Excellent thanks Dave. It's interesting to see how different people use 3D printers: ** A sort of base level searches websites for "Cutesy" things to print. ** Manufacturer uses it to make the same item repeatedly, like a component in a larger product. ** Hard-core, soaks up everything 3d printer related, probably builds or modifies printers, may even have a website or RUclips channel. ** Maker uses it in conjunction with other tools in a workshop environment. I see you (and me) in this category. The items you showed might trigger ideas for other makers, but they were mainly specific to you. I have an eclectic selection of hooks, latches, brackets, more brackets, ducts, funnels, caps... none of them of any use to anybody else. Of course we all have a "Magpie" in the closet! I have to admit to some Christmas tree ornaments, 3D printed fabric, a wire-framed shelf ornament, and a few other unmentionables. I am just about to press "Print" on an improved hose connector / inlet for my shop-vac. I'm not obsessive about my old Ender 3, but I am glad I have it.
@@PiefacePete46 Thanks mate, it is amazing the things you make, having finished the video I keep seeing other things I have made that I totally forgot to include. As you say I am not too much into ornaments and mostly like to make practical things, had to have a magpie though 😁. This printer is so much more reliable than my old one and amazingly even the Mrs calls it a good investment.
The second I saw all those desiccant holder models with the hygrometer slot, I thought it was silly to place it there. Definitely a decision born out of aesthetic preference rather than any kind of functional engineering. Good video.
Yes I thought the same but followed the herd to see if it worked. Better to print another one of the normal ones and stick that in the middle. In my climate it's amazing how long it takes to bring the AMS back down to acceptable levels after opening the top. It takes 6 or 7 hours.
Really appreciate the detailed, non sales pitch of an experience. You seem to have gotten good use of it, and with impressive results. Have just grabbed a p1s with hardened steel gear assembly and hot end for printing carbon fibre. Also grabbed some air purifiers as have to locate in the house. I see yours is quite contained, if possible can you share any experience on what it's been like working around it, how you handle the air quality or if space has been sufficient. Thanks again, and happy new year.
Thanks for the kind comments. The printer is in my "tool room" this is a separate building to the house and it has glass louvre windows so even when you don't want it to be air flow is high. I have noticed some fumes printing ASA and ABS but PLA nothing at all. Living in the sub tropics humidity is my main problem. Happy New year to you too👍
Just picked up one today and doing the obligatory poop shute print. I also had a printer from ~2019/2020. Reliability made me quit the hobby - quite frustrating as I too am a maker. Thanks for sharing!
I have the Bambu X1c, and what I reccommend is to reduce the speed for very tall objects. the faster you go then the higher risk is to fail the print, due to the speed vibration. If I know I have to spend lot of hours for a print I always reduce the speed, and I leave printing overnight. for tall objects I mean usuallt higher than 100mm on the Z axis
I always use a short spray with 3DLAC on almost any build plate. I then can print about 10 to 15 times on that plate, clean it up with some lukewarm water, and apply a short spray again. I bought one spray can about two years ago, and I still have more than enough left, so that can will last for a very long time. I am sure there are other brands that work fine too (and even ordinary hairspray), but I have not tried those out (yet). Some people swear by using a glue stick, but I personally think it's a bit messy and does not work that well. But that's just personal experience.
@@plasmaDave Its exactly what i use and no longer have any bed adhesion issues. make sure your clean your print bed too and allow the part to cool before removing it. 3DLac btw is essentially hair spray. In fact if you look at the rear of the spray you'll see written "LAISEVEN COSMETICS, S.L." so I suspect its just hairspray and only slightly modified for our 3d printers.
@@AmirKhan-qx2lr Interesting, I must look into it a bit more. So far nothing has let go of the smooth plate. It also makes it very easy to see where you touched the plate. It shows up finger grease really well.
I have had my P1P for a long while now, I have never had to use anything on the PEI build plate, before printing I use a microfiber cloth and isopropyl alcohol to clean the plate, Bambu recommend glue stick for TPU, PC-CF and PA, I have printed TPU without using a glue stick and had no issues, I have not tried the other two. Your ABS and ASA adhesion problems could be due to the lack of a heated chamber on the P1S leading to excessive warping, I do not print these on the P1P. Where I have had adhesion problems it is usually due to forgetting to clean the plate before printing, or having the wrong process settings for the filament, the manufacturer of the filaments that I use provide settings files that have been tested to work on Bambu printers, you simply add these to Bambu Studio, if you are using filament other than Bambu Labs it is worth checking if the manufacturer has filament and process files that you can use. Lastly the filament you showed I will assume was PLA, when it gets old and more importantly absorbs moisture it becomes brittle and can/will print poorly, I have also noticed that PETG becomes stringy when not dry, after purchasing a filament dryer and drying my old filaments the printing results were vastly improved. I hope this helps with your issues, and of course your mileage may vary, but this is what I have found works for me.
Thanks for the detailed reply I upped the bed temp and printing temp from the Bambu standards for ASA and ABS and the helped but the change to a smooth plate was the major improvement no warpage now. The grey PLA was new out of the package back then but it was probably a bit wet. The broken PLA was 7 years old at least and I should have binned it. Drying that did no good at all 👍😊
@ just a spritz will do, and when you get bad filament, it gives a layer that will protect build plate and allow separation instead of filament gluing its self to plate. Good luck!
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for sharing your experiences!
No worries :)
Excellent thanks Dave. It's interesting to see how different people use 3D printers:
** A sort of base level searches websites for "Cutesy" things to print.
** Manufacturer uses it to make the same item repeatedly, like a component in a larger product.
** Hard-core, soaks up everything 3d printer related, probably builds or modifies printers, may even have a website or RUclips channel.
** Maker uses it in conjunction with other tools in a workshop environment. I see you (and me) in this category.
The items you showed might trigger ideas for other makers, but they were mainly specific to you. I have an eclectic selection of hooks, latches, brackets, more brackets, ducts, funnels, caps... none of them of any use to anybody else. Of course we all have a "Magpie" in the closet! I have to admit to some Christmas tree ornaments, 3D printed fabric, a wire-framed shelf ornament, and a few other unmentionables.
I am just about to press "Print" on an improved hose connector / inlet for my shop-vac.
I'm not obsessive about my old Ender 3, but I am glad I have it.
@@PiefacePete46 Thanks mate, it is amazing the things you make, having finished the video I keep seeing other things I have made that I totally forgot to include. As you say I am not too much into ornaments and mostly like to make practical things, had to have a magpie though 😁. This printer is so much more reliable than my old one and amazingly even the Mrs calls it a good investment.
Merci beaucoup pour votre vidéo. C’était très intéressant de voir le bilan et l’usage que vous faites de cette P1S 👍.
I am pleased that you found it interesting 😊
The second I saw all those desiccant holder models with the hygrometer slot, I thought it was silly to place it there. Definitely a decision born out of aesthetic preference rather than any kind of functional engineering. Good video.
Yes I thought the same but followed the herd to see if it worked. Better to print another one of the normal ones and stick that in the middle. In my climate it's amazing how long it takes to bring the AMS back down to acceptable levels after opening the top. It takes 6 or 7 hours.
Really appreciate the detailed, non sales pitch of an experience. You seem to have gotten good use of it, and with impressive results.
Have just grabbed a p1s with hardened steel gear assembly and hot end for printing carbon fibre. Also grabbed some air purifiers as have to locate in the house. I see yours is quite contained, if possible can you share any experience on what it's been like working around it, how you handle the air quality or if space has been sufficient. Thanks again, and happy new year.
Thanks for the kind comments. The printer is in my "tool room" this is a separate building to the house and it has glass louvre windows so even when you don't want it to be air flow is high. I have noticed some fumes printing ASA and ABS but PLA nothing at all. Living in the sub tropics humidity is my main problem. Happy New year to you too👍
@@plasmaDave Thank you very much for taking the time, here's to a happy and productive '25.
I have the same printer but have not yet unboxed it... waiting for a filament package to arrive. I got it without the AMS.
I was lucky mine all came on the same day. You normally get some in the box with the printer
Just picked up one today and doing the obligatory poop shute print. I also had a printer from ~2019/2020. Reliability made me quit the hobby - quite frustrating as I too am a maker. Thanks for sharing!
@@KeirMurphy I still used my Anet but it was a pain. Hope it all goes well for you.
I have the Bambu X1c, and what I reccommend is to reduce the speed for very tall objects. the faster you go then the higher risk is to fail the print, due to the speed vibration.
If I know I have to spend lot of hours for a print I always reduce the speed, and I leave printing overnight.
for tall objects I mean usuallt higher than 100mm on the Z axis
@@CallistoPili I'll try that 👍
I always use a short spray with 3DLAC on almost any build plate. I then can print about 10 to 15 times on that plate, clean it up with some lukewarm water, and apply a short spray again. I bought one spray can about two years ago, and I still have more than enough left, so that can will last for a very long time. I am sure there are other brands that work fine too (and even ordinary hairspray), but I have not tried those out (yet). Some people swear by using a glue stick, but I personally think it's a bit messy and does not work that well. But that's just personal experience.
I'll have a look for that, sounds expensive, but these things are relative I guess 😁
I use 3dLac too with original PEI plate. I print PLA at 55C bed and ABS at 90C bed. I have a big 3dLac spray can and it lasts forever.
@@plasmaDave Its exactly what i use and no longer have any bed adhesion issues. make sure your clean your print bed too and allow the part to cool before removing it. 3DLac btw is essentially hair spray. In fact if you look at the rear of the spray you'll see written "LAISEVEN COSMETICS, S.L." so I suspect its just hairspray and only slightly modified for our 3d printers.
@@AmirKhan-qx2lr Interesting, I must look into it a bit more. So far nothing has let go of the smooth plate. It also makes it very easy to see where you touched the plate. It shows up finger grease really well.
I have had my P1P for a long while now, I have never had to use anything on the PEI build plate, before printing I use a microfiber cloth and isopropyl alcohol to clean the plate, Bambu recommend glue stick for TPU, PC-CF and PA, I have printed TPU without using a glue stick and had no issues, I have not tried the other two.
Your ABS and ASA adhesion problems could be due to the lack of a heated chamber on the P1S leading to excessive warping, I do not print these on the P1P.
Where I have had adhesion problems it is usually due to forgetting to clean the plate before printing, or having the wrong process settings for the filament, the manufacturer of the filaments that I use provide settings files that have been tested to work on Bambu printers, you simply add these to Bambu Studio, if you are using filament other than Bambu Labs it is worth checking if the manufacturer has filament and process files that you can use.
Lastly the filament you showed I will assume was PLA, when it gets old and more importantly absorbs moisture it becomes brittle and can/will print poorly, I have also noticed that PETG becomes stringy when not dry, after purchasing a filament dryer and drying my old filaments the printing results were vastly improved.
I hope this helps with your issues, and of course your mileage may vary, but this is what I have found works for me.
Thanks for the detailed reply I upped the bed temp and printing temp from the Bambu standards for ASA and ABS and the helped but the change to a smooth plate was the major improvement no warpage now. The grey PLA was new out of the package back then but it was probably a bit wet. The broken PLA was 7 years old at least and I should have binned it. Drying that did no good at all 👍😊
the new build plates will work much better, but if you want honest to god best adhesion, go with Aqua Net hair spray. I use it every print.
Interesting idea, I'll have to try that out, but I've found the new bed plate works great for me so far anyway.
@ just a spritz will do, and when you get bad filament, it gives a layer that will protect build plate and allow separation instead of filament gluing its self to plate. Good luck!
Nice review, been planning to buy a printer from bamboo labs.
Glad you found it helpful, I think you’d be happy with it.