Makita Track Saw First Cuts - Calibrating the Rails - Part 2 of the Makita Track Saw Tutorial
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- Опубликовано: 31 июл 2019
- My last video was an unboxing of the Makita 18v x2 LXT Track Saw. This is the first use and trimming the track. I'm also using the Insta Rail-Square from Tool Nut. This is an awesome addon that is worth the money.
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This is the second video i've watched about setting up the track and on both vids, you guys dont talk about how you should adjust the play that the saw has when its sitting on the track. if you dont adjust the play with the back and front adjuster screws, the saw will wiggle while its on the track. the very first thing you should do before you cut the rubber which is going to be the guide for that track FORVER is to get rid of the play without having too much friction with the saw running along the track. once you dial that in, then you can go ahead and cut the rubber. i noticed with my brand new saw on the track it had a wiggle of about +/- 1/16 of an inch. you should also check if the saw blade is parallel to the track notch guide. If you're spending top dollar on a track saw, you should take the time to set up the tools right.
This is a great comment. Watched a bunch of videos and everyone was just like cut and have support. So I did without adjusting the cam and now ruined rubber.
@@alanoei3584 the rubbers are easily replaced, and replacement rubbers of most brands are also interchangeable.
How do you adjust it fresh out the box before cutting ? Please thanks
@@Eyehearttravels place the saw anywhere in the track and wiggle to ascertain any play. Then adjust the two knobs on top of the base (fore and aft) to remove that play. Try to use similar amounts on each knob to avoid toe-in or out. Once adjusted, make a shallow, full length cut in some scrap to trim the rubber to match the saw’s settings and you are good to go.
@@petergosney6433 thanks you 🤟🏽
Great saw especially ruclips.net/user/postUgkxxnKxcY0vm4xjW8xkPbjaHuKt10gr-wG_ considering how drastically cheaper it is than every other track saw on the market. Only things I would mention is replace the blade immediately, the 24 tooth blade supplied leaves a lot to be desired.
The Makita saw base has only 2 small rectangular contact points that ride in the channel of the guide & these contact points are set in quite a bit from the saw base ends. If you use the scoring function one of these contact points will be out of the guide rail channel when cutting to either end of zero clearance rubber strip. That allows .080" total play or 1mm side to side. To cut the zero clearance strip accurately you have to connect 2 guide rails & plunge cut into far end of 1st rail & the beginning of 2nd rail then cut towards end of 2nd until saw base is near end of rail but not off end. You then disconnect 1st guide rail & connect it to other end of 2nd rail then complete cut of zero clearance strip up to the point where the 1st rail was cut when it was connected to the other end of the 2nd guide rail. Sounds complicated but it's not. The Festool track saw base makes continuous contact & doesn't have this problem. I have a Makita saw like yours & when I cut my only 55 inch guide rail I noticed the zero clearance cut wasn't accurate at either end. I had to buy a new rubber strip & also a 39" rail that I could leapfrog with the 55". Now both are dead nut accurate.
I see that you addressed it in earlier replies. But I relied on a similar video such as yours & ruined my rubber strip. Don't know if you can go back & edit videos when they contain misinformation but it would be nice.
Thank you! I hadn't thought of this at all, but you are of course 100% correct. I have two rails ready for cutting now, so I will definitely do this.
Yes, thank you! I have not found this info elsewhere but I'm lucky - I found it before the cut : D
I literally have been searching Makita videos and forum posts trying to see if someone addressed this when cutting the splinter guard the first time. I don't want to falsely be lining up my cuts with rubber i cut out play. Thank god I found this comment.
And.. I have a perfect solution to fix this Makita problem.. I just hope no one else has thought of it, because I want all the monies.
@@peterjohnjoseph what's your fix? 🧐
I bought the TSO guides and parallel guide system and in order to break down full sheets properly, I had to buy a pair of the 118" tracks and cut one of them down so I could go across the short side of a sheet of plywood.
That's a good idea and my only real complaint with this square. 90% of the time I rip cut first, but that 10% of the time is frustrating. What did you cut your rails to?
I can't wait to get my new Makita! I went with corded model. Have cordless tools and batteries. I went with the PowerTec tracks, as they were a better deal than Makita. Hope you are still enjoying the Makita!
Absolutely love my tracksaw. I value it higher than my grizzly 3hp cabinet saw. That’s how nice a tracksaw is
How do you like the powertec track?
I scored a corded with the 55 track for $450.
The track alone bought individually is like 250.
I'll buy the power tec ones if I ever need to join 2 together
Hi excellent presentation. I wonder have you ever put your cut against a level to see if there is a daylight? Please advise. Thanks
Would love a follow up video. Discussing the insta rail square how it performs as well as your thoughts on the makita track saw as a whole likes dislikes etc
VONDOOM88 will do
Is there a special promo out there I could use the batteries. Very nice saw. I hope I can find a deal like yours I’m just waiting around
What are you using to connect the dust port to the shop hose & where can I find that (HD, Lowe's or Amazon)?
Did you do a insta rail square video? Looking for more info on it. There's an XL model now for 20 bucks more....
I wish you had made a 5 th cut and measured the difference from the top of the 5 th cut to bottom of the 5 cut this would give you a true measurement of how accurate the square is.
Nice
The right-hand sided blade of this saw seems to make it awkward for right-handed people when using the guide track. It forces you to use your left hand on the main grip handle when ripping a narrow piece off a larger panel. A left-hand sided blade would make this easier for right-handed people.
is that with the included saw blade that you cut the rubber ? The one included in my kit looks quite rough (165 mm)...
On that fourth cut, you changed the angle that the initial cut was supposed to have made square. I think it's definitely a useful tool, but the fact that there was an 1/8" difference would make me not want to use it blindly for any work requiring great precision.
Do you have a link to the guide rail square?
That kid reminded me of me when I was a kid interrupting my dad when he was doing something important
That guys laugh got you a like
QUESTION:
So you adjust the knobs on the saw so it runs smooth on the rail with no binding or slop and then you tighten them? Then you make your first cut which cuts the zero clearance on the rubber?
Then the edge of the rubber is what you line up on your marks to cut? What happens if you start getting slop at some point and you readjust the knobs? Cause if your readjustment moved the blade away from the rubber then your cuts would be off of course. Just wondering before I make my first cut if these knobs truly stay tightened in place so all future cuts are straight.
Eventually as the tool is used you will have to readjust the tension knobs, and eventually you’ll have to replace the rubber strip.
We use this saw every day and use it A LOT. I just replaced the rubber splinter guard. So it does wear out but it’s not something that wears out quickly
@@DaileyWoodworks Thank you!
Why I went with the corded. Because as long as you’re using a vacuum you have a tether so what’s another tether. No chance of power lost which results in kick back. Or binding. Lower price. I work in a shop not a job site and even if I did I would just run an extension cord.
Hey man, I just purchased this saw with the same two tracks you have here in this video. I was wondering if you could answer some questions for me? First off, am I correct to say that there is no positive stop for 0 degrees with this saw? It seems Makita included positive stops for 22.5 and 45 degrees only. If this is true, then it seems the only way to set the saw to 0 degrees is by loosening the clamping knobs and setting the saw to 0 degrees by using the scale. I don't like trusting my eye (by looking at the arrow on the scale) every time I go back to 0 degrees. Checking the blade at the base of the saw with a square every time I change back to 0 degrees would be a pain! Is there something I'm missing here? Also, how do you accurately cut off the black strip at both ends of the rails? To do this, one of the tension knobs that holds the saw firmly on the rail has to slide off of the rail. Doing this causes the saw to wander, unless you have a very steady hand. Any advice on this issue? I've watched just about every setup video on youtube in regard to this saw and I haven't heard anything about these issues. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Don 99 comes up with an idea in a comment above (ruclips.net/video/FVj36BtHTzI/видео.html&lc=UgwHOTyeuFL7pmjFloR4AaABAg)
where do you buy a 39 in. track?
Cordless is for site use. In the 'shop you need a vacuum hose, so why not add a power lead? I modified my saw to take a power socket, so that plugs in at the same time. And it all comes from overhead so no need to handle it. What is great about tracksaws is that they are all made for us lefties!
I work about 90% in the shop. 10% in the field. Even in the shop I want to be as cordless as possible. Grabbing the tool and sticking the vac hose on is still faster than grabbing the tool, unrolling the cord, plugging it in etc.
Yeah it’s a luxury to be cordless not a necessity but I really like having the option.
Dailey Woodworks As I said, I do not have a cord to unwind. It is attached to the hose; plugs in at the saw Festool style. One second, faster than batteries. And the vac comes on automatically.
Would love to know exactly how you were able to get the power and vacuum to be plugged in at the same time. Power socket? For the Makita track saw?
@@BrentDaughertyMe See ruclips.net/video/Fk3tkcjQ7tQ/видео.html fir details on how I fitted a power socket to my tracksaw- and all my other power tools (sander etc). Mine is a DeWalt, but this system can be used on any make. Even it it cannot be fitted direct to the tool, it can be in-line. It is faster than fetching a battery, never runs out, and the tool is lighter. And cheaper.
Wondering if you can tell us what the decibels are like on this saw?
quieter than a circular saw and has a soft start.
How are you not cutting up your workbench? I think I've missed something. Is it sitting on a shim?
I use sacrificial strips that I put on the bench when cutting
@@DaileyWoodworks I couldn’t see anything in the video
What vacuum system are you using?
Just a shop vac and I think that is the Rockler brand hose
my Makita track saw cuts a nice curved piece with the long 9 foot track. It cuts a cupped (smile) shape with an 1/8" drop in the middle of the cut. There is zero play of the saw on the track
Did you adjust the base to the track before trimming the splinter guard. There are some adjustable cams which removes the slop between the base of the saw and the track while still allowing it to glide freely. If you trim the splinter guard without doing this it may ruin the splinter guard as it won't line up with the blade perfectly when adjusted.
Do post more videos on the saw, considering purchasing one myself and would really appreciate your thoughts.
Yes I did. Next week’s video is going to be a complete overview of every knob lever, and adjustment that can be made on the saw.
I have a friend who has the festool ts55 and we’re going to do a “head to head” comparison in a few weeks.
Anything else you’re wondering about?
What happens if you run saw to far past the track?
Troy LaDoux itll fall off
You get a blade mark at the end ruining the clean cut
Here's another reason why having a guide rail that is long enough to start fully plunged before the cut and end fully plunged after the cut. I haven't yet checked my Makita but the one in this video has the front of the blade canted in .05°.
ruclips.net/video/D7SPeMTwNn8/видео.html
You can't engage the saw fully plunged unless you're on some sacrificial material or something.
You'll either be off the track, or you'll be putting cantilever pressure on the track, no thanks.
It's literally called a plunge saw for a reason. If you want to engage the saw "pre-plunged" then use a circular saw with a guide. The reason we all bought tracksaws is because it's way more repeatably precise
Great video!
It would have made more sense for Makita to make a 60 inch track/rail instead of 55”.
For some reason on my Makita the arrow indicator dial to make 45 degree cuts will not line up to 45 when you switch the 45 degree toggle, it lines up under the 45 and is not true 45 or. The 48 is also off. If you do it manually 45 is 45, 48 is 48 and zero is zero. 🤔Any ideas?
Thank You👍🏻👍🏻
There is 60 inch track
@@danilovajagic1289 Where?? I've only seen the 39, 55 & 118" from makita
@@VONDOOM88 in uk
@@danilovajagic1289 Gotcha, in the US all I see is the ones I mentioned
There is a 75” too, and I’ve read of people buying the 118 and making a 60/58 set or whatever you need.
In all seriousness, I would actually fire him. He's getting the giggles like a kid for firing up a saw as a joke...
Good point I’ll fire him today. Who cares that he provides for his sick mom, if he’s offended a random stranger on the internet then he’s gone.
With this saw, dont draw the saw backwards. it will come back quickly and ruin the rail!
You draw any circular saw backwards while it's running and something going to get ruined.
He's doing a scoring cut which can be done backwards in wood but is not the way to cut the rubber strip
you really shouldn't start at the end of the rail when cutting the splinter guard, as the saw isnt fully on the saw, so wont be accurate at the end. Plus didnt see you tighten up the saw to the track with the 2 knobs. I always start with the saw fully on the track when cutting, and stop before the end, then to cut the ends attach another rail to be sure its accurate. Theres too much saw wobble otherwise, and at the end of the rail is where you need the accuracy! Just saying
You’re right. I was still learning when I replaced my guide strips I joined the tracks so I could trim the edge fully supported
@@DaileyWoodworks yeah I did exactly the same the first time, all part of the learning curve I guess! 👍🏻
Sounds great ... but what do you do if you don’t have another rail? I am ready to cut the splinter guard on my 55inch Makita track and was wondering about how to get the ends accurate.
Just yolo it
@@Zircon_215 Yes, I was wondering that too. Did you come up with a solution? thanks
I found my 1.5 m makita track out by 0.2mm when cutting from 90cm to 1.5m -
Did you cut your zero clearance rubber strip accurately? I just posted a reply dealing with problem of cutting the strip the way this video depicts.
@@Don-cs7fe yes, its the back length of the track, when you put it against 3 bench dogs at around 90cm from left to right the back will not touch the dog, tried it in different places on the mft table - same thing happens. i measured it but slipping standard A4 paper in between (2 sheets slide in)
@@ChristopherClaudioSkierka My guide rails are fine when I check with a one meter straight edge. I was talking about the actual base of saw & its small contact points with the channel it rides in the guide rail. If you try to trim the rubber zero clearance strip like the guy does in this video you will screw up the strip at both ends by 75 to 100mm.
@@Don-cs7fe yes it does happen. I have a 1.5m track, so the first 17cm and last 10 cm I do not use for that reason
@@Don-cs7fe Don, did you said you have a better way of cutting the strip? I just received a replacement for mine:)
We want to know how to actually use the saw! This clown is not showing anything that is useful like setup, etc.
all tracksaws on battery are a waste of more money you need to,think in a logical way. we are so happy to get rid of a cord, and in the end we attach a 50 mm dust collection hose on it,but the 5 mm cord is a problem..,(thats like saying,i want to get rid of a tree thats blocking my view,and right behind the tree stands a mega building.. now we have to manual switch on because we lose the auto function of the vacuum because of----> no cord..., and what do we invent for it, an expensive reciever that opperates with our batteries so it knows when to swich on the duscollection...now thats clever
NLDHGRockStaR you’re 85% correct. The other 15% is where cordless is a time saver and money maker.
@@DaileyWoodworks so 85% of the time i would be enoyed because of battery empty( and i know makita has exelent batteries but still ,a cord never goes empty ),switch dust collection on,etc, i get your point in some way, i do love cordless,and i have allot of makita cordless tools but i work almost daily with a tracksaw, and honestly i cant remember when the last time was i did'nt need a vacuum on it .
@@DaileyWoodworks If you NEED a cordless-
-working away from power and
-do not need extraction at that location or
also have a cordless vacuum
then buy one.
If not, buy corded (less cost, more power, always ready).
Simples.
(if you need and can afford a cordless extractor then you can probably afford a second tracksaw).