Electro Eliminator | Soldering RC Battery & ESC Wiring - How Does It All Go Together?
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- Опубликовано: 21 ноя 2024
- Electric RC boat wiring, battery wire soldering, and a few more goodies along the way -
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Sorry, but I was so happy to see you get frustrated while soldering connectors. I end up yelling like I did 30 years ago when I started working on cars. There a fine art to soldering for sure
Scott one thing to note. With solid wire the electrical field flows around the wire. With stranded wire the electrical field runs through the wire. Most of the stranded wire is aluminum. Try using Rosen core aluminum solder. This will make a better conducive connection with less heat. You don't want to heat and break down the wire jacket. as far as separating the wire, try using some automotive plug wire insulator clips.
Oh I hadn't thought of using aluminum solder. Or more correctly, I didn't know that was a thing. But yes I'm familiar with how those little electrons prefer to travel, and even with stranded wire they continue to travel around the perimeter, but the beauty is there is more perimeter area upon which to run in stranded wire. This is what bothers me most greatly about soldering in general. Presumably they (those little electron buggers) travel only along the outside of the solder, which then effectively becomes a resistor. This then becomes heated as they get frustrated in their travels, only compounding the problem. So... What then is the best possible method of connection?
Trick to zip tie bags. Cut a slit down the middle of the bag shorter than the zipties. That way they can slide out and they're easy to pick out. My Dad thought me that one.
I like it!
Thank goodness for your video's. I has kept me from seeing / hearing some people talk. You know .. like politicians. No, seriously, your video's are informative, a little bit jovial, but those other people really suck. Keep it up. Thanks
Thanks David!
A small butane torch works best for soldering bullet connectors - especially for those big 6 to 8mm honkers. Thin gauge solder melts faster too. Love your channel!
Thanks George!
2:23 - Never thought of that, thanks! 👍
Just bought a second hand Aquacraft UL1 and make the mistake of taking it right on the water trusting the seller is ready to run. Lost the propeller as the flex shaft snapped right off the prop. Now binge watching your videos and damn, there's a lot to be done before getting wet.
You got this!
@@M5PerfHydros fixed everything that could be fixed without ordering parts, made a new rudder lever as the old one had the grub screw enlarged. New rudder pivot shaft made off SS 4mm, new esc and battery connectors. Waiting for the shafts, tubing and few more bits, can't wait to see it finished. Your videos helped a lot, and will help more I'm sure.
I think I'll be needing to see a video of that...
@@M5PerfHydros took a few snapshots during the rebiuld. She's now almost ready, just some epoxy to set on the rudder bottom plug and tomorrow will be baptised.
I'll upload the photos and share !
Link for the pictures - photos.app.goo.gl/o5KknebAvudHnrVx9
I use a little flux when solder my connections. Helps the solder stick.
You can wipe the solder iron tip on a wet paper towel or sponge before you solder, cleans it for a nice connection/heat transfer. Don't know if its easy to remove the liquid tape if you need to re-solder. I usually put a smaller diameter heat shrink wrap at the base of the wire, solder connector, slide shrink wrap back up to connector, then slip over a larger diameter shrink wrap over the 8mm connector. Then when you heat to shrink it, you don't have trouble getting the large diameter shrink wrap to shrink enough to grab the wire, it will grab the smaller size shrink wrap for a nice fit.
Get yourself or build yourself a “The Jigs Up” soldering tool. It will hold everything you are doing firmly. And like was said before...I used kester 60/40 and I take all wire but especially the heavy battery wired and work some flux into it really good before tinning and I also use some on the connector and tin that first with it before making the connection.
next time twist the wire in the opposite direction of the original twist. you want it to fray. work rosin flux into the wires into the original twist direction. it will then work into the core. make sure your solder joint is shiny . that's the way we did it on titan 2 missile wiring .
Interesting!
For soldering those large connectors, I use a heavy old-school soldering iron. It takes ages to warm up, but it has such a large heat capacity! It heats a big connector and those fat leads up in like 3 - 4 seconds. Boom, done!
Nice!
Believe it or not, Volts and current going to The motor are converted to 3 phase Alternating Current in the ESC. And by reversing 2 of the 3 wires, it reverses the tractive direction of the field windings changing the direction of the armature. Without changing any of the built in timing between the armature and field windings.
I prefer to believe it is magic! 🪄
Cool ideal I just straight solder the motor wires to the esc and avoid connections. I just make sure that the set up stays together
Wow that's commitment!
Over time those types of connectors get compressed. You'll see the gaps in the male end get more narrow. The connector relies on some spring force to keep a good connection. When they start getting compressed you get a loose connection causing arcing and heat in the connector. It's a good idea to periodically check the connector and use a thin flat bladed screw driver to open the gaps back up and provide that spring force to keep a good connection.
Excellent! Thank you
Good video Scott! Very helpful on how to connect everything up. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
You should always use silver bearing solder on your battery and motor leads as it has a much higher melting point than standard rosin core solder. I have seen some high amp applications melt the solder and stop a boat in the middle of a race!
Yup!
zip ties are a good solution for more permanent connections like motor-to-esc ... in models with a single battery pack I also make the wires different length.
I usually shorten the battery's negative and the esc's positive wire by 2x connector length and tape the battery's wires together ~ 1" behind the short wire's connector.
This way it's still easy to connect/disconnect them, but physically impossible to short the battery pack.
Love your channel. Rc Proplus have mechanically attached 7mm bullets 2x grub screws good for 230amp continuous.
Great tip, thank you!
Amigo para una correcta soldarua, siempre hay que poner un decapante.
I use a torch on heavy gauge wires. Works great!
If you dip the Wire into Liquid Flux, then solder it, this will created a VRY good connection, i do this on all my 12 Heli batteries..
Thanks!
@@M5PerfHydros No Problem Scott. I can also share the part number of the flux i am recommending if you want.
Use a separate Flux for tinning solder, plasti-dip (for tool handles) easier for the connectors.
same wire tie trick i use on spark plug wires
There you go!
I use bow string rosin from a music store or by the commercial liquid rosin, put your gun in the rosin to heat it up and dip the wire into the melted rosin then tin your wire add a small amount to the connector also, it will suck it up no problem. Cleans the wire, connector and gun, Good stuff trust me so much easier.
Interesting!
Amigo, para esas corrientes de 8S, siempre es mejor soldar los cables del motor y ESC directamente sin conectores, de esa forma evitaras tener menos resistencia y perdidas de tension por los contactos.
Sí, estoy de acuerdo, pero es demasiado difícil reemplazar piezas rápidamente durante una carrera.
Good thing it's HV. High current doesn't like right angles.
Because its DC current. Only switch red n black to reverse the yellow wire is command
Awesome video, can you tell me what motor/prop and esc you used in this project sir?
Love the video, thanks.
Heck I don't know... I'm really just a nitro and gas guy. This build was commissioned by Rattlesnake RC who provided all the parts. Bill is a super helpful guy, contact him here; www.allrc1.com
I use 60/40....
10 gage wire is hard to do. The wire is so big it takes all the heat away.
As stated below, a little flux will make the solder go all the way through the wire strands. Just be sure you DO NOT use flux for acid core solder, only flux for rosin core !
Thanks James!
Great Video. I was hoping you would talk about the cap bank on the ESC. Like the proper way of wiring it in . You've set up for series on the batteries. Does it matter Series vs Parallel on the cap bank on how it's wired or is it the same both ways?
I'm not an expert on the "Why" side of the capacitor question, but I do know a couple basic rules; Capacitors must be added in parallel and should be mounted fairly close to the ESC (within 1" - 2") on the two input wires only.
Cap banks are to survive 'ripple effect'. That's when the prop leaves the water and then bites back in the amp draw can serious spike. The capacitors cushion the blow. They are wired parallel with the batteries.
Flux Paste. It cleans and shines. Too much gun for me. Get yourself a temp controlled Ebay clone soldering station with various tips. Mine was $40.00 and Ive had it for years. Ive used it to make 100s of night kits for micro helis. Dark Matter Blades. Its a YI 939D purple base.
Thanks!
Be a tough joint
The better way is to machine copper sleeves for the wire to fit tightly into and the OD to fit as tight as you can into the connector. Solder all that up.
Yikes! That's commitment!
what size flex cable are you running please ?
I/4" flex to a 3/16" prop shaft
@@M5PerfHydros , thanks Scott , I can't find a collect that will go from 1/4' flex to 5mm shaft on the motor ?
Your motor has a 5mm shaft? Yeah I don't know what collet would work. Have you asked Bill at Rattlesnake RC? He's pretty sharp when it comes to electrics.
www.allrc1.com/
@@M5PerfHydros , yeh , what size shaft is your motor, Im pretty sure mine is the same as yours, and yes buying my stuff from Rattlesnake and shipping to Australia , nice work by the way
You coat inside of reciever with liquid electrical tape ?
No need, the receivers I use are waterproof!
OCD wright ?
Just a little!
Sorry for my ignorance, but what does the electro eliminator do?
It goes very, very, FAST!
@@M5PerfHydros Thanks for answering.
I have a speed master rudder when mounting the rudder bracket I used a square to align to the transom. Before drilling any holes i attached the rudder and it didn't look square to the bottom of the boat. I took the rudder off and noticed that the machined surface of the hinge for the rudder was thicker on one side causing the rudder to tip put of square. So should I use my angle finder to make the rudder 90° to the bottom of the boat?
Well that must have been pretty disappointing. An angle finder would probably work fine so long as the spine of the rudder is equal width top to bottom and you hold it carefully on that spine. Plan B would be to send it back to Speedmaster for replacement!
Ok thanks
Did all of you know that DC flows from neg to pos
Lol yea trailers with locked up wheels are funny cus 90% its their fault. Killer tips die electric grease is a freaking life saver use to use it to seal the air box on the jeep an the distributor. 😁 ive used grease before works for quick seal.
Bingo!
and prop size please
As per the rules where I race the prop size is limited to 57mm maximum diameter. This set-up can push a much larger prop but we're trying to keep these things down to a controllable speed
Bare legs underneath a soldering job ! Rather you than me chap ! If you’ve ever had molten solder on your skin you’ll know where I’m coming from !!
Been there, burned that!
I think youre not supposed to use dielectric grease between the electrical contacts, just around them.
There's plenty of debate about that, and it's easy to find logical arguments for all opinions! Best I can do is go with what works for me.... I've used dielectric grease in sensitive automotive connections for literally decades as a career auto tech (recently sold our shop and retired, thank goodness), often solving connection problems with it's application alone. I first found it used in the multi-pin engine control module connectors in all the OEM vehicles starting sometime in the late '80's or so. Pin corrosion was a super common problem prior (computers started showing up in cars around '79 or '80) but was greatly reduced with the introduction of dielectric grease. So... I use it faithfully in all connections on my boats, and haven't run a radio box for years with zero (knock on wood!) failures!
@@M5PerfHydros Point taken, Scott. Thanks for the videos and reply. I can see you certainly have a lot of experience with the hobby; sometimes whatever works is the best solution. You might see my point that putting a non-conducting grease between your metallic contacts may seem counterproductive, after all the pains you take to ensure optimal performance of your boat. May I ask....since you are adding the batteries in series, totaling over 30 Volts, what is the maximum voltage rating for your ESC and motor? Also how do you choose which electric motor to use? The Oxidene Marine website sells theirs for $150 and with ESC for $250. Are those reasonable prices? I was thinking of building a scratch nitro boat, but I have no knowledge about nitro/glow engines. Do you have plans for yours or similar hydroplane that I could download? Thanks again.
There are spec motors allowed for racing in R/C Unlimiteds here in the NW, and they don't cost nearly so much. If you're curious, contact Bill Brandt at Rattlesnake RC and he can hook you up with the full package at a much better deal. You'll find him at www.allrc1.com , and don't forget to tell him I sent you!
I prefer a mechanical hold as best as it can be then use the solder as a filler.
I have turned the connector and drill a hole more suitable to wire size, some times I have to twist the shit out of it to tighten as much as possible then solder it.
Grease 👍👍keep out humidity.
Transmitter, sure,,,, it transmits inputs to motor and servo😁😁
Just recreational for me, but also anal like you men! The zip tie cracked me up!
Such a relief to know I'm not the only one!
Nope you gotta separate the vibrations of parts no physical connections. Let the solder absorb it
Say what?!? That's a recipe for a cracked and failed solder joint
Bakers flux.