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I have the Bambu X1c, and what I reccommend is to reduce the speed for very tall objects. the faster you go then the higher risk is to fail the print, due to the speed vibration. If Iknow I have to spend lot of hourse for a print I always reduce the speed, and I leave printing overnight. for tall objects I mean usuallt higher than 100mm on the Z axis

I have had my P1P for a long while now, I have never had to use anything on the PEI build plate, before printing I use a microfiber cloth and isopropyl alcohol to clean the plate, Bambu recommend glue stick for TPU, PC-CF and PA, I have printed TPU without using a glue stick and had no issues, I have not tried the other two. Your ABS and ASA adhesion problems could be due to the lack of a heated chamber on the P1S leading to excessive warping, I do not print these on the P1P. Where I have had adhesion problems it is usually due to forgetting to clean the plate before printing, or having the wrong process settings for the filament, the manufacturer of the filaments that I use provide settings files that have been tested to work on Bambu printers, you simply add these to Bambu Studio, if you are using filament other than Bambu Labs it is worth checking if the manufacturer has filament and process files that you can use. Lastly the filament you showed I will assume was PLA, when it gets old and more importantly absorbs moisture it becomes brittle and can/will print poorly, I have also noticed that PETG becomes stringy when not dry, after purchasing a filament dryer and drying my old filaments the printing results were vastly improved. I hope this helps with your issues, and of course your mileage may vary, but this is what I have found works for me.

I always use a short spray with 3DLAC on almost any build plate. I then can print about 10 to 15 times on that plate, clean it up with some lukewarm water, and apply a short spray again. I bought one spray can about two years ago, and I still have more than enough left, so that can will last for a very long time. I am sure there are other brands that work fine too (and even ordinary hairspray), but I have not tried those out (yet). Some people swear by using a glue stick, but I personally think it's a bit messy and does not work that well. But that's just personal experience.

the new build plates will work much better, but if you want honest to god best adhesion, go with Aqua Net hair spray. I use it every print.

Merci beaucoup pour votre vidéo. C’était très intéressant de voir le bilan et l’usage que vous faites de cette P1S 👍.

Excellent thanks Dave. It's interesting to see how different people use 3D printers: ** A sort of base level searches websites for "Cutesy" things to print. ** Manufacturer uses it to make the same item repeatedly, like a component in a larger product. ** Hard-core, soaks up everything 3d printer related, probably builds or modifies printers, may even have a website or RUclips channel. ** Maker uses it in conjunction with other tools in a workshop environment. I see you (and me) in this category. The items you showed might trigger ideas for other makers, but they were mainly specific to you. I have an eclectic selection of hooks, latches, brackets, more brackets, ducts, funnels, caps... none of them of any use to anybody else. Of course we all have a "Magpie" in the closet! I have to admit to some Christmas tree ornaments, 3D printed fabric, a wire-framed shelf ornament, and a few other unmentionables. I am just about to press "Print" on an improved hose connector / inlet for my shop-vac. I'm not obsessive about my old Ender 3, but I am glad I have it.

Nice review, been planning to buy a printer from bamboo labs.

What were the symptoms to make you decide to change it out

is this good for detecting short on laptop motherboarad?..maybe for small caps/resistor or ic

Fantastically helpful. Just replaced mine, and also had to remove the fuel pump bracket as you suggested.

Great vdo. I am planning on fixing right side on my Jag F pace 3.0 diesel tomorrow 🤞🏼 Thanks for sharing

Actually my bad. I see you cut this out. Where is your email? Dont see it. Thx

Getting a 3d for Christmas. How could i get the files to make this? Thanks.

Thanks for YOUR time. And I hope to see more of your videos. ❤️

I’m going to have a go a replacing mine with the aluminium ones

Brilliant help, doing mine this week, I'm right in thinking the only parts I really need are the Inlet and Injector seals?

How much Co2 does 150w co2 laser tube cutting can consume

Hey is this good for pipe leak detection behind walls and tiles?

Very helpful video, thank you.

It turn out that this was a crack in the lower side of the so called throttle body.

Looks pretty handy

Wow. Love the mount. Wonder if one could be made that has a hinge that rotates up and over so coild see both at same time if wanted to

Brilliant video! 100% confirms I have none of the skills needed to fix my car!

Hi Dave how are your blades attached to the drive. Is it a bolt or clip system

matte pla is weaker than regular fyi 😊

don’t forget to calibrate the filament 😊

Interesting video Dave. Bundy boy myself - I've just ordered the Bambu XC1 combo & will need to learn how to use it plus 360, but that will come in time though.

FYI, If you click the top and bottom surfaces when you shelled, you would have not had to delete that bottom feature.

Certainly goes way faster than mine.

Nice one. I've been massively impressed with my P1S. I would recommend printing a riser for the top glass. The main reason is the tube rubs on the top glass and rubs away the tube / pits the glass. It will also allow you to have the front door closed for PLA as they have vents on them that you can open and close. and third you can put some extra lights in so you can see it printing better. And with the door closed and vents open its much quieter and it stays at around 35-37 depending on weather (am in the uk and no ac). Another good print is a little ramp for the front bottom just bellow the glass to allow easier clean-up. And finally some removal tools for some of the connectors on the back. Sometimes when you need to work on it removing these parts is a pain as the clips are facing the back wall of the printer so a tool is very useful. Look forward to more videos. Cheers.

Well that’s a jump in functionality and ease of use, hope you enjoy the P1S

One more question. I have bsl mainboard also but it does not detect it

is that black acrylic then how does it engrave and turn out white

hi, good video, i want to buy one on new year eve

Your videos are excellent. Thanks

Great video, thank you. I've got the exact same fault code. Wasn't sure how to diagnose the fault and this video has helped me by showing the ride height in the GapIID. Will follow this video to replace my air spring. Do I need to vent the air or will it do that when I take the line off?

Lance sent me here, nice instructive video, thanks for sharing, Paul.

How much did the co2 machine ended up costing you pretty curious

Hi, thank you so much for reviewing this UTI120S. Do you think its enough for starting electrician tool for thermal camera? UTI260 costs twice the price, cant afford fluke/flir.

Dave!!! Great Video. I am in the process of doing this to my 2016 L405 full sized. I only have 1 turbo, and there are a few funky things different on the L405. Do you mind if I reference your video in mine? I would be very appreciative - JDW

Ah you need a Landcruiser I reckon. 😂 There is a lot of plastic in there.

Hey PlasmaDave 👋👋, awesome project! I'm planning to build a DIY metal cutting machine myself that can cut up to 40mm thick metal sheets, but I don't have much technical knowledge. Could you be more specific about what exactly is cutting the metal? Is it a fiber laser, plasma cutter, or something else? Also, could you suggest some major components I'll need for this kind of build? Your guidance would be super helpful. Thanks!

I have the z5-1 also. I was looking at the x-toolf1 and it's basically the same as minus the print size and the diode laser. X-Tool says the F1 can color engrave. Any suggestions how to do this with the z5-1?

Thank you for the Great Footage 🫡

Just completed this job today on my partner's 2012 Discovery 4 SDV6 (3.0), after deliberating whether to give the job to a local Land Rover specialist, having read and listened to the horror stories about removing the dastardly oil cooler. Being the eternal problem solver I decided not to let someone else have all the fun and so I started work first thing this morning (well 09.00 anyway!) and after a couple of hours of removing all the usual bits, I finally worked my way down to the oil cooler, at which point I sat down with a nice cuppa and took another good old gander at the official Land Rover digital video which explains the "Correct" removal procedure for the offending item. Refreshed by the brew and inspired by the video, I got back in the garage and started pushing and pulling and twisting as per the video (the oil cooler that is...). Surprisingly and possibly luckily, it would seem that if you study the video closely and jiggle the oil cooler constantly, as you're manoeuvring it exactly as per the video, it actually comes out!!! It's an incredibly tight fit, so much so that at no point during the extraction was it not touching the block or the manifolds, or a combination of the two. I'm not saying it was easy by any means but it is do-able.....just! I was quite prepared to cut the oil separator mounting bracket if needed, which ultimately gave me the confidence to do the job in the first place, so many thanks to Mr. PlasmaDrive for a truly great video.

i have mine cracked in exactly the same place... have you managed to glue it somehow or just replaced it with a new part?

Thanks a lot for your brief video. Helps to much to solve the problem. Restricted performance massage disappear after cleaning mass air pressure sensor in my case. 🙏