If you want to skip the nailing phase and don't need to look at fancy finished ends, get some 4x4's and use a table saw to cut a 1-1/2" deep, 1" wide groove down the entire length of two opposing sides. Set your posts so that the grooved sides are facing in the direction the fence is going to run. Depending on what your budget or visual preferences are, you can space the posts apart at the proper distance to accept whatever length board/plank you want to use. Once you have the posts in place, slide each plank down from the top into the grooves, and keep doing that. You can keep the posts extending higher by a foot in case you want to install something later or maybe make the fence taller. The great thing is, you can add/remove planks and use varying widths and styles to get exactly the look and the height you want. If the city inspector comes along and says the fence is 12" higher than allowed, simply remove a few planks planks until you're at the legal height. Doesn't get much more simple than that. Alternatively, if you don't have a table saw to groove the posts, you can fasten two strips of wood onto opposing sides and leave a 1" space to accept and hold the planks in place. You can also put a screw on the top board to ensure the planks can't be lifted out easily, or install a top strip along each section to create a fancier look .
I was thinking of doing this, but I want a small gap between horizontal planks, maybe about 1/2”. I haven’t been able to think of a good idea for spacers. I was thinking maybe to use pocket screws. Any thoughts?
@@nickgrubisich6367 I did what he describes on my deck for a single privacy fence. I used a router, as table sawing large grooves in even slightly warped wood is not enjoyable or time efficient. I separated the boards by getting a spacer for consistency, drilling a tiny pilot hole on each side, and hammering in small galvanized nails. These hold the board above the next one and are mostly hidden on the ends, in the groove. Honestly it’s a lot of work for an entire fence and I bet would take a huge amount of time. It looks amazing on my deck, however. These 4x4 are prone to drying and bending and I’d wonder if removing more wood as described, over an entire fence line, would exacerbate that. If you did it with 6x6 or 6x4 you would have a cool looking fence.
Just completed my first 24' horizontal run today. Building the fence is a lot nicer than post hole digging. The fence is 4' high. I wrnt with 8 pickets and a quarter inch gap using a wooden paint stirrer for my guide. Looks really good.
😂 I’m that guy down the street, designed and built my own horizontal fence when no one in my neighborhood had one, now their becoming more popular and popping up everywhere, so i must have done something right, all cedar and stainless steel screws and metal post, still solid and beautiful well worth the sore back
I don’t know anything about anything. After watching so many videos, this video simplified this whole process so much more than anyone else I saw. Thank you for this video. I forgot about even trying to dig a post, I almost planned to buy 4X4 wood posts and a router machine to make slits for the panels. Y’all are great!!!
@@SWiFence You are a true craftsman!! This is my second video that I am watching and im glad I found your youtube page! Subscribed! Thanks for the videos and awesome tips!
Great video…I constructed my horizontal Cedar years ago to cover a chain link fence. I used the metal grooved posts to set the cedar in it…perfect. Love the horizontal look over vertical all day. Thanks again for the tip using the tape measure as a guide…genius
What an informative video and inspiring, too. I’d be the first of my neighbors to add a privacy fence but hopefully the beauty of the horizontal look wins them over.
Thanks so much for this! I have been building fence a long time and have never done a horizontal wood fence so this was super helpful for me as I’m bidding one right now. 😃 Also, never knew that about why the black lines in the cedar wood. Switching to stainless now.
Im so glad I found your channel, Ive been building decks and fences for a little over 3 years. I live on an island north of Seattle, Wa. and haven't seen anyone use those Postmaster posts, even though they seem like a much better solution then sinking P.T 4x4's in the ground. have you guys done a cost breakdown on time and material between the two? also I wanted to say I've built 2 horizontal fences so far and I'm totally sold on the way you guys build yours over the way I build mine. I look forward to binge watching your videos when I get the chance..
I never knew that pallet style lobster crate fences were a thing. Personally the fence I like best is heavy duty used chain link with a hedge. Never needs replacement unless hit by a car or a hurricane.
I have a similar idea for a fence, except do away with the fence and grow the green giants arborvitae that I believe grow up to 80 ft tall and 10 ft wide. Long as you got a lot of property that loosing 10 ft of yard or field won’t bother you? But if you have a hill on your property and don’t want your neighbors seeing you or having to see them from the upper side of the property. Then you need something with some serious height to block everything and everyone out! Which even a 8 ft fence wouldn’t come close to doing the job for my property! But you do have to wait a while for those green giants to grow to the height your looking for and the first year or two they won’t grow very much at all. After that though if there’s in descent soil and fertilizer properly they’ll take off and can grow a couple feet or so every year. Unfortunately my property all clay soil so it’s not ideal for green giants that prefer a good draining soil. So for now I’m working on adding my chicken waste bedding as a mulch and making a mound along where I want the plants at and hoping that will give me the drainage the plants will need at some point? Least the soil should be good and rich with the chicken poo waste composting in the bedding! Definitely need patience for a project like this though, it’s going to take many years to finish the project! Thankfully I can already see it finished in my mind’s eye! LOL
Horizontal fence looks alright if you have somewhat level ground to work with. Not so much when you have peaks, valleys, or a hill down your fence line. Much easier to blend your fencing material into a vertical fence but you likely need some longer material if you want your pickets close to the ground and still have a level line across the top and my OCD won’t let me do a fence that you look down the top and it looks like a wavy line. That literally drives me insane! LOL Many years ago my neighbor decided to put up his own fence and started out installing his pockets just following the ground line so whatever the ground did going up and down so was his fence! Couldn’t help myself, had to stop him before he got going to far. Showed him taking a long string tied from the two farthest post good and tight gave him a level line to work off of and just cut the pickets from the ground to the string line and he ended up with a nice straight fence line at the top of his fence. Neighbor thanked me many times for showing him that trick, but it was as much for me as it was him cause I have to be looking at it everyday too! LOL
love the channle very informative but I really enjoy the style in which its presented the light heartedness and the jokularity that's proved makeit very entertaing keep the videos coming.
Thanks for the video. I used this one and the one where you built a fence over concrete as my 2 sources to complete my fence between the garage and house this week. It took me a little bit longer than 11 minutes compared to your video😂.
Man, I love ur videos! Fun, super informative, and just plain awesome. About to do my own privacy horizontal screen/fence around my patio. Never built my own fence b4, but u guys are building my confidence to do so. Oh, and greetings from SC!
My idea for the bottom of those spots is to just trim it out by dropping a decorative landscape stone that has a hollow in it before the boards or just recycle some old bricks around them
If I am using composite planks should I still brace half way in between the posts or would composite resist warping more than regular wood? Great video and channel in general!
I never built a fence in my life. But want to put one up around our one acre land and im glad i came across your video because now im doing a horizontal fence but what do you suggest we live out in open land here in South Dakota and we have no wind break or no hills to hide us from the elements of winter so do i do that spacing between? Because the wind gets pretty strong here also im going to have to spray the wood with something to protect it against weather.
You're a freak. Your sidekick is pretty amusing too. Great video, and you put a little personality in as well. I hope Postmaster is paying you well. You're selling a lot of posts for them. I'm planning to reproduce your fence, no gap, and put corrugated metal on the bottom 1/3. Do you see any problem with how the two wood/metal would wear over time? Glad I stumbled on your channel. 🍻
It'll be awesome. 👍🏻💪🏻 You could probably expect to see the wood pickets dry out (shrink) in width just a little bit based on your climate or area. I don't see any major red flags though.
I'm using 8' postmasters and putting them 48" inches into the ground with 10" holes. Frost line is 42" inches and the ground is mushy clay in the spring (which is why I didn't drive them). Can I get away with 4 sixty lbs bag of cement per hole and then backfilling and tamping the rest of the way(clay) or do I have to concrete to the top of the hole? The section that I completed (to show my wife what I was doing) I filled to the top. I had to slow down on the project after hitting a rock on the last hole and pulling out my shoulder. I had been doing real well being careful with all the roots and rocks in my yard, but got aggressive and dumb right at the end. Live and learn.
If you were going to skimp and put gravel or something anywhere, I would put it in the middle. Well, I would prefer to see the whole entire whole filled with concrete. You could put two bags at the bottom, little clay in the middle and finish it off with two bags at the top just below ground level by two or 3 inches.
Great video, thanks! Helped me build an amazing fence! Questions on putting 2x4s on backside : 1) how necessary is this? 2) do the 2x4s hang a bit or should they be dug into the ground a little bit?
The 2x2 on the back is to keep the pickets from bowing, twisting, and warping over time. I'd say it's pretty essential--not for the short term--but for keeping things looking nice in the long run. And no, they only run the length of the pickets, not into the ground. 👍🏻
Great video! What if the ground isn't level, which probably happens pretty often. Do you keep the same height off the ground, or level the top of the fence and adjust the height of the posts? You would notice wavy fence lines a lot more with a horizontal fence.
An excellent question. People prefer different looks. If you've got gentle changes in the ground you can get away with a dead-level fence--you'll just end up with gaps of varying size underneath. If you've got more severe changes in the ground we try to flow with the ground, but smooth out what it's doing. That way you keep to the flow of the ground, but the fence flows more smoothly in it's changes.
I like the idea of the metal posts but where I live they are $50+ where as the P/T posts are 16, sure they'll last longer but I can replace that post a number of times before I get to the amount. Yes I know the old posts aren't easy to dig up and replace but...initial costs of the project will cost me a lot more if I need 3 posts that's $150 vs 50
Great build & awesome video. Unfortunately unless you have large funds not practical. $90 for one of those posts. Didn’t price cedar boards but I’m pretty sure they are more expensive than other choices. One could easily take cheaper option posts and pickets and coat the buried portion of posts with tar before setting. The old time farmer’s used to coat the pickets/boards with a mixture of diesel & used motor oil to preserve. Or you could replace the used motor oil with chainsaw oil which has more parabens.
@6:45 Don't nail your tape LOL sounds like he's done it Hahaha. I found that funny. Nice job I think we should try those post masters out for wood the pole idea i don't really like
Great video and very informative, thank you! I would like to build a fence like this to enclose my side yard. Do you have additional videos that detail how to finish off the corners or how to add a gate?
Corners: ruclips.net/video/PTO3int-lOo/видео.html Gate: ruclips.net/video/lucaRaDp0C0/видео.html A couple more builds it might be helpful to see: ruclips.net/video/RjMYrZPSDbs/видео.html ruclips.net/video/g3cFapnA7mM/видео.html
Thank you!! Using this as my instructional video as I attempt this build this month. Question - you have this at 60.5”, but you said in the video you are building to 6’, Wouldnt this fence be 5’ since you are going to 60.5” instead of 72”? Thanks!!!
Fast and to the point. Great vid! Question - I have a 4ft estate block retaining wall I need to build a fence on top (about ~1ft from the wall). Would you recommend treated doug fir in concrete or these postmaster posts? With the postmaster, I would just be worried that if the wall ever shifts, that would compromise the integrity of the postmaster posts before wood in concrete. Thanks for any input!
All looks good, but, $80 per post is too much. and then have to spend extra wood covering it, I think I'll stay with the old used metal pipes, but hey, don't get me wrong, if I could afford it, I'd buy it. :) it looks great!!! good job!!
we're building a horizontal fence with treated pine and trying to decide whether should do 6 or 8 foot lengths. Any thoughts on whether 8 feet is too long and will warp or whether should be okay as long as we add a center support/plank in the middle? Also will the steel work in softer soils like we have here in Columbus? Great video! Thanks! Kev
It's always going to warp no matter what--it's just a question of how much. It's a personal call, but you also have to factor in wind load, and height of the fence. If your soil is softer than normal that's a factor too. Yes, steel should work in softer soil: ruclips.net/video/mc92svvCRFo/видео.html
Thanks quick question how would you add the middle piece behind the fence to hold the pickets together if you have no access since they wanna get it as close as possible to the neighbors fence
Hey SWI/Dan, do you think 2x2 or 2x4s (ripped) made from pressure treated pine is acceptable as an alternative to the cedar wood just for the nailers? Since it’s going to be completely covered up by pickets on both the front and back, I’m wondering what you think? It seems it would be a huge cost savings and cedar 2x2 or 2x4 is actually harder to find in my area.
How do you affix the vertical trim piece on the inside of the "hat"without hitting the metal flanges? I saw you used a pneumatic nailer which is uber fast if ya don't end up hitting the metal. Thank you for the video!
I see in my area I see them weaving the horizontal boards in the middle between the posts. Is that ok too and do you have a videos on that way? So what do you do just stick a 2*4 or so weaving and nailing it. Does that shorten the standard boards or is it a negligible shortening of the boards?
Is it not a concern how much the post moved back and forth when you pushed on the fence to demonstrate how solid the metal posts are? I’m obviously not an expert like you guys but I would think that you would want the post to be rigid and not move at all when you push on it? Just trying to figure things out before I install my own fence.
Not an issue at all. If the part that was in the ground were moving that would be an enormous issue and would ensure fence failure. The top having a little flex is not an issue.
How would you make this board and batten. I assume just on the first example or style 1 on the front side you would add a picket to close the gaps? While on the back side you would still name on the back side the support halfway.
No no, the sections are usually all the same. We were just demonstrating two different styles. I mean, you can alternate them if you want or do whatever you want, but we were just showing how to do it either way. Typically once you pick a style you do your whole fence like that.
Nice work gentleman. I appreciate all the work into the videos, they are a huge help. What's your nail gun recommended for 500+ foot wood fence installation?
@@SWiFence Ok thanks for the message. I'm milling all of my lumber from trees arborist we're going to burn. I got 20 4x4x8's from one log. This will be the first fence I've ever put in. Your videos are clear, concise and informative. Thank you for sharing your knowledge it helps since most people are full of it. I'll send a photo over of it when I'm done. Thanks for the inspiration brother 👊🏼
Yes. Cedar holds up much better than the other woods out there--but it is still guaranteed to split, crack, and warp over time. Always stain the fence.
![Eminem - Somebody Save Me (feat. Jelly Roll) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Vwa0HenQMi4/mqdefault.jpg)
If you want to skip the nailing phase and don't need to look at fancy finished ends, get some 4x4's and use a table saw to cut a 1-1/2" deep, 1" wide groove down the entire length of two opposing sides. Set your posts so that the grooved sides are facing in the direction the fence is going to run. Depending on what your budget or visual preferences are, you can space the posts apart at the proper distance to accept whatever length board/plank you want to use. Once you have the posts in place, slide each plank down from the top into the grooves, and keep doing that. You can keep the posts extending higher by a foot in case you want to install something later or maybe make the fence taller. The great thing is, you can add/remove planks and use varying widths and styles to get exactly the look and the height you want. If the city inspector comes along and says the fence is 12" higher than allowed, simply remove a few planks planks until you're at the legal height. Doesn't get much more simple than that. Alternatively, if you don't have a table saw to groove the posts, you can fasten two strips of wood onto opposing sides and leave a 1" space to accept and hold the planks in place. You can also put a screw on the top board to ensure the planks can't be lifted out easily, or install a top strip along each section to create a fancier look .
Cool!
I was thinking of doing this, but I want a small gap between horizontal planks, maybe about 1/2”. I haven’t been able to think of a good idea for spacers. I was thinking maybe to use pocket screws. Any thoughts?
@@nickgrubisich6367 Why not use one of the pickets? Or a section of one? That's 5/8" right there.
@@nickgrubisich6367 I did what he describes on my deck for a single privacy fence. I used a router, as table sawing large grooves in even slightly warped wood is not enjoyable or time efficient.
I separated the boards by getting a spacer for consistency, drilling a tiny pilot hole on each side, and hammering in small galvanized nails. These hold the board above the next one and are mostly hidden on the ends, in the groove.
Honestly it’s a lot of work for an entire fence and I bet would take a huge amount of time. It looks amazing on my deck, however.
These 4x4 are prone to drying and bending and I’d wonder if removing more wood as described, over an entire fence line, would exacerbate that. If you did it with 6x6 or 6x4 you would have a cool looking fence.
I will be doing horizontal fence in my backyard this spring but I am concerned about 5/8 being a bit too thin, maybe go for 1inch instead.
Just completed my first 24' horizontal run today. Building the fence is a lot nicer than post hole digging. The fence is 4' high. I wrnt with 8 pickets and a quarter inch gap using a wooden paint stirrer for my guide. Looks really good.
Great video. Everything is explained well and it's great that it's unedited; makes it more entertaining as well.
Thanks so much for those kind words!
Been building fences for decades and this guy knows what he's doing. Excellent craftsmanship.
*Post depths vary depending on your area.
😂 I’m that guy down the street, designed and built my own horizontal fence when no one in my neighborhood had one, now their becoming more popular and popping up everywhere, so i must have done something right, all cedar and stainless steel screws and metal post, still solid and beautiful well worth the sore back
It's fun watching other people work. Especially building a fence. Thank You!
Plenty more of that on this channel!
I don’t know anything about anything. After watching so many videos, this video simplified this whole process so much more than anyone else I saw.
Thank you for this video. I forgot about even trying to dig a post, I almost planned to buy 4X4 wood posts and a router machine to make slits for the panels.
Y’all are great!!!
Great to hear! Thanks for the kind words! 👍🏻
@@SWiFence You are a true craftsman!! This is my second video that I am watching and im glad I found your youtube page! Subscribed! Thanks for the videos and awesome tips!
Great video…I constructed my horizontal Cedar years ago to cover a chain link fence. I used the metal grooved posts to set the cedar in it…perfect.
Love the horizontal look over vertical all day. Thanks again for the tip using the tape measure as a guide…genius
Thank you! All of your videos are clear and concise. I’m in over my head, but gonna do it anyway. 🤞
You can do it!
Just think safety and you’ll do fine.
Safety third!
The Air Gap makes the fence look beautiful!
What an informative video and inspiring, too. I’d be the first of my neighbors to add a privacy fence but hopefully the beauty of the horizontal look wins them over.
Did you put up a fence?
Awesome video, I actually went out and purchased an electric Pile Hammer after seeing this. No more digging for this old man....lol
Thanks so much for this! I have been building fence a long time and have never done a horizontal wood fence so this was super helpful for me as I’m bidding one right now. 😃
Also, never knew that about why the black lines in the cedar wood. Switching to stainless now.
I saw a horizontal fence today. What a great look. Then I found your video. Thank you!
You are so welcome!
"Today we're going to show you how to build a 6 foot tall horizontal cedar"
Proceeds to build a 5 foot tall fence.
Thanks for noticing 😉
😆😆
What? No! These dudes are 7 feet tall. 😂😂
Thank you guys so much! I learned and enjoyed learning; Thank you for making it fun! God bless everyone involved!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for this video. we needed this right now. I love lots of words and explanations in videos and appreciate the content in this video.
THIS GUY HAS TAUGHT ME MORE ON RUclips IN TWO VIDEOS THAN MY 18 YRS OF SCHOOL
He gave you some practical life skills you could actually use to go out and make some money if you apply yourself.
@@thebordernow IM NOT WORKING UNDER ANY WEATHER
I did my fence like this. Everyone loves it!!!
Awesome!
Im so glad I found your channel, Ive been building decks and fences for a little over 3 years. I live on an island north of Seattle, Wa. and haven't seen anyone use those Postmaster posts, even though they seem like a much better solution then sinking P.T 4x4's in the ground. have you guys done a cost breakdown on time and material between the two? also I wanted to say I've built 2 horizontal fences so far and I'm totally sold on the way you guys build yours over the way I build mine. I look forward to binge watching your videos when I get the chance..
I copy paste this fence into my backyard with the top finish board. Looks good after staining.
I never knew that pallet style lobster crate fences were a thing. Personally the fence I like best is heavy duty used chain link with a hedge. Never needs replacement unless hit by a car or a hurricane.
I have a similar idea for a fence, except do away with the fence and grow the green giants arborvitae that I believe grow up to 80 ft tall and 10 ft wide. Long as you got a lot of property that loosing 10 ft of yard or field won’t bother you? But if you have a hill on your property and don’t want your neighbors seeing you or having to see them from the upper side of the property. Then you need something with some serious height to block everything and everyone out! Which even a 8 ft fence wouldn’t come close to doing the job for my property! But you do have to wait a while for those green giants to grow to the height your looking for and the first year or two they won’t grow very much at all. After that though if there’s in descent soil and fertilizer properly they’ll take off and can grow a couple feet or so every year. Unfortunately my property all clay soil so it’s not ideal for green giants that prefer a good draining soil. So for now I’m working on adding my chicken waste bedding as a mulch and making a mound along where I want the plants at and hoping that will give me the drainage the plants will need at some point? Least the soil should be good and rich with the chicken poo waste composting in the bedding! Definitely need patience for a project like this though, it’s going to take many years to finish the project! Thankfully I can already see it finished in my mind’s eye! LOL
Every time I watch a fence video, I learned something new like I didn’t know if they didn’t use stainless steel it would make the fence look darker.
Horizontal fence looks alright if you have somewhat level ground to work with. Not so much when you have peaks, valleys, or a hill down your fence line. Much easier to blend your fencing material into a vertical fence but you likely need some longer material if you want your pickets close to the ground and still have a level line across the top and my OCD won’t let me do a fence that you look down the top and it looks like a wavy line. That literally drives me insane! LOL Many years ago my neighbor decided to put up his own fence and started out installing his pockets just following the ground line so whatever the ground did going up and down so was his fence! Couldn’t help myself, had to stop him before he got going to far. Showed him taking a long string tied from the two farthest post good and tight gave him a level line to work off of and just cut the pickets from the ground to the string line and he ended up with a nice straight fence line at the top of his fence. Neighbor thanked me many times for showing him that trick, but it was as much for me as it was him cause I have to be looking at it everyday too! LOL
There you go! 🤣
love the channle very informative but I really enjoy the style in which its presented the light heartedness and the jokularity that's proved makeit very entertaing keep the videos coming.
I plan to tackle this project in next few days, seems easy enough to do solo with a bit of shoring. Wish me luck!
You can do it!
Like the gapped one better. Have a decaying cedar fence that needs to be replaced and this gives me ideas.
Nice!
Thanks for the video. I used this one and the one where you built a fence over concrete as my 2 sources to complete my fence between the garage and house this week. It took me a little bit longer than 11 minutes compared to your video😂.
Excellent! Yeah, sorry, 11 min is the pro time. 😜😂
Love these tutorials.
Hey thanks!
Man, I love ur videos! Fun, super informative, and just plain awesome. About to do my own privacy horizontal screen/fence around my patio. Never built my own fence b4, but u guys are building my confidence to do so. Oh, and greetings from SC!
Go for it! You got this. 💪🏻💪🏻
My idea for the bottom of those spots is to just trim it out by dropping a decorative landscape stone that has a hollow in it before the boards or just recycle some old bricks around them
Great quality video... makes me want to build a fence this weekend!
remind me of my buddies in SD. Nice job amigo
If I am using composite planks should I still brace half way in between the posts or would composite resist warping more than regular wood? Great video and channel in general!
Thank you! I will have to cement mine in. But I love the design.
Tongue and groove wood prevent gaps when it shrinks
For more privacy. Overlap the top board 5]8" over the board below it.
I never built a fence in my life. But want to put one up around our one acre land and im glad i came across your video because now im doing a horizontal fence but what do you suggest we live out in open land here in South Dakota and we have no wind break or no hills to hide us from the elements of winter so do i do that spacing between? Because the wind gets pretty strong here also im going to have to spray the wood with something to protect it against weather.
Thank you for your easy to follow instructions! I like the look of the post tho.
Thank you for your information; looking forward to building my own!
You're a freak. Your sidekick is pretty amusing too. Great video, and you put a little personality in as well. I hope Postmaster is paying you well. You're selling a lot of posts for them. I'm planning to reproduce your fence, no gap, and put corrugated metal on the bottom 1/3. Do you see any problem with how the two wood/metal would wear over time? Glad I stumbled on your channel. 🍻
It'll be awesome. 👍🏻💪🏻 You could probably expect to see the wood pickets dry out (shrink) in width just a little bit based on your climate or area. I don't see any major red flags though.
Also, don't forget to keep the cedar stained. That way they'll both last a good long time.
Very nice. Always thought about doing this but could never visualize.
I like to see a video of you using those metal posts in a residential gate (wood).
I'm using 8' postmasters and putting them 48" inches into the ground with 10" holes. Frost line is 42" inches and the ground is mushy clay in the spring (which is why I didn't drive them). Can I get away with 4 sixty lbs bag of cement per hole and then backfilling and tamping the rest of the way(clay) or do I have to concrete to the top of the hole?
The section that I completed (to show my wife what I was doing) I filled to the top.
I had to slow down on the project after hitting a rock on the last hole and pulling out my shoulder. I had been doing real well being careful with all the roots and rocks in my yard, but got aggressive and dumb right at the end. Live and learn.
If you were going to skimp and put gravel or something anywhere, I would put it in the middle. Well, I would prefer to see the whole entire whole filled with concrete. You could put two bags at the bottom, little clay in the middle and finish it off with two bags at the top just below ground level by two or 3 inches.
Great video, thanks! Helped me build an amazing fence! Questions on putting 2x4s on backside : 1) how necessary is this? 2) do the 2x4s hang a bit or should they be dug into the ground a little bit?
The 2x2 on the back is to keep the pickets from bowing, twisting, and warping over time. I'd say it's pretty essential--not for the short term--but for keeping things looking nice in the long run. And no, they only run the length of the pickets, not into the ground. 👍🏻
Great video. I think I’m ready to built a horizontal fence.
Texas
YES!! 💪🏻💪🏻
Love to see this done a slope/hill.
I wonder what the price difference is for this vs slipfence vs a traditional privacy fence
Thanks.
You bet!
Great video! What if the ground isn't level, which probably happens pretty often. Do you keep the same height off the ground, or level the top of the fence and adjust the height of the posts? You would notice wavy fence lines a lot more with a horizontal fence.
An excellent question. People prefer different looks. If you've got gentle changes in the ground you can get away with a dead-level fence--you'll just end up with gaps of varying size underneath. If you've got more severe changes in the ground we try to flow with the ground, but smooth out what it's doing. That way you keep to the flow of the ground, but the fence flows more smoothly in it's changes.
I like the idea of the metal posts but where I live they are $50+ where as the P/T posts are 16, sure they'll last longer but I can replace that post a number of times before I get to the amount. Yes I know the old posts aren't easy to dig up and replace but...initial costs of the project will cost me a lot more if I need 3 posts that's $150 vs 50
Horizontal 4 the win, man! (YES, I just put up a vertical and THEN found this! 😭)
I'm sure your fence is beautiful too!
the gap looks so nice..but it sure makes it easy to climb..nice though
👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽 very nice my man
Appreciate it!!
Awesome!!
Great build & awesome video. Unfortunately unless you have large funds not practical.
$90 for one of those posts. Didn’t price cedar boards but I’m pretty sure they are more expensive than other choices.
One could easily take cheaper option posts and pickets and coat the buried portion of posts with tar before setting. The old time farmer’s used to coat the pickets/boards with a mixture of diesel & used motor oil to preserve. Or you could replace the used motor oil with chainsaw oil which has more parabens.
Under $3 for the 6’ dog ear cedar boards at Home Depot, so not too bad
$45 at Home Depot. In Mich.
@@sgtbass64
What a steal 😂
Compared to a 5 dollar 4x4. Suppose if money ain’t a thing then do it to it?
@@razorsharp4205 $5 for an 8 ft 4x4 cedar post? You are smoking crack old timer. They are over $50 each these days
Game changer 👍
Thanks to that one guy
Right?!
Great job, I like the product and the skilled people who are doing this, much appreciated !
Appreciate those words. 👍🏻
Great video man, thank you!
My pleasure!
I’m sold.
Tips for keeping the post level when driving/pounding into the ground?
This was the best demonstration for these post, yet! I just subscribed!
Love this
Great Video
Great video!
Thanks!
Great job!
Thanks!
3:30 Nice tip!
@6:45 Don't nail your tape LOL sounds like he's done it Hahaha. I found that funny. Nice job I think we should try those post masters out for wood the pole idea i don't really like
Amazing. Thanks!!!
You're welcome, Kelly!
Nice corral..
Great video and very informative, thank you! I would like to build a fence like this to enclose my side yard. Do you have additional videos that detail how to finish off the corners or how to add a gate?
Corners: ruclips.net/video/PTO3int-lOo/видео.html
Gate: ruclips.net/video/lucaRaDp0C0/видео.html
A couple more builds it might be helpful to see:
ruclips.net/video/RjMYrZPSDbs/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/g3cFapnA7mM/видео.html
Awesome!!! 👍👍
Thanks! 👍
And i just subbed! Thanx again 👏👏👏👏
Welcome!
Thank you!! Using this as my instructional video as I attempt this build this month. Question - you have this at 60.5”, but you said in the video you are building to 6’, Wouldnt this fence be 5’ since you are going to 60.5” instead of 72”? Thanks!!!
You totally caught that. I said one thing and then built another and never corrected it in the video. 👍🏻
Fast and to the point. Great vid! Question - I have a 4ft estate block retaining wall I need to build a fence on top (about ~1ft from the wall). Would you recommend treated doug fir in concrete or these postmaster posts? With the postmaster, I would just be worried that if the wall ever shifts, that would compromise the integrity of the postmaster posts before wood in concrete. Thanks for any input!
If the wall ever shifted severely it would compromise a wood post as well. I’m a believer in post masters. 👍🏻
nice tip on using the tape as a plumb
All looks good, but, $80 per post is too much. and then have to spend extra wood covering it, I think I'll stay with the old used metal pipes, but hey, don't get me wrong, if I could afford it, I'd buy it. :) it looks great!!! good job!!
Hey you can make it look good with used pipe too! 👍🏻
Great info in this video.. I'm tackling the exact thing this weekend. Does that ripped 2x4 nailer need to be pressure treated?
Not if you're using cedar.
@@SWiFence Ok great, thank you!
we're building a horizontal fence with treated pine and trying to decide whether should do 6 or 8 foot lengths. Any thoughts on whether 8 feet is too long and will warp or whether should be okay as long as we add a center support/plank in the middle?
Also will the steel work in softer soils like we have here in Columbus?
Great video!
Thanks!
Kev
It's always going to warp no matter what--it's just a question of how much. It's a personal call, but you also have to factor in wind load, and height of the fence. If your soil is softer than normal that's a factor too.
Yes, steel should work in softer soil: ruclips.net/video/mc92svvCRFo/видео.html
Thanks! Very helpful
Thanks for this. Can you secure the pickets directly to the post ? Are they too thin for that ?
Can you do a horizontal cedar fence with air gap on a slope with the boards running parallel to the slope, not level?
Sure. You'll have to angle-cut the ends of your boards.
Thanks quick question how would you add the middle piece behind the fence to hold the pickets together if you have no access since they wanna get it as close as possible to the neighbors fence
Feed it down from the top. Have someone hold the top and someone hold the bottom while you shoot the nails.
Hey SWI/Dan, do you think 2x2 or 2x4s (ripped) made from pressure treated pine is acceptable as an alternative to the cedar wood just for the nailers? Since it’s going to be completely covered up by pickets on both the front and back, I’m wondering what you think?
It seems it would be a huge cost savings and cedar 2x2 or 2x4 is actually harder to find in my area.
I would think that would suffice. 👍🏻
Will a center stay be enough for boards that are 7.5ft long or would I need more support than that to help with warping? Thanks!
I think you need some pressure treated for the kicker board at the ground.
It's still above the ground. If you change to a pressure-treated picket for the bottom one you'll have a definite color difference.
would having no air gap cause issues with the wood expanding?
How do you affix the vertical trim piece on the inside of the "hat"without hitting the metal flanges? I saw you used a pneumatic nailer which is uber fast if ya don't end up hitting the metal. Thank you for the video!
I see in my area I see them weaving the horizontal boards in the middle between the posts. Is that ok too and do you have a videos on that way? So what do you do just stick a 2*4 or so weaving and nailing it. Does that shorten the standard boards or is it a negligible shortening of the boards?
Nicely done, but those fence posts are mighty expensive.
Is it not a concern how much the post moved back and forth when you pushed on the fence to demonstrate how solid the metal posts are? I’m obviously not an expert like you guys but I would think that you would want the post to be rigid and not move at all when you push on it? Just trying to figure things out before I install my own fence.
Not an issue at all. If the part that was in the ground were moving that would be an enormous issue and would ensure fence failure. The top having a little flex is not an issue.
How would you make this board and batten. I assume just on the first example or style 1 on the front side you would add a picket to close the gaps? While on the back side you would still name on the back side the support halfway.
Yep, go with example 1 and make sure to use a nailer behind your batten.
Can you demonstrate how to do the corner sections?
You mean like this? ruclips.net/video/PTO3int-lOo/видео.html
What type and size stainless screws did you use to secure 2x2 to posts?
1 5/8"
Hey when you guys dig to use concrete do you ever use a gas powered auger? Or just hand dig (when not using a bobcat?)
We'll sometimes use the small ride-behind bobcat, our MT85, but we don't have any gas-powered augers. It's either bobcats or sweat. 😄
Question, so the next section is solid no air , then 4th one air slots , etc in that order ? Serious question please
No no, the sections are usually all the same. We were just demonstrating two different styles. I mean, you can alternate them if you want or do whatever you want, but we were just showing how to do it either way. Typically once you pick a style you do your whole fence like that.
These fence posts are $ 44.00 each. A typical round steel post is half that.
Nice work gentleman. I appreciate all the work into the videos, they are a huge help. What's your nail gun recommended for 500+ foot wood fence installation?
Definitely the magnum nail gun (we sell it, but we also use it).
Magnum Nail Gun: bit.ly/swimagnum
15-degree Ring Shank Nails: bit.ly/15degringshank
@@SWiFence Ok thanks for the response. Why the coil nailer over a strip nailer? Cost of nails? Less reloads? Just curious about your perspective
It really just comes down to personal preference. 👍🏻
@@SWiFence Ok thanks for the message. I'm milling all of my lumber from trees arborist we're going to burn. I got 20 4x4x8's from one log. This will be the first fence I've ever put in. Your videos are clear, concise and informative. Thank you for sharing your knowledge it helps since most people are full of it. I'll send a photo over of it when I'm done. Thanks for the inspiration brother 👊🏼
Do you have to attach the wood to the metal first before attaching the horizontal wood pieces? Or can you skip that wood?
No, don't skip that wood.
Is there a need to stain protect these pickets? Thanks. Great vid
Yes. Cedar holds up much better than the other woods out there--but it is still guaranteed to split, crack, and warp over time. Always stain the fence.