@@flaberdoopin never know.. might end up with a ranger raptor in the future we will see. Question, you have kids I believe you said. Will you or have you put a car seat in the back to see how much room there is with it?
Not sure when or if I will get one of these trucks, but thank you for this. This looks like an awesome and very necessary upgrade. Good work by the way.
I hope you are able to get one of these! and i am so glad i didn't wait to put this subwoofer in here... as soon as i took the stock out out and looked at it i knew it was the right move!
You got bigger balls than me duuude! I used to dive right in on that sh_t. If I heard something wizzz while I was doin' electrical on my Magnuson supercharged 4Runner, I be afraid my tune would disappear. LOL!!! Still waitin' to hear more on my RR order. Maybe next year. HAH!
How do you like the power on the supercharged 4Runner? That sounds amazing. I can’t believe the 2025 4Runner is going to be a 4 banger. And the noises under the hood were super scary haha
@@flaberdoopin I had an earlier Gen 5 'Runner and the power difference is substantial and the milage is the same. I also had a '10 Raptor 6.2 SCAB but stupidly traded it for a '15 Mustang GT with the Performance Pac. Ther Raptor really held its value as it was a strait across trade. Guess Fords and especially Raptors are still in my blood. LOL!
I haven’t noticed them being speed sensing in that they don’t or do work any differently at a stop vs on the freeway but it has only rained 1 time since I got the truck and was able to use them. I’ll pay closer attention next time it rains
Have you noticed the bass roll off when you turn the volume up? The B&O system does this to the factory sub so it doesn't blow. With the new aftermarket sub, this feature is not needed and definitely undesirable. Love the channel, by the way. Keep up the great work and awesome content. -Fellow Shelter Green RR owner
i haven't noticed it cutting signal / power to the new sub at higher volume... that would be a bummer... i'll have to keep that in mind next time i have it blasting with the windows down. I love this truck and it's awesome to know there are other Shelter green owners out there tearing it up! Cheers.
@@flaberdoopin It does reduce bass as the volume increases, even with this sub. It can be mitigated somewhat with the remote bass knob, you turn it up when the B&O turns it down. Also, does your Kicker remote (blue) light turn off at all when you turn off the truck? I thought that's what the amp was supposed to do, sense the high level input signal, but mine does not shut off ever. May have to run the blue remote wire to ACC.
Great video! Fellow RR from Dubai! Glad you measured for the 10” and confirmed it would fit, any reason why you didn’t pull the trigger on the bigger sub? Subscribed now, what’s next?
Thanks for the comment and the follow! I didn’t want to go too big on the sub, just enough to get some tight bass to balance out the rest of the system. In a few years I may make a fiberglass enclosure for a JL Audio 12” but this one is doing pretty good for now. Next up is going to be some off road lights and the three little amber market lights then an overland setup over the bed.
@@flaberdoopin oh nice!! Couldn’t decide on the 3 or 4 amber fronts, please make a video would love to see them. We off-road regularly here in Dubai, I fitted a Hamer Warrior sport bar and fitted 4 AuxBeam’s on them wired to the aux switch. Plenty of light for night drives. Also put an under the tub Twin ARB compressor.
@@moefayedthat’s awesome. I’m getting some Auxbeam lights in the next week or two with the 8 gang switch. Should be awesome. I really want that ARB compressor but it isn’t available in USA yet
Unfortunately you would not be able to tie into the original amp for any of that… the power wire is relatively small and I wouldn’t trust it to run an additional 150 watts and the rest of the speakers in the system (it is a single amp for everything, it isn’t a dedicated amp for the sub) and the signal wires were actually a mini usb connector, not standard coax signal wires.
Just curious, the blue wire coming from the Kicker harness that you're not using, is the remote wire that would turn the amplifier on & off with the truck. Is the sub powering down when you turn the truck off?
Yes, that is the remote wire that would would usually run to the remote out power line on an aftermarket head unit. Since I am using hi level inputs from the factory sub, the amp is using that as the signal to power on. When the truck is shut off the blue power light will stay on for a few minutes while the capacitors discharge and it is sure it isn’t just a pause in the music. I was a little nervous the first time the light stayed on for 2-3 min after shutting down and locking the doors but it has been powering down properly ever since install. Hope that helps
You’ve bypassed the BMS by going directly to the battery. The system can’t evaluate the load of that amp when hooked up this way. Things are so different nowadays. Sure it will be fine , but the BMS won’t be too happy.
Interesting. Is there a workaround? Would it be better to use one of the 25 amp aux switches since that is wired through the Battery Management System?
Honestly, I haven’t hooked one up on a newer car. All my work was done back in the day the same way you did it. However, I watch a ford mechanic on RUclips (ford family here). His channel is fordmacoloco or something like that. He was a master ford tech and opened his own garage. I learned this from him. I will try and find the video for you. It made a lot of sense when he explains it.
Thanks for the info. I’ll do some research and see what I can find. It looks like as long as you ground to the frame or anywhere upstream of the sensor on the battery negative you should be good but I’m going to dig into it
I'm at 1200 miles right now... i'll do the first one at 5000. Not so sure that "break in" is really a thing anymore with these modern day engines with better metals.
@@flaberdoopin look up “ the motor oil geek” this guys the best when it comes to motor oils and engine wear. Well he analyzed the motor oil of his daughter’s brand new Toyota Corolla and found that there was break in on this engine over the course of about 750 miles I think.
@@flaberdoopin look up “the oil geek guy” on RUclips he’s really knowledgeable. Well he analyzed his daughters brand new Toyota and found that there was a bit of break in period over about 750 miles
wow, great to know. I'll get some new oil and a filter today or tomorrow and do the oil change on friday. Would you stick with motorcraft or do you think there is a better alternative to use?
@@flaberdoopinthere may be a better alternative I know that “engineering explained” YT guy has a video about engine oils for boosted engines and some of the certs that they must meet however I’m personally gonna use motor craft oils and filters because that’s what’s stated in the manual for warranty.
I did not run the remote wire because I ran high level input and switched the input to that instead of low level input. If you wanted to hook that high level up to one of your aux switches or to a fuse that is only on with aux power you could do that, but i have been doing well with the high level inputs so far
Interesting, I had 4 wires because it was dual voice coil but the process is still the same, that will act as the high level input and send the signal to power on
Love your videos! Stellar content as always. My Ranger Raptor order will hopefully make it to the dealer soon. Do you know if trail turn assist is available? I’ve seen it on international (Aussie) market versions. If so do you know where to access it?
I am not sure about the trail turn assist... i'll have to look into that and get back to you. Thanks for the comment... more stuff i can find out and report back! always a good thing
Did you have to reposition the jack, or move anything? I missed it if you did, also how did you secure it to the back wall? Trying to get the 10 myself
Yes, I did just shift it sideways a little bit. The 10 should fit but you may not be able to get the jack back in with the extra little big of depth of the 10” enclosure
Just doing a 3 month check-in to see if youve come across any issues with this set-up. My Lariat will be coming in this october and (as you said in your first video on this topic), the audio sounds amazing, but is definitely lacking. I have concerns though. Being a fird technician, I see a lot of aftermarket equipment interfering with factory electronics. Have you seen any issues? Any battery draw concerns? Also, the wires coming from the factory sub are an amplified signal, so have/did you see any issues with an amplified signal going into the self powered sub, only to be amplified again? Hopefully, you haven't had any issues because "tapping into" these new audio systems is just too much. All I wanna do is add a little bass, not a whole system overhaul. I dont forsee any issues with this since it's a self-contained, self powered unit. The only issue I see is a possible draw from the kicker amp. Would be nice if the power could be taken from a switched power source. But then you're getting into how much additional power is being drawn from the *very* sensitive facory body control module. Anyway, thanks for the video and any additional information you can provide!
Hey, thanks for the follow up. No issues whatsoever and i did take a 12 hour road trip where i had the windows down and the stereo blasting the whole time so it was put to the test. there have been no faults or electronics issues with the truck. The signal out of the factory sub is pretty much being left as an open circuit. the aftermarket powered sub isn't adding power to that signal, it is simply reading the signal across a massive amount of resistance and using that as the input for it's internal amplifier (at least that is how i understand it as a systems engineer). I do get what you are saying about the electronics in these vehicles being very sensitive but my setup has seen zero ill effects from the stereo modifications i have made. Hope this helps.
@@flaberdoopin I meant to ask in my original post. The factory amp reduces bass the more you crank up the volume to protect the speakers. Is the kicker affected by that, or does it still crank out the bass at higher volumes?
@@douglis6185 i haven't noticed any bass falling off but i also only have the gain on the sub down at like 4 out of 10. My guess is that it would actually drop off because it is pulling signal from the original sub power wires, so when it stops increasing power, the new kicker sub will take that as it's signal. these subs do come with a remote bass boost knob so if you turn the stereo up to 25-30 and notice that the sub isn't getting louder you can just crank it up with the secondary knob. I also ended up putting an amp in and replacing all of the regular door speakers and i set the gains so that i really never need to go over 20-22 on the volume so i dont think i am ever actually hitting the point where the sub signal would be reduced. sorry i dont have a better answer, hopefully this was a little bit helpful.
according to the compare feature on crutch field, the dimensions of the 46HS10 is 1/2 inch wider, 1/4 inch longer and 1/8th inch thicker than the 11HS8. when you look at the picture it looks accurate as well because the 10" speaker goes all the way to the edge of the enclosure while the 8" has a good gap to the edges. based on the way mine fits behind the seat and the room around it, I am very confident that the 46HS10 would fit without any issue.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Glad the install went well overall and your pleased with the quality 😁👍
thanks... it wasn't too bad and it makes a world of difference for that little part of me that wants to blast gangster rap every once in a while
@@flaberdoopin I totally understand. Local dealer has a black ranger raptor on the lot. I was getting my gen 1 raptor serviced. Have a great weekend!
@@blazing2557I love those 6.2 raptors!
@@flaberdoopin never know.. might end up with a ranger raptor in the future we will see. Question, you have kids I believe you said. Will you or have you put a car seat in the back to see how much room there is with it?
Great video, and love the Homestar addition at the end! Bassinating the Raptornator!
Haha, I’m glad I’m not the only homestar fan!
Can't wait to see more mods. Then I'll know what to do with my truck. 👍
Right on! Glad people are appreciating the videos. Cheers
Not sure when or if I will get one of these trucks, but thank you for this. This looks like an awesome and very necessary upgrade. Good work by the way.
I hope you are able to get one of these! and i am so glad i didn't wait to put this subwoofer in here... as soon as i took the stock out out and looked at it i knew it was the right move!
You got bigger balls than me duuude! I used to dive right in on that sh_t. If I heard something wizzz while I was doin' electrical on my Magnuson supercharged 4Runner, I be afraid my tune would disappear. LOL!!! Still waitin' to hear more on my RR order. Maybe next year. HAH!
How do you like the power on the supercharged 4Runner? That sounds amazing. I can’t believe the 2025 4Runner is going to be a 4 banger. And the noises under the hood were super scary haha
@@flaberdoopin I had an earlier Gen 5 'Runner and the power difference is substantial and the milage is the same. I also had a '10 Raptor 6.2 SCAB but stupidly traded it for a '15 Mustang GT with the Performance Pac. Ther Raptor really held its value as it was a strait across trade. Guess Fords and especially Raptors are still in my blood. LOL!
You had mentioned the wipers, any chance they are speed sensing also ? Had that on a GTI and at a stop light in down pour it was fantastic.
I haven’t noticed them being speed sensing in that they don’t or do work any differently at a stop vs on the freeway but it has only rained 1 time since I got the truck and was able to use them. I’ll pay closer attention next time it rains
Have you noticed the bass roll off when you turn the volume up? The B&O system does this to the factory sub so it doesn't blow. With the new aftermarket sub, this feature is not needed and definitely undesirable.
Love the channel, by the way. Keep up the great work and awesome content.
-Fellow Shelter Green RR owner
i haven't noticed it cutting signal / power to the new sub at higher volume... that would be a bummer... i'll have to keep that in mind next time i have it blasting with the windows down. I love this truck and it's awesome to know there are other Shelter green owners out there tearing it up! Cheers.
@@flaberdoopin It does reduce bass as the volume increases, even with this sub. It can be mitigated somewhat with the remote bass knob, you turn it up when the B&O turns it down. Also, does your Kicker remote (blue) light turn off at all when you turn off the truck? I thought that's what the amp was supposed to do, sense the high level input signal, but mine does not shut off ever. May have to run the blue remote wire to ACC.
Great video! Fellow RR from Dubai! Glad you measured for the 10” and confirmed it would fit, any reason why you didn’t pull the trigger on the bigger sub? Subscribed now, what’s next?
Thanks for the comment and the follow! I didn’t want to go too big on the sub, just enough to get some tight bass to balance out the rest of the system. In a few years I may make a fiberglass enclosure for a JL Audio 12” but this one is doing pretty good for now. Next up is going to be some off road lights and the three little amber market lights then an overland setup over the bed.
@@flaberdoopin oh nice!! Couldn’t decide on the 3 or 4 amber fronts, please make a video would love to see them. We off-road regularly here in Dubai, I fitted a Hamer Warrior sport bar and fitted 4 AuxBeam’s on them wired to the aux switch. Plenty of light for night drives. Also put an under the tub Twin ARB compressor.
@@moefayedthat’s awesome. I’m getting some Auxbeam lights in the next week or two with the 8 gang switch. Should be awesome. I really want that ARB compressor but it isn’t available in USA yet
@@flaberdoopin I hope you’re going to make videos for all! Super enjoyable to watch sir!
@@flaberdoopin oh, saw you hate the auto start/stop like I do, they make an eliminator for it now.
Can you disconnect the middle rear seatbelt? Or does it just hang like that with the seat back down
It hangs, I don’t see any quick disconnect unfortunately.
@@flaberdoopin that stinks. I was bummed no 60/40 but that belt is annoying like that.
The ending😂😂
haha, I'm glad someone appreciated it... I think it is too funny!
Could you use the power ground and remote from the original amp?
Unfortunately you would not be able to tie into the original amp for any of that… the power wire is relatively small and I wouldn’t trust it to run an additional 150 watts and the rest of the speakers in the system (it is a single amp for everything, it isn’t a dedicated amp for the sub) and the signal wires were actually a mini usb connector, not standard coax signal wires.
@@flaberdoopin Thanks for the reply. Are you using the remote wire? Again thanks for blazing the trail so we don’t have all the aggravation.
Just curious, the blue wire coming from the Kicker harness that you're not using, is the remote wire that would turn the amplifier on & off with the truck. Is the sub powering down when you turn the truck off?
Yes, that is the remote wire that would would usually run to the remote out power line on an aftermarket head unit. Since I am using hi level inputs from the factory sub, the amp is using that as the signal to power on. When the truck is shut off the blue power light will stay on for a few minutes while the capacitors discharge and it is sure it isn’t just a pause in the music. I was a little nervous the first time the light stayed on for 2-3 min after shutting down and locking the doors but it has been powering down properly ever since install. Hope that helps
@@flaberdoopin Cool, just curious. Appreciate the reply.
Thank you
You're welcome
You’ve bypassed the BMS by going directly to the battery. The system can’t evaluate the load of that amp when hooked up this way. Things are so different nowadays. Sure it will be fine , but the BMS won’t be too happy.
Interesting. Is there a workaround? Would it be better to use one of the 25 amp aux switches since that is wired through the Battery Management System?
Honestly, I haven’t hooked one up on a newer car. All my work was done back in the day the same way you did it. However, I watch a ford mechanic on RUclips (ford family here). His channel is fordmacoloco or something like that. He was a master ford tech and opened his own garage. I learned this from him. I will try and find the video for you. It made a lot of sense when he explains it.
Thanks for the info. I’ll do some research and see what I can find. It looks like as long as you ground to the frame or anywhere upstream of the sensor on the battery negative you should be good but I’m going to dig into it
Hope to see an oil change vid coming soon!
I'm at 1200 miles right now... i'll do the first one at 5000. Not so sure that "break in" is really a thing anymore with these modern day engines with better metals.
@@flaberdoopin look up “ the motor oil geek” this guys the best when it comes to motor oils and engine wear. Well he analyzed the motor oil of his daughter’s brand new Toyota Corolla and found that there was break in on this engine over the course of about 750 miles I think.
@@flaberdoopin look up “the oil geek guy” on RUclips he’s really knowledgeable. Well he analyzed his daughters brand new Toyota and found that there was a bit of break in period over about 750 miles
wow, great to know. I'll get some new oil and a filter today or tomorrow and do the oil change on friday. Would you stick with motorcraft or do you think there is a better alternative to use?
@@flaberdoopinthere may be a better alternative I know that “engineering explained” YT guy has a video about engine oils for boosted engines and some of the certs that they must meet however I’m personally gonna use motor craft oils and filters because that’s what’s stated in the manual for warranty.
where did you put the blue remote wire? or does that stay not connected because you aren't running the remote?
I did not run the remote wire because I ran high level input and switched the input to that instead of low level input. If you wanted to hook that high level up to one of your aux switches or to a fuse that is only on with aux power you could do that, but i have been doing well with the high level inputs so far
Yours is different to mine tbh.
I don't have the blur plug only 2 wires going to old sub.
Interesting, I had 4 wires because it was dual voice coil but the process is still the same, that will act as the high level input and send the signal to power on
Love your videos! Stellar content as always. My Ranger Raptor order will hopefully make it to the dealer soon. Do you know if trail turn assist is available? I’ve seen it on international (Aussie) market versions. If so do you know where to access it?
I am not sure about the trail turn assist... i'll have to look into that and get back to you. Thanks for the comment... more stuff i can find out and report back! always a good thing
Have you played any rock or metal music through the 8" kicker sub? If so how does it sound?
I have and it sounds really good. The reason I went with the 8” over the 10” was for tighter more responsive bass and it delivers
Do you hear the double bass drum response from the sub while playing rock or metal?
Sorry for the delay, I missed this response question and yes, it is tight enough to clearly year a double
@@flaberdoopin no worries thank you for replying
Did you have to reposition the jack, or move anything? I missed it if you did, also how did you secure it to the back wall? Trying to get the 10 myself
Yes, I did just shift it sideways a little bit. The 10 should fit but you may not be able to get the jack back in with the extra little big of depth of the 10” enclosure
Just doing a 3 month check-in to see if youve come across any issues with this set-up. My Lariat will be coming in this october and (as you said in your first video on this topic), the audio sounds amazing, but is definitely lacking. I have concerns though. Being a fird technician, I see a lot of aftermarket equipment interfering with factory electronics. Have you seen any issues? Any battery draw concerns?
Also, the wires coming from the factory sub are an amplified signal, so have/did you see any issues with an amplified signal going into the self powered sub, only to be amplified again?
Hopefully, you haven't had any issues because "tapping into" these new audio systems is just too much. All I wanna do is add a little bass, not a whole system overhaul.
I dont forsee any issues with this since it's a self-contained, self powered unit. The only issue I see is a possible draw from the kicker amp. Would be nice if the power could be taken from a switched power source. But then you're getting into how much additional power is being drawn from the *very* sensitive facory body control module. Anyway, thanks for the video and any additional information you can provide!
Hey, thanks for the follow up. No issues whatsoever and i did take a 12 hour road trip where i had the windows down and the stereo blasting the whole time so it was put to the test. there have been no faults or electronics issues with the truck. The signal out of the factory sub is pretty much being left as an open circuit. the aftermarket powered sub isn't adding power to that signal, it is simply reading the signal across a massive amount of resistance and using that as the input for it's internal amplifier (at least that is how i understand it as a systems engineer). I do get what you are saying about the electronics in these vehicles being very sensitive but my setup has seen zero ill effects from the stereo modifications i have made. Hope this helps.
@@flaberdoopin I meant to ask in my original post. The factory amp reduces bass the more you crank up the volume to protect the speakers. Is the kicker affected by that, or does it still crank out the bass at higher volumes?
@@douglis6185 i haven't noticed any bass falling off but i also only have the gain on the sub down at like 4 out of 10. My guess is that it would actually drop off because it is pulling signal from the original sub power wires, so when it stops increasing power, the new kicker sub will take that as it's signal. these subs do come with a remote bass boost knob so if you turn the stereo up to 25-30 and notice that the sub isn't getting louder you can just crank it up with the secondary knob. I also ended up putting an amp in and replacing all of the regular door speakers and i set the gains so that i really never need to go over 20-22 on the volume so i dont think i am ever actually hitting the point where the sub signal would be reduced. sorry i dont have a better answer, hopefully this was a little bit helpful.
Can you measure the insert for your sub? I know you mentioned something about the 10 inch sub.
Yes… I’ll get out there in a few min to measure and look up the specs for the 10” kit and see if it would fit!
according to the compare feature on crutch field, the dimensions of the 46HS10 is 1/2 inch wider, 1/4 inch longer and 1/8th inch thicker than the 11HS8. when you look at the picture it looks accurate as well because the 10" speaker goes all the way to the edge of the enclosure while the 8" has a good gap to the edges. based on the way mine fits behind the seat and the room around it, I am very confident that the 46HS10 would fit without any issue.
Awesome thanks for checking that!
Where did you get that zippo butane insert?
I’m in Canada and should get my Ranger Raptor very soon!
Did you fuse the wire from the battery?
i like everything original my indian music hit great too
Right on… if it is the way you like it the way it is, that’s even better. The only Indian music I have heard is ‘tuna tuna tun’ hahaha
@@flaberdoopin Oh yeah haha