Nicely done. Sure appreciate the time it takes to film and post. I learned just what I wanted and no extra music or distractions. Must be my "senior" status, but I like it. Thanks again...
Well done; the only thing I would add, your cables coming from the hyperstar should be at 90degrees. One coming from the top or bottom the other from the left or right side. Tip from the guys at Starizona. I'm lucky to live in Tucson and be friends with the great guys there.
@astronotna Or just wrap some tape around them to stiffen up a little and bend them into a 60 degree arc across the corrector and you won't see any diffraction spikes at all. Read up on curved `spiders'
Well done, you touch on most of the key points of using Hyperstar. I have Hyperstar v4’s for both my C6 and Edge 9.25 SCT’s. The blinding speed of Hyperstar and the ability to get a project done quickly more than offsets its handful of peculiarities that must be dealt with. They are my favorite wide field rigs. Then when Galaxy season arrives it’s easy to go back to non-Hyperstar operations and have all the focal length you need to play the game.
Do you find the difference between the C6 and the 9.25 Edge HD worth it? Is there any noticeable difference? I'm asking because I have a C6 and an 8" Edge HD and can't decide which way to go. Obviously the C6 Hyperstar is half the price, but does the additional $$$ for the 9.25 make it worthwhile?
In general you will notice the difference in larger apertures when you are trying to resolve the fine details. The larger the aperture the more detail you will resolve. This is especially important to an SCT where part of the aperture is blocked by the central obstruction. In terms of light gather power the 8 inch will gather 1.8X more light than the 6 inch and the 9 inch will gather 2.3X more light the 6 inch and also 1.3X more than the 8 inch. Depending on the scope you choose you also have to make sure the image scale is appropriate or it really won't matter what scope you get. I know your delimma tho lol I've racked my brain on this exact same thing as with so many others LOL. Hope this helps in someway and I am sure others can wiegh in as well.
I loved my hyperstar. I only ever sold it because I was originally told that I could not put a 2600/268 apsc astrocam on it with a filter. 4 years later thats not the case anymore. The one piece of advice I can give anyone with a hyperstar is that autofocus is a must if not you really need to refocus every + or - 1°c temp change its super sensitive to focus shift all fast optics are. You can also sort of lock down the tip / tilt screws so collimation is not needed if swapping back and fourth from F/10 to F/2. Collimation I found using the artifical star the easiest route then checking on Polaris.
great entertaining video, you have great video skills, and taco is adorable, happy to find this, im not even involved in astrophotography, but im interested casually
The OIII details on you hyperstar images is impressive. I was never able to tame the stars on my hyperstar C8, you convinced me to give it another shot.
Thanks for your video concerning the C6 and hyperstar. Have you ever tried estimating the signal to noise ratio you are getting from your Ha, OIII and SII exposures even using f/2? There is a free online calculator made by a fellow YT channel Deep Sky Detail that is valuable for this. Also Brent Mantooth has a channel on YT with several videos going into imaging at fast focal ratios and the effects of narrowband filters. As a consequence of this I use 12nm Ha and OIII filters by Astronomik for collecting HOO data with my Samyang lens. The OIII filter being their Max FR version to reduce the effects of haloes. Someday I'd love to have a C6 but they are like gold dust. Good luck with your imaging.
I actually mount the camera cable guide on the front of the dew shield then bring the cables along the outside of the dew shield then secure them with a large rubber band that goes around the dew shield. Starizona recommends 10 nm bandwidth for narrow band or use the special f2 filters.
My Celestron 6" Schmidt Cassegrain arrived today. I have been thinking about buying a HyperStar 6 v4, but have heard that such causes everything from spherical aberration to coma. Am still researching. Just subscribed.
Nice vid. Very informative. I have the same set up and i can't seem to dial in my EAF. Curios what do you have set for your course and fine steps? Thanks!
@@astronotna Thanks! I have not. It’s a little tricky since I use Buckeye 3d print EAF bracket. Coming from refractors, I would do the tape trick and move in/out the focused and see if the line in the middle matches. Any tips on backlash computation?
You can try this method I used with the EAF ruclips.net/video/i1NObOskiUc/видео.htmlsi=Q2yRS2oSVFI6S3sm&t=1204 My C6 wouldn't get proper focus without this. It would always be a tad off. I've never had to set it on a refractor but I noticed when I started shooting with the SCT this was critical. Maybe this helps
When I picked up my hyperstar form Starazona for my 9.25in sct, I asked Dean to center my corrector plate while I waited for them to built the hyperstar. I have not had to mess with collimation from day one. I am lucky to live 2hrs away from Starazona as any issues I can’t solve I just will take a drive.
Same set up except am3 mount and 533mm pro cam. My input would be depending on budget my filters are Baader f2 and 97% transmission at 3nm and 2nm. Not necessarily the smaller band path the more vignette but more a case of filter spec and size and sensor size. Love ur channel ❤
@@astronotna honestly there’s something unique and rather refreshing about your channel. Not sure what it is but I’m here to stay. You’re just a regular guy sharing his hobby without the £15k set up without the random deep emotional quote. I think you will make it. All the best and see ya in the next one
I am planning to buy a Hyperstar for my C8 but I am atomished about your stars. How do you manage to have such nice stars with a normal C6 and Hyperstar ? do you proccessed them before with some kind of starless ? how do you do ? Clear skyes
Hello there! I think I won the lottery with my c6 the alignment of my optics is excellent. I've worked with other C6 and they aren't like mine. That being said hyperstar is a corrector of which it does a great job of doing so. The mirror is already at F2. When I processed my photos in this video it was before I started using pixinsight. It was processed in photoshop and I used starnet to remove the stars. I prestretched my stars to the point where I like them then processed the starless nebula separate. It's much easier these days now we have tools like blur exterminator but to answer your question that was my process. I do think alot has to do with my copy of the c6 but you can definitely achieve the same results with the tools we have available now. Hope this helps!
I'll stick with my Fra400 w/ reducer and gathering 8 hours a channel at f/3.9, good tips in here about collimation though! overall good video, sucks you have to travel for even bortle 6 man.. thats rough for this hobby. I have a C8 and need to get it going, so pro tips on the collimation I will surely watch again before setting up lol
Thanks for the amazing video. I have recently bought the hyperstar and can work out how I cover the back of the scope where the camera used to fit, could someone please help me?
Hey George. If you have the reducer you can just leave it on the scope with the cap on it or screw the visual back that came with your scope on it with a cap on it.
Oh ok great I'll do that, I set it up eith the reducer still in the back and and a screw on adapter and put tape over it to stop light leaks but I jist wanted to make sure for what ever reason yoy shouldn't do that. Thanks for your help :)
Thanks for the vid. I just got the 9.25 EdgeHD with the .7 reducer and considering adding a Hyperstar as another option. Looks like you’re getting good results. One question though… you’re using 1.25” filters. Wouldn’t you get less vignetting if you moved to 2”?
I thought I would but I'm using 1 inch sensor and micro 4/3 so 1.25 covers those sensors well. For curiosity I used a 2 inch and got the same results. If I used an apsc for sure with 1.25. Thanks for watching this one appreciate ya!
Great video! As far as collimating the Hyperstar; couldn’t you measure the gap between the two halves of the Hyperstar with a feeler gauge, and make sure the gap is the same all the way around? Then collimate on a defocused star to do any needed tweaking.
Ive just taken delivery of Hyperstar V4 for my C925. What I would say is that Optolong have a new filter the L Extreme for F2 imaging emission targets. My Altair tri band probably wont work great at F2.2 but I can still use it for imaging at F6.3 with the Starizona SCT reducer. The V4 for C925 sure is heavy though so I had to carefully thread it onto the corrector carefully. As is typical its been cloudy and a full moon so not tried any serious imaging apart from first night.
I have an idea. Two side by side Hyperstar c6’s on my AM3 of which would be under the weight limit with counterweights. I would use the same cooled color Zwo 183 camera and no filters as I shoot frim bortle 2. This would give me increased amount of integration and as shooting side by side post processing would be easier than shooting over multiple nights as I might not be aligned properly. Is this idea too good to be true?
Do you have to take flats prior to swapping filters or can you do all flats at the end of the night, I guess my question is really is the filter drawer filter positioning accurate enough so when filter is reinserted that dust doesn’t move, so that you can do all flats at once, if so how do you handle dust introduce during filter changes.
Hey there! You will want to take flats after each filter session BEFORE you change filters and touch the focus. Flats are pretty critical with how the imaging train is set up at the time. So yes to answer your question take flats prior to swapping filters if you want the most effective flat frame possible.
Hey there Astronotna, I really like you videos and would be interested to know if you would be willing to modify the parts so I can use the ZWO EAF on my new Evo 6 with Hyperstar.?
Wish that someone would make a Hyperstar Lens for older Meade telescopes. I have an 8 inch LX-50 SCT which theoretically should be able to do the same thing as a current Celestron C8. I can not find anything which supports the old scope. I did just watch someone make an adapter for their 10 inch SCT.
Nice video; I wonder if you could let us know what brand your dew shield is. I have the 8" EdgeHD and here in NZ the aluminium dew shield is way over priced, unsurprisingly. I would have thought there'd be some off-brand options out there but I can't find one.
Yes of course! I'm just using the celestron original aluminum dew shield for the C6! They are very over priced. The price dropped to 90 bucks when I finally got mine. Thanks and thank you for watching this one!
Your second method of Collimation on the Hyperstar isn't great, because the first screw you tighten will either push or pull that side a little, and in doing so, will restrict the amount the other side screws are able to move with the same amount of torque, resulting in a tiny tilt. A better way is to use three spacers of consistent thickness, maybe 1mm thick, placed in the push pull gap, and VERY gently tighten only the pull screws so the spacers are gently nipped, then only the push screws so that your spacers are all just as tight as each other in the gap, then slip them all out.
Is that a laptop or a tablet with keyboard you used with ASIAir app? Do you have to collimate the Hyperstar every time you set up? I have a C8. Instead of getting a second scope, a refractor, I was thinking Hyperstar. Do you find removing the secondary mirror and installing the Hyperstar then reversing the procedure in the dark a little nerve racking? Thanks.
What is the make and model number. I have an iPad but looking at android tablets they are so cheap even with a keyboard and the screens are bigger I may just want one for ASIAir. Thanks
4:20 how do you get to the place in ASI Air to focus? Video? Just had the first night out with ASI Air +. I have it controlling the mount with its interface and also got SkySafari6 hooked up at the same time. Nicer mapping. Got my polar scope working and HC aligned ok. Found a bright star and focused using the EP then swapped in the ZWO585 cam in the diagonal. At this stage, the screen stayed grey - no stars at all! I’m guessing the camera needed focus but I couldn’t see how to do that. I found a “video” mode and shining a flashlight down the scope made the display bright but I’m blundering around looking how to display a live view so I can try to focus. Must be quite a bit off. (That’s my theory anyway! I have a Bahtinov mask ready but no stars! There must be a way. Any hints? I’ll google a bit today. I found one on focusing a guide scope. Seemed to be saying to preview and plate solve but plate solve was grayed out.
First thing is first I'd like to congratulate you on your first astrophotography rig. What you have there is alot to deal with for a beginner. This hobby is amazing but also very frustrating at the same time. It takes patience and lots of learning. Firstly you have quite a few things going on. Also you have not mentioned what type of scope you have or other devices you have with it. So it's hard to reply to this in context. One thing you want to check is if you have your backfocus on your camera and telescope set correctly. For that you will need to do some light reading in the manuals.To test this you can focus on something far away in the distance to obtain a rough focus. Also to do this you will need to learn how to use the asi air. When you can focus with the asi air during the day on a distant object you will have the rough focus for stars. Also, uninstall sky safari just to make sure it does not interfere with the air. Watch Peter zielinka's tutorial on the asi air set and follow that. Alot of your questions will be answered there. You should not need to focus through an eyepiece first as the focus point will be different from your cam. If you need further help reach back out
@@astronotna you vid is excellent and I’m looking fwd to trying the Hyperstar (didn’t know what it was!). Right now, I’d just like to know how to get the cam focused in ASI. Do I use the “video” mode or maybe focus - what’s that green square?! (As you can tell I’m new to ASI). Like your video style so just subbed to catch new stuff. Great job sir! Oh, I should mention, for visual and EAA combination I have just got a Meade 647 flip mirror diagonal. This has the cam straight through and an EP with independent focus on the side. So now, I have the scope out back with the EP focused on distant trees and I’m trying to focus the camera in ASI. Oh, and THANKS for no music! Scope is C9.25, EQ6-R Pro, AA+, ZWO 585
Nice set up! If you go to preview mode just set it to take a photo for a few seconds. See what your star looks like adjust take another pic adjust. You should be to see stars in the fov with a rough focus. If you don't see any stars at all just means backspacing is off or you are really out of focus
@@astronotna Could you give me some advice finding a suitable one? I currently have a Celestron Evolution EdgeHD 8" optical tube, an AM5 mount and tripod, Hyperstar v4, ASI183MC Pro, and it's all ran by an ASIAir Plus.
Of course! At that focal length you will want a guide scope in the 50mm to 60mm range. Asi 120 would br sufficient and it would give you the reach. If you want a budget option I really like svbony. Very good for the price. I'm currently guiding with a svbony 50mm guidescope myself. If you are just using hyperstar then a 50 would do. If you gonna be using it in sct configuration get a 60mm to future proof yourself
I measured the diameter of it for you this morning. The hyperstar itself takes .59 (15mm) and measured at the filter drawer .66 (17mm) of aperture. At least thats how it is on my C6. Hope this helps you in some way.
I am a new Hyperstar owner and this is very helpful, thanks for posting!
Oh that's great! Glad this helped out and congrats!!
Nicely done. Sure appreciate the time it takes to film and post. I learned just what I wanted and no extra music or distractions. Must be my "senior" status, but I like it. Thanks again...
Well done; the only thing I would add, your cables coming from the hyperstar should be at 90degrees. One coming from the top or bottom the other from the left or right side. Tip from the guys at Starizona. I'm lucky to live in Tucson and be friends with the great guys there.
Thanks for the tip here! 👍 and thanks for watching this one! Appreciate ya+
@astronotna Or just wrap some tape around them to stiffen up a little and bend them into a 60 degree arc across the corrector and you won't see any diffraction spikes at all. Read up on curved `spiders'
Well done, you touch on most of the key points of using Hyperstar. I have Hyperstar v4’s for both my C6 and Edge 9.25 SCT’s. The blinding speed of Hyperstar and the ability to get a project done quickly more than offsets its handful of peculiarities that must be dealt with. They are my favorite wide field rigs. Then when Galaxy season arrives it’s easy to go back to non-Hyperstar operations and have all the focal length you need to play the game.
Do you find the difference between the C6 and the 9.25 Edge HD worth it? Is there any noticeable difference? I'm asking because I have a C6 and an 8" Edge HD and can't decide which way to go. Obviously the C6 Hyperstar is half the price, but does the additional $$$ for the 9.25 make it worthwhile?
In general you will notice the difference in larger apertures when you are trying to resolve the fine details. The larger the aperture the more detail you will resolve. This is especially important to an SCT where part of the aperture is blocked by the central obstruction. In terms of light gather power the 8 inch will gather 1.8X more light than the 6 inch and the 9 inch will gather 2.3X more light the 6 inch and also 1.3X more than the 8 inch. Depending on the scope you choose you also have to make sure the image scale is appropriate or it really won't matter what scope you get. I know your delimma tho lol I've racked my brain on this exact same thing as with so many others LOL. Hope this helps in someway and I am sure others can wiegh in as well.
I didn't know there's a C6 version of the Hyperstar. Nice. Might get one for my old C6.
I loved my hyperstar. I only ever sold it because I was originally told that I could not put a 2600/268 apsc astrocam on it with a filter. 4 years later thats not the case anymore. The one piece of advice I can give anyone with a hyperstar is that autofocus is a must if not you really need to refocus every + or - 1°c temp change its super sensitive to focus shift all fast optics are. You can also sort of lock down the tip / tilt screws so collimation is not needed if swapping back and fourth from F/10 to F/2. Collimation I found using the artifical star the easiest route then checking on Polaris.
great entertaining video, you have great video skills, and taco is adorable, happy to find this, im not even involved in astrophotography, but im interested casually
Oh man amazing! Thank you so much I appreciate you watching this one! Hopefully we will see more of Taco soon his face that it lol 😆
The OIII details on you hyperstar images is impressive. I was never able to tame the stars on my hyperstar C8, you convinced me to give it another shot.
I also have the C8 and Hyperstar using a tri-bahtinov mask makes collimation much easier.
I've been thinking about this.
Thanks for your video concerning the C6 and hyperstar. Have you ever tried estimating the signal to noise ratio you are getting from your Ha, OIII and SII exposures even using f/2? There is a free online calculator made by a fellow YT channel Deep Sky Detail that is valuable for this. Also Brent Mantooth has a channel on YT with several videos going into imaging at fast focal ratios and the effects of narrowband filters. As a consequence of this I use 12nm Ha and OIII filters by Astronomik for collecting HOO data with my Samyang lens. The OIII filter being their Max FR version to reduce the effects of haloes. Someday I'd love to have a C6 but they are like gold dust. Good luck with your imaging.
I've caught a few of those kids. I'll check those things out thanks! Happy imaging to you too!
Loved that video thank you so much
Im glad! Thank you for watching this one!
I actually mount the camera cable guide on the front of the dew shield then bring the cables along the outside of the dew shield then secure them with a large rubber band that goes around the dew shield. Starizona recommends 10 nm bandwidth for narrow band or use the special f2 filters.
My Celestron 6" Schmidt Cassegrain arrived today. I have been thinking about buying a HyperStar 6 v4, but have heard that such causes everything from spherical aberration to coma. Am still researching. Just subscribed.
Congrats on the new scope! Hopefully some of my vids on this help you explore your future decsion. Wishing you clear skies!
Nice vid. Very informative. I have the same set up and i can't seem to dial in my EAF. Curios what do you have set for your course and fine steps? Thanks!
Thanks I have my fine focus set as 10 and coarse is 100. Have you set the backlash up on it?
@@astronotna Thanks! I have not. It’s a little tricky since I use Buckeye 3d print EAF bracket. Coming from refractors, I would do the tape trick and move in/out the focused and see if the line in the middle matches. Any tips on backlash computation?
You can try this method I used with the EAF ruclips.net/video/i1NObOskiUc/видео.htmlsi=Q2yRS2oSVFI6S3sm&t=1204 My C6 wouldn't get proper focus without this. It would always be a tad off. I've never had to set it on a refractor but I noticed when I started shooting with the SCT this was critical. Maybe this helps
When I picked up my hyperstar form Starazona for my 9.25in sct, I asked Dean to center my corrector plate while I waited for them to built the hyperstar. I have not had to mess with collimation from day one. I am lucky to live 2hrs away from Starazona as any issues I can’t solve I just will take a drive.
That sounds awesome! You are very lucky They are so helpful down there.
Same set up except am3 mount and 533mm pro cam. My input would be depending on budget my filters are Baader f2 and 97% transmission at 3nm and 2nm. Not necessarily the smaller band path the more vignette but more a case of filter spec and size and sensor size. Love ur channel ❤
Thanks so much and thanks for adding this information here! I appreciate you watching this one too!!!
@@astronotna honestly there’s something unique and rather refreshing about your channel. Not sure what it is but I’m here to stay. You’re just a regular guy sharing his hobby without the £15k set up without the random deep emotional quote. I think you will make it. All the best and see ya in the next one
Man I really needed to hear this today! I appreciate you more than you know. Wishing you CS
I am planning to buy a Hyperstar for my C8 but I am atomished about your stars. How do you manage to have such nice stars with a normal C6 and Hyperstar ? do you proccessed them before with some kind of starless ? how do you do ? Clear skyes
Hello there! I think I won the lottery with my c6 the alignment of my optics is excellent. I've worked with other C6 and they aren't like mine. That being said hyperstar is a corrector of which it does a great job of doing so. The mirror is already at F2. When I processed my photos in this video it was before I started using pixinsight. It was processed in photoshop and I used starnet to remove the stars. I prestretched my stars to the point where I like them then processed the starless nebula separate. It's much easier these days now we have tools like blur exterminator but to answer your question that was my process. I do think alot has to do with my copy of the c6 but you can definitely achieve the same results with the tools we have available now. Hope this helps!
I'll stick with my Fra400 w/ reducer and gathering 8 hours a channel at f/3.9, good tips in here about collimation though! overall good video, sucks you have to travel for even bortle 6 man.. thats rough for this hobby. I have a C8 and need to get it going, so pro tips on the collimation I will surely watch again before setting up lol
Thanks for the amazing video. I have recently bought the hyperstar and can work out how I cover the back of the scope where the camera used to fit, could someone please help me?
Hey George. If you have the reducer you can just leave it on the scope with the cap on it or screw the visual back that came with your scope on it with a cap on it.
Oh ok great I'll do that, I set it up eith the reducer still in the back and and a screw on adapter and put tape over it to stop light leaks but I jist wanted to make sure for what ever reason yoy shouldn't do that. Thanks for your help :)
Thanks for the vid. I just got the 9.25 EdgeHD with the .7 reducer and considering adding a Hyperstar as another option. Looks like you’re getting good results. One question though… you’re using 1.25” filters. Wouldn’t you get less vignetting if you moved to 2”?
I thought I would but I'm using 1 inch sensor and micro 4/3 so 1.25 covers those sensors well. For curiosity I used a 2 inch and got the same results. If I used an apsc for sure with 1.25. Thanks for watching this one appreciate ya!
@@astronotna Gotcha! Thanks for explaining and thanks again for the vid. Take care and I wish you great skies🤞
Great video! As far as collimating the Hyperstar; couldn’t you measure the gap between the two halves of the Hyperstar with a feeler gauge, and make sure the gap is the same all the way around? Then collimate on a defocused star to do any needed tweaking.
Yes I suppose you could!
Ive just taken delivery of Hyperstar V4 for my C925. What I would say is that Optolong have a new filter the L Extreme for F2 imaging emission targets. My Altair tri band probably wont work great at F2.2 but I can still use it for imaging at F6.3 with the Starizona SCT reducer. The V4 for C925 sure is heavy though so I had to carefully thread it onto the corrector carefully. As is typical its been cloudy and a full moon so not tried any serious imaging apart from first night.
Amazing and congrats on your purchase. Here's hoping for clear skies for ya soon!
I have an idea. Two side by side Hyperstar c6’s on my AM3 of which would be under the weight limit with counterweights. I would use the same cooled color Zwo 183 camera and no filters as I shoot frim bortle 2. This would give me increased amount of integration and as shooting side by side post processing would be easier than shooting over multiple nights as I might not be aligned properly. Is this idea too good to be true?
That would be amazing!!! I just can't imagine how much signal you would pull in.
Do you have to take flats prior to swapping filters or can you do all flats at the end of the night, I guess my question is really is the filter drawer filter positioning accurate enough so when filter is reinserted that dust doesn’t move, so that you can do all flats at once, if so how do you handle dust introduce during filter changes.
Hey there! You will want to take flats after each filter session BEFORE you change filters and touch the focus. Flats are pretty critical with how the imaging train is set up at the time. So yes to answer your question take flats prior to swapping filters if you want the most effective flat frame possible.
Hey there Astronotna, I really like you videos and would be interested to know if you would be willing to modify the parts so I can use the ZWO EAF on my new Evo 6 with Hyperstar.?
DM me on instagram. We can talk about it see if it's something I can do. Thanks for watching this channel.
Wish that someone would make a Hyperstar Lens for older Meade telescopes.
I have an 8 inch LX-50 SCT which theoretically should be able to do the same thing as a current Celestron C8.
I can not find anything which supports the old scope. I did just watch someone make an adapter for their 10 inch SCT.
Nice video; I wonder if you could let us know what brand your dew shield is. I have the 8" EdgeHD and here in NZ the aluminium dew shield is way over priced, unsurprisingly. I would have thought there'd be some off-brand options out there but I can't find one.
Yes of course! I'm just using the celestron original aluminum dew shield for the C6! They are very over priced. The price dropped to 90 bucks when I finally got mine. Thanks and thank you for watching this one!
Please more please about cosmos and astronomy. Add. Like all about space and Universe. All subscriptions about Space
at 10:58 that red streak made me have to rewind lol it was a wtf moment lol
Your second method of Collimation on the Hyperstar isn't great, because the first screw you tighten will either push or pull that side a little, and in doing so, will restrict the amount the other side screws are able to move with the same amount of torque, resulting in a tiny tilt. A better way is to use three spacers of consistent thickness, maybe 1mm thick, placed in the push pull gap, and VERY gently tighten only the pull screws so the spacers are gently nipped, then only the push screws so that your spacers are all just as tight as each other in the gap, then slip them all out.
Very interesting (although I don''t own a SCT myself) and impressive results. cs
Is that a laptop or a tablet with keyboard you used with ASIAir app? Do you have to collimate the Hyperstar every time you set up? I have a C8. Instead of getting a second scope, a refractor, I was thinking Hyperstar. Do you find removing the secondary mirror and installing the Hyperstar then reversing the procedure in the dark a little nerve racking? Thanks.
It's an android tablet with a keyboard and yes I do collimate every time I set up. I got used to handling the secondary it's pretty much routine now.
What is the make and model number. I have an iPad but looking at android tablets they are so cheap even with a keyboard and the screens are bigger I may just want one for ASIAir. Thanks
Its a Samsung S7 FE 12.4" Comes with the stylus and keyboard all in one.
hyperstar is also very sensitive to corrector position. you need the corrector plate as close to the center of the telescope tube as possible.
4:20 how do you get to the place in ASI Air to focus? Video? Just had the first night out with ASI Air +. I have it controlling the mount with its interface and also got SkySafari6 hooked up at the same time. Nicer mapping.
Got my polar scope working and HC aligned ok. Found a bright star and focused using the EP then swapped in the ZWO585 cam in the diagonal.
At this stage, the screen stayed grey - no stars at all! I’m guessing the camera needed focus but I couldn’t see how to do that. I found a “video” mode and shining a flashlight down the scope made the display bright but I’m blundering around looking how to display a live view so I can try to focus. Must be quite a bit off. (That’s my theory anyway! I have a Bahtinov mask ready but no stars!
There must be a way. Any hints? I’ll google a bit today. I found one on focusing a guide scope. Seemed to be saying to preview and plate solve but plate solve was grayed out.
First thing is first I'd like to congratulate you on your first astrophotography rig. What you have there is alot to deal with for a beginner. This hobby is amazing but also very frustrating at the same time. It takes patience and lots of learning. Firstly you have quite a few things going on. Also you have not mentioned what type of scope you have or other devices you have with it. So it's hard to reply to this in context. One thing you want to check is if you have your backfocus on your camera and telescope set correctly. For that you will need to do some light reading in the manuals.To test this you can focus on something far away in the distance to obtain a rough focus. Also to do this you will need to learn how to use the asi air. When you can focus with the asi air during the day on a distant object you will have the rough focus for stars. Also, uninstall sky safari just to make sure it does not interfere with the air. Watch Peter zielinka's tutorial on the asi air set and follow that. Alot of your questions will be answered there. You should not need to focus through an eyepiece first as the focus point will be different from your cam. If you need further help reach back out
@@astronotna you vid is excellent and I’m looking fwd to trying the Hyperstar (didn’t know what it was!). Right now, I’d just like to know how to get the cam focused in ASI. Do I use the “video” mode or maybe focus - what’s that green square?! (As you can tell I’m new to ASI). Like your video style so just subbed to catch new stuff. Great job sir! Oh, I should mention, for visual and EAA combination I have just got a Meade 647 flip mirror diagonal. This has the cam straight through and an EP with independent focus on the side. So now, I have the scope out back with the EP focused on distant trees and I’m trying to focus the camera in ASI. Oh, and THANKS for no music! Scope is C9.25, EQ6-R Pro, AA+, ZWO 585
Nice set up! If you go to preview mode just set it to take a photo for a few seconds. See what your star looks like adjust take another pic adjust. You should be to see stars in the fov with a rough focus. If you don't see any stars at all just means backspacing is off or you are really out of focus
1000th Sub 😅
Thank you so much!!!
I am interested in hyperstar. I have a C8...but not sure if I want to move to a c9.25 or c11. Would it transfer over?
Unfortunately, not starizona makes different size Hyperstar lenses for different size scopes. 😕
Did you use a guide scope on this setup?
I did I used a 50mm guidescope.
@@astronotna Could you give me some advice finding a suitable one? I currently have a Celestron Evolution EdgeHD 8" optical tube, an AM5 mount and tripod, Hyperstar v4, ASI183MC Pro, and it's all ran by an ASIAir Plus.
Of course! At that focal length you will want a guide scope in the 50mm to 60mm range. Asi 120 would br sufficient and it would give you the reach. If you want a budget option I really like svbony. Very good for the price. I'm currently guiding with a svbony 50mm guidescope myself. If you are just using hyperstar then a 50 would do. If you gonna be using it in sct configuration get a 60mm to future proof yourself
Looks like you loose at least an inch of aperture due to the size of the Hyperstar ring. True?
I measured the diameter of it for you this morning. The hyperstar itself takes .59 (15mm) and measured at the filter drawer .66 (17mm) of aperture. At least thats how it is on my C6. Hope this helps you in some way.
@@astronotna Wow, yes. Thank you for doing that! Every photon counts! lol.
Haaaaaa!
8:00 Guy is driving for dark sky to B6-7 lol I have B5 at home and i'm quite pissed off for light pollution here :P