Avoid A Critical Track Saw Mistake |
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- Quick Tip, the very first cut you make on your new track saw can determine how accurate your alignment of the rail to your marks will be going forward. If you only have one rail, this tip / trick will ensure first cut accurately cuts your splinter guard which is used for alignment.
#makita #tracksaw #doityourself 
Хобби
Thank you Eminem!
Hmmmm, Eminem? Really!? Lol
I would have said slim.
He looks way better then Eminem does nowadays. Eminem has had too much plastic surgery
My first thought was Eminem
@plummetplum 😂
if you have 2 rails you combine you can also keep in from the front and back, then flip the rails so the ends are now in the middle, easy to trim and stay away from the ends for the first cuts.
Absolutely, if you have two rails…which I do not unfortunately. 💵
@@dellsdiy yeah yours is a good solution. I learned the hard way at first and had to buy a replacement splinter guard, went right to the end and cut it narrower than the rest.
Exactly what I was going to say
Thts wt i ws thinkin
correct!!
Thanks a bunch, best tip I have seen for first trim of the black splinter guards. I also read another useful tip from someone to adjust the front and back tightness of the saw to the guide rail first, to eliminate the slop and then make the first cut. Much appreciated.
Glad this helped you!👊🔥thanks for watching!
This is a very creative solution. I never use the very edges of my tracks because they need to hang over the board in order to give the saw length to complete and start the cut.
I very slightly damaged the splinter guard on the first alignment cut, I heated the track with a blow dryer, easily peeled of the splinter guard, and just flipped the guard around and re-stuck it, its now perfect
That’s a great tip! Thanks!
Anyone who has a track saw should plan on having two tracks with connectors, it’s the whole point of having a track saw. Accuracy, safety, and speed of cutting is the reason to get one. Ripping down sheet goods is a must with two tracks.
Thanks for the comment. Yes,2 tracks would be nice but working on a budget could make that difficult as it did for me. From talking with many others it seems combining two 59” rails is not the best solution. If you’re spending the money might as well get the 110” rail so you don’t have to deal with aligning the two tracks and disconnecting then connecting depending on cross cutting vs ripping.
This is a great tip, as the 55" does wobble on the ends when cutting 48" width of plywood. Another tip is don't use another saw on your guide rail. Shop foreman borrowed my track and used another saw. Same brand but cut my rubber .5mm narrower
Very good point! Any new saw or even changing the blade on your own saw could mess up splinter guard
@@dellsdiy I've been using track saws for quite a while now and I have problems with splinter guard accuracy, my question is that the blade, no matter how thick, bumps up to the same place regardless so how is it affecting the splinter guard? Also nice tip on finishing off the splinter guard
I just used this on my new Kreg Track Saw. Great tip! Thanks!
Thanks for letting me know this worked for you!
On the makita plunge saw you’ll see an indent at the front of the base, use that to line up with your marks as that’s the “cut line” marker where the blade actually sits in line with. If you’re out using your rails and they’re in and out of a van multiple times a day, the rubber splinter guard doesn’t last very long, this is how I align my saw. 👍🏻
Not sure what indents you’re referring to but I’ll definitely be going out to the workshop tonight to check it out!
@@dellsdiy front right hand side looking straight down, the base curves in at the tip, that’s exactly in line with the blade when it’s plunged
So that mark shows where the front of the cut will end. This video is about the cut against the splinter guard which is used for lining up the rail against the cut length
@@dellsdiy I know the mark you mean, there are two of them to show the front and rear of the blade, however go and look head on at your saw whilst you have the blade plunged and you’ll see what I mean
@@hw664what are these marks going to make happen in relation to the track though?
This is a good tip. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Or, do what is probably intended by the manufacturers, buy track that exceeds the length of the work piece…. I don’t think anyone intended for the saw to actually leave the track at the end
That’s not the intention to ever have the saw leave the track. The purpose of the video is for having an accurately cut sliver guard for accurate alignment on a workpiece. If the sliver guard is mangled 8 inches in on each side you won’t be able to align the track to cut a 48” sheet of plywood …has nothing to do with running the saw off the track during a cut
Outstanding advice 😊
Thank you!! Thanks for watching
Thank you so much for letting me know. I’m about to use mine for the first time tomorrow.
The first beer is on me 😊
It has become my favorite tool in the shop. Good luck with yours and hopefully you like using it!!
You will lose those tips of the splinter guard over time anyways when you don’t have the added board. **Best thing to do is to put a sharpie mark on your track where the saw can first start to deviate and cut away excess splinter guard making it inaccurate (where the end of the saw comes off the track). Then just know to pay extra attention or don’t use the very ends past those marks when lining up the track for cuts.
Very true. But if you mainly cut shorter boards or rip 48” plywood sheets, the track should continue to be accurate. Best bet is to have multiple tracks including a 110” track, 55” track and then you don’t have a need cut to the ends. Thanks for the comment!
Great tip! Thank you!😊
Thank you, hope it helps
Great little tip.
Glad you liked it! Thanks!!
Excellent tip
Thanks! Glad it was helpful
Interesting! I use a 110” track for long table side rips on final dimensioning. I use an 8’ level (aluminum) to bring the two rails straight. I do this by laying level on side on a flat surface and butting up the metal lip above splinter guard to bring it flush. Then I tighten screws slightly. Once I have this set up I’m good. I don’t take it apart, instead I just bought another track part that I use for shorter cuts so o don’t have to take it apart.
This little rail extension would help on ends, as sometimes the blade digs in at end when coming to a stop because I ran out of track!
This tip was really just for the initial cut that trims the splinter guard so the rail can be used accurately to line up pencil marks for accurate cuts. Having a couple tracks would definitely be the better ‘em way to make that initial cut
@@dellsdiy I really want the ONE piece track but that's an investment in itself, expensive! Dewalt is about 230 for 102", Makita 118" is like 300$+ , and festool is a whopping 500$+ for 106". I guess if you are a production shop and are making money then whatever, but still.
@@thenext9537 at some point I will buy the 118” Makita. It will be so handy for ripping full sheets of plywood when I’m making 7-8’ tall cabinets
@@dellsdiy Yes indeed. Especially when you don't have to worry about attaching the two tracks and messing with the screws AND trying to keep things straight :) pain in my ass I tell ya.
Solid gold thank you sir!!!
You are welcome! Glad it helped
Genius. Thank you
Thanks for watching!
Thanks
You’re welcome!
Awesome idea 💡
Thank you!
Thanks for sharing
@shakeeshakee9457 thanks for watching!
If you're going out this far on a regular basis, you're going to mangle your splinter guard at some point. It's not just the first cut, it's every single one after. Getting it dialed like this will help you use the splinter guard to line up with layout marks, but that's it.
Yep that’s correct, this is mainly for alignment going forward not for making cuts that go this far out
I have got a Makita SP001GZ03 track saw and when cutting wood, the blade seems to be cutting into the body of the saw. The blade seems to be just 1mm away from the body. What am I possibly doing wrong?
It’s cutting the body of the saw or the aluminum rail of the track?
@@dellsdiythe body of the saw. I can send you a picture.
@@dellsdiy ruclips.net/user/shortsD2Ek7_PVxwQ?si=W-3qfF7BK9hcGwnC
I’ve never seen that before. Shoot me a pic
@@dellsdiy ruclips.net/user/shortsD2Ek7_PVxwQ?si=W-3qfF7BK9hcGwnC
Do you do this on just the end, or the beginning as well?
The front and back of the track
I have the Mikita and mine does not cut square to the blade for some reason.
Square to the blade meaning it’s not 90 degree cut? Like the cut is beveled?
After further thought, I’m not sure why you would need to do this. If your saw blade cannot cut into this portion of the splinter guard, it cannot cut material there anyway. You would only need to line up the splinter guard onto material you were actually cutting. If anything, this seems to hurt you because now you don’t know where your saw will actually start cutting, say if you were trying to maximize length of a rip cut with a single piece of track. Seems better to know where the saw will actually start and stop cutting material.
I’m not following because the saw can cut into that part of the splinter guard when the front or back of the saw comes out of the track. Then when you go to line up your track on the workpiece by using the splinter guard, since the guard was cut incorrectly on the end, the entire alignment of the track is now off
When you are using the saw, you do not push it partially off the track correct? So the cut splinter guard marks the actual cutting capacity of the guide rail, which is less than the full length of the track. This is why the track is 55” to cut 48” material, because you would not want the saw to come off the track when you’re cutting. Right?
Thank you for advice, I change blade, now I need new splinter guard or need buy new track?
New splinter guard is all you need when you change blades but only if your new blade is a different kerf from original blade. Splinter guards are fairly inexpensive and easy to change.
@@dellsdiy yep its diferent blade from original, i have bougt cmt for alu and its great for all kinds materials mdf..but now i have inacurate track saw. Im curently have einhell track saw with cmt blade and now I have inacurate track with perfect cut. I was looking splinter guard for einhell saw and nothing, I need to buy new track which is around 70€. Anywhay Im planing to buy new tracksaw and in the finals play makita dsp 600z (cordless) where I already have makita colony of tools and batteries 😃 then pair it with festool track.....or go with premium festool kebi plus tsc 55, track batteries which is whopping 1400€ here in Croatia. I have one more option 😅 festool tsv kebq 60 with scoring function and price 1435€. Im making furniture and I need it from job to job. Is it festool realy worth that money?? Makita with track without battery is only 490€. Sorry for long story, but Im in heavy doubt 😅 and I will probably spend 10 more hours of my life watching videos 😅😅 any kind of help will be great.
Yep, that’s what happens. Put on a new splinter guard and you’ll have perfect cuts again
now you tell me...just initiated my Ryobi track saw yesterday. It was briefly on sale for $200. I bet that price will come back for black friday etc.
Sorry about the bad timing but anything can be fixed if needed. Let me know what you think about that track saw…I’ve heard good things about it
Direct Tools outlet has the PTS01B for $130 right now. They're labeled as "Factory Blemished" but they're New.
@@daveclark8337 - Wow, what a deal (and not the only one, I'll need to keep an eye on this outlet).
Bro, you're making a mountain out of a molehill. Set it on score for control, cut after the start of the splinter guard, roll back, go forward and through. It will finish shedding the guard before it goes off track.
I appreciate the suggestion. When I move my Makita saw to the front or back edges the saw guide that rides in the track will extend past the track and become free before cutting the entire splinter guard. This is why I had to go this route. Maybe the issue was resolved in the newer cordless models🤷
Does it work on the back end of the rail?
Absolutely, just flip the rail and line it up and you’ll start cutting before getting to the rail
Please where can I get this such ruler?…..
Below is a link that has all different sizes that you can choose from.
amzn.to/3UWcg7Q
Wow now that's a tracks
🙌🏻
The makita track has never been accurate for me. I guess this is why. Would have bben nice to know before hand.
You can buy a new splinter guard and stick it on your track and you be back in business with perfect cuts
@@dellsdiy thanks!
Why don't they just make they already trimmed flush with the rail?
Great question! At some point though you’ll always want to replace your splinter guard especially after changing saw blades if you use a different blade
So how do you cut a 8ft sheet with the track rail if its only 4ft long?
Right now I only crosscut an 8 ft sheet with the track saw. In my upcoming French cleat video and my current Jessem clear cut stock guides video, I’m cutting full sheets on the table saw
Creating solution - i botched that on my first TWO track saws
I’ve done it as well🤷♂️. Would be easier with two rails
Even after this care due to play in bottom plate it cut more rubber and than also it looses accuracy
There shouldn’t be any play between the track and the saw. As long as you adjust the knobs on the saw that increase tension between the saw and the track, the saw shouldn’t cut into the splinter guard
You aren't supposed to cut that far. If you keep the saw on the track not only will you not have to monkey around with this but you will also know how long/wide of a peice you can cut
It’s not about cutting that far, it’s about being able to use the guiderail for accurate alignment when making a cut
Until the first time you run the saw off the track then it’s all messed up anyway
I agree but really you should never be running the saw off the end of the track or else a second track should be used
Critical mistakes are contraception failures. Us woodworkers like to use the term “ pitfalls” in stead. Pay attention or pay cash!
😄 avoiding the pitfalls is all we can ask for sometimes.
Or just get longer track ,and cut in the safer zone
Agree. This video is for people who only have one track and is not meant to be used to cut to the ends of the rails, just to clean up the splinter guard for accurate alignment
I think the most critical mistake is when a tracksaw is purchased and it’s not a Festool! Festool Green makes the cut more accurate. Lol I’m just kidding. Sorry for trolling. I couldn’t resist!
I think the Festool track saws actually cut all on their own, like little robots. lol. They are great tools, I unfortunately own zero
Eminem doing woodworking
lol. I guess I could be called worse
This isn't a worthwhile TRICK...you may do this and get a perfectly straight splinter guard...but the first time you cut anything and have to extend part way off the track you can easily recut the guard off line which you were trying to prevent in the first place..best thing you can do is just make sure you have more track than you need for each cut to allow starting and ending the cut before and past the ends of the cut...
That’s correct but the goal is to never. It off the end of the track. This trick is to cut the guard perfectly so you can use the guard for alignment
Yeah but the next time you use it without the affiliation guide length it’ll wiggle and cut the end of the rubber…?
That’s true if I am cutting from end to end but since this is the shorter rail it’s really only used to make shorter cuts where the longest is typically 48” to crosscut a sheet of plywood and it’s a 55” rail.
Ah, yes can see some benefit as the end rubber is used to line up the track with a mark to cut to, need the rubber to be in the right place
The end of all my tracks are off so i have to eyeball it haha, “that minus 0.5/1mm”
Uuum. Whatever happened to using a table saw?
Track saws help break down large sheets of plywood so they are more manageable on the table saw. Also, track saws work amazingly well to create a straight edge on a board if you don’t have a jointer. I’ll show this in my next full length video where I make side tables
Now that will be shot the first time you use the saw without doing the same thing. They are designed to hand long on both ends which makes this irrelevant.
Unfortunately you missed the point which does make this very relevant. The video isn’t meant to show how to cut to the end of the rail. The ends of the rail are meant for alignment to cut lines but if you screw up the guide rails on the initial cut then you can’t use the guide rails to align to your cut line. For example, when crosscutting a full sheet of plywood, that’s 48” and the track is 55”, leaving a total of 7” overhang or 3.5” on both sides. The saw will come off of the track roughly 6” in front and behind the rail. If you jack up the splinter guard by going off the rail on the very first cut when you trim the splinter guard then you will no longer be able to align to pencil marks on two sides of a sheet of plywood.
Or just buy 2 track rails lol 😅
$120 vs free🤔
Why don't they cut it at the factory to begin with?😏
That’s a very good question🤷♂️
Because different saws will have variation in the cut offset and they generally sell the tracks separately from the saw.
Old shop rat that farts dust approves of this trick
Thank you for your approval!!😀. Some of my tricks turn out to be complete disasters
Thy
Thy?
Thank you. Great tip, I will use it when get mine.
You’re welcome. I need to brush up on my acronyms these days.