THEE BEST FENCING DIY FOR A SLAT FENCE IVE EVER SEEN!!!! My gosh other ones don’t make sense and make you spend too much money or have stuff you can’t afford to buy but THANK YOU FOR BEING SOOOO USER FRIENDLY!!!! Now I can get my fence done!!!!✝️💖💕💕🥰🥰
You have done an absolutely knock down, bang up, BEAUTIFUL job with this fence. Thank you for encouraging a single mom who owns a couple of AirBnB’s to build her own fence versus paying someone $4000. Appreciate how well you described everything!
I paid 10 k for a disaster of a fence. now its moving and saging. nows i have to replace it and have no more money. got hit with violation also. less than a year.
I’m going with this but for my front yard, waist high, keep other pets out, keep my pets in yard. Great video. I believe I can do this myself. Single mom.
I LOVE horizontal fencing and this one looks great. Nice work. I might add a band of shade cloth to the inside to block the view through the gaps but still allow air flow.
thank you fro this, i originally felt like i'd need someone to help/assist, but after seeing this video i now know that it's possible doing it on your own =)
Beautiful job! Looks like cedar. I'm getting ready to do mine, have been looking at the 5" dog-ear fence pickets, and it's either going to be cedar, or a little cheaper with the pressure-treated pine. (2 dollar difference) 🙂This makes it look so much easier than I thought it would be. Thanks alot!!
Use shims like what they use for laying tiles you can remove them after. Use a digital level too. You will need shims from 1/6 to 1/4" width. Only shim the side you are transferring the line from. Use a digital level to set each board to exactly level. Shim it so the boards match perfectly. You may need to step away to see it so a clamp is ideal for temporarily setting boards. Make sure the wood is already dried and you have to set your first board to the highest grade along your fence in all directions. You can fill in ripped boards later but that way the boards should line up almost perfect at the corners as well.
Great job on the video by the way is that Cedarwood or pressure-treated wood and 6 foot wide 4 x 4’s would be really strong after watching your video. This is the way I would go. Thank you for making a very detailed video.
Yeah the pickets on the fence are cedar and posts in the ground are pressure treated. Some say cedar can go in the ground but I've seen it rot too many times. Thanks man
Love this! Thanks for including the gate make & install! Just hired someone who built the crappiest horizontal fence ever. If my back wasn't destroyed, I (as a novice with basic logic) would have done far better.
Could you possibly elaborate on the types of wood you bought for the initial posts/the process of graveling and cementing. I want to make sure I allow for drainage. How much did this cost you?
I only use pressure treated posts and the rest of the fence is cedar. Check out my other fence videos and you'll see I premix the concrete before pouring it in the hole. Cost was CHEAP back in the day, but prices have gone up and depend on how long and high you're building
That's a good idea and my first thought but it would block air flow. I'd add a band of shade cloth which is woven and allows air flow, is relatively inexpensive and somewhat decorative (comes in many colors).
Looks great! I do have 1 question, is there a reason why you put the finished side of the fence on the neighbor's side? Usually, when it's your fence it goes the other way around.
Getting ready to build this style fence myself. Thanks for the inspiration! Curious what kind of wood you used for the boards, is it cedar? If it’s not it would require some kind of sealer or stain right? I was gonna use plain pine boards to save money.
Make sure your posts are perfectly plumb, then just work nice and slow to get a gate with 1/2" or 1/4" gaps on the sides for hardware and movement. It helps to use good hardware ;)
whats your stance on good neighbor fence? Are the posts showing on your side or your neighbors side? I also noticed you used regular posts, not pressure treated. Wont those rot in the ground or? I dislike the brown diveted pressure treated posts, they look ugly. But I figured ground contact was essential.
Great things to think about! I've only used pressure treated posts and these are treated for ground contact. I've dug out way too many cedar posts that are rotted, so it's pressure treated or nothing for me. As for "good neighbor" fence style I've always built them that way unless directed to invert it. I think it makes sense and adds a bit of extra structure to the fence on the "inside." If you check out some of my other fence videos you'll see plenty of examples
@@metaspencer good looks, left a between all pickets. only issue I have now is the gate is bowed out in the middle. The top and bottom of the gate are flush to the post - pickets are flush to the other pickets. Any recommendations on fixing on the bow in the middle?
@@richardkraemer6938 Sounds like there might be a bow in the posts around the gate? either way the easiest thing is probably to take that gate off and shave it down either with a plane or saw. Gotta make it fit the gap
Thank you for sharing all your videos. I love them all. If you live near by, I would go work for you for free just to learn from you. I'm a beginner in tree climbimg and youtube DIY. I found your channel while searching tree climbing and solo rigging videos and subscribed after watching the first video. I enjoy watching your videos and found them more informative than most other DIYs on you tube. Thank You and keep them coming.
I can't tell ya how happy that makes me to hear! Super nice of ya to drop a note ... keep up the tree climbing: you'll figure it all out bit by bit then one day realize you're an expert. At least that's my hope for myself! haha ... take care
Can you tell me what size of fencing you used for the slats? We recently bought a house that we are remodeling and it's in desperate need of a fence and most of our money unfortunately has gone into fixing the inside. I love the look of this fence and I think it's going to be cheaper than paying somebody to put up a privacy fence. Great video!
You've gotta look for cedar fence boards and see what's available locally. I could tell you a dimension but you can only use what you can locally source.
I did the same exact thing not looking anything up nut i used decking 16 footers and got a massive delivery and mine was on concrete ao i did 4 foot post on center! We hVe 7 dogs who like to go wild in the yard so we used rhicker deck boards yo get more strength
Horizontal looks great but the pickets curl away from one another pretty quickly. You need some additional vertical supports (about every 2 to 3 feet) on the back side to keep them from curling. Can't beat the look tho. Very modern
@@theoryofpersonality1420 I've had that happen as well with pine pickets in a horizontal orientation. We love the look of those but have found adding another vertical 2x3 to the middle of each horizontal span helps a lot. The creator of this video clarified that he is using cedar pickets so maybe that helps with the curling. I think they are double the price of pine pickets tho.
whats the lenght of the pickets you used? do they sell 8ft flat top pickets? I am assuming your posts were 8ft C to C. If they do sell 8ft flat top pickets please provide a link that way I can buy it!
I know right. Pallets would be nice but depending how high you need, it may not work… or may take 10292 pallets to do a job like this lol check out listings for people selling left over wood pile. I’m not sure if this would cost more to do then the standard Vertical fence
Im finally ready to start my fence but i just noticed something in your video. Did you install the posts by packing the dirt back around them? Because that would save me a lot of time, money, and effort, as opposed to cement.
I poured concrete around the posts with some gravel under them for drainage. In some very hard soils you can repack the soil around the posts, but you're looking for trouble ... most fences built that way will lean over
Thank you for sharing! When you put the posts in the ground, did you fill concrete into the hole? If not, what's your best advice to make the posts steady?
Ringshank nails on a project like this, just to get that hold. And the nailer in this video is an old one from the local box store but I've upgraded to one of these: amzn.to/3ScVtKT
I have a 18 gauge finish nailer. Would that work? I have all necessary tools except the nailer. Have a ……..depot near my house. Want to get it done today.
No I wouldn't recommend a finish nailer -- the heads are too small. You can always pound them in with the old hammer ... just use ring shanks@@steveneuman9830
Hi Spencer, how do you suggest setting the posts for a standard 6 ft. stockade fence? My soil is dense and rocky. Its too cold right now for concrete. I've ready many different points of view on whether or not to coat the bottom portion of the pole with tar or rubber first. Also, should I fill in with all gravel or with the original soil? The rotted post bottoms I pulled out were all rotted all the way through.
Well, there are a lot of ways to do it and perspectives. Since you can't do concrete (note that I've mixed with warm water in winter and made it work), you'll want to backfill with gravel. that makes for a pretty solid connection especially if you go 3' down. As for treating the bottoms of those posts it can't hurt. Also most people will put a bit of rock in the hole then the post just to keep the end off the bottom. Tamp around the post as you bury it and that will help lock it in
@@metaspencer Does the concrete cure strongly enough? Everything I'm reading online says the chemical reaction slows way down or even stops below 50. I just saw a product called Thermo-Lube that you can add that speeds up the set time in cold weather.
@@dlm1166 Yeah 50 is the desired temp but note that the ground is insulative so if you're close to 50 it should work with warm water .... note that fence post concrete is not like patio concrete. it doesn't have to be perfect. covering it over on top will help
Cedar pickets as wide as I could find ... and not easy to find around here! If I had any wood to choose from I'd go with a thicker 1" cedar board just for a beefier look, but the dang pandemic has wrecked the lumber market
In this soil I just threw some broken rocks and brick into the bottom of the hole the keep the post off the soil ... footings are a great way to go and I've done that on other jobs. It kind of depends on the soil
@@euphoricmonk hard, dry, rocky soil and a deep 4' hole and I don't usually do a pad ... softer soil or wetter ground and I''ll do a pad. it also depends on the weight coming down on that post
@@metaspencer On hard dry soil I thought 18 inches to 2 ft would be enough. Deeper on the soft wet soil. Pad you mean pour a little concrete at the bottom of the hole?
Yeah concrete, about 2 bags per post. In very hard ground it can be avoided, but this ground is pretty soft and only concrete really holds the posts. You can see the mixer I use in some of my other fence videos
That's an Earthquake auger ... I believe it was running with a 6" or 8" bit on that day but BEWARE they can break a wrist quickly if you hit a rock. Very dangerous tools and I think anyone who's used one will agree, especially in ground with rocks or roots
@@metaspencerThanks for your warning. What size rock would cause problems? The fill used in my neighborhood is terrible. It is filled with rocks, mostly small stones, but the average size I run into is ~3”. Once in a while I’ll dig up 6” a rocks.
@@dlm1166 The problem with power augers is that anything can stop them, and when they stop the machine can really torque your wrists and arms. So if you wanna be safe it's gotta be a rock bar and posthole digger in combination for that fill you have
@@dlm1166 One more thought for you: Attaching a 2x4 to a power auger and having a second person hold the end of the 2x4 has a BIG stabilizing effect and makes it much safer, reducing torque and twist
@@metaspencer thank you, I was using a framing gun for 2” exterior nail on 5/8” and 4x4” post and each time I’d nail the gun it would bend on impact . Do you have any idea why that would happen?
@@darrinmartin9395 My only guess would be that the post was super hard ... either that or soft nails. Odd. I've never had a nailer fail too penetrate with the nails
The best and simplest tutorial I've yet run across. & Believe me, I've watched many.
Straight to the point. Thankyou thankyou thankyou.
Happy building! You're gonna love your new fence
"The process of putting money into the ground has begun"! I feel you on that one man! Great video. Thanks for sharing!
Burying that $$$ is the reality of fence building -- but always worth it! Thanks for checking it out
Thought the same thing...hahaha.
THEE BEST FENCING DIY FOR A SLAT FENCE IVE EVER SEEN!!!! My gosh other ones don’t make sense and make you spend too much money or have stuff you can’t afford to buy but THANK YOU FOR BEING
SOOOO USER FRIENDLY!!!! Now I can get my fence done!!!!✝️💖💕💕🥰🥰
Good to hear! Happy fencing!!!
He builds it backwards build from top down on horizontal that way you get your height right
You have done an absolutely knock down, bang up, BEAUTIFUL job with this fence. Thank you for encouraging a single mom who owns a couple of AirBnB’s to build her own fence versus paying someone $4000. Appreciate how well you described everything!
Oh yeah, you're gonna love those new fences you build!
Ditto for me! I was just quoted $10-13 THOUSAND for 60 feet of fence (one side of my yard). I was flabbergasted!
DIY time
I paid 10 k for a disaster of a fence. now its moving and saging. nows i have to replace it and have no more money. got hit with violation also. less than a year.
I’m going with this but for my front yard, waist high, keep other pets out, keep my pets in yard. Great video. I believe I can do this myself. Single mom.
It’ll work out great! Dig those holes deep enough and you’re all set
Life is about choices
@@robertmarley8852 ⁉⁉
I have the same idea for my front yard. I'm thinking about 4 feet as well and I really think I can do it.
😂 waste high my damn dog can jump over
A 3 video weekend! Awesome work Spencer!
Gotta clear the memory cards and the decks :) Back out in the garden tomorrow to get a few more things planted ... always good to hear from ya
I LOVE horizontal fencing and this one looks great. Nice work. I might add a band of shade cloth to the inside to block the view through the gaps but still allow air flow.
That cloth sounds like a nice touch -- smart!
You somehow knew I have this project do. This is perfect! Thanks!
Good luck with it -- you're gonna love the new fence
I'm doing one right now for a client. They love it, neighbors want me to bid theirs tomorrow.
Good to hear -- one good fence sells three more, it seems.
Thank you so much for this. I’m doing a fence for the first time and this was so helpful
Excellent. Good luck!
@@metaspencer I would really like the plans for this but the link above doesn't seem to lead to it.
@@mightyheididreamwarrior7518 sorry but i haven't developed these plans yet
@@metaspencer that would explain why I couldn’t find them 😂😂😂. Thanks
@@metaspencerwhat nail gun would you recommend for this?
thank you fro this, i originally felt like i'd need someone to help/assist, but after seeing this video i now know that it's possible doing it on your own =)
Oh yeah it's easier than you'd think ... just go slow and keep things in order. You'll do great!
Beautiful job! Looks like cedar. I'm getting ready to do mine, have been looking at the 5" dog-ear fence pickets, and it's either going to be cedar, or a little cheaper with the pressure-treated pine. (2 dollar difference)
🙂This makes it look so much easier than I thought it would be. Thanks alot!!
Yeah I try to always use cedar --- it doesn't warp over time like that pine can. More expensive but worth it
Beautiful end product...you really make it look so simple! Tanks for the video
Thanks for that!
I absolutely LOVE THIS FENCE ! I bel i will use this design next year. Very very impresive.
Good to hear! You're gonna love your version of it
Use shims like what they use for laying tiles you can remove them after. Use a digital level too. You will need shims from 1/6 to 1/4" width. Only shim the side you are transferring the line from. Use a digital level to set each board to exactly level. Shim it so the boards match perfectly. You may need to step away to see it so a clamp is ideal for temporarily setting boards. Make sure the wood is already dried and you have to set your first board to the highest grade along your fence in all directions. You can fill in ripped boards later but that way the boards should line up almost perfect at the corners as well.
cool methods bro
Great job on the video by the way is that Cedarwood or pressure-treated wood and 6 foot wide 4 x 4’s would be really strong after watching your video. This is the way I would go. Thank you for making a very detailed video.
Yeah the pickets on the fence are cedar and posts in the ground are pressure treated. Some say cedar can go in the ground but I've seen it rot too many times. Thanks man
Love this! Thanks for including the gate make & install!
Just hired someone who built the crappiest horizontal fence ever. If my back wasn't destroyed, I (as a novice with basic logic) would have done far better.
Thanks for checking it out. I hope that build works out for ya
from the Netherlands thanks for the video Spancer
Thanks my man
Wow..Nice job. It has inspired me to do make one. I would like to have a 7ft fence for privacy in my backyard.
You’re gonna love it
This video is so helpful. Thank you so much for sharing!!
Good to hear, and good luck with that fence! It's gonna be great
Could you possibly elaborate on the types of wood you bought for the initial posts/the process of graveling and cementing. I want to make sure I allow for drainage. How much did this cost you?
I only use pressure treated posts and the rest of the fence is cedar. Check out my other fence videos and you'll see I premix the concrete before pouring it in the hole. Cost was CHEAP back in the day, but prices have gone up and depend on how long and high you're building
You give me confidence, thanks!
Oh yeah, you can do it! It'll work out great!
Fence looks great but if you want it more private you could put 1x3's on the inside gaps for full coverage.
absolutely. good idea!
That's a good idea and my first thought but it would block air flow. I'd add a band of shade cloth which is woven and allows air flow, is relatively inexpensive and somewhat decorative (comes in many colors).
Nice fence. Now I realize why my son's gate latch doesn't work right. The previous owner, or the builder, installed it upside down
gotta stand on your head to open that one :)
Hello. Thanks for sharing! Did you use the same pickets that you took down?
Similar… cedar pickets
Looks great! I do have 1 question, is there a reason why you put the finished side of the fence on the neighbor's side? Usually, when it's your fence it goes the other way around.
Interesting that it works that way in your region
@@metaspencer It's done that way for a couple of reasons, curb appeal, and so people can't climb up on the fence and look over. Looks great though.
Getting ready to build this style fence myself. Thanks for the inspiration! Curious what kind of wood you used for the boards, is it cedar? If it’s not it would require some kind of sealer or stain right? I was gonna use plain pine boards to save money.
Yea I use cedar. Pine tends to warp over time in the weather
Nice looking fence.
Thanks for taking a peek :)
Holy smokes you are efficient as ish man, good work. Probably do this but with aluminum poles instead
Sounds like a good idea!
Looks great! How is it holding up, curious if the slats have bowed at all? We plan to do this fence this spring!
go with 6' spans and cedar slats and you should be in good shape
How’d you get the gate so perfect? How do you align it so right? Tips please!
Make sure your posts are perfectly plumb, then just work nice and slow to get a gate with 1/2" or 1/4" gaps on the sides for hardware and movement. It helps to use good hardware ;)
Thank you!!
whats your stance on good neighbor fence? Are the posts showing on your side or your neighbors side? I also noticed you used regular posts, not pressure treated. Wont those rot in the ground or? I dislike the brown diveted pressure treated posts, they look ugly. But I figured ground contact was essential.
Great things to think about! I've only used pressure treated posts and these are treated for ground contact. I've dug out way too many cedar posts that are rotted, so it's pressure treated or nothing for me. As for "good neighbor" fence style I've always built them that way unless directed to invert it. I think it makes sense and adds a bit of extra structure to the fence on the "inside." If you check out some of my other fence videos you'll see plenty of examples
Declination? !!!! I like it!
dunno where that came from! probably dehydrated that day :)
Do you think it would've worked with no spacing between the cedar planks?
Yes but wood always expands and contracts
@@metaspencer good looks, left a between all pickets. only issue I have now is the gate is bowed out in the middle. The top and bottom of the gate are flush to the post - pickets are flush to the other pickets. Any recommendations on fixing on the bow in the middle?
@@richardkraemer6938 Sounds like there might be a bow in the posts around the gate? either way the easiest thing is probably to take that gate off and shave it down either with a plane or saw. Gotta make it fit the gap
A little bit of Funk! I know all about that!!
You know alllll about the funk! :)
Is there a reason to use nails over screws for the boards? Great job btw. 🤙🏻
Outdoor rated screws are great, but ring shank nails hold well and are cheaper
Amazing.where you get pickets at?
cedar high quality stuff is the way to go ... our lumber yards carry them
Hi there,what type and size of nail gun did you used? What size nails?
ring shank nails ... framing nailer
Which is better-starting the slats from the bottom up or top down?
either way works ... depends on how you want it to look up top or on the bottom as you may have a half-slat
That wood got to be expensive I looked at wood like that at home Depot & Lowe's going for 18$ -26$ each.
Thank you for sharing all your videos. I love them all. If you live near by, I would go work for you for free just to learn from you. I'm a beginner in tree climbimg and youtube DIY. I found your channel while searching tree climbing and solo rigging videos and subscribed after watching the first video. I enjoy watching your videos and found them more informative than most other DIYs on you tube. Thank You and keep them coming.
I can't tell ya how happy that makes me to hear! Super nice of ya to drop a note ... keep up the tree climbing: you'll figure it all out bit by bit then one day realize you're an expert. At least that's my hope for myself! haha ... take care
Thank you, great project. Could you have used concrete for the posts?
Yep used concrete in the holes
@@metaspencer you rock!!
Can you tell me what size of fencing you used for the slats? We recently bought a house that we are remodeling and it's in desperate need of a fence and most of our money unfortunately has gone into fixing the inside. I love the look of this fence and I think it's going to be cheaper than paying somebody to put up a privacy fence. Great video!
You've gotta look for cedar fence boards and see what's available locally. I could tell you a dimension but you can only use what you can locally source.
I'm going to use pallets :)
Nice video guide! How long do I have to wait to be able to stain this kind of fence?
Cedar is usually dry and ready for stain when buy it
I did the same exact thing not looking anything up nut i used decking 16 footers and got a massive delivery and mine was on concrete ao i did 4 foot post on center! We hVe 7 dogs who like to go wild in the yard so we used rhicker deck boards yo get more strength
Sounds like a great idea!
What kind of lumber did you use? looks like Cedar dog ear fence boards trimmed?
Yep cedar … Pressure treated for the posts
Nice I like
Horizontal looks great but the pickets curl away from one another pretty quickly. You need some additional vertical supports (about every 2 to 3 feet) on the back side to keep them from curling. Can't beat the look tho. Very modern
I've seen curling with pine but cedar tends to stay pretty straight over the years.
I have a regular wooden fence and some of the pickets are warping and pulling away.
@@theoryofpersonality1420 I've had that happen as well with pine pickets in a horizontal orientation. We love the look of those but have found adding another vertical 2x3 to the middle of each horizontal span helps a lot. The creator of this video clarified that he is using cedar pickets so maybe that helps with the curling. I think they are double the price of pine pickets tho.
@@theoryofpersonality1420 That's pretty common, especially with pine pressure treated boards
@@willyfromthehillies I live in Louisiana. I think I'm going to have to replace them a few at a time to cedar. Thanks.
whats the lenght of the pickets you used? do they sell 8ft flat top pickets? I am assuming your posts were 8ft C to C. If they do sell 8ft flat top pickets please provide a link that way I can buy it!
in this case the posts are 10' and the pickets are horizontal about 6' cedar from the local hardware store
So did you use the concrete for the posts at the bottom ?
Yep you bet
Awesome! Ty!
Big thanks!
Thank you brother!
Thanks man
Is there an issue with bowing and becoming uneven in the middle? That is my biggest concern with this design
If you're worried about it go with 6' spacing
Beautiful job, Spencer. 💋
Big thanks! It turned out nice
How much does that wood cost? I'm about to start a big fence project but tight on cash. I may just scrummage around for some free pallets
Check your local lumber yards as prices are different all around the country. The short answer: it's not cheap these days!
I know right. Pallets would be nice but depending how high you need, it may not work… or may take 10292 pallets to do a job like this lol check out listings for people selling left over wood pile. I’m not sure if this would cost more to do then the standard Vertical fence
Thank you-great job!
Thanks for checking it out!
Im finally ready to start my fence but i just noticed something in your video. Did you install the posts by packing the dirt back around them?
Because that would save me a lot of time, money, and effort, as opposed to cement.
I poured concrete around the posts with some gravel under them for drainage. In some very hard soils you can repack the soil around the posts, but you're looking for trouble ... most fences built that way will lean over
What size pickets did you use and how far apart each post?
Cedar pickets 6’ spacing max to avoid sag
Do uou need to treat the wood, or stain it?
cedar weathers pretty well, but stain can't hurt ... just wait til the wood is dry
Awesome job!!!!! 👍👍👍
Thanks for checking it out!
Thank you for sharing! When you put the posts in the ground, did you fill concrete into the hole? If not, what's your best advice to make the posts steady?
Yes, concrete is best and I used it on this project. I prefer to premix it before pouring in the hole for the most solid connection
@@metaspencer Any recommendation if I don't use concrete? For example, dig a deeper hold, tamp the soil etc? Thank you!
@@MingChangCU Yep you've got it: deeper, tamping, and then clay soil holds best. Gravel can be pretty good, too
Nice work. What nailer do you use. And nails? Thanks.
Ringshank nails on a project like this, just to get that hold. And the nailer in this video is an old one from the local box store but I've upgraded to one of these: amzn.to/3ScVtKT
I have a 18 gauge finish nailer. Would that work? I have all necessary tools except the nailer. Have a ……..depot near my house. Want to get it done today.
No I wouldn't recommend a finish nailer -- the heads are too small. You can always pound them in with the old hammer ... just use ring shanks@@steveneuman9830
Do the boards warp? I’m so used to that third row stringer?
These are 6' cedar and straight as "boards" ... that third row is common for stiffening and not a bad idea
I have left over deck boards. Can they be used as horizontal boards for the fence?
Those boards of yours are thicker than most fence boards at 1", but they can definitely be used on a fence
How much concern is there for warping with this method?
cedar stays pretty safe. if you're worried about it add stays in the middle of the board runs
What kind of wood did you use for the horizontal slats?
Cedar
Hi Spencer, how do you suggest setting the posts for a standard 6 ft. stockade fence? My soil is dense and rocky. Its too cold right now for concrete. I've ready many different points of view on whether or not to coat the bottom portion of the pole with tar or rubber first. Also, should I fill in with all gravel or with the original soil? The rotted post bottoms I pulled out were all rotted all the way through.
Well, there are a lot of ways to do it and perspectives. Since you can't do concrete (note that I've mixed with warm water in winter and made it work), you'll want to backfill with gravel. that makes for a pretty solid connection especially if you go 3' down. As for treating the bottoms of those posts it can't hurt. Also most people will put a bit of rock in the hole then the post just to keep the end off the bottom. Tamp around the post as you bury it and that will help lock it in
@@metaspencer Does the concrete cure strongly enough? Everything I'm reading online says the chemical reaction slows way down or even stops below 50. I just saw a product called Thermo-Lube that you can add that speeds up the set time in cold weather.
@@dlm1166 Yeah 50 is the desired temp but note that the ground is insulative so if you're close to 50 it should work with warm water .... note that fence post concrete is not like patio concrete. it doesn't have to be perfect. covering it over on top will help
@@metaspencer That's a good point. Thank you very much for your help and expertise!
@@dlm1166 Oh yeah, hang in there ... you'll get it done :) Nothing beats a new fence!
Nice looking fence. What kind of boards were you using for the horizontals?
Cedar pickets as wide as I could find ... and not easy to find around here! If I had any wood to choose from I'd go with a thicker 1" cedar board just for a beefier look, but the dang pandemic has wrecked the lumber market
@@metaspencer thank you!
@@metaspencer where did you find the pickets?
@@yehudagoldberg6400 cedar fence pickets. Most lumber yards have the, lowes, etc
Great looking fence brother, take care and YHVH bless.
Good to hear from ya man. I hope all is well
@@metaspencer thank you brother, so far so good, lol.
is it compliant with the codes?
that depends on your area; in this location the heigh limit is 8' but you need to check your ordinances
Did you pour little concrete footings for the 4x4's? How far down did you go? thanks
In this soil I just threw some broken rocks and brick into the bottom of the hole the keep the post off the soil ... footings are a great way to go and I've done that on other jobs. It kind of depends on the soil
@@metaspencer Couldn't see that last part of your message. Left on depends on..
@@euphoricmonk hard, dry, rocky soil and a deep 4' hole and I don't usually do a pad ... softer soil or wetter ground and I''ll do a pad. it also depends on the weight coming down on that post
@@metaspencer On hard dry soil I thought 18 inches to 2 ft would be enough. Deeper on the soft wet soil. Pad you mean pour a little concrete at the bottom of the hole?
Depth of hole depends on frost line in your area. 3’ is ideal for fences so they don’t tip over
Curious how many dog ears did you need? Thanks.
depends on your height and length ... just gotta do the math
:09 looks like the hardest part to me!
haha ... yeah, took some tuggin!
I have never gotten seasoned fence boards ,,spacing green lumber ? bad idea
fortunately that cedar comes dry as a bone
3:28
[ neighbor ] Hey, where’s all the extra water come from? 🤨
YOu said it man! haha ...
Really nice!
Money in the ground, ha!
That's the truth of it these days :)
How wide apart are your fence posts on this? 8feet?
on horizontal fences I go with 6' or narrower just to avoid sag. 8' for regular spans
Did I miss it? Like what type of wood to buy
Cedar is always the best ... and then treated posts
Did you put posts into concrete?
Yeah concrete, about 2 bags per post. In very hard ground it can be avoided, but this ground is pretty soft and only concrete really holds the posts. You can see the mixer I use in some of my other fence videos
What boards did you use sideways and how long were they ?
Those boards are cedar, 6' long ... over that length can cause sag on a horizontal fence
what type of wood is the horizontal wood pieces? Is it treated? cedar?
Cedar. You can use treated wood but I prefer cedar ... nice wood
Should build with metal poles. Last longer and no need to replace the fence whole.
I've seen that some people go that way -- but it's hard to find customers who like the look of those poles
You also tripple the cost for the horizontal fence that way.
I like it nice and clean
Cutting down trees to putting up a fence just a woodie job lol
It's kind of like a full, closed circle from tree to fence :)
Hi! What auger are you using or that you recommend and what bit size?
That's an Earthquake auger ... I believe it was running with a 6" or 8" bit on that day but BEWARE they can break a wrist quickly if you hit a rock. Very dangerous tools and I think anyone who's used one will agree, especially in ground with rocks or roots
@@metaspencerThanks for your warning. What size rock would cause problems? The fill used in my neighborhood is terrible. It is filled with rocks, mostly small stones, but the average size I run into is ~3”. Once in a while I’ll dig up 6” a rocks.
@@dlm1166 The problem with power augers is that anything can stop them, and when they stop the machine can really torque your wrists and arms. So if you wanna be safe it's gotta be a rock bar and posthole digger in combination for that fill you have
@@metaspencer Oh man, digging by hand is utter torture. I appreciate your warning on the danger of these. I'll have to weigh all my options.
@@dlm1166 One more thought for you: Attaching a 2x4 to a power auger and having a second person hold the end of the 2x4 has a BIG stabilizing effect and makes it much safer, reducing torque and twist
Good 👨🔧
big thanks
Camping Shelter Video!!!!!! PLEASE!!!
Ooooo, great idea. I'll be out there in a few weeks ... it's evolved nicely over the years so an update would be nice
What kind of wood did you use?
Cedar for the horizontal rails. If you can find cedar it's the best. For the posts pressure treated wood is the only stuff that lasts in the ground
@metaspencer Thank you! That's what I thought it was. We are wanting to do cedar also.
How is it holding up so far?
Great fence ... should last a good long time
What air nailer are you using in the video?
Oh man, it's the worst one I've owned. It's a Masterforce cheapo and leaks air like crazy, misfired regularly, etc. Best I've had is a Bostitch :)
@@metaspencer it looked like the nails weren't going all the way in, I was just curious because I couldn't catch the name on it. Thanks
Yeah it dos that too! Crazy nailer
What size nails did you use?
Outdoor rated galvanized, typically 2" or 2.5" with 3/4" boards
@@metaspencer thank you, I was using a framing gun for 2” exterior nail on 5/8” and 4x4” post and each time I’d nail the gun it would bend on impact . Do you have any idea why that would happen?
@@darrinmartin9395 My only guess would be that the post was super hard ... either that or soft nails. Odd. I've never had a nailer fail too penetrate with the nails
@2:07 you could use a + symbol shaped jig to make all even.......i am an rookie so if this comment is stupid please disregard.
that sounds like a cool idea. jigs almost always make things better
Are u using fencing wood?
Oh yeah, for sure. Pressure treated posts and cedar rails. Good materials make all the difference
Maybe I missed it, but why not screw the rails to post instead of nails?
You could do that but that’s a lot of $crews
@@metaspencer I've large dogs that are rough on fencing. Seems like screws may hold up better.
@@jolkraeremeark6949 sounds like a good plan. they hold much better for sure
Is this cheaper than buying wooden fence sections?
unlikely -- those panels are usually pretty cheap
He's eye-balling it all?
What kind of lumber is that?
Cedar ... had to special order the dang stuff given all the shortages and stuff going on
@@metaspencer yea same here also i thought about getting some rough sawn poplar from the local mill for mine
What is the spacing on your post?
8' is typical but with a horizontal fence I usually go with less so the boards don't sag
So would u say go 6ft on center so I can use 6 ft dog ear fence pickets?
@@zizwehunt1872 You'll be cutting it a little bit close. Would be nice to be able to trim off those dog-ears with something like 5'8" on center
Well the dog ears would be left on bc the vertical trim peace will cover them.
Then go for it!
Don’t these neighbors love each other for having a fence this high ? :)
Every fence tells a story, that's for sure
Good fences make for good neighbors- so the saying goes!
Remember kids, its not necessary to put gaps in between the boards. They will 100% shrink and create bigger gaps.
ya using wet wood my friend? not dried cedar?
That's not how I would have done it.
Thanks for the content.
Keep up the good work. בס״ד
I hear ya!
There is a simpler way u channel top an bottom slide wood in
What kind of channel?