Honestly, I thought you had already removed the finger plate. You ask "what's wrong with this panel?" and my answer was, I can't tell, you're not showing it very well. So if you're going to ask a question, think about what the viewer has been told and can reasonably see, otherwise you'll seem kind of obtuse.
For those offering other suggestions... NEVER underwire a breaker. #12 on a 200 amp main is no good no matter how you slice it. Next item is that's NOT a breaker panel. That is a main disconnect. You can solve your problem (if you haven't done it already) by installing a small main panel right there. That would give you a compliant panel, with the interior cover PLUS place for a breaker to power your doorbell, and an outside outlet or two. The only changes would be to remove the bonding on the existing main panel and that will become a sub panel.
@@jeffostroff ... I may have missed something but "the builder" was 40+ years ago, right? I guess the point here is to make it right, but I do believe "right" can be to the originally intended code as a repair, without changing so many things they would call it a new service. (and new code)
@@rupe53 I would be nervous if the insurance company sent an inspector, because in the past we had to remove the outdoor main panel cover, and sand it down and paint it because it had rust. The insurance company made us send photos of the finished product.
He should have provided a little basic information in regard to the over heating/fire hazard risks involved with underwired breakers at the beginning. If anyone watching this video is not familiar and is tempted do their own electrical work, I highly recommend doing your research in regard to what you should be doing and why. Don't burn your house down, especially while you are in it.
Hey Jeff, could the reason the transformer have been installed close to the tap was to conform to NEC's 10 foot feeder tap rule? Since the conductors feed a transformer and possibly the transformer's overcurrent protection (fuses), the conductors would be considered feeders.
Yes, but they could have switched the breaker out to one that allows double tapping, or used a different lug type with multiple screw positions like the bus bars have. Either way, in my opinion, that transformer should have had it's own breaker if wired in that spot, because if the transformer fails as a short instead of an open circuit, it trips that main breaker and takes down the whole house power, right before you hit the save button on your Microsoft Word document for your PHD dissertation! LOL!
@@jeffostroff i am not 100 % sure but don't the code call for it to have its own beaker and be within the 10 feet of the main fuse box not the emergency disconnect
@@chaos1291975 ... just to avoid confusion, you may NOT use #12 or #14 wire connected to a main breaker... AND... that's not a breaker panel so no room for a smaller breaker. That is a disconnect panel... nothing else goes in there.
@@jeffostroff That malfunctioning transformer, with that wiring would never trip that breaker. It would just melt down and maybe catch fire, all the while being fed power.
Good education. After hooking up my kindle from my old doorbell to a down regulated 5v connection, the 240v doorbell connection makes me feel so inadequate .
Jeff, in general what you did here was safe and effective but there was one thing you said regarding your "safety precautions" that was not accurate. The gloves you were wearing to help protect from electrical shock, may be fine work gloves but they offer zero protection from a live circuit, no matter how incidental the contact. The only gloves to offer protection while working on a live circuit are a tested and certified pair of rubber electrical gloves (rated from class-00 (500 volts) to class-4 (36,000 volts) topped by a pair of leather over gloves for abrasion protection.
@@trentjohnson7246 Property owners don't have the money, and did not have the money to hire an electrician that will charge $1500 for this repair. But if you're volunteering to send them the $1500, they'll right on it. Also you are correct about the gloves, but a DIYer doesn't have the necessary gloves, and regular gloves will over some protection, some resistance, perhaps enough to save a life. Better than no gloves, so your statement about offering 0 protection is simply not true. I would not work on live terminals with the gloves I'm using, but surely it will cut down some of the electricity.
@@jeffostroff It is expensive to replace the electrical panel. I know from first-hand experience - and my former housemate was perhaps the worst professional electrician ever. Where I live the cost of the permit is $350. I ended up buying a Square D Homelite box at HD. Then I had to install two new ground rods, buy all the romex wiring, the copper ground wire, a new bus to install into the new box, the new weather head, all the new conduits, new Square D breakers including the GFCI breakers which are expensive, replace and add CO detectors & 10-year smoke detectors, replace all the outlet receptacles. The residential electrician bills at around $100 per hour. And that doesn't include all the trips I had to make to HD because my goofy housemate is rotten at planning. I ended up firing my housemate and hiring another guy who was way more organized (which in itself would make a good teaching video - ie, hiring a disorganized anybody will be a disaster waiting to happen). And let's not forget the cost of the tools - even my used DeWalt SDS max plus bits was over $200.
If it's hot and your hands are sweat soaked at all, get ready for some tingles! ;) The danger here isn't the Double Tap per say. The DANGER is that those thinner wires are unfused or unprotected. They have a very high chance of collateral damage if they short, since they are only 'protected' by the large MAIN breaker. They may be too thin to even trip the main. They could short, and cause heat that may not trip the large breaker. This could lead to more loss of insulation, more current, more heat and take out the hole box, and possible house. It is a safety hazard, not just a nuisance!
You can just get some sheet metal, sheers, drill bits, and file and manufacture a new cover yourself. and some spray paint to make it look nice if the colors don't match.
Another problem I saw with this wires that you pulled out were undersized for the current since it was connected directly to the 200 amp main breaker 🤩👍 I enjoyed watching your video 😎
i use a bunch of different tools, and lots of tool review videos, so yes I use lots of platforms. Also I just happen to have a cheap Ryobi tiny blower that I use. The Milwaukee M18 vac I got at Black Friday Sale, as well as the Craftsman tool set, waned to get them into the field and tested.
So, does this engineer have his license to perform electrical work too ? Did he properly torque the set screws ? Did the home inspector tell this guy the panel really should be replaced once it has become rusted ?
@@jeffostroff Depending on what the gloves are made of, they can actually be worse than bare hands. If the material melts in a scenario where you would have only got a slight jolt, you would now have melted polymer, or whatever, as a nice coat of molten lava over your skin!
Maybe you could help me. My water heater needs to be replaced. The estimate guy came out and turned off the WH 30amp Breaker and he left. Then my house started to get warm. Seems like the breaker is tied into my AC. Then a 2nd guy to give me an estimate and he said the new water heater only needed a 20 amp breaker and that I had to have it reduced from 30 to 20 I told him am AC was tied to the 30amp. He said the inspector would not pass inspection if he left the 30amp in. Now what should I do. I’m confused
I would get a licensed electrician to solve the problem first of why your AC is connected to water heater, it should not be. Next find owners manual to your water heater it tells you how much your breaker should be rated for, or maybe a sticker on the water heater has the info. If you have to reduce the breaker size, an electrician can do it in minutes, probably charge you $150.
Electric water heaters require a 240-volt dedicated circuit, which serves only the water heater and no other appliances or devices. The circuit wiring typically includes a 30-amp double-pole breaker and 10-2 non-metallic or MC cable.
Yes, unfortunately the sellers were once the buyers of this unit, they were naive and too trusting of the real estate agent at the time. I have a huge mistrust of most real estate agents, who will lie and do and say anything to get the sale to go through, then it all falls apart at inspection when their lies are revealed. Also they send in goons to make repairs who are unqualified and make things worse. One agent sent in someone to fix the kitchen GFCI outlet, and he left it cross wired, never checked it. Home inspector caught it instead.
Have found doorbell transformers in some pretty weird places....but this one is in the top 5 of “odd” places 😂 Also, like the saying.....can’t make sense of stupidity 👍🏻 Great Vid✌🏼 Forgot to add. I’ve taken model numbers etc... to my local Ace Hardware & Supply House before & they’ve both helped track down old “hard to find” parts for me. Just a thought, if having hard time.
Here’s my take. First. That is a main disconnect, not a breaker panel. Second not only are the load lines double tapped but whatever the load is has no current protection so over 200 amps could flow thru 12g conductors. Bad news. Also why would you use an all metal ratchet on those lugs? Why not use an insulated T handle? Also those lugs need to be torqued to spec when you re tighten them if you’re an “engineer”.
Yes, everything the builder did was wrong. Our friends had no money to hire an electrical contractor with all the right torque tools, so yes they got a repair that works, but academically is not to the code book crossing every T and dotting every I. They never asked to be dragged into this by an unscrupulous builder, but in the end this fix was needed to make the sale of the house go through. Maybe some day the new owners if they ever get flush with cash might want to call in a contractor to make the full repair, or maybe if they upgrade their service to higher AMPS, replace the entire box altogether. Another one people get stuck with all the time are Zinsco electric panels. Don't even get me started there.
Yes we have been doing that a few years too, now in fact I just bought a set of Ring Doorbells, which are wifi, and garage floodlights that go with it, and cameras. Will be doing a tool review on it soon.
Thinking should just replace that main disconnect looks like has had moisture in it, maybe provide one with extra branch breakers for the external outlet(s)
Yes in an ideal world I would definitely recommend that as well unfortunately they were under contract for sale and they didn't have a penny to even spend anymore something like this would probably run $1000
@@jeffostroff here in s. Florida i normally charge about $1800-$2200 to replace that. Permit, inspection, meter main disconnect, fittings, etc. Not a cheap option for sure.
You can double tap or more as long as wires is rated for amperage that breaker protecting circuit doesn't go more than rated for. Also taps should be pigtailed before going into load side of breakers.
@@jeffostroff if there is a pigtail then the defect is considered corrected and is no longer double tapped. If the circuit breaker isn't designed to hold two conductors, the conductors could come loose at some point in the future, even if they feel very tight today. Loose conductors can lead to overheating, arcing, and possibly a fire. But a pigtail is acceptable. If it wasn’t you wouldn’t be able to have several receptacles down the line. It’s all the same thing. The issue isn't about the load imposed on the circuit, it's about the physical connection.
Uhhhhh.You don't know how to read. The statement on the screen at 10:27 reads “There are insulated tools that can be used”. So why did you lie and ask “Why was there a large disclaimer suggesting that it was?”. we never said that it was an insulated tool in fact the only reason I was using that tool was because and you didn't pay attention earlier, we cut off the power to that side of it with the switch so there was no live voltage anywhere near where we were working at the bottom half of that electrical panel.
@@jeffostroff people on RUclips are so annoying and stupid. Good luck buddy it’s going to be long road dealing with these internet idiots that can’t comprehend a basic discussion or read. Smh.
Most is aluminum still. Electricians use a bonding solution and oxide inhibitor like Penetrox to allow for the expansion and contraction of the wire in the lugs of the meter and the main.
SOME breakers are specified that they can be double-tapped. THe practice of double tapping itself is not incorrect, but should only be done when the breaker or switch is made that way. This one is quite old, and I don't recall something in that vintage that was ever made to be double-tapped. This particular case, if it WAS made to be double tapped.....2nd wires tapped on there would need to be the same guage as the big ones.
great video. my home inspection book says that double taps may be accepted where the wire is a low-voltage transformer...like the doorbell. it would have to be accepted. now i feel confused. i'm a student trying to learn. thanks
how i have done old work doorbells i get a 2 gang box run my wire up to it cover the box with the bell body that way the transformer is right behind the bell and in a electrical box for easy access then run your bell wire to the door but i only do that on old work new work i put transformer by the panel but to be honest i haven't looked at the updated code for doorbell transformers for a long time so any input would be great and i have only done 2 in the last 15 years none in the last 10 lol wireless is a lifesaver on that one
Thanks for the video Jeff. You're a braver guy than I, daring to post electrical work to YT. 😁 Did someone end up fabricating an inner panel cover, or was total box replacement eventually necessary to satisfy the inspectors?
Not that I know of, to find on that old someone would likely have to make one. Sellers just told the buyers it was not on the panel when they bought the townhouse so there won't be one now.
@@jeffostroff It seems like when the home was sold before, the electrition was paid off to supply a certificate for the sale and did not do the job correctly .
@@coypatton3160 ... in the case of liability, the guy who makes the modification (or is the last to touch the job) winds up with the liability if there's a problem. Better to not touch it from that viewpoint. If some inspector or the bank insists something be corrected you can offer some $$ toward the repair (but not total replacement) and let the next guy worry about it.
Yes we installed a Ring Doorbell at our house. BUT it is still desirable to have that 24 VAC wired connection to the Ring, because if you go with their battery option, I heard they last only 3 months, even though the company claims it lasts a year. You have to buy extra batteries if you don't want a gap in coverage while your battery charges for 10 hours overnight.
@@jeffostroff the battery lasts 6 months to a year depending on activity and I’m sure that anyone could survive without a doorbell for a few hours every six months.
THANK YOU FOR SHARING; BUT YOU FORGOT TO TELL US HOW WE SUPPOSED TO CONNECT THE "PROVES" ( BLACK AND RED CABLES) FROM THE READER DETECTOR " TO THE MAIN BOX. 🥴. SHALOM.
How about one of those stick on door bells that work with a battery. Why go through all that hassle. Or a knocker on the door. Most people just knock on my door anyway. Remember the term ‘KISS’, I’m sure you have heard of it.
Probably whoever double-tapped that box was the one that never put the plate back on😏 if those wires shorted against anything it has no breaker protection except the full hundred amps of the main! That would really put on a nice light show 😃
Not every homeowner has these meters, which is why I showed the lower cost Voltalert. And besides your assessment is wrong. If there is electrical energy there it is 100% accurate, never seen it miss. Fluke does not make garbage electrical tools.
@@nf5416 True but you know many of them are going to do it anyway and they're not going to buy the type 0 gloves so the only thing we can do is protect them as much as we can
Every licensed master electrician I’ve even encountered has and uses a NCVT just to test for live wires. A multimeter is for specific readings. Sometimes you just need to know if a wire has potential or not doesn’t matter if it’s 120 or 240 volts, doesn’t matter the current draw.
Yes I was rushing in fighting the impending rain and to darkness at the same time 'cause this really came up on me out of nowhere from my friends house. I did not have all of the time that I usually like to take to switch lenses refocus zoom in on certain areas etc doing video production is a real pain in the neck
Unfortunately for the sellers, they are broke and don't have the $1500 an electrician would charge to replace that box plus all the other stuff they have to pay for to fix around the house first. It only costs maybe $30 for the finger plate. How about you send them the $1500 to hire the contractor to replace it?
@@jeffostroff yes that does present a problem. they are really racking him if they are charging 1500 to change that though! That sounds like way too much money
Smart meter. Dumb home owner. The transformer doesn't care about input voltage. It will just give you double the output voltage which will burn out the doorbell.
I appreciate you taking the time and sharing your thoughts. However, you open the door for professionals to point out additional problems. I think it is wise to recommend viewers to hire licensed contractors when it comes to life safety. The "inspector" missed a whole lot more than "double tap". You are working at the Main and should be identified as such. The underground utility (service lateral) is rated a minimum of 200 Amps. The over current protection inside of the dwelling are part of the sub-panels, not main panels. Some additional code violations without personally standing there to look at this installation. I should be able to see the following at the Main location: The NEC requires the use of a torque wrench when tightening lugs. #6 grounding electrode conductor to the Main? #4 cold water ground back to the Main? Utility bond bridge adjacent to the Main? Bond screw is not threaded into the enclosure? Equipment Identification? I'll assume this is PVC raceway as there are no bonding lock nuts. Also Article 240.2 A conductor rated a minimum of 10% of the ampacity of a feeder conductor may be tapped from the feeder provided its length is not greater than 10 feet and it terminates in an appropriately sized overcurrent protective device. The wires you removed are rated a minimum of 10% (20Amps). The viewer does not have enough information to determine if the tap rule cannot be used. Please recommend licensed and insured professionals to work on the electrical systems. Other than a contractor, only a homeowner is approved to apply for a permit and inspection. Thank you. Good luck. -PD
Phil, thank you for the code section and other information in your post. I have wondered about this situation when seeing conductors that I thought (according to rudimentary principles) needed protection, yet the installation was professional. I appreciate your post with the code and the limitations.
Yes I've been recommending everybody to get ring cameras now. Although it is better if you can get power to the doorbell because I prefer the powered ring doorbell cams to the battery ones which only last about two months
Thats not a door bell transformer ITS A WHOLE HOUSE SURGE ARESTER .The box is definitely GE they should mount a new surge arrester under the panel inside the house , remove this one and plug the open ko. The bottom of the main breaker box outside looks rusty a panelboard manufacture could probably make you a dead front cover
If you hire ANY type of contractor and he walks in with Ryobi power tools (I guess I can allow ONLY a vacuum or blower), cancel the appointment IMMEDIATELY!!! That means that my man is a level or two behind what you want....
Being existing construction was a finger plate required, and also was double taping not recommend back then. It seems like you/or the inspector is/are confusing new construction, with existing construction. Don't confuse the two, and don't apply codes that are not required by the state or AHJ ( Authority Having Jurisdiction for correct time period). By confusing the codes and AHJ you can cause more harm than good, especially in such an aged property.
Bill you completely missed the point here. Does not matter when the codes were installed. The problem is a buyer's home inspector coming in now will point out that this is not allowed now and they will demand it to be fixed. When they walk into the kitchen and bathroom and see no GFCI outlets, they will point this out and demand the seller fix it. That point flew over your head because you are too focused on what should be or not be.
@@jeffostroff ... not true. You do NOT have to make changes to new code unless other things are updated. They can recommend but not force the changes. OTOH, that interior plate was needed to make the UL listing of that cabinet during the original installation. That needs correcting.
@@rupe53 Make sure you tell that to the buyer as they are driving away also if the insurance company ever came by and it a 4 point inspection live at Forster to be changed or dump you on the spot now you have to go insurance hunting. The already went through this with another lady a couple of years ago we had to spray paint her entire electrical panel on the outside because it had a little bit of rust on it and we had to send the pictures to the insurance company to satisfy them.
@@jeffostroff ... let me point out that a buyer's inspection means they are interested in the house enough to get it inspected and anything found will be an item of negotiation for the final sale price. As for your insurance company trying to dump you, they would have to dump most any home built before 1980 if this were the case. Spray painting for rust would be a small item. Fix the leak (if it's rusty on the inside) then clean and paint. That's maintenance and repair, not a code update.
@@jeffostroff plus it wouldn’t have mattered anyways if the regular driver wasn’t insulated. That’s why you said they also make those ratchets insulated. Don’t guys like this get on your nerves? I know it’s your channel and you have to be nice but damn.
It wouldn’t have mattered anyways if the regular driver wasn’t insulated. That little piece of rubber at the end of driver won’t do a damn thing if your shocked.
Looks more like we were responding to a friend's emergency when they showed me the buyer's home inspection report and the buyers refused to buy the house until this was fixed.
In plain English, you found and corrected an unprotected, unfused 240 volt sub-circuit that could have and would have killed any child or homeowner who came in contact with that circuit.
it might fry both, depending on what transformer they put in place. If they install a 120 v transformer across 240 volts, don't expect it to last very long.
@@jeffostroff -- I just never knew a transformer to fry from over voltage; assuming we are not talking about a switching supply. Too high VA sure, i.e. over-power, but not solely from voltage.
Actually the form of tapping you have here is extremely dangerous and a fire hazard. #12 or #14 wire on a 150 or 200amp breaker? Suppose somebody changed out that doorbell transformer to a receptacle then plugged in a garden tool with a #16 extension cord? Also the inspector missed something else. That CATV or worse yet satellite dish ground block has no ground wire I can see. And I believe you are in Florida right? Major lightning region. It is supposed to have a #6 to the central ground point which should be near by the meter. At least a #6 lugged to that main breaker box would be OK in this case but still a questionable code violation. It typically must go to the central ground point. If that satellite dish takes a lightning hit, even one close by, the only path for that immense voltage and current back to Earth is into the house and through the satellite box and it's out the grounded power cord back to the main panel utility ground tie. A house fire is all but guaranteed. This is why it's so important to properly ground outdoor antennas.
@@jeffostroff Double tapping two #12 or #14 off a 20a or 15a breaker respectively may have been allowed in prior codes. But tapping a circuit like that, an un-fused consumer utility circuit off the main, was never allowed in any electrical code. And the fact that a 120v transformer was tied to 240v clearly shows to me who ever did that was clueless as to what they were doing. Same goes for the CATV/satellite. Antenna grounding requirements go back at least to the 1950s when mainstream TV was born.
LOL, how could anyone believe you when they know you are a lying troll? Look at 3:00 and 5:00 we show very clear 4K video zoomed into the failure area, and nice closeups of the repair. What video were you watching? Not this one LOL. Normally I would say nice try, but this wasn't even a nice try, you rode in here on your high horse and face planted on the dismount.
not a good video ,people should not be in a box with live wires is #1 .#2 where is your personal protective equipment , eye protection ,should have an approved face shield , are your gloves rated for working with live equipment if so have they had their regular test by an approved company .Another possible requirement may be your clothing which may need to be fireproof ? .So now we might have saved you ??? You did not mention anything about the fact that the transformer and wiring was only protected by the main breaker and not by an appropriate sized breaker .playing with electricity is not a game . Ken Allen retired electrician
That’s a violation electrically and it’s an unsafe condition you have a double tap on the load side of a breaker which is fused at 200 A in your cable is not even rated for that that’s an unsafe condition it’s an eminent danger.
Nice box of Craftsman tools. If it was parked in your garage. I hope that was an ad, and I hope they hear people that say the tools are fine, but giant blow molded plastic isn't going in my vehicle. How do they always manage to make space wasting devices that allow your tools to roll all over? You hit one pot hole, and you'll be as organized as a 5 gallon bucket. How come there's not more rubberized socket holders? I'd rather have 5 of those in the pocket of my bag than an entire drawer of tools that requires being kept upright. It's not a dig, Craftsman, it's a complaint tool makers in general. If you want your tools to be used by craftsmen, then you have to think portability and stability. Where would I put that at a construction site? Buried in the job box where you can't get to it.
Oh, and thanks for the input. I had never seen a bell transformer set up like that. Seems like the work of a bad handiman or resident. But then, look at the hard Rock hotel, no telling what builders will do.
I brought the Craftsman with me just to continue to test how it survives in different operating environments as I am still evaluating and testing it. If you see my other video from a few weeks ago you will see I compared this Craftsman tool set to the to dewalt tool set that comes in a case and normally I would have brought that dewalt tool set with me but decided to just test the Craftsman tools. You don't have to worry about tools in their traveling from bin to bin because I are already completed a 5' drop test in that tool review video and they Craftsman tool set did OK the sockets did not come flying out or anything.
Yes this house was built in the 80s and I suggested to them that they get a ring doorbell. What they will have to do in this case since there's no power to it is they have to get one of the battery operated ring doorbells. And when you do that you probably need to buy two or three backup batteries so that you always have one charged green claims that they will last several months but I've heard some people say they only got a month or two out of their battery so that's why you always want to keep a few in rotation on the charger
What is supposed to be a 'Dead front' is not.That neutral wire with white tape looks rather dodgy or the whole box looks quite UN-professional.AHHH the %^&* done by those who have NO idea what they are doing.
it is not as simple as you are making it. "double taps" are NOT illegal. while that install IS illegal it is NOT because of the tap , taps have to be done correctly in this case it looks to be a 200 amp main so you need a #4 minimum which is rated for a 200 amp short it must be less than3' in length to a correctly sized protection device 90 amp minimum rating with 60 protection AND the feed lugs must be rated for multiple taps which all lugs on a molded case brakers are rated for. hate to nit pick while you are cleaning up that god awful mess but home inspectors are idiots 99% of the time and don't understand the exceptions part of the code.
If you ever came to do some electrical work on my 🏠 and you showed up with that craftsman socket set, you wouldn't be doing work on my 🏠....I said what i said
Nuisance hazard my foot, safety hazard, safety hazard. No double tap allowed, no breaker or neutral bus bar. Replace the whole disconnect... crap workmanship.
Honestly, I thought you had already removed the finger plate. You ask "what's wrong with this panel?" and my answer was, I can't tell, you're not showing it very well. So if you're going to ask a question, think about what the viewer has been told and can reasonably see, otherwise you'll seem kind of obtuse.
I still don't know why anyone had removed the finger plate, unless maybe it was never installed.
For those offering other suggestions... NEVER underwire a breaker. #12 on a 200 amp main is no good no matter how you slice it. Next item is that's NOT a breaker panel. That is a main disconnect. You can solve your problem (if you haven't done it already) by installing a small main panel right there. That would give you a compliant panel, with the interior cover PLUS place for a breaker to power your doorbell, and an outside outlet or two. The only changes would be to remove the bonding on the existing main panel and that will become a sub panel.
These are all things the builder should have done. I Hope nowadays they are more strict and look out for things like this.
@@jeffostroff ... I may have missed something but "the builder" was 40+ years ago, right? I guess the point here is to make it right, but I do believe "right" can be to the originally intended code as a repair, without changing so many things they would call it a new service. (and new code)
@@rupe53 I would be nervous if the insurance company sent an inspector, because in the past we had to remove the outdoor main panel cover, and sand it down and paint it because it had rust. The insurance company made us send photos of the finished product.
He should have provided a little basic information in regard to the over heating/fire hazard risks involved with underwired breakers at the beginning. If anyone watching this video is not familiar and is tempted do their own electrical work, I highly recommend doing your research in regard to what you should be doing and why. Don't burn your house down, especially while you are in it.
Hey Jeff, could the reason the transformer have been installed close to the tap was to conform to NEC's 10 foot feeder tap rule? Since the conductors feed a transformer and possibly the transformer's overcurrent protection (fuses), the conductors would be considered feeders.
Yes, but they could have switched the breaker out to one that allows double tapping, or used a different lug type with multiple screw positions like the bus bars have. Either way, in my opinion, that transformer should have had it's own breaker if wired in that spot, because if the transformer fails as a short instead of an open circuit, it trips that main breaker and takes down the whole house power, right before you hit the save button on your Microsoft Word document for your PHD dissertation! LOL!
@@jeffostroff Haha true. Cool video, I don't usually watch this stuff on youtube but this caught my eye. Have a good Christmas
@@jeffostroff i am not 100 % sure but don't the code call for it to have its own beaker and be within the 10 feet of the main fuse box not the emergency disconnect
@@chaos1291975 ... just to avoid confusion, you may NOT use #12 or #14 wire connected to a main breaker... AND... that's not a breaker panel so no room for a smaller breaker. That is a disconnect panel... nothing else goes in there.
@@jeffostroff That malfunctioning transformer, with that wiring would never trip that breaker. It would just melt down and maybe catch fire, all the while being fed power.
Thanks for showing such an obvious fire hazard with no overload protection rated for the tapped wire.
Yes, luckily the transformer must have blown open, instead of shorting or it could have caused some damage.
Good education. After hooking up my kindle from my old doorbell to a down regulated 5v connection, the 240v doorbell connection makes me feel so inadequate .
Experience will make you more confident. Thanks for watching Limestar!
handymen always give me job I really appreciate it
- certified electrician
Your service not needed here I removed the violation left by the licensed electrician
Jeff, in general what you did here was safe and effective but there was one thing you said regarding your "safety precautions" that was not accurate. The gloves you were wearing to help protect from electrical shock, may be fine work gloves but they offer zero protection from a live circuit, no matter how incidental the contact. The only gloves to offer protection while working on a live circuit are a tested and certified pair of rubber electrical gloves (rated from class-00 (500 volts) to class-4 (36,000 volts) topped by a pair of leather over gloves for abrasion protection.
Bill thought that myself. Why not just replace the box if it's that bad.
@@trentjohnson7246 Property owners don't have the money, and did not have the money to hire an electrician that will charge $1500 for this repair. But if you're volunteering to send them the $1500, they'll right on it. Also you are correct about the gloves, but a DIYer doesn't have the necessary gloves, and regular gloves will over some protection, some resistance, perhaps enough to save a life. Better than no gloves, so your statement about offering 0 protection is simply not true. I would not work on live terminals with the gloves I'm using, but surely it will cut down some of the electricity.
@@jeffostroff It is expensive to replace the electrical panel. I know from first-hand experience - and my former housemate was perhaps the worst professional electrician ever. Where I live the cost of the permit is $350. I ended up buying a Square D Homelite box at HD. Then I had to install two new ground rods, buy all the romex wiring, the copper ground wire, a new bus to install into the new box, the new weather head, all the new conduits, new Square D breakers including the GFCI breakers which are expensive, replace and add CO detectors & 10-year smoke detectors, replace all the outlet receptacles. The residential electrician bills at around $100 per hour. And that doesn't include all the trips I had to make to HD because my goofy housemate is rotten at planning. I ended up firing my housemate and hiring another guy who was way more organized (which in itself would make a good teaching video - ie, hiring a disorganized anybody will be a disaster waiting to happen). And let's not forget the cost of the tools - even my used DeWalt SDS max plus bits was over $200.
If it's hot and your hands are sweat soaked at all, get ready for some tingles! ;) The danger here isn't the Double Tap per say. The DANGER is that those thinner wires are unfused or unprotected. They have a very high chance of collateral damage if they short, since they are only 'protected' by the large MAIN breaker. They may be too thin to even trip the main. They could short, and cause heat that may not trip the large breaker. This could lead to more loss of insulation, more current, more heat and take out the hole box, and possible house. It is a safety hazard, not just a nuisance!
110 % correct Bill
You can just get some sheet metal, sheers, drill bits, and file and manufacture a new cover yourself. and some spray paint to make it look nice if the colors don't match.
Another problem I saw with this wires that you pulled out were undersized for the current since it was connected directly to the 200 amp main breaker 🤩👍 I enjoyed watching your video 😎
Thanks Kevin!
Kinda hard to run 4 gauge wire to an outlet or junction box LMAO
Thank you kindly for your help. Keep safe out there and again thanks.🌴👍
Thanks, you too!
Very informative vid, but are you really running 3 different platforms? Just sponsees I’m thinking ; )
i use a bunch of different tools, and lots of tool review videos, so yes I use lots of platforms. Also I just happen to have a cheap Ryobi tiny blower that I use. The Milwaukee M18 vac I got at Black Friday Sale, as well as the Craftsman tool set, waned to get them into the field and tested.
So, does this engineer have his license to perform electrical work too ? Did he properly torque the set screws ? Did the home inspector tell this guy the panel really should be replaced once it has become rusted ?
You’re just a bundle of assumptions I bet your wife or husband 😉 loves you for that.
Are your gloves actually rated Class 0 for electrical work? They don't appear to be anything other than regular work gloves.
You are correct, just a slight improvement over bare hands.
@@jeffostroff Depending on what the gloves are made of, they can actually be worse than bare hands. If the material melts in a scenario where you would have only got a slight jolt, you would now have melted polymer, or whatever, as a nice coat of molten lava over your skin!
Thanks Jeff - I enjoy watching your videos.
Glad you like them! Thanks Bill!
Maybe you could help me. My water heater needs to be replaced. The estimate guy came out and turned off the WH 30amp Breaker and he left. Then my house started to get warm. Seems like the breaker is tied into my AC. Then a 2nd guy to give me an estimate and he said the new water heater only needed a 20 amp breaker and that I had to have it reduced from 30 to 20 I told him am AC was tied to the 30amp. He said the inspector would not pass inspection if he left the 30amp in. Now what should I do. I’m confused
I would get a licensed electrician to solve the problem first of why your AC is connected to water heater, it should not be. Next find owners manual to your water heater it tells you how much your breaker should be rated for, or maybe a sticker on the water heater has the info. If you have to reduce the breaker size, an electrician can do it in minutes, probably charge you $150.
Electric water heaters require a 240-volt dedicated circuit, which serves only the water heater and no other appliances or devices. The circuit wiring typically includes a 30-amp double-pole breaker and 10-2 non-metallic or MC cable.
This is a perfect example of why you should never purchase a house without a inspection
Yes, unfortunately the sellers were once the buyers of this unit, they were naive and too trusting of the real estate agent at the time. I have a huge mistrust of most real estate agents, who will lie and do and say anything to get the sale to go through, then it all falls apart at inspection when their lies are revealed. Also they send in goons to make repairs who are unqualified and make things worse. One agent sent in someone to fix the kitchen GFCI outlet, and he left it cross wired, never checked it. Home inspector caught it instead.
Have found doorbell transformers in some pretty weird places....but this one is in the top 5 of “odd” places 😂
Also, like the saying.....can’t make sense of stupidity 👍🏻
Great Vid✌🏼
Forgot to add. I’ve taken model numbers etc... to my local Ace Hardware & Supply House before & they’ve both helped track down old “hard to find” parts for me. Just a thought, if having hard time.
Thanks Aepek! I might even tell them to just switch to Ring Doorbell, 21st century technology
My stock of 16v 30va transformers have been flying off the shelf for that reason :)
@@UbuntuSuperUser LOL, so it was YOUR sales guys that installed it! HA!
Here’s my take. First. That is a main disconnect, not a breaker panel. Second not only are the load lines double tapped but whatever the load is has no current protection so over 200 amps could flow thru 12g conductors. Bad news. Also why would you use an all metal ratchet on those lugs? Why not use an insulated T handle? Also those lugs need to be torqued to spec when you re tighten them if you’re an “engineer”.
Yes, everything the builder did was wrong. Our friends had no money to hire an electrical contractor with all the right torque tools, so yes they got a repair that works, but academically is not to the code book crossing every T and dotting every I. They never asked to be dragged into this by an unscrupulous builder, but in the end this fix was needed to make the sale of the house go through. Maybe some day the new owners if they ever get flush with cash might want to call in a contractor to make the full repair, or maybe if they upgrade their service to higher AMPS, replace the entire box altogether. Another one people get stuck with all the time are Zinsco electric panels. Don't even get me started there.
Might be different in U.S. but here in UK we mostly fit WiFi door bells these days.
Yes we have been doing that a few years too, now in fact I just bought a set of Ring Doorbells, which are wifi, and garage floodlights that go with it, and cameras. Will be doing a tool review on it soon.
Save money and have people knocking at the door! Lol
Thinking should just replace that main disconnect looks like has had moisture in it, maybe provide one with extra branch breakers for the external outlet(s)
Yes in an ideal world I would definitely recommend that as well unfortunately they were under contract for sale and they didn't have a penny to even spend anymore something like this would probably run $1000
@@jeffostroff here in s. Florida i normally charge about $1800-$2200 to replace that. Permit, inspection, meter main disconnect, fittings, etc. Not a cheap option for sure.
In my industry double tapping means you put two bullets in a bad guy,, This officially called a controlled pair.
There you go! Love the nomenclature
Marshal Dillian Style lol
You can double tap or more as long as wires is rated for amperage that breaker protecting circuit doesn't go more than rated for. Also taps should be pigtailed before going into load side of breakers.
No you cannot double tap. Only if the breaker is designed for it, which certain square D breaker switches are.
@@jeffostroff if there is a pigtail then the defect is considered corrected and is no longer double tapped. If the circuit breaker isn't designed to hold two conductors, the conductors could come loose at some point in the future, even if they feel very tight today. Loose conductors can lead to overheating, arcing, and possibly a fire. But a pigtail is acceptable. If it wasn’t you wouldn’t be able to have several receptacles down the line. It’s all the same thing. The issue isn't about the load imposed on the circuit, it's about the physical connection.
Uhhhh....... that ratchet and extension/ hex bit set up was not insulated. Why was there a large disclaimer suggesting that it was?
Uhhhhh.You don't know how to read. The statement on the screen at 10:27 reads “There are insulated tools that can be used”. So why did you lie and ask “Why was there a large disclaimer suggesting that it was?”. we never said that it was an insulated tool in fact the only reason I was using that tool was because and you didn't pay attention earlier, we cut off the power to that side of it with the switch so there was no live voltage anywhere near where we were working at the bottom half of that electrical panel.
@@jeffostroff people on RUclips are so annoying and stupid. Good luck buddy it’s going to be long road dealing with these internet idiots that can’t comprehend a basic discussion or read. Smh.
Your a dummy he NEVER suggested that it was insulated he said that they make ratchets and extensions insulated. Smh people like you are hilarious.
Why not simply install a wireless doorbell and skip the day of labor and expense involved with a wired doorbell? Seems a like a no-brainer to me.
Owners had ZERO money, and were under the gun to get the place sold, the buyers were demanding all sorts of stuff.
No re torque on the lugs?
They were not torqued to begin with
question... my house was built in 1977 is it common to have aluminum wire from meter to breaker box
Most is aluminum still. Electricians use a bonding solution and oxide inhibitor like Penetrox to allow for the expansion and contraction of the wire in the lugs of the meter and the main.
SOME breakers are specified that they can be double-tapped. THe practice of double tapping itself is not incorrect, but should only be done when the breaker or switch is made that way. This one is quite old, and I don't recall something in that vintage that was ever made to be double-tapped. This particular case, if it WAS made to be double tapped.....2nd wires tapped on there would need to be the same guage as the big ones.
great video. my home inspection book says that double taps may be accepted where the wire is a low-voltage transformer...like the doorbell. it would have to be accepted. now i feel confused. i'm a student trying to learn. thanks
Cool, thanks
You can connect two doorbells to one transformer. but not two transformers to one breaker connection.
how i have done old work doorbells i get a 2 gang box run my wire up to it cover the box with the bell body that way the transformer is right behind the bell and in a electrical box for easy access then run your bell wire to the door but i only do that on old work new work i put transformer by the panel but to be honest i haven't looked at the updated code for doorbell transformers for a long time so any input would be great and i have only done 2 in the last 15 years none in the last 10 lol wireless is a lifesaver on that one
Yes as far as I know you just can't double tap unless you have breakers that are designed for double tapping.
They do have 240 transformers 240 down to 24 volts but that’s not how it’s done you are correct
With the ring doorbells now, you can get away without powering the doorbell
Have that same GE disconnect box on a pole supply power from POCO feeds a couple farm buildings/shop
These were popular back in the earl 1980s
Thanks for the video Jeff. You're a braver guy than I, daring to post electrical work to YT. 😁 Did someone end up fabricating an inner panel cover, or was total box replacement eventually necessary to satisfy the inspectors?
Not that I know of, to find on that old someone would likely have to make one. Sellers just told the buyers it was not on the panel when they bought the townhouse so there won't be one now.
@@jeffostroff It seems like when the home was sold before, the electrition was paid off to supply a certificate for the sale and did not do the job correctly .
@@jeffostroff ... a home brew cover would not be UL approved. End of story.
@@rupe53 but neither is not having one!
@@coypatton3160 ... in the case of liability, the guy who makes the modification (or is the last to touch the job) winds up with the liability if there's a problem. Better to not touch it from that viewpoint. If some inspector or the bank insists something be corrected you can offer some $$ toward the repair (but not total replacement) and let the next guy worry about it.
You could go to a wireless door bell,why run wires!simple fix!👍
Yes we installed a Ring Doorbell at our house. BUT it is still desirable to have that 24 VAC wired connection to the Ring, because if you go with their battery option, I heard they last only 3 months, even though the company claims it lasts a year. You have to buy extra batteries if you don't want a gap in coverage while your battery charges for 10 hours overnight.
@@jeffostroff the battery lasts 6 months to a year depending on activity and I’m sure that anyone could survive without a doorbell for a few hours every six months.
THANK YOU FOR SHARING; BUT YOU FORGOT TO TELL US HOW WE SUPPOSED TO CONNECT THE "PROVES" ( BLACK AND RED CABLES) FROM THE READER DETECTOR " TO THE MAIN BOX. 🥴. SHALOM.
Some breakers allow dubble tap but that main breaker
Yes as I mentioned in the video, this breaker does not allow double taps but certain ones from Square D are designed specifically to be double tapped
So you think it’s okay to tap a 100 amp breaker with 12g conductors?
How about one of those stick on door bells that work with a battery. Why go through all that hassle. Or a knocker on the door. Most people just knock on my door anyway. Remember the term ‘KISS’, I’m sure you have heard of it.
I suggest a wireless doorbell product..... Easy install...
I like that line “you can’t make logic on stupidity
I'm Just a comedian trying to help! LOL Yes we find ourselves often trying to figure what was going through the builder's mind.
You talked about all the safety but you did not wear safety glasses when you were blowing out the panel box. What is up with that?
Yes sometimes while filming videos I forgo the glasses for easy filming of the scenes
That's good you teach me
Glad to help out!
Probably whoever double-tapped that box was the one that never put the plate back on😏 if those wires shorted against anything it has no breaker protection except the full hundred amps of the main! That would really put on a nice light show 😃
Yes it is Christmas time, I'm in the mood for a good light show!
Even if you could double tap those wires are so under rated for that breaker amperage. Potential fire hazard.
no true spark will use a volt alert , tap them on wood and they light , test with proper meter and test meter before and after on a good known source
Not every homeowner has these meters, which is why I showed the lower cost Voltalert. And besides your assessment is wrong. If there is electrical energy there it is 100% accurate, never seen it miss. Fluke does not make garbage electrical tools.
@@jeffostroff A homeowner should not be anywhere near the incoming mains , flicking a trip switch (breaker) is as much as they should be doing
@@nf5416 True but you know many of them are going to do it anyway and they're not going to buy the type 0 gloves so the only thing we can do is protect them as much as we can
Every licensed master electrician I’ve even encountered has and uses a NCVT just to test for live wires. A multimeter is for specific readings. Sometimes you just need to know if a wire has potential or not doesn’t matter if it’s 120 or 240 volts, doesn’t matter the current draw.
Well if we could have seen the inside close up, possibly but that camera was too far away. I hit pause to comment, let's see how ya do sparky
Yes I was rushing in fighting the impending rain and to darkness at the same time 'cause this really came up on me out of nowhere from my friends house. I did not have all of the time that I usually like to take to switch lenses refocus zoom in on certain areas etc doing video production is a real pain in the neck
how about this instead of finding that piece of metal for that why don't you just replace the whole entire box with a new one
I was thinking the same and put in a proper disconnect. Box looks like it has had water penetration at the bottom.
That's probably what he will end up having to do if he can't find a new cover for that. It's probably going to be better to just buy a new disconnect.
Unfortunately for the sellers, they are broke and don't have the $1500 an electrician would charge to replace that box plus all the other stuff they have to pay for to fix around the house first. It only costs maybe $30 for the finger plate. How about you send them the $1500 to hire the contractor to replace it?
@@jeffostroff yes that does present a problem. they are really racking him if they are charging 1500 to change that though! That sounds like way too much money
Smart meter. Dumb home owner.
The transformer doesn't care about input voltage. It will just give you double the output voltage which will burn out the doorbell.
It's not a double transformer, it is a stepdown transformer.
Hope those tool companies paid you for the product placement lol. Good tutorial tho 👍
I appreciate you taking the time and sharing your thoughts. However, you open the door for professionals to point out additional problems. I think it is wise to recommend viewers to hire licensed contractors when it comes to life safety.
The "inspector" missed a whole lot more than "double tap".
You are working at the Main and should be identified as such. The underground utility (service lateral) is rated a minimum of 200 Amps.
The over current protection inside of the dwelling are part of the sub-panels, not main panels.
Some additional code violations without personally standing there to look at this installation. I should be able to see the following at the Main location:
The NEC requires the use of a torque wrench when tightening lugs.
#6 grounding electrode conductor to the Main?
#4 cold water ground back to the Main?
Utility bond bridge adjacent to the Main?
Bond screw is not threaded into the enclosure?
Equipment Identification?
I'll assume this is PVC raceway as there are no bonding lock nuts.
Also
Article 240.2
A conductor rated a minimum of 10% of the ampacity of
a feeder conductor may be tapped from the feeder provided
its length is not greater than 10 feet and it terminates in an
appropriately sized overcurrent protective device.
The wires you removed are rated a minimum of 10% (20Amps).
The viewer does not have enough information to determine if the tap rule cannot be used.
Please recommend licensed and insured professionals to work on the electrical systems. Other than a contractor, only a homeowner is approved to apply for a permit and inspection.
Thank you. Good luck.
-PD
Phil, thank you for the code section and other information in your post. I have wondered about this situation when seeing conductors that I thought (according to rudimentary principles) needed protection, yet the installation was professional. I appreciate your post with the code and the limitations.
✅ Tools used in this double tapped electrical breaker video:
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The homeowner can get those electronic doorbells with cameras. Forget about wires.
Yes I've been recommending everybody to get ring cameras now. Although it is better if you can get power to the doorbell because I prefer the powered ring doorbell cams to the battery ones which only last about two months
Thats not a door bell transformer ITS A WHOLE HOUSE SURGE ARESTER .The box is definitely GE they should mount a new surge arrester under the panel inside the house , remove this one and plug the open ko. The bottom of the main breaker box outside looks rusty a panelboard manufacture could probably make you a dead front cover
Looks like people are split on this one
I was thinking the same thing, like who would tap a doorbell from a main disconnect so far away? Highly unlikely for even the most incompetent person.
@@mook528 Thats not a doorbell its a whole house surge arrester it should be on the inside by the panel coming off a 20 or 30 amp 2 pole breaker.
Another code violation on that inappropriate double tap is they used what seems to be 12 guage wire on an 100amp breaker
What should they be using there, 4 gauge maybe?
@@jeffostroff 3 awg
If you hire ANY type of contractor and he walks in with Ryobi power tools (I guess I can allow ONLY a vacuum or blower), cancel the appointment IMMEDIATELY!!! That means that my man is a level or two behind what you want....
Hey got a couple of Ryobis!
Being existing construction was a finger plate required, and also was double taping not recommend back then. It seems like you/or the inspector is/are confusing new construction, with existing construction. Don't confuse the two, and don't apply codes that are not required by the state or AHJ ( Authority Having Jurisdiction for correct time period). By confusing the codes and AHJ you can cause more harm than good, especially in such an aged property.
Bill you completely missed the point here. Does not matter when the codes were installed. The problem is a buyer's home inspector coming in now will point out that this is not allowed now and they will demand it to be fixed. When they walk into the kitchen and bathroom and see no GFCI outlets, they will point this out and demand the seller fix it. That point flew over your head because you are too focused on what should be or not be.
@@jeffostroff ... not true. You do NOT have to make changes to new code unless other things are updated. They can recommend but not force the changes. OTOH, that interior plate was needed to make the UL listing of that cabinet during the original installation. That needs correcting.
@@rupe53 Make sure you tell that to the buyer as they are driving away also if the insurance company ever came by and it a 4 point inspection live at Forster to be changed or dump you on the spot now you have to go insurance hunting. The already went through this with another lady a couple of years ago we had to spray paint her entire electrical panel on the outside because it had a little bit of rust on it and we had to send the pictures to the insurance company to satisfy them.
@@jeffostroff ... let me point out that a buyer's inspection means they are interested in the house enough to get it inspected and anything found will be an item of negotiation for the final sale price. As for your insurance company trying to dump you, they would have to dump most any home built before 1980 if this were the case. Spray painting for rust would be a small item. Fix the leak (if it's rusty on the inside) then clean and paint. That's maintenance and repair, not a code update.
Very odd use of a ratchet. I would have used the regular driver, which at least isn't a metal handle.
Driver does not have enough torque to tighten this by hand on this old box.
@@jeffostroff plus it wouldn’t have mattered anyways if the regular driver wasn’t insulated. That’s why you said they also make those ratchets insulated. Don’t guys like this get on your nerves? I know it’s your channel and you have to be nice but damn.
It wouldn’t have mattered anyways if the regular driver wasn’t insulated. That little piece of rubber at the end of driver won’t do a damn thing if your shocked.
A 150 Amp, 240V doorbell...JESUS, it must sound like a freight train!!
It doesn't sound like anything actually LOL my friends who owned this place said it never worked in the 15 years that they lived in it
Just replace with a wireless doorbell.
Yes that 8s the best solution in this case
Double tapped wires... as a FL Insurance Broker, that's as triggering as it gets lol
Double tapping. Why the hell have I not thought of this earlier?
looks more like a tool commercial.
Looks more like we were responding to a friend's emergency when they showed me the buyer's home inspection report and the buyers refused to buy the house until this was fixed.
In plain English, you found and corrected an unprotected, unfused 240 volt sub-circuit that could have and would have killed any child or homeowner who came in contact with that circuit.
That about sums it up yes!
It's fused by the main breaker load side, but would likely never trip due to it being on the main breaker.
Also doesn't look like 3' working clearance in front of the panel
Arguable, but it is cramped .
Don't you mean 240 would fry the doorbell as opposed to the transformer?
it might fry both, depending on what transformer they put in place. If they install a 120 v transformer across 240 volts, don't expect it to last very long.
@@jeffostroff -- I just never knew a transformer to fry from over voltage; assuming we are not talking about a switching supply. Too high VA sure, i.e. over-power, but not solely from voltage.
That is one nasty box
yes it was a pain to see this box
Possible safety hazard? It’s not the double tapping which is the big issue, it is the undersized wire for the breaker!!!!!! 😮
Both issues!
Are you confessing to doing this?
Not sure what you are asking. Are you confessing to being ambiguous?
The worst thing about this is that it's on atleast a 100 Amp breaker
I've never heard of a double tap before, but whatever you call it , that setup was stupid, dangerous, and illegal.
Actually the form of tapping you have here is extremely dangerous and a fire hazard. #12 or #14 wire on a 150 or 200amp breaker? Suppose somebody changed out that doorbell transformer to a receptacle then plugged in a garden tool with a #16 extension cord?
Also the inspector missed something else. That CATV or worse yet satellite dish ground block has no ground wire I can see. And I believe you are in Florida right? Major lightning region. It is supposed to have a #6 to the central ground point which should be near by the meter. At least a #6 lugged to that main breaker box would be OK in this case but still a questionable code violation. It typically must go to the central ground point. If that satellite dish takes a lightning hit, even one close by, the only path for that immense voltage and current back to Earth is into the house and through the satellite box and it's out the grounded power cord back to the main panel utility ground tie. A house fire is all but guaranteed. This is why it's so important to properly ground outdoor antennas.
Maybe a lot of this was allowed in 1983 when this was built. Other electricians have notice violations on this box as well.
@@jeffostroff Double tapping two #12 or #14 off a 20a or 15a breaker respectively may have been allowed in prior codes. But tapping a circuit like that, an un-fused consumer utility circuit off the main, was never allowed in any electrical code. And the fact that a 120v transformer was tied to 240v clearly shows to me who ever did that was clueless as to what they were doing. Same goes for the CATV/satellite. Antenna grounding requirements go back at least to the 1950s when mainstream TV was born.
This guys tolls have never been used before
I use them all quite a bit which tools do you say haven't been used. And what does that even mean?
How could anyone see what the problem in the box is. The camera is not even close to showing the inside of that box. So no I can’t see them.
LOL, how could anyone believe you when they know you are a lying troll? Look at 3:00 and 5:00 we show very clear 4K video zoomed into the failure area, and nice closeups of the repair. What video were you watching? Not this one LOL. Normally I would say nice try, but this wasn't even a nice try, you rode in here on your high horse and face planted on the dismount.
Wheres the bell wire at
There's hole in the concrete behind the transformer sub box, that's where the wires enter the house.
not a good video ,people should not be in a box with live wires is #1 .#2 where is your personal protective equipment , eye protection ,should have an approved face shield , are your gloves rated for working with live equipment if so have they had their regular test by an approved company .Another possible requirement may be your clothing which may need to be fireproof ? .So now we might have saved you ??? You did not mention anything about the fact that the transformer and wiring was only protected by the main breaker and not by an appropriate sized breaker .playing with electricity is not a game . Ken Allen retired electrician
thanks for the input
@@jeffostroff just worry about public thinking no problem and hurting themselves
Say HELLOW TO MY LITTLE FREIND👍
That was a fun fix
You are obviously not qualified to be working on electrical equipment.
Nice how unqualified troll makes a dumb blanket statement without explaining what was wrong. You are obviously not qualified to even comment. LOL!
@@jeffostroff 28 years as a licensed electrician. 14 as an electrical contractor.
Great video man you are no common sense
Does anyone make a circuit breaker that can also be controlled by Wi-Fi? Like a smart switch type thing?
That's a great thought! I've never seen one yet but if they don't make it yet I'm sure that they will be 😏
Atom.
Yes. Leviton
LUTRON
Well that’s not even “tapped” but landed together
Yup, glad to undo that one
Day's worth of work??? Just that drywall job? O....ok, you must work 2 1/2 hour days LOL
240v chime......ok bud
That's why whoever hooked that up clearly had no business being inside that main box. They connected it across 240V.
Are those even thwn wire
first problem is those GD trees planted right by the meter, a chain saw would fix that!
So why don’t you disconnect it and clear the hazard and we can move on the the next scene.
We did disconnect it
Fluke meter - $300, ouch!
Yes, I bought that years ago. As an electrical engineer, I always wanted the bets of he best for my lab test equipment.
@@jeffostroff ... Fluke... many are lifetime warranty. Buy it once and never worry..
That’s a violation electrically and it’s an unsafe condition you have a double tap on the load side of a breaker which is fused at 200 A in your cable is not even rated for that that’s an unsafe condition it’s an eminent danger.
Yes, that is why I was called in, because the buyer's inspector flagged it. Builder did this originally.
Why not just rebuild the service
Would cost $2000, then permits and delays. Owners were under contract, closing in a few days and had no money
Nice box of Craftsman tools. If it was parked in your garage. I hope that was an ad, and I hope they hear people that say the tools are fine, but giant blow molded plastic isn't going in my vehicle. How do they always manage to make space wasting devices that allow your tools to roll all over? You hit one pot hole, and you'll be as organized as a 5 gallon bucket. How come there's not more rubberized socket holders? I'd rather have 5 of those in the pocket of my bag than an entire drawer of tools that requires being kept upright.
It's not a dig, Craftsman, it's a complaint tool makers in general. If you want your tools to be used by craftsmen, then you have to think portability and stability. Where would I put that at a construction site? Buried in the job box where you can't get to it.
Oh, and thanks for the input. I had never seen a bell transformer set up like that. Seems like the work of a bad handiman or resident. But then, look at the hard Rock hotel, no telling what builders will do.
I brought the Craftsman with me just to continue to test how it survives in different operating environments as I am still evaluating and testing it. If you see my other video from a few weeks ago you will see I compared this Craftsman tool set to the to dewalt tool set that comes in a case and normally I would have brought that dewalt tool set with me but decided to just test the Craftsman tools. You don't have to worry about tools in their traveling from bin to bin because I are already completed a 5' drop test in that tool review video and they Craftsman tool set did OK the sockets did not come flying out or anything.
just get a wireless battery powered door bell..no need to cut drywall and run wire..ding dong
Yes this house was built in the 80s and I suggested to them that they get a ring doorbell. What they will have to do in this case since there's no power to it is they have to get one of the battery operated ring doorbells. And when you do that you probably need to buy two or three backup batteries so that you always have one charged green claims that they will last several months but I've heard some people say they only got a month or two out of their battery so that's why you always want to keep a few in rotation on the charger
What is supposed to be a 'Dead front' is not.That neutral wire with white tape looks rather
dodgy or the whole box looks quite UN-professional.AHHH the %^&* done by those who
have NO idea what they are doing.
that sums it up perfectly
Where's your face shield and jacket
it is not as simple as you are making it. "double taps" are NOT illegal. while that install IS illegal it is NOT because of the tap , taps have to be done correctly in this case it looks to be a 200 amp main so you need a #4 minimum which is rated for a 200 amp short it must be less than3' in length to a correctly sized protection device 90 amp minimum rating with 60 protection AND the feed lugs must be rated for multiple taps which all lugs on a molded case brakers are rated for. hate to nit pick while you are cleaning up that god awful mess but home inspectors are idiots 99% of the time and don't understand the exceptions part of the code.
No dude, ya camera angle is bad, go figure.
Nothing wrong with the camera angle it showed everything just fine. Another troll trying to do a bool report without reading the book
If you ever came to do some electrical work on my 🏠 and you showed up with that craftsman socket set, you wouldn't be doing work on my 🏠....I said what i said
whatever, elevate yourself above others. too much snobbery in the world.
Nuisance hazard my foot, safety hazard, safety hazard. No double tap allowed, no breaker or neutral bus bar. Replace the whole disconnect... crap workmanship.
Maybe that was code in 1983.
Lol a days worth of work to fix that I could do it under 2 hrs including drywall
Not sure what nonsense you are talking about, this was a half hour repair.
@@jeffostroff u said in the video it’ll take a full day to do
If you need to use this video to do this and you shouldn’t be going in an electrical enclosure doing this job
Many people can't afford to hire the electrician and will do it on their own
Sorry I meant they had no common sense
ummm no i cant see the code violation because your gut and the panel cover are in the way.
Just by his lingo i can tell hes not certified
Electrical work is not a hobby consult with a licensed electrician do not try to do this stuff yourself you could get hurt or injured.
That's why we had all the warnings about what areas were live and where to stay away from, and why we cut the power.