Your edge would be my ideal scope as it's almost like the Swiss army knife of telescopes for imaging with all the different focal lengths you can use with the addons etc. Welcome to the F2 club though it looks like you've had less pain than me as your stars in the corners were looking pretty good. I do find the cables can ruin brighter stars so I've set mine at 90 degrees from each other, yeah it gives diffraction spikes like a Newtonian which I'm not a fan of but makes them more visually pleasing I guess. I look forward to seeing more clear skies!!
Hi Tich, yes it's a bit like that. It is well designed, Just waiting to see someone make an 0.5 reduce at F5. That would be the ultimate 😂 I have been an F2 member for a few years now, it's been a long time since I have used it. I have been mainly shooting galaxy's. Fingers crossed, hopefully Autumn will yield some clear nights. CS Don
I live at 32.25 degrees North Latitude and the Pleiades runs through Zenith here. To be honest I prefer to photograph the Pleiades with a smaller amount of dust than your ending photograph has. It blocks the view of much of the cluster and so I don't process much more than your photo shows. I will typically use my f/5 150mm Newtonian that I had the primary mirror refigured to 1/12th wave and .98 Strehl. My coma corrector has very little to do as the mirror barely has any coma and I only use it for widest shots possible, like M45 or C80 (Omega Centauri) which here at best skims 11 degrees above the horizon. In Bortle 2 skies I get on a hill that gets me up high enough that mountains to the south don't cut it off and far enough East that the light dome from Las Cruces, New Mexico isn't an issue.
I am 33 degrees South, that's interesting. That makes me feel a little better about my image. Your right, maybe the dust is not that important. I have seen some other images that seem to collect some interesting dust clouds outside of the Pleiades centre around the outside of the cluster area. This is what I was trying to capture without any luck. Interestingly enough to, is that I have seen this with slower refractors with less exposure. Could be the extra contrast a refractor provides, or they are simply taken from a more northerly sky. Thanks for your reply CS Don
@@donstronomy7606 You're welcome. It is a matter of taste I suppose as I can certainly do enough exposure with my Newtonian to show a bunch of dust. Still to me some of those photos look like the dust is painted on, too much processing. I've never seen dust that made lines like I see in some photos.
Thank you for the excellent video, which made me confused, why does everyone who owns a hyperstar make it a simple installation!!!??? Why don't you provide a full explanation for it,,, You make this part easy and simple when it is completely different,,, It is extremely difficult, I hope I don't find anyone who says to contact the responsible company!! I didn't hear from them anything but (measuring the hyperstar) Correct!!!! Oh my God,,, I didn't find the answer to the focus, I didn't find the answer to the tilt of the hyperstar,,, I think and I may be somewhat certain that F2 is the core of the problem and not the focus or the telescope and so on,,, The hyperstar needs a solution to more than one problem, who can solve it??
Hi Kano, thanks for your reply and sorry for my late reply. It seems like you may have purchased a lemon maybe? I can only think of a few things that you may have already tried, or done. Back focus distance is absolutely critical for F2. This would be the first thing to triple check and measure etc. Collimation is the next most important thing to get correct. Focus is also critical, don't rely on electronic focusers for this. They just can't get as sharp as you doing it yourself with about 150X screen magnification. Most important lock the primary mirror after focus. If none of the above work, I would be getting your sensor checked for tilt, or try another camera with the same back-focus distance as the one you are using. I have two cameras I use for this, one is my QHY 294 colour camera, and the other is my QHY 268 mono camera. They claim to have the same back-focus distance from the company but I have to add .3mm spacer for my 268M If none of the above work you may have a lemon my friend. Hope you solve your problems and clear skies to you!
You tube has changed it's language captions and does not allow me to translate directly to Russian. However they have now introduced automatic language captions. You will need to select the Closed Captions tab in the lower right of your screen and then select your settings tab and select Subtitles ON. Hope this works 🤞
Great setup end observatory - I wish you long long happy years using them.
Thank you very much for your kind words.
Thank you very much for your kind words 🙂
Thanks for USA. Lots of clouds here lately.
Lots of clouds everywhere these days. Cheers.
I have the Hyperstar v4 for my non-Edge C9.25 and really like it!!
It is an incredibly powerful piece of glass. I love it too.
Your edge would be my ideal scope as it's almost like the Swiss army knife of telescopes for imaging with all the different focal lengths you can use with the addons etc.
Welcome to the F2 club though it looks like you've had less pain than me as your stars in the corners were looking pretty good. I do find the cables can ruin brighter stars so I've set mine at 90 degrees from each other, yeah it gives diffraction spikes like a Newtonian which I'm not a fan of but makes them more visually pleasing I guess. I look forward to seeing more clear skies!!
Hi Tich, yes it's a bit like that. It is well designed, Just waiting to see someone make an 0.5 reduce at F5. That would be the ultimate 😂 I have been an F2 member for a few years now, it's been a long time since I have used it. I have been mainly shooting galaxy's. Fingers crossed, hopefully Autumn will yield some clear nights.
CS Don
I live at 32.25 degrees North Latitude and the Pleiades runs through Zenith here. To be honest I prefer to photograph the Pleiades with a smaller amount of dust than your ending photograph has. It blocks the view of much of the cluster and so I don't process much more than your photo shows. I will typically use my f/5 150mm Newtonian that I had the primary mirror refigured to 1/12th wave and .98 Strehl. My coma corrector has very little to do as the mirror barely has any coma and I only use it for widest shots possible, like M45 or C80 (Omega Centauri) which here at best skims 11 degrees above the horizon. In Bortle 2 skies I get on a hill that gets me up high enough that mountains to the south don't cut it off and far enough East that the light dome from Las Cruces, New Mexico isn't an issue.
People want to see the dust, as its hard to capture.
I am 33 degrees South, that's interesting. That makes me feel a little better about my image. Your right, maybe the dust is not that important. I have seen some other images that seem to collect some interesting dust clouds outside of the Pleiades centre around the outside of the cluster area. This is what I was trying to capture without any luck.
Interestingly enough to, is that I have seen this with slower refractors with less exposure. Could be the extra contrast a refractor provides, or they are simply taken from a more northerly sky.
Thanks for your reply
CS Don
@@donstronomy7606 You're welcome. It is a matter of taste I suppose as I can certainly do enough exposure with my Newtonian to show a bunch of dust.
Still to me some of those photos look like the dust is painted on, too much processing. I've never seen dust that made lines like I see in some photos.
@@donstronomy7606 You get to see the LMC & SMC, plus the Carina Nebula so we all get something special in our skies.
Great image in the end!
Thank you very much 😊
Image turned out great. Unfortunately I have a Meade and there is no hyperstar for the Meade telescopes so I'm stuck with my f/10.
Thanks' Logan. Yes it is one big advantage it has over the Meade.
CS Don
Nice work. Just subscribed.
Thank you very much😊
Hi Don, I'm trying to figure out what that adapter that your guide scope rides on is. "Bintel" , "Intel" can't find it anywhere. Thanks, Dave
www.bintel.com.au/product/bintel-dovetail-mount-vixen-style/
Found it Dave!
CS Don
Thank you for the excellent video, which made me confused, why does everyone who owns a hyperstar make it a simple installation!!!??? Why don't you provide a full explanation for it,,, You make this part easy and simple when it is completely different,,, It is extremely difficult, I hope I don't find anyone who says to contact the responsible company!! I didn't hear from them anything but (measuring the hyperstar) Correct!!!! Oh my God,,, I didn't find the answer to the focus, I didn't find the answer to the tilt of the hyperstar,,, I think and I may be somewhat certain that F2 is the core of the problem and not the focus or the telescope and so on,,, The hyperstar needs a solution to more than one problem, who can solve it??
Hi Kano, thanks for your reply and sorry for my late reply. It seems like you may have purchased a lemon maybe? I can only think of a few things that you may have already tried, or done. Back focus distance is absolutely critical for F2. This would be the first thing to triple check and measure etc. Collimation is the next most important thing to get correct.
Focus is also critical, don't rely on electronic focusers for this. They just can't get as sharp as you doing it yourself with about 150X screen magnification. Most important lock the primary mirror after focus.
If none of the above work, I would be getting your sensor checked for tilt, or try another camera with the same back-focus distance as the one you are using.
I have two cameras I use for this, one is my QHY 294 colour camera, and the other is my QHY 268 mono camera.
They claim to have the same back-focus distance from the company but I have to add .3mm spacer for my 268M
If none of the above work you may have a lemon my friend.
Hope you solve your problems and clear skies to you!
Спасибо огромное, если можно к след видео делайте с сурдо перевод на русском за ранее спасибо
You tube has changed it's language captions and does not allow me to translate directly to Russian. However they have now introduced automatic language captions. You will need to select the Closed Captions tab in the lower right of your screen and then select your settings tab and select Subtitles ON.
Hope this works 🤞
From