I just changed my heater core on my 2014 Passat TDI after watching this video. Thanks to you! Had an issue though since my pipes going to the firewall are aluminum and clamped on pretty snug. I went into this already planning to take the whole dash apart to get to it so when I saw this, I figured Id try it and if it failed, I'd just then take the dash apart to do the work. My work around the snug aluminum pipes attached to the heater core was to actually just cut the pipes on the heater core itself from the inside. I then was able to pull the core out then detached the pipes I cut. At that point, the aluminum pipes going into the wall were loose enough to move around to barely make space for the new heater core. Put the clamps back on and put everything on like a charm and now I have heat!
How did you snap the line from firewall & lines from heater core back together? Bottom line snapped perfect but the top line has a gap & will not snap into place. I'm stuck st this point. Used oil but no luck
Josh, is there any play in the tdi aluminum hoses coming in from the firewall? I'm worried that I can't get enough space to not ruin the connection. Can you tell me how you aligned and push the new fitting onto the pipes from fire wall?
Thank You thank you THANK YOU for this video! This job can take less than an hour to complete. I paid $26 for an O.E. heater core that was on sale at a local dealership (same car). I stopped by the service department to get an estimate for the job, the tech was gonna charge me $60 for the exact same part (from the exact same parts counter I had just paid $26 to) and quoted me $1000.00 for the labor. Had I not seen this video I'd have been ripped off by VW! Thank You again brother!
My advice: -Be sure to add a good amount of lube to the oring and tube mating surfaces. (I use silicone paste lube.) Hopefully that will help the tubes slide into one another smoothly. I really had to manhandle those aluminum tubes. I ended up using a plastic wedge tool against the heater box to lever the tube flanges into position to finally get them fully seated. It was kind of a pain. - I also cut the tubes from the old core to make removal easier. I sprayed some penetrating oil at the mating surfaces beforehand. Next time I will probably flush it before replacing. Its all a very tight fit under the dash. I also think I read that VW has an extended warranty on these things, so they might do it for free. I like to do this stuff myself. The creator of this video is definitely a skilled mechanic.
*UPDATED BELOW* Thank you for the posting this! I have a 2013 Passat 2.5 and at 54k we lost nearly all heat on the passenger side. The car has run flawlessly excluding this issue but the stock heater core, as you mentioned, is VERY poorly designed. This heater core change isn't as easy as changing the core in my 91 Audi 200s (30 minute job) but it seems definitely doable for any average mechanic like me. Certainly beats paying a 1000 plus to the dealership..Thanks again for your tutorial and adding to my confidence on this job! New sub!
20vtechnik No problem and thanks so much for the subscribe! glad to hear you're going to take care of it yourself instead of paying top dollar at a dealership. Also thank you for sharing your model/year and symptoms.
I should have updated this sooner but better late than never.. After digging deeper into my lack of heat problem (passenger side) I found the issue. It was NOT the heater core but a simple temp sensor in the passenger side vent in the dashboard. VW part # 3D0907543A. I replaced it for about $30 and it completely fixed the issue!
i have the same exact issue on my 2013 Passat SE. I figured it was not the heater core given the left side heats up perfectly. The warm/hot air just isn't getting to right side vents. Can you elaborate more on how you accessed and replaced the temp sensor. I was thinking the issue might be have been a bad blend door actuator... but I would like to hear more about how you diagnosed the temp sensor failure, please ! And thank you for posting this.
On the 2013 Passat there are access panels on both sides of the dash. One on the drivers side (which also contains the fuses not found in the main fuse box) and one on passenger side. Open the front car door/s and look at the side of the dashboard and you'll see it. You can use a flathead screw driver to pop the panels open. You will see an electrical clip that is attached to the sensor which runs into the plastic venting system. Twist the clip to carefully pull the sensor down from from the vent then disconnect the clip from the sensor. I simply switched the sensor I knew was working (drivers side) and swapped it to the passenger side (and vise versa). Then I turned the car on, let it warm up and checked for heat on the passenger side. Now, heat on passenger, none on driver.. Hopefully this is your issue and not a faulty blend door actuator. I've heard those are a bit more money and take more time to replace. Check the 1stVWparts site if you do need a new sensor. Hope this helps!
Glad to hear you found it helpful, and I really appreciate your comment! Helps out the channel. And I only do videos when we have slow days at work, which lately has not been very often. So I try to put up whatever I can
I totally agree about your comment about modern aluminum heater cores vs the older copper and brass ones. In Ford Freestars, they tend to electrolytically scavenge the aluminum and spring leaks from the resulting pinholes. After having three core leak failures in two years, I took a NOS brass Ford Ranger heater core that had the same core dimensions and fabricated the copper inlet tubes from plumbing joints and copper tubing. The van has now run three years with reliable heat and no coolant leaks. I'm facing a plugged heater core on a 2012 Tiguan (passenger side cold air, drivers side hot) and will see if your procedure works on it. If so, I'll report back and you can add it to the list of applicable vehicles.
Thanks for the video! This worked great for my 2013 2.5L. I blew the coolant out of the old core and didn’t spill a drop in the interior. I had trouble separating the top pipe from the core as there is much less flexibility than in the bottom one, even with the screw loosened. I wound up cutting the core pipe with diagonal cutters, pulling the core out and then using pliers to remove the remaining core pipe stub from the water pipe. If you cut the core pipes it will save a ton of time during removal.
Jeremy Schemm did you have any trouble putting the new one back in? We also cut our old one out like you did but now we're having trouble getting the pipes to come back together.
Hello Ashley, did you find a solution ? I have the same problem. I spent 3h this morning to try to remove the heater core. But impossible to separate the core pipe. Before cut them, i will be sure that i can re-install the new heater
@@maestro8266 unfortunately not. We ended up having it towed to the shop and finished there which killed me because we got charged just as much as if we had just given it to them from the beginning. We were having that same problem and just couldn't figure out how to fix it.
@@ashmiramant thanks for the reply. Sorry didnt work out for you. i got it to come together once but it leaked. Having a hard time getting it to go back over the new oring now:[
Im having the same issues with my '12 VW Passat SE 2.5L. This video was very very helpful to understand how-to fix and replace the Heater Core on a VW Passat!! I wish you were in my city fix my VW Passat! Lol! After watching your video I think I can fix & replace the Heater Core in my VW Passat. Thanks for making this video!!!
Changed with these tips today in 2 hours total. Thank you! Only difference in vw passat 2010 b6 is that the hoses that goes throuh the firewall are aluminium not rubber. Had to break pipes from old heater core to get it off. But heating works now on both sides 😊
Used a Dremel and cut the aluminum pipes on the heater core then just pliers to wriggle the stuck pipes ends out of the tubes leading to the firewall. Then replaced with new heater core.
Just did this today! Heater was blowing hot air only from the driver vent so can confirm this fixed the issue. I did have to cut the aluminum tubing off the old one to get it out and have better leverage to disconnect them. I also had to use a mallet and a piece of 2x2 to hammer the connection of the new core together. I did have to tighten the bolt between the connections on the engine side first so that the connection on the fire wall side would stay in place. I hope that makes sense to anyone wanting to do it. Its a tight fit and minimal space to get it done but if my 6ft 260lbs bigback can do it so can you
I have a 2010 VW cc Passat with over 107,000 miles. Just took the car in because of no heat coming on the passenger side and rather low heat coming out of the vents on the driver side. I thought it was a bad temperature sensor but turns out it is a bad heater core. After viewing this video I feel pretty good that I got almost 10 years and 107,000 miles out of the heater core before needing a replacement. I am relieved that the core comes out quickly as I was concerned about having to remove the entire dash. While the core may cost on a few dollars - parts and labor run over $1,000 where I live. But hey, thanks for posting this video.
I'm on my third heater core in the past 14 months, I've driven 25k miles in that time. I have a 2014 Passat TDI, it's still under the VW warranty after the TDI recall. My dealer tells me they flush the system each time but don't think their are because there is still sentiment in the holding tank. My option is that the dealer makes a lot of money doing heater core replacements that they want the customer to keep coming back with clogged cores. This heater core replacement look very easy and once my warranty expires I will be doing myself, plus I will make sure the entire system is completely flushed.
Wow, that's crazy that you've had three of them already. I wouldn't doubt that they are skipping the flush as well. Unfortunately it seems like just a poorly designed core and set up. Maybe try using a really high-end engine coolant that has a lot of anti-corrosive?
you were amazing in this video, you helped me solve my problem, i spent the day disassembling the car and looking for this part to change and you showed where it was in a direct way! thanks
Excellent how to. I was expecting a bear of a job having to remove dash. Can't complain though, mine's got over 200k miles. I suffered with no heat last winter. If only I'd seen this sooner !
Great video! Just did my wife’s 2016. It’s blasting heat now! I’m a little upset my Nissens heater core didn’t come with new o rings. Otherwise, great move on the engineers lol
Good thing VW redesigned the heater core access! I had to replace the core on my previous Passat B4 and had to remove the entire dash, that was a pain! I now have a 2011 B7 Passat, but mine's a Euro version, not sure if it's as easy as the US version
First off, great video. Super helpful. Really appreciate the time and effort you put into helping people. I have a 2015 Passat TDI. 187k. It’s on its 3rd heater core. 1st two replaced by the dealership. I’ll be doing the last one myself. Even with coolant changes, the heater core and radiator have gone out on this. Really sad designs.
FYI, there is zero info online for doing this to VW, CC but the procedure works out 100% the same for at least the 09-12 models. I tried to do this without disconnecting the lines at the firewall and loosening that bolt and it is impossible to do without doing that first.
Great video! Frustrating in that i have the new heater core in but the connector pipes won't fully reach the pipes on the core. About 1/2 inch to go before the connector clamp will work. Can I just connect the 2 pipes with a heater hose and clamps?
Thanks. And they may not be lined up properly. They should be able to force in to each other. Butt all the way tight and then the clamp holds them in place and seals them with the O-ring
One of the main reason why they plug up is from not replacing the cabin air filter. I recommend replacing that as well. Supper easy to replace. It's on the passenger side under foam thing with finger tight plastic clips.
Bro, nice job. I've been looking for someone to replace this on a newer model. Alot of vids mention about simply irrigating the core out with CLR instead of buying a new one.....im up in the air about what to do...till now. I appreciate the vid
Dude, this was a freaking great video for sure! I have a 2.5 2013 Passat- and it’s been AMAZING for the last 8 years I’ve had the car until this past year. (The car is still amazing). I just have to replace the heater core because I don’t have heat on the passenger side 🥺
very good video, no waste of time & to the point. You're correct about the older ones....replaced one in my old 98 jetta years back and had to take to complete dash out!
It is not slip and slide at all. To remove old core I had to cut the pipes on the old heater core with a die grinder. For the new one I used lots of grease and still cannot get them to push in against each other and stay flush so I can put the two metal brackets. Am I supposed to be able to push them all the way in or is the brackets supposed to squeeze them closer? At 6:56 it looks like i can see the new o-ring. Did you have to push any further than that? As soon as I push it it comes right out again to that point.
@@jaskaranjawandha832 I apologize for never responding. Hope you got it resolved. I patched it up until i could get it to the mechanic to fix my mess up. Two years later now. Same problem. I believe the whole system needed to be flushed clean a few times to make sure there is no residual sediment BEFORE installing a new core. Live and learn lol And like the OP stated, system needs to be flushed periodically to avoid this for as long as possible.
Thank you for a great video. Going to change mine tomorrow since I have a problem . ( passenger side is blowing colder then driver side) & if blower in hight position the air is getting colder slowly. Thanks again
Lubricate O-Rings with what??🙄 Also, can a bad Heater Core cause annoying interior window and windshield Fogging? If so, can you explain why this fogging is occurring?
This is what is happening with my 2015 Passat TSI Wolfsburg edition windows & windshield. I am still trying to troubleshoot the issue to see if I can do something about it myself. I have no heat coming out of the floor vents specifically & with winter upon us in MI, it's a problem. Heat seems to be coming out of the top/mid-air vents mostly okay (though I have to sit in the passenger seat to see about the far right side since many people are mentioning that specifically). My front windshield defroster action is definitely not great though.
I am having a hard time trying to put the hoses back on. its fighting me and not wanting to go in. Kinda at a loss at the moment. Any ideas? It seems I might have used too much force to get the heater core hoses off of it and now i think they are a little bent so it doesnt want to go anymore forward and connect to the heater core.
yeah they are a little tough to get on. Make sure to have a little bit of lubricant or grease rubbed on them and that they are straight and lined up before trying to push or force them on. If you bent the back line then the alignment is probably off. Honestly there's not much more I could really tell you but they are definitely a pain in the butt to get on. once they're lined up properly you have to just muscle them into place. Not a great design
If you have heat on one side, cool only on the other (Climatronic) PLEASE READ! In a dual heat zone Passat there are two Blend Door Actuators which control the mix of warm and cool air depending on the user setting. One actuator for each side. If in SYNC mode these actuators should travel together and offer the same air temp. These are unfortunately very cheaply made (CHINA). I just replaced my heater core and my issue remained. Took the next step in troubleshooting, and noticed the driver side blend actuator was intermittent. When commanded to a warm setting, the actuator wouldn’t move...when I tapped it it would then travel to the proper position. THESE FAILED ACTUATORS ARE WHAT CAUSE TEMP DIFFERENCES when in SYNC mode. Again, one would think BOSCH would make these for VW but the old and new actuators both state made in China. This part was not fun to replace. It’s buried up in the driver side foot well, above the heater core. Had to take all kinds of stuff apart, but this is possible to fix. Dealer would easily charge well both of $1000. New part was $130. With new heater core and actuator, my 2017 Passat has very hot heat now.
Yes because you want to drain the coolant. You don't want to spill inside of your car. If you unhook that hose and then blow out what's inside of the heater core you're much less likely to spill inside of your car
Did you ever get this fixed? I got the new core in easy enough but can't get the pipes on the new one hooked up cause I can't loosen the 6mm bolt on the firewall. I think it's the turbo in the way.
They do have a blend door. If you follow some of the tips in this video you should be able to verify if it is the heater core or not. Or if you look down in the comments, some other people spoke about the blend door
No heat is probably a clogged heater core. But you would need to take some of the steps that I went over in this video to verify that. And as far as the weak air,, if you read down in the comments, a few people had similar issues and discussed the fix
Appreciate the video, can you maybe give some info on what we’re draining and re filling, it’s it same coolant that goes in radiator? Would it be smart to flush radiator when you do this and put all new coolant in?
Hey, there’s probably a answer below to my question but same issue, hot air in driver side but not passenger side. Tried changing blend door motor didn’t solve the problem. Thought maybe it was clogged heater core and did coolant flush, didn’t solve the issue. Now looking towards changing heater core. Let me know your thoughts.
I HAVE A 2013 VW PASSAT AND ITS BEEN TWO YEARS THAT THE PASSENGER SIDE HOT AIR IS NOT WORKING. I TOOK IT TO THE VW DEALER AND SPENT AROUND $800 ON THIS ISSUE..IT WORKED FOR A FEW WEEKS AND WENT BACK TO BLOWING COLD AIR WHEN I PUT THE HEAT ON..ANY IDEAS 💡 ON THE REAL ISSUE THANKS 😎
@@SENSUI347 sorry just saw your comments now. Did that end up fixing you issue? If you read down in the comments, a few other people had a problem with the passenger side not blowing hot
Honestly I don't recall. I think it's basically the same thing. But if you look down in the comments, I think somebody may have asked the same question a while back. sorry I couldn't be of more help
The plastic lines at the fire wall I have the clips out but cannot get the line to pop off is it just seized or is there a way I need to turn it? Thank you
Great video. How about on 2013 Passat that blow hot air on driver side and cold air on passenger side? It is winter time so want hot on both sides. Car does not have dual climate control so I am baffled on what might cause this.
Hey I just changed mine on my 14 Passat. How do you get the Air out of the system, mine is still blowing cold Air even at opp Temperature. Any help would be great.
Make sure to check if there's any bleed screws on the system. And if not just leave the cap off and punch the throttle a few times in neutral. Make sure you have it all the way turned too hot. Usually that will take care of it and the water pump pushes enough water to push the air out of the heater core. If not you might have to jack up the front or park on a hill so the front of the vehicle is elevated
Honestly I don't recall, it's been a little bit since I've done one of these. But from what I remember it wasn't that difficult to get them off and get some clearance
some Kroil oil broke the corrosion.. got em off. due to the 3.6l and almost 2 whole inches of firewall clearance.. its swapped. now just to get em lined back up again.. I hate engineers. I really do.
@@sierrasixgrey there are definitely worse heater core jobs, that's for sure. Check out my video on the Dodge Ram heater core. What a joke. You basically have to take the entire inside of the cab out
Joshua Woods I see you did the heater core on the 3.6. Did you need to loosen the bolt at the firewall? It is really difficult to get to the firewall in the v6.
I’m about to do the same and can’t find any answers, but I believe if you keep the lines up after they are off and don’t let the let’s go lower gravity will keep everything in the system. About to find out the hard way though
Honestly I'm not sure offhand. But if you find it does work for you Passat, let me know and I can update the description. Thanks for your comment and good luck with the repair!
Have same 2010 Passat 2.0 also with same problem. Winter time and passenger got no heat so when my wipers on the right side aren't defrosted. Ice is stuck know the wipers heavy water streaks on windshield when driving
@@calvinwong365 I have the same problem on my 2011 CC. 1 yr ago had the heater core blown out and it worked ok for 3 months...now same problem again...no heat on passenger side. I would think the heater core is fine but some sort of diverter issue...???
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow We haven't swapped it out yet but we took out the plastics from underneath the dashboard and it seems to look exactly like on the B7 version.
That would lead me to believe the dash has to come apart to replace it. Ask them what the labor time is, or if they gave you a quote it should have it on there
@@terrancegregorywright491 well if it's only calling for 1 hour labor then yeah I would definitely do it yourself. Should be an easy job. You might have to do a little research on how to replace it though. I'm not familiar with where the vent door actuator is on these
Hello and sorry for my english. I have bought a used vw golf 7 1.6 tdi 105hp 2014 model. The last 5 days i am hearing a sound like liquid is running through pipes in the dashboard. Also i hear the sound before i start the engine (for 30sec), as i drive (all the time i am driving) and when i turn off the car again for 30sec. Please do you have any idea or any solution for that; thanks.
It sounds like you have air in your cooling system. Usually this is due to a coolant leak somewhere or sometimes a bad head gasket but that's less common. Have you checked your coolant level in the bottle?
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow i went to my mechanic today and he pressured the coolant bottle to see if there are leaks but nothing happened! yes the coolant level is a little higher from the max point.
Megan Heck once you have everything back together just fill up the coolant reservoir until it's up to the fill line and let it run with the cap off till it's up to temperature. To burp out any air. I'm not sure what the coolant capacity was. Probably something like a gallon and a half
Thanks for the video. I have a 2011 GTI with a plugged heater core. I was able to get to the heater core inside the car (very similar to the Passat) but because of the tight fit, I am not sure how to pull the inlet and outlet hose out. Is loosening the 6 mm screw inside the engine compartment will give a little more wiggle room with the two hoses? Is this why i have to loosen the 6 mm screw? Thanks
Question about the two aluminum pipes connecting to the Heater core inlets. Did you have to push those pipes forward by pulling from the engine compartment?
It's a good idea to drain some before disconnecting the hoses if you don't want to create a mess. Or just put a pan underneath to catch the most of it when you disconnect the hoses
Thanks for the helpful video, I have a problem, my heater core is plugged up and it's restricting the flow of coolant through my EGR valve cooler so I have an engine light coming on plus my heat didn't work in the winter time so I knew it was plugged up anyways my daughter has the same car 2014 Passat she had the same problem the coolant that they use in these cars I think is a big problem
Hey man what's the panel called that you removed after the little tray thing? I need to order a new one. Also do you know the part number for heater core access panel
Hi . I am driving vw passat 2013 2.5l . Driving side vents are blowing cold air and passenger side warm air. Its winter its getting hard now. What you think could be the issue and how can i fix it . Thanks
If you read down in the comments, a few people had a similar issue. If one side blowing hot, then a clogged heater core is not your problem. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
Honestly I forget if these have a bleed screw on them or not. I don't think they do. But in either case you'll want to run the engine for a little bit with the cap off to burp out any air bubbles. And if there are any bleed screws on the cooling system make sure to loosen them until coolant comes out
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow I did that, and it is still hot but not so hot like on the bigining. Also, when car heats up, it starts to blow hot air for a 1-2min then it goes almost completely cold, just little barely noticeable warm. Only on left/drivers vent blows warmer!
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow I checked air circulation direction transferring and it is working, except on the middle back vent, blowing is always very low, no matter what control setup I use, or blower speed.
@@bkingtz1 might have a blend door issue or something different. If you read down to the comments, I briefly remember a few people having similar issues and discussing it in the comments
I just started having trouble with my 2014 Passat. The fan selection doesn't work, it's stuck on floor and won't move to top or defrost vents. Guessing it's the blend door issue but can't find where this part is located. Any ideas?
Sorry I'm not too familiar with where the blend doors are on a passat. I would think if you look up some parts schematics maybe that will help give you some guidance as to where the blend door is located
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Ok thanks! I've been searching all different ways but information seems to be lacking for this model online. I may have to find someone with a service manual?
I am getting rdy to do this same thing. Seems like once a year my 2014 needs a heater core. Last time the dealer did it since it was their problem. Did you have to bleed the coolant lines after the replacement?
this is a great video. But I can't seem to get access to the hose assembly on the firewall to loosen the screw, I assume that is key to removing the tubes to the old core, it is not turning out to be an easy slip and slide at all for me and I assume it is because I can't figure out how to access the screw on the hose assembly. thanks
@@richhackenberg8 honestly it's been a while since I did one of these. I don't remember having to remove the heat shield. But yes if it's in your way then remove the heat shield. Definitely have to get to that screw and loosen it. You don't have to remove it, just have to loosen it
Hi, my Vw Passat 2013 r-line with 43k miles on it well it’s in the car garage atm because I’m getting smoke inside the car, I’ve had a new fan with resistor fitted but 3 weeks later my garage has said it’s down to the auxiliary heater that has failed as in a week of them having my car the mechanic has seen smoke coning from the passenger side footwell it only happens when the outside air temp is below 5 degrees so I’m assuming the auxiliary heater is kicking in to warm the coolant/inside of the car faster, I’m trying to get myself knowledgeable on how to take it out so I can let others know, is the auxiliary heater fitted along side the heater core ?? Thanks 🙏
I can't get the panel under the steering wheel to come loose from the center console corner right by the sifter and AC controls. I can't figure out if it's supposed to slide out of the center console or pull up from it. It's the panel that has the headlight switch all the way over to next to the radio. Pulled all bolts but that panel won't seperate from the center console trim
I have a 2014 TDI SE, and two things happened at once. CEL came on with the error code P2547, and the air vent stopped blowing hot air. P2547 is an EGR code, and I think the EGR is downstream from the heater core, so I believe the sensor isnt reading temperature values in the right range since the heater core is clogged. I cross checked this by comparing temperatures on the inlet and outlet pipes/hoses of the heater core, and after running the car for 15 minutes, one stays cold (I think they should be similar in temperature). I have ordered the replacement core from VW and will be using this video to fix it myself since mechanics are quoting $900 for the fix.
Not generally. Usually a stuck open or worn out thermostat spring will cause that. Clogged heater core will cause it to take much longer to get heat though. And thanks
Hi, Great vid. One question.. On golf mk7 (2014) do you need to take out the dashboard in order to replace the heater core? Or you can access it in the same way as on the 2014 Passat? Thanks.
Unfortunately I'm not in the UK. I got the heater core from a local shop in my country. Basically there are two types of heater cores for the golf MK7, you either have the VALEO or the DENSO. (You need to unmount the plastic cover and check it before buying one) If you have the VALEO type like I do then the part number is Valeo 715303. If you have a knee airbag like I do, you will need to unmount it as well :/ You can find the Golf mk7 repair manual online.
Zoltan K. Thanks for the reply! The weather is terrible here at the moment which is a brilliant time to have a blocked matrix 😂 fortunately the heating is working a little and is enough to cope with defrosting the glass. Im unsure if access to the matrix will be on the drivers side on my car? (right hand drive)
I'm not understanding the loose clamp near the end when you are installing the new heater core. Am I missing something? Does it clamp tighter and you just skipped that part in the video?
Sir, thank you. I do have a question, what if heat is coming out of the driver side and not the passenger side (single not duo settings) and after about 30 min then hot air comes out the passenger vents. Same with defrost. What would be the issue?? I have a 2012 VW Tiguan.
I just changed my heater core on my 2014 Passat TDI after watching this video. Thanks to you! Had an issue though since my pipes going to the firewall are aluminum and clamped on pretty snug. I went into this already planning to take the whole dash apart to get to it so when I saw this, I figured Id try it and if it failed, I'd just then take the dash apart to do the work. My work around the snug aluminum pipes attached to the heater core was to actually just cut the pipes on the heater core itself from the inside. I then was able to pull the core out then detached the pipes I cut. At that point, the aluminum pipes going into the wall were loose enough to move around to barely make space for the new heater core. Put the clamps back on and put everything on like a charm and now I have heat!
Josh Ferrer thanks for the comment and glad the video helped out some!
Yep! Loosen the 6mm clamps, then cut the pipes into the heater core and then twist them off from the pipes going into the firewall.
How did you snap the line from firewall & lines from heater core back together? Bottom line snapped perfect but the top line has a gap & will not snap into place. I'm stuck st this point. Used oil but no luck
@@luvnRain3421 hello did you find any solution for this i have same issue with my 2014 passat
Josh, is there any play in the tdi aluminum hoses coming in from the firewall? I'm worried that I can't get enough space to not ruin the connection. Can you tell me how you aligned and push the new fitting onto the pipes from fire wall?
Thanks so much. This video is amazing. I really appreciate the detail. Got this done in a few hours (I'm slow!) and saved me over $900.
Glad it helped! Thanks for the tip!
I'm looking at buying a used 2013 Passat that I think has a heater core leak... now I know I can replace the heater core myself! Great quality video
I just don't understand why more engineers cant design core replacements like this ! great video thanks !
Volvo has all the cars til 2007 like this. Good luck
Thank You thank you THANK YOU for this video! This job can take less than an hour to complete.
I paid $26 for an O.E. heater core that was on sale at a local dealership (same car). I stopped by the service department to get an estimate for the job, the tech was gonna charge me $60 for the exact same part (from the exact same parts counter I had just paid $26 to) and quoted me $1000.00 for the labor.
Had I not seen this video I'd have been ripped off by VW!
Thank You again brother!
My advice:
-Be sure to add a good amount of lube to the oring and tube mating surfaces. (I use silicone paste lube.)
Hopefully that will help the tubes slide into one another smoothly.
I really had to manhandle those aluminum tubes. I ended up using a plastic wedge tool against the heater box to lever the tube flanges into position to finally get them fully seated. It was kind of a pain.
- I also cut the tubes from the old core to make removal easier. I sprayed some penetrating oil at the mating surfaces beforehand.
Next time I will probably flush it before replacing. Its all a very tight fit under the dash.
I also think I read that VW has an extended warranty on these things, so they might do it for free. I like to do this stuff myself.
The creator of this video is definitely a skilled mechanic.
*UPDATED BELOW* Thank you for the posting this! I have a 2013 Passat 2.5 and at 54k we lost nearly all heat on the passenger side. The car has run flawlessly excluding this issue but the stock heater core, as you mentioned, is VERY poorly designed.
This heater core change isn't as easy as changing the core in my 91 Audi 200s (30 minute job) but it seems definitely doable for any average mechanic like me. Certainly beats paying a 1000 plus to the dealership..Thanks again for your tutorial and adding to my confidence on this job! New sub!
20vtechnik No problem and thanks so much for the subscribe! glad to hear you're going to take care of it yourself instead of paying top dollar at a dealership. Also thank you for sharing your model/year and symptoms.
I should have updated this sooner but better late than never.. After digging deeper into my lack of heat problem (passenger side) I found the issue. It was NOT the heater core but a simple temp sensor in the passenger side vent in the dashboard. VW part # 3D0907543A. I replaced it for about $30 and it completely fixed the issue!
20vtechnik awesome! Glad to hear you figured it out and thanks for updating
i have the same exact issue on my 2013 Passat SE. I figured it was not the heater core given the left side heats up perfectly. The warm/hot air just isn't getting to right side vents. Can you elaborate more on how you accessed and replaced the temp sensor. I was thinking the issue might be have been a bad blend door actuator... but I would like to hear more about how you diagnosed the temp sensor failure, please ! And thank you for posting this.
On the 2013 Passat there are access panels on both sides of the dash. One on the drivers side (which also contains the fuses not found in the main fuse box) and one on passenger side. Open the front car door/s and look at the side of the dashboard and you'll see it. You can use a flathead screw driver to pop the panels open. You will see an electrical clip that is attached to the sensor which runs into the plastic venting system. Twist the clip to carefully pull the sensor down from from the vent then disconnect the clip from the sensor. I simply switched the sensor I knew was working (drivers side) and swapped it to the passenger side (and vise versa). Then I turned the car on, let it warm up and checked for heat on the passenger side. Now, heat on passenger, none on driver.. Hopefully this is your issue and not a faulty blend door actuator. I've heard those are a bit more money and take more time to replace. Check the 1stVWparts site if you do need a new sensor. Hope this helps!
Thanks for doing all the prework before filming but still explaining how its done. You the man! More vids for a VW CC please :)
Glad to hear you found it helpful, and I really appreciate your comment! Helps out the channel. And I only do videos when we have slow days at work, which lately has not been very often. So I try to put up whatever I can
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow I just bought the heater core for my 2010 vw cc and hopefully can follow this video to replace it on Sunday. Keep it up!
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow is this the same for a 2004 passat
@@williamdickson4223 I'm not sure. They based on my research when I posted the video it was for 2009 2017
I found the joy of the banding clamp at the bottom of the air intake hose at an obtuse angle..............................
I totally agree about your comment about modern aluminum heater cores vs the older copper and brass ones. In Ford Freestars, they tend to electrolytically scavenge the aluminum and spring leaks from the resulting pinholes. After having three core leak failures in two years, I took a NOS brass Ford Ranger heater core that had the same core dimensions and fabricated the copper inlet tubes from plumbing joints and copper tubing. The van has now run three years with reliable heat and no coolant leaks.
I'm facing a plugged heater core on a 2012 Tiguan (passenger side cold air, drivers side hot) and will see if your procedure works on it. If so, I'll report back and you can add it to the list of applicable vehicles.
Wow, that's awesome that you did that. Yeah copper ones are definitely the way to go!. And okay. Good luck with the repair. I appreciate that
Thanks for the video! This worked great for my 2013 2.5L. I blew the coolant out of the old core and didn’t spill a drop in the interior. I had trouble separating the top pipe from the core as there is much less flexibility than in the bottom one, even with the screw loosened. I wound up cutting the core pipe with diagonal cutters, pulling the core out and then using pliers to remove the remaining core pipe stub from the water pipe. If you cut the core pipes it will save a ton of time during removal.
Jeremy Schemm did you have any trouble putting the new one back in? We also cut our old one out like you did but now we're having trouble getting the pipes to come back together.
Hello Ashley, did you find a solution ? I have the same problem. I spent 3h this morning to try to remove the heater core. But impossible to separate the core pipe. Before cut them, i will be sure that i can re-install the new heater
@@ashmiramant did you ever get yours to connect? Bottom connected after wrestling with it but top seems too short.
@@maestro8266 unfortunately not. We ended up having it towed to the shop and finished there which killed me because we got charged just as much as if we had just given it to them from the beginning. We were having that same problem and just couldn't figure out how to fix it.
@@ashmiramant thanks for the reply. Sorry didnt work out for you. i got it to come together once but it leaked. Having a hard time getting it to go back over the new oring now:[
Im having the same issues with my '12 VW Passat SE 2.5L. This video was very very helpful to understand how-to fix and replace the Heater Core on a VW Passat!! I wish you were in my city fix my VW Passat! Lol! After watching your video I think I can fix & replace the Heater Core in my VW Passat.
Thanks for making this video!!!
Changed with these tips today in 2 hours total. Thank you! Only difference in vw passat 2010 b6 is that the hoses that goes throuh the firewall are aluminium not rubber. Had to break pipes from old heater core to get it off. But heating works now on both sides 😊
What do you mean by brake pipes? My vw cc has metal pipes too and I was not able to get the heater core out because of this.
@@SalvadorSTMZ i am having the same issue, i cant seem to be able to slide the aluminum tubes apart
@@richhackenberg8 did you find a solution for this?
Used a Dremel and cut the aluminum pipes on the heater core then just pliers to wriggle the stuck pipes ends out of the tubes leading to the firewall. Then replaced with new heater core.
Great vid!! I have to replace my heater core on my 2009 Jetta. I was told the entire dash had to be taken out! Thanks!!!
Just did this today! Heater was blowing hot air only from the driver vent so can confirm this fixed the issue. I did have to cut the aluminum tubing off the old one to get it out and have better leverage to disconnect them. I also had to use a mallet and a piece of 2x2 to hammer the connection of the new core together. I did have to tighten the bolt between the connections on the engine side first so that the connection on the fire wall side would stay in place. I hope that makes sense to anyone wanting to do it. Its a tight fit and minimal space to get it done but if my 6ft 260lbs bigback can do it so can you
I have a 2010 VW cc Passat with over 107,000 miles. Just took the car in because of no heat coming on the passenger side and rather low heat coming out of the vents on the driver side. I thought it was a bad temperature sensor but turns out it is a bad heater core. After viewing this video I feel pretty good that I got almost 10 years and 107,000 miles out of the heater core before needing a replacement. I am relieved that the core comes out quickly as I was concerned about having to remove the entire dash. While the core may cost on a few dollars - parts and labor run over $1,000 where I live. But hey, thanks for posting this video.
That's pretty good. I've seen them go bad countless times at much earlier mileage on these vehicles. Thanks for sharing
I'm on my third heater core in the past 14 months, I've driven 25k miles in that time. I have a 2014 Passat TDI, it's still under the VW warranty after the TDI recall. My dealer tells me they flush the system each time but don't think their are because there is still sentiment in the holding tank. My option is that the dealer makes a lot of money doing heater core replacements that they want the customer to keep coming back with clogged cores. This heater core replacement look very easy and once my warranty expires I will be doing myself, plus I will make sure the entire system is completely flushed.
Wow, that's crazy that you've had three of them already. I wouldn't doubt that they are skipping the flush as well. Unfortunately it seems like just a poorly designed core and set up. Maybe try using a really high-end engine coolant that has a lot of anti-corrosive?
I am putting in my second heater core in my 2015 passat tdi in 10 months. About 25000 miles.
@@brdman55 that sucks. Yeah these are definitely a poor design. Maybe somebody will make an aftermarket heater core that is better quality.
you were amazing in this video, you helped me solve my problem, i spent the day disassembling the car and looking for this part to change and you showed where it was in a direct way! thanks
Excellent how to. I was expecting a bear of a job having to remove dash. Can't complain though, mine's got over 200k miles. I suffered with no heat last winter. If only I'd seen this sooner !
Thanks. Good luck on getting it taken care of
Great video! Just did my wife’s 2016. It’s blasting heat now! I’m a little upset my Nissens heater core didn’t come with new o rings. Otherwise, great move on the engineers lol
Good thing VW redesigned the heater core access! I had to replace the core on my previous Passat B4 and had to remove the entire dash, that was a pain! I now have a 2011 B7 Passat, but mine's a Euro version, not sure if it's as easy as the US version
First off, great video. Super helpful. Really appreciate the time and effort you put into helping people.
I have a 2015 Passat TDI. 187k. It’s on its 3rd heater core. 1st two replaced by the dealership. I’ll be doing the last one myself.
Even with coolant changes, the heater core and radiator have gone out on this. Really sad designs.
Great to see VW making heater cores more accessible.
Yea
Thank you for taking time
I have the same problem
I can do this my self
Thank again
FYI, there is zero info online for doing this to VW, CC but the procedure works out 100% the same for at least the 09-12 models. I tried to do this without disconnecting the lines at the firewall and loosening that bolt and it is impossible to do without doing that first.
So, it is the same on an ‘09 vw cc ? Just want to make sure before buying the heater core... Thanks
Great video! Frustrating in that i have the new heater core in but the connector pipes won't fully reach the pipes on the core. About 1/2 inch to go before the connector clamp will work. Can I just connect the 2 pipes with a heater hose and clamps?
Thanks. And they may not be lined up properly. They should be able to force in to each other. Butt all the way tight and then the clamp holds them in place and seals them with the O-ring
Im getting same problem did you find any solution for this not able to connect the pipes
YOU SIR! ARE A CHAMP!!!!!!!! You just yourself a new subscriber!!!! More vw vids!
My man! Thanks for the subscribe.
Excellently done, very professional, I wish you were here in Vancouver BC to have my car fixed
One of the main reason why they plug up is from not replacing the cabin air filter. I recommend replacing that as well. Supper easy to replace. It's on the passenger side under foam thing with finger tight plastic clips.
Bro, nice job. I've been looking for someone to replace this on a newer model. Alot of vids mention about simply irrigating the core out with CLR instead of buying a new one.....im up in the air about what to do...till now. I appreciate the vid
Well done mate, very nice touch for cutting it up and showing us the inside 👍🏻
Thanks Peter.
Dude, this was a freaking great video for sure! I have a 2.5 2013 Passat- and it’s been AMAZING for the last 8 years I’ve had the car until this past year. (The car is still amazing). I just have to replace the heater core because I don’t have heat on the passenger side 🥺
I have a 2013 turbo Beetle with same problem, did the core replace fix your problem?
Thank man, followed your directions and was a quick fix. Thanks for posting.
very good video, no waste of time & to the point. You're correct about the older ones....replaced one in my old 98 jetta years back and had to take to complete dash out!
And do you have to remove the screw from the engine bay or can you squeeze them out
You just have to loosen it
I meant like can you do it without making it lose and squeeze the hoses out the heater core
@@youssefhassan8524 I'm not sure. I've never tried to. If you do, let me know how you make out
It is not slip and slide at all. To remove old core I had to cut the pipes on the old heater core with a die grinder. For the new one I used lots of grease and still cannot get them to push in against each other and stay flush so I can put the two metal brackets. Am I supposed to be able to push them all the way in or is the brackets supposed to squeeze them closer? At 6:56 it looks like i can see the new o-ring. Did you have to push any further than that? As soon as I push it it comes right out again to that point.
Its slip and slide compared to many other heater cores I've done. Like check out my Dodge Ram heater core video. Whole dash comes out.
and yes. have to push them in further. Flush then clamp. Not great connection design imo
Hello did you find any solution im getting same problem
@@jaskaranjawandha832 I apologize for never responding. Hope you got it resolved. I patched it up until i could get it to the mechanic to fix my mess up. Two years later now. Same problem. I believe the whole system needed to be flushed clean a few times to make sure there is no residual sediment BEFORE installing a new core. Live and learn lol And like the OP stated, system needs to be flushed periodically to avoid this for as long as possible.
Tiguan heater core replacement is a mayor pita! Great video.....
I can imagine! I haven't done one before!
Thank you for a great video.
Going to change mine tomorrow since I have a problem . ( passenger side is blowing colder then driver side) & if blower in hight position the air is getting colder slowly.
Thanks again
No problem! Thank you and good luck on the repair
In having trouble connecting the fire wall hose outlet to the new heater core ony tips?
lube and make sure lined up.
its a little tough tho yea
Is there a tool for that or just by hand?
@@claudiosalazar3372
Having the same problem right now 🤬
Have you fix it ?
Any tips ?
@@elektronplus1 hi do you find any solution upper pipe not matching of heater core
Lubricate O-Rings with what??🙄
Also, can a bad Heater Core cause annoying interior window and windshield Fogging? If so, can you explain why this fogging is occurring?
This is what is happening with my 2015 Passat TSI Wolfsburg edition windows & windshield.
I am still trying to troubleshoot the issue to see if I can do something about it myself. I have no heat coming out of the floor vents specifically & with winter upon us in MI, it's a problem.
Heat seems to be coming out of the top/mid-air vents mostly okay (though I have to sit in the passenger seat to see about the far right side since many people are mentioning that specifically). My front windshield defroster action is definitely not great though.
Same process for 12’ Volkswagen CC?
I am having a hard time trying to put the hoses back on. its fighting me and not wanting to go in. Kinda at a loss at the moment. Any ideas? It seems I might have used too much force to get the heater core hoses off of it and now i think they are a little bent so it doesnt want to go anymore forward and connect to the heater core.
yeah they are a little tough to get on. Make sure to have a little bit of lubricant or grease rubbed on them and that they are straight and lined up before trying to push or force them on. If you bent the back line then the alignment is probably off. Honestly there's not much more I could really tell you but they are definitely a pain in the butt to get on. once they're lined up properly you have to just muscle them into place. Not a great design
Hey brother im having a same problem did you find any solution
P2457 code a symptom as well? I have the heat issues where it blows hot for like 15 seconds
If you have heat on one side, cool only on the other (Climatronic) PLEASE READ!
In a dual heat zone Passat there are two Blend Door Actuators which control the mix of warm and cool air depending on the user setting. One actuator for each side. If in SYNC mode these actuators should travel together and offer the same air temp. These are unfortunately very cheaply made (CHINA). I just replaced my heater core and my issue remained. Took the next step in troubleshooting, and noticed the driver side blend actuator was intermittent. When commanded to a warm setting, the actuator wouldn’t move...when I tapped it it would then travel to the proper position. THESE FAILED ACTUATORS ARE WHAT CAUSE TEMP DIFFERENCES when in SYNC mode. Again, one would think BOSCH would make these for VW but the old and new actuators both state made in China. This part was not fun to replace. It’s buried up in the driver side foot well, above the heater core. Had to take all kinds of stuff apart, but this is possible to fix. Dealer would easily charge well both of $1000. New part was $130. With new heater core and actuator, my 2017 Passat has very hot heat now.
Cool, thank you for adding that detailed information
I had the opposite, tried to replace blend door motor actuator, problem remained the same. Thinking it’s the heater core now in 2013 Jetta GLI
Will this be the same method on 2012 volkswagen tiguan?
Probably a little different I would guesd
Thanks!
Glad you found the video helpful! Thanks very much for the tip
Do they make a after market upgrade of the heatercore ,not aluminum,but a bronze/copper material ?
Not that I know of
AND I THINK THIS JUST SOLVED MY PROBLEM!!!
Any suggestions for when reinstalling cant get heater core hoses to go back in all the way.
Leave them with a little bit of motor oil or coolant
Great video. I have a mk7 gti that is blowing lukewarm. Hope that it's constructed the same way....The job doesn't look too bad, thanks a ton!
Horatio Time Waster same problem. VW says it’s my heater core that’s broken at 42k miles. Already out of warranty.
Do you have to unhook the coolant line in the engine bay going into the firewall? It looks like that wasn't needed.
Yes because you want to drain the coolant. You don't want to spill inside of your car. If you unhook that hose and then blow out what's inside of the heater core you're much less likely to spill inside of your car
Will this be the same process for 2014 tdi ?
I'm not sure off hand to be honest
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow our stopped last night and even triggered a check engine light . i just don't wanna have to remove the whole dash
Got you. My guess would be it's the same or a very similar design to this one
Did you ever get this fixed? I got the new core in easy enough but can't get the pipes on the new one hooked up cause I can't loosen the 6mm bolt on the firewall. I think it's the turbo in the way.
Hello, thank you for the video for replacing the heater core. Could you do a video for replacing the evaporator core for a 2014 VW Jetta?
Does Volkswagen cc have blend door actuator or would that be the heater core clogged?
They do have a blend door. If you follow some of the tips in this video you should be able to verify if it is the heater core or not. Or if you look down in the comments, some other people spoke about the blend door
I have a 2015 Passat with no air coming out off center vents and very weak on outside vents. No heat as well. Do you have any ideas? Thanks
No heat is probably a clogged heater core. But you would need to take some of the steps that I went over in this video to verify that. And as far as the weak air,, if you read down in the comments, a few people had similar issues and discussed the fix
Appreciate the video, can you maybe give some info on what we’re draining and re filling, it’s it same coolant that goes in radiator? Would it be smart to flush radiator when you do this and put all new coolant in?
Hey, there’s probably a answer below to my question but same issue, hot air in driver side but not passenger side. Tried changing blend door motor didn’t solve the problem. Thought maybe it was clogged heater core and did coolant flush, didn’t solve the issue. Now looking towards changing heater core. Let me know your thoughts.
2013 Jetta GLI 2.0 L
I’m guessing it’s the same as the Passat to replace heater core
is this the same removal refit on a VW scirocco 10 plate
I'm not sure
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I HAVE A 2013 VW PASSAT AND ITS BEEN TWO YEARS THAT THE PASSENGER SIDE HOT AIR IS NOT WORKING. I TOOK IT TO THE VW DEALER AND SPENT AROUND $800 ON THIS ISSUE..IT WORKED FOR A FEW WEEKS AND WENT BACK TO BLOWING COLD AIR WHEN I PUT THE HEAT ON..ANY IDEAS 💡 ON THE REAL ISSUE THANKS 😎
NoNonsenseKnowHow ALSO THANKS FOR THE VID I FLUSHED THE COOLING SYSTEM N REPLACED THE HEATER CORE ON MY 2013 VW PASSAT
@@SENSUI347 If you have auto climate controls & heat only from one side, then the right blend door is stuck or actuator may have failed.
@@SENSUI347 sorry just saw your comments now. Did that end up fixing you issue? If you read down in the comments, a few other people had a problem with the passenger side not blowing hot
Video is great! I have the bottom hose disconnected, but can’t seem to get the top one to come loose. Any suggestions?
I have a 2013 vw Jetta gli with the same problem. Any idea if it’s the same set up?
Honestly I don't recall. I think it's basically the same thing. But if you look down in the comments, I think somebody may have asked the same question a while back. sorry I couldn't be of more help
You are a lifesaver, thank you
Great video thanks for taking the time to make it
The plastic lines at the fire wall I have the clips out but cannot get the line to pop off is it just seized or is there a way I need to turn it? Thank you
Great video. How about on 2013 Passat that blow hot air on driver side and cold air on passenger side? It is winter time so want hot on both sides. Car does not have dual climate control so I am baffled on what might cause this.
Thanks. If you read down to the comments, a few people had similar issue and discussed it
Hey I just changed mine on my 14 Passat. How do you get the Air out of the system, mine is still blowing cold Air even at opp Temperature. Any help would be great.
Make sure to check if there's any bleed screws on the system. And if not just leave the cap off and punch the throttle a few times in neutral. Make sure you have it all the way turned too hot. Usually that will take care of it and the water pump pushes enough water to push the air out of the heater core. If not you might have to jack up the front or park on a hill so the front of the vehicle is elevated
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow ok thanks I will give that a shot.
how did you get those hoses pushed back off the orings .. I got like 1/8 " .. but need 1/2 to clear both lines?
Honestly I don't recall, it's been a little bit since I've done one of these. But from what I remember it wasn't that difficult to get them off and get some clearance
some Kroil oil broke the corrosion.. got em off. due to the 3.6l and almost 2 whole inches of firewall clearance.. its swapped. now just to get em lined back up again.. I hate engineers. I really do.
@@sierrasixgrey there are definitely worse heater core jobs, that's for sure. Check out my video on the Dodge Ram heater core. What a joke. You basically have to take the entire inside of the cab out
@@sierrasixgrey glad to hear you got it squared away though. Good stuff
Joshua Woods I see you did the heater core on the 3.6. Did you need to loosen the bolt at the firewall? It is really difficult to get to the firewall in the v6.
I have a 2014 Passat TDI, do you have to drain the coolant before removal? Thanks Jeff
I’m about to do the same and can’t find any answers, but I believe if you keep the lines up after they are off and don’t let the let’s go lower gravity will keep everything in the system. About to find out the hard way though
I am going to try flush mine. Which of those pipes is inlet?
Thanks for the video! I have a 2010 Passat 2.0 T with no heat on the passenger side. I wonder if this procedure work in this vehicle?
Honestly I'm not sure offhand. But if you find it does work for you Passat, let me know and I can update the description. Thanks for your comment and good luck with the repair!
Have same 2010 Passat 2.0 also with same problem. Winter time and passenger got no heat so when my wipers on the right side aren't defrosted. Ice is stuck know the wipers heavy water streaks on windshield when driving
@@calvinwong365 I have the same problem on my 2011 CC. 1 yr ago had the heater core blown out and it worked ok for 3 months...now same problem again...no heat on passenger side. I would think the heater core is fine but some sort of diverter issue...???
Did u replace your heater core? And do u have heat on both sides now? I have no hear on the passenger side and have 2012 passat. Thanks
Alejandro Flores Actually no I haven’t. If I do I will certainly post here and possibly make a video myself.
Is the heater as easy to replace on the B8 version?
Honestly I'm not sure offhand. Let me know what you find out though and I can update the description
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow well I'll surely find out soon and come back with a reply
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow We haven't swapped it out yet but we took out the plastics from underneath the dashboard and it seems to look exactly like on the B7 version.
@@XfStef okay cool, thanks for the update and good luck on the swap
How close is the AC Vent Door Actuator is to that? I need to replace mine. Is that fairly easy? Thanks in advance.
To be honest with you I'm not sure off hand without researching it
NoNonsenseKnowHow VW is saying $1000 for the repair and it seems a bit steep lol.
That would lead me to believe the dash has to come apart to replace it. Ask them what the labor time is, or if they gave you a quote it should have it on there
NoNonsenseKnowHow 1 hour. Part 107.00 from Riley Auto Parts, $350 OME from VW.
@@terrancegregorywright491 well if it's only calling for 1 hour labor then yeah I would definitely do it yourself. Should be an easy job. You might have to do a little research on how to replace it though. I'm not familiar with where the vent door actuator is on these
Hello and sorry for my english.
I have bought a used vw golf 7 1.6 tdi 105hp 2014 model. The last 5 days i am hearing a sound like liquid is running through pipes in the dashboard. Also i hear the sound before i start the engine (for 30sec), as i drive (all the time i am driving) and when i turn off the car again for 30sec. Please do you have any idea or any solution for that; thanks.
It sounds like you have air in your cooling system. Usually this is due to a coolant leak somewhere or sometimes a bad head gasket but that's less common. Have you checked your coolant level in the bottle?
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow i went to my mechanic today and he pressured the coolant bottle to see if there are leaks but nothing happened! yes the coolant level is a little higher from the max point.
hey after installing how should i fill the coolant back up and how much will i need
Megan Heck once you have everything back together just fill up the coolant reservoir until it's up to the fill line and let it run with the cap off till it's up to temperature. To burp out any air. I'm not sure what the coolant capacity was. Probably something like a gallon and a half
Thanks for the video. I have a 2011 GTI with a plugged heater core. I was able to get to the heater core inside the car (very similar to the Passat) but because of the tight fit, I am not sure how to pull the inlet and outlet hose out. Is loosening the 6 mm screw inside the engine compartment will give a little more wiggle room with the two hoses? Is this why i have to loosen the 6 mm screw? Thanks
Hello, does this video applies to vw polo gti (6c) 1.8T 2016?
My polo has no hot air anymore!
Thanks in advance.
The firewall hoses with the clips , do you twist them off or pull them off?
Question about the two aluminum pipes connecting to the Heater core inlets. Did you have to push those pipes forward by pulling from the engine compartment?
Is this the same for a 2015 jetta?
Sorry I don't remember off hand. I believe it's similar. If you look down in the comments though I remember a couple people discussing
I just flushed my coolant a month ago. Is it necessary to drain the coolant? Or will it spill everywhere once you disconnect the lines?
It's a good idea to drain some before disconnecting the hoses if you don't want to create a mess. Or just put a pan underneath to catch the most of it when you disconnect the hoses
Thumbs up 👍 yes on old coolant change it out😊
Thanks for the helpful video, I have a problem, my heater core is plugged up and it's restricting the flow of coolant through my EGR valve cooler so I have an engine light coming on plus my heat didn't work in the winter time so I knew it was plugged up anyways my daughter has the same car 2014 Passat she had the same problem the coolant that they use in these cars I think is a big problem
Hey man what's the panel called that you removed after the little tray thing? I need to order a new one. Also do you know the part number for heater core access panel
What is the time stamp in the video where the part is?
Hi . I am driving vw passat 2013 2.5l . Driving side vents are blowing cold air and passenger side warm air. Its winter its getting hard now. What you think could be the issue and how can i fix it . Thanks
If you read down in the comments, a few people had a similar issue. If one side blowing hot, then a clogged heater core is not your problem. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
Do you need to bleed the coolant ?
Honestly I forget if these have a bleed screw on them or not. I don't think they do. But in either case you'll want to run the engine for a little bit with the cap off to burp out any air bubbles. And if there are any bleed screws on the cooling system make sure to loosen them until coolant comes out
Is it possible to have coolant(hot) comes out of the outlet pipe(circulating) if heater core is plugged?
Yes. Sometimes the heater core is only partially blocked.
Turn the blower on high and let it run for a few minutes with the setting on full hot. Then see if that same hose is still hot
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow
I did that, and it is still hot but not so hot like on the bigining.
Also, when car heats up, it starts to blow hot air for a 1-2min then it goes almost completely cold, just little barely noticeable warm.
Only on left/drivers vent blows warmer!
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow
I checked air circulation direction transferring and it is working, except on the middle back vent, blowing is always very low, no matter what control setup I use, or blower speed.
@@bkingtz1 might have a blend door issue or something different. If you read down to the comments, I briefly remember a few people having similar issues and discussing it in the comments
I just started having trouble with my 2014 Passat. The fan selection doesn't work, it's stuck on floor and won't move to top or defrost vents. Guessing it's the blend door issue but can't find where this part is located. Any ideas?
Sorry I'm not too familiar with where the blend doors are on a passat. I would think if you look up some parts schematics maybe that will help give you some guidance as to where the blend door is located
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Ok thanks! I've been searching all different ways but information seems to be lacking for this model online. I may have to find someone with a service manual?
@@bhelm85 yes, or if you go to the dealership they should have Parts diagrams on their computer and be able to help you
I am getting rdy to do this same thing. Seems like once a year my 2014 needs a heater core. Last time the dealer did it since it was their problem. Did you have to bleed the coolant lines after the replacement?
No, you just have to run the engine for a little while and burp the air out of the cooling system
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow sweet thank you!
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow time for me to replace the core yet again.... . such lousy cores. glad their cheap. 15 bucks from fcp.
this is a great video. But I can't seem to get access to the hose assembly on the firewall to loosen the screw, I assume that is key to removing the tubes to the old core, it is not turning out to be an easy slip and slide at all for me and I assume it is because I can't figure out how to access the screw on the hose assembly. thanks
What year and model are you working on? Yes you have to loosen that little screw in there. Have you tried getting to it from underneath or anything?
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow its a 2012 SE and looks like the one on the video. do i need to remove the heatshield?
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow 2012 Passat 3.6 SE
@@richhackenberg8 honestly it's been a while since I did one of these. I don't remember having to remove the heat shield. But yes if it's in your way then remove the heat shield. Definitely have to get to that screw and loosen it. You don't have to remove it, just have to loosen it
@@richhackenberg8 the one in this video did not have the 3.6l
Bloody hell that was easy!!
Hi, my Vw Passat 2013 r-line with 43k miles on it well it’s in the car garage atm because I’m getting smoke inside the car, I’ve had a new fan with resistor fitted but 3 weeks later my garage has said it’s down to the auxiliary heater that has failed as in a week of them having my car the mechanic has seen smoke coning from the passenger side footwell it only happens when the outside air temp is below 5 degrees so I’m assuming the auxiliary heater is kicking in to warm the coolant/inside of the car faster, I’m trying to get myself knowledgeable on how to take it out so I can let others know, is the auxiliary heater fitted along side the heater core ?? Thanks 🙏
I can’t believe it’s that easy. Volkswagen charged me $1500 to replace mine a couple of months ago. Never again
I can't get the panel under the steering wheel to come loose from the center console corner right by the sifter and AC controls. I can't figure out if it's supposed to slide out of the center console or pull up from it. It's the panel that has the headlight switch all the way over to next to the radio. Pulled all bolts but that panel won't seperate from the center console trim
I ended up having to take the bottom of the steering wheel trim off just to get that panel off. This is crazy ha
I have a 2014 TDI SE, and two things happened at once. CEL came on with the error code P2547, and the air vent stopped blowing hot air. P2547 is an EGR code, and I think the EGR is downstream from the heater core, so I believe the sensor isnt reading temperature values in the right range since the heater core is clogged. I cross checked this by comparing temperatures on the inlet and outlet pipes/hoses of the heater core, and after running the car for 15 minutes, one stays cold (I think they should be similar in temperature). I have ordered the replacement core from VW and will be using this video to fix it myself since mechanics are quoting $900 for the fix.
Did it fix your problem?
If you can push the hose forward from inside the car, is it really necessary to disconnect the hoses in the engine bay? Great tutorial btw!
Been a while since I did one of these so I couldn't tell you for sure. And thanks!
Please can you do one for VW Golf mk7 and also show me where the inlet and outlet hoses are?
Are they not the same as the Jetta? I will certainly do one in the future if I ever have the opportunity to replace one on a golf
Will a clogged heater core make the engine slow to warm up? Great video, Thanks
Not generally. Usually a stuck open or worn out thermostat spring will cause that. Clogged heater core will cause it to take much longer to get heat though. And thanks
Hi,
Great vid. One question.. On golf mk7 (2014) do you need to take out the dashboard in order to replace the heater core? Or you can access it in the same way as on the 2014 Passat?
Thanks.
+zolilwtf honestly im not sure off hand. I havent replaced one yet
I managed to get a repair manual for mk7 golf and pretty much it says you can do it the same way you did. thanks again.
Zoltan K. I need to do my golf! Can I ask if your in the UK? Where did you get your replacement matrix from? And this repair guide you speak of?
Unfortunately I'm not in the UK. I got the heater core from a local shop in my country. Basically there are two types of heater cores for the golf MK7, you either have the VALEO or the DENSO. (You need to unmount the plastic cover and check it before buying one) If you have the VALEO type like I do then the part number is Valeo 715303.
If you have a knee airbag like I do, you will need to unmount it as well :/ You can find the Golf mk7 repair manual online.
Zoltan K. Thanks for the reply! The weather is terrible here at the moment which is a brilliant time to have a blocked matrix 😂 fortunately the heating is working a little and is enough to cope with defrosting the glass. Im unsure if access to the matrix will be on the drivers side on my car? (right hand drive)
having trouble getting 4th 6mm screw off heater core panel-its under the blender (yellow tube)
any tips? thanks
I used a screw driver to barely pry away. I might not reinstall.
Do the auto service centers really check and figure out what problem it is and let us know ? Thx 🙏
I'm not understanding the loose clamp near the end when you are installing the new heater core. Am I missing something? Does it clamp tighter and you just skipped that part in the video?
Sir, thank you. I do have a question, what if heat is coming out of the driver side and not the passenger side (single not duo settings) and after about 30 min then hot air comes out the passenger vents. Same with defrost. What would be the issue?? I have a 2012 VW Tiguan.