Fantastic video man!! I wanted to post up here because (thanks to this video) I found a much, much faster way to remove the motor/center diff assembly in case anyone is looking for it. 1. from the top of the truck, remove the screw-pin holding the front driveshaft to the center diff. 2. from the bottom of the truck, remove the small cover piece to expose the rear drive shaft connection 3. remove the screw-pin holding the rear driveshaft to the center diff 4. use a scrwedriver or something to push the rear driveshaft off the center diff 5. from the bottom, remove the 4 screws that hold the motor assembly to the chassis 6. the entire motor assembly can be wiggled free, you tilt the assembly forwards to bring the rear out first, then the front comes out and the front driveshift disconnects as you remove the assembly
Your videos on repair are on another level. I just watched the e Revo center diff rebulild. You details are critical and clearly from experienced wisdom. Please don’t stop!! I don’t even own a Revo and I feel more confident doing this already. The amount of info your videos are so awesome. Great work sir! Subscribed for sure 🚘
Thank you for the long videos. Your amount of detail is very lacking in all other videos I have seen on RUclips. Pretty sure my 9 year old could do these rebuilds using your videos. Very well detailed, explained and demonstrated.
This is the best video I've seen about rebuilding diff and transmission of E REVO. Your tips and tricks really helped me rebuilding mine. Keep up the great work and happy holidays!
13:20 traxxas calls it a torque biasing differential, but it’s not. It’s an open differential with so much resistance that it’s forced to transfer torque. It’s closer to a posi than a TBD. Basically, a posi uses clutches to apply friction to the gears, once the input torque exceeds that friction the diff can operate. The thick gear oil acts in the same manner. . A true torque biasing differential multiplies the torque the weakest wheel can generate and sends it to the wheel with the most traction. . It does this in a very simple manner. Helical gears produce radial torque like standard gears, but they also introduce axial torque that standard gears do not. The axial torque is proportional to the torque transmitted through the gears. . So, the more torque transmitted through the gears, which is dependent on the wheel with the least traction, the more binding that occurs from the axial torque generated on the gears and the case. . Since torque flows to the wheel with the most traction, the torque multiplier effect will produce more torque at the wheel with the most traction. . A locker doesn’t split torque evenly unless both wheels have the same traction and or the input torque doesn’t exceed the lowest wheels traction. For example, lift a wheel into the air and it cannot generate any torque (which is a force that requires resistance), so all the input torque will flow to the wheel on the ground (in a locked differential). . A torque biasing differential essentially locks up proportionally to the input torque.
Traxxas doesn’t call it a differential. The exact term they use is torque-biasing center drive. They pulled a sneaky a made people think more of it. Play on words is all.
Just wanted to say thanks my trans started binding up took it apart and found that the dif was locked up all the gears look OK put back together but didn't turn when I tighten the 4 screws watched your vid and seen what I was doing wrong big help
The center diff is what controls how much power goes to the front or rear. The thicker the oil the more that’ll go to the rear and the thinner the oil the more power that’ll go to the front. The Cush drive is what absorbs the impact
The center diff is also designed to absorb differences between the front and rear due to shock like front landing first. All of these devices are primarily shock absorption. Thin lube will make these trucks very front wheel drive instead of a basically locked center that only slips under major shock.
Get you some MIP tools and I bet you money you won’t/ wouldn’t of stripped any screws out. I have the hand set and speed tip set (Drill). They speak for them selves and pay off instantly.👍🏼 nice videos by the way
16/46 is a very tall gear ratio, especially for bashing. That’s 2.88:1. Stock is 3.6:1. . Taller gearing means more heat in the motor and esc, which means shorter runs before thermalling. Also means the batteries run hotter and out of juice quicker. . Stock gearing pulls 100 amps, running a 12/50 (4.17:1) pulls 87 amps, and 15/46 (3.07:1) pulls 116 amps on mine. Current creates heats. . A taller gear ratio actually reduces drivetrain torque multiplication, but the extra load causes the motor to draw more current and produce more power. . I’ve found that 12/50 gearing to be perfect for bashing. 46 mph top speed, a little too slow for standing backflips, but can do them off a curb. The motor and esc operate much cooler. And you still have great control in the air.
i run 4 dual sets of 3s NON STOP on my 16/46 and some times 16/50. ITS STUPID HOT, but i have a massive cooler on the motor and RPM covers, i DO NOT have issues with heat i bash the piss out of it full send almost the entire time. having 3x 30mm fans on that motor with custom coolers strapped it it 360* around is the key.
@ 3:22 it looks like you will be needing a spur gear. That one looks a little worn out, and the teeth are worn down pretty good. I use a tiny dab of axle grease to hold the washer in place on the output shaft when I rebuild diffs. Can you heat the fluid up to make it more pliable? Like, put it in a pan of warm water to make it easier to fill the diff? I always use a pair of small needle-nose pliers to put the spider gears, and shafts in. My fingers and knuckles don't work like they used to, and I can't get my hands in tight places like that anymore. @32:18 those on the can are ball bearings on rollers for like conveyer belts, or what warehouses use to roll boxes on to load trucks and such. I always thought you use 1 piece of paper, and not folded in half like that. Won't that have too much play between the gears? It works great for the smaller pitch gears, and maybe it's different for the bigger pitch gears.
I know this is an older video, but do you happen to have a set up sheet for your car - something that includes your whole set-up, lube and all. I turn to your vids all of the time when I want "real" info that I can trust to be right and true...along with some of the little tips and tricks. Love your content! Thanks for your work with the E Revo 2.0 !!!
I don't have a set up sheet cause I change parts and lubes so often it is hard to keep track of it. I just set the car up for the track or place I am at that moment. Every terrain and environment and what I demand of the car changes a lot. Sorry
@@upgradedrc3697 Heavy bashing, medium speed, minimally rough terrain depending on where I go, small to medium jumps, little bit of low speed crawling. I'm currently running long travel rockers and springs and getting ready to start going through the whole car as it was bought used. Just trying to get my ducks in a row
Ok, based on what your telling me. If you are running stock tires and wheels, then use medium ride height or center position (stock). For the shocksl, I would use 50wt oil with either the black or purple springs all around. Then adjust preload for 1/2" sag with #2 cams and probably run stock #2 pistons inthe shocks. Run 50k in both diffs front and rear. Run 20 million weight in the center diff. Vanquish blue gear rock lube everywhere that requires grease. And if you are running a stock motor with 6s, then stay with stock gearing 15/54. Hope this helps. 😎👍🤙
Travis, thank you so much I appreciate you taking the time out of your life to upload these videos, because its helping me so much. Just a question I'm having a hard time putting the center diffrential back together. If you have a minute can you make a video on just putting that back together the correct way because I'm stuck there. Thanks again man keep bashing bud.
Amazing video! Very informative! I learned a lot and I am about to dig into my center diff for the 1st time. Quick question though, did you upgrade your spur and pinion gears? Or are they the original ones that traxxas gave with the erevo? I thought about changing mine up but, I mostly do off roading and jumps and mud lol.
Hey Travis, long time no E-Revo vids how’s it been going? Last weekend we managed to wreck the entire transmission, the idler gear was missing a few teeth and inside the box was looking a complete mess. Sadly the diff was impacted, too so I decided to shell out and get the TRX8695 complete transmission. I wanted to ask what’s your long time experience with the WD40 gel are you still using it?
Why is the e revo 2.0 transmission and design and build so much different then everything else? It almost seems like over kill? It also seems like it was over designed? I would love to hear your thoughts and opinion on this! Hard to fine information.
Traxxas was trying to save all of the components from being destroyed while bashing and jumping. But I agree, they could of just used a slipper clutch like everyone else. It's just Traxxas being different and yes it is overkill with the extra parts.
Didn't see you check for shaft play. Got a brand new trans that needed more shims. I wouldn't use that wd40 🤦♂️. 12 time longer than the original. 0 x 12 is still 0 protection 😅. I set my pinion and spur tighter then that. You're close to half way of striping that spur.
So i went out yesterday and ran pretty hard. The gel lube felt great and reacted good, but iworked it's way out through the bearing and made a mess. I will be goi g back to grease.
UPGRADED RC so it doesn’t work good in the diff? But is it okay in the wheel bearings? Cause I actually went out yesterday and picked up some of the gel lube and used it on my bearings for my wheels and rocker arms and stuff. I didn’t use it in the diff though
Thank you, to be honest with you, it's been along winter here in Colorado and i haven't run it much yet . This Sunday will be the first real test. After several runs i'll let you know. But, I think chain lube will work well. Traxxas didn't use very much grease in mine. So i think o have them beat. But, we'll see how long it lasts. I'll let u know!
To be perfectly honest, I have not really had a chance to test it out here . this Sunday will be my first bashing session this year if the Colorado weather holds out! After several runs I will let all now!
So i went out yeasterday and ran pretty hard. I like the way the gel lube made it feel and react, but it worked it's way out and made a mess. I will go back to the grease.
So ERevo 2.0 have center diff like all truggy’s profesional kits like team losi, assiciated, durango, serpent mugem and other? Why ERevo is monster truck carhegory not truggy what is the diffrent?
It's mostly because of the tires. E Revo is basically a truggy with monster truck tires. The dedicated racing truggies out there are also made specifically for racing (as opposed to bashing) so they're lighter and built to easily access things you need to access on a regular basis when racing.
Why bother removing the motor on the car? You can take the gearbox out while leaving the motor in. And you can take some pliers to push the bullets in to be a normal pressure.
Best rebuilt video I've ever seen ❤ thank you
In the middle of teching a E-revo for the first time and this video saved me
Nice video, very detailed, and very organized.
This is the best instructional video I've seen on RUclips. Wow, what a great job. Had all the details other videos I was looking for missed. Thanks!
Fantastic video man!! I wanted to post up here because (thanks to this video) I found a much, much faster way to remove the motor/center diff assembly in case anyone is looking for it.
1. from the top of the truck, remove the screw-pin holding the front driveshaft to the center diff.
2. from the bottom of the truck, remove the small cover piece to expose the rear drive shaft connection
3. remove the screw-pin holding the rear driveshaft to the center diff
4. use a scrwedriver or something to push the rear driveshaft off the center diff
5. from the bottom, remove the 4 screws that hold the motor assembly to the chassis
6. the entire motor assembly can be wiggled free, you tilt the assembly forwards to bring the rear out first, then the front comes out and the front driveshift disconnects as you remove the assembly
Your videos on repair are on another level. I just watched the e Revo center diff rebulild. You details are critical and clearly from experienced wisdom. Please don’t stop!! I don’t even own a Revo and I feel more confident doing this already. The amount of info your videos are so awesome. Great work sir! Subscribed for sure 🚘
Thank you Sir.
Thank you for the long videos. Your amount of detail is very lacking in all other videos I have seen on RUclips. Pretty sure my 9 year old could do these rebuilds using your videos. Very well detailed, explained and demonstrated.
Thanks for the break-down 👍
I've referred back a couple times now.. and all the other videos..
Thank you for the long videos, I learned allot
This is the best video I've seen about rebuilding diff and transmission of E REVO. Your tips and tricks really helped me rebuilding mine. Keep up the great work and happy holidays!
13:20 traxxas calls it a torque biasing differential, but it’s not. It’s an open differential with so much resistance that it’s forced to transfer torque. It’s closer to a posi than a TBD. Basically, a posi uses clutches to apply friction to the gears, once the input torque exceeds that friction the diff can operate. The thick gear oil acts in the same manner.
.
A true torque biasing differential multiplies the torque the weakest wheel can generate and sends it to the wheel with the most traction.
.
It does this in a very simple manner. Helical gears produce radial torque like standard gears, but they also introduce axial torque that standard gears do not. The axial torque is proportional to the torque transmitted through the gears.
.
So, the more torque transmitted through the gears, which is dependent on the wheel with the least traction, the more binding that occurs from the axial torque generated on the gears and the case.
.
Since torque flows to the wheel with the most traction, the torque multiplier effect will produce more torque at the wheel with the most traction.
.
A locker doesn’t split torque evenly unless both wheels have the same traction and or the input torque doesn’t exceed the lowest wheels traction. For example, lift a wheel into the air and it cannot generate any torque (which is a force that requires resistance), so all the input torque will flow to the wheel on the ground (in a locked differential).
.
A torque biasing differential essentially locks up proportionally to the input torque.
Traxxas doesn’t call it a differential. The exact term they use is torque-biasing center drive. They pulled a sneaky a made people think more of it. Play on words is all.
It’s really a gearbox. The center diff really does a good job combined with the cush drive of absorbing shock and giving stellar handing.
Very helpful video for 1st timers who wants to rebuild center diffs like me. Thanks so much! Subscribed :)
Finally rebuilding the center diff myself. Out in Fairplay !
Thank you man! Your videos really are great! I just did my center while watching this video. Perfect!
wow great video. you explained everything and shared your own learning process. thank you for the confidence to tear my own apart!
Great thorough guide! Thanks for doing this, it’s a real help!
Such an informative video. You know exactly what you're doing mate!! Keep it up.
Thanks for the detailed video and explanations of important segments.
Just wanted to say thanks my trans started binding up took it apart and found that the dif was locked up all the gears look OK put back together but didn't turn when I tighten the 4 screws watched your vid and seen what I was doing wrong big help
The center diff is what controls how much power goes to the front or rear. The thicker the oil the more that’ll go to the rear and the thinner the oil the more power that’ll go to the front. The Cush drive is what absorbs the impact
The center diff is also designed to absorb differences between the front and rear due to shock like front landing first. All of these devices are primarily shock absorption. Thin lube will make these trucks very front wheel drive instead of a basically locked center that only slips under major shock.
So this video has been out for some time and was wondering how the new gel oil worked after you ran it for awhile.Great video.
It all leaked out. Use the Vanquish blue rock lube.
@@upgradedrc3697 o wow to bad well thanks for the video and knowledge. I have the E Revo 2.0 and I like the platform.
Get you some MIP tools and I bet you money you won’t/ wouldn’t of stripped any screws out. I have the hand set and speed tip set (Drill). They speak for them selves and pay off instantly.👍🏼 nice videos by the way
16/46 is a very tall gear ratio, especially for bashing. That’s 2.88:1. Stock is 3.6:1.
.
Taller gearing means more heat in the motor and esc, which means shorter runs before thermalling. Also means the batteries run hotter and out of juice quicker.
.
Stock gearing pulls 100 amps, running a 12/50 (4.17:1) pulls 87 amps, and 15/46 (3.07:1) pulls 116 amps on mine. Current creates heats.
.
A taller gear ratio actually reduces drivetrain torque multiplication, but the extra load causes the motor to draw more current and produce more power.
.
I’ve found that 12/50 gearing to be perfect for bashing. 46 mph top speed, a little too slow for standing backflips, but can do them off a curb. The motor and esc operate much cooler. And you still have great control in the air.
3.73:1 is the best ideal for both. Its nasty!!!!
i run 4 dual sets of 3s NON STOP on my 16/46 and some times 16/50. ITS STUPID HOT, but i have a massive cooler on the motor and RPM covers, i DO NOT have issues with heat i bash the piss out of it full send almost the entire time. having 3x 30mm fans on that motor with custom coolers strapped it it 360* around is the key.
@ 3:22 it looks like you will be needing a spur gear. That one looks a little worn out, and the teeth are worn down pretty good.
I use a tiny dab of axle grease to hold the washer in place on the output shaft when I rebuild diffs. Can you heat the fluid up to make it more pliable? Like, put it in a pan of warm water to make it easier to fill the diff?
I always use a pair of small needle-nose pliers to put the spider gears, and shafts in. My fingers and knuckles don't work like they used to, and I can't get my hands in tight places like that anymore.
@32:18 those on the can are ball bearings on rollers for like conveyer belts, or what warehouses use to roll boxes on to load trucks and such.
I always thought you use 1 piece of paper, and not folded in half like that. Won't that have too much play between the gears? It works great for the smaller pitch gears, and maybe it's different for the bigger pitch gears.
Awesome guide man 💪🏽💪🏽🔥🔥 keep up the great work!!
I know this is an older video, but do you happen to have a set up sheet for your car - something that includes your whole set-up, lube and all. I turn to your vids all of the time when I want "real" info that I can trust to be right and true...along with some of the little tips and tricks. Love your content! Thanks for your work with the E Revo 2.0 !!!
I don't have a set up sheet cause I change parts and lubes so often it is hard to keep track of it. I just set the car up for the track or place I am at that moment. Every terrain and environment and what I demand of the car changes a lot. Sorry
Tell me what you are trying to set it up for and I will send you in the right direction.
@@upgradedrc3697 Heavy bashing, medium speed, minimally rough terrain depending on where I go, small to medium jumps, little bit of low speed crawling. I'm currently running long travel rockers and springs
and getting ready to start going through the whole car as it was bought used. Just trying to get my ducks in a row
Ok, based on what your telling me. If you are running stock tires and wheels, then use medium ride height or center position (stock). For the shocksl, I would use 50wt oil with either the black or purple springs all around. Then adjust preload for 1/2" sag with #2 cams and probably run stock #2 pistons inthe shocks. Run 50k in both diffs front and rear. Run 20 million weight in the center diff. Vanquish blue gear rock lube everywhere that requires grease. And if you are running a stock motor with 6s, then stay with stock gearing 15/54. Hope this helps. 😎👍🤙
@@upgradedrc3697 Much appreciated!
Travis, thank you so much I appreciate you taking the time out of your life to upload these videos, because its helping me so much. Just a question I'm having a hard time putting the center diffrential back together. If you have a minute can you make a video on just putting that back together the correct way because I'm stuck there. Thanks again man keep bashing bud.
Putting it back in the car sorry about that had a brain fart lol
Thats the video your watching. what is the problem your having?
Great and informative, thanks
Thanks, very helpful and saved me a lot of time
Amazing video! Very informative! I learned a lot and I am about to dig into my center diff for the 1st time. Quick question though, did you upgrade your spur and pinion gears? Or are they the original ones that traxxas gave with the erevo? I thought about changing mine up but, I mostly do off roading and jumps and mud lol.
Leave the stock spur gear, but change your pinyon out whenever depending on the terrain.
Great video. Thanks for posting. Question: I have some slop between the center diff and the housing. It that normal!? Thanks.
A little bit is normal. But you can shim it if it's excessive.
@@upgradedrc3697 Thanks for reply. Nah, it's just a tiny bit. Gonna leave it like that. Thanks.
Yes, a little bit is normal. A lot needs shims added.
@@upgradedrc3697 Thanks.
Tri flow is also good
Thanks bud! I couldn't have done it without you. Just a perfect tutorial.
Thanks Owen, I think I used 3mm x 30mm stainless allens.
Wicked video, I had the same problem with screws stripping.
What are the screw sizes you replaced them with. Having trouble matching some up.
Awesome. Thank you
How often should you clean or repair the Diffs on an E-Revo 2.0?
Great video, do you have any feedback on the use of WD40 spray and stay gel lubricant?
It leaks out. Use vanquish rock gear lube.
Hey Travis, long time no E-Revo vids how’s it been going? Last weekend we managed to wreck the entire transmission, the idler gear was missing a few teeth and inside the box was looking a complete mess. Sadly the diff was impacted, too so I decided to shell out and get the TRX8695 complete transmission. I wanted to ask what’s your long time experience with the WD40 gel are you still using it?
No, it leaks to much.
@@upgradedrc3697 what fluid or grease do you recommend, knowing what you know?
Sorry, you gotta be more specific. Where are you putting it.
@@upgradedrc3697 I was following the comment of what you recommend using in the center gear box since the WD40 gel didn't work?
Ok, I went back to the vanquish blue gear rock lube. It's the best thing i've found.
Why is the e revo 2.0 transmission and design and build so much different then everything else? It almost seems like over kill? It also seems like it was over designed? I would love to hear your thoughts and opinion on this! Hard to fine information.
Traxxas was trying to save all of the components from being destroyed while bashing and jumping. But I agree, they could of just used a slipper clutch like everyone else. It's just Traxxas being different and yes it is overkill with the extra parts.
This vid helped more then traxxas help.
Didn't see you check for shaft play. Got a brand new trans that needed more shims.
I wouldn't use that wd40 🤦♂️. 12 time longer than the original. 0 x 12 is still 0 protection 😅.
I set my pinion and spur tighter then that. You're close to half way of striping that spur.
Hey bud awesome videos! You deserve more subs haha but how did that gel end up working out????
Honestly, winter has keep me from getting any real testing done. But , I will let you know!
So i went out yesterday and ran pretty hard. The gel lube felt great and reacted good, but iworked it's way out through the bearing and made a mess. I will be goi g back to grease.
UPGRADED RC so it doesn’t work good in the diff? But is it okay in the wheel bearings? Cause I actually went out yesterday and picked up some of the gel lube and used it on my bearings for my wheels and rocker arms and stuff. I didn’t use it in the diff though
@@AMM0394 works great on wheel bearing .
Your videos are awesome. Thank you
This video is fantastic man. Thank you.
top tier video.
best bro 💪💪
travis quick ? im using 2o million diff fluid on front rear diffrentials correct
No, thats for the center diff. You want 50k for front and rear diffs. Fill to almost full.
ruclips.net/video/sz3pXrTGDdo/видео.html
Awesome video
I never know that erevo 2.0 even had a center diff
They have to 6s it so much for slippers
love your videos and very helpfull,did that wd40 lube work well for u?
Thank you, to be honest with you, it's been along winter here in Colorado and i haven't run it much yet . This Sunday will be the first real test. After several runs i'll let you know. But, I think chain lube will work well. Traxxas didn't use very much grease in mine. So i think o have them beat. But, we'll see how long it lasts. I'll let u know!
@@upgradedrc3697 ok thnx
To be perfectly honest, I have not really had a chance to test it out here . this Sunday will be my first bashing session this year if the Colorado weather holds out! After several runs I will let all now!
So i went out yeasterday and ran pretty hard. I like the way the gel lube made it feel and react, but it worked it's way out and made a mess. I will go back to the grease.
@@upgradedrc3697 Good to know. Thanks for sharing.
So ERevo 2.0 have center diff like all truggy’s profesional kits like team losi, assiciated, durango, serpent mugem and other? Why ERevo is monster truck carhegory not truggy what is the diffrent?
Good question. I wish i knew!
Very few monster trucks don’t have center diffs nowdays...
It's mostly because of the tires. E Revo is basically a truggy with monster truck tires. The dedicated racing truggies out there are also made specifically for racing (as opposed to bashing) so they're lighter and built to easily access things you need to access on a regular basis when racing.
Thanks dude! Mission complete!
How did the wd 40 chain lube hold up?
Not good,l don't recomend it! Lol
@@upgradedrc3697 what are you useing
@@rotz357 vanquish grease rock lube. Lovin it for 2 years now.
thanks bro - very and very helpful!!!!
This video is amazing 👍👍
Thanks
awesom your chanel
About 60 with 6s
What kinda speeds you get on the 16/46
It’s not really a transmission *calls the cush drive a clutch*
Why bother removing the motor on the car? You can take the gearbox out while leaving the motor in. And you can take some pliers to push the bullets in to be a normal pressure.
Bonne vidéo merci
ty a lot
All that is a diff put sideways