Been wanting to fit a match barrel for over decades. After watching and studying your videos, I finally decided to buy my tools from Brownells and Midway. Got my Kart barrel and will start this project over the winter. Really appreciate showing us folks how it's done. Reading Kuhnhausen just wasn't enough to help me really understand how to do this. Your video gave me the clarity I needed to proceed. Thx so much for such a precious contribution!
Thanks for teaching me I have a lot to learn about the 1911, but You are teaching quite a bit! Nice work and you are showing me quite a bit about how everything fits together in a whole new way!
I love your videos, man. Truly impressed with the care and precision you put into your work. Your videos are what got me to take the leap into building 1911's from unfinished 80% frames. Will be starting my 3rd build shortly and your videos are a tremendous help when I run into the plethora of issues common to the 1911-building process. Keep em coming! Btw, the frames from Vytamin C, like the one seen in this video, are top notch, and knowing what I've learned from my builds thus far, they are the best frames available for the money and are the only [steel] frames I will buy anymore.
I really enjoy your videos, you are a master of your craft. Thank you for sharing your work. If you have any books you recommend I would enjoy reading them.
И тем не менее, я надеюсь, против того, что вы - кладезь талантов, вы возражать не будете? )))))))))))))))) Кстати, я всё ещё не теряю надежды дождаться от вас видео на русском...
К.В. П. да нет уж. Просто люблю руками работать. И тут я как бы нашел себя. Жена моя тоже настаивает чтобы я скачал все видео и наложил русский перевод.
You used a gunsmith-fit thumb safety as a reference to cut the lower lug of the barrel. This is something Ed Brown had cautioned amateur gunsmiths (and probably professionals) about.
-Suburban- I think I understand why that may be, but would like to know more. If the remaining thickness of the bottom lug feet is in qiestion, that is why I keep checking the condition of the cut on an ongoing basis, to make sure that I have actually reached the feet. I understand that in some cases you could end up with over cut feet, or undercut feet. So far I have only seen cases where I don't get to the feet and the thumb safety engages. haven't seen one yet where the thumb safety is "Too Long".
You've only cut the hood length so that the AFT (hood) barrel lug engages precisely with the slide aft lug (@9:10) ... once the barrel drops into battery, how do you ensure that the other two (middle and forward) lugs also make full contact/engagement? It looks like this method of fitting only ensures one lug of engagement. Wouldn't you want to file the radial lug spacing on the barrel lugs to match the (measured) radial lug spacing on the barrel, and THEN cut the hood? That way you know when the lugs wear in during initial break in, you're going to be getting contact on two lugs.
True. This is a more traditional method of fitting the barrel to the slide, where you focus in on the rear lug fitting precisely. And yes, you can do the extra work to try and make sure the other lugs are precisely fitted to "carry" some of the load, prolonging wear, rather than stepping in when the rear lug takes a beating. All kind of depends on specs of the slide and barrel. If you want to go to that level of custom fit, you may have to start with a bare barrel and cut in the locking lugs precisely to match the slide grooves.
Hello, at 26 minutes into the video when you put the barrel in with the link and and slide stop it looked like the barrel was stopping just short of full battery and then clicked the last 1/8 of an inch or so. What did you have to do to smooth that out? Take material off at the lower lug? Or was it binding at the barrel hood, or barrel bushing location? Great tutorials and has helped a ton with my first build. Any info would be much appreciated.
By the time you start working on the bottom lug the barrel has to be fitted to the slide completely. Only after that it is all about the bottom lug and only after the bottom lug is fitted it becomes all about the link. If you are riding the slide slowly forward, it should pause before going into battery as the bottom lug rides onto the slide stop pin. And the slide will only pause when you ride it forward. If you rack it correctly it will slam home without any hesitation. I will have to watch the video to see exactly what I was doing...
I have a slightly different situation than you are describing. My handgun is a 1911 Builders 45ACP that came with the barrel lug already cut. The thumb safety already fits the slide. What I do have is a slight mis-match between the slide and the frame. The slide is not flush with the frame but would need to go forward about 1mm. Is this a concern?
You should confirm that the bottom lug feet actually contact the rear of the Slide Stop pin when the slide is in battery and that the gun functions (disconnector head is under the disconnector slot in the slide). If that is happening, the slide overhang is usually dressed down (blended) to be in line with the frame. It is pretty normal to end up with that overhang.
David Dahl I have started using gauge pins, and got some more tools and stones. For the most part it is all the same. I broke a couple of v files so I replaced those.
Excellent explanation, as usual. I was curious, what hardnesses would you say there are for the barrel, slide and frame. Ballpark figures based on feedback from the file. I am curious to see what levels they are at so as to get an idea of peening that would occur over time to loosen the lockup. Regards.
I would say the slide is the softest, but that could also be because I use larger files when working on the slide. I don't have a tester to let you know for sure. There should be no peening if everything is fitted correctly from what I understand, especially on locking lugs. If there is rounding, I believe it means that you have a mis-timed pistol. And when slide stop wears down, I would just replace the slide stop to get that fresh .200" pin into the gun
I wasn't counting. If I didn't have anything else to do and could spend about 8 hours each day on this project, I think I would have done it in 1 week.
scott 1911man Yes, the pin set has 190 pins, they are "minus" pins, and the range is .061" to .250" on .001" increments. I can't remember where I got mine, but here is an identical one on Amazon. www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UCQO4HM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487043990&sr=1-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&dpPl=1&dpID=51TMF94arTL&ref=plSrch
MV, I have a fusion government carbon clide with a 45ACP match barrel. The slide and barrel are supposed to be fitted together, but the hood is .007" away from the breech face in lockup. The hood width is .007" more narrow than the opening in the slide. Is this going to affect accuracy? Do I need to send this slide and barrel back to Fusion?
Sounds like GI spec. You want minimal clearance at hood to breech face. Side to side is less relevant since the barrel should be locking up into the locking lugs and not be able to move side to side.
My lock up seems good.. and when the slide is allthe way forward seems like there is almost an 1/8ich hanging off the back of the frame.. ed brown rmr slide and ed brown semi drop in barrel? I'm lost 😕
How does your thumb safety align with the notch in the slide? If it aligns and you have good contact of the barrel bottom lug feet to the slide stop, then the slide overhang is something that can be corrected by removing material off the back of the slide.
@@MosinVirus doesn't align at all slide is to far back.. i wish i could send a picture.. it's my first full build.. I've watched all your video's and some other's before all my parts got here..
@@codyrobertson9672 if the thumb safety notch doesn't align that means the barrel bottom lug feet need to be cut more to allow the barrel to move forward.
@@KrustyLS the next step is to cut with a .198 cutter. Simply put, your slide stop pin is .200 diameter and the .195 diameter cutter will not produce a cut that will engage with .200 diameter pin. After that, you will have to select a correct link. Then use the link to show you where material needs to be removed as the link swings away from bottom feet.
@@montgomerymassotherapy6146 that is strange. I would have expected the barrel link to give out first. Could be a defective pin maybe. Was the pin loose in the barrel bottom lug? Any way it could have walked out a bit? Any marks on the bottom lug channel in the frame?
That is not good. You can stake the pin in. Here is an instruction image: s129.photobucket.com/user/niemi24s/media/P08B280002b.jpg.html you can use a sharp center punch to do that. Striking the lug near the edge of the hole will expand a little material (like a little lip) into the hole and prevent the link pin from walking out. Same process can be used on loose Hammer Strut pins. Here is a perfect example of staking those pins: forums.1911forum.com/showpost.php?p=5253259&postcount=321
Hey I've built my 80% slides good but it when I put the completed slide on it will only go about 1/4 inch before it's locked up any ideas ? I used a sa phantom jig btw
chris lambert not sure what you mean. Do you mean that the slide goes onto the frame and all the way back when it is just the slide, but doesn't when the barrel is in the slide?
Yes slide goes on without issues will go through full range of motion . When I put the guts in the slide and put it on the frame is when it won't move back more then 1/4 inch I tried the slide on my Springfield frame and though a little tight , it functions
It could mean that the lug is riding up on the slide stop, or it could mean that the link is too long and the barrel could be riding the link as the slide goes into battery.
Oh, yeah, I constantly have issues playing on Note 3 as well. It is a RUclips app problem. What i do when I get a constant loading spinner is press the home button at the bottom of the phone screen, go to my app process killer, kill RUclips process. Then open RUclips again. And it works. I am guessing that it happens because youtube doesn't close properly when you back out of the app.
He must be one of them democrat gun owners. I put my 1911 together with the tools that were on my BassCat hahahaha I used a chainsaw sharpener for my lug cutter. They sure are fancy in France
@@MosinVirus I used to work at Nor Cal metal fabricators in West Oakland CA the shop was 120,000 square feet with about just every tool and machine you could think of. 1946-2019. The Guy that ended being the boss ran it into the ground not because we didn't have business he cut back on everything from salesman to toilet paper just for his xmass bonus. But what I did was program about 28 of the worlds most popular hand guns on to a DXF file and could have the laser and the mill both CNC all the parts excluding recoil springs and grips in a about 4 hours per pistol. Man I miss that place. I was just razzin ya about the french democrat thing.
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
That's why a hand fitted gun costs thousands of dollars. The investment on tools alone is incredible. Thanks. I learn a lot with your videos.
Joel Lopez thank you. Yes, it certainly isn't cheap. Lol
Been wanting to fit a match barrel for over decades. After watching and studying your videos, I finally decided to buy my tools from Brownells and Midway. Got my Kart barrel and will start this project over the winter. Really appreciate showing us folks how it's done. Reading Kuhnhausen just wasn't enough to help me really understand how to do this. Your video gave me the clarity I needed to proceed. Thx so much for such a precious contribution!
It is my pleasure.
just wanted to say thanks. I'm about 70% finished with my own build. your videos inspired me to do it so...thank you.
My pleasure. Glad my videos help.
Thanks for teaching me I have a lot to learn about the 1911, but You are teaching quite a bit! Nice work and you are showing me quite a bit about how everything fits together in a whole new way!
Mark Zanghetti Glad I can help. I like sharing information and what I learn so that others can give it a shot themselves.
I love your videos, man. Truly impressed with the care and precision you put into your work. Your videos are what got me to take the leap into building 1911's from unfinished 80% frames. Will be starting my 3rd build shortly and your videos are a tremendous help when I run into the plethora of issues common to the 1911-building process. Keep em coming!
Btw, the frames from Vytamin C, like the one seen in this video, are top notch, and knowing what I've learned from my builds thus far, they are the best frames available for the money and are the only [steel] frames I will buy anymore.
Finally, the barrel fitting video I need.
roady42 let me know if you have any questions.
Really enjoy watching your build videos, learning a lot and hope to build one or more my self one day.
Thank you. It is a very addictive process. You start building one, then you get ideas and you have to build another. And then another...
Another excelent job!!! Congrats!!! Greeting from Brazil.
Osvaldo Pontes thank you very much
Learn a lot from your videos, they're great..many thanks!
Thank you for watching. Glad you like these.
I really enjoy your videos, you are a master of your craft. Thank you for sharing your work. If you have any books you recommend I would enjoy reading them.
Thank you. Specifically regarding 1911s, Jerry Kuhnhausen shop manuals vol 1 and 2 are great.
Very nice, cant wait for the next vid*****
scott 1911man thank you. I have some footage to edit together. coming soon.
good video love all the work wow ,,
Thank you.
Приветствую, Игорь.
Как всегда интересно и познавательно. Вы, к тому же, ещё и испанским владеете? Ну, прямо, кладезь талантов...)))))))))))
К.В. П. Если бы. Нет, это заслуга Google. Их переводчик работает очень даже неплохо.
И тем не менее, я надеюсь, против того, что вы - кладезь талантов, вы возражать не будете? ))))))))))))))))
Кстати, я всё ещё не теряю надежды дождаться от вас видео на русском...
К.В. П. да нет уж. Просто люблю руками работать. И тут я как бы нашел себя. Жена моя тоже настаивает чтобы я скачал все видео и наложил русский перевод.
Вооооооот! Прошу передать от меня вашей супруге большую признательность за это. И продолжаю надеяться, что это когда-нибудь всё-таки произойдёт... :-)
cant wait to start on my 1911 build, going to be a basic commander 1911 but its a start lol
Always start with basics. I did too. Good luck
You used a gunsmith-fit thumb safety as a reference to cut the lower lug of the barrel. This is something Ed Brown had cautioned amateur gunsmiths (and probably professionals) about.
-Suburban- Hmm, I am not aware of that. Do you remember what the reason was?
-Suburban- I think I understand why that may be, but would like to know more. If the remaining thickness of the bottom lug feet is in qiestion, that is why I keep checking the condition of the cut on an ongoing basis, to make sure that I have actually reached the feet. I understand that in some cases you could end up with over cut feet, or undercut feet. So far I have only seen cases where I don't get to the feet and the thumb safety engages. haven't seen one yet where the thumb safety is "Too Long".
Sounds like he cuts the barrel to blueprint specifications. I found the page. - forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=10848
-Suburban- thank you. Very interesting reading.
Thank you for the info :)
scott 1911man my pleasure.
nice friend
Alondra Reyes thank you.
You've only cut the hood length so that the AFT (hood) barrel lug engages precisely with the slide aft lug (@9:10) ... once the barrel drops into battery, how do you ensure that the other two (middle and forward) lugs also make full contact/engagement? It looks like this method of fitting only ensures one lug of engagement. Wouldn't you want to file the radial lug spacing on the barrel lugs to match the (measured) radial lug spacing on the barrel, and THEN cut the hood? That way you know when the lugs wear in during initial break in, you're going to be getting contact on two lugs.
True. This is a more traditional method of fitting the barrel to the slide, where you focus in on the rear lug fitting precisely. And yes, you can do the extra work to try and make sure the other lugs are precisely fitted to "carry" some of the load, prolonging wear, rather than stepping in when the rear lug takes a beating. All kind of depends on specs of the slide and barrel. If you want to go to that level of custom fit, you may have to start with a bare barrel and cut in the locking lugs precisely to match the slide grooves.
saludos desde México
mario alberto torres vital Gracias. Saludos desde Estados Unidos
Hello, at 26 minutes into the video when you put the barrel in with the link and and slide stop it looked like the barrel was stopping just short of full battery and then clicked the last 1/8 of an inch or so. What did you have to do to smooth that out? Take material off at the lower lug? Or was it binding at the barrel hood, or barrel bushing location?
Great tutorials and has helped a ton with my first build.
Any info would be much appreciated.
By the time you start working on the bottom lug the barrel has to be fitted to the slide completely. Only after that it is all about the bottom lug and only after the bottom lug is fitted it becomes all about the link.
If you are riding the slide slowly forward, it should pause before going into battery as the bottom lug rides onto the slide stop pin. And the slide will only pause when you ride it forward. If you rack it correctly it will slam home without any hesitation. I will have to watch the video to see exactly what I was doing...
Yes, my earlier reply was still good. It is just a properly tight fit.
I have a slightly different situation than you are describing. My handgun is a 1911 Builders 45ACP that came with the barrel lug already cut. The thumb safety already fits the slide. What I do have is a slight mis-match between the slide and the frame. The slide is not flush with the frame but would need to go forward about 1mm. Is this a concern?
You should confirm that the bottom lug feet actually contact the rear of the Slide Stop pin when the slide is in battery and that the gun functions (disconnector head is under the disconnector slot in the slide). If that is happening, the slide overhang is usually dressed down (blended) to be in line with the frame. It is pretty normal to end up with that overhang.
nice
Taurus/Hipoint Enthusiast thank you.
Very good information. I know you've done a video on the tools you use. Have you changed any of the tools, or the way you do this since that video?
David Dahl I have started using gauge pins, and got some more tools and stones. For the most part it is all the same. I broke a couple of v files so I replaced those.
MosinVirus thanks for the reply, and al the information.
Excellent explanation, as usual. I was curious, what hardnesses would you say there are for the barrel, slide and frame. Ballpark figures based on feedback from the file. I am curious to see what levels they are at so as to get an idea of peening that would occur over time to loosen the lockup. Regards.
I would say the slide is the softest, but that could also be because I use larger files when working on the slide. I don't have a tester to let you know for sure. There should be no peening if everything is fitted correctly from what I understand, especially on locking lugs. If there is rounding, I believe it means that you have a mis-timed pistol. And when slide stop wears down, I would just replace the slide stop to get that fresh .200" pin into the gun
That looks Iike a great build!
I'm curios as to who does your engraving? I'm assuming you piece that out?
Yes, this was done by a local laser engraver. P&L Machine shop to be exact.
awesome video ..
how many hours did it take you to finish this project?
I wasn't counting. If I didn't have anything else to do and could spend about 8 hours each day on this project, I think I would have done it in 1 week.
I meant to ask you where did you get that pin set I saw you use in another vid & I assume the pin in the lug hole came from that set?? Thanks
scott 1911man Yes, the pin set has 190 pins, they are "minus" pins, and the range is .061" to .250" on .001" increments. I can't remember where I got mine, but here is an identical one on Amazon. www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UCQO4HM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487043990&sr=1-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&dpPl=1&dpID=51TMF94arTL&ref=plSrch
MV, I have a fusion government carbon clide with a 45ACP match barrel. The slide and barrel are supposed to be fitted together, but the hood is .007" away from the breech face in lockup. The hood width is .007" more narrow than the opening in the slide. Is this going to affect accuracy? Do I need to send this slide and barrel back to Fusion?
Sounds like GI spec. You want minimal clearance at hood to breech face. Side to side is less relevant since the barrel should be locking up into the locking lugs and not be able to move side to side.
My lock up seems good.. and when the slide is allthe way forward seems like there is almost an 1/8ich hanging off the back of the frame.. ed brown rmr slide and ed brown semi drop in barrel? I'm lost 😕
How does your thumb safety align with the notch in the slide? If it aligns and you have good contact of the barrel bottom lug feet to the slide stop, then the slide overhang is something that can be corrected by removing material off the back of the slide.
@@MosinVirus doesn't align at all slide is to far back.. i wish i could send a picture.. it's my first full build.. I've watched all your video's and some other's before all my parts got here..
@@codyrobertson9672 if the thumb safety notch doesn't align that means the barrel bottom lug feet need to be cut more to allow the barrel to move forward.
Can you explain the fitting process done off camera? I’ve used .195 cutter until thumb safety engages. A little confused about what the next step is.
@@KrustyLS the next step is to cut with a .198 cutter. Simply put, your slide stop pin is .200 diameter and the .195 diameter cutter will not produce a cut that will engage with .200 diameter pin.
After that, you will have to select a correct link. Then use the link to show you where material needs to be removed as the link swings away from bottom feet.
@@MosinVirus thank you, sir. These videos have been a great resource! Plans for any other builds in the near future?
@@KrustyLS they made it illegal to build in Cali.
@@MosinVirus oh didn’t realize that!
have you see a 1911 with no barrel link no locking logs
campos yes, without locking lugs, but not without barrel link.
Have you ever had a break link pin crack, after shooting
I have not, but that would mean that the barrel is not properly fitted to the frame and/or slide.
@@MosinVirus any suggestions on how to rectify the issue?
@@montgomerymassotherapy6146 did you fit the barrel to the frame yourself? What exactly cracked? Was it the barrel link or the barrel link pin?
@@MosinVirus yes I built it all my self . The barrel link pin cracked.
@@montgomerymassotherapy6146 that is strange. I would have expected the barrel link to give out first. Could be a defective pin maybe. Was the pin loose in the barrel bottom lug? Any way it could have walked out a bit? Any marks on the bottom lug channel in the frame?
so. I just found out my old 1980s springfield armory mil spec has a loose barrel like pin. its a pita to reassemble lol.
That is not good. You can stake the pin in. Here is an instruction image: s129.photobucket.com/user/niemi24s/media/P08B280002b.jpg.html
you can use a sharp center punch to do that. Striking the lug near the edge of the hole will expand a little material (like a little lip) into the hole and prevent the link pin from walking out. Same process can be used on loose Hammer Strut pins. Here is a perfect example of staking those pins: forums.1911forum.com/showpost.php?p=5253259&postcount=321
MosinVirus thank you so much for the info. I really appreciate it,
Marine052191 my pleasure.
Hey I've built my 80% slides good but it when I put the completed slide on it will only go about 1/4 inch before it's locked up any ideas ? I used a sa phantom jig btw
chris lambert not sure what you mean. Do you mean that the slide goes onto the frame and all the way back when it is just the slide, but doesn't when the barrel is in the slide?
Yes slide goes on without issues will go through full range of motion . When I put the guts in the slide and put it on the frame is when it won't move back more then 1/4 inch I tried the slide on my Springfield frame and though a little tight , it functions
chris lambert so the slide can't move back out of lockup? the issue is likely the bottom lug / link.
MosinVirus yes that's what it's doing
How would I address this ? I appreciate your advice as I have upmost respect for your skill thank you very much
Mosin, at 26:18, as the barrel and slide "click" fully into battery, my build is very tight. Is this due to the ledge on the lug..?
It could mean that the lug is riding up on the slide stop, or it could mean that the link is too long and the barrel could be riding the link as the slide goes into battery.
MosinVirus, Thank you Sir. I'll strip it and look for "rubbing" then clean and polish the wearing points. I appreciate it very much.
Bro can u help. Me... How can i contact you bro.. Tnx
You can write to me here or on instagram.
for some reason I can't get this video to play?
It is playing for me, and judging from comments it is playing for others. What device are you trying to play it on?
Samsung cell phone. I'll give it another try..
now it playing.. thank you for following up!!
Oh, yeah, I constantly have issues playing on Note 3 as well. It is a RUclips app problem. What i do when I get a constant loading spinner is press the home button at the bottom of the phone screen, go to my app process killer, kill RUclips process. Then open RUclips again. And it works. I am guessing that it happens because youtube doesn't close properly when you back out of the app.
He must be one of them democrat gun owners. I put my 1911 together with the tools that were on my BassCat hahahaha I used a chainsaw sharpener for my lug cutter. They sure are fancy in France
Definitely not Democrat. But I would love to see your builds also shared. The more the merrier
@@MosinVirus I used to work at Nor Cal metal fabricators in West Oakland CA the shop was 120,000 square feet with about just every tool and machine you could think of. 1946-2019. The Guy that ended being the boss ran it into the ground not because we didn't have business he cut back on everything from salesman to toilet paper just for his xmass bonus. But what I did was program about 28 of the worlds most popular hand guns on to a DXF file and could have the laser and the mill both CNC all the parts excluding recoil springs and grips in a about 4 hours per pistol. Man I miss that place. I was just razzin ya about the french democrat thing.
@@skippyboy88 Nice. You should check out my Beretta 92 Vertec conversion. I think you may enjoy it. Hand tools for the win.