Replace Wheel Seal Troy-Bilt HORSE tiller pony bronco econo horse
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- Опубликовано: 25 авг 2024
- Replacing a leaking wheel seal on a 70's Troy Bilt Horse Rototiller
PAIR of New WHEEL seals amzn.to/2rLebeP
PAIR of New TINE shaft seals amzn.to/2qa3IZP
Replace tine seal video: • Tine seal replacement ...
FYI, reverse the wheel to re-install the seal, it’s longer on one side vs. the other just for this purpose.
Good idea! We have several sections of pipe in my shop which are used for this purpose...some are even labeled for which make/model/bearing used for.
Thanks, I botched the oil seals on a Troy Pony & seeing Troy no longer makes the oil seal guide & driver ( more like extinct to fine). Thank you again. there was one comment that made sense to get the oil seal centered & started by reversing the wheel to reinstall oil seal.
I had a real hard time getting the wheel off, oxy acetylene wouldn't even get it off. So I left the roll pin out, soaked the axle in kroil and went to till some real hard abandoned field. after about 10 minutes of tilling the shaft started to slip, a little more kroil and the wheel came off very easily. I hope this helps anyone who has a stuck wheel and no torch.
Just getting ready to start this myself, exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!
Nice dude, thanks. Incidentally, I watched this years ago and was afraid it would be difficult to find again when I needed it, but it was right near the top waiting for me. Really appreciate this...and your channel has exploded! Congrats on the fine work.
Great video, strait to the point no useless info. Enjoy these type videos. I have a Bronco, and presume seal removal & replacement is same as the Horse model. Thanks again.
Yes, the bronco is the same.
Wow..i sure am glad you posted this..I'm having to do the same thing to my troy bilt Tuffy .. it's smaller than yours..has leaking seals too..it was gave to me because it didn't run..that was the easy part..or maybe the seals are the easy part..had to order the seals today should be here in a coupleof days..is 90 wt. Oil ok to put in the gear box..that's what's it's getting..lol..thanks again today is 7 / 24 / 2020..🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Great video, thanks for posting it; I couldn’t have done this on my horse tiller without your help. God bless you!
I'm getting ready to replace these seals in my 1 year old horse. Really stinks that I have leaks on a lightly used 1 year old troy bilt.
At least I have you here to help me! Thanks man!
Yeah, that's discouraging. Weeds and or rope getting wrapped around the axle will eat the seals up fast.
Mine was 3 months old went to leaking then about 7 months old went to leaking then bout 12 or 14 months went to leaking the just watching it and add a little when need to not much it’s 2013 model now it won’t go in reverse the handle won’t even go in reverse I’m just tilling with it when have time will try to check it out if I can
Just what I needed to see, got a pair of new seals coming. Thanks!
That's great. Hopefully it's a quick job.
I just got one of these horse tiller's with a 7hp Kohler and this is exactly what I gotta do plus I'm going to change the tine seals. For the wheels I just put a 1 ⅜ long round locking pin in them so no tool is needed to take them off.
Are you talking about the wheel? If so yes soaking with penetrating fluid helps. There is a cap in the center of the rim on the out side. If you remove it you should be able to tip the tiller at an angle and pour the fluid in and let it soak. The only other thing that helps is HIGH HEAT for a Oxy Acetylene torch (propane wont get hot fast enough to work). Don't use excessive hammering as you will strip the gears on the inside.
That was a future video. I will probably do it sooner than later.
Got a older Troy bill tiller. The wheels have 2 bolts on the rim, one on each side of the spindle/axel. What are they do they come off with the wheel? Thanks.
You're welcome. I hope it helped.
I use the rim to press the seal in to place. Works good.
You need to adjust the little shift lever block on the back of the tiller. It is what the shifter roller rolls on.
Yah. Thanks for watching it.
Nice job bro, thanks for showing us how it's done.
Thank You for the great video and information. It was kind of You to share with us. I don't have that problem yet. I know that it will come to me. Now I know how. Again Thank You.
Thank you! JUST what I was looking for.
Thanks for watching :)
65 ford thank you great video very much help to me God bless you
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
I don't think there is a service manual. There are a lot of parts breakdown pictures though.
Helpful video, enjoyed the backup music track. My right wheel would not budge, had to suspend the horse by the right wheel on bars across two sawhorses and use a piece of bar stock and a three pound hammer to drive the wheel shaft out of the wheel hub. Years ago the roll pin hadn't been driven all the way through, just driven into one hole, and it managed over the years to swage out the wheel hub, she just wouldn't let go. A useful tip though, once the wheel hub is cleaned up, you can use it to evenly press the new seal back into the journal.
Thanks for your help
3:25 - best size screwdriver ever made !!
It's handy.
That was a little git to get out, but you had your evil way with it lol :-)
Those pointed nose mole grips/vice grips looked just the ticket, youve got to love good tools, makes impossible jobs possible :-)
Smashing vid :-)
You have a video on frozen stuck tines having trouble getting mine off
Making them cherry red hot is the only way to remove them. If your tine seals are just weeping not creating a puddle, it's not worth the hours of aggravation as the shaft maybe scored and even new seals won't do anything.
but can ya use a pry bar as a screw driver,,
Thank you so much. Very helpful.
Yes... the 20535 is available from custompartsinc and a few other places. A google search(20535 troy bilt) for the gear will pull up the places.
The wheel seals are available every where. They just changed the part number to 921-04031 .
I now have video proof to show my old lady that it IS OK to use black duct tape on your shoes to extend their life. LMAO
Thats a great question....
I needed to see how to attach cotter pin....
Got tiller back from service and the wheels don’t turn so I don’t know if they didn’t put the wheels back together right
I wouldn't mind seeing how to adjust the governor on this model. Thanks if you do a video.
You shouldn't ever need to adjust a governor. If it is surging the carb is dirty. If it isn't fast enough the throttle cable just needs to pull more.
Every mechanic in the world watching this video has their jaw on the table watching this horror show. "I just broke the tip off of my screwdriver!" "Screwdrivers are NOT prybars!"...grabs another screwdriver. SMH! They make a tool for pulling seals, it is relatively inexpensive and will same you tons of time and many screwdrivers. :-) P.S. Great video on a job I have to do cause mine is pouring fluid out of the seals. Just busting your chops. Keep up the good work!
So if the wheel seals are bad then it also causes the wheels to be loose? I just got a old snapper 5hp tiller and I noticed that the wheels seem loose. Wasnt sure if theres a bearing bad or what
Handy video: thanks. Ours are similar but more how to run. Someone forwarded your link as we demo a similar model. Thanks man: seals are a pain.
Thanks for watching.
I have found that replacing the seals on these old tillers is an exercise in futility. generally when the seals go bad it is because the brass bushing that supports the axle is worn out. one should always wiggle the shaft to see if there is excessive slop between the bushing and the shaft, if there is, it is a waste of time and money to replace only the seal because it will still leak.
+Ray Pollard Very true but they do get cut pretty easily as well by dirt or weeds getting wrapped around the axle.
sixtyfiveford you are correct, point taken. the seals should have been made recessed to prevent this
Ray Pollard what does one do if the bushings are worn out? Can they be replaced? I just got one of these older Troy-bilt "pony" tillers that I'm planning on replacing the seals and would do the bushings at the same time if I can get them.
You'll need to pull apart the transmission to replace the bushings. It's generally easier to just keep adding occasional gear oil.
sixtyfiveford these are pretty bad. My tiller is an older "pony" it's not like the one in your video. It doesn't have the removable cover on the top, the access is through the front. I've found the axle can be driven out the side once the key ways are lined up and the key takes the bushing on one side with it.
thanx
It can be very frustrating.
You should show us your garage/work area?...!
I got them off thanks
I have a 1980 6hp horse tiller I got to do the same thing on both sides 😎
These things never stop. Even a decent oil leak won't stop them.
as usual you are always very good
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
I have an old tiller and the pull cord looks fine it just will not recoil is there a spring?
Yes, there is a clock spring.
I'm going to put grade 8 bolts on the wheels with lock nuts
Good job something I need to do !
Yeah, they're buggers at always leaking.
Thanks
Thanks. I'm glad you liked it.
Great job
Great video.
Thanks.
This was excellent thank you!
Thanks, I'm glad it was helpful.
You do a nice job with these. Do you know what the best way to remove the tines on a Pony model? I tried a 7 ton gear puller to no avail.
If they are stuck/rusted on the only way you'll get them off is with heat from a propane, mapp gas or oxyacetylene torch.
Getting those wheels off can really be a pain gear oil is cheap. Or try adding reseal to the gear box , saw a guy destroy his wheels getting them off.
Heat from oxy acetylene is about the only thing that gets the off sometimes.
I like the hand
Is it the same on a big red horse Troy built tiller would seam to be
Yes.
Nice video but drop the music -- makes hearing your voice difficult for some of us geezers.
Great video. Thanks.
You're welcome. Hopefully it helped.
How wide is the bolt to replace the pin?
TYVM, friend.
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
My seals have been leaking for a while. Great video, Going to replace mine soon. It almost looks like my axles move in And out A bit when I turn, Is that normal on theses?
A little slop is normal and they'll go forever like this.
Only black duck tape though. So that the seeing impaired cant tell.
Well done -- thanks!
Hopefully it helps. Take care.
Thanks for you video. where is the best place to buy a seal kitI have a Pony build in 1976 I believe it is a P-40 model Thanks
Ebay will be the most reasonable with shipping.
Lmao, I was given a troy pony from my neighbor, he couldn't figure out why it wouldn't run... uh,,,, rust and water don't burn very good. Carb rebuild, Kreem the tank, replaced the tine seals and now on to the wheel seals. otherwise it looks to be in very good shape. thanks.
Those little Pony's are great tillers.
Very helpfully video. Thank you and thumb up #367.
Nice job
+Justin Tristani Hey Thanks.
I need to remove the wheel from my Troy Bilt Econohorse. The wheel has to bolts in it that appear to hold the wheel on. The bolts have 5/8 inch nuts on them, and there is not enough clearance to turn them. The back of the wheel isn't accessible due to what looks like some type of splash guard. Any ideas on how to get the wheel off?
+Dirk Whittemore There should only be one bolt on the outside of the rim running through the rim and drive shaft. I've never seen one on the inside.
Great Help!
Frank Bellamy I'm glad it was.
thanks!
I have an older model Troybilt horse that needs to have the seal replaced. Not sure of the decade of manufacture, maybe 70's to 80's. Is the 921-04031 (gw-96210) the part # for the replacement seals of that era ? And where can i order those from ? My tiller runs like a champ but leaks gear oil like a stuck pig.
Yes, the GW-9621 is the correct part. They used the same seal for the entire production run. I have a link in the video description for a pair of seals.
Thanks, ordered and on their way. Appreciate that.
nice shoes
Jason O Thanks. Too many close encounters with tillers.
I had to laugh. I know what you mean.
Nice video. Can you tell me what year was the tiller in the video manufactured? Also, is that the original engine that came with that tiller? I bought a tiller yesterday that looks exactly the one in your video and I'm trying to find out as much info as I can about it. I originally thought the engine and tiller looked mismatched, but now that I've seen another that looks exactly the same, maybe not.
IIWII Late 70's. This had the original Tecumseh 6hp motor. They are all virtually identical from the 60's-current with the engine being the only main difference.
Just got one of these tillers from my neighbor. It has an 8hp Briggs and Stratton. Needing a new gas tank and muffler along with a new throttle system but does run. Needs some serious TLC. Looking for parts. It no longer has the sticker with the model number. Do you know a good source for parts?
I do have a question. I have what looks like a 1975 Troy Bilt Horse and the depth gauge is not working properly at all. I have never dealt with one of these tillers before, but from what I can see, the depth gauge doesn't lock because either a bolt broke off or a spring is rusted out just above the tine guard and below the gauge handle. Do you have any recommendations on how to fix it? Without it, the thing is just yanking me all around the yard.
That square bolt/plug will come out. Then there should be a spring and pin. It's probably rusted, but you'll need to get out the pin and remnants of the spring. Chances are you'll just need a new random spring.
Oh! Ok, so it IS a spring I'm seeing and not rusted remains of bolt threads. That actually helps a lot.
To sixty five Ford I finally got my new seals on my axel the seals came off the axel with no problem all though the wheel gave me hell
Those wheels are buggers to get off.
Did you you get the seal from a general supply place like Motion Industries
I didn't get it from Motion. I bought mine from the links int he video description(Amazon)
I need to know how much oil to put in the transmmision on a 6 hp 1980 horse Troy bilt tiller
You just put it in until it spills out the upper side hole. It's around 3.5 quarts if I recall.
I just purchased a horse and it needs work. I'm going to let the mechanic do it cause I got the arthritis. Haha.
Best tillers made.
Good video.
Is that a 921-04031 (gw-9621) Oil Seal Troy-bilt Tillers Wheel Shaft Seal 1 Shaft Oem.
Thanks,
Larry from Connecticut
Yes, that is the standard seal for the Troy-Bilt Horse.
Where did you get your seal at? I have an early model late 70's early 80's horse with a 1.25" O.D. axle where would i purchase a couple.
Ryan Taylor Ebay is going to be your best bet. Amazon might have them as well.
Ryan Taylor Try these people for parts.www.ereplacementparts.com/troybilt-tiller-parts-c-26780_27175.html?osCsid=8cafl6ahn22atnb32vo5qa4qi1
E replacement is as about as expensive as it gets for the same part. Ebay or Amazon will give you the best deal.
Troy built there self is about 5 or 6 dollars they’ll ship it to you also that size too that is same as my 2013
But it's craftsman just get it replaced for free at lowes or ace hardware
huh?
Can somebody help me find the model number on this machine i have one but cant find it.
There is only a few variations of the Troy-Bilt Horse over the 50+ years they were made. Parts are essentially identical on all models.
Anybody know the part number (shaft seal)thanks
For the HORSE
PAIR of New WHEEL seals amzn.to/2LDbGqT
PAIR of New TINE shaft seals amzn.to/2qa3IZP
your glove at 00:07 lol
Was 69 taken?
He is not showing how to get the wheel and tire off!
Stop working on it as you're bound to mess something up. Didn't think I had to explain common sense.
:)
OK, first things first. Thanks for showing THE MOST HAZARD LADEN TECHNIQUES EVER! No safety glasses, using a screwdriver as a pry/chisel. You even broke off the tip and just kept motoring on. C'mon man, really?
Now, other than that ass-tightening sequence of watching a gorilla peel a banana, your observations, tips and actual work steps were sound and useful. So, thank you.
Be safe.
Richard
OSHA 30 certified. Structural Airframe Mechanic; UAW Local 967
Thanks