We call those valves "Reed Plate Valves. They stop working when debris gets through the intake or a piece of gasket gets stuck under them holding the Reed open. They do break from metal fatigue eventually. Good Video!
Great video! Thank you. I work in facility maintenance and we have this type of reciprocating compressors. Could you make some videos on full maintenance procedures for this type of unit? We have a couple that uses synthetic oil and doesn’t have an oil filter. I was surprised to see to say the least.
THERE ARE SLIGHT DIFFERENCES!! When ordering gaskets make sure you get exact fit. Some differ very slightly, as my type 30 is a C4, model built in 1945. Still works great and I was able to save the valves and clean it all up. Rebuild kit for mine is around $75 with no new rods. Tear yours down first, and make sure you even need it or just need to clean it up and rebend the reed valves to proper angle. F.Y.I.s' - -The screws holding the reeds are delicate, use the proper size flathead. There are two reeds, one on each side. Make sure you don't put them on backwards (top one on bottomside, etc.) -Dont forget the lock washers on them. -The reads are at a bent angle for a reason. If they are not broken and are still nice and flat, re use them. -My pump's reeds were just flattened over the years, a little dirty. -My pump has sturdy black composite gaskets. Not sure if they were original but they cleaned up nicely and were not too squished to use again. -DO NOT use any silicone gasket material! This is a dry fit and torqued setup ONLY! -Torque everything together with PROPER torque. (I won't even tell you #s' because you need to make sure its proper for YOUR PUMP'S YEAR!) -IF YOU EVER COME ACROSS THESE PUMPS EVEN BURIED IN DIRT AND JUST AS OLD, GET IT, FIX IT UP AND SELL EASY. YOU CAN ALWAYS GET PARTS FOR THESE AWSOME COMPRESSORS.
Hello Ken, I replaced my gaskets just like you showed us on your video, it was working great but suddenly after 10 days my safety valve on top of the big cylinder is popping in and out as the compressor is pumping air and won't fill it up, do you think my gaskets blew already? please let me know , I appreciate your help, thank you
Ok everyone on this post my compressor has T30560V stamped on the Ingersoll Rand ID plate and a serial number of 69757. When I tore my head down to compare to pics to try and find a match I came across this video. The head in your tutorial looks identical to mine, but I have no way of comparing the size other than it looks to be the same. I can not find any information on the internet related to this model number given. On the tank plate I was able to see year model was 1992. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
You made a serious mistake in the torque rating chart. The chart is referring to the thread size not the bolt head size. A 9/16 bolt head would normally have a 3/8 thread size. Good video though.
We have a Type-30 Model: 30T 223 it's an old model and nobody has it but our compressor works very well just needs an overhaul. where can I find its parts? is there any other guidance about 223 model?
Oh man, you got lucky. Its not a 9/16 bolt. Your experience saved you from breaking off a head bolt. Even 30 is over-torqued Head bolt torque: The small (HP) head uses 3/8 -16 bolts (the bolt head is irrelevant) and from IR's table it should be torqued to 21-24 ft-lbs. other than that...good job. Im rebuilding an older 242 pump and my new gaskets are "graphoil" ie - no antisieze reqd.
Hey buddy I have a question I have the same compressor but it sounds like knocking or Baron noise from the output shaft of the pump I would say it sounds more of a bearing going bad have you ever heard of that
I'm from Russia. Sorry for the bad English, I use google translate. The boss gave me the task of repairing this compressor. Ingersall Rand Type 30 model 242. I did a cylinder re-sleeve. But I can't find piston rings on HP piston. What car are these piston rings from?
I have one of these in the UK, unfortunately with a bent crankshaft! It has obviously rolled over on the flywheel during a move. It isn't massively bent but enough to give about a 2 or 3mm runnout at the flywheel edge. A crank in the UK is MASSIVELY expensive, any recommendations where I could find one in the US at a reasonable price?
@@KenTrainingHello Ken last night i did the exact work on the same model air compressor , after completing the work my compressor is popping the same blow off valve after compressor kicks off . it pops roughly every thirty seconds. my bottom reed valve was broken. Is there a check valve that is leaking back ?
@@johnathoncarter7801 You were right first time...u probab figured it out by now, but its the big check valve on the tank where you get your usable air. if it leaks pressure will be on the heads after the head pressure valve has emptied the head pressure, so the lower pressure popoff valve blows open when it gets to 75 psi like he told us here. there should never be any pressure on the heads after shutoff...zero
Hey Ken, this video is great, we have the same model compressor where I work with the same exact problem, I am hoping I will be able to repair it like you did. This video helped a lot. Where did you download the Type 30 compressor data?
I'm pretty sure that you got the gaskets on there sideways and the marks you made are on the Flux capacitor that connects to the jubilator that runs into the blinker fluid tank then comes out of the discharge pipe that will shoot a stream of antiseize and save the clock tower
thank you so much for the video, you have no idea how much your helped me.
Thanks for the video! Got mine back up and running, back to metalwork!
We Just fix our compressor by watching your video... it's working perfect, thank you
We call those valves "Reed Plate Valves. They stop working when debris gets through the intake or a piece of gasket gets stuck under them holding the Reed open. They do break from metal fatigue eventually.
Good Video!
Ken, You are the Men! Really appreciate for this video.
Great information. Very clear and informed. Thank You
Great video! Thank you.
I work in facility maintenance and we have this type of reciprocating compressors. Could you make some videos on full maintenance procedures for this type of unit? We have a couple that uses synthetic oil and doesn’t have an oil filter. I was surprised to see to say the least.
Very informative & lucid......
THERE ARE SLIGHT DIFFERENCES!!
When ordering gaskets make sure you get exact fit. Some differ very slightly, as my type 30 is a C4, model built in 1945. Still works great and I was able to save the valves and clean it all up. Rebuild kit for mine is around $75 with no new rods. Tear yours down first, and make sure you even need it or just need to clean it up and rebend the reed valves to proper angle.
F.Y.I.s' -
-The screws holding the reeds are delicate, use the proper size flathead.
There are two reeds, one on each side. Make sure you don't put them on backwards (top one on bottomside, etc.)
-Dont forget the lock washers on them.
-The reads are at a bent angle for a reason. If they are not broken and are still nice and flat, re use them.
-My pump's reeds were just flattened over the years, a little dirty.
-My pump has sturdy black composite gaskets. Not sure if they were original but they cleaned up nicely and were not too squished to use again.
-DO NOT use any silicone gasket material! This is a dry fit and torqued setup ONLY!
-Torque everything together with PROPER torque. (I won't even tell you #s' because you need to make sure its proper for YOUR PUMP'S YEAR!)
-IF YOU EVER COME ACROSS THESE PUMPS EVEN BURIED IN DIRT AND JUST AS OLD, GET IT, FIX IT UP AND SELL EASY. YOU CAN ALWAYS GET PARTS FOR THESE AWSOME COMPRESSORS.
Hello Ken, I replaced my gaskets just like you showed us on your video, it was working great but suddenly after 10 days my safety valve on top of the big cylinder is popping in and out as the compressor is pumping air and won't fill it up, do you think my gaskets blew already? please let me know , I appreciate your help, thank you
Thanks Man Very Good Job, You Help me to Looking Good lol :)
its a beam arm torque wrench not a dial torque wrench. but good informative video
Ok everyone on this post my compressor has T30560V stamped on the Ingersoll Rand ID plate and a serial number of 69757. When I tore my head down to compare to pics to try and find a match I came across this video. The head in your tutorial looks identical to mine, but I have no way of comparing the size other than it looks to be the same. I can not find any information on the internet related to this model number given. On the tank plate I was able to see year model was 1992. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
You made a serious mistake in the torque rating chart. The chart is referring to the thread size not the bolt head size. A 9/16 bolt head would normally have a 3/8 thread size. Good video though.
Thank you! you are the first person to bring this to my attention. I will adjust moving forward.
We have a Type-30 Model: 30T 223
it's an old model and nobody has it but our compressor works very well just needs an overhaul. where can I find its parts? is there any other guidance about 223 model?
Oh man, you got lucky. Its not a 9/16 bolt. Your experience saved you from breaking off a head bolt. Even 30 is over-torqued
Head bolt torque: The small (HP) head uses 3/8 -16 bolts (the bolt head is irrelevant) and from IR's table it should be torqued to 21-24 ft-lbs. other than that...good job.
Im rebuilding an older 242 pump and my new gaskets are "graphoil" ie - no antisieze reqd.
Hey buddy I have a question I have the same compressor but it sounds like knocking or Baron noise from the output shaft of the pump I would say it sounds more of a bearing going bad have you ever heard of that
I have not but I don't work on that many air compressors.
I'm from Russia. Sorry for the bad English, I use google translate.
The boss gave me the task of repairing this compressor. Ingersall Rand Type 30 model 242. I did a cylinder re-sleeve. But I can't find piston rings on HP piston. What car are these piston rings from?
I don't think they came from a car...
@@KenTraining eBay does not ship to Russia. I don't know where to find piston rings for this compressor. Can you help me?
I have one of these in the UK, unfortunately with a bent crankshaft! It has obviously rolled over on the flywheel during a move. It isn't massively bent but enough to give about a 2 or 3mm runnout at the flywheel edge. A crank in the UK is MASSIVELY expensive, any recommendations where I could find one in the US at a reasonable price?
+turboslag all I say is google. good luck.
turboslag you can true it back up with a pipe wrench
Hello is the round red electric device on the compressor a heater ?
I believe that is a low oil switch.
@@KenTrainingHello Ken last night i did the exact work on the same model air compressor , after completing the work my compressor is popping the same blow off valve after compressor kicks off . it pops roughly every thirty seconds. my bottom reed valve was broken. Is there a check valve that is leaking back ?
@@johnathoncarter7801 The Reed valve is acting as the check valve.
@@johnathoncarter7801 You were right first time...u probab figured it out by now, but its the big check valve on the tank where you get your usable air. if it leaks pressure will be on the heads after the head pressure valve has emptied the head pressure, so the lower pressure popoff valve blows open when it gets to 75 psi like he told us here. there should never be any pressure on the heads after shutoff...zero
Would be nice to show where to buy parts besides Amazon or eBay
According to the rebuild instructions from IR the correct torque is 35 pounds. You should re-torque after 15 minutes then 30 minutes of run time
Thank you, that does sound more accurate.
Hey Ken, this video is great, we have the same model compressor where I work with the same exact problem, I am hoping I will be able to repair it like you did. This video helped a lot. Where did you download the Type 30 compressor data?
it was just a Google search. I got the parts at Ecompressedair.com kit # 32249294 for about $20
@@KenTraining Same part is now $32.00
Awesome
sir, i am planing to buy vespa 1/4 HP air compressor could it withstand when we will use it for our 4 wheel vehicle and repainting jobs at home?
+odnalor tamarac I have no idea, but maybe another RUclipsr will comment.
Anyone know the difference between the IR 242-5D and the one I have which is a IR 242-5N ?
I'm pretty sure that you got the gaskets on there sideways and the marks you made are on the Flux capacitor that connects to the jubilator that runs into the blinker fluid tank then comes out of the discharge pipe that will shoot a stream of antiseize and save the clock tower
do you know what speed max is these pumps can run?
No, I don't know the max speed. I would keep the manufactures pulley sizes.
xjs2 I have the same pump mine is 1500 rpm pump shaft speed
High pressure cylinder of tampretur rigen