Grazie Ricardo per un'altra lezione. Attendo con ansia la semplice guida per principianti NMM. Inoltre, non vedo l'ora di vedere il nuovo set di vernici di Kimmer Models.
Dopo che ho finito questa serie su questo modello farò un video sull’uso di palette limitate e poi metto in programma qualcosa sul nmm. Grazie del commento 😊
6:18 Interesting! PV29 is a not a pigment you see every day. Looks relatively close to Alizarin Crimson (PR170). How is it's opacity? I noticed that most artist brands combine pigments to make a Alizarin Crimson hue, instead of using a single pigment. I am guessing to improve on properties like opacity and light fastness.
Perylene Violet is possibly my favorite color of all times. It's glossy and transparent so the uses are very limited, but for those specific uses it's ace. Thing is, it's out of production... so you can achieve a similar thing with Alizarine Crimson + Black if you don't find it. The hue and the transparency and glossyness are very good for darkest shadows.
@@kimeramodels It might be out of production due to health risks. After posting my previous comment I read an article about that. Not really health risks we miniature painters have to deal with, but if you paint cars for a living breathing it in, can be risky. For that reason I would not airbrush that paint.
I have noticed that you use Royal Brown regularly. From the swatches I made it is quite similar to a red oxide, but a little more towards the red spectrum. Also more transparant and less "earthy" if that makes sense. If you are black lining (or shading in general) I would expect you to go for the more opaque option (red oxide). Can you go a little into why you choose Royal Brown in this case?
I like royal brown quite a lot exactly because it's transparent and more orange than the oxides. It's very good mixed into skintones for shadows and using it as a layer on shadows just achieve the same thing because it combines with the color below to give more harmony. As a rule of thumb: shadows are better painted with more transparency and lights with more opacity.
I sometimes find a difficult to tell the difference between if a blend contains white or an oxide pigment (yellow/red/green). Both can give the paint a "creamy" look, both can desaturate (although white more so) and both can increase the opaqueness of the blend. Any tips on how to distinguish between the two?
Most of the time it could be both. In general a blend uses the least amount of pigments possible to make it more stable, so when in doubt resort to primaries.
For this model I used prototype brushes that are not in the market yet (and I don't know if they will be). Generally before I was using W&N Series 7 and Scale75 kolinsky brushes. Sizes I use are usually around the 000 for detail and a 1 for general painting. Roughly, each brand is different.
@@kimeramodels Many thanks for your answers. I was very interesting with your detail brush ( good point with hard bristles, I wonder if it is natural or synthetic). I have a winsor and newton 000, I will give it a go. The bristles seam less long by the way.
You really are a master of the craft my friend!
Thank you
Another great video, thank you very much!
So many good tips in this one as well. Making notes and learning a lot!
Thank you for the good tips and explains!!!
Glad it was helpful!
Can't wait to see this one
Grazie Ricardo per un'altra lezione. Attendo con ansia la semplice guida per principianti NMM. Inoltre, non vedo l'ora di vedere il nuovo set di vernici di Kimmer Models.
Dopo che ho finito questa serie su questo modello farò un video sull’uso di palette limitate e poi metto in programma qualcosa sul nmm. Grazie del commento 😊
6:18 Interesting! PV29 is a not a pigment you see every day. Looks relatively close to Alizarin Crimson (PR170). How is it's opacity? I noticed that most artist brands combine pigments to make a Alizarin Crimson hue, instead of using a single pigment. I am guessing to improve on properties like opacity and light fastness.
Perylene Violet is possibly my favorite color of all times. It's glossy and transparent so the uses are very limited, but for those specific uses it's ace. Thing is, it's out of production... so you can achieve a similar thing with Alizarine Crimson + Black if you don't find it. The hue and the transparency and glossyness are very good for darkest shadows.
@@kimeramodels It might be out of production due to health risks. After posting my previous comment I read an article about that. Not really health risks we miniature painters have to deal with, but if you paint cars for a living breathing it in, can be risky. For that reason I would not airbrush that paint.
Good to know. It's basically impossibile to airbrush anyway
I have noticed that you use Royal Brown regularly. From the swatches I made it is quite similar to a red oxide, but a little more towards the red spectrum. Also more transparant and less "earthy" if that makes sense. If you are black lining (or shading in general) I would expect you to go for the more opaque option (red oxide). Can you go a little into why you choose Royal Brown in this case?
I like royal brown quite a lot exactly because it's transparent and more orange than the oxides. It's very good mixed into skintones for shadows and using it as a layer on shadows just achieve the same thing because it combines with the color below to give more harmony. As a rule of thumb: shadows are better painted with more transparency and lights with more opacity.
I sometimes find a difficult to tell the difference between if a blend contains white or an oxide pigment (yellow/red/green). Both can give the paint a "creamy" look, both can desaturate (although white more so) and both can increase the opaqueness of the blend. Any tips on how to distinguish between the two?
Most of the time it could be both. In general a blend uses the least amount of pigments possible to make it more stable, so when in doubt resort to primaries.
Hello' good vidéo and explanations :). Can you tell us what brushes you use please? Thanks!
For this model I used prototype brushes that are not in the market yet (and I don't know if they will be). Generally before I was using W&N Series 7 and Scale75 kolinsky brushes. Sizes I use are usually around the 000 for detail and a 1 for general painting. Roughly, each brand is different.
@@kimeramodels Many thanks for your answers. I was very interesting with your detail brush ( good point with hard bristles, I wonder if it is natural or synthetic).
I have a winsor and newton 000, I will give it a go. The bristles seam less long by the way.
@@archidiacretiberius2937 Natural. Yes my detail has longer bristles but it's a prototype as i was saying.