to rust but my mk6 gti looks like its been lived under the sea underneath
Great video! I've been working on my css over the winter, mine too is very low mileage and garaged but still quite a lot of rusty suspension parts, I sanded everything back to bare and painted but I'm gonna order up some Dynax now too, good advice on the arch foam, never even crossed my mind when I had the inner guards removed!
Those foam inserts are still present on MK8 GTIs.
Jesus my 26 year old Fiat hasnt even got rust like that! For a 2020 premium german car that is shocking.
those problem spots are common starting from the golf 4..
Lanoguard hard to beat easy to apply
100% I used it in the summer and still enough left to do this summer and the next
Applied it to the new rear axle, subframe, wisbones etc... on my 1.8t mk4 before it hit the road again in December and find it has loads of dust/debris etc stuck to it now.. will try the bilt hamber on my mk7 R see if its less sticky lol
@@rickydub6950 I struggle to find anything wrong with bilt products 👍🏼
Don’t get the Bithammer on any rubber components, brake hoses or gators, the solvent in the aerosol wax softens and attacks rubber components. And don’t get any at all on brake discs as it impregnates the pass. 😊
To prevent corrosion on these I would recommend removing the front and rear bumper corners where it clips to the wing and clean them out periodically
Dirt and polish etc builds up in the gap and rubs the paint off under the arches
Good tip, they aren’t too bad to remove with wheels off
If VW stop building ICE cars the company will quickly cease to exist.
Their EVs are shite.
I use a brush, it more accurate and less wasteful in the area you can get to
Rusty golf shocker..
Had to have a lot sorted on my mk7 R last year. Still has some to be done when I can afford it. It was really bad on the passenger side rear arch
I’ve just bought a 2018 golf. I’m aware of these issues as my other car was a mrk 5 golf but Vw replaced my wings but not sure if they’ll do it on this car if the wings started to rust . I’ve removed only one of the foam blocks like you said but going to see if it makes much difference to the noise.
I was thinking now that I’ve seen the blocks could we not cut the block down were it fits into the wing then the water wouldn’t collect and if it dosnt stay in place maybee silicone the foam in place
Good video 👍. The quality of VAG group has gone down alot, my old mk4 golf had half the amount of rust my wifes current mk3 Scirocco has. Why more people are importing VAG cars now from Japan, less rust on them due to how they treat their roads and climate is alot better
I might hope that VAG imported to Japan would still have the same build quality as those sold here. JDM cars don't (or didn't) tend to have the same rust-proofing applied as the same vehicles they made for export. That at least is the common perception.
I noticed the fabric rear wheel arch liners on our Golf R 7.5 are leaving 7mm wide X 5cm long gap over to the metal bodywork in one place. That will let water/mud etc in behind the fabric.It is a poor design. I peered into the arches of other VW models, including a GTI, Polo etc, and those had no such gaps. Why the GTI has a better design beats me. I am going to cover/fill the gaps with Sika-seal super 200 and see how it goes. Sika-seal super 200 is a hybrid of acrylic and silicone rubber that cures to a MUCH tougher substance than silicone rubber alone and does not tear or split Water cleanup before cured. Not for external use is stated but I have found no breakdown after 3 years in Australian direct sunlight..
I checked the front arch/sill areas when I bought my 65 plate R on 29k miles a few months ago (thanks to your buyer's guide). No issues. I'm scared to check this thoroughly now 😂 car is kept in an underground car park but gets covered in salt every time I go out in it. Think I'll have to do this soon... You should get affiliate links for the products by the way.
The Audi A3 is constructed in much the same way... and rusts in much the same way. Im a big fan of Bilt Hamber products and have used it (on my A3) in pretty much the same places you have used here.
I did think Audi paint was better than VW but suspect it's all as cheap as can be on MQB platform cars
Funny thing is I have just done a load of this on my 2015 Passat Alltrack, my findings were quite shocking, I pulled off all of the wheel arch liners and in some areas patchy rust was already evident, i treated it with Por15 and painted over it with their paint, it looks like the factory don't underseal or wax anything in these areas or even lacquer it, when i think what i used to with my old Ford Cortina's was waxolyl surely to god we buy these expensive cars and then have to waxoyl them?? The rear beam and suspenion components weren't great either, I have also removed the mud and crap from the front where the liner joins the sill and waxed it, great video but shocking how crap the protection is
*Few people remember that the last "real" Volkswagen was the MK3. After that
all Golf models were based on an Audi platform*.
My 93 GTI has no rust the late mk3s ( after 94 we’re not as good and rust
Early mk3 is built like a mk2
@@kells77 I have a US built 95 VW Golf
and amazingly it has stood up quite well in the rust department.
I have two Mk3 Golfs and both are rusty af. It really depends in which country they were bought. The German ones and Italy i think were the best and had the best paint/protection. The balkan & east europe ones are more prone to rust.
@@FIIIIIIP I have to clarify....my car was actually built at Puebla Mexico....VW had shut down the Westmoreland PA, USA plant in 1992. I'm pretty shocked my car has held up that well, because the build quality wasn't that great, but the car has been very reliable, even the AC system still works like the day I bought it brand new back in 95, it's fantastic! Still blows 38 F ! and that system has NEVER been touched!
@@FIIIIIIP My L reg Mk3 (purchased 1999) had a small spot of bubbling above the drivers side windscreen. Thankfully never got any worse. Had it up to 125,000 miles.
Paying the most for a can of lanolin…
You need to coat tte parts, not just rub a little on them.
Wouldn't it be easier to brush on the spray?
The same inside arch shit was on my mk2 Leon and rusted the wings
Rust? Really? Shame on VW. My Golf 4 GTi TDi had none back in the days. I removed the foam blocks behind the front fenders, cleaned all wheel arches in the summer and used ML / Tectyl on vulnerable locations. The car drove long after I had sold it. I think it was scraped eventually due to high mileage.
The lower triangle is made out of very thick metal.
My mk3 cupra 2018 has the same rust as the mk7 gti. The NS sideskirt at the front corner is completely rusted onto the sideskirt by 2-3cm across. Its a joke
I had a 19 reg Vw Passat which i sold 12 months ago. That had tiny bits of rust in random places. I thought it was quite poor for a VW of that age. Not really any better then a Mondeo or Insignia of that age
Yeah, whoever had my car last must have parked under a tree. When i lifted the bonnet i noticed lots of leaves etc but never realised in each corner it goes down the inner wings. After taking the wheels off the front. Taking off the wheel arch liner uncovered all i can call wet mulch stuck right in there, plus vw/seat sponge soaking wet sound deadener doesn't help. What a mess. Terrible design 😢
so this stuff wont like trap water and make it rust even more or anything?
I'm skeptical as well as there was a fad for undercoating classic cars in the 80's and it turned out to have been a terrible idea unless you were fully confident all issues had been treated beforehand. It just locked the rust in and as soon as the protective layer got punctured or stuff got in from the other side you had a whole heap of problems.
Would the mk8 rear arch spats or spoilers fitted to cars with 19" wheels fit a mk7 and would they offer any protection?
Interesting. I have a 2016 Golf 7 GTD Variant that just hit 300.000km (~187k miles) a few days ago and my Golf has absolutely no rust whatsoever. I checked, but none of those spots show any sign of corrosion or previous corrosion. Just the edge of the lower part of the hatch has some rust that you can only see when you look for it, but that's due to the previous owner having had a low garage ceiling and his hatch hitting the ceiling, rubbing the paint off in the process. I'm just gonna sand the edge down a little, apply some primer and go over it using a paint pen so it looks good again and won't rust again.
Great video Andrew. Does the BH product stand up to pressure washing if u clean your wheels and arches, or do u need to reapply?
That's a good question. You do need to be careful in the arches anyway as it's not hard to damage the relatively soft underseal on some cars so on that basis it should be OK with the usual care
I have this stuff in the arches of my A3 and it stands up to pressure washing easy. It’s still on after 2 years. It will deteriorate eventually but you’ll need a solvent to remove it properly.
Great episode showing this procedure thank you it’s so interesting how all cars suffer young and old. On my mk5 R32 I had all these area on the body work seen to when I purchased the car and one day would love to investigate underneath replace and protect all components where necessary. Brilliant thank you Andrew
Love the clubsport s GTI VDub:)
Prevention is better than cure JB!
@@volkswizardGreat video! How long do you reckon this should last before its time for another spraydown?
Where is your axle stand.
What happened to the galvanisation process, have the bean counters been there?
I suspect bean counters are not unrelated to this Dave, but galvanisation can still be damaged by chips (I've often seen rusty chips on galvanised cars)
Cover your brakes!!!!!!!!!! All the fog goes on your brakes!!!!
I'm looking forward to my next Corolla, I've known VAG have been poor for a long time. Not worth the 'premium' (lmao) they charge because they think they are better, they aint.
From owning a 90s civic for 20 years, rust was on ongoing battle. I used Rust Bullet paint esp useful for high impact areas. The stuff sets like concrete, extremely hard wearing. It was developed for the US military, used on wing tips of US fighter jets, warships and other hardware, so its been used in extremely harsh conditions. One tip, don't get it on your skin, it takes weeks to come off.
Hey Andrew, do you garage your cars?
Thanks to my local council’s stupid rules, no I don’t. Moving again soon so will just buy a house with a double garage rather than assume I can build. Ironically they will approve 2 new houses on my plot but not a double garage 🤔
I'm shocked how bad my daughters mk 7 is KESKS LIKE A FECKING SIEVE!! have to dismantle car yo fix!!!
Great video, Andrew. My 64 Plate Golf R had started to show corrosion at the very bottom of the two front wings. I used Dinitrol 4941 which was great and has lasted and fitted mudflaps👍
Thanks Andrew, appreciate the owner feedback. Good to know you treated it and it didn't come back. Doing it yourself is the only way to be sure it's been treated properly. I always wondered if bodyshops can be bothered to treat rust before painting when they've been asked to repair it..?
Hi Andrew, thank you gor your honesty regarding rust issues on Mk7.5 Golf's.
Drspite our 2014 GTD having an awful reliability record, at leasr it's not going rusty. I had been thinking about replacing it with a Mk7.5 GTi or R, however, have there only been a few isolated cases of rust on these later cars, or is the build quality that poor that they'll start rust quicker than Mk3 Golf's?
Mosr of us knock Ford and other mid market brands for their inferior build quality, but my Mother in Law's Mk2 Focus has been far more reliable (and rust resistant) than the Mk5 and Mk7 Golf's we've owned.
My 2000 reg mk4 has less rust than them first examples on the 2020. Mad
Mmm. I genuinely appreciate your logic in doing this however…..I feel it’s completely unnecessary for 99.9% of car owners out there. As I say, it’s a personal choice but a blast with a pressure washer under the car every couple of weeks in the winter, and most cars will be fine.
TBH that was the reaction I expected but the response has shown there does appear to be a genuine issue here
This is why I don’t buy vag cars. So sad to see. They were good once
Crap German cars you pay for an over priced car you have to spend even more money on 😂
Andrew what did the knocking sound turn out to be?
Was it the lower crash bar behind the front bumper?
I wish it was that bar Tom, I got the bumper off in the summer and it was solid and intact, car was completely virginal in every area apart from one...it had front discs and pads and it looks like pads spring clips aren't in correctly and allow movement. I bought it in Feb and it was quiet, got worse as weather warmed up. Late summer I could move callipers by hand and they would clonk. Today at zero degrees it's perfectly silent and callipers don't clonk so must be something to do with expansion. I would get the pads off and adjust the clips but pointless now as it's still quiet so one for spring and summer, pretty confident it's those because callipers make a noise by hand that's similar and they've been touched before. Also it's left and right side making the (clanking) noise when driving and both callipers make the clanking noise by hand so fingers crossed :)
Considering the amount of plastic that will fail in a VW's enginebay. Over engineered when it's a massive job to replace a water 💧 pump & you need a diagnostic computer 🙃. Maybe it's a race to the bottom of the barrel amoungst manufacturers?
Great vid. Cleaned out behind the front arch liners on my Mk7R last winter, should have binned the foams, been squeezing the water from them through the door wing gap 😔 need to get them all off soon and get blasting with the Dynax. Used lanoguard on new running gear on my mk4 1.8t last month but find lots of debris sticking to it. Is the dynax as sticky?
It doesn’t appear sticky no but temperature will have a part
Great video, Id also recommend EM121 Epoxy rust proofing. A friend uses it on his JDM STI scoobs and it seems to hold up to UK weather well, plus is a bit thicker. You can request custom colours to for anyone wishing to keep the "OEM" look (although its not OEM).
Hi Andrew, very helpful video, thank you. Did you have to do any work in advance of applying the wax, such as removing surface corrosion with a wire brush? Or can the Dynax can be applied without this being necessary?
Hi Andrew. Foam inserts hopefully binned for the Mk8? If not, out they come! It's like a bodge job not something you'd expect from a major manufacturer.
Looking to do the same thing soon on my vw up rear arches as the fuel cap area is prone to rusting. Got the more durable bh dynax UB to protect it
Thank you Andrew. Will have a look tomorrow during its wash.
Fingers crossed, yours is very close to the one in vid, late model, Brescia, Issac blue but hopefully yours has been in a drier part of the UK
@@volkswizard fingers crossed. But depending on what I see, I think I will get that bilt hamber stuff and protect those areas. Since your videos a few years ago protecting the R variant you had with the vw protectant has got me thinking….
My second CSS had 2k miles and was used in one winter and the rust on th suspension components was unreal. To the point where I did a complete rear underside refurb on it. Have a look on detailingworld. VW components are all cheap steel with a light coating of black satin paint. Dreadful. In the end I sold my car. The first one I had was protected underneath with dynorol. It worked well but collected every bit of crap. When these cars were new or even a new Mk8 GtI / R I would 100% be coating the underside. BH products are brilliant.
Great feedback thanks - the problem with undersides is once you've looked it's often too late
I would have it done by a professional instead of spraying some around myself. It costs a bit but then you can be sure that it is good and you have a warranty. Moreover, Dinitrol is still the best anti-rust agent. But if you really don't want rust, don't buy a Volkswagen!
Dinitrol is shit. I’ve had it crack, both underbody and cavity. Would end up causing more trouble than it solves. They weren’t interested when I contacted them.
@@royfontaine5526 No, of course they weren’t interested. Anyone who uses Dinitrol in any way knows that it remains supple and self-healing for years and has very good penetrating properties. If your stuff is cracking, it certainly wasn't Dinitrol you used.
@@jan4004 it was genuine Dinitrol, purchased from a reputable (perhaps the best known) retailer. And it was indeed shite. Would never use it again.
@@royfontaine5526 It's about the product. The best retailer sells exactly the same product as the worst retailer, that doesn't mean anything. Furthermore, it's your car and your rust and that's fine as far as I'm concerned, you don't have to convince me.
@@jan4004 whatever. In my experience, Dinitrol is shit and I’d not recommend it to others.
Dynax S50 is much more robust product for what your doing with it!
Uc won’t last!
Now I am confused bilthamber.com/faq/what-is-the-differences-between-dynax-ub-uc-and-s-50/
Need to do this/similar to my MK4 Gti which wont be too complicated but now that I've also got a Alfa 159, thats a whole heap of complexity
I’ve got a Caravelle that needs tidying up, I’d be interested to see the file that you shared to see how they done the work
Great ideas, I’m in eastern Canada, corrosion is a big issue here, thanks
My pleasure🫡
Bag your discs and pads!!
I think someone said that about the GT4. TBH it's not that hard to avoid them but appreciate you can be a little bit less cautious if covered which takes very little time.
I’m just nervous every time I see something slippery sprayed near friction material!
Hi bud I moved to Canada about ten years ago and talk about rust.winter here just kills your car but anyway I’m looking at 2019 to 2020 s3 do you know of any rust areas I should look for? Really enjoy the channel keep up the good work.
Buy a Renault. They don't rust.
I knew a few people back in the day that would use black Hammerite paint inside their arches to protect them...and also paint their break pipes with it to protect them from water-corrosion....
These videos are very important and informative - Thank you Andrew :) :) :)
My pleasure, thanks for watching and commenting 🫡
Bilt hamber make some cracking products. I use bilt hamber atom Mac .
Good video
Is it that bad on the newer Golfs or on all modern VWs?
Hi Andrew, another great video. I wish I had watched this and used spray on wax instead of using a thick layer of tarmac to cover all my suspension components and undertray . Still at least the little white stones they used to compliment the tarmac, look lovely 😊
Let the thing rust put the kettle on and enjoy sitting in the house on a winters day instead of trying to save a badly made car
Remind me not to buy a car from you
Keep on covering rust up lol
There are people out there who want to drive a car for more than 2 years.
This is not even proper rust. Thing will last a long time if he protects it. I'm glad people make some effort to keep cars last so they don't have to consume more.
Golf is renowned for rusting
And the " worst " golf - mk4 , most still have less corrosion than mk7s
VAG quality went down hill after MK4
Thank you Andrew for another excellent video as a 2020 golf R owner your videos are always interesting I’ve always cavity waxed my cars when I bought this golf two years ago I did it. I’m going to revisit it now after watching this video keep up the good work
I’m a bit surprised at the front wheel arches, having just changed the alternator on my mk3 Octavia, based on the golf 7, and having therefore to spend more time removing plastic wheel arches and under trays than doing the alternator, there is body coloured paint some of which is stone chip where there seems to be just primer on the golf. Is this a special primer Skoda don’t get ?
No it’s just VW’s beanccountants are ‘better’ than Skodas’
@@volkswizard 🙄
Did VW stop applying cosmoline to their cars to prevent rust?
It's like VAG didn't take any notice of all those A3's and A4's with rusted out front wings.
Can you do a mk8 and Corrado guide or is it the same as the Golf mk7.5? Even if it is just an overview with someone elses car?
Gosh they don't build them like the mk2 or mk4 or even the mk3 which was a rust bucket of its day. Surprised to see so little stone chip paint in the arches.
Your efforts will secure the future of the car for sure.
Thanks Matt, glad you approve. Yes those arches are very sparsely treated, you only have to look at the GT4 to remember what they used to be like. I always used to be careful to avoid pressure washing stone chip protector in wheel arches, on Mk7 there is just seam sealer on the joints and that's pretty much it. MQB platform was created to save VWG money and this is one of the many ways.
@volkswizard yes your GT4 arches are what I was expecting to see on the Clubsport S (and general mk7s). Was the mk5 like this too?
Very informative Andrew 👍
I've just imported a Mk6 Golf Gti . It's an Adidas model and it's done 32,000 miles.
When I say it's like brand new underneath it really is. It could pass for a 1000 mile car.
It surely must be something to do with the amount of salt which is dumped on to UK roads as to why UK cars suffer with rust .
You look as cold as I feel
I feel colder :)
Next time you take a blast down to Felixstowe in one of your beasts shout me out 🙏💕