WD-40 and a blow torch. The screw and the stem are different materials that expand at different rates with heat. I was able to heat it, catch the end with vice grips and twist it out. Unfortunately, I forgot to record any of that. Great question though. I hope you don’t have the same problem. It was annoying.
@@JaysPlace2468 I've got a faucet screw that won't come out. I haven't broken the head off, but I think that heating the screw might do the trick in getting it out. I know it works on nails that are tough to pull.
Same! I have to keep a bucket under the spigot to catch the leak. Would much rather just fix it. And now I know where to start. "It's just parts." Love that! Nice video, thank you!
Finally , someone goes to the store and buys the correct replacement part instead of making an o ring out of the elastic waistband on some old jockey shorts .
thank you for sharing this repair, its nice to see others sharing the experience they have and that simple things can be fixed. Its not always this simple but it is worth a shot. (Especially if you can isolate the valve)
@@JaysPlace2468 as another YTer be careful in the coment section as you grow you will find more and more discouraging comments. Dont lt them get you down. If you ever want to chat feel free to email me.
Awesome that you put the link to this video in your vacuum breaker vid (thank you!). THIS vid addresses my problem. Praying I don't break the screw because I'm not sure I trust myself with a blowtorch next to vinyl siding, but that's me. I appreciate your posts.
I’ve started wearing gloves whenever I use anything like that because I always make a mess too. Glad to know I’m not the only one. In hindsight I would have coated the parts but it’s hard to take it all back apart again when you’re done and realize you forgot. Thanks for adding to the conversation!
@@JaysPlace2468 I usually get it all over me when I'm working on the suspension under the car. It starts neatly on the bolts, but after fighting, squirming, it's on my face, arms, legs. But, BOY, it sure does WORK!. LOL
Good job! My approach on our 40 year old house is more ambitious. We live in hard freeze territory, so all the faucets sold here are long reach things that shut off the water several inches behind the wall, in the crawl space. Not many will have both the climate and the ready access to the pipe, but I do. I chose a quarter turn valve and replaced the entire valve. Nice! There is a lot of territory between these two extremes. For anybody who doesn't want to stir up the evil spirits that inhabit all plumbing, and those who appreciate ease and low cost, your approach is the way to go.
Thank you. I never messed with this kind of a faucet before and I thought I was going to have to replace the whole guts of this thing under the mobile home.
I have also been told you should lube the "o" ring and if you don't have the right oil, you can use a vegetable oil. It is used to just keep the 'O' ring from drying out.
You’re absolutely correct. In hind sight, I would have done that. I love that this little community I’m trying to build can help each other with tips like this in the comments of my video. Thanks so much for watching and adding to the conversation!
@@JaysPlace2468 glad to help, I learned somewhat the hard way, when I was replacing a "o" ring on my water filter, coming from the lake. I ended up having to replace it earlier then expected cause the ring failed. Keep up the great video's
Good going keeping it simple. I've always had to deal with old plumbing. On my repairs, whenever possible I replace the screws and nuts with stainless. The brass pieces invariably corrode and chip or break.
Thanks, my dad always says “it’s just parts” and that made taking things apart less intimidating for me. Take it apart, replace the broken pieces and move on to the next project. Except when the screw snaps off and the project takes you twice as long 😆At least I didn’t have to pay a plumber for a simple fix!
Missing is tne use of silicone grease, the all purpose DIY plumbers friend. For a few cents per job It will simultaneously lubricate threads, o-rings and washers, deter corrosion, and resist abrasion degradation from iron and minerals binding onto parts when not in use.
Great tip, I’ll have to look into this. My goal for this channel is to create a community where DIYers can learn and share their home maintenance experiences. I appreciate you watching and taking the time to add to the conversation!
We have a similar faucet with the same problem at work, thanks, now I can tell them how we fix it👍I think we have similar here at home so very useful information and probably just pick up a couple of rebuild kits. These faucets are different from what I usually deal with so haven't totally tore one down yet.
Glad I could help. My goal is to build a community of people that can share their experiences with projects like this and we can all learn from each other. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the kind words and for watching my video. My goal is to create a community where people can learn and share their experiences in home maintenance. My videos are an entry into the conversation!
Plumber here. It is packing, not a packing nut. The packing nut is the plastic piece you screw in to compress the packing. Also, you should have greased the o-ring with silicone or heat proof grease and flushed the faucet before reassembling.
Thanks for weighing in. I have since learned that I used the wrong terminology and I totally forgot to grease the o-ring. It’s funny when you add filming for RUclips into the mix, especially when you’re first starting, you forget things, the project takes twice as long and even if you do it perfect, you’re still subject to criticism once you post it. I’m happy to have a plumber add to the conversation. I’m trying to build a community where homeowners can share their experiences and knowledge as we all help each other out but I’m just a DIYer that isn’t afraid to try to figure it out. There are certainly projects where I wouldn’t hesitate to call in a pro. Thanks for watching!
not meaning to be overly picky, but with no hose connected to the spigot there's no backpressure, which in my experience is a part of why there was a leak in the first place. The rest of the video was excellent, and hopefully will do the trick for my two 25 year-old spigots.
Hi Thanks for your input. This spigot has leaked whenever I turn it on for years so the o-ring and packing were definitely worn out. I just installed a hose reel this year and I only turn it on when the hose is in use and I relieve the pressure afterwards. You are definitely right that leaving it on could cause back pressure that could wear parts early. I just wish I had remembered to drain it before I started disassembling the handle. 😁
I’m not a plumber, but I disagree with R54. When you shut off the main, your plumbing system is still pressurized by almost the municipal pressure of 40+ psi (70 psi in my neighborhood). Thus, when you open any faucet or spigot, you’ll see water being forced out at municipal pressure but dropping quickly as there is no incoming pressure with the main valve closed. By that time, you’ll have a pint or 2 of water coming out with another pint to gallon still in the pipes.
@@tonymanero5544 I think what rtd54 is saying is that the leak was not definitely proven to be corrected. Prior to the repair, the faucet leaks and the hose is attached.With the hose attached, even with the hose end nozzle open, there is some back pressure caused by the volume of water in the hose. After the repair, we don't see the faucet operate without the added back pressure of the hose.
Basic physics and poperties of materials . The water in the hose is under pressure when the main is connected. The hose is an elastic, material, and stretches to increase in volume (like a balloon does when filled with air) when it is connected to the mains and water isn't allowed to flow freely. Shutting off the faucet traps that water under pressure in the hose. Wheter you open the nozzle or detach the hose at the faucet the effect is the same. The hose will contract to its resting volume and squeeze out the water- just like a filled balloon does when you release it.
@@psdaengr911 Your second to last sentence should include the phrase "or a leak in the hose bib'. Your last sentence assumes a leak in the system which reduces pressure and allows the hose to constrict. In a perfect system. after closing the faucet, the pressure is the same on both sides of the closed valve.
Are all/most water spigots the same? Like if I just go to the hardware store and buy the same pcs, are they most likely going to fit? Or should I bring the plastic pc and O ring in when buying the new stuff?
There are different styles. You’re best off bringing the parts to the store and sizing the replacement. If it’s the same Mansfield style as mine, it should be the same parts but best off making sure
I have the same hose spigot. Mine doesnt leak (yet) but has a loud squeak when i turn it on and off, can i just take the knob apart and spray wd40 in there? Will that fix the squeak?
I can’t be certain but I think a lot of the squeaks on faucets like this come from the back of the stem. If I was trying to fix a squeak, I think that is where I would start. I’d shut off the water, take it apart as I did in the video and maybe lubricate the threads on the back with some anti-seize lubricant. I’m not a plumber but I know we have a few plumbers in the comments. Maybe one of them might weigh in.
I heated it up with a torch. The contrasting metals expand at different rates allowing me to grab the end with pliers while it was hot and twist it out.
Do you mean the drips out of the faucet opening? I actually had an issue with the video when I recorded it the first time so I had to record myself turning it on again. The opening in the faucet was still wet from the first time and there were a couple drops of water. I never even noticed it when I edited the video. Good eye! 👀 I can tell you that 7 months later and using this spigot to wash my car and water the lawn and garden, it’s no longer leaking at all.
You should turn off your electric waterheater or close the valves to it before draining your lines to prevent any chance of the siphon draining the waterheater and burning out the elements.
Thanks for adding to the conversation. Is this something I’d need to be concerned about with a gas boiler where the hot water tank is basically just a holding tank?
@@JaysPlace2468 I would shut the valves or turn off the gas to prevent the flue from overheating if the tank should siphon. I loved your video. Thanks for the great content!!
I actually had the terminology wrong. The “gasket” that I replaced is just called packing and I had to look it up online then I sized it up at the store by bringing in the parts I had.
This applies to this style of spigot, often called the Mansfield style, but there are other styles that are similar and you could apply this logic to. My best advice would be to find a tutorial on RUclips with one that looks like yours.
The kit may be best for very old faucets. The nylon gets brittle and can crack. This way you're replacing the packing, the nylon core, with washer affixed, the screw with a fresh brass one. However if you have a sturdy core, a new o ring, packing or washer is fine. I just fixed a 50YO bathroom setvwith a nylon core that came loose with $1 of parts. The other bath/shower was 75YO and I patched it with new washers and o rings + lube...however the all copper core and seat is worn out on the Hot side, so even a new core (if I could find one to fit) won't help much. That needs a full replacement bath assembly. Out comes the cutters and torch.
If your hardware store sells the packing and o-ring for 99 cents each like mine does and that’s all it is, tax might put you a little over the $4 but I can’t control that. Good luck, thanks for watching.
That bolt/screw head was going to break off regardless of how much lubricant you attempted to spray due its age and the location of the leak. Be thankful it was a combination hex head rather than an old slotted panhead screw affixing the handle to the stem.
I think you are right. It was very weak right at the base of the head. I’m just glad I was able to heat it and grip the end to get it out so I didn’t have to replace the stem or the whole silcock.
@@leeannegibbs2887 You could try using a baking soda paste and vinegar to breakdown any buildup on, around, and behind the head which should give you a clean bite while also penetrating into the threads.
I have the same problem with a rusted on screw. No hex head to use a socket, only a slotted head. Used a lot of penetrating oil but won't come off. I'm afraid using a torch will melt the plastic. I may try to drill it out and use a screw extractor but if unsuccessful I may have to go with the expensive option and replace the whole assembly. What is the thread size of that screw? Any other advice, (from anybody)?
I'm not sure about the thread size but if it is the same style as the one in my video, you can buy the replacement handle and screw on Amazon. amzn.to/43L6Ldc If I was in your situation, I'd probably intentionally and gently break the plastic handle off and that will give you a good place to grip the screw with a pair of vice grips. From there, I'd heat it with a torch. The screw and stem are different materials and will expand at different rates. This will allow you to twist it out with the vice grips. Be careful, you don't want to start a fire or melt your siding or break the stem but if it was me, I'd attempt this knowing that the replacement handle and screw are around $11 and the replacing the whole hose bib is a much bigger job and 2-3x the cost. Don't buy the handle and screw until you get the old one out, that way you don't have to bother returning it or wasting your money if the ultimate fix is replacing the hose bib. Good luck, thanks for watching and contributing to the conversation. Let us all know how it works out.
@@JaysPlace2468 Thanks for the advice. My handle is metal so not easy to break it off. I haven't attempted to drill it out yet since it is so low to the ground it is awkward getting the drill straight. I haven't given up yet!
Yeah, but it was leaking every time I watered the lawn or washed the car and my water bill was creeping up with all the wasted water. This way it’s fixed now and didn’t cost me much to do it.
Something like this? ruclips.net/video/7vG-oBmSi3Y/видео.html if it’s the vacuum breaker in there, it could be getting stuck and tapping on it temporarily frees it up or it could be starting to fail.
You can replace that white part if you can get it off. They make a kit with all of these parts combined. It's a little more than $2 but you'll get the packing and o-ring too. I hope you're able to get it fixed. amzn.to/3WIRAPt
Yes, I was still getting used to filming things when I made that video and forgot to get that footage. I did cap it in the next video I did which shows it doesn’t leak. If you’re interested it’s right here. ruclips.net/video/7vG-oBmSi3Y/видео.html I’m just trying to get a little better with each video and learning as I go. Thanks for watching.
Take a look at this video to see if it answers your questions about what’s in there and how to replace it. ruclips.net/video/7vG-oBmSi3Y/видео.html Best of luck and thanks for watching
if you use faucet grease on the rubber parts- they will 'seat in' better & that will help them last longer. the same reason tire shops put soap on the bead of tires before putting them on a rim.
Sorry, I was very new to RUclips when I made this video and forgot to record that part. I answered that question in the pinned comment. I basically used some WD40 and I heated it with a blow torch. The two different metals expand at different rates. This allowed me to grab the end with vice grips and twist it out.
@@JohnRizzo-you drill it and retap if it broke off flush with the threads. The handle screw is not a high torque critical part. It just needs to keep the handle from falling off. If you remove the core (nylon piece he is showing) you should be able to get vice grips on the broken head stud. If it doesn't disintegrate too..spin it out that way. HOWEVER lubricate it first with real penetrating oil like PB blaster. WD 40 is a water displacement film oil that sorta works as a penetrating oil.
No such thing as a dumb question, just something you haven’t learned yet. The screw threads into the end of the faucet stem. Its main purpose is to prevent the handle from falling off. It doesn’t actually have to be tight enough to support the torque of the handle turning. The handle has a square opening that goes around the squared end of the stem and that supports the turning.
That’s a tough thing to troubleshoot from a distance but I would guess your kitchen and spigot may be on a different zone than the rest of the house and is either clogged or partially shut off. Has it always been like that or did it just start happening recently? If it started recently, I always try to think about what might have changed in that time frame. Did you have some other type of work done and maybe someone adjusted a valve?
@@JaysPlace2468 a few months ago,outdoor faucet and kitchen same time. Where is the valve to check? Under the sink? They are definitely next to each other
I have these on my house and they squeak so bad. I have hit them with silicone spray, WD-40, etc. and nothing works. Is it the packing nut? Not a big deal just drives me nuts like nails across chalk board when I use hoses. Cheers
Mine did the same. It stopped after I made this fix but I’m not sure what change fixed it. I wouldn’t think the packing would affect it. Maybe it was just taking things apart and putting them back together but I think it could have been the rusty screw that i replaced
@@JaysPlace2468 I will take mine apart and clean everything and replace what is bad and see if that makes a difference. LOL I noticed the squeak in the beginning of your video and then at the end it was gone so I wanted to check and see if it was a specific item. Worst case I will drop a couple bucks and do what you did and see if that works. Thanks for feedback, cheers!
Those are called cloth-inserted packing for the purists out there. If the packing hasn't dissolved these can sometimes be fixed by carefully tightening the packing nut. Stores also sell string packing if you can't source the ideal packing
String packing was the go to for bonnet faucets (the traditional faucet on the Monopoly Board) as there used to be all shapes of bonnets under the handle (indoor and outdoor faucets). Today you can get a rubber or fiber bonnet packing nut shaped like a dome. Packing string (paying string) is a good thing to have around if you have a pre 1950s house.
Downfall of being a new RUclipsr. I actually cap it and turn it on in my next video that I filmed right after this fix. If you care to see it, here’s a link. ruclips.net/video/7vG-oBmSi3Y/видео.html
ANY time you take apart a plumbing fixture, replace ALL rubber parts. dont question it, just replace it. they are cheap and universal in almost all cases.
@@JaysPlace2468 as a plumber, I like to watch videos like yours, to see what homeowners that arent plumbers do when they fix things. Teaches me a lot of cheaper tricks and fixes that I would normally not do. Like this, I would have bought the repair kit for that particular frost free silcock and rebuilt it at a higher cost, but you showed a great way to save some money with great results. Good stuff
Well thank you so much. I love hearing from trades people in the comments. It helps me learn as well. There are a lot of jobs where I’d just hire a plumber but I like to attempt to fix some of the simpler things. There is some real satisfaction in fixing something like this yourself as I’m sure you’re aware. If my experiences help someone else fix theirs or learn what not to do, I’ve succeeded.
Totally forgot and I wasn’t going to bother to take it apart after I got it back together. It’s funny when you add filming into the mix, especially at first, you forget things, the project takes twice as long and even if you get it perfect, you’ll get someone who does it differently. I’m learning as I go and hopefully I get a little better with each video. Thanks for watching!
remember when you turn water back on to turn your faucets inside on or you will get air in your water lines . The thus when your turn on your faucets is annoying and can cause damage to your washers in your faucets . If you have a well this is a good time to back flush the pressure tank and also either way a great time to drain water heater of sediment
I usually turn on the one farthest from the shutoff very slowly to refill the lines. So many things to do to maintain a house. Thanks for your input and thanks for watching!
Modern faucets have ceramic lined mixer cartridges, and I think opening one of those faucets to fill the plumb pipes and get rid of air is fairly safe. But my municipal pressure is 70 psi.
Good luck to the home owner on repairing hose bibs. Product specific typically and it will leak 9 out of ten times. Is this guy a journeyman plumber? Good luck. Care with info like this for he isn’t mentioning that this is one type of bib with multiple repair parts that are pretty much all different.
There are certainly different types of hose bibs. This is one of the more common types. If yours looks like this, it is a project that is within reach for most DIYers. You definitely have to be prepared for different outcomes and things that could go wrong but this can be a very simple affordable fix. I’m not claiming this is a one size fits all fix, just showing people one possible solution. I’d always advise people to call in a professional if you’re not comfortable. Thanks for watching!
I saw it on the Prier youtube video and there were a few little pieces that flushed out on to my driveway. None of them had any of the fabric laced into them. I also saw the part in the replacement kit which I didn’t end up buying because I could get just the 2 parts I needed cheaper on their own. Thanks for watching!
You’re right, it’s not a very hard job to replace the whole thing. For me, this leads to a sheetrocked basement ceiling and I’d have to locate the pipe and cut a hole in the ceiling to access it. The few bucks I spent on this was my preferred option at this point. For some, it may make more sense to change but it’s definitely cheaper to repair.
I few hours later and a couple trips to the hardware store? Not sure if that’s considered a 2 dollar fix, at least not very efficient. Great if that works for you but not sure if you should be broadcasting your plumbing experience.
Most plumbers are going to charge at least $100 just to show up. I hope I’ve showed that this fix is within reach for a lot of people and they can probably save some money if they are willing to do the work themselves. Thanks for watching!
That was a RUclips rookie mistake. I did cap the spigot and turn it back on in my next video but forgot to include that clip here. It hasn’t leaked since the fix. You can check it out about 26 seconds into this video if you’d like. ruclips.net/video/7vG-oBmSi3Y/видео.html
Usually. At least this way people can see what they could encounter when fixing it themselves. Sounds like you have a lot of experience fixing things around the house. A one hour project usually takes two. 😂
I’m on day 3 of fixing this exact same faucet you did.. spraying it with PB blast and heating the screw with the hope it releases kindly.. I think tomorrow is the day I go cave man at it😂
I can report success on day 3, the screw finally turned and averted cave man approach.. Heat and Pb blast got it to loosen…From that point on it was straight forward like you show on your video, I did replace all the parts that were in the kit. I was under pressure to fix it because we were leaving the next day for a 10 day vacation and I needed to get the leak under control so that I can keep the faucet open for the garden drip system. Much appreciate the video you did… we just need that bit of encouragement sometimes when things get tight :-)
Yeah, it didn’t matter what I sprayed on there, that screw was breaking off. Thanks for adding to the conversation maybe it helps someone reading the comments. Is there a penetrating lubricant that you prefer?
That’s not a packing NUT . its packing material the plastic piece is acting as packing NUT. Folks don’t try that unless your ready to replace the faucet. You’ll likely wind up with a big mess and your water off till plumber arrives $450 . Don’t take advice from someone who’s trying it 1st time themself looking for clicks .
I’d certainly never suggest that anyone try something that they aren’t comfortable doing and I’ve definitely called in plumbers over the years to do something that is over my head. I may have messed up some terminology and faced some unexpected steps but this was a relatively simple rebuild that solved my problem and I wanted to share my experience with other homeowners who may be in a similar situation. My intent here on RUclips is to build a community where people can help each other by sharing their experiences in maintaining their home and a lot of people have chimed in and shared things I missed or could do better next time. That’s what I’m here for, not the clicks.
I’m not saying you do this but people don’t have a problem spending money at the coffee shop, liquor store or going out for dinner. When it comes to anything to do with water and the house I don’t mind spending the money to get good parts. When it comes to the house I don’t go for the cheap parts to save a buck and have trouble down the line
I’d always recommend calling in a pro if you’re not comfortable or you have the extra money to do so. This was a project that I felt I could tackle and my fix is holding up so far. Thanks for adding to the conversation. I appreciate your perspective.
@@JaysPlace2468 I’m sure it works fine. When it comes to water I always seem to have issues with it leaking and not catching it in time and having water damage
Haha 😂 I definitely made the assumption that most homeowners would have WD40 and a few tools lying around. Maybe I should change the title to “Try this 2 dollar plus the price of WD40 fix” Doesn’t sound as catchy does it? 😂
@@JaysPlace2468 I was joking I have a few cans. I didn't even need to fix mine. I just liked your fancy thumbnail and title and watched it. I'll come back if I ever need to fix mine.
Those Prier spigots are POS. I have two on my new house and their design sucks. It loosens the plastic nut if you turn it off just a little too hard because of reverse threads. I Much prefer Woodford spigots and will replace mine whenever I get the chance.
You’re the second person I’ve heard mention the Woodford spigots. If mine ever get to the point of needing to replace them, I’m going to check those out. Thanks for the tip, I appreciate it.
I’ve had a few people comment on that and in hindsight, I would’ve shown that better. That being said, if it’s leaking with a hose on it, that’s a problem that I needed to fix. In my next video that I filmed right after this one, I capped the spigot and turned on the water and the leak was fixed. I should have included that footage here. Take a look if you want to see what I mean. It’s a short video. Thanks for watching and commenting! ruclips.net/video/7vG-oBmSi3Y/видео.html
Honest question: where are you getting a frost free Mansfield style hose bib for $10. They are at least $35-$40 everywhere I’ve looked. My rebuild is holding up pretty well.
Hmm, that’s not how it went for me. The hardware store is within walking distance, had both of the pieces I needed and the wife was appreciative of the fact that I fixed it and we didn’t have to call a plumber. That being said, I’ve definitely had projects like you mention 😂
It's disgusting that they made the bonnet nut out of plastic instead of brass. The screw in the handle should also be brass with some anti seize on it.
Thanks for the tip. I definitely used more than you saw on the video but I guess I still didn’t use enough. The screw was VERY rusty! Thanks for watching
When you initially showed that the faucet leaked when turned on, there was something restricting the water from flowing out the other end of the hose. It looked like a spray nozzle, and it appeared there was a hose reel located higher than the faucet, so gravity working against u too. Path of Least Resistance: Obviously, water is going to flow out the larger opening at the end of the hose before its going to come out the the tiny leak in the bonnet or valve body. After you shut off the main & still got sprayed when taking the faucet apart, it was because the hose was still pressured up. It COULDN'T drain or depressure because of whatever was on the other end of the hose. You got wet because the water went the first place it COULD go, once the faucet was apart. Hence, your "Tip," which was drain the line or drain the hose. How about, "Fully open the sprayer nozzle to drain the hose" or "Drain and Remove the hose?" You never mention it, but the hose HAS MAGICALLY DISSAPPEARED and is GONE when you start putting the new parts on. You turned the faucet back on after you were done, but the viewer has no way of knowing whether the repair was legitimately successful or not. With the hose gone, there's ZERO pressure, so I guess we'll never really know. Because credibility kind of disappeared along with the disappearing hose & closed sprayer nozzle u never mentioned removing.
I fully understand what you are saying. The hose disappeared because it was in my way but I can guarantee you that my repair fixed the leak because I capped the spigot and turned it on in my next video which I did right after this one. You can take a look at that video if you’d like. It’s a short one. ruclips.net/video/7vG-oBmSi3Y/видео.html I assure you, I’m not trying to fool anyone and the fix is credible. Thanks for watching!
@@evelynmahoney3569 I appreciate your constructive criticism. I’m still learning how to film and edit my videos and just trying to get 1% better every time. My goal is to create a community where we can share home maintenance projects and discuss the best practices to help make things easier for the everyday person trying to maintain the place they live.
I certainly could have gone that route but there is a big difference between a $50 hose bib and $2 worth of gaskets. This also goes into a basement with a sheet rocked ceiling and limited access so this was a good solution for me. I might replace the whole thing out back at some point where I can access it better. Thanks for bringing up that option and thanks for watching!
@@JaysPlace2468 i have done this hundres of times. Get an access panel, cut the sheet rock replace the silcox. Install panel for the next time. They always break, unfortunately they are all junk.
Usually homeowner forgets to disconnect hose in winter and splits(at least in my location). I’ve replace hundreds over 30 years. This probably just needed the packing nut snugged up about 1/4 turn.
I’d love to know where you’re finding those prices. Everything around me was $40-$75. Regardless of price, this was much easier because the spigot leads to a finished basement ceiling with no access so it would have been a chore to replace. Thanks for watching and chiming in and seriously, let me know where you’re finding it for $10 now a days.
Well you are either a plumber trying to scare people away from DIY or you are rich. Either way, your opinion is less valuable than the brown stuff I flush down my toilet
Thanks. But DIYers will be frustrated by determining what replacement parts you’ll need. Look at the spigot manufacturer as a start of your Google research. And you will want to get a kit with the right parts, as with high gas prices because of Russia and Saudi Arabia collusion with Trump MAGA, you don’t want to make 2 trips for to your big box or hardware store.
I just hope my videos find someone that they can help and I’m hoping to form a community of people who can learn from each other’s experiences in maintaining a home. Thanks for watching.
Manufactured homes are not just "parts" or it could be fixed by replacing the handle. That can't be done on manufactured homes. The "part" that needs to be replaced is about 16-18 inches and requires you to go under the house. More worthless informatikn
I wasn’t aware that the outdoor spigot was different on manufactured homes. It sounds like you are saying that the entire silcock has to be replaced or that you have a different style faucet. Sorry I couldn’t be of help.
Nice video, but you should have re-connected the hose back to the spigot and then turn it on. Just for people to see that the pressure of the water didn't leak on the spigot.
Yeah, in hind sight, you’re right. I did cap the line and turn it on in my next video about the vacuum breaker which shows that it was fixed but these are the errors of a new RUclipsr. Thanks for watching and making a constructive suggestion!
how did you REMOVE the broken screww??
WD-40 and a blow torch. The screw and the stem are different materials that expand at different rates with heat. I was able to heat it, catch the end with vice grips and twist it out. Unfortunately, I forgot to record any of that. Great question though. I hope you don’t have the same problem. It was annoying.
@@JaysPlace2468 I've got a faucet screw that won't come out. I haven't broken the head off, but I think that heating the screw might do the trick in getting it out. I know it works on nails that are tough to pull.
Heating causes the metal to expand, thus making it easier to remove rusted or stubborn parts.
Probably just sprayed more oil on the water.........
Love it. I actually have this problem with 2 outdoor spigots and wasn't looking for this video but it found me, so now, I'm going to fix them cheap.
Glad you found the channel. Best of luck, I hope it fixes your issue.
Same! I have to keep a bucket under the spigot to catch the leak. Would much rather just fix it. And now I know where to start. "It's just parts." Love that! Nice video, thank you!
Finally , someone goes to the store and buys the correct replacement part instead of making an o ring out of the elastic waistband on some old jockey shorts .
Haha 😂
Ohhh, I never thought about making one. Thanks for the idea!
Great video. Remember to turn on the main water slowly, you don’t a rush of city pressure water hitting your fixtures.
That’s probably a really good suggestion that I never even considered. Thanks for watching
thank you for sharing this repair, its nice to see others sharing the experience they have and that simple things can be fixed. Its not always this simple but it is worth a shot. (Especially if you can isolate the valve)
Thanks, my goal is to create a community where we can share and discuss fixes around the home to hopefully save everyone a little time and money.
@@JaysPlace2468 as another YTer be careful in the coment section as you grow you will find more and more discouraging comments. Dont lt them get you down. If you ever want to chat feel free to email me.
@@HighPeaksHome I appreciate that. I'm already seeing some of that with this video.
Awesome that you put the link to this video in your vacuum breaker vid (thank you!). THIS vid addresses my problem. Praying I don't break the screw because I'm not sure I trust myself with a blowtorch next to vinyl siding, but that's me. I appreciate your posts.
Glad you found what you needed. You can remove the stem for blow torching and then put it back in if needed. Thanks for watching!
I put anti-seize lube on screws and bolts where I want to prevent corrosion. I also put it all over myself!
Messy but effective.
I’ve started wearing gloves whenever I use anything like that because I always make a mess too. Glad to know I’m not the only one. In hindsight I would have coated the parts but it’s hard to take it all back apart again when you’re done and realize you forgot. Thanks for adding to the conversation!
@@JaysPlace2468
I usually get it all over me when I'm working on the suspension under the car. It starts neatly on the bolts, but after fighting, squirming, it's on my face, arms, legs.
But, BOY, it sure does WORK!. LOL
Good job! My approach on our 40 year old house is more ambitious. We live in hard freeze territory, so all the faucets sold here are long reach things that shut off the water several inches behind the wall, in the crawl space. Not many will have both the climate and the ready access to the pipe, but I do. I chose a quarter turn valve and replaced the entire valve. Nice!
There is a lot of territory between these two extremes. For anybody who doesn't want to stir up the evil spirits that inhabit all plumbing, and those who appreciate ease and low cost, your approach is the way to go.
Thanks, I appreciate you man
Thank you.
I never messed with this kind of a faucet before and I thought I was going to have to replace the whole guts of this thing under the mobile home.
You’re welcome. Hope my video made things a little bit easier for you.
I have also been told you should lube the "o" ring and if you don't have the right oil, you can use a vegetable oil. It is used to just keep the 'O' ring from drying out.
You’re absolutely correct. In hind sight, I would have done that. I love that this little community I’m trying to build can help each other with tips like this in the comments of my video. Thanks so much for watching and adding to the conversation!
@@JaysPlace2468 glad to help, I learned somewhat the hard way, when I was replacing a "o" ring on my water filter, coming from the lake. I ended up having to replace it earlier then expected cause the ring failed. Keep up the great video's
I always use silicone grease on o-rings. Thanks for mentioning the lubrication.
Nice job. Appreciate showing the gufaw, done that too many times myself forgetting one simple step.
Thanks, definitely not my first mistake, won’t be my last but the point is that I was able to get it done and so can most homeowners.
Good going keeping it simple. I've always had to deal with old plumbing. On my repairs, whenever possible I replace the screws and nuts with stainless. The brass pieces invariably corrode and chip or break.
Thanks, my dad always says “it’s just parts” and that made taking things apart less intimidating for me. Take it apart, replace the broken pieces and move on to the next project. Except when the screw snaps off and the project takes you twice as long 😆At least I didn’t have to pay a plumber for a simple fix!
Missing is tne use of silicone grease, the all purpose DIY plumbers friend. For a few cents per job It will simultaneously lubricate threads, o-rings and washers, deter corrosion, and resist abrasion degradation from iron and minerals binding onto parts when not in use.
Great tip, I’ll have to look into this. My goal for this channel is to create a community where DIYers can learn and share their home maintenance experiences. I appreciate you watching and taking the time to add to the conversation!
You are absolutely correct! It will add years to some of those parts in contact with the water !
Said like a true infomercial lol
Correction. DIY means just that with out the plumber attached. You’re not a plumber ever without a journeyman card just to be very clear.
We have a similar faucet with the same problem at work, thanks, now I can tell them how we fix it👍I think we have similar here at home so very useful information and probably just pick up a couple of rebuild kits. These faucets are different from what I usually deal with so haven't totally tore one down yet.
Glad I could help. My goal is to build a community of people that can share their experiences with projects like this and we can all learn from each other. Thanks for watching!
Good job ! This is exactly same issue of mine.
Thanks for watching
Nice work on that and thank you for the tip. (Those are nice hose frost free bibs). Thank you for making & posting this video.
Thank you for the kind words and for watching my video. My goal is to create a community where people can learn and share their experiences in home maintenance. My videos are an entry into the conversation!
I give you credit for not editing out the minor oops at the beginning.
Thanks, my goal for the channel is for people to share their experiences in maintaining their home and let’s be honest, we all have moments like that.
Plumber here. It is packing, not a packing nut. The packing nut is the plastic piece you screw in to compress the packing. Also, you should have greased the o-ring with silicone or heat proof grease and flushed the faucet before reassembling.
Thanks for weighing in. I have since learned that I used the wrong terminology and I totally forgot to grease the o-ring. It’s funny when you add filming for RUclips into the mix, especially when you’re first starting, you forget things, the project takes twice as long and even if you do it perfect, you’re still subject to criticism once you post it. I’m happy to have a plumber add to the conversation. I’m trying to build a community where homeowners can share their experiences and knowledge as we all help each other out but I’m just a DIYer that isn’t afraid to try to figure it out. There are certainly projects where I wouldn’t hesitate to call in a pro. Thanks for watching!
Cool. Thanks. We all have shut offs on our outdoor faucets. Maybe that's a northern thing.
Awesome video!
Thank you much!
not meaning to be overly picky, but with no hose connected to the spigot there's no backpressure, which in my experience is a part of why there was a leak in the first place. The rest of the video was excellent, and hopefully will do the trick for my two 25 year-old spigots.
Hi Thanks for your input. This spigot has leaked whenever I turn it on for years so the o-ring and packing were definitely worn out. I just installed a hose reel this year and I only turn it on when the hose is in use and I relieve the pressure afterwards. You are definitely right that leaving it on could cause back pressure that could wear parts early. I just wish I had remembered to drain it before I started disassembling the handle. 😁
I’m not a plumber, but I disagree with R54. When you shut off the main, your plumbing system is still pressurized by almost the municipal pressure of 40+ psi (70 psi in my neighborhood). Thus, when you open any faucet or spigot, you’ll see water being forced out at municipal pressure but dropping quickly as there is no incoming pressure with the main valve closed. By that time, you’ll have a pint or 2 of water coming out with another pint to gallon still in the pipes.
@@tonymanero5544 I think what rtd54 is saying is that the leak was not definitely proven to be corrected. Prior to the repair, the faucet leaks and the hose is attached.With the hose attached, even with the hose end nozzle open, there is some back pressure caused by the volume of water in the hose. After the repair, we don't see the faucet operate without the added back pressure of the hose.
Basic physics and poperties of materials . The water in the hose is under pressure when the main is connected. The hose is an elastic, material, and stretches to increase in volume (like a balloon does when filled with air) when it is connected to the mains and water isn't allowed to flow freely. Shutting off the faucet traps that water under pressure in the hose. Wheter you open the nozzle or detach the hose at the faucet the effect is the same. The hose will contract to its resting volume and squeeze out the water- just like a filled balloon does when you release it.
@@psdaengr911 Your second to last sentence should include the phrase "or a leak in the hose bib'. Your last sentence assumes a leak in the system which reduces pressure and allows the hose to constrict. In a perfect system. after closing the faucet, the pressure is the same on both sides of the closed valve.
Are all/most water spigots the same? Like if I just go to the hardware store and buy the same pcs, are they most likely going to fit? Or should I bring the plastic pc and O ring in when buying the new stuff?
There are different styles. You’re best off bringing the parts to the store and sizing the replacement. If it’s the same Mansfield style as mine, it should be the same parts but best off making sure
yeah i found that out about plastic parts breaking when i put my radiator drain plug back on lol
I also tend to learn these things the hard way. 😂
@@JaysPlace2468 definitely makes it easier for future times and makes us a better teacher. thank you for that video. I'm a new homeowner so this helps
You saved me some money
Thanks for watching!
Mine looks like this but has no packing nut assembly? Is a metal handle with a graphene seal
I’ve only seen these Mansfield style spigots with plastic handles. Could it be a different brand?
I have the same hose spigot. Mine doesnt leak (yet) but has a loud squeak when i turn it on and off, can i just take the knob apart and spray wd40 in there? Will that fix the squeak?
I can’t be certain but I think a lot of the squeaks on faucets like this come from the back of the stem. If I was trying to fix a squeak, I think that is where I would start. I’d shut off the water, take it apart as I did in the video and maybe lubricate the threads on the back with some anti-seize lubricant. I’m not a plumber but I know we have a few plumbers in the comments. Maybe one of them might weigh in.
How did you remove the other half of the broken screw?
I heated it up with a torch. The contrasting metals expand at different rates allowing me to grab the end with pliers while it was hot and twist it out.
What is the deal with your faucet dripping once you turned the water valve back on once you fixed it at the end of the video?
Do you mean the drips out of the faucet opening? I actually had an issue with the video when I recorded it the first time so I had to record myself turning it on again. The opening in the faucet was still wet from the first time and there were a couple drops of water. I never even noticed it when I edited the video. Good eye! 👀 I can tell you that 7 months later and using this spigot to wash my car and water the lawn and garden, it’s no longer leaking at all.
Does a quarter turn ball valve not work where you live?
It’s got to be a frost free valve up here or the pipes freeze.
You should turn off your electric waterheater or close the valves to it before draining your lines to prevent any chance of the siphon draining the waterheater and burning out the elements.
Thanks for adding to the conversation. Is this something I’d need to be concerned about with a gas boiler where the hot water tank is basically just a holding tank?
@@JaysPlace2468 I would shut the valves or turn off the gas to prevent the flue from overheating if the tank should siphon. I loved your video. Thanks for the great content!!
Actually a boiler has over 100,000 btus and doesn't qualify as a water heater. They have a different set of safety parameters.
How did you know about the packing nut?
I actually had the terminology wrong. The “gasket” that I replaced is just called packing and I had to look it up online then I sized it up at the store by bringing in the parts I had.
Where did you buy the replacement parts?
A combination of Amazon and Ace Hardware. I think I linked to amazon for some in the description if you’re having trouble finding them locally.
@@JaysPlace2468 thank you!
Does this apply only to that brand of faucet?
This applies to this style of spigot, often called the Mansfield style, but there are other styles that are similar and you could apply this logic to. My best advice would be to find a tutorial on RUclips with one that looks like yours.
Thanks. I have been buying the overpriced repair kits. Now I can just buy the part directly!
Sometimes the kits are nice, sometimes they are more than you need. Thanks for watching
The kit may be best for very old faucets. The nylon gets brittle and can crack. This way you're replacing the packing, the nylon core, with washer affixed, the screw with a fresh brass one.
However if you have a sturdy core, a new o ring, packing or washer is fine. I just fixed a 50YO bathroom setvwith a nylon core that came loose with $1 of parts.
The other bath/shower was 75YO and I patched it with new washers and o rings + lube...however the all copper core and seat is worn out on the Hot side, so even a new core (if I could find one to fit) won't help much. That needs a full replacement bath assembly. Out comes the cutters and torch.
I think you put 5 packing washers in. They're only 1/4 in thick! You get 5 in a pack.
I have two spigots with this problem so I expect to pay $4. Thanks. Good one.
If your hardware store sells the packing and o-ring for 99 cents each like mine does and that’s all it is, tax might put you a little over the $4 but I can’t control that. Good luck, thanks for watching.
@@JaysPlace2468 your title appealed to my inner Scotsman.
That bolt/screw head was going to break off regardless of how much lubricant you attempted to spray due its age and the location of the leak. Be thankful it was a combination hex head rather than an old slotted panhead screw affixing the handle to the stem.
I think you are right. It was very weak right at the base of the head. I’m just glad I was able to heat it and grip the end to get it out so I didn’t have to replace the stem or the whole silcock.
Trying to get mine out and am afraid the same thing will happen because it is STUCK!
@@leeannegibbs2887 You could try using a baking soda paste and vinegar to breakdown any buildup on, around, and behind the head which should give you a clean bite while also penetrating into the threads.
I have the same problem with a rusted on screw. No hex head to use a socket, only a slotted head. Used a lot of penetrating oil but won't come off. I'm afraid using a torch will melt the plastic. I may try to drill it out and use a screw extractor but if unsuccessful I may have to go with the expensive option and replace the whole assembly. What is the thread size of that screw? Any other advice, (from anybody)?
I'm not sure about the thread size but if it is the same style as the one in my video, you can buy the replacement handle and screw on Amazon. amzn.to/43L6Ldc If I was in your situation, I'd probably intentionally and gently break the plastic handle off and that will give you a good place to grip the screw with a pair of vice grips. From there, I'd heat it with a torch. The screw and stem are different materials and will expand at different rates. This will allow you to twist it out with the vice grips. Be careful, you don't want to start a fire or melt your siding or break the stem but if it was me, I'd attempt this knowing that the replacement handle and screw are around $11 and the replacing the whole hose bib is a much bigger job and 2-3x the cost. Don't buy the handle and screw until you get the old one out, that way you don't have to bother returning it or wasting your money if the ultimate fix is replacing the hose bib. Good luck, thanks for watching and contributing to the conversation. Let us all know how it works out.
@@JaysPlace2468 Thanks for the advice. My handle is metal so not easy to break it off. I haven't attempted to drill it out yet since it is so low to the ground it is awkward getting the drill straight. I haven't given up yet!
Thanks
You’re welcome
LESSON LEARNED: If it ain't broken, don't fix it. (doesn't leak when shut off, it's good!!!.. don't mess)
Yeah, but it was leaking every time I watered the lawn or washed the car and my water bill was creeping up with all the wasted water. This way it’s fixed now and didn’t cost me much to do it.
The part on the top of my faucet is leaking. I pressed on it and it stopped. Do you have a video for that problem?
Something like this? ruclips.net/video/7vG-oBmSi3Y/видео.html if it’s the vacuum breaker in there, it could be getting stuck and tapping on it temporarily frees it up or it could be starting to fail.
Mine white plastic assembly won't come off and its plastic disintegrated:(
You can replace that white part if you can get it off. They make a kit with all of these parts combined. It's a little more than $2 but you'll get the packing and o-ring too. I hope you're able to get it fixed. amzn.to/3WIRAPt
@@JaysPlace2468 yeah. But it is not coming off. I simply couldn't unscrew it. Taking service of a handy man now cost lot more than $2. :)
@@Dua1512 I’m really sorry to hear that. That’s the opposite of what I was trying to accomplish with this video. I hope it all worked out in the end.
Have the same problem. How did you end up remedying it?
@@rscottdebruin1147 Change the whole spigot. Paying handyman to do that for me :)
Don’t you need to reconnect the hose with a nozzle in the closed position and turn on the water to know if you stopped the leaking?
Yes, I was still getting used to filming things when I made that video and forgot to get that footage. I did cap it in the next video I did which shows it doesn’t leak. If you’re interested it’s right here. ruclips.net/video/7vG-oBmSi3Y/видео.html I’m just trying to get a little better with each video and learning as I go. Thanks for watching.
Mine leaks out the top, is there a fox for that?
I’m not sure what you mean by out of the top.
@@JaysPlace2468 the plastic top piece not the bottom where the hose connects
Take a look at this video to see if it answers your questions about what’s in there and how to replace it. ruclips.net/video/7vG-oBmSi3Y/видео.html Best of luck and thanks for watching
if you use faucet grease on the rubber parts- they will 'seat in' better & that will help them last longer. the same reason tire shops put soap on the bead of tires before putting them on a rim.
Yes, this is a good tip that I should have implemented. Thanks for watching and adding to the conversation.
Ok, but how did you remove the broken screw? I really wanted to see that part!
Sorry, I was very new to RUclips when I made this video and forgot to record that part. I answered that question in the pinned comment. I basically used some WD40 and I heated it with a blow torch. The two different metals expand at different rates. This allowed me to grab the end with vice grips and twist it out.
@@JaysPlace2468 I tried getting my screw out and the head just disintegrated. Is it a lost cause now? Or maybe I can drill it out?
@@JohnRizzo-you drill it and retap if it broke off flush with the threads. The handle screw is not a high torque critical part. It just needs to keep the handle from falling off.
If you remove the core (nylon piece he is showing) you should be able to get vice grips on the broken head stud. If it doesn't disintegrate too..spin it out that way.
HOWEVER lubricate it first with real penetrating oil like PB blaster. WD 40 is a water displacement film oil that sorta works as a penetrating oil.
@@STho205 Thanks! I'll give it a shot. Doesn't sound too bad :)
I repair these when I can but always replace with a Woodford if they can’t be repaired.
Dumb question - what does the screw on the knob go into?
No such thing as a dumb question, just something you haven’t learned yet. The screw threads into the end of the faucet stem. Its main purpose is to prevent the handle from falling off. It doesn’t actually have to be tight enough to support the torque of the handle turning. The handle has a square opening that goes around the squared end of the stem and that supports the turning.
Mine,the water barely comes out. No pressure. Think it's connected to kitchen, cause same issues, no pressure ,rest of house is fine. Any help?
That’s a tough thing to troubleshoot from a distance but I would guess your kitchen and spigot may be on a different zone than the rest of the house and is either clogged or partially shut off. Has it always been like that or did it just start happening recently? If it started recently, I always try to think about what might have changed in that time frame. Did you have some other type of work done and maybe someone adjusted a valve?
@@JaysPlace2468 a few months ago,outdoor faucet and kitchen same time. Where is the valve to check? Under the sink? They are definitely next to each other
You’d have to follow the pipes back. I can’t really troubleshoot from here.
I have these on my house and they squeak so bad. I have hit them with silicone spray, WD-40, etc. and nothing works. Is it the packing nut? Not a big deal just drives me nuts like nails across chalk board when I use hoses.
Cheers
Mine did the same. It stopped after I made this fix but I’m not sure what change fixed it. I wouldn’t think the packing would affect it. Maybe it was just taking things apart and putting them back together but I think it could have been the rusty screw that i replaced
@@JaysPlace2468 I will take mine apart and clean everything and replace what is bad and see if that makes a difference. LOL I noticed the squeak in the beginning of your video and then at the end it was gone so I wanted to check and see if it was a specific item. Worst case I will drop a couple bucks and do what you did and see if that works.
Thanks for feedback, cheers!
Let me know if it works
Those are called cloth-inserted packing for the purists out there. If the packing hasn't dissolved these can sometimes be fixed by carefully tightening the packing nut. Stores also sell string packing if you can't source the ideal packing
Thanks for adding to the conversation. I hadn’t seen that type of packing before but it has worked well. Now I know what to call it.
String packing was the go to for bonnet faucets (the traditional faucet on the Monopoly Board) as there used to be all shapes of bonnets under the handle (indoor and outdoor faucets). Today you can get a rubber or fiber bonnet packing nut shaped like a dome.
Packing string (paying string) is a good thing to have around if you have a pre 1950s house.
Was hoping you were gonna test it under pressure.
Downfall of being a new RUclipsr. I actually cap it and turn it on in my next video that I filmed right after this fix. If you care to see it, here’s a link. ruclips.net/video/7vG-oBmSi3Y/видео.html
ANY time you take apart a plumbing fixture, replace ALL rubber parts. dont question it, just replace it. they are cheap and universal in almost all cases.
Good advice! Thanks for adding to the conversation.
@@JaysPlace2468 as a plumber, I like to watch videos like yours, to see what homeowners that arent plumbers do when they fix things. Teaches me a lot of cheaper tricks and fixes that I would normally not do. Like this, I would have bought the repair kit for that particular frost free silcock and rebuilt it at a higher cost, but you showed a great way to save some money with great results. Good stuff
Well thank you so much. I love hearing from trades people in the comments. It helps me learn as well. There are a lot of jobs where I’d just hire a plumber but I like to attempt to fix some of the simpler things. There is some real satisfaction in fixing something like this yourself as I’m sure you’re aware. If my experiences help someone else fix theirs or learn what not to do, I’ve succeeded.
Wd40 is not a penetrating oil. Spray PB blast or similar type spray specific for penetrating.
Thanks for the advice. In this particular circumstance, it wouldn’t have mattered what I sprayed, that screw head was going to snap.
No O-ring lube?
Totally forgot and I wasn’t going to bother to take it apart after I got it back together. It’s funny when you add filming into the mix, especially at first, you forget things, the project takes twice as long and even if you get it perfect, you’ll get someone who does it differently. I’m learning as I go and hopefully I get a little better with each video. Thanks for watching!
remember when you turn water back on to turn your faucets inside on or you will get air in your water lines . The thus when your turn on your faucets is annoying and can cause damage to your washers in your faucets . If you have a well this is a good time to back flush the pressure tank and also either way a great time to drain water heater of sediment
I usually turn on the one farthest from the shutoff very slowly to refill the lines. So many things to do to maintain a house. Thanks for your input and thanks for watching!
Modern faucets have ceramic lined mixer cartridges, and I think opening one of those faucets to fill the plumb pipes and get rid of air is fairly safe. But my municipal pressure is 70 psi.
Lsksl
Good luck to the home owner on repairing hose bibs. Product specific typically and it will leak 9 out of ten times. Is this guy a journeyman plumber? Good luck. Care with info like this for he isn’t mentioning that this is one type of bib with multiple repair parts that are pretty much all different.
There are certainly different types of hose bibs. This is one of the more common types. If yours looks like this, it is a project that is within reach for most DIYers. You definitely have to be prepared for different outcomes and things that could go wrong but this can be a very simple affordable fix. I’m not claiming this is a one size fits all fix, just showing people one possible solution. I’d always advise people to call in a professional if you’re not comfortable. Thanks for watching!
This is exactly how my repairs go😂
Haha, love it. Relatable experiences are what connect us all. Thanks for watching and sharing in my agony 😂
great
Thanks for watching!
You should make a video teaching others how to make a video with necessary info. Including video of the part number/name tag at the store is crucial.
That sounds like a whole new RUclips channel. 😂 Glad you found it informative.
If the packing nut was totally disintegrated, how did you know the new one was different?
Did you skip something in the video??
I saw it on the Prier youtube video and there were a few little pieces that flushed out on to my driveway. None of them had any of the fabric laced into them. I also saw the part in the replacement kit which I didn’t end up buying because I could get just the 2 parts I needed cheaper on their own. Thanks for watching!
At a certain point, why not just replace the whole thing?
You’re right, it’s not a very hard job to replace the whole thing. For me, this leads to a sheetrocked basement ceiling and I’d have to locate the pipe and cut a hole in the ceiling to access it. The few bucks I spent on this was my preferred option at this point. For some, it may make more sense to change but it’s definitely cheaper to repair.
I recommend 200 foot-pounds of torque.
Seems excessive 😂
Don’t feel bad,we all do it lol
Good old Mansfield
A lot of people don’t love them but they’ve worked ok for me.
I few hours later and a couple trips to the hardware store? Not sure if that’s considered a 2 dollar fix, at least not very efficient. Great if that works for you but not sure if you should be broadcasting your plumbing experience.
Most plumbers are going to charge at least $100 just to show up. I hope I’ve showed that this fix is within reach for a lot of people and they can probably save some money if they are willing to do the work themselves. Thanks for watching!
Put hose back on spigot , with pressure. Will probably leak from handle again.
That was a RUclips rookie mistake. I did cap the spigot and turn it back on in my next video but forgot to include that clip here. It hasn’t leaked since the fix. You can check it out about 26 seconds into this video if you’d like. ruclips.net/video/7vG-oBmSi3Y/видео.html
Sorry, I don't understand what you're saying? Sounds like when you use the hose it will leak again. That can't be right.
My jockey shorts disintegrate before any other use for them!
What does this even mean?
every time I use the water hose I turn off the water first, and drain the hose.
I’d love to say I remember to do that every time but sometimes I don’t even remember to shut it off. 😂
That’s how it really goes down.. rusted, stubborn and messy
Usually. At least this way people can see what they could encounter when fixing it themselves. Sounds like you have a lot of experience fixing things around the house. A one hour project usually takes two. 😂
I’m on day 3 of fixing this exact same faucet you did.. spraying it with PB blast and heating the screw with the hope it releases kindly.. I think tomorrow is the day I go cave man at it😂
@@ibrahimkhoury8448 let me know how it works out. Heat was a must for me in getting it loose.
I can report success on day 3, the screw finally turned and averted cave man approach.. Heat and Pb blast got it to loosen…From that point on it was straight forward like you show on your video, I did replace all the parts that were in the kit. I was under pressure to fix it because we were leaving the next day for a 10 day vacation and I needed to get the leak under control so that I can keep the faucet open for the garden drip system. Much appreciate the video you did… we just need that bit of encouragement sometimes when things get tight :-)
Wd-40 is not a penetrating lubricant fyi!
Yeah, it didn’t matter what I sprayed on there, that screw was breaking off. Thanks for adding to the conversation maybe it helps someone reading the comments. Is there a penetrating lubricant that you prefer?
you need some o-ring lube on that prior to re-assembly
Yes, that is something I should have done. You live and you learn. Thanks for watching and thanks for adding to the conversation.
Disconnect the hose first.
Some of us learn the hard way 😂
Hi, failure to drain the hose AFTER he cloed the valve means he does not have to take his daily shower today!!!
Haha, I was able to laugh at myself after. I guess that’s a good thing!
That’s not a packing NUT . its packing material the plastic piece is acting as packing NUT. Folks don’t try that unless your ready to replace the faucet. You’ll likely wind up with a big mess and your water off till plumber arrives $450 . Don’t take advice from someone who’s trying it 1st time themself looking for clicks .
I’d certainly never suggest that anyone try something that they aren’t comfortable doing and I’ve definitely called in plumbers over the years to do something that is over my head. I may have messed up some terminology and faced some unexpected steps but this was a relatively simple rebuild that solved my problem and I wanted to share my experience with other homeowners who may be in a similar situation.
My intent here on RUclips is to build a community where people can help each other by sharing their experiences in maintaining their home and a lot of people have chimed in and shared things I missed or could do better next time. That’s what I’m here for, not the clicks.
I’m not saying you do this but people don’t have a problem spending money at the coffee shop, liquor store or going out for dinner. When it comes to anything to do with water and the house I don’t mind spending the money to get good parts. When it comes to the house I don’t go for the cheap parts to save a buck and have trouble down the line
I’d always recommend calling in a pro if you’re not comfortable or you have the extra money to do so. This was a project that I felt I could tackle and my fix is holding up so far. Thanks for adding to the conversation. I appreciate your perspective.
@@JaysPlace2468 I’m sure it works fine. When it comes to water I always seem to have issues with it leaking and not catching it in time and having water damage
I can relate. As you can see in the video, things didn’t go exactly as planned. Plumbing is probably my least favorite DIY task.
Appreciate the video but WD40 to penetrate and loosen it up lol. Good job though.
It didn’t really matter what I used, that screw head was rusted and going to break. I should have used a penetrating lubricant. Thanks for watching
I'm still trying to find wd40 under 2 bucks.
Haha 😂 I definitely made the assumption that most homeowners would have WD40 and a few tools lying around. Maybe I should change the title to “Try this 2 dollar plus the price of WD40 fix” Doesn’t sound as catchy does it? 😂
@@JaysPlace2468 I was joking I have a few cans. I didn't even need to fix mine. I just liked your fancy thumbnail and title and watched it. I'll come back if I ever need to fix mine.
Those Prier spigots are POS. I have two on my new house and their design sucks. It loosens the plastic nut if you turn it off just a little too hard because of reverse threads. I Much prefer Woodford spigots and will replace mine whenever I get the chance.
You’re the second person I’ve heard mention the Woodford spigots. If mine ever get to the point of needing to replace them, I’m going to check those out. Thanks for the tip, I appreciate it.
Let's see what it looks like when there's back pressure if you would have took the hose off you wouldn't have leaked in the first place LOL
I’ve had a few people comment on that and in hindsight, I would’ve shown that better. That being said, if it’s leaking with a hose on it, that’s a problem that I needed to fix. In my next video that I filmed right after this one, I capped the spigot and turned on the water and the leak was fixed. I should have included that footage here. Take a look if you want to see what I mean. It’s a short video. Thanks for watching and commenting!
ruclips.net/video/7vG-oBmSi3Y/видео.html
Price after current inflation: 17.95.
Haha, you’re not too far off. Thanks for watching
The hose bibb is about $10. That looks too old to rebuild.
Honest question: where are you getting a frost free Mansfield style hose bib for $10. They are at least $35-$40 everywhere I’ve looked. My rebuild is holding up pretty well.
It’s just packing, not a packing nut.
I’ve been saying wrong all these years. That’s nuts. Thanks for the correction!
2 dollars in parts 20 dollars nf fuel ..2 days without water to find parts..
divorce 200,000
Hmm, that’s not how it went for me. The hardware store is within walking distance, had both of the pieces I needed and the wife was appreciative of the fact that I fixed it and we didn’t have to call a plumber. That being said, I’ve definitely had projects like you mention 😂
It's disgusting that they made the bonnet nut out of plastic instead of brass. The screw in the handle should also be brass with some anti seize on it.
I know I’d rather pay a bit more for something that lasts but it seems like a lot of products are going cheap and replaceable
that is NOT a 'packing nut'. it is just called packing.
Thanks, someone else set me straight earlier. I’ve been saying it wrong for a while. 😄
If you don't want to break the screw he should have used the whole can of WD-40 instead of half the can.
Thanks for the tip. I definitely used more than you saw on the video but I guess I still didn’t use enough. The screw was VERY rusty! Thanks for watching
i have to replace my guts every year...
Oh wow, have you tried the packing that is reinforced with stitching? That may last a little longer for you.
I’ll check for that packing, I usually end up replacing everything inside hopefully this solves my yearly task
Well water?
Nope, city water
@@teaglet1 Flint, Michigan?
When you initially showed that the faucet leaked when turned on, there was something restricting the water from flowing out the other end of the hose.
It looked like a spray nozzle, and it appeared there was a hose reel located higher than the faucet, so gravity working against u too.
Path of Least Resistance:
Obviously, water is going to flow out the larger opening at the end of the hose before its going to come out the the tiny leak in the bonnet or valve body.
After you shut off the main & still got sprayed when taking the faucet apart, it was because the hose was still pressured up. It COULDN'T drain or depressure because of whatever was on the other end of the hose.
You got wet because the water went the first place it COULD go, once the faucet was apart.
Hence, your "Tip," which was drain the line or drain the hose.
How about, "Fully open the sprayer nozzle to drain the hose" or "Drain and Remove the hose?"
You never mention it, but the hose HAS MAGICALLY DISSAPPEARED and is GONE when you start putting the new parts on.
You turned the faucet back on after you were done, but the viewer has no way of knowing whether the repair was legitimately successful or not.
With the hose gone, there's ZERO pressure, so I guess we'll never really know.
Because credibility kind of disappeared along with the disappearing hose & closed sprayer nozzle u never mentioned removing.
I fully understand what you are saying. The hose disappeared because it was in my way but I can guarantee you that my repair fixed the leak because I capped the spigot and turned it on in my next video which I did right after this one. You can take a look at that video if you’d like. It’s a short one.
ruclips.net/video/7vG-oBmSi3Y/видео.html
I assure you, I’m not trying to fool anyone and the fix is credible. Thanks for watching!
@@JaysPlace2468 I'm sorry for being harsh. Transparency is everything on YT.
@@evelynmahoney3569 I appreciate your constructive criticism. I’m still learning how to film and edit my videos and just trying to get 1% better every time. My goal is to create a community where we can share home maintenance projects and discuss the best practices to help make things easier for the everyday person trying to maintain the place they live.
Rip it out and install a new one. Dont waste your time
I certainly could have gone that route but there is a big difference between a $50 hose bib and $2 worth of gaskets. This also goes into a basement with a sheet rocked ceiling and limited access so this was a good solution for me. I might replace the whole thing out back at some point where I can access it better. Thanks for bringing up that option and thanks for watching!
@@JaysPlace2468 i have done this hundres of times. Get an access panel, cut the sheet rock replace the silcox. Install panel for the next time. They always break, unfortunately they are all junk.
Usually homeowner forgets to disconnect hose in winter and splits(at least in my location). I’ve replace hundreds over 30 years. This probably just needed the packing nut snugged up about 1/4 turn.
You could have bought a whole new spigot for about 10 dollars
I’d love to know where you’re finding those prices. Everything around me was $40-$75. Regardless of price, this was much easier because the spigot leads to a finished basement ceiling with no access so it would have been a chore to replace. Thanks for watching and chiming in and seriously, let me know where you’re finding it for $10 now a days.
@@JaysPlace2468 sure...I just replaced mine for 10.00 at home depot. Yes, it was one of the cheaper ones but it works just fine, no leaks
I’ve never seen a spigot like that in my life.
They are all over the north eastern US
Call a real plumber and pay the price. It’s cheaper than flooding your house.
That is certainly an option for some.
Well you are either a plumber trying to scare people away from DIY or you are rich. Either way, your opinion is less valuable than the brown stuff I flush down my toilet
Thanks. But DIYers will be frustrated by determining what replacement parts you’ll need. Look at the spigot manufacturer as a start of your Google research. And you will want to get a kit with the right parts, as with high gas prices because of Russia and Saudi Arabia collusion with Trump MAGA, you don’t want to make 2 trips for to your big box or hardware store.
I just hope my videos find someone that they can help and I’m hoping to form a community of people who can learn from each other’s experiences in maintaining a home. Thanks for watching.
I don't believe it cost $2
The o-ring was 99 cents and the packing was 99 cents. That’s $1.98 if I hadn’t broken the screw and decided to replace the whole handle.
Its more than 2$
The packing was 99 cents and the o-ring was 99 cents. If I hadn’t broken the screw and decided to replace the handle, it would have been $1.98 😃
The packing was 99 cents and the o-ring was 99 cents. If I hadn’t broken the screw and decided to replace the handle, it would have been $1.98 😃
Not where i live
This brand of valves are junk. All plastic crap.. I have replaced 2 in less than 10 years. I got an all metal replacement
They don’t make em like they used to. That’s for sure!
Manufactured homes are not just "parts" or it could be fixed by replacing the handle. That can't be done on manufactured homes. The "part" that needs to be replaced is about 16-18 inches and requires you to go under the house. More worthless informatikn
I wasn’t aware that the outdoor spigot was different on manufactured homes. It sounds like you are saying that the entire silcock has to be replaced or that you have a different style faucet. Sorry I couldn’t be of help.
Dude stick to real estate
Who said anything about real estate? I’m just sharing my experience in maintaining my home.
Nice video, but you should have re-connected the hose back to the spigot and then turn it on. Just for people to see that the pressure of the water didn't leak on the spigot.
Yeah, in hind sight, you’re right. I did cap the line and turn it on in my next video about the vacuum breaker which shows that it was fixed but these are the errors of a new RUclipsr. Thanks for watching and making a constructive suggestion!