HEADS UP! A lot of people seem to have issues reattaching the heater core without compromising the seal. The flanges are small, there's not much grip, and it's made of aluminum. It gets damaged very easily. One dude claimed the dealership cut a groove into it in order to get grip, which then ended up leaking. Another guy used Heater Hose across the flanges with some hose clamps... That's probably what I'm going to have to do. Just giving a headsup to possible readers.
@@sethwilburn6131 in order to replace the pipes that connect to the heater core, you have to remove the entire pipe which requires you getting to the engine side of the firewall. I found that to be too hard, and Jerry rigged some heater hose around the heater core and the inlet and outlet. It hasn't leaked yet.
@@aiden9472would you recommend cutting them and using some hose and clamps. I am at a loss. Just can't seem to get the hoses together all the way. I thought about trying some gasket maker ?
@@sethwilburn6131 I am up against replacing the "water pipes" too @sethwilburn6131. For the time being, I have just hooked up a return hose to bypass the heater core, until hopefully I can find this operation documented or videoed. My existing pipes are out of round, and without a lot of work trying to re-round them while darn near contorted into a prezel, I can't get the core ends to connect. What I'm really looking for is someone that has successfully replaced the pipes. Is there enough room between the firewall and the engine to get the pipes in the car from the engine side?
Thank you very much for an awesome video, so appreciated for passing on to us DIY how to do thing right. VW heater core famous of a short lived in the car but we had to give them a credit where they locate that heater core and not taking a whose dash out to get to it.
I'm not going to lie, on the PITA meter this is about an 8. I had to loosen the bolt in the engine bay to give me enough play. I couldn't separate the pipes otherwise. I took the plastic connector from the top pipe in the engine bay and struggled to wiggle it off. Then I had to use my phone to take a pic to be sure the bolt was in there. It's well hidden. A mirror also works. It also annoyed me that I damaged the edges of the pipes. Thanks for showing this.
I just did this myself, excellent video by the way. My advice, buy the OEM heater core and clamps to save yourself a massive headache. Some of the aftermarket cores will not fit, wasted 10hrs doing that. Once the heater core lines are mostly connected and you just need a little more you can use adjustable pliers to squeeze them (along the lips). Just make sure to be VERY gentle and get 3 of the sides you can access, be slow and move in small amounts. Don't put any of the panels back on until you get coolant in the system and up to operating temperature, check for leaks in your work.
@Indianrider65 0 seconds ago where did you purchase that air fitting/cap pressure cap for the overflow bottle?? I want to buy that so I can do the same type of pressurized bk fill/flush. I know you made a rig from plumbing but the threaded cap with the (gauge) on top looks commercial. Is it on FCPEuro or where?
I probably watched every video that was remotely close to replacing a 2012 Audi A3 Heater Core... None of them said anything about loosening the bolt at the firewall, so bravo to you. I wish I would've watched this before I destroyed the flange on the hoses. 😂🤣😡
Well I’m glad it helped somewhat even if after the fact. I just did one not to long ago that’ll need those manifold hoses replaced next time round, not looking forward to that.
Hi there , I want to thank you 🙏 very much for this video , and for passing onto us this knowledge, this was a very good 👍 video my Friend, keep up the good work and God bless u , and ur whole family, this will make my job easier , thanks again
I have referenced many of your Passat TDI videos to assist with my at home fixes. I, like your sister, have a 2013 Passat TDI that required a new heater core. What I noticed was the antifreeze has a burnt smell and is brown. No matter how many times I flush it. I come to the conclusion it may be the radiator that is heavily corroded. I have yet to pull it apart but was curious what your suggestion might be? there is no overheating or leaks at this time.
It’s extremely hard to get everything out on these as the rad has no drain, even the block will have some coolant yet. At best during flushing your just diluting the burnt coolant. My wife’s car I removed the rad and flushed with a hose as well as flushed the block thoroughly when doing the water pump.
I have a 2014 Passat TDI SEL Premium. I have changed the heater core 5 times in my car due to this. I wonder if it is the heater core flux or is the coolant can't take the heat from the EGR cooler and coolant is getting burnt. If it is the collant getting burnt, I wonder if a different coolant would solve the problem.
Personally I think it’s the heat, I’ve done a few different cars and the mileage per heater core Varys a lot, if it was excessive flux you’d think they’d be similar. I have switched one to Fleet guard coolant, coolant filter would be another option.
Месяц назад
@JoshsJettas I'm just wondering if you ever found out if using a different coolant helped the issue at all? Just bought a 2012 Passat, not happy about finding this out after the purchase. Edit: cheers! Thanks for the content on this issue.
Yes. Aftermarket coolants helps. I also have gone to changing out the coolant annually just to be on the safe side.
Месяц назад
@derekfoehr9264 thanks for the info, I'm not stressing about this issue anymore; as long as the maintenance schedule is followed, II should be fine, but I agree, 5 yr change of coolant would be extra kind to her. I'll be doing an oil/oil filter change every 7.5k kms also just to spoil her, a transmission service every 50k kms. I'm really looking forward to getting my hands dirty with this car and doing most of the maintenance schedule myself. Aside from consumables, it will still be cheaper than getting someone else to do it. Edit: from what I've read, it's only when neglect has occurred that these problems occur and one begins to chase their tail, trying to get the coolant system back to normal operation that's the hard part.
Hey man. I stumbled across your vids a while back and I have a 2014 Passat TDI with the plugged core. I have a chinese core off amazon hoping maybe the passages in it aren't so tiny like VW's cores and I got some heater hose and clamps just in case I can't get it to attach properly. I recognized all the radio station presets on this video and think I must live near you. I am in Hamilton. Cheers.
Got a 2014 I bought in 2020 with 32000 miles on it vw have so far put 5 cores in it and 6th will be soon no heat again this morning on the passenger side I’m at 80000 miles so 6 cores in 50000 miles. Pretty annoyed with it. To be fair they have been taking care of it 100% so far
I think the issue is once the build up is in the block its hard to get it all out, and of course the heater core makes for a great "filter". I've been got a small collection of the material and want to see if any "rad flushes" will break the material down enough to flush it all out.
I have a problem with my passat highL 2013 at beginning there was no hot air coming Then i had to park it for 10 days when i came back there was no coolant at all I took to VW authorised dealer they told its heater exchanger And asked for big amount 2000$ I searched on the internet I didn’t find anything related to heater exchanger only is heater core is it the same ?
@@JoshsJettas I will disconnect it for a while to make sure it’s the rad. But the amount they asked for is way too much, they are telling it need more time and effort to fix it , maybe i have to show them your video 😃
Dude, what were the larger bolts on the rear end of the splash guard? I removed all the T20s, but there are 2 large like T35s or something still holding it on.
This is precisely why the "lifetime coolant" must be changed every five years or 100,000 miles. Coolant breaks down and becomes acidic over time, and those acids will start eating away at the plastic components - including the heater core end tanks. Some plastic components like the water pump impeller will break away and cause plugging of the smaller coolant system passages such as the heater core. Most likely culprit of the heater core plugging is some owners going the cheap route and mixing the OEM g12 coolant with Prestone or any coolant which claims to be "compatible". News flash - they aren't as the mixing of different coolants creates a brown gel which will plug up the coolant passages.
Thanks for the video. I’ve seen other videos on gassers where they loosened the screw on the firewall side to allow movement of the tubes but I just had a look at my ‘13 TDI SEL and I don’t know how in the heck you’d get to them because the turbo is in the way. I’ve got heat only on the drivers side. Left and right thermistors tested good and I even swapped them with no change. So I guess it’s the cure from what I’ve read. Hard to believe because it’s pretty hot on one side and cold on the other (passenger) but it appears a new core corrects this issue. I’ve also read a lot of accounts of people having a hard time getting the core tubes back on far enough to get the clamps on. I’m guessing it’s because they are using aftermarket cores maybe. Not looking forward to this job but hoping it goes smoothly. Straight forward but the necessary clearance connecting the tubes worries me.
Im not sure if I pointed it out in this video but there’s an electric auxiliary heater or grid heater behind the heater core. It’s small and mostly on the driver side so that’s why the drivers side is warm and pass is cool. If the coolant is an orange colour make sure you flush it well.
And yeah I heard the aftermarket don’t fit well, the one I did with an aftermarket core was hacked up bad, the oem is $16 from idparts so I don’t know why you’d bother with aftermarket.
@@jeffnagy2032 Ya. It was 5* outside this morning and I froze my ass off. I’ve been putting this off because it’s just a commuter but no heat in the winter and the A/C not working when it’s above 80* is making me regret buying this car last spring. I may have to just offload it during the one month it’s in the 60’s. Lol.
@@southfork67The Passats seem to have a lot of quirks that the other diesels don’t seem too, not sure why they had to mess it up. As recommended above I ran rad flush through one of them before changing it out to hope it’d dissolve anything that was stuck in the block but it wasn’t very helpful. I did the oil cooler/filter housing a few months later and there was chunks in it was well.
I have no heat out of my 2015. And 2015 is not covered under the warranty. I had a bad leak and it was the top fitting to the heater core in the engine bay. There was a hole in the formed piece I believe now to be caused by the plugged heater core. I'll be tearing into this myself. Dealer quoted $1200 and possibly more depending on how many "mega flushes" they have to do.
Месяц назад
Do you perhaps know if VW would cover a 2012 with 100,000k kms on the clock for this? Cheers.
Yes, the coolant needs flushed very well when replacing. If it’s been done very recently you could use hose clamp pliers on the rubber hoses in the engine bay and catch whatever spills inside.
Hopefully I can’t get some help here. Before I replaced the heater core it was cold on the passenger side. Now with the new core it’s cold on the driver side. Anyone know what in the world is wrong?
Possibly the black cover that goes over the heater core wasn’t fastened properly and causing the blend door to stick open? There’s a white linkage near there, if you stick your head in there while moving the temp switch you should be able to see if it’s moving fully.
@@JoshsJettas thank you for the help!!! The arm controlling the gate was half out. In the hole and moving with the arm but not actually raising the gate up and down. So stupid of me but happy you got me back to it and finished.
Those crazy Germans did it! They designed a heater core that can easily* be replaced without a weekend of removing and re-installing the dash and 90% of the hardware! I’m sure I’ll have to do this to my Passat before I move away from Southern California!
On a 2004 Volkswagen Jetta TDI 1.9 [ Can I change the heater core without taking dash out ? I'm thinking about buying a car,but I believe the heater core is leaking, not sure where it is located or IF I can do it like You did. Some I know you have to remove the whole dash.
@@randomghost4385 oh wow they went up in price, the last few years oem was $16 and aftermarket Nissans was $80. If you haven’t bought it yet fcp euro has them for $30 www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw-hvac-heater-core-beetle-passat-vag-561819031b
HEADS UP! A lot of people seem to have issues reattaching the heater core without compromising the seal. The flanges are small, there's not much grip, and it's made of aluminum. It gets damaged very easily. One dude claimed the dealership cut a groove into it in order to get grip, which then ended up leaking. Another guy used Heater Hose across the flanges with some hose clamps... That's probably what I'm going to have to do. Just giving a headsup to possible readers.
Thanks, I covered the o rings with coolant then pinched together with pliers. It definitely doesn’t have much to grab onto.
I damaged the pipes and am attempting to replace. Having trouble getting the pipes from the fire wall. Help please
@@sethwilburn6131 in order to replace the pipes that connect to the heater core, you have to remove the entire pipe which requires you getting to the engine side of the firewall. I found that to be too hard, and Jerry rigged some heater hose around the heater core and the inlet and outlet. It hasn't leaked yet.
@@aiden9472would you recommend cutting them and using some hose and clamps. I am at a loss. Just can't seem to get the hoses together all the way. I thought about trying some gasket maker ?
@@sethwilburn6131 I am up against replacing the "water pipes" too @sethwilburn6131. For the time being, I have just hooked up a return hose to bypass the heater core, until hopefully I can find this operation documented or videoed. My existing pipes are out of round, and without a lot of work trying to re-round them while darn near contorted into a prezel, I can't get the core ends to connect. What I'm really looking for is someone that has successfully replaced the pipes. Is there enough room between the firewall and the engine to get the pipes in the car from the engine side?
Thank you very much for an awesome video, so appreciated for passing on to us DIY how to do thing right. VW heater core famous of a short lived in the car but we had to give them a credit where they locate that heater core and not taking a whose dash out to get to it.
No problem, as much as they suck for getting plugged up they couldn’t make it any easier to change.
I'm not going to lie, on the PITA meter this is about an 8. I had to loosen the bolt in the engine bay to give me enough play. I couldn't separate the pipes otherwise. I took the plastic connector from the top pipe in the engine bay and struggled to wiggle it off. Then I had to use my phone to take a pic to be sure the bolt was in there. It's well hidden. A mirror also works. It also annoyed me that I damaged the edges of the pipes. Thanks for showing this.
I just did this myself, excellent video by the way.
My advice, buy the OEM heater core and clamps to save yourself a massive headache. Some of the aftermarket cores will not fit, wasted 10hrs doing that.
Once the heater core lines are mostly connected and you just need a little more you can use adjustable pliers to squeeze them (along the lips). Just make sure to be VERY gentle and get 3 of the sides you can access, be slow and move in small amounts.
Don't put any of the panels back on until you get coolant in the system and up to operating temperature, check for leaks in your work.
I agree 100%
@Indianrider65
0 seconds ago
where did you purchase that air fitting/cap pressure cap for the overflow bottle?? I want to buy that so I can do the same type of pressurized bk fill/flush. I know you made a rig from plumbing but the threaded cap with the (gauge) on top looks commercial. Is it on FCPEuro or where?
Extremely informative and professional. Thank you.
I probably watched every video that was remotely close to replacing a 2012 Audi A3 Heater Core... None of them said anything about loosening the bolt at the firewall, so bravo to you. I wish I would've watched this before I destroyed the flange on the hoses. 😂🤣😡
Well I’m glad it helped somewhat even if after the fact. I just did one not to long ago that’ll need those manifold hoses replaced next time round, not looking forward to that.
Can get the heater core out, can you make a video onto how to loosen the screw from the firewall?
I am having trouble getting the heater hoses out of the fire wall... help please
good job bro thanks for cutting core and showing us
Hi there , I want to thank you 🙏 very much for this video , and for passing onto us this knowledge, this was a very good 👍 video my Friend, keep up the good work and God bless u , and ur whole family, this will make my job easier , thanks again
Thank you
I have referenced many of your Passat TDI videos to assist with my at home fixes. I, like your sister, have a 2013 Passat TDI that required a new heater core. What I noticed was the antifreeze has a burnt smell and is brown. No matter how many times I flush it. I come to the conclusion it may be the radiator that is heavily corroded. I have yet to pull it apart but was curious what your suggestion might be? there is no overheating or leaks at this time.
It’s extremely hard to get everything out on these as the rad has no drain, even the block will have some coolant yet. At best during flushing your just diluting the burnt coolant. My wife’s car I removed the rad and flushed with a hose as well as flushed the block thoroughly when doing the water pump.
I have a 2014 Passat TDI SEL Premium. I have changed the heater core 5 times in my car due to this. I wonder if it is the heater core flux or is the coolant can't take the heat from the EGR cooler and coolant is getting burnt. If it is the collant getting burnt, I wonder if a different coolant would solve the problem.
Personally I think it’s the heat, I’ve done a few different cars and the mileage per heater core Varys a lot, if it was excessive flux you’d think they’d be similar. I have switched one to Fleet guard coolant, coolant filter would be another option.
@JoshsJettas I'm just wondering if you ever found out if using a different coolant helped the issue at all?
Just bought a 2012 Passat, not happy about finding this out after the purchase.
Edit: cheers! Thanks for the content on this issue.
Yes. Aftermarket coolants helps. I also have gone to changing out the coolant annually just to be on the safe side.
@derekfoehr9264 thanks for the info, I'm not stressing about this issue anymore; as long as the maintenance schedule is followed, II should be fine, but I agree, 5 yr change of coolant would be extra kind to her. I'll be doing an oil/oil filter change every 7.5k kms also just to spoil her, a transmission service every 50k kms.
I'm really looking forward to getting my hands dirty with this car and doing most of the maintenance schedule myself. Aside from consumables, it will still be cheaper than getting someone else to do it.
Edit: from what I've read, it's only when neglect has occurred that these problems occur and one begins to chase their tail, trying to get the coolant system back to normal operation that's the hard part.
I did 2 with different coolants and neither had issues afterwards. But saying that the one I did with oem coolant didn’t have issues after either
Great vid! Is that gunk out of the heater core gel-like or gritty?
Thanks, it was very gritty, if you crush it between your fingers it turned into a sandy like texture.
Hey man. I stumbled across your vids a while back and I have a 2014 Passat TDI with the plugged core. I have a chinese core off amazon hoping maybe the passages in it aren't so tiny like VW's cores and I got some heater hose and clamps just in case I can't get it to attach properly.
I recognized all the radio station presets on this video and think I must live near you. I am in Hamilton. Cheers.
Did it fit okay? I had heard the Nissens doesn’t fit into the tube well? And Kitchener area, not too far
Also curious, did it seal properly?
Got a 2014 I bought in 2020 with 32000 miles on it vw have so far put 5 cores in it and 6th will be soon no heat again this morning on the passenger side I’m at 80000 miles so 6 cores in 50000 miles. Pretty annoyed with it. To be fair they have been taking care of it 100% so far
I think the issue is once the build up is in the block its hard to get it all out, and of course the heater core makes for a great "filter". I've been got a small collection of the material and want to see if any "rad flushes" will break the material down enough to flush it all out.
@@JoshsJettas makes sense. You think Evans coolant would make a difference??
keep up updated with what you find out please. 👍👍
@@JoshsJettas hey, that sounds like awesome content! Do you happen to also have a used EGR cooler to inspect along with it?
where can we find you?
I have a problem with my passat highL 2013 at beginning there was no hot air coming
Then i had to park it for 10 days when i came back there was no coolant at all
I took to VW authorised dealer they told its heater exchanger
And asked for big amount 2000$
I searched on the internet I didn’t find anything related to heater exchanger only is heater core is it the same ?
Only thing I could think of for a “heat exchanger” would be the rad, that’d cause a leak at the front of the car.
@@JoshsJettas
I will disconnect it for a while to make sure it’s the rad.
But the amount they asked for is way too much, they are telling it need more time and effort to fix it , maybe i have to show them your video 😃
There’s defiantly some shady dealers out there, they usually have book hours they go off which are close but who knows how they’re quoting you
Dude, what were the larger bolts on the rear end of the splash guard? I removed all the T20s, but there are 2 large like T35s or something still holding it on.
I believe there was 3 larger torx across the back?
Vinegar is a good test for acid pH, baking soda and water is a base
This is precisely why the "lifetime coolant" must be changed every five years or 100,000 miles. Coolant breaks down and becomes acidic over time, and those acids will start eating away at the plastic components - including the heater core end tanks. Some plastic components like the water pump impeller will break away and cause plugging of the smaller coolant system passages such as the heater core. Most likely culprit of the heater core plugging is some owners going the cheap route and mixing the OEM g12 coolant with Prestone or any coolant which claims to be "compatible". News flash - they aren't as the mixing of different coolants creates a brown gel which will plug up the coolant passages.
Exactly, it’s pretty obvious if you check it once and awhile once it’s starting to get cooked
Thanks for the video. I’ve seen other videos on gassers where they loosened the screw on the firewall side to allow movement of the tubes but I just had a look at my ‘13 TDI SEL and I don’t know how in the heck you’d get to them because the turbo is in the way. I’ve got heat only on the drivers side. Left and right thermistors tested good and I even swapped them with no change. So I guess it’s the cure from what I’ve read. Hard to believe because it’s pretty hot on one side and cold on the other (passenger) but it appears a new core corrects this issue. I’ve also read a lot of accounts of people having a hard time getting the core tubes back on far enough to get the clamps on. I’m guessing it’s because they are using aftermarket cores maybe. Not looking forward to this job but hoping it goes smoothly. Straight forward but the necessary clearance connecting the tubes worries me.
Im not sure if I pointed it out in this video but there’s an electric auxiliary heater or grid heater behind the heater core. It’s small and mostly on the driver side so that’s why the drivers side is warm and pass is cool. If the coolant is an orange colour make sure you flush it well.
And yeah I heard the aftermarket don’t fit well, the one I did with an aftermarket core was hacked up bad, the oem is $16 from idparts so I don’t know why you’d bother with aftermarket.
If you haven't done it yet, I'd flush the hell out of it with CLR first. Mine has became a huge headache.
@@jeffnagy2032 Ya. It was 5* outside this morning and I froze my ass off. I’ve been putting this off because it’s just a commuter but no heat in the winter and the A/C not working when it’s above 80* is making me regret buying this car last spring. I may have to just offload it during the one month it’s in the 60’s. Lol.
@@southfork67The Passats seem to have a lot of quirks that the other diesels don’t seem too, not sure why they had to mess it up. As recommended above I ran rad flush through one of them before changing it out to hope it’d dissolve anything that was stuck in the block but it wasn’t very helpful. I did the oil cooler/filter housing a few months later and there was chunks in it was well.
I need to do mine. Luckily I’m under the 120k mark. Calling the dealer tomorrow to see if they will cover it under warranty
Hopefully, they've went up in price since doing this
I have no heat out of my 2015. And 2015 is not covered under the warranty. I had a bad leak and it was the top fitting to the heater core in the engine bay. There was a hole in the formed piece I believe now to be caused by the plugged heater core. I'll be tearing into this myself. Dealer quoted $1200 and possibly more depending on how many "mega flushes" they have to do.
Do you perhaps know if VW would cover a 2012 with 100,000k kms on the clock for this? Cheers.
Was the coolant drained when you replaced the heater core?
Yes, the coolant needs flushed very well when replacing. If it’s been done very recently you could use hose clamp pliers on the rubber hoses in the engine bay and catch whatever spills inside.
Hopefully I can’t get some help here. Before I replaced the heater core it was cold on the passenger side. Now with the new core it’s cold on the driver side. Anyone know what in the world is wrong?
Possibly the black cover that goes over the heater core wasn’t fastened properly and causing the blend door to stick open? There’s a white linkage near there, if you stick your head in there while moving the temp switch you should be able to see if it’s moving fully.
@@JoshsJettas thank you for the reply I will get back in there and see what I might have missed
@@JoshsJettas thank you for the help!!! The arm controlling the gate was half out. In the hole and moving with the arm but not actually raising the gate up and down. So stupid of me but happy you got me back to it and finished.
Is the process the same for a 2013 golf Tdi?
I don’t believe it is
Those crazy Germans did it! They designed a heater core that can easily* be replaced without a weekend of removing and re-installing the dash and 90% of the hardware! I’m sure I’ll have to do this to my Passat before I move away from Southern California!
It’s almost like they knew it would have to be replaced annually.
Can you reuse the heater core clamps?
Clamps you can but the o-rings that come
In the clamp kit I wouldn’t re use.
On a 2004 Volkswagen Jetta TDI 1.9 [ Can I change the heater core without taking dash out ? I'm thinking about buying a car,but I believe the heater core is leaking, not sure where it is located or IF I can do it like You did. Some I know you have to remove the whole dash.
This is the video you want for that car, whole dash has to come out
ruclips.net/video/LD72MjD1pK0/видео.html
@@JoshsJettas What is a MK4 ?
@@Richard5873 it’s the body style generation. Mk4/MKIV is 99-05/06 Jettas and golfs.
Anyone have a part number for heater core? 2011 Passat 2.0tdi. cheers
Here’s the link to where I got mine, don’t forget the clamps/o-ring kit
www.idparts.com/heater-core-oem-nms-passat-561819031c-561819031b-p-6279.html
This was one of the very rare instances where the heater core and parts kit were $23 vs online being more expensive
Doesnt happen often, but that being said my local dealer wanted $160 vs IDparts oem core for $16.
just wanted to add my comment..
the recirculate function makes the heat come out way hotter in my tdi than with it off.
Yeah making warm air hot is easier then cold air hot, downside of that is more humidity in the cabin.
I wonder if my 2013 Passat SE 2.5 covered under that warranty
It won’t be its tdi specific, but you can thank that warranty for the $16 oem heater core though
@@JoshsJettas Thanks for responding. I wish the OEM was $16. My dealer selling them for $70
@@randomghost4385 oh wow they went up in price, the last few years oem was $16 and aftermarket Nissans was $80. If you haven’t bought it yet fcp euro has them for $30
www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw-hvac-heater-core-beetle-passat-vag-561819031b
@@JoshsJettas Thank you, saved me $40. Ordered and will tackle this job next week.
Anyone who owns a vw, sue the engineers, sue vw, they are a disaster to work on.