A little more info in case anyone was wondering: You can (as I did for this project) set the cutter to follow the splinter guard exactly but with this setup you can not use the leveling foot that comes with the guide rail kit when cutting this close to the end of the board. It seemed to cut square to the board but I didn't check as it didn't really matter for what I was making. This setup is very fast however, you can just mark the inside or outside of your desired dado, trench, flute, rebate etc and your cut will be dead on assuming you set the guide and router up accordingly. I drilled all 4 corners with a 3/4" Forsner bit so I had a known start and stop position, but could have gotten away with one then moving around the board. If you had a 3/4" plunge cutter you could skip the drilling all together but I do not have any plunge bits that large for a 1/4" collet. It didn't show but I also have Tritons fixed T-square on the rail which is dead on at 90-degrees and is nice piece of insurance , as in if your layout is off it is easily identifiable.
I have makita tracks and triton router. for dados, would you suggest i get the triton base? I need a trim router so was wondering if i get the makita trim and then the rail adaptor (as per your video) would be a better option. Obviously quicker to set up with the makita trim but not as powerful. Mostly be using for dados in plywood cabinets i need to make.
So glad I found this video - thank you .BUT...I recently bought the track saw and now I am searching for which routers are compatible ? I cannot find a site or article anywhere that says which specific router works- they all say “works with specific routers-“even the Makita site... although I am Very happy with the track saw - I am beginning to think I should have gone with the DeWalt or Festool now. Thanks for any help guys and take care out there.
I don't know which other routers work with the guide rail adapter, but I do know it doesn't work with Milwaukee's 2-1/4hp, standard or plunge base. The Makita has so much power though, I find myself using it for a lot of things I would have usually step up to a full size router for. I also have their cordless (and corded) track saw and have no regrets in purchasing it. The cordless has more power than their corded. I will say I also have the Festool HK55 corded though, and if I was forced to choose between the two I would take the Festool. I would NOT take the cordless HKC55 over the Makita however, it's under-powered. If Festool were to put their dual battery motor on the HKC I would likely sell the Makita but I don't think the sales numbers are there for them to do that.
You should be able to use a Bosch guide rail adapter that will work with the new Bosch rail or Festool/Makita style rail if you want Bosch. www.toolnut.com/accessories/saw-accessories/track-saw-accessories/bosch-fsnofa-track-adapter-for-routers.html
Does anyone have an issue with the guide bushing it comes with not being centre to the bit or collet and know how to fix it? It goes off centre when i clip the lever down it looks like
ThePhiloctopus That was the plan although they ended up being about .04 under 32, along with a few holes slightly under or over that. The jig i made had a small amount of play that i didn't notice until all the holes were drilled. As long as i maintain a top and bottom it should be fine for shelf pegs but the original intent was to drill holes for MFT tops. I've yet to test it out for that.
I wish I had taken some pictures of the jig I made, for posterity's sake. I haven't used it for anything yet, but if one was so inclined: You need a guide that works on the Makita (or whatever rail you are using). In hindsight, I would have made one out of a dense hardwood rather then the aluminum one I made. Route a channel the width of the raised 'guide' on the track. Locate the section of the track you want your pins to go through and make a parallel line in relation to the guide rail. Then drill 2 holes the exact diameter of whatever you are going to use for your pins 32mm (or whatever spacing you want) in the guide on your parallel line. After that, you just need the drill bit and a pin (another drill bit the same size turned upside down works best). Drill both holes in the track using the holes you drilled in the guide. After that, you advance the guide one space (32mm if that is the spacing you chose), insert the back of one of the drill bits through the rearmost hole in the guide and into the last hole you drilled through the guide rail. Continue this until you have drilled as many holes as you want or need. If you have a drill press (I don't) you could do this a bit easier with a fence and a fixed pin on the table of the drill press. You would drill your first 2 holes manually at whatever spacing, using the fence to maintain parallel on the rail. Then somehow fix a pin the diameter of your holes to the table (make a hardwood base or something?) Then, just lift the guide rail off and advance one hole, similar to the method I used but this way would be more accurate and maybe a bit faster.
@@JasonTaylor1 Have you followed up on this? I have the PARF mk1 (only 96 mm). Do you have the mk2 with 32 mm of set possibility? Either way how are you thinking of getting a pin into the Makita adapter base?
i've got the makita rt50z router and the Makita 194579-2 adapter from Amazon, it works if you have the plunge base I believe but let me double check. just moved and i cant find it.
No, it is a 3/4" slot cutter bit with 1/4" shank. Definitely not enough room for a 1/2" collet on this router. There may be adapters available for some uncommon shank diameters either in standard or metric but I have not seen any.
It looks like Makita version of the Festool LR-32 rail for drilling shelf pin holes and making new MFT table tops. I wish Makita had this system. Probably wouldn't be terribly hard to rig up but accurately drilling the holes... A machine shop would be your best bet unless you got the skills.
@essinem4130 is there a gap between plunge base and workpiece because it sits on top of guide rail? If so what keeps it from tipping towards workplace. Hope that makes sense
Yes, there is. I kind of glossed over it in my comment below but to answer your question: the guide rail adapter rods are pretty sturdy, if they do flex it is a very small amount. The bigger issue I found when setting it up is that the router does not sit at a perfect 90 degrees to the guide rail when using it unsupported like I was in this video. This is something Makita was aware of, however. They give you an adjustable foot that mounts on the 2 rods on the outside of the router (it is the rightmost plastic piece with 2 wingnuts as seen here www.amazon.com/Makita-194579-2-Router-Guide-Adapter/dp/B004Z55E9I )This enables you to set the router adapter at 90 degrees to the work piece as well as supporting the outside of the router. The problem with it, when working within 3-4 inches of the edge of your work piece (as I was here) is the foot will be overhanging your work piece. All that said, when I checked the orientation of the router base to the work piece without using the leveling foot, it was within .15 of a degree which is totally fine for most of what I do. A shallow groove or dado you will never notice it, but if you were trying to cut some 3+" deep mortises it may become an issue, but I wouldn't use this setup for that kind of work.
Ah i did read that just didn’t put 2 and 2 together but understand now. Looks like a solid attachment for guide rail might eventually pick it up. Thanks!
Ah i did read that just didn’t put 2 and 2 together but understand now. Looks like a solid attachment for guide rail might eventually pick it up. Thanks!
Ah i did read that just didn’t put 2 and 2 together but understand now. Looks like a solid attachment for guide rail might eventually pick it up. Thanks!
Ah i did read that just didn’t put 2 and 2 together but understand now. Looks like a solid attachment for guide rail might eventually pick it up. Thanks!
Nice - any info on how you put the LR32 holes in the rail? Thanks
Makita could sell more products if their website contained information as to what rails work with their products
very nice and thank you. Found you through your Amazon comment
A little more info in case anyone was wondering:
You can (as I did for this project) set the cutter to follow the splinter guard exactly but with this setup you can not use the leveling foot that comes with the guide rail kit when cutting this close to the end of the board. It seemed to cut square to the board but I didn't check as it didn't really matter for what I was making. This setup is very fast however, you can just mark the inside or outside of your desired dado, trench, flute, rebate etc and your cut will be dead on assuming you set the guide and router up accordingly. I drilled all 4 corners with a 3/4" Forsner bit so I had a known start and stop position, but could have gotten away with one then moving around the board. If you had a 3/4" plunge cutter you could skip the drilling all together but I do not have any plunge bits that large for a 1/4" collet. It didn't show but I also have Tritons fixed T-square on the rail which is dead on at 90-degrees and is nice piece of insurance , as in if your layout is off it is easily identifiable.
I have makita tracks and triton router. for dados, would you suggest i get the triton base? I need a trim router so was wondering if i get the makita trim and then the rail adaptor (as per your video) would be a better option. Obviously quicker to set up with the makita trim but not as powerful. Mostly be using for dados in plywood cabinets i need to make.
how did you get the LR32 holes in the rail, please?
Hey bro where you bought this makita rail
So glad I found this video - thank you .BUT...I recently bought the track saw and now I am searching for which routers are compatible ? I cannot find a site or article anywhere that says which specific router works- they all say “works with specific routers-“even the Makita site... although I am Very happy with the track saw - I am beginning to think I should have gone with the DeWalt or Festool now. Thanks for any help guys and take care out there.
I don't know which other routers work with the guide rail adapter, but I do know it doesn't work with Milwaukee's 2-1/4hp, standard or plunge base. The Makita has so much power though, I find myself using it for a lot of things I would have usually step up to a full size router for.
I also have their cordless (and corded) track saw and have no regrets in purchasing it. The cordless has more power than their corded. I will say I also have the Festool HK55 corded though, and if I was forced to choose between the two I would take the Festool. I would NOT take the cordless HKC55 over the Makita however, it's under-powered. If Festool were to put their dual battery motor on the HKC I would likely sell the Makita but I don't think the sales numbers are there for them to do that.
You should be able to use a Bosch guide rail adapter that will work with the new Bosch rail or Festool/Makita style rail if you want Bosch. www.toolnut.com/accessories/saw-accessories/track-saw-accessories/bosch-fsnofa-track-adapter-for-routers.html
Does anyone have an issue with the guide bushing it comes with not being centre to the bit or collet and know how to fix it? It goes off centre when i clip the lever down it looks like
Is this a Makita track saw and a separate router jig?
yes
Where did you buy thus makita rail?
did you rig your own 32mm hole system onto that rail?
ThePhiloctopus That was the plan although they ended up being about .04 under 32, along with a few holes slightly under or over that. The jig i made had a small amount of play that i didn't notice until all the holes were drilled. As long as i maintain a top and bottom it should be fine for shelf pegs but the original intent was to drill holes for MFT tops. I've yet to test it out for that.
I'm also wondering that.
I wish I had taken some pictures of the jig I made, for posterity's sake. I haven't used it for anything yet, but if one was so inclined:
You need a guide that works on the Makita (or whatever rail you are using). In hindsight, I would have made one out of a dense hardwood rather then the aluminum one I made. Route a channel the width of the raised 'guide' on the track. Locate the section of the track you want your pins to go through and make a parallel line in relation to the guide rail. Then drill 2 holes the exact diameter of whatever you are going to use for your pins 32mm (or whatever spacing you want) in the guide on your parallel line. After that, you just need the drill bit and a pin (another drill bit the same size turned upside down works best). Drill both holes in the track using the holes you drilled in the guide. After that, you advance the guide one space (32mm if that is the spacing you chose), insert the back of one of the drill bits through the rearmost hole in the guide and into the last hole you drilled through the guide rail. Continue this until you have drilled as many holes as you want or need.
If you have a drill press (I don't) you could do this a bit easier with a fence and a fixed pin on the table of the drill press. You would drill your first 2 holes manually at whatever spacing, using the fence to maintain parallel on the rail. Then somehow fix a pin the diameter of your holes to the table (make a hardwood base or something?) Then, just lift the guide rail off and advance one hole, similar to the method I used but this way would be more accurate and maybe a bit faster.
I plan on doing the same thing to my rails. I bought a PARF jig to make dog holes for a table and it seems that I could make it work for this also.
@@JasonTaylor1 Have you followed up on this? I have the PARF mk1 (only 96 mm). Do you have the mk2 with 32 mm of set possibility? Either way how are you thinking of getting a pin into the Makita adapter base?
Can't find 196094-2 anywhere in the UK , will the Guide Rail Adaptor work with 195563-0 ?
i've got the makita rt50z router and the Makita 194579-2 adapter from Amazon, it works if you have the plunge base I believe but let me double check. just moved and i cant find it.
I can almost taste the wood chips!!
Hi, is that a 1/2” collet adaptor in the Chuck? If so what brand? Cheers
No, it is a 3/4" slot cutter bit with 1/4" shank. Definitely not enough room for a 1/2" collet on this router. There may be adapters available for some uncommon shank diameters either in standard or metric but I have not seen any.
caute, what's the guide with the holes?
It looks like Makita version of the Festool LR-32 rail for drilling shelf pin holes and making new MFT table tops. I wish Makita had this system. Probably wouldn't be terribly hard to rig up but accurately drilling the holes... A machine shop would be your best bet unless you got the skills.
How did you get those holes in that rail
In my reply to ThePhiloctopus below I tried to explain how I did it, and how I would do it again if I had a drill press.
@essinem4130 is there a gap between plunge base and workpiece because it sits on top of guide rail? If so what keeps it from tipping towards workplace. Hope that makes sense
Yes, there is. I kind of glossed over it in my comment below but to answer your question: the guide rail adapter rods are pretty sturdy, if they do flex it is a very small amount. The bigger issue I found when setting it up is that the router does not sit at a perfect 90 degrees to the guide rail when using it unsupported like I was in this video. This is something Makita was aware of, however. They give you an adjustable foot that mounts on the 2 rods on the outside of the router (it is the rightmost plastic piece with 2 wingnuts as seen here www.amazon.com/Makita-194579-2-Router-Guide-Adapter/dp/B004Z55E9I )This enables you to set the router adapter at 90 degrees to the work piece as well as supporting the outside of the router. The problem with it, when working within 3-4 inches of the edge of your work piece (as I was here) is the foot will be overhanging your work piece.
All that said, when I checked the orientation of the router base to the work piece without using the leveling foot, it was within .15 of a degree which is totally fine for most of what I do. A shallow groove or dado you will never notice it, but if you were trying to cut some 3+" deep mortises it may become an issue, but I wouldn't use this setup for that kind of work.
Ah i did read that just didn’t put 2 and 2 together but understand now. Looks like a solid attachment for guide rail might eventually pick it up. Thanks!
Ah i did read that just didn’t put 2 and 2 together but understand now. Looks like a solid attachment for guide rail might eventually pick it up. Thanks!
Ah i did read that just didn’t put 2 and 2 together but understand now. Looks like a solid attachment for guide rail might eventually pick it up. Thanks!
Ah i did read that just didn’t put 2 and 2 together but understand now. Looks like a solid attachment for guide rail might eventually pick it up. Thanks!
dope as fuck. the time that will save
If you had a tripod or could put the camera down you could make an informative video. Until then this is hopeless.
What are the holes in the track for mate ?
LR32 system. Look at Festool.