@@eanzano glad to hear you were able to get it done so much faster than i was haha. How do you like the sound? It is 100% different right? Bass makes music so much better!!!!!
if i never wasted a single dollar in my life on something i could agree with you, but some of us buy what we want when we can afford it... i'll bet you have a ton of money in the bank with your mindset... that's great, but i'd rather have memories and fun more than extra cash laying around.
right on, and thanks for the vote of confidence! I am working on editing a quick "how to" video for installing this sub in the back of the truck without going through all the pain and learning curve i went through.
Great video, very informative. Thank you. Could you provide a quick rundown video of how you retrofitted the kicker wiring harness to the ford wiring harness (what wires connected where?) also how you tuned the kicker subwoofer. Thanks!
Absolutely! That is my plan for today, I didn’t get this video don’t until 2300 last night but I will go through the entire wiring process and everything about the different settings and controls in a video today! Cheers and thanks for the suggestion
Sounds like you know what you're talking about when it comes to sound, sound quality dosnt really bother me too much these days as I listen to podcasts, or the exhaust ;)
right on... the stock speaker isn't bad by any means... it is actually really good, just missing that low end kick that i was personally looking for. When it comes to Audio books i turn the bass down a bit and up the treble and mids so i can listen to it without too much volume
great news that you have your build date! I dont think i will do any sound deadening on this truck... it is pretty quiet right now. If it starts to rattle at all over the next couple months i may consider it. If you end up doing it when you get your truck, let me know if it makes a big difference and then i may do it too haha.
Love your work 😊 We got a different sub in ours 🤔 It measures 220mm x 150mm. Whole different set up. Don’t know how to send a pic but yeah! Interesting. Looking forward to more vids. U crazy Bro 👍🏼
Thank you for the video, it was a great help! Mainly it helped to know the old sub wouldn’t just come right out. So instead of jacking with the amp and seat, I just used the SawsAll to cut the damn thing .. came right out! 😂 Also, I used a heavy wire to guide the power wire through the firewall. So the whole install took about 2hrs thanks to your tips! 👍🏻
Welcome to car audio. Been doing my own installs for a while now. I’m just now at the point where I installed two 15 inch subs, two amps doing 12k watts. I have a 2020 escape with the b/o system as well. I have skar speakers in the doors much better sound. I have high output alternator, multiple 2/0 wiring, and lithium batteries.
That’s awesome! I have been installing car audio on my own vehicles since the 90s as well. I used to run lots of power and big subs but I have kids that don’t appreciate it as much as I do so now I just go for loud but clear with a bit of nice tight bass
I'm looking at a Ranger lariat with the b&o system. I've always had aftermarket systems in my vehicles. Usually 2 12's but as I get older I don't need all that bass. In my f150 I have aftermarket speakers, a 240w amp pushing the highs and a self powered 10" Rockford sub. It's good enough for me. This factory sub in the b&o is a laughable. Thanks for the video.
Yeah, I always built my own enclosures and installed my own afterwards sound system in my vehicles. Usually 2 x 10” subs and 2 amps for the subs and other speakers. When I saw the ‘sub’ in the stock B&O system I had to laugh.
So did you re-install / re-connect the factory amplifier such that it's installed, just not powering anything? I'll also be interesting to see how you secure the sub. I'm looking at the 10", given that it's only 1/2" wider and looks like it would fit.
The factory amp is powering all of the other speakers and I took the signal/power wires that were going to the factory sub and connected them to the high level inputs for the new sub. Only thing i did was cut out the factory sub and use those wires for the new one
Would make it make the sound a bit louder cause im really satisfied but when I roll the windows down and driving 120 - 140 kph I just needed to be tiny bit louder so does the new subwoofer make it a bit louder
@@flaberdoopin thats awesome to know cause while the windows are up it’s amazing and I don’t need more but when the windows are down it’s like I don’t hear that much of the music
Definitely a cool upgrade but I’m pretty happy so far with the stock speakers maybe in the summer with the windows down I’d want something louder? But nice job!
Thanks. Most of the time I just listen to audio books so it isn’t necessary but when I am in the mood for music this new sub will really help round out the otherwise stellar sound system
@@flaberdoopin thanks man!, why didn't you go with KICKER 46HS10? or a 10inch type since i read 8inch is still considered kind of small for a mid size pickup?
I thought about that as well and even the highest amp switch is at the low end of what is required and then you still have to run it through the firewall. I wouldn’t do it that way personally because if it did end up blowing the relay that would be a lot more expensive to replace than an inline fuse, just my $0.02. Cheers
Not yet, I have all the stuff I need to do it but I haven’t gotten to it yet with all my school work and other projects. I’ll do it before winter for sure. Hopefully I’ll have time later this month!
Hey, me again ! You wouldn't believe it, went out today to do this and here (in Australia) our sub looks NOTHING like yours in the US. We don't have an enclosure, we have a 6x9 with a slightly deeper magnet housing. 🙄 Thinking of daisy chaining the 6x9 to the kicker? Thoughts? Cheers
Howzit?! Not sure about pulling the high power signal and keeping it hooked up, it’s worth a try for sure… I think it should work if you just wire the sub inputs in parallel to the 6x9 since that is what it is built for. (Normally you would tap into the rear door speaker signal for these hideaway subs). Let me know how it goes! Cheers
@@arigold2654I just noticed the Same, did you just combine the two positive and two negative to the two wires running into our aus spec subs? Did it work?
Thanks for all the Ranger Raptor content you've been putting out. I have a question regarding the factory amp.. I've read online that it's a 650w amp but I'm not quite sure. I'm looking for a stealth enclosure sub like the kicker hideaway but I'm looking at alternative companies with a 10" sub. If you were to guess, what's the safe max RMS wattage and peak wattage sub I should be shopping for if I want to only use the factory amp?
The factory amp will have a really hard time powering anything bigger than the stock sub in my opinion. If you get something like the kicker hideaway 10” that has a small amp in the enclosure itself you can just run power and a signal wire to it and have plenty of base. Some really efficient subs like an MB Quart may run off the factory amp but that 650 is peak power, it is probably closer to 150-175 RMS for the whole system
@@flaberdoopin From your video, are you pulling the signal wire from the factory amp? Did you need to purchase anything other than the hideaway sub? I plan on getting the 10" and seeing how it goes. My days of using the big boy JL 12w6v2's are long gone.. The ranger's system is just missing some depth and hopefully one of HS10's will help. Rest of the speakers are good enough for me. Thanks for the insight and content!
I didn’t take the signal that goes into the amp, it comes over a mini USB port that is integrated into the amp with other data, is just used the signal/power for the stock sub as high level inputs for the new powered subwoofer. I used the kicker 8” but I have talked to a few guys who said the 10” hideaway fits perfectly in there as well if you want a bit more bass… only hard part was running the power wire through the firewall but it was only hard cuz I was an idiot and using the wrong tools, with a hand full of zip ties, some electrical tape and a bit of spray lube, you can do it in 5-10 minutes! Good luck and please feel free to send me an email or message if you have questions. Email is flaberdoopin@gmail.com
Did you have any issue with noise cancellation causing the sub to go crazy for no reason? And I'm surprised you have that sub enclosed like that in Australia we get the 6x9 version of the sub
No issues at all with the new sub, I is working perfectly. We have 6x9s in the front doors and 6.5s in the rear… the sub was smaller than either door speaker… crazy
I absolutely did consider it. 25 amp at 12 volts should be able to handle 300 watts but all of the aux switch wiring is outside the cab so would have to get thru the firewall one way or another. If the remote turn on didn’t work I was going to use an aux switch for the 12 power signal. Would be fun to be able to ‘engage bass mode’ (switch flip) haha
Stock sub depth from back of flange to bottom of magnet is 2.5”… inner diameter of enclosure is 5” exactly… mounting holes are 6” apart, depth of enclosure is barely big enough to fit the 2.5” deep stock sub. A better speaker in this enclosure won’t do much unless you also add an amplifier, it isn’t getting all that much power
After doing this, do you think the 10 would have fit or are the dimensions too different? I was considering the 10 last week. My RR arrived in Atlanta (1.5 hours away) 12 days ago, and isn't scheduled to be delivered until the 25th...
I think you could make the 10 fit, it is only about an inch longer and almost the same length. you may have to cut a little bit of the back padding on the rear wall of the cab but that isn't a big deal. To be honest, the 8 is more than enough for the rest of the stereo... i have the gain down at only 2 out of 6 and it is already plenty loud and i listen to dubstep and other techno with lots of bass... but i'm also 42 and getting lamer and lamer every year so maybe a 10 would be better. I'll pull out my old Dr. Dre albums and play that on this and see if it reminds me of my old high school stereo setups with 2x12's in a ported box haha.
This is very interesting, and I’m really surprised at the factory fitted sub being woefully under par - you would think the audio boffins at Ford would’ve done some research into the best set up with BNO!!??
Yeah, if you don’t listen to music with a good bit of bass the stock 10 speaker system is great but I like to feel it a bit more than stock was giving me. This little powered 8 is perfect for my needs
My RR should be here next week so will line up some favourites to test out the sound system…. With that in mind, is BlueTooth audio better than audio over Carplay? My hopes are that some-one does a direct replacement for the sub… but I guess anything bigger needs its own power supply - hence your ‘patience testing’ install. :-0
I think the audio between Bluetooth and CarPlay are almost identical, I can not tell any difference. Now that I have done the install it wouldn’t be too hard to do again but it was super painful that first time with the wrong tools to get the wire thru the firewall
So I just picked up my Raptor today and checked the sub, which sounded a lot better then I was expecting… turns out it’s a completely different sub to the one you have - happy to drop you a pic.
Just got a 21' ranger with the "upgraded sound". I'm an audiophile and can tell you my 2005 Xterra has a better sound system. Looking forward to making this upgrade soon.
Can you / Did you get actual measurements on the B&O subwoofer size? thought it'd be a 6 1/2 of 6/3/4 given you comments. Any measurements on the OEM box or speaker mounting depth?
It looks like a 5 1/2” after measuring different parts of it. Diameter of the speaker cone itself is smaller than 4.5 inches… outer diameter of speaker hole is about 5.5 and it is observable by the naked eye that it is smaller than the 6.5” in the rear doors.
@@flaberdoopin I see that you keep using the old speaker as a parts magnet (smart). Is there a part number on the speaker itself (not sub enclosure) to get exact measurements for drop-in replacement?
@@AgntCpr i dont have a part number for the sub but i measured the enclosure and the diameter of the cutout for the speaker is exactly 5 inches and the diameter from screw hole to screw hole directly across from each other is exactly 6 inches. hope that helps. I have never tried to order an aftermarket sub that small... not sure who makes them and if you are looking for direct replacement, you would need dual voice coil that can run on relatively low power
I really liked the tutorial of your videos if it brings a better sound it's great what I regret is that you put everything in fast speed we didn't really see the connections and corrections that you made on the wiring
yeah, sorry about that. i didn't want to lose 99% of the people watching by makig it an hour plus. I would be happy to make a detailed video about the wiring in a week or two and post that. I am upgrading the door speakers this weekend too so i'll just wrap it all into one "stereo upgrade" video
It does have the B&O, but it was just a bit underwhelming for what I was looking for. I have always upgraded car audio and I enjoy doing it and love really loud music.
@@flaberdoopin I understand in this case on a common point I agree could you make a video of the sound before and after and I would be very interested to see what type of speaker you are going to use I will try to do the same thank you
Yes, you can still increase and decrease bass level from the tablet as required. I have the gain set to about 40-45% and do all adjustments in the settings on the screen
@@flaberdoopin Thanks, appreciate the video too. Did you ever do a follow-up video showing/explaining the wiring of the kicker to the Ford original wiring?
I agree. When I am on the twisty roads where I’m on and off the throttle, the radio is usually off but when cruising for a long time I like some tunes.
I was able to get the jack stand back in (at a bit of an angle) and that is holding the bottom of the amp extremely securely and the top is held by the seat when it is up. It isn’t moving at all so I don’t really have any plans to do more than that.
No, not with the music i listen to. I think if i turned it way up it might but then it doesn't sound all that good and you hear stuff rattling more than you hear the bass. Generally you need a 12 or 2X10's with a ported enclosure for that kind of bass from what i have experienced. This 10 just provides some nice tight bass. I also have the gain down below 1/3 of what it is capable of.
90% of the time, i am listening to an audio book on my way to and from school but i will be graduating in 2 months and then i'll go back to listening to dubstep and other electronic music... i also like to listen to crazy pirate / sea shanty music like 'The Dreadnoughts', Nathan Evans and anything else that pops up like that on pandora.
These videos are awesome!! Keep up the great information. Definitely going to do this when I get mine hopefully this month.(EDIT: Just watched the whole thing and too involved for me lol. Wish there was a plug-n-play solution). Any chance you can take apart the rear view mirror assembly for the potential for a mirror tap and radar detector?
I am putting together a how to video for this subwoofer install... it isn't as bad as i made it out to be in this video... after you see that one make a decision on if you want to give it a try or not. I dont want to take the rear view mirror apart at the moment because the current plastic piece on there is missing a clip and the dealership is ordering me a new one... when i get that i'll just tell them that i will be installing it myself and i can get the video of that then.
Haha, thanks! I honestly can’t believe I forgot to do that before I closed the hood at the end and when I got the ‘check brake’ warning I thought I fried some electrical components, took me like 15 min to remember I disconnected the brake fluid level sensor! Cheers
If you want the stereo to be well rounded it is totally worth it, but you have a point, a lot of people aren’t as concerned about the audio system as I am. Maybe I am exaggerating the importance a little but it makes such a huge difference and it seems to fit in that spot REALLY well.
Hats off to you man! Just installed Kickers 10" Sub. Only took less than an hour. Thanks to your tips and tricks, they help me a lot. Thanks again...
@@eanzano glad to hear you were able to get it done so much faster than i was haha. How do you like the sound? It is 100% different right? Bass makes music so much better!!!!!
@@flaberdoopin definitely better. It’s disappointing ford put in the THING and called it a subwoofer.
@@eanzano i am with you… i use my stock “subwoofer” as a parts holder when i take the truck apart haha. At least it has some sort of use now
Hey, do not forget to hook up that sensor plug thing.
great content. keep up the good work
Haha, I totally did forget and got a brake system alert light when I started it up haha
Loving the videos. Looking in NJ to purchase but hard to navigate the insane mark Ups. Dealers looking for 10 to 15k over if not 20k up here.
Some of these markups are absolutely crazy. I was cool with 2k but any more than that and I would have waited.
Imagine being the dumb ass to pay even 1$ over MSRP .i can buy a fleet but im not a sucker for
if i never wasted a single dollar in my life on something i could agree with you, but some of us buy what we want when we can afford it... i'll bet you have a ton of money in the bank with your mindset... that's great, but i'd rather have memories and fun more than extra cash laying around.
“Therein lies the tale” ~ Rod Sterling… “The Music Man”, congratulations guy a beautiful demonstration of sheer determination!!!
Thanks! It makes such a huge difference!
Glad to see the plywood getting some good use...
Hahahaha, I will use it eventually! You are hilarious though, can’t believe someone noticed that it was the same piece.
Damn, Yaz stole my comment. LOL!!!
Awesome idea! Great video! I may have to do this to mine. I appreciate all your input, hard work and determination.
right on, and thanks for the vote of confidence! I am working on editing a quick "how to" video for installing this sub in the back of the truck without going through all the pain and learning curve i went through.
Great video, very informative. Thank you.
Could you provide a quick rundown video of how you retrofitted the kicker wiring harness to the ford wiring harness (what wires connected where?) also how you tuned the kicker subwoofer.
Thanks!
Absolutely! That is my plan for today, I didn’t get this video don’t until 2300 last night but I will go through the entire wiring process and everything about the different settings and controls in a video today! Cheers and thanks for the suggestion
@@flaberdoopin Legend, thanks.
Supporting from Australia.
awesome, thanks a lot!
You can take a wire coat hanger and bend it in to an improvised wire puller to pull through the fire wall.
I should have done that from the start! Would have saved a lot of time and heartache!
@@flaberdoopin Doesn't work. I tried this on my 23' XLT Tremor, and it was the same 3-layer grommet.
Sounds like you know what you're talking about when it comes to sound, sound quality dosnt really bother me too much these days as I listen to podcasts, or the exhaust ;)
right on... the stock speaker isn't bad by any means... it is actually really good, just missing that low end kick that i was personally looking for. When it comes to Audio books i turn the bass down a bit and up the treble and mids so i can listen to it without too much volume
Are you going to put some sound deading insulation under the headliner? Im considering it when my truck shows up in June. 5/6 build date i cant wait!
great news that you have your build date! I dont think i will do any sound deadening on this truck... it is pretty quiet right now. If it starts to rattle at all over the next couple months i may consider it. If you end up doing it when you get your truck, let me know if it makes a big difference and then i may do it too haha.
@@flaberdoopin thiers a video on here somewhere of an Australian guy that did it. He said it makes a huge difference 🤷♂️
Love your work 😊 We got a different sub in ours 🤔 It measures 220mm x 150mm. Whole different set up. Don’t know how to send a pic but yeah! Interesting. Looking forward to more vids. U crazy Bro 👍🏼
Right on. This isn’t the only option by any means but it was what was in stock at the local shop and it fits perfectly. Cheers
Thank you for the video, it was a great help! Mainly it helped to know the old sub wouldn’t just come right out. So instead of jacking with the amp and seat, I just used the SawsAll to cut the damn thing .. came right out! 😂 Also, I used a heavy wire to guide the power wire through the firewall. So the whole install took about 2hrs thanks to your tips! 👍🏻
right on! that's the way to get it done... glad it wasn't as painful for you as it was for me. did you go with the 8" or 10"? does it sound awesome?
Welcome to car audio. Been doing my own installs for a while now. I’m just now at the point where I installed two 15 inch subs, two amps doing 12k watts. I have a 2020 escape with the b/o system as well. I have skar speakers in the doors much better sound. I have high output alternator, multiple 2/0 wiring, and lithium batteries.
That’s awesome! I have been installing car audio on my own vehicles since the 90s as well. I used to run lots of power and big subs but I have kids that don’t appreciate it as much as I do so now I just go for loud but clear with a bit of nice tight bass
I'm looking at a Ranger lariat with the b&o system. I've always had aftermarket systems in my vehicles. Usually 2 12's but as I get older I don't need all that bass. In my f150 I have aftermarket speakers, a 240w amp pushing the highs and a self powered 10" Rockford sub. It's good enough for me. This factory sub in the b&o is a laughable. Thanks for the video.
Yeah, I always built my own enclosures and installed my own afterwards sound system in my vehicles. Usually 2 x 10” subs and 2 amps for the subs and other speakers. When I saw the ‘sub’ in the stock B&O system I had to laugh.
So did you re-install / re-connect the factory amplifier such that it's installed, just not powering anything? I'll also be interesting to see how you secure the sub. I'm looking at the 10", given that it's only 1/2" wider and looks like it would fit.
The factory amp is powering all of the other speakers and I took the signal/power wires that were going to the factory sub and connected them to the high level inputs for the new sub. Only thing i did was cut out the factory sub and use those wires for the new one
Would make it make the sound a bit louder cause im really satisfied but when I roll the windows down and driving 120 - 140 kph I just needed to be tiny bit louder so does the new subwoofer make it a bit louder
For windows down music, this will make a huge difference!
@@flaberdoopin thats awesome to know cause while the windows are up it’s amazing and I don’t need more but when the windows are down it’s like I don’t hear that much of the music
Very Nice mod! i`m waiting my Raptor, it will arrive in may! Thanks for the vids!
May is just around the corner! Congrats and I can’t wait to see some videos of your new truck when you get it
In Australia we don't even get the ported enclosure! Just the sub bolted to the back wall. And we get no cover over the amp.
That is crazy!
Hey did you plug in the thing?
Only after my car gave me a warning about the brake system! I totally forgot until then though!
Definitely a cool upgrade but I’m pretty happy so far with the stock speakers maybe in the summer with the windows down I’d want something louder? But nice job!
Thanks. Most of the time I just listen to audio books so it isn’t necessary but when I am in the mood for music this new sub will really help round out the otherwise stellar sound system
@@flaberdoopinu can now embarrass ur kids at the school pick up with the coolest truck and the best speaker set up 😂😂
If you can please give us a link of the subwoofer please!
Man, my brain was fried yesterday, I can’t believe I forgot to do this! Here is the link, I’ll put it in the info as well. a.co/d/hEUzZci
@@flaberdoopin thanks man!, why didn't you go with KICKER 46HS10? or a 10inch type since i read 8inch is still considered kind of small for a mid size pickup?
I want to do this, but I wonder if it would be easier to wire the power wire to one of the Aux switches? What do you think????
I thought about that as well and even the highest amp switch is at the low end of what is required and then you still have to run it through the firewall. I wouldn’t do it that way personally because if it did end up blowing the relay that would be a lot more expensive to replace than an inline fuse, just my $0.02. Cheers
@@flaberdoopin welp then I shall NOT do it that way! Thanks for the reply!
Did you ever make a video of cleaning, painting, etc., the driveshaft rust?
Not yet, I have all the stuff I need to do it but I haven’t gotten to it yet with all my school work and other projects. I’ll do it before winter for sure. Hopefully I’ll have time later this month!
Hey, me again ! You wouldn't believe it, went out today to do this and here (in Australia) our sub looks NOTHING like yours in the US. We don't have an enclosure, we have a 6x9 with a slightly deeper magnet housing. 🙄 Thinking of daisy chaining the 6x9 to the kicker? Thoughts? Cheers
Howzit?! Not sure about pulling the high power signal and keeping it hooked up, it’s worth a try for sure… I think it should work if you just wire the sub inputs in parallel to the 6x9 since that is what it is built for. (Normally you would tap into the rear door speaker signal for these hideaway subs). Let me know how it goes! Cheers
@@flaberdoopin Will do, need to remove the 6x9 and see what kind of space Im looking at. Replicating your fit out is the preferred.
@@arigold2654I just noticed the Same, did you just combine the two positive and two negative to the two wires running into our aus spec subs? Did it work?
So how did you end up mounting the new sub behind the seat? I must've missed that part?
I just have it held in by the jack bolted back down and the seat back. It doesn’t move one bit
Thanks for all the Ranger Raptor content you've been putting out.
I have a question regarding the factory amp.. I've read online that it's a 650w amp but I'm not quite sure. I'm looking for a stealth enclosure sub like the kicker hideaway but I'm looking at alternative companies with a 10" sub. If you were to guess, what's the safe max RMS wattage and peak wattage sub I should be shopping for if I want to only use the factory amp?
The factory amp will have a really hard time powering anything bigger than the stock sub in my opinion. If you get something like the kicker hideaway 10” that has a small amp in the enclosure itself you can just run power and a signal wire to it and have plenty of base. Some really efficient subs like an MB Quart may run off the factory amp but that 650 is peak power, it is probably closer to 150-175 RMS for the whole system
@@flaberdoopin From your video, are you pulling the signal wire from the factory amp? Did you need to purchase anything other than the hideaway sub?
I plan on getting the 10" and seeing how it goes. My days of using the big boy JL 12w6v2's are long gone.. The ranger's system is just missing some depth and hopefully one of HS10's will help. Rest of the speakers are good enough for me.
Thanks for the insight and content!
I didn’t take the signal that goes into the amp, it comes over a mini USB port that is integrated into the amp with other data, is just used the signal/power for the stock sub as high level inputs for the new powered subwoofer. I used the kicker 8” but I have talked to a few guys who said the 10” hideaway fits perfectly in there as well if you want a bit more bass… only hard part was running the power wire through the firewall but it was only hard cuz I was an idiot and using the wrong tools, with a hand full of zip ties, some electrical tape and a bit of spray lube, you can do it in 5-10 minutes! Good luck and please feel free to send me an email or message if you have questions. Email is flaberdoopin@gmail.com
Did you put that back on?
Haha, I forgot until I got the ‘check brake system’ warning! Thanks for checking, cheers
Did you have any issue with noise cancellation causing the sub to go crazy for no reason? And I'm surprised you have that sub enclosed like that in Australia we get the 6x9 version of the sub
No issues at all with the new sub, I is working perfectly. We have 6x9s in the front doors and 6.5s in the rear… the sub was smaller than either door speaker… crazy
Sort of a weird use case, but did you consider using one of the aux switches? "You guys ready for some bass? ... **Flip** BOOM 😂
I absolutely did consider it. 25 amp at 12 volts should be able to handle 300 watts but all of the aux switch wiring is outside the cab so would have to get thru the firewall one way or another. If the remote turn on didn’t work I was going to use an aux switch for the 12 power signal. Would be fun to be able to ‘engage bass mode’ (switch flip) haha
Could you please measure how deep the factory sub box is and measure the factory speaker depth? Thank you!
Sure thing. I’ll measure it tomorrow morning
@@flaberdoopin did you get a chance to measure?
Stock sub depth from back of flange to bottom of magnet is 2.5”… inner diameter of enclosure is 5” exactly… mounting holes are 6” apart, depth of enclosure is barely big enough to fit the 2.5” deep stock sub. A better speaker in this enclosure won’t do much unless you also add an amplifier, it isn’t getting all that much power
Thank you sir!
After doing this, do you think the 10 would have fit or are the dimensions too different? I was considering the 10 last week. My RR arrived in Atlanta (1.5 hours away) 12 days ago, and isn't scheduled to be delivered until the 25th...
I think you could make the 10 fit, it is only about an inch longer and almost the same length. you may have to cut a little bit of the back padding on the rear wall of the cab but that isn't a big deal. To be honest, the 8 is more than enough for the rest of the stereo... i have the gain down at only 2 out of 6 and it is already plenty loud and i listen to dubstep and other techno with lots of bass... but i'm also 42 and getting lamer and lamer every year so maybe a 10 would be better. I'll pull out my old Dr. Dre albums and play that on this and see if it reminds me of my old high school stereo setups with 2x12's in a ported box haha.
This is very interesting, and I’m really surprised at the factory fitted sub being woefully under par - you would think the audio boffins at Ford would’ve done some research into the best set up with BNO!!??
Yeah, if you don’t listen to music with a good bit of bass the stock 10 speaker system is great but I like to feel it a bit more than stock was giving me. This little powered 8 is perfect for my needs
My RR should be here next week so will line up some favourites to test out the sound system…. With that in mind, is BlueTooth audio better than audio over Carplay? My hopes are that some-one does a direct replacement for the sub… but I guess anything bigger needs its own power supply - hence your ‘patience testing’ install. :-0
I think the audio between Bluetooth and CarPlay are almost identical, I can not tell any difference. Now that I have done the install it wouldn’t be too hard to do again but it was super painful that first time with the wrong tools to get the wire thru the firewall
So I just picked up my Raptor today and checked the sub, which sounded a lot better then I was expecting… turns out it’s a completely different sub to the one you have - happy to drop you a pic.
Just got a 21' ranger with the "upgraded sound". I'm an audiophile and can tell you my 2005 Xterra has a better sound system. Looking forward to making this upgrade soon.
I am with you. This ‘premium’ sound leaves a bit to be desired but it is a pretty easy fix. Cheers
Do you have the mix and match wiring that you did between the connector taken out from the oem subwoofer and the aftermarket one ?
I will look at it and report back. It was a while ago and I forgot what went where off the top of my head
Question: You install the 8" box, Would the 10" version fit. Looks to be just a touch bigger.
Yes, have had confirmation from quite a few people that the 10 fits perfectly!
Can you / Did you get actual measurements on the B&O subwoofer size? thought it'd be a 6 1/2 of 6/3/4 given you comments. Any measurements on the OEM box or speaker mounting depth?
I will take measurements when I get home today but the speaker is smaller than a 6” for sure.
@@flaberdoopin any luck ?
It looks like a 5 1/2” after measuring different parts of it. Diameter of the speaker cone itself is smaller than 4.5 inches… outer diameter of speaker hole is about 5.5 and it is observable by the naked eye that it is smaller than the 6.5” in the rear doors.
@@flaberdoopin I see that you keep using the old speaker as a parts magnet (smart). Is there a part number on the speaker itself (not sub enclosure) to get exact measurements for drop-in replacement?
@@AgntCpr i dont have a part number for the sub but i measured the enclosure and the diameter of the cutout for the speaker is exactly 5 inches and the diameter from screw hole to screw hole directly across from each other is exactly 6 inches. hope that helps. I have never tried to order an aftermarket sub that small... not sure who makes them and if you are looking for direct replacement, you would need dual voice coil that can run on relatively low power
Is there enough room back there to fit Kickers 10” sub instead of the 8” version vertically?
The 10 will fit, I have heard from quite a few people who have already installed it and they said it fits really well
My raptor on the way! Thank you. Do you think the Kicker 10” will fit????😮
I do think it would fit based on measuring the area and reading the specs on the 10” hideaway.
@@flaberdoopin thank you buddy!
getting the 10in installed next week.
Awesome. You will be glad you did
Does the 10in fit in there no problem? I believe it is really close in size to the 8in so was debating between the two.
@@kielherman3237yeah, the 10 fits perfectly as well
@@flaberdoopindid you take some pics of the installation?
I really liked the tutorial of your videos if it brings a better sound it's great what I regret is that you put everything in fast speed we didn't really see the connections and corrections that you made on the wiring
yeah, sorry about that. i didn't want to lose 99% of the people watching by makig it an hour plus. I would be happy to make a detailed video about the wiring in a week or two and post that. I am upgrading the door speakers this weekend too so i'll just wrap it all into one "stereo upgrade" video
@@flaberdoopin ok great put in your raptor were you equipped with the BO system? which works quite well? why do you prefer to modify everything?
It does have the B&O, but it was just a bit underwhelming for what I was looking for. I have always upgraded car audio and I enjoy doing it and love really loud music.
@@flaberdoopin I understand in this case on a common point I agree could you make a video of the sound before and after and I would be very interested to see what type of speaker you are going to use I will try to do the same thank you
I’m working on the video/install today and tomorrow and I just got the ‘before’ videos of the current sound system
Does the kicker still allow you to adjust bass levels etc from the screen? Does it fully integrate ?
Yes, you can still increase and decrease bass level from the tablet as required. I have the gain set to about 40-45% and do all adjustments in the settings on the screen
@@flaberdoopin Thanks, appreciate the video too. Did you ever do a follow-up video showing/explaining the wiring of the kicker to the Ford original wiring?
@@arigold2654 i haven’t but you aren’t the first person to ask so i think i will do that this weekend and post it. Thanks for the reminder
@@flaberdoopin Can't wait to watch it, that's the missing part of the puzzle !
@@flaberdoopin Hi - did you make the wiring video?
That thing hardly is a subwoofer.. guess it's better than nothing though. Although, I like to listen to the engine sounds anyway.
I agree. When I am on the twisty roads where I’m on and off the throttle, the radio is usually off but when cruising for a long time I like some tunes.
@@flaberdoopin good point. Sad Ford didn't do a better job in that department but did a great job on everything else it seems.
What did you end up doing to secure the sub behind the seat ?
I was able to get the jack stand back in (at a bit of an angle) and that is holding the bottom of the amp extremely securely and the top is held by the seat when it is up. It isn’t moving at all so I don’t really have any plans to do more than that.
Does the mirror vibrate/move with this Kicker upgrade?
No, not with the music i listen to. I think if i turned it way up it might but then it doesn't sound all that good and you hear stuff rattling more than you hear the bass. Generally you need a 12 or 2X10's with a ported enclosure for that kind of bass from what i have experienced. This 10 just provides some nice tight bass. I also have the gain down below 1/3 of what it is capable of.
What kind music h listen to mostly.whats ur favorite artists ect
90% of the time, i am listening to an audio book on my way to and from school but i will be graduating in 2 months and then i'll go back to listening to dubstep and other electronic music... i also like to listen to crazy pirate / sea shanty music like 'The Dreadnoughts', Nathan Evans and anything else that pops up like that on pandora.
I kicker sub was $300?
It was about 170 I think
With enclosure and built in amp.
These videos are awesome!! Keep up the great information. Definitely going to do this when I get mine hopefully this month.(EDIT: Just watched the whole thing and too involved for me lol. Wish there was a plug-n-play solution). Any chance you can take apart the rear view mirror assembly for the potential for a mirror tap and radar detector?
I am putting together a how to video for this subwoofer install... it isn't as bad as i made it out to be in this video... after you see that one make a decision on if you want to give it a try or not. I dont want to take the rear view mirror apart at the moment because the current plastic piece on there is missing a clip and the dealership is ordering me a new one... when i get that i'll just tell them that i will be installing it myself and i can get the video of that then.
I care for you
Cheers
@@flaberdoopin u make me happy
If you like good high quality sound, you’ll never get it from any stock sound system, with just a subwoofer it still sound like garbage.
I ended up adding a small 4 channel amp and DSP along with some new speakers as well.
@@flaberdoopin that’s the ticket.
I’m boutta drive back home and same as last time switch with girlfriend
Right on, hope the trip was awesome!
@@flaberdoopin It was so fun they even closed the street in every corner on Friday that pissed me off
that's crazy... glad it was a good trip
@@flaberdoopin just got home it was cool but yeah there goes my gas again
bass test RUclips, try that.
Awesome... i'll check that out... thanks for the recommendation!
Still forking out the dough on the compact 🤣 🤦♂️
Better than a poor man’s base model full size
reclip the clip
Haha, thanks! I honestly can’t believe I forgot to do that before I closed the hood at the end and when I got the ‘check brake’ warning I thought I fried some electrical components, took me like 15 min to remember I disconnected the brake fluid level sensor! Cheers
@@flaberdoopin im looking to throw a sub into my 2024 f150
They make a 10” version as well, might be better for the larger space
😂😂😂😂
🛵🌭🌊🤫🧏🤮
Man that is a lot of work just to replace the sub… definitely not a ‘must do’ mod…
If you want the stereo to be well rounded it is totally worth it, but you have a point, a lot of people aren’t as concerned about the audio system as I am. Maybe I am exaggerating the importance a little but it makes such a huge difference and it seems to fit in that spot REALLY well.