I received a Scout set for Christmas when I was a kid. When we discovered that the couplers were incompatible with my preexisting Lionel, Dad put it back in the box and exchanged it for another Lionel set.
My great grandfather bought a 1130 scout set with scout couplers in 1953. He didn't like that the couplers wouldn't work with other lionel cars. All he did was buy some broken normal lionel cars and swapped the couplers. It really brought the value of the set up from its original value.
I run mostly Marx, and recently purchased two Scout motors by themselves to learn how they operate. I am utterly fascinated by the design, and hope to be able to get both running. This video answered a number of concerns. Thanks!
Thank you for a fair and honest look at the Lionel Scout sets. They are often misunnderstood and many later items are thrown into the mix as Scout items that were never scout items. Also I have a few cars that came with scout trucks but magnetic couplers. interesting mix.
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks what you say is true but not necessarily the truth. Many group all the smaller cars like the 8.5" fixed door and similar cars made for the O27 like as Scout or semi scout cars. Only True scout items had the scout couplers. although many were made with scout trucks with magnetic couplers. I have a few like that. Some call the 200 series steamers as Scout locos and once again were not true Scout locos. Some of the early Scout locos like the 1101 actually had metal motors and are great runners. The same happens with the O27 sets. the only difference is the smaller profile track they are still O gauge having the same track gauge. Many steam locos had dual numbers but were identical. 3 digit stock numbers were issued with O track sets and 4 digit Numbers were issued with O27 sets. Its a common mistake. Lionel did not spend money redesigning wheels and trucks. It was more of a way of tracking their inventory to be sure they had enough to make up the sets.
I own a Lionel scout,got it used for $20 it is the full set. Besides from the couplers, I have had quite a bit of fun with my scout! Not the best in my collection but I quite love running the scout due to it being very reliable to me. My scout is a tank as it survived 2 basement floods but it is still running well!
My first Lionel set was a 1950 Scout with the 1120 locomotive that my father gave me for Christmas in 1950. I learned so much about servicing Lionel locomotives from working on that set that it's still in operation on my layout.
Another thought, back in the day when the Santa Fe had premier trains such as the Chief and the Super Chief, they also ran an all-coach bargain train called the Scout.
The Scout set was my first Lionel train. Later I received a newer train with knuckle couplers and was disappointed the Scout set would not connect. I still have it and it still runs reliably.
Just turn the Scout couplers inboard, clip the plastic pin, and put on a pair of magnetic couplers. Bam! You're in business. That's what Lionel recommended too!
Dug my father's old Lionel stuff out of the attic and started playing with it. He had the 264 and 1110 engines and a few cars, probably from a starter set. Not Scout cars, they all have normal couplers. Had to clean and lube both engine's motors, wasn't that hard to figure out the brush holders and gears. Bought another 264 off ebay for parts, and now that engine runs pretty good, for what it is. Agree that the plastic body 264 is too lightweight, barely pulls itself up a trestle set grade. And yes, they are noisy. Then I picked up a 2026 engine and tender off ebay, and it's a world of difference better, lol. Quieter, smoother, pulls better, working smoker, etc. Currently just have a big loop of track on the living room floor, working towards building a proper platform for a layout. Love these videos, so much information!
So THAT'S what those Lionel cars with the strange couplers I found in the attic were! I was clearing out old unused Lionel stuff in the attic to sell at the club's train shows and found the cars plus a caboose. No engine though. Long story short I'm guessing someone Dad worked with gave him the cars decades ago and they stayed in a box when he found they wouldn't work with the regular Lionels we had. Four cars, sold 'em for $20. I was happy with that. Very informative video! Thanks!
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks You're welcome! I figured $5 each was fair. Now that I look at that catalog illustration I rmember there was a 1011 transformer in there too. The cord was shot, I replaced it and repainted the handle and sold the transformer for $5 as well.
Fun to see . Mine were not scout, but I needed an uncoupling track. I did have gondola, dual stack tank car, operating ore car, operating milk car with receiving platform, operating box car, caboose, and finally the wonderful Baby Ruth box car and a refrigerator car-Pacific fruit express. Hard to believe I remember all this for 70 years, 104X to 2023. Later added UP passenger train and Erie Lockawana high nose in dark blue. Probably a GP 9 or 20. Original loco was steam with 6 drive wheels and no magna traction. I hope someone is enjoying this today.
Being an oddball, I personally LIKE Scout trains. I have assembled a unit train of Sout gondolas, which looks pretty good running around the layout. I also have gathered some of the boxcars, tankers, and cabeese. One of my York Meet junk box inspirations was a "semi-scout" boxcar, to which I attached a Marx metal tab and slot coupler (painted black) facing away from the magnetic coupler, with a #8 machine screw and lock nut THROUGH the large hollow rivet in the trucks. This allows me to couple Lionel to Marx, and Marx plastic fork coupler cars to Marx plastic knuckle cars. And most people miss an obvious feature of these cars. The boxcars use the SAME frame as ALL the other 0-27 "plug door"/billboard boxcars, so you can put ANY boxcar on the frame you want. The same with the single domed tank car. So, hey, if these cars are gonna contine to be sold cheaply at meets, I'll keep using them!
I got a Lionel Scout set cheap at an Estate-Sale (I believe the 1110, from 1949) that was in the 1972 flood... up-to the second story of homes, following Tropical Storm Agnus that hit the Wyoming Valley of PA. It also sat coated in Flood-Mud for 50 years. I cleaned & lubed it up & it runs just fine, except that the motor has a 'Wheer-Wheer' sound as it goes around the track. I recently watched an old RUclips clip on Chucks Lionel and Marx Trains (it was posted about 9 years ago), and his old train made a similar sound & he commented 'Looks like I need new brushes'. So, my next step is to clean it again, paying special attention to the condition of the brushes. PS- I had the guts to open up the motor after watching your previous clip about it.
Very nice video! I love the 1110! I was very fortunate to find one with BaldWin Disc Drivers. And I even put green marker lights to add more touch to her.
I've had mixed experiences with Scout stuff. I have a 239 and it smokes and runs fantastic. It required little repair and restoration to work like new. The problem arises when I need to take one apart. I have a 6110 that I got for a single dollar. It ran ok but I wanted to service it. Upon disassembly the plastic motor was so brittle it cracked and crumbled beyond repair. That was saddening but at least it was cheap. I also have a scout tender, Baby Ruth boxcar and the same gondola you have. I always wondered about the weird gunk on the trucks, so thanks for clearing that up. Have a great weekend.
Wait, people HATE the scout series?! This is news to me! I got ahold of one of these engines that I gave to my grandpa as a gift as he was born the same year the 1001 was released in 1948, and it’s a beautiful little engine! (Though the part about it being a poor puller is definitely true. Poor thing can’t even pull its cars. XD) Thank you for doing this video on the history and truths behind these engines! I’m glad to have learned more about the 1948 1001 scout that I have to my grandpa!
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks makes sense. I’m glad your video explained a lot of the issues these have. I guess I should count myself lucky that the one that I found runs perfectly.😅
Great info as usual Mike.! I got my RMT Tank car from TrainWorld last week from your before Christmas new items video. Very nice UTLX tanker. Looks Exactly like the Menards Tankers right down to the blister pack. Pleased to add it to the collection. Thanks for the heads up and I will be doing a video on it soon.! 👍😀
I had a 1948 Lionel Scout set. Those couplers were incompatible with other Lionel Lines cars. So, I added a Lionel coupler kit to the rear of the caboose as it had no coupler (hooked onto the trucks) and then I could operate other Lionel equipment. Made things a whole lot more fun. Yes, it was a cheaper Lionel train set, but it was fun and I enjoyed it.
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks I donated that entire set to the Illinois Railway Museum along with a lot of other stuff so it would have a fighting chance of going to a good home and not to some hoarder or a landfill.
Enjoyed your video! I’ve always been an HO guy but I do have my grandfather’s Lionel set from im guessing the 50’s. I don’t know a lot about Lionel trains but I would like to buy some track and get it running sometime. I also have my other grandfathers American flyer train set.
I have a few of the Scout sets. One has the original 1001. Another has the metal body 1110. The couplers were well made for the idea they had. It was supposed to be able to couple together just by being pushed together, something other Lionel trains would not do. And to uncouple, a manual uncoupler. Lionel MPC added the side-tabs on all their operating couplers to permit easy opening and the manumatic uncoupler piece (black plastic device placed under/between the rails) was included with every one of the MPC-era sets. I wonder if the MPC folks were inspired by the Scout-uncoupler track and developed one which would work with all MPC couplers.
Coupler tabs predated MPC. They came along with the AAR type trucks in the late 1950s/early 1960s. The manumatic uncoupler in MPC days was a cost cutting move. Prior to that, all sets came with a magnetic uncoupling track.
FYI the Santa Fe Scout also offered economy tourist sleepers. By comparison the Super Chief made Chicago to L.A. in under 40 hours while the Scout took 60.
This was common for uncatalogued sets for big retailers in the late 1950s and 1960s. Penny's, for example would say, "We'll buy 5,000 sets but we have to sell them for $x" and Lionel would find a way to meet that price.
I received a Scout set for Christmas in 1950 and was immediately disappointed. No whistle, no smoke and no neutral. My uncle built me a train table for a layout and I converted the couplers but that was as far as you could go with it since without neutral none of the operating accessories would work. Unlike my friends who had the "good" sets" I was stuck with this. Eventually gave it away and felt better immediately.
Best thing to do is eliminate the reverse by adding a drum plate from a 1061/1062.it’s just basically a brush holder and eliminates the troublesome drums
I've actually had good success repairing 'true' scout motors, and the later 'scout design' motors. Recently I've been looking into the noise issue, and the main problem, so far as I see it, is the plastic motor casing acts like a resonating chamber, so I've been working on reducing the vibration and slop in the moving parts. Reduce that, you will reduce the noise. Right now my test subject is a 'scout design' motor, from a number 1061. This motor was forward only but I have added the rotating drums and parts needed to give it a scout style reverser. The other theory I am working with (Haven't got far enough in this project to prove or disprove it yet) is that reducing vibrations might increase the reliability of the reverser and reduce the number of accidental trips. Adding some weight to the loco would also give it better contact with the center rail, as well as increase the traction. Scout motors are really motors that are fun to work on if you like a challenge.
I've found that my Marx locomotive is extremely noisy, despite much lubricating with graphite (that did help though). I'm thinking that maybe the graphite just needs to be "run in". It certainly runs smoother now!
The #246 has a plastic motor like the Scout line but was made in 1959-1961. Lionel dropped the "Scout" monicker after 1952 except for a single set ("The Scout") made circa 1957 led by #250, which does NOT have a plastic motor and did not use Scout couplers.
I do not know about Scout, but we had in europe two manufacturers we could trust in the 7tees , fleischmann and märklin. altough expensive they delivered a hobby to last years of fun
I have a postwar Turbine. Recently, upon learning that MTH (rip) met it's demise 3 years ago, I got to looking on eBay at MTH engines I wanted when I was younger, and stumbled upon something peculiar. The MTH "baby" Turbine looks awfully similar to the old Lionel one, in particular the old Proto Sound 1 Baby Turbine. Knowing that MTH started out making Tinplate reproductions in a garage it makes me wonder if it's the same tooling, or at least modified. Wonder if it's worth a video? MTH itself is worth an entire series imo but this in particular has caught my attention
First, regarding the O27 size turbine, it's possible that the MTH model was based on the same tooling that Williams used in their own late-1990s knock-off of the Lionel version. I doubt if its the Lionel tooling as the motors and gearing are different. Second, MTH may be described best as "mostly dead". Based on my email updates, there appear to be two different divisions - one handling old parts and repairs, and another making limited runs of new items. Third, regarding an MTH video, it's not likely to happen soon as I don;t own any MTH product save a few odd pieces of RealTrax that I use for temporary layouts. I think MTH products are nice, but their price has never agreed with my budget. Thanks for watching!
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks older stuff on eBay, depending on what it is, goes for really cheap (imo especially for stuff with proto sound 2) the price is more expensive sure but the actual quality you get is worth it, especially comparing O-27 RTR with LionChief
I have an old Lionel gondola with trucks that have couplers on both sides of the tuck,,, one side is scout couplers and the other is standard Lionel operating couplers. It takes some effort to turn the truck 180 degrees and get the coupler past the lower sides of the car body. I should post a video of it after I dig it out.
My pap's train has a plastic shell, plastic motor (with the parallel forward/reverse switch), but a normal coupler, and a white stripe on the side with "237" on it... it also has a light and a smoke unit, so is it like, a really late model scout or is it just a cheaper 2-4-2 train from later on? Also yes, it's VERY loud lol
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks Nice! After I unearthed it from storage I also grabbed my dad's somewhat newer set with a proper diecast engine, then I nabbed a bunch of track and cars and a third engine on ebay... sure, the room I want to put this all in hasn't been cleared out yet, but boy am I ready for when it is!
I got a 237 as a youngin' with magna trac, smoke and light. Still have it and runs ok. Sketchy forward reverse sometimes. I keep it in forward like you.
The differences would be 1) the couplers and 2) sometimes the locomotives had upgraded features over the original Scouts - sometimes not. The #11311 Set was the bottom-of-the-line cataloged set in 1963., retailing for $14.95 (about $150 in today's dollars). The only markings on the set are the locomotive number (1062) and "Lionel" on the red flatcar.. The good news is this 1062, derived from the original Scout #1001, has a headlight and a 2-position reverse unit (most 1060-series steamers are one-directional). Items in this set (except the flatcar) use archbar type trucks, so I do not consider it a true "semi-Scout" that had Scout trucks with traditional knuckle couplers. With the non-operating couplers and all-plastic #1062 locomotive, many original Scout sets with #1110 and 1120 diecast steamers could actually be considered an upgrade over this set. There's not much operator or collector value in this set, but if it works for you, that's all that matters! Keep the trains running!
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks thanks for the info. Apart from the noise the engine seems to run just fine. Got it at a train show about a year ago for next to nothing. Alongside an early post war water tower. I don’t know all too much about eras and types of sets and I’m glad that your willing to put up with my questions
Not super connected to your video's actual point, but I can see somebody taking that locomotive, removing the shell/gutting it, and putting slightly larger diameter drivers on its chassis to make a wheelbase for a custom. Maybe part of a custom articulate or duplex.
Good job nice study of the Scout series. I’m not sure I like the Semi-Scout name any more than I like people calling them O27 scale cars. O27 was still O gauge. Nice job I enjoy your videos.
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks As you showed Lionel did sell the clip on Magnetic couplers to convert the cars. I have at least on car, a tank car, that has scout trucks with the Magnetic couplers. I believe it left the factory that way.
@@richardsobieck9660 From 1953, when the Scout series ended, until the development of the AAR plastic truck (1957???), the semi scouts were produced with scout sideframes and standard couplers.
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks that is true. I have seen them on the 8.5" boxcars as well, I have a video on RUclips about these short boxcars. I am a fan of them. in 1955 Lionel added the finger tab to the couplers to uncouple them manually but when the plastic couplers came out around 1958 this dissapeared on the working plastic couplers. I think this was around the time the General loco and cars were produced with the archbar trucks so they also developed the plastic AAR trucks with fixed and functional couplers.
Marx is one of my favorite brands, as I have a few examples of their items and all of them are wonderful. However, Lionel is a nice brand as well, and I applaud their Type V transformer in particular. My Marx transformer had a short, and so I bought the biggest, clunkiest, cheapest, and most massive transformer I could find. Now my trains run very nicely, and I can control multiple blocks with it. That would only become necessary if I purchased a second electric train, as one locomotive is windup and the other is electric.
The Type V is a nice transformer, but be careful! The Type V variable outputs deliver up to 24 volts, while Marx motors are designed to run at a maximum of 16 volts. If you run too long at too high a voltage you can burn out your Marx motor. For Marx, I prefer the 150 watt Marx / Allstate #1859 transformer: ruclips.net/video/4Azm-O0VMm0/видео.html
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks Oh! I didn't know that its motors couldn't handle that voltage. I'll be fine, though, because my train will run very well on just over 10 volts. I've found that if I put it on 15 volts, I run the danger of the poor thing leaping off the track and then off of the table (my layout is a loop of track arranged on a card table). I'll have to keep a lookout for one of those Marx transformers, so that I don't get distracted and turn the voltage up to high.
Lionel sold "conversion" couplers which were simply standard metal. Ones that attached to the axles. You just turned the truck around so the scout coupler faced inside the frame, popped out the axles and attached the new one. Np big deal except of course the cost. You could go cheap and just put one on the tender and one on the first car and you could run them at the end of standard cars.
The earliest Scout plastic motors have a bad reputation for wearing out prematurely. The later versions of plastic-body Scout motors (easily identifiable by prominent ribs on the bottom of the case) were improved with axle bearings and oil wicks. I have a variety of Scout locos and they all have interest and utility.
Quality is another important factor in value: I can bet that a running scout locomotive would be more valuable than my Marx windup (which is in rather sorry condition).
Yes, condition is a large component. However, I know that some Marx mechanical (windup) locomotives in excellent condition are far more desirable than a basic Scout steamer.
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks Oh yes, I agree, and while mine runs, it is very, very loud, slow, finicky, the bell doesn't ring (long story, it involves a brass gear) and it is missing the funnel and the entire front. While it's not worth much (at least from what I've seen from comparing prices), it's one of my favorite locomotives because it has quite the story behind it.
AKA a "True Scout" as collectors call them. Later 2-4-2 sets right up until the present have been marketed under the "Scout" name, and it's a bit of an unofficial nickname for Lionel's 2-4-2 locos. As for all the hate, some of it was because the cost-cutting, but I'd wager most of comes from the snob factor.
I think I have all versions of the scout cars. All the different colors. I do not have a real scout engine, I will look for one.Maybe I will build a TMCC scout engine. I built a 1666 prewar engine for my prewar 2600 cars (runs great).
You forgot the 6110 smoker.almost none will run.I think the current drag for the smoke element was just too much.I’ve made mine work fine but with a lot of effort.Also the drums tend to get lost in no man’s land where they will not move at all.later scouts had material removed from the drum area where you could use a toothpick to advance the drums.earlier ones had a hole drilled in the side and on the drum faceplate to enabling manual movement of the drums.Once you learn the tricks,they run just fine….and like you said ,leave locked in the forward direction forget about reverse
Only with the 3/16 scale line. Lionel was content to leave Marx alone with the low-budget battery or mechanical sets because those families were never going to be Lionel customers anyway.
Lionel wanted to drive marks out of the toy train business. Lionel's scoutline of locomotives and cars were sheer garbage. The engines low reliability and they were unserviceable and on rebuildable. They disparage Lionel's reputation quality trains and she really should have left the low end of the toy train Market to marks.
That would be "Marx". Lionel and American Flyer put together couldn't run them out of the train business, Marx outsold them both by a wide margain. Simply put, Marx trains and accessories were significantly cheaper, and the mechanisms are superb, pretty close to bulletproof.
Lionel NEEDS to make something like this again let's say 4-4-2 with a medium sized tender Like 3 cheaper freight cars and w caboose loop of track and a ac transformer that is only powerful enough to drive the train around the loop. Menards is going to beat them to it!
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks I payed $200 for my Bluetooth 0-8-0 set and love it but they could easily make a $150 lioncheif set (but please not with the scout they runied the scout with lioncheif the tender connection looks horrible)
THE LIMITATIONS OF PRE 1995 MODELS ! As a Professional Modeller & a real life Railway Mechanical Engineer, I can confirm that these old models are Junk only fit in today's world for the Garbage can. They have coarse scale wheels which won't work on modern finescale track, and very crude and limited detail, much of which is itself overscale or even totally unrealistic. At the time of their production the tooling was of course itself very crude, and totally unlike modern methods of the Worlds best ranges. Virtually all the top 10 super-detailed highest quality ranges are Japanese. Including: Tomix, Kato, Green Max, Hasegawa, Micro Ace & Modemo. But note, the Japanese only apply all the latest technology to their own Japanese outline ranges, NOT export products such as Kato's U.S, outline models !! As a taster of what Japanese outline models now include as standard are: 5 pole skew armature motors; Real life fully functioning couplings including Knuckle & Scharfenburg types; Illuminated rotating destination blinds; Automatic self uncoupling on many locomotives; Fine scale wheels, & flanges to match the internationally agreed (Post 1995) reductions in rail and flange sizes, so that models run far more fluently with fewer derailments; Teflon coated frictionless gearing requiring NO oil or grease (except motor bearings). Super-detailing using Computer Cad Nam software on computer controlled Laser 3D machinery; Every rivet of the real loco can now be replicated, even on N scale models, at no extra cost. Which due to the huge batch production runs of Japanese outline models means you literally get Rolls-Royce's at Ford prices !!!! One final note, the Japanese are still highly resistant to Digital Command Control (DCC) for the simple reason they have more realistic electrical methods of controlling model trains. DCC is unfortunately locked in a "Time Warp" as the electrical methods used are fine in replicating American Railroad CTC mehtods which on many European & Japanese Railways are prohibited. Most railways outside the USA use proper Block Signalling methods as most lines have a mix of passenger & freight.
Well, scale models and toy trains are different animals, although some of today's high-end models attempt to meet scale standards with as few compromises for 3-rail as possible. In terms of scale fidelity, Scout locomotives were not even up to the Prewar standards of the Lionel 700E Hudson. But in comparison to contemporary stater set toy locomotives such as those made by Marx, Lionel's Scout locomotives held up fairly well.
Lionel was cheap and penny-pinching he would spend a dollar to save a dime. He would leave the decals off the piano at 3 on the nose but you could buy them but you have to pay postage both ways and the postage was more than the decals. Wayne Williams reproduce the B&O yeah three they painted them without the nose emblems because that's the way Lionel had them.
@@WesternOhioInterurbanHistory But if they did that they could not advertise operating couplers and Marx would have the advantage at that price point. It was all about coming up with something that was both cheap AND operable. In hindsight we can say they chose the wrong direction, but at the time the compromise made sense. Thanks for your comments!
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I received a Scout set for Christmas when I was a kid. When we discovered that the couplers were incompatible with my preexisting Lionel, Dad put it back in the box and exchanged it for another Lionel set.
My great grandfather bought a 1130 scout set with scout couplers in 1953. He didn't like that the couplers wouldn't work with other lionel cars. All he did was buy some broken normal lionel cars and swapped the couplers. It really brought the value of the set up from its original value.
I run mostly Marx, and recently purchased two Scout motors by themselves to learn how they operate. I am utterly fascinated by the design, and hope to be able to get both running. This video answered a number of concerns. Thanks!
Happy to help! There's a lot of engineering that went into the plastic Scout motor!
THANK YOU for being accurate as to what is, and isn't a Scout!
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for a fair and honest look at the Lionel Scout sets. They are often misunnderstood and many later items are thrown into the mix as Scout items that were never scout items. Also I have a few cars that came with scout trucks but magnetic couplers. interesting mix.
These hybrid cars are generally known as "semi Scouts" They continued until the mostly-plastic (then all-plastic) knuckle couplers came along.
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks what you say is true but not necessarily the truth. Many group all the smaller cars like the 8.5" fixed door and similar cars made for the O27 like as Scout or semi scout cars. Only True scout items had the scout couplers. although many were made with scout trucks with magnetic couplers. I have a few like that. Some call the 200 series steamers as Scout locos and once again were not true Scout locos. Some of the early Scout locos like the 1101 actually had metal motors and are great runners. The same happens with the O27 sets. the only difference is the smaller profile track they are still O gauge having the same track gauge. Many steam locos had dual numbers but were identical. 3 digit stock numbers were issued with O track sets and 4 digit Numbers were issued with O27 sets. Its a common mistake. Lionel did not spend money redesigning wheels and trucks. It was more of a way of tracking their inventory to be sure they had enough to make up the sets.
Fantastic job on the video, like you said, they're great for grandkids training purposes.
I have learned quite a few things from your video and I have been in the hobby since I was like 5 so its safe to say I'm now subscribed.
Thanks, and welcome aboard!!
I own a Lionel scout,got it used for $20 it is the full set. Besides from the couplers, I have had quite a bit of fun with my scout! Not the best in my collection but I quite love running the scout due to it being very reliable to me. My scout is a tank as it survived 2 basement floods but it is still running well!
My first Lionel set was a 1950 Scout with the 1120 locomotive that my father gave me for Christmas in 1950. I learned so much about servicing Lionel locomotives from working on that set that it's still in operation on my layout.
Thanks for sharing!
Another thought, back in the day when the Santa Fe had premier trains such as the Chief and the Super Chief, they also ran an all-coach bargain train called the Scout.
Very informative. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience.
Thanks for the compliment!
The Scout set was my first Lionel train. Later I received a newer train with knuckle couplers and was disappointed the Scout set would not connect. I still have it and it still runs reliably.
It's a keeper!
Just turn the Scout couplers inboard, clip the plastic pin, and put on a pair of magnetic couplers. Bam! You're in business. That's what Lionel recommended too!
Dug my father's old Lionel stuff out of the attic and started playing with it. He had the 264 and 1110 engines and a few cars, probably from a starter set. Not Scout cars, they all have normal couplers. Had to clean and lube both engine's motors, wasn't that hard to figure out the brush holders and gears. Bought another 264 off ebay for parts, and now that engine runs pretty good, for what it is. Agree that the plastic body 264 is too lightweight, barely pulls itself up a trestle set grade. And yes, they are noisy. Then I picked up a 2026 engine and tender off ebay, and it's a world of difference better, lol. Quieter, smoother, pulls better, working smoker, etc. Currently just have a big loop of track on the living room floor, working towards building a proper platform for a layout. Love these videos, so much information!
Thanks for watching and for the comments. Glad you are keeping the trains running!
So THAT'S what those Lionel cars with the strange couplers I found in the attic were! I was clearing out old unused Lionel stuff in the attic to sell at the club's train shows and found the cars plus a caboose. No engine though. Long story short I'm guessing someone Dad worked with gave him the cars decades ago and they stayed in a box when he found they wouldn't work with the regular Lionels we had. Four cars, sold 'em for $20. I was happy with that.
Very informative video! Thanks!
$20 for four cars is about right for Scout cars. Thanks for watching!
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks You're welcome! I figured $5 each was fair. Now that I look at that catalog illustration I rmember there was a 1011 transformer in there too. The cord was shot, I replaced it and repainted the handle and sold the transformer for $5 as well.
Fun to see . Mine were not scout, but I needed an uncoupling track. I did have gondola, dual stack tank car, operating ore car, operating milk car with receiving platform, operating box car, caboose, and finally the wonderful Baby Ruth box car and a refrigerator car-Pacific fruit express. Hard to believe I remember all this for 70 years, 104X to 2023. Later added UP passenger train and Erie Lockawana high nose in dark blue. Probably a GP 9 or 20. Original loco was steam with 6 drive wheels and no magna traction.
I hope someone is enjoying this today.
Sounds like a great collection!!!
I have an 1950 Lionel scout set and it’s really nice looking
Being an oddball, I personally LIKE Scout trains. I have assembled a unit train of Sout gondolas, which looks pretty good running around the layout. I also have gathered some of the boxcars, tankers, and cabeese.
One of my York Meet junk box inspirations was a "semi-scout" boxcar, to which I attached a Marx metal tab and slot coupler (painted black) facing away from the magnetic coupler, with a #8 machine screw and lock nut THROUGH the large hollow rivet in the trucks. This allows me to couple Lionel to Marx, and Marx plastic fork coupler cars to Marx plastic knuckle cars.
And most people miss an obvious feature of these cars. The boxcars use the SAME frame as ALL the other 0-27 "plug door"/billboard boxcars, so you can put ANY boxcar on the frame you want. The same with the single domed tank car. So, hey, if these cars are gonna contine to be sold cheaply at meets, I'll keep using them!
They're great bargains!
I got a Lionel Scout set cheap at an Estate-Sale (I believe the 1110, from 1949) that was in the 1972 flood... up-to the second story of homes, following Tropical Storm Agnus that hit the Wyoming Valley of PA. It also sat coated in Flood-Mud for 50 years. I cleaned & lubed it up & it runs just fine, except that the motor has a 'Wheer-Wheer' sound as it goes around the track. I recently watched an old RUclips clip on Chucks Lionel and Marx Trains (it was posted about 9 years ago), and his old train made a similar sound & he commented 'Looks like I need new brushes'. So, my next step is to clean it again, paying special attention to the condition of the brushes. PS- I had the guts to open up the motor after watching your previous clip about it.
Great! Thanks for the feedback!
Very nice video! I love the 1110! I was very fortunate to find one with BaldWin Disc Drivers. And I even put green marker lights to add more touch to her.
Nice!
I've had mixed experiences with Scout stuff. I have a 239 and it smokes and runs fantastic. It required little repair and restoration to work like new. The problem arises when I need to take one apart. I have a 6110 that I got for a single dollar. It ran ok but I wanted to service it. Upon disassembly the plastic motor was so brittle it cracked and crumbled beyond repair. That was saddening but at least it was cheap. I also have a scout tender, Baby Ruth boxcar and the same gondola you have. I always wondered about the weird gunk on the trucks, so thanks for clearing that up. Have a great weekend.
Thanks for watching!
I have one of these and I personally love it.
Wait, people HATE the scout series?! This is news to me! I got ahold of one of these engines that I gave to my grandpa as a gift as he was born the same year the 1001 was released in 1948, and it’s a beautiful little engine! (Though the part about it being a poor puller is definitely true. Poor thing can’t even pull its cars. XD) Thank you for doing this video on the history and truths behind these engines! I’m glad to have learned more about the 1948 1001 scout that I have to my grandpa!
Many operators avoid them completely because of the couplers and the "impossible to service" motors.
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks makes sense. I’m glad your video explained a lot of the issues these have. I guess I should count myself lucky that the one that I found runs perfectly.😅
Fantastic episode
Thanks!!!!!!
Thanks for the tips
Thanks for watching! I like your layout!
I still have my scout set from 1963. I cleaned them up last January and they’re still humming.
Nice!
Great info as usual Mike.! I got my RMT Tank car from TrainWorld last week from your before Christmas new items video. Very nice UTLX tanker. Looks Exactly like the Menards Tankers right down to the blister pack. Pleased to add it to the collection. Thanks for the heads up and I will be doing a video on it soon.! 👍😀
Great!!!! Thanks for the feedback!
I had a 1948 Lionel Scout set. Those couplers were incompatible with other Lionel Lines cars. So, I added a Lionel coupler kit to the rear of the caboose as it had no coupler (hooked onto the trucks) and then I could operate other Lionel equipment. Made things a whole lot more fun. Yes, it was a cheaper Lionel train set, but it was fun and I enjoyed it.
I address methods of coupler matching in the video.
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks I donated that entire set to the Illinois Railway Museum along with a lot of other stuff so it would have a fighting chance of going to a good home and not to some hoarder or a landfill.
Enjoyed your video! I’ve always been an HO guy but I do have my grandfather’s Lionel set from im guessing the 50’s. I don’t know a lot about Lionel trains but I would like to buy some track and get it running sometime. I also have my other grandfathers American flyer train set.
Thank you!
I keep seeing these at antique fares and swap meets and now I know what to look for, in addition to parts for the 2025 2-6-4
The 2025 is a nice on. I hope you find your parts!
I have a few of the Scout sets. One has the original 1001. Another has the metal body 1110.
The couplers were well made for the idea they had. It was supposed to be able to couple together
just by being pushed together, something other Lionel trains would not do. And to uncouple, a manual uncoupler.
Lionel MPC added the side-tabs on all their operating couplers to permit easy opening and the manumatic uncoupler piece
(black plastic device placed under/between the rails) was included with every one of the MPC-era sets. I wonder if the MPC folks were inspired by the Scout-uncoupler track and developed one which would work with all MPC couplers.
Coupler tabs predated MPC. They came along with the AAR type trucks in the late 1950s/early 1960s. The manumatic uncoupler in MPC days was a cost cutting move. Prior to that, all sets came with a magnetic uncoupling track.
As long as the knuckles are opened first, operating knuckle couplers will couple when slid together.
My first train was a Lionel scou,I loved it
My first Lionel came 20 years later, but it was based on the Scout design (with an upgraded motor).
FYI the Santa Fe Scout also offered economy tourist sleepers. By comparison the Super Chief made Chicago to L.A. in under 40 hours while the Scout took 60.
My first train was a descendant of the scout line. It had a plastic number 242 Columbia steamer, but it had non functioning knuckle couplers.
This was common for uncatalogued sets for big retailers in the late 1950s and 1960s. Penny's, for example would say, "We'll buy 5,000 sets but we have to sell them for $x" and Lionel would find a way to meet that price.
I have a 242. It uses a traction tire . It's from the 60s but is a clear descendant of these
I received a Scout set for Christmas in 1950 and was immediately disappointed. No whistle, no smoke and no neutral. My uncle built me a train table for a layout and I converted the couplers but that was as far as you could go with it since without neutral none of the operating accessories would work. Unlike my friends who had the "good" sets" I was stuck with this. Eventually gave it away and felt better immediately.
Sorry to hear. That's one of the reasons I prefer constant voltage for accessories.
Thanks, I have 2 scout engines I'll have to dig them out and try to get them operational.
Oh forgot to mention, when running my 1001...I solved the pulling power problem....I just always run 'em downhill.
Downhill both ways with a strong tailwind! :-)
Best thing to do is eliminate the reverse by adding a drum plate from a 1061/1062.it’s just basically a brush holder and eliminates the troublesome drums
I've actually had good success repairing 'true' scout motors, and the later 'scout design' motors. Recently I've been looking into the noise issue, and the main problem, so far as I see it, is the plastic motor casing acts like a resonating chamber, so I've been working on reducing the vibration and slop in the moving parts. Reduce that, you will reduce the noise. Right now my test subject is a 'scout design' motor, from a number 1061. This motor was forward only but I have added the rotating drums and parts needed to give it a scout style reverser. The other theory I am working with (Haven't got far enough in this project to prove or disprove it yet) is that reducing vibrations might increase the reliability of the reverser and reduce the number of accidental trips. Adding some weight to the loco would also give it better contact with the center rail, as well as increase the traction. Scout motors are really motors that are fun to work on if you like a challenge.
By accident, I discovered that an easy way to reduce vibration is to run the Scout with DC current. Thanks for watching!
I've found that my Marx locomotive is extremely noisy, despite much lubricating with graphite (that did help though). I'm thinking that maybe the graphite just needs to be "run in". It certainly runs smoother now!
Great video. Lionel 246 is a scout type with magnatrction.
The #246 has a plastic motor like the Scout line but was made in 1959-1961. Lionel dropped the "Scout" monicker after 1952 except for a single set ("The Scout") made circa 1957 led by #250, which does NOT have a plastic motor and did not use Scout couplers.
I do not know about Scout, but we had in europe two manufacturers we could trust in the 7tees , fleischmann and märklin. altough expensive they delivered a hobby to last years of fun
I have a postwar Turbine.
Recently, upon learning that MTH (rip) met it's demise 3 years ago, I got to looking on eBay at MTH engines I wanted when I was younger, and stumbled upon something peculiar.
The MTH "baby" Turbine looks awfully similar to the old Lionel one, in particular the old Proto Sound 1 Baby Turbine.
Knowing that MTH started out making Tinplate reproductions in a garage it makes me wonder if it's the same tooling, or at least modified.
Wonder if it's worth a video?
MTH itself is worth an entire series imo but this in particular has caught my attention
First, regarding the O27 size turbine, it's possible that the MTH model was based on the same tooling that Williams used in their own late-1990s knock-off of the Lionel version. I doubt if its the Lionel tooling as the motors and gearing are different. Second, MTH may be described best as "mostly dead". Based on my email updates, there appear to be two different divisions - one handling old parts and repairs, and another making limited runs of new items. Third, regarding an MTH video, it's not likely to happen soon as I don;t own any MTH product save a few odd pieces of RealTrax that I use for temporary layouts. I think MTH products are nice, but their price has never agreed with my budget. Thanks for watching!
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks older stuff on eBay, depending on what it is, goes for really cheap (imo especially for stuff with proto sound 2) the price is more expensive sure but the actual quality you get is worth it, especially comparing O-27 RTR with LionChief
thanks man
Thanks for watching!
I have an old Lionel gondola with trucks that have couplers on both sides of the tuck,,, one side is scout couplers and the other is standard Lionel operating couplers. It takes some effort to turn the truck 180 degrees and get the coupler past the lower sides of the car body. I should post a video of it after I dig it out.
I have 2 Lionel scout trains and they run great there still fun
They can be very fun.
My pap's train has a plastic shell, plastic motor (with the parallel forward/reverse switch), but a normal coupler, and a white stripe on the side with "237" on it... it also has a light and a smoke unit, so is it like, a really late model scout or is it just a cheaper 2-4-2 train from later on? Also yes, it's VERY loud lol
It has the Scout motor, but it's representative of the regular cheap sets from the late 1950s and 1960s.
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks Nice! After I unearthed it from storage I also grabbed my dad's somewhat newer set with a proper diecast engine, then I nabbed a bunch of track and cars and a third engine on ebay... sure, the room I want to put this all in hasn't been cleared out yet, but boy am I ready for when it is!
I have always liked lionels scout items, the first lionel steam engine I ever seen was my grandpa's 244 scout type
I got a 237 as a youngin' with magna trac, smoke and light. Still have it and runs ok. Sketchy forward reverse sometimes. I keep it in forward like you.
Thanks for watching!
Is there much of a difference between scout and semi scout trains? I do have a set I believe is a semi scot set no. 11311
The differences would be 1) the couplers and 2) sometimes the locomotives had upgraded features over the original Scouts - sometimes not. The #11311 Set was the bottom-of-the-line cataloged set in 1963., retailing for $14.95 (about $150 in today's dollars). The only markings on the set are the locomotive number (1062) and "Lionel" on the red flatcar.. The good news is this 1062, derived from the original Scout #1001, has a headlight and a 2-position reverse unit (most 1060-series steamers are one-directional). Items in this set (except the flatcar) use archbar type trucks, so I do not consider it a true "semi-Scout" that had Scout trucks with traditional knuckle couplers. With the non-operating couplers and all-plastic #1062 locomotive, many original Scout sets with #1110 and 1120 diecast steamers could actually be considered an upgrade over this set. There's not much operator or collector value in this set, but if it works for you, that's all that matters! Keep the trains running!
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks thanks for the info. Apart from the noise the engine seems to run just fine. Got it at a train show about a year ago for next to nothing. Alongside an early post war water tower. I don’t know all too much about eras and types of sets and I’m glad that your willing to put up with my questions
@@awesomeaustin5704 No worries! The noise is a design issue with the plastic-encased motor. They just growl.
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks yeah, I believe you said the scouts had the same issue
Not super connected to your video's actual point, but I can see somebody taking that locomotive, removing the shell/gutting it, and putting slightly larger diameter drivers on its chassis to make a wheelbase for a custom. Maybe part of a custom articulate or duplex.
Good job nice study of the Scout series. I’m not sure I like the Semi-Scout name any more than I like people calling them O27 scale cars. O27 was still O gauge. Nice job I enjoy your videos.
Thank you! I have always considered "semi scout" to mean scout-derived items with standard couplers.
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks As you showed Lionel did sell the clip on Magnetic couplers to convert the cars. I have at least on car, a tank car, that has scout trucks with the Magnetic couplers. I believe it left the factory that way.
@@richardsobieck9660 From 1953, when the Scout series ended, until the development of the AAR plastic truck (1957???), the semi scouts were produced with scout sideframes and standard couplers.
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks that is true. I have seen them on the 8.5" boxcars as well, I have a video on RUclips about these short boxcars. I am a fan of them. in 1955 Lionel added the finger tab to the couplers to uncouple them manually but when the plastic couplers came out around 1958 this dissapeared on the working plastic couplers. I think this was around the time the General loco and cars were produced with the archbar trucks so they also developed the plastic AAR trucks with fixed and functional couplers.
Marx is one of my favorite brands, as I have a few examples of their items and all of them are wonderful. However, Lionel is a nice brand as well, and I applaud their Type V transformer in particular. My Marx transformer had a short, and so I bought the biggest, clunkiest, cheapest, and most massive transformer I could find. Now my trains run very nicely, and I can control multiple blocks with it. That would only become necessary if I purchased a second electric train, as one locomotive is windup and the other is electric.
The Type V is a nice transformer, but be careful! The Type V variable outputs deliver up to 24 volts, while Marx motors are designed to run at a maximum of 16 volts. If you run too long at too high a voltage you can burn out your Marx motor. For Marx, I prefer the 150 watt Marx / Allstate #1859 transformer: ruclips.net/video/4Azm-O0VMm0/видео.html
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks Oh! I didn't know that its motors couldn't handle that voltage. I'll be fine, though, because my train will run very well on just over 10 volts. I've found that if I put it on 15 volts, I run the danger of the poor thing leaping off the track and then off of the table (my layout is a loop of track arranged on a card table). I'll have to keep a lookout for one of those Marx transformers, so that I don't get distracted and turn the voltage up to high.
Still have my set.
Wonderful!!!
Very nice 😎🚋🚃
Lionel sold "conversion" couplers which were simply standard metal. Ones that attached to the axles. You just turned the truck around so the scout coupler faced inside the frame, popped out the axles and attached the new one. Np big deal except of course the cost. You could go cheap and just put one on the tender and one on the first car and you could run them at the end of standard cars.
Yes. That's in the video.
The earliest Scout plastic motors have a bad reputation for wearing out prematurely. The later versions of plastic-body Scout motors (easily identifiable by prominent ribs on the bottom of the case) were improved with axle bearings and oil wicks. I have a variety of Scout locos and they all have interest and utility.
Thanks for the information!
I had a scout loco and tender once. I quickly found out how much of a pos it was. I sold it at a garage sale.
Quality is another important factor in value: I can bet that a running scout locomotive would be more valuable than my Marx windup (which is in rather sorry condition).
Yes, condition is a large component. However, I know that some Marx mechanical (windup) locomotives in excellent condition are far more desirable than a basic Scout steamer.
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks Oh yes, I agree, and while mine runs, it is very, very loud, slow, finicky, the bell doesn't ring (long story, it involves a brass gear) and it is missing the funnel and the entire front. While it's not worth much (at least from what I've seen from comparing prices), it's one of my favorite locomotives because it has quite the story behind it.
@@Engine1988 Memories mean more than money!
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks That is one thing that is behind every train I have. Each has its own story, and I suppose that every train does.
The second train set I received as a kid was a 1951 scout. I tried to service it and just ended up loosing more parts than doing anything productive!
Thanks for watching!
I was waiting for an explanation for the most obvious feature of the locomotives: the lack of side rods.
It's been a common feature of starter-level steamers from all manufacturers since 1900 or so. Connecting rods are expensive.
AKA a "True Scout" as collectors call them. Later 2-4-2 sets right up until the present have been marketed under the "Scout" name, and it's a bit of an unofficial nickname for Lionel's 2-4-2 locos.
As for all the hate, some of it was because the cost-cutting, but I'd wager most of comes from the snob factor.
I think I have all versions of the scout cars. All the different colors. I do not have a real scout engine, I will look for one.Maybe I will build a TMCC scout engine. I built a 1666 prewar engine for my prewar 2600 cars (runs great).
Cool!
You forgot the 6110 smoker.almost none will run.I think the current drag for the smoke element was just too much.I’ve made mine work fine but with a lot of effort.Also the drums tend to get lost in no man’s land where they will not move at all.later scouts had material removed from the drum area where you could use a toothpick to advance the drums.earlier ones had a hole drilled in the side and on the drum faceplate to enabling manual movement of the drums.Once you learn the tricks,they run just fine….and like you said ,leave locked in the forward direction forget about reverse
Ooops. I DID forget the 6110.
You forgot the 2034 from 1952. It's a metal frame motor scout.
Thanks. I was thinking of primarily the plastic motor versions but, yes, Lionel marketed the 2034 as a Scout despite its superior motor.
Marx was really putting the squeeze on Lionel in those years.
Only with the 3/16 scale line. Lionel was content to leave Marx alone with the low-budget battery or mechanical sets because those families were never going to be Lionel customers anyway.
What!? No horse-hockey?!
Lionel wanted to drive marks out of the toy train business. Lionel's scoutline of locomotives and cars were sheer garbage. The engines low reliability and they were unserviceable and on rebuildable. They disparage Lionel's reputation quality trains and she really should have left the low end of the toy train Market to marks.
That would be "Marx". Lionel and American Flyer put together couldn't run them out of the train business, Marx outsold them both by a wide margain.
Simply put, Marx trains and accessories were significantly cheaper, and the mechanisms are superb, pretty close to bulletproof.
@@Shipwright1918 I know it's Marx trains my phone doesn't translate properly
My buddy just gave me a Lionel 246 and despite the fact it’s a scout pulled my 15 car ore train
👍
Lionel NEEDS to make something like this again let's say
4-4-2 with a medium sized tender
Like 3 cheaper freight cars and w caboose loop of track and a ac transformer that is only powerful enough to drive the train around the loop.
Menards is going to beat them to it!
Lionel has something like this - except swap the AC transformer for LionChief and charge $350 for it :-(
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks I payed $200 for my Bluetooth 0-8-0 set and love it but they could easily make a $150 lioncheif set (but please not with the scout they runied the scout with lioncheif the tender connection looks horrible)
www.lionelstore.com/Christmas-Celebration-LionChief-Set
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks 😬
I replaced one of my scout engine motors with a 2034M ,
Cool!
THE LIMITATIONS OF PRE 1995 MODELS !
As a Professional Modeller & a real life Railway Mechanical Engineer, I can confirm that these old models are Junk only fit in today's world for the Garbage can. They have coarse scale wheels which won't work on modern finescale track, and very crude and limited detail, much of which is itself overscale or even totally unrealistic. At the time of their production the tooling was of course itself very crude, and totally unlike modern methods of the Worlds best ranges.
Virtually all the top 10 super-detailed highest quality ranges are Japanese. Including: Tomix, Kato, Green Max, Hasegawa, Micro Ace & Modemo. But note, the Japanese only apply all the latest technology to their own Japanese outline ranges, NOT export products such as Kato's U.S, outline models !!
As a taster of what Japanese outline models now include as standard are: 5 pole skew armature motors; Real life fully functioning couplings including Knuckle & Scharfenburg types; Illuminated rotating destination blinds; Automatic self uncoupling on many locomotives; Fine scale wheels, & flanges to match the internationally agreed (Post 1995) reductions in rail and flange sizes, so that models run far more fluently with fewer derailments; Teflon coated frictionless gearing requiring NO oil or grease (except motor bearings). Super-detailing using Computer Cad Nam software on computer controlled Laser 3D machinery; Every rivet of the real loco can now be replicated, even on N scale models, at no extra cost. Which due to the huge batch production runs of Japanese outline models means you literally get Rolls-Royce's at Ford prices !!!!
One final note, the Japanese are still highly resistant to Digital Command Control (DCC) for the simple reason they have more realistic electrical methods of controlling model trains. DCC is unfortunately locked in a "Time Warp" as the electrical methods used are fine in replicating American Railroad CTC mehtods which on many European & Japanese Railways are prohibited. Most railways outside the USA use proper Block Signalling methods as most lines have a mix of passenger & freight.
Well, scale models and toy trains are different animals, although some of today's high-end models attempt to meet scale standards with as few compromises for 3-rail as possible. In terms of scale fidelity, Scout locomotives were not even up to the Prewar standards of the Lionel 700E Hudson. But in comparison to contemporary stater set toy locomotives such as those made by Marx, Lionel's Scout locomotives held up fairly well.
Lionel was cheap and penny-pinching he would spend a dollar to save a dime. He would leave the decals off the piano at 3 on the nose but you could buy them but you have to pay postage both ways and the postage was more than the decals. Wayne Williams reproduce the B&O yeah three they painted them without the nose emblems because that's the way Lionel had them.
Maybe they weren't all that great but it sure beats being made in China like all the modern stuff, makes me sick.
I cannot stand the diffirent couplers. The scout coupler made everything worse.
It's easy to overcome.
@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks they honestly should have just made a cheaper version of the one they already used, just a standard coupler molded shut.
@@WesternOhioInterurbanHistory But if they did that they could not advertise operating couplers and Marx would have the advantage at that price point. It was all about coming up with something that was both cheap AND operable. In hindsight we can say they chose the wrong direction, but at the time the compromise made sense. Thanks for your comments!
Scouts are junk but I appreciate an attempt to defend them as an intellectual exercise.