This short series basically allowed me to get my minor in photography! I am revisiting this now a few years later because I want to get back into it. I used this specific two step process you presented for 75% of my black and white film photography- the other 25% would be other developer/ fix combos- and the rare times I use XP2.
I’m going back to film after a 20 year hiatus and this has been super helpful. I already have the reels and tanks and I am glad I didn’t threw them away. I only plan to shoot and develop film, scan them into my computer, and print digitally. I didn’t know about TF4 before and this is something that I would like to try. It’d be great if I could do without stop bath and hypo cleaning agent. Many many thanks.
Gotta love minimalism! Great advice, on riding the purple casts from tmax and avoiding stop bath at the same time. =) Also useful note about the metal reels, I'm just sticking with the Patterson plastic for now - it works!
Great video, Ted. I'm just about to get starting with processing my own film, so the timing of this is perfect. Since I don't have the luxury of any sort of dedicated darkroom space, it's great to get your tips and tricks on how to make it work as minimally as possible. Eagerly awaiting the second part of this one.
I absolutely LOVE film. I'm thirteen, and with such little money and resources available to me I'm torn between film and digital. I would like to set up a darkroom, but with the rise in cost for film and development I find myself leaning towards digital. I am quite scared that film will be gone when I have the money to shoot it, but digital is more economically friendly at the moment. I honestly wish that film was more widespread, but digital has taken over. Film looks exactly how you want it to look, and you just can't do that with digital.
Film is slowly coming back, just like records. It's more popular now than it was 5 years ago. One of the keys to shooting film is that you need to think and compose more in your head. You can't just shoot a lot and sort it out later, like with digital. You CAN make digital just like you want, it just takes some fiddling.
5 years passed from the post and I Wonder if the film photography stills grabs his attention. I started my photography "carrier" at around 10 then when I getting to my 15 I switched to girls almost completely from photography ☺️. Then only after I had my own kids I returned to it. Now I'm thinking going with black and white film photography to develop the films myself.
I just love how you're using the metric system and SI measures. Word of advice for those who want to source the necessary things at low budget: if you're buying a used dev tank, do make sure it comes with all the necessary parts and is indeed intended for manual developing. I made the mistake of buying a JOBO tank with the "sprocket top" and no axis tube nor reel. I thought I was saving money because I got it really cheap but getting the additional parts was a nightmare and ended costing much.
I was just looking into Jobo! Thanks! In the US photography has been mostly metric for at least 60 years. Before WW2 it was grains and ounces but that shifted and by the 1960's no one used those old measures anymore. We still use inches for medium and large format films and papers but that's all I can think of.
Great video as always! I think many people are interested in film photography and showing them that they can do it with a minimalist equipment is a great idea. My 'minimalist' setup was a bottle of Rodinal, a bottle of fixer and a used tank that I bought for basically nothing and these three things were enough to start out. Today I shoot film a lot and I have tried many different chemicals and processes and I enjoyed most of them however Rodinal remains to be my favorite for b&w negs.
After a quick dip in dishwasher spotting agent and squeegee, I hang using a film clip at the top, hanging from the ceiling fan chain in my kitchen, with a simple clothes pin for weight at the very bottom. It works like a charm with no curling.
I've got one - they're okay… really clumsy and for me its easier just to do 4x5 in the dark. I'll do it at night with the bathroom door closed. My biggest issue is the time they take to drain and fill - you have to compensate. But if it works fo you - go for it!
I use film clips and hang it in the shower. Should dry in about 45min to an hour. Get a weighted film clip on the bottom though so it won't curl up against the tile. I hang them on the shower door rod.
Can't wait for the one about making prints. I'm moving to a little place soon and I was losing the hope I could keep on developing and doing my own prints until I saw this :) thanks a lot, you're an awesome teacher!
Wonderful, been building up my supplies to get developing; I started photography in a darkroom and would love to revisit it. A great spot to get cheap supplies is people liquidating their old darkrooms on Craigslist. Cheers.
Ted, I'm not sure minimalist is a word I'd associate with your videos. That said, I'm starting to realise that they contain a lot of interesting information, and I keep coming back to them.
I can vouch for TF-5, it's a fantastic fixer! Just as odorless as TF-4, mixes cleaner, and doesn't have that "milky" precipitate that forms when the stock settles. Also, alkaline fixers are superior for films developed with pyrocat as it doesn't remove image stain.
awesome video Ted i've just started developing my own B/W medium and 35mm format film. I don't use a darkroom just a dark bag, but gonna eventually create one, when i move. keep up the videos
Once again a fantastic video. Well done Ted! If you want to further reduce the size of your kit and have a 3 reel Paterson Tank check out a handy little gadget called the MOD 54 that enables you to process 4x5 film in normal light without needing the dipping tanks. Once loaded you just process like you would a 135 or 120 film. Available from the UK.
I used TD16 and TF-4 only (no stop) on roll of Kodak Double X and it produced beautiful, spot free negatives. Thank you for the video! I think I found my new fixer.
Thanks Ted. Would be interested in hearing about enviro friendly disposal methods some time. About to set up minimalist darkroom for first time. Cheers.
Check his links in the description for the only two chemicals you will need to develop black and white film. Stick with B&W until you get a bit of experience, it's a simple process almost entirely self contained in that small patterson tank.
Thank you for tutoring us this video. Be honest now a day a lot of people out there don't event know the basic of photography . I remember when I was in school major in photography I spent a lot of money in film , paper , chemical etc and etc ; haha :) . Of course I still love the old school way in photography and I hope that we still keep using photography in film such as all the commercial industry's back to that cause quality is awesome and the commercial industry only use those photographer that know how to use the old school photography. What I seen a lot of people out there don't know how to use all the basic feature in camera all they depend on auto feature and etc ,,,,,, This is just my opinion n hope the commercial industry's heart that . Otherwise photography will disappear in the next generation completely! . Sincerely Shawn
Excellent video - full of quality and information! Excluding myself, of course, people who comment on your videos are very, very helpful as well. I can see how both the stop bath and hypo-clearing agent are eliminated with the TF4 fixer but won't eliminating the photo-flow wetting agent leave negatives with spots?
You might try a closet… or just prepare to have to dust off your negatives. I would actually not recommend using a dryer. They get dirty too and then they are a nightmare. They just blow dust on your images. Dryers are nice if you have a commercial lab and can maintain them - not so much for a home.
Interesting video, I love the TF-4 fixer. You should definitely give the PMK (Pyro) developer a try- also from Photogs Formulary. You'll never go back. Great tones, minimizes grain and makes reflective objects really shine in the photo. I've used HC110, D76 and all those others, but Pyro is the only one I'll use now
I know this is an old video, but if you wanna get super minimalist, get the Paterson multireel 3 with the ilford Mod54. That will let you do 3 rolls 35mm, 2 rolls 120 and 6 sheets of 4x5 all in the same tank. That's what I'm doing and it's really nice
When i started all i had was R09 one shot DEV, Ilford fix and the paterson tank. Instead of thermometer I used my finger when pouring up water and Let it sit for a few minutes. Actually I still do. No stopper just water and a drop of soap when i do final wash. You can get by really cheap.
I migth try that fixer, I use almost exclusive Adox Adonal. And sometimes when in a pinch I stop with Vinager (5% destilled diluted to 3%). Great video!!
Nice video and for the most part it's good information. My comments are not directed to you primarily but to your viewers who are considering this minimalist approach. First, I don't think glass is a good idea for darkroom. I utilize dedicated plastic containers which have lasted for more than three decades. Wash or rinse them out every time you replace the chemistry for that bottle, and you’re good to go. One drop on the floor and kiss that glass goodbye. Oh, and have fun cleaning up the splattered mess. Just hope you didn’t ruin any important belongings you own or, yikes, belonging to someone else! Second, that same Paterson tank will do 120 film just as well as 35mm. You can process two (2) 120 rolls per reel. Thread on the first film and push it to the very end of the reel. Then thread on the second roll. Buying another tank for 120 doesn't fit the minimalist theme and is not necessary for those on a budget or don't have the space. Steel tanks are quite good, but I would save that for your video on "The Upscale Darkroom." Clothes pins make sufficient film clips in a pinch. I would second your choice of Rodinal. Lasts forever. Amazing results.
Here in Germany Agfa Rodinal is still available, but its called R09 now. If your out a stuff, maybe I can send you a bottle. I love your Podcast by the way! Thank you very much for this!!
I just started developing this year. I'm using Adox Rodinal developer and it is absolutely reusable a couple of times. At least, my negatives are turning out just fine even after 5-6th time using the same dilution.
I have gotten the best results in STD developments by agitating for the first minute only, and agitation means turning very slowly and carefully the tank. Slowly and carefully. Then let it sit for 60 min. Now, if you want to leave it for longer is fine, as long as you only put 3.5 ml /per roll of 35mm film (for other film, do the math) of Rodinal for all the water you need. You can go to work and come back, the whole 3.5 ml/roll has been consumed (no over developing ,e tc.).
Great video! Thank you for making and posting. You've got great presentation skills! OK, so I gave this a try (first time developing film). Used D76 and TF-4 only (no stop), just a water rinse in between. Developing was perfect, but my loading of the TMAX-400 onto the steel reels was flawed. I had trouble with one roll and it got gnarled on the metal tracks with a couple of frames touching each other. The film seemed so much thinner than the expired color film I was using for practice. But the second roll was fine. I plan to scan the negs, so my developing darkroom easily fits into a box and my working space fit perfectly atop the washing machine (Gralab 300 timer, two graduates, two brown 1 gal jugs, a 2 reel tank, thermometer. Thanks again!
You're right, it is daunting. Especially for someone like me who's never ever developed my own film. : / I watched your developing vids a long time ago, when they first came out. I think it's time to re-watch those. But now I'm going to try & find your Part 2 in this series. Do you have any websites, etc to check out for us newbies? (BTW, I saw sweet little Finley walk by - what a cutie!) - Cheers!
Great show. Am about to develop my first roll (35mm) using a similar kit and your older podcast as a guide. Would greatly appreciate advice on safe chemical disposal options. Thanks!
Right now I am scanning my own negatives but I want to turn my basement into a darkroom, issue 1 doesn’t have running water so I’d have to run to a bathroom to wash prints. 2 we have a sceptic system so for me to dispose chemicals I have to bottle them and drive to a facility that recycled chemicals... we can’t dump down drain in CT with well water and sceptic. Right now I have to run chemicals just for the negatives, with trays this can be a lot more effort. Thoughts?
Hey hello, Just to add my grain of salt. Rodinal is good for high speed films, I used to push triX to EI1600 in rodinal 1+100 for 90 minutes at 20°C (with a starting time at 40 minutes at EI400). Agitation was continuous the first minute then only slight agitation every 30 minutes. Produced really good negatives. My rodinal was foma's one, the Fomadon R09 (same formula). I tried for fun to push it at EI12800.. I won't do it again, negs were bad. But it works ! For slow film and particularly when I want no grain I use Paterson FX39 instead. Less acutance but still a wide tonal range.
Hey Ted, I have had issues with T Max processed at the lab when the fixer was reused or used on several other rolls in a dip and dunk system. A bromide drag resulted and created uneven tonality blotches on the film. Have you ran into this when processing T Max and reusing your fixer or developer?
can you experiment with agitating at different intervals when diluting the rodinal with a lot of water? wait shorter, longer etc for similarly shot films and get different results?
I have a good set of optics for digital Canon EOS and I want to try the EOS film camera. But to develop the film at home do not understand how. Excuse me, tell me can I buy all chemicals on ebey? I can not find anything simple.
How do you dry your film after youre done with the development. I also have very little space so just need a tip on have to manage that part. Thanks in advanced!
Picked up an enlarger and complete darkroom (timers, safe light, easels, etc...) for $100. Now the issue is where to put it... Laundry room is dusty. Bathroom is a no-go. Might build out the garage but there would be heat/cold issues. I want to print 8x10 landscape for sale at shows.An aside... With an adapter I can use the enlarger lens for a poor man's macro. I'm leaning towards a high end scanner until I can figure out the Darkroom
Any suggestion on developing Neopan-1600? I have a lot of neopan 1600 left in the fridge and I'm new to developing. I've tried Rodinal, but don't like it.
I never roll my eyes at your quality photo vlog before however at 10:35 I did. Digital use plugin to emulate film looks and now film use a technique to get a digital look...
I need color Spot prints. About very old pictures, I doing fixed eye glasses white spot prints. Do you have Color prints little bottles. And light black and black prints bottles.
This short series basically allowed me to get my minor in photography! I am revisiting this now a few years later because I want to get back into it. I used this specific two step process you presented for 75% of my black and white film photography- the other 25% would be other developer/ fix combos- and the rare times I use XP2.
I’m going back to film after a 20 year hiatus and this has been super helpful. I already have the reels and tanks and I am glad I didn’t threw them away. I only plan to shoot and develop film, scan them into my computer, and print digitally. I didn’t know about TF4 before and this is something that I would like to try. It’d be great if I could do without stop bath and hypo cleaning agent. Many many thanks.
Love to hear somebody on RUclips who knows their stuff.
Gotta love minimalism! Great advice, on riding the purple casts from tmax and avoiding stop bath at the same time. =) Also useful note about the metal reels, I'm just sticking with the Patterson plastic for now - it works!
Ted, just developed my first roll of B&W film using TF4(great) it was really easy. Thanks for your videos explaining the process.
Great video, Ted. I'm just about to get starting with processing my own film, so the timing of this is perfect. Since I don't have the luxury of any sort of dedicated darkroom space, it's great to get your tips and tricks on how to make it work as minimally as possible.
Eagerly awaiting the second part of this one.
TF-4 is terrific. Photographer Formulary is terrific.
I purchased an Epson V500 for 155 bucks, brand new, on Amazon. I love it, especially since I can scan small and medium format negatives.
I absolutely LOVE film. I'm thirteen, and with such little money and resources available to me I'm torn between film and digital. I would like to set up a darkroom, but with the rise in cost for film and development I find myself leaning towards digital. I am quite scared that film will be gone when I have the money to shoot it, but digital is more economically friendly at the moment. I honestly wish that film was more widespread, but digital has taken over. Film looks exactly how you want it to look, and you just can't do that with digital.
don't worry man film is going nowhere
I’m also thirteen and that’s how I feel!
Film is slowly coming back, just like records. It's more popular now than it was 5 years ago.
One of the keys to shooting film is that you need to think and compose more in your head. You can't just shoot a lot and sort it out later, like with digital.
You CAN make digital just like you want, it just takes some fiddling.
5 years passed from the post and I Wonder if the film photography stills grabs his attention. I started my photography "carrier" at around 10 then when I getting to my 15 I switched to girls almost completely from photography ☺️. Then only after I had my own kids I returned to it. Now I'm thinking going with black and white film photography to develop the films myself.
Loving that giant, concrete pillar in your kitchen.
I just love how you're using the metric system and SI measures. Word of advice for those who want to source the necessary things at low budget: if you're buying a used dev tank, do make sure it comes with all the necessary parts and is indeed intended for manual developing. I made the mistake of buying a JOBO tank with the "sprocket top" and no axis tube nor reel. I thought I was saving money because I got it really cheap but getting the additional parts was a nightmare and ended costing much.
I was just looking into Jobo! Thanks!
In the US photography has been mostly metric for at least 60 years. Before WW2 it was grains and ounces but that shifted and by the 1960's no one used those old measures anymore. We still use inches for medium and large format films and papers but that's all I can think of.
Great video as always! I think many people are interested in film photography and showing them that they can do it with a minimalist equipment is a great idea. My 'minimalist' setup was a bottle of Rodinal, a bottle of fixer and a used tank that I bought for basically nothing and these three things were enough to start out. Today I shoot film a lot and I have tried many different chemicals and processes and I enjoyed most of them however Rodinal remains to be my favorite for b&w negs.
Another great show Ted....thanks for turning me on to TF-4, going to order some this weekend!
After a quick dip in dishwasher spotting agent and squeegee, I hang using a film clip at the top, hanging from the ceiling fan chain in my kitchen, with a simple clothes pin for weight at the very bottom. It works like a charm with no curling.
I've got one - they're okay… really clumsy and for me its easier just to do 4x5 in the dark. I'll do it at night with the bathroom door closed. My biggest issue is the time they take to drain and fill - you have to compensate. But if it works fo you - go for it!
I use film clips and hang it in the shower. Should dry in about 45min to an hour. Get a weighted film clip on the bottom though so it won't curl up against the tile. I hang them on the shower door rod.
Can't wait for the one about making prints. I'm moving to a little place soon and I was losing the hope I could keep on developing and doing my own prints until I saw this :) thanks a lot, you're an awesome teacher!
Wonderful, been building up my supplies to get developing; I started photography in a darkroom and would love to revisit it. A great spot to get cheap supplies is people liquidating their old darkrooms on Craigslist. Cheers.
Ted, I'm not sure minimalist is a word I'd associate with your videos. That said, I'm starting to realise that they contain a lot of interesting information, and I keep coming back to them.
It's really nice to see these videos being uploaded regularly. Keep up the good work Ted.
Looking forward to the printing podcast!
ORWO DP-31 reacts really well to stand developing. I did a 1:200 dilution and let it stand for 120 min. the results were pretty awesome.
Saw the 12 string guitar and I liked your information so I subcribed.
i love the little flicker of glee that flashes on your face when you mention that you can make it confusing haha.
I can vouch for TF-5, it's a fantastic fixer! Just as odorless as TF-4, mixes cleaner, and doesn't have that "milky" precipitate that forms when the stock settles. Also, alkaline fixers are superior for films developed with pyrocat as it doesn't remove image stain.
Cant wait to see how you develop large format. Do you have a video how you use large format camera?
awesome video Ted i've just started developing my own B/W medium and 35mm format film. I don't use a darkroom just a dark bag, but gonna eventually create one, when i move. keep up the videos
Once again a fantastic video. Well done Ted!
If you want to further reduce the size of your kit and have a 3 reel Paterson Tank check out a handy little gadget called the MOD 54 that enables you to process 4x5 film in normal light without needing the dipping tanks. Once loaded you just process like you would a 135 or 120 film. Available from the UK.
I used TD16 and TF-4 only (no stop) on roll of Kodak Double X and it produced beautiful, spot free negatives. Thank you for the video! I think I found my new fixer.
If TD16 works nicely do you think D76 will work?
Thanks Ted. Would be interested in hearing about enviro friendly disposal methods some time. About to set up minimalist darkroom for first time. Cheers.
Check his links in the description for the only two chemicals you will need to develop black and white film. Stick with B&W until you get a bit of experience, it's a simple process almost entirely self contained in that small patterson tank.
Color you need a C41 kit, Freestyle photo is a great place, and for 4x5 you might need also a rotary system or temp controlled sink due temp control
Thank you for tutoring us this video. Be honest now a day a lot of people out there don't event know the basic of photography . I remember when I was in school major in photography I spent a lot of money in film , paper , chemical etc and etc ; haha :) .
Of course I still love the old school way in photography and I hope that we still keep using photography in film such as all the commercial industry's back to that cause quality is awesome and the commercial industry only use those photographer that know how to use the old school photography.
What I seen a lot of people out there don't know how to use all the basic feature in camera all they depend on auto feature and etc ,,,,,,
This is just my opinion n hope the commercial industry's heart that . Otherwise photography will disappear in the next generation completely! . Sincerely
Shawn
This is so wanting me to develop film again! For under $100 you can get all this material and a Holga 120. Seriously thinking about doing it!
Excellent video - full of quality and information! Excluding myself, of course, people who comment on your videos are very, very helpful as well. I can see how both the stop bath and hypo-clearing agent are eliminated with the TF4 fixer but won't eliminating the photo-flow wetting agent leave negatives with spots?
You might try a closet… or just prepare to have to dust off your negatives.
I would actually not recommend using a dryer. They get dirty too and then they are a nightmare. They just blow dust on your images.
Dryers are nice if you have a commercial lab and can maintain them - not so much for a home.
was overwhelmed with the process. looking better now. on to part two!
Interesting video, I love the TF-4 fixer. You should definitely give the PMK (Pyro) developer a try- also from Photogs Formulary. You'll never go back. Great tones, minimizes grain and makes reflective objects really shine in the photo. I've used HC110, D76 and all those others, but Pyro is the only one I'll use now
I know this is an old video, but if you wanna get super minimalist, get the Paterson multireel 3 with the ilford Mod54. That will let you do 3 rolls 35mm, 2 rolls 120 and 6 sheets of 4x5 all in the same tank. That's what I'm doing and it's really nice
When i started all i had was R09 one shot DEV, Ilford fix and the paterson tank. Instead of thermometer I used my finger when pouring up water and Let it sit for a few minutes. Actually I still do.
No stopper just water and a drop of soap when i do final wash. You can get by really cheap.
Thanks, excellent tips on the slow development method, i need to try that 👍🏻
I migth try that fixer, I use almost exclusive Adox Adonal. And sometimes when in a pinch I stop with Vinager (5% destilled diluted to 3%). Great video!!
Nice video and for the most part it's good information. My comments are not directed to you primarily but to your viewers who are considering this minimalist approach. First, I don't think glass is a good idea for darkroom. I utilize dedicated plastic containers which have lasted for more than three decades. Wash or rinse them out every time you replace the chemistry for that bottle, and you’re good to go. One drop on the floor and kiss that glass goodbye. Oh, and have fun cleaning up the splattered mess. Just hope you didn’t ruin any important belongings you own or, yikes, belonging to someone else!
Second, that same Paterson tank will do 120 film just as well as 35mm. You can process two (2) 120 rolls per reel. Thread on the first film and push it to the very end of the reel. Then thread on the second roll. Buying another tank for 120 doesn't fit the minimalist theme and is not necessary for those on a budget or don't have the space. Steel tanks are quite good, but I would save that for your video on "The Upscale Darkroom."
Clothes pins make sufficient film clips in a pinch.
I would second your choice of Rodinal. Lasts forever. Amazing results.
Here in Germany Agfa Rodinal is still available, but its called R09 now. If your out a stuff, maybe I can send you a bottle.
I love your Podcast by the way! Thank you very much for this!!
I just started developing this year. I'm using Adox Rodinal developer and it is absolutely reusable a couple of times. At least, my negatives are turning out just fine even after 5-6th time using the same dilution.
I have gotten the best results in STD developments by agitating for the first minute only, and agitation means turning very slowly and carefully the tank. Slowly and carefully. Then let it sit for 60 min. Now, if you want to leave it for longer is fine, as long as you only put 3.5 ml /per roll of 35mm film (for other film, do the math) of Rodinal for all the water you need. You can go to work and come back, the whole 3.5 ml/roll has been consumed (no over developing ,e tc.).
love rodinal or it's equivalent it works well it's one shot stand is awesome
Great video! Thank you for making and posting. You've got great presentation skills!
OK, so I gave this a try (first time developing film). Used D76 and TF-4 only (no stop), just a water rinse in between. Developing was perfect, but my loading of the TMAX-400 onto the steel reels was flawed. I had trouble with one roll and it got gnarled on the metal tracks with a couple of frames touching each other. The film seemed so much thinner than the expired color film I was using for practice. But the second roll was fine.
I plan to scan the negs, so my developing darkroom easily fits into a box and my working space fit perfectly atop the washing machine (Gralab 300 timer, two graduates, two brown 1 gal jugs, a 2 reel tank, thermometer.
Thanks again!
Really loved this episode.
You're right, it is daunting. Especially for someone like me who's never ever developed my own film. : /
I watched your developing vids a long time ago, when they first came out. I think it's time to re-watch those. But now I'm going to try & find your Part 2 in this series. Do you have any websites, etc to check out for us newbies? (BTW, I saw sweet little Finley walk by - what a cutie!) - Cheers!
Thanks for all your vids. Wanting to have a go at all this. Keep it up.
Doesn't the time you develop the film depend on the temperature of your developer?
Great show. Am about to develop my first roll (35mm) using a similar kit and your older podcast as a guide. Would greatly appreciate advice on safe chemical disposal options. Thanks!
Aren't the Paterson reels adjustable width? IIRC, they are, and that Paterson tank is big enough for two 35 mm or one 120 roll.
Thank you for this, I have been wanting to try developing my own film.
2:08 cat walks in
8 minutes cat plays with wardrobe
10:18 cat reappears with new look
Just wanna say this was super informative. Thank you very much -- you're really good at explaining what you're passionate about. :)
Thank you! You explain things so well.
Right now I am scanning my own negatives but I want to turn my basement into a darkroom, issue 1 doesn’t have running water so I’d have to run to a bathroom to wash prints.
2 we have a sceptic system so for me to dispose chemicals I have to bottle them and drive to a facility that recycled chemicals... we can’t dump down drain in CT with well water and sceptic. Right now I have to run chemicals just for the negatives, with trays this can be a lot more effort.
Thoughts?
I use water as a stop bath. Works just as well with any fixer imo. Cheaper too
I stick in a capful of white vinegar. You can also use a squeeze of Lemon Juice.
hey! would you run that for around a minute, just like a stopbath?
Me too.
Yes. Running water.
I noticed a wedding party on the checklist behind the enlarger!
Great video, Ted. What are your thoughts on daylight developing tanks?
Hey hello,
Just to add my grain of salt.
Rodinal is good for high speed films, I used to push triX to EI1600 in rodinal 1+100 for 90 minutes at 20°C (with a starting time at 40 minutes at EI400). Agitation was continuous the first minute then only slight agitation every 30 minutes. Produced really good negatives. My rodinal was foma's one, the Fomadon R09 (same formula).
I tried for fun to push it at EI12800.. I won't do it again, negs were bad. But it works !
For slow film and particularly when I want no grain I use Paterson FX39 instead. Less acutance but still a wide tonal range.
Thanks, yeah I stumbled across that info online just as this comment came through. Do you know anything about dev times?
Thanks.
I also play Strat and do photography :-)
+Harut Martirosyan Do you play Strat or do you play a Strat?
+BurningtunaDC my bad, I play a Stratocaster guitar :-)
That cat!
+Rexus King Recently found out your channel, really enjoying your videos
Hey Ted, I have had issues with T Max processed at the lab when the fixer was reused or used on several other rolls in a dip and dunk system. A bromide drag resulted and created uneven tonality blotches on the film. Have you ran into this when processing T Max and reusing your fixer or developer?
Yep - you can.
Developer: Rodinal 1+100. Stand develop for 60 minutes. Fixer/Stop: TF-5 1:3. No need for an extra stop bath. The TF-5 stops and fixes.
Best channel out there, keep going, you are awesome!
these are good for both color and black/white?
Awesome video and cool strat
Hey Ted i was wondering if you have any experience developing color negative film and it would be cool if you could do a video on it
Thanks
rodinal and tri-x , Thatcher bring back memoires
can you experiment with agitating at different intervals when diluting the rodinal with a lot of water? wait shorter, longer etc for similarly shot films and get different results?
Can you go over how to set up a color darkroom
So with tf4 there is no need for a clearing agent such as kodak photo flo?
I have a good set of optics for digital Canon EOS and I want to try the EOS film camera. But to develop the film at home do not understand how. Excuse me, tell me can I buy all chemicals on ebey? I can not find anything simple.
How do you dry your film after youre done with the development. I also have very little space so just need a tip on have to manage that part. Thanks in advanced!
What about selenium toner for archival stability?
love the video...
way off topic, but is that a cement column in your kitchen?
Do you know where in the UK I can get some TF-4 or indeed TF-5? I see that I can get it from the US but the shipping cost will be crippling!
if you want to soup Tri-X in rodinal you will want to use 1+50 or more dilute.
Picked up an enlarger and complete darkroom (timers, safe light, easels, etc...) for $100. Now the issue is where to put it... Laundry room is dusty. Bathroom is a no-go. Might build out the garage but there would be heat/cold issues. I want to print 8x10 landscape for sale at shows.An aside... With an adapter I can use the enlarger lens for a poor man's macro. I'm leaning towards a high end scanner until I can figure out the Darkroom
Any suggestion on developing Neopan-1600? I have a lot of neopan 1600 left in the fridge and I'm new to developing. I've tried Rodinal, but don't like it.
Thanks for this information !
Your cat is like who is he talking too? Lol Thanks for sharing.
Help! I'm going to develop some 400-TX with the adox adonal at 1:25 dilution. Where might I find developing times?
I never roll my eyes at your quality photo vlog before however at 10:35 I did. Digital use plugin to emulate film looks and now film use a technique to get a digital look...
A walk-in bathroom? Is there any other kind? :)
Fantastic! Many thanks
Where do you disposed your chemicals after use ?
how much fixer should I use to dilute it in water ?
Have you tried New 55 Film mono bath developer?
Very informative, thank you
I'll check - maybe it hit the spam filter…
I dont use a stop bath. Just clean running water.
I need color Spot prints. About very old pictures, I doing fixed eye glasses white spot prints. Do you have Color prints little bottles. And light black and black prints bottles.
Have you tried the T5 yet? Would you recommend it over the TF-4?
Nice cat and very informative!
Hi, I'm planning to make my own enlarger (makeshift) any tips, please?