I just got back from a 4-day intensive photoshoot that involved dancing, moving subjects, kids and toddlers, wild animals, sports, a powwow and a parade. I used the tips explained in this video and the percentage of in-focus shots was probably double than what I am used to. Thank you Dan! The only problem is now I have to cull through twice as many images ;)
Daniel, thanks so much for your feedback!! I'm glad to hear that you found this video so helpful and that you've been able to increase your success rate with the camera. Would you mind letting me know which of these tips and techniques made the most difference for the subjects and scenes you captured during your recent photo shoot?
@@DanBaileyPhoto Probably using zone focus with AF-C was a big improvement for me. I had previously been using a large spot for AF-C. I also adjusted my AF-C mode based on the situation, which I had always previously left it at mode 1. I think there is also a phenomenon that has to do with confidence and success. When you're not having much success, you don't feel confident, and the cycle continues. But when you start to attain small successes, you get confident and your successes increase. I know that when I started to nail more and more shots, I felt like a million bucks, and that confidence allowed me to shoot even better. Thank you again!
Thanks so much for the comment!!! 👍 That's a shot from one of our Anchorage cyclocross races that took place on year in early October. I remember that one well, it was an awesome race to photograph!
I've been shooting Fujifilm professionally for over 10 years. I'm not a sports or action photographer, but I am often frustrated by the autofocus settings for fast moving subjects. This is one of the best videos I've ever seen on the subject.
Hey Daniel, thanks so much for your comment. I'm glad you found this to be a helpful tutorial. If you'd like more FUJIFILM auto focus tips, I have a brand new online course that covers the entire system. You can find out here: courses.danbaileyphoto.com/p/mastering-the-fujifilm-autofocus-system What Fuji do you use and what do you like to photograph?
Awesome. The X-T3 is a great camera. That was the first model to feature PRE-SHOT ES, which is one of the most powerful settings for shooting fast action! Have you tried using that setting?
XT-30 . I document our lifes. I love Fuji's 16mm 2.8 / it's SHARP ... creates bokeh even at 3.6f . Captures the scene . And I can capture CANDID moments while inches away from folks around me. I'll throw in a few 35mm 2.0f for close ups... since both lenses are small and light - I can have them in a very small camera 📷 bag. XT30 is super small too. I usually fiddle with it for a bit. Take test pix of spoons or flowers, etc. To get folks used to me . Before I snap candid pix. My favorite: rule of 3rds & leading lines & shooting through something (* like someone's silhouette) or a party decoration
Mario, sounds like you keep yourself busy with your camera! 😀 And yes, the 16 f/2.8 is an exceptionally sharp lens. Keep up the good work and keep having lots of fun with your super lightweight Fuji kit!
Great topic Dan, I graduated from Landscapes, now to wildlife with our local naturalist club wanting more of the perfect shot of moving birds. I have found the zone setting and tracking custom setting 4 on my Xt-3 gives me a better chance for keepers. Thanks for teaching us newbies with your years of experience. The best part of my end of every month is reading your blog and practical tips on an enjoyable pastime.
Allan, thanks for the comment, I’m glad you found this to be a helpful lesson. Indeed, for shooting birds, AF C.S. #4 on the Fuji would be my first choice setting as well. Appreciate the feedback, it’s great to hear that you enjoy reading my blog and newsletters! Take care and happy winter!
@@DanBaileyPhoto Hello. I am now 62 and first picked up my father’s 35mm Yashica when I was about 6. I suppose I have photographed all there is between then and now using a huge range of equipment. I became very familiar with Canon equipment and got to the stage where I was able to use it without even thinking about what I was doing. A few years ago I had a couple of heart attacks and found I needed to downsize. I bought into Micro 4/3. I was actually able to get a lot of pleasure out of that system in the sense of being able to produce decent images. It never, however, became 2nd nature for me to use and I always had to think about what I was doing whereas with the Canon equipment everything was instant. Thanks to the pharmaceutical industry by health improved and I thought I could cope with something a little heavier and so I invested in Fujifilm. I really enjoy the tactile experience because it takes me back to golden days of the likes of Cano AE1, Pentax ME Super and Olympus OM 2 Spot. I have tried out several Fuji lenses and at the moment I’m really enjoying 10-24, 16-55 and 50-140 with and without converters. I’m also using the amazing Ricoh GRiii. The only downside is that it’s not weather sealed - but you can’t have everything! I have just downloaded your excellent book and was interested to see the number of photographs you have taken in Scotland where I live. Thanks for all your help, Donald
Hey Donald, thanks for sharing your story. You're going to love my latest video I just uploaded today, as it includes even more photos of Scotland! What part of that incredible country do you call home?
@@DanBaileyPhoto Hi Dan, I got permission to photograph a local amateur rugby team, they played the first match of this season two weeks ago. Whilst I was pleased with my first attempt, I know that I can improve. The next match is on Saturday, if it goes ahead, so I'll be there, using some of your tips, and hopefully getting decent images. Regards, Jim.
Useful info, Dan. I can totally attest to “Okay, last shot” ... .Then ten seconds later, without any hint of shame, “Okay, let’s do that again. Just one more time”. I think I must say it every shoot 😂
DAn I shoot Nikon’s D3s, D850 & D610, I enjoy using vintage lenses with the Nikon 135mm f2 DC Prime a rather older lens. It is tack sharp lens f4, f5.6, 70-200mm f2.8, 85mm f1.8 I, 24-85mm are lenses i use majority of time. I also have vintage 28mm & 35mm primes, enjoy Portraiture, Landscapes, High School Action Sports. Thanks again for your excellent Video.
You're welcome. Modern cameras are very capable, but not infallible. I hope these tips help you increase your success rate, especially in tricky situations.
Hey Derek, thanks for your comment! Yes, it doesn't matter what kinds of subject you're photographing, these are factors that all action shooters face! What camera system do you use?
I use Canon 1dx Mark iii and Nikon D5 and D6 cameras. I also bring my film cameras & film with me just to keep my manual focusing skills up to spec. I try to break down my photos like a 36 roll film.
Cool. Focusing is perhaps the hardest skill to master in photography. Nothing beats a solid fundamental history and lots of experience shooting with different cameras and subject matter.
@@DanBaileyPhoto I come from a film and manual lens background with my Canon AE 1 and Nikon FM to Leica M6 cameras. My Canon AE1 and Leica M6 were stolen from my home. Always a bunch of film in my fridge and get developed and compare to my Canon 1dx Mark iii and Nikon D5 and D6 cameras. I have to say I prefer the film prints more than the current digital
I hear that from some people. There is something to that, though. Film was so imperfect and "representational", whereas digital is so perfect. The style and imperfect look of film inspires a different type of visual and emotional response, because it invites us to use our imagination when viewing the image. A perfect photo offers less room for imagination and emotional introspection, because it's already delivered everything.
@@DanBaileyPhoto I agree as it’s the same with say a CD version of say Jean Michael Jarre albums on vinyl and digital there’s a difference as the top and bottom end on the sound wave is “clipped” so the bass sound doesn’t sound as dynamic. same for me with digital the essence is removed .
@@DanBaileyPhoto I shoot stills and video of squash in New York City. And I am in the midst of a long-term project on alternate forms of transportation (scooters, skateboards, motorized scooters, motorized skateboards, one wheels, bicycles, rollerblades, etc. in urban areas.
Cool. That sounds like a great project, especially given the current situation. I usually come to NYC every fall, but I missed it this year for the first time in almost ten years. ☹️
Good point. Although with today's faster processors, this isn't as much an issue as it was a few years ago, especially if you're shooting JPEG. When shooting RAW, it's camera dependent, but again, with most higher end models, that number is pretty high.
Thanks for your comment, I’m glad you found this helpful. These tips shoot definitely help you get better results with BIF. I made this video with that kind of photography in mind, because that can be a very demanding type of subject to capture. It often the requires the highest level of technique, and some photographers don’t quite understand that in addition to a good camera, they need to pay attention to these other factors. Good luck, let me know how it goes after you’ve had a chance to practice some of these tips!
Excellent video Dan! Just got an X-T4 and 70-300 and it's an awesome combo. I used zone autofocus for BIF the other day and i was super happy with the results! I'm going to be doing surf videos for clients soon and single point was recommended for that which i can definitely see myself using. I almost always use zone for sports/action/wildlife photography, but i would love to know what AF mode you use for video. Thanks dude!
Thanks very much for your comment! Yes, the X-T4 and XF70-300 + 1.4x TC is an excellent combo indeed. Although the 70-300 isn't one of the red badge zooms, I've been pleasantly surprised at how well it tracks fast subjects, including birds, providing you've got decent light. Regarding autofocus for video, it's a little different when you're shooting in Movie mode. on the Fujis, you have Multi and Area. Multi lets you position the focus box manually inside the frame, while Area lets the camera choose the subject automatically. You still have AF-S, AF-C and Manual focus. So, for surf videos, it would be good to do some tests and see how well the camera can pick up the surfer automatically in Area mode. If you find that it's not always accurate, then you might switch to Multi. One thing to note, once you start shooting, you can not reposition the AF box in the frame using the joystick, but you can move it while filming by using the touchscreen. Tap the little touch box in the upper right of the LCD until it says AF AREA. Then you can touch and drag your finger around the frame to reposition the AF box if your subject moves. With either method, I would use AF-C mode, because you'll be tracking moving subjects. Hope that helps! BTW, I have a new online course that covers the entire Fuijfilm AF system. You can find it here: courses.danbaileyphoto.com/p/mastering-the-fujifilm-autofocus-system
@@DanBaileyPhoto thanks for taking your time to do such a detailed answer, it's really appreciated 👍. As you suggested, I'll test things out and going to the skatepark tomorrow will probably give me good practice because that'll be faster and more challenging compared to surfing. It would be great if surfers would like to do photo sessions because I think I've pretty much figured out sports/action/wildlife for photography, but they prefer videos in order to study their techniques which I understand (being a surfer myself). In any case, it'll be a fun challenge and the X-T4 has incredible video quality as it does stills. In my opinion, it's a true hybrid masterpiece.
You're most welcome! Glad to help. Yes, practice is everything. That's what makes you better at this. And you're right about the X-T4, it is a highly capable camera. I bought a cage, handle and Atomos monitor, and turned mine into a full-time video camera. Been having lots of fun with it. Anyway, keep up the good work, and keep having fun with your Fuji! And let me know how your surfing videos come out.
Hi, thanks for your comment! I occasionally use fill flash for shots like this, where I'm dealing with dim light in the forest. However, the photo examples in this video were shot without flash. They're straight exposures out of my Fujifilm camera.
Im def the weak link.. lol Great video. I have a old weak camera nikon d5100 the lens I use goes up to 200mm . When I first got it I took great sports pictures. After years of not using it for some reason idk what is going on. I try a,s,p,m modes and also the sports mode. I tried everything and I'm struggling. It's my sons last year of basketball and then baseball and I want to make photo books for him and a couple of his friends. Buy... my basketball pics are just blurry or noisy..
Hi Stephanie. Yes, we're all the weak link when it comes to technology and autofocus. As I said, that's one of, if not the hardest skills to master in photography, and it takes a lot of practice. I don't know exactly what the issue might be with your camera setup, but I hope that some of the tips in my video help.
Dan Bailey I began learning photography in sep 2018, wanted to do MTB - Downhill and trailbiking photography mainly. Bought a X-T3, some glass: 10-24, 35mmf2, 50-140 and 100-400. Also bought your ’outdoor action and adventure’ and ’Fujifilm X-series unlimited’ -books. Sooo mainly shooting people riding bikes, my running wife and landcape... Practising a bit on Birds in flight (swans mainly)since they are easy to find - not easy to photograph though:)
Hi Dan great video lesson I couldn't agree with you more on the Tips that you have discussed, I recon I go through this process every time I go out to shoot. I have no doubt that my Fuji kit including a recent purchase of the 100 - 400mm zoom helps me get more keepers than not but never 100% ever! Keep up the good work. Husky racing season has now kicked off here in the UK no snow but plenty of mud!! so I'm busy most weekends.
Hi Chris, thanks for commenting. Sounds like you've got a good AF workflow going and you defiantly have some good gear! That 100-400 is a fantastic lens for shooting action, it has an incredibly fast AF motor. Best of luck shooing huskies this winter, let me know how it goes!
@@DanBaileyPhoto Hi Dan, thanks I was very pleased with the 100-400mm first time out using it seems even quicker than the 50-140mm 2.8 just need good light to get the best results. Will send you a couple of decent images in due course. Best wishes for the Christmas season.
Thank you Dan for these tips. Although I already know these points, I don't always put them to use. It's good to have someone remind me to be more patient and put into practice the tips you mentioned. I too shoot with the XT-3.
Hi John, thanks for the comment. Yes, practice and patience are definitely the key to becoming a more proficient shooter, especially with the technical stuff. What kinds of action do you like to shoot?
@@johnzimmerman9624 BIF can definitely be very challenging, but I as I said, it's often because we expect too much from the gear in very dim and challenging environments.
@@DanBaileyPhoto I was using the Canon 1Dx Mark II before switching to Fuji over 2 years ago. I was hoping by now that I would be close to my success rate using Fuji. It has improved but there are still times where the camera hunts for focus in good lighting conditions.
Damn! Now you've bin & gone & told 'em all how it's done 😤 I just wish I'd found this tutorial three years ago - It's probably taken me that long to work most of this out by trial & error. My passion is surfing photography, with a bit of mtb & trials thrown in as & when, and everything you say here is bang on point; partickly with surfing, it's imperative to read body language & use that to lock focus/tracking early. When there's a LOT of white water flying all round the subject I generally use a largish single green square for focus & Custom setting #2 to keep focus on the guy throughout the moves.
Yea Peter, I gave away all of our secrets and now everyone knows exactly how to be great action shooter!!! Now they just needs to add in the years and years of practice, and they'll be all set!! 🤣. Anyway, glad you found this helpful. It's one of the lessons I cover in my new Fujifilm autofocus course. courses.danbaileyphoto.com/p/mastering-the-fujifilm-autofocus-system Reading body language is an excellent method to help anticipate the action and help you figure out where to start tracking the subject. Which camera/lens setup are you current using to shoot action?
Depth of field and blurry/sharp backgrounds are affected by the following elements: Lens focal length, distance from camera to the subject, distance from subject to background, and your f/stop setting. Shooting with a longer lens, being closer to your subject, against a more distant background, and shooting with a smaller number f/stop, or using any combination of these factors will create more blurry, out of focus backgrounds. What lens and exposure settings are you typically using, and what type of action are you shooting?
Hey Peter, thanks for your comment. Yes, it’s easy so easy for us to blame the gear, especially when we’re trying to use it to its full potential in very demanding situations. What kinds of action do you like to shoot?
@@DanBaileyPhoto I am currently (trying) to shoot birds at our local nature reserve. I have a copy of X Series Unlimited which is really interesting and helpful.
Awesome. So glad you're finding it to be a helpful resource. Bird photography is a channeling genre indeed, but it will definitely test your skills and help you improve, especially if you follow the tips in this video! Where do you like to photograph birds?
Thanks, Chuck! If your camera has any kind of autofocus or AF-C custom settings menu, then I would play around with that. This kind of feature allows you to tweak the autofocus to better track more erratically moving subjects. If you don't have anything like that on your camera, then you need to resort to techniques like anticipating you subject movement/position, waiting for the right moment, using very fast frame rates and shooting short bursts, and also using the right AF mode or pattern. Which camera are you using?
Yes, absolutely. PRE-SHOT ES is a highly useful tool for photographing fast moving subjects. I use it quite often when I'm shooting action. Which camera are you currently using?
Hey Monika, that's awesome! I'm glad you were able to get a few tips from my video, I hope they help you in your shoot. What will you be photogrpahing?
@@DanBaileyPhoto I’ve been shooting a lot of CrossFit, I just got into this on a whim. I saw a need have alway been creative so I went for it, ended up scoring my first subscription job with an area gym. Super excited. I’ve been shooting a Sony mirrorless a7ii. 33mm 1.4. Do you have any suggestions next step up lens on a budget? Like a Sony - E 50mm F1.8 OSS? @danthesavageproject On Instagram
That sounds like a good project, and I'm sure there are lots of great althetic/motion subjects to capture. Regarding the Sony system, I don't really know anything about their lens line, but a 50mm f1.8 would be great fast normal lens for shooting that kinds of stuff. The relatively narrow focal length and fast aperture will work very well for isolating subjects inside with shallow focus. It's probably an ideal lens for shooting inside the gym.
If possible, don't push the aperture to the extremes to get a slightly greater DOF. For af in general, calibrate / micro adjust your lens. Sports generally ask for a longer lens. Small differences can have a great impact.
Indeed. Very good insight. I remember, even in my early years shooting action, I would often shoot my 2.8 lens at around f 3.5, just to get that little bit of extra sharpness in my images.
@@DanBaileyPhoto I've been shooting my dog! It's quite challenging to get sharp photos all the time. I tap my finger on the LCD to set the focus point and then wish for the best. Both my dog and I need more training😆
@@DanBaileyPhoto maybe political events, rallies etc. I participated in some in my country recently. But I have strange issue with shutter button and it's yet to be resolved, sometimes shutter button simply doesn't work, asking like for more pressure than usual (it set to release priority, and I've read that it maybe somehow have to do with flicker reduction option).
Not sure if my alservo is working.I have it switched on and my lens sounds like it is trying to focus.My focus points do not light up or beep when i half hold down the shutter button.Please give me some advise thanks
Alan, I'm sorry, I don't have any experience with Canon DSLR autofocus. I would post this question on a dedicated Canon forum and see if you can get an answer, or else contact Canon support.
@@jucktkeinen9342 People always like having cool action photos shot of them, don't they? And it's pretty satisfying when you're able to get these "hero shots" of your friends and family!
Hi Dan! Thanks for the video! I am shooting a disc dog competition tomorrow and want to try something different, and create a multiple exposure of the dog spinning and catching the frisbee. Do you have any thoughts what shutter speed might be best when trying a multi exposure? I imagine I need at least 1/1000 second to freeze the action and capture multiple photos. Have you experimented with this and do you have any suggestions of slower shutter speeds for this? Jeff Cable has an Olympic fencing shot (that perhaps you have seen) and I wanted to try to mimic that with the dog. Would panning also be required for the dog or just fast shutting and multi? Sorry for the barrage of questions, thank you!! I use the canon system.
Hi Gary, I just looked at that Jeff Cable photo. Pretty cool image! Here's his own blog post where he talks about how he shot those Olympic fencing photos: blog.jeffcable.com/2016/08/photographing-fencing-and-getting-shot.html His faster shots were captured at 1/1250 second shutter speed, so yes, I'd try to stay around 1/1000 sec for nice, crisp, frozen action. For his multiple exposure montage shots, it looks like he stayed pretty high with the shutter speed. While the multiple exposures give the feeling of fast, flurried motion, you can see that each individual shot is still very sharp. Otherwise, I think the whole sequence would devolve into a blurry mess. Also, with some of his shots, there is a blurry "multiple" background, so perhaps he was experimenting with slight panning and slower shutter speeds. However, for his "winning" shot, it looks like the rest of the frame is static and quiet sharp, so that would indicate a fast shutter speed. This effect produces a nice contrast that helps anchor down the implied motion with a static foreground. I have not tried this kind of technique but it looks pretty fun. Good luck and let me know how it goes with the dog competition!
@@DanBaileyPhoto thanks Dan!! I appreciate it and I didn’t know he blogged about it. I will check into it. I’ll try to get the “safe shots” first and see if I can experiment after. People love their dogs and it can be a lot of fun to photograph the action. I usually photograph birds mostly but a lot of the same techniques apply. I will get back to you after I give this a try. Thanks again, friend! Gary
@@DanBaileyPhoto it’s a ton of fun! I’ve never photographed teenager athletes or people, and would love to get into that someday. Dogs are a lot of fun too. You should see what a top shape border collie can do in Flyball. They are bullets!!
@@DanBaileyPhoto I'm mostly shooting my family at soccer or on their bikes. I'm also really loving a bit of nature. I'd love to be on the sidelines at the big events doing it, however I'm usually there already with a video camera on my shoulder. Photography is definitely becoming much more fun for me, and I can see myself doing more in this field.
@@DanBaileyPhoto I took a lot of shots at football matches when my son was playing, until he was 18 years old. Now for five years he has been practicing the box and I keep shooting... Mine is just passion, I'm not professional. I'm in love with photography. thank you for your teaching with your videos! 👏💪
Really nice to hear from a fuji user; sometimes things don't translate from brand to brand, thanks, Dan! I had a question for you: I've been trying to capture some dogs at the dog park leaping for balls and frisbees using the kit lens 18-55mm. I've tried a few of the AF settings like you suggested but crisp photos are rare. When I am tracking the dog, do I need to press the focus button (does it matter if it's half-pressed shutter or back button?) just once or hold it the entire time from beginning of tracking to when the shutter snaps?
Hi there! Thanks for the comment! For shooting leaping dogs, I would put the Fuji on Zone AF and set a pretty large focus area box. Make sure the AF switch on the front is set to AF-C, and set the mode dial to CH. Then press and hold the shutter button at HALF PRESS while you follow the action, ideally a few moments before the moment when you think the peak will happen. As you get closer to that moment, FULLY PRESS and hold the shutter down and capture a burst right around when that peak moment happens. In other words hold half press from beginning of the tracking, and then hold at full press as you start actually capturing frames. Hope that helps. One thing that may be affecting things, the 18-55 doesn't have the fastest AF motor. It's a good lens, and you can still capture action with it, but you just to refine your technique and do lots of practice with the specific action that you're shooting, so that you can better anticipate the moment. Also, make sure you're shooting a high enough shutter speed. What Fuji are you using? Depending on the model, there's another really helpful trick you may be able to try if you have one of the newer cameras.
@@DanBaileyPhoto I'm shooting on the xt20 I was hoping to pick up a new lens soon. I like the viltrox 85mm 1.8, but I would also like something for sports and pet-action like the fuji 55-200. I'd really like the 100-400 you recommended on your channel, but that's a little too pricy, haha. Thanks for the tips, I'm gonna keep trying until I get something I'm proud of!
I have the 55-200, it has decent autofocus, but I would recommend looking at the new 70-300. It's nearly identical in size and design, but with a slightly longer focal length and updated optics and stabilization. I've been very impressed with that lens. The 100-400 is an amazing sports/action lens, but yes, it is a bit pricy, and definitely bigger and heavier. If you don't mind primes, the 90mm has amazingly sharp autofocus. With it's quad linear motor, it's one of the fastest AF and sharpest lenses in the line. And the 50-140 is always a rock solid high performer for shooting action.
John, we have a great CX series here in Anchorage every fall. Great courses, and an awesome group of racers. I usually shoot the first couple races and then race with the open men and Master 40+ wave. Been doing that for the past 11 years. Do you shoot cyclocross?
@@DanBaileyPhoto I have in the past. Bubblecross in West Milford NJ. I tried a CycleCross training camp one year and realized how much out of shape I'm in. It's one of the hardest things I have ever done, and I'm a 20 year now retired firefighter!
Indeed!! Cyclocross is without a doubt one of the hardest, most demanding activities you can subject yourself to. I race mountain bikes and occasionally do long gravel bike races, and CX is WAY harder. It's basically an hour long heart attack at full exertion. And it's so awesome!!! 😀💥
Haha! I love my Walz wool cycling caps! I think they look great on my me, but I guess that’s all a matter of opinion. 😂 Actually, one reason I wear them in my videos is because it can sometimes be very hard to “key” out my thinning hair on the top of my head against the green screen. The cap gives me a much smoother line, which means less work in post and no weird visual artifacts. Anyway, I’m glad to hear that you’re finding my videos to be so helpful. What camera fo you use and what kinds of subjects do you like to shoot?
@@DanBaileyPhoto Ah! I see :-) It's hard to see what would work better - perhaps you should try diferent hats on different videos - you could turn into an influencer for the hat industry :-) I have the X Pro-2, the X A5, and a Panasonic travel zoom, taking mainly travel, architectural, and, when the lockdown lifts, some landscape. I've got pics at www.flickr.com/photos/digicanon/ - digicanon because I used a Canon DSLR before switching to Fuji. Also some on 500px - 500px.com/p/tomwilson?view=photos
Haha!! I actually have about 7 or 8 different Walz caps, but this new brown tweed one is my favorite these days. They're the only caps that give me a good fit on my pinhead and I dig the style. Maybe Walz can sponsor me! 🤣 Nice variety of subjects your feeds, Tom. I'm really looking forwards to making it back to the UK when things settle down again. Haven't been to the Peak District yet, I guess I should put that on my list!
@@DanBaileyPhoto Had snow on the lawn this morning, so I guess it will be deeper in the Peak District - which is just on my doorstep, well, about 15 mins drive away, so if you do get back to the UK at any time, let me know :-)
@@WillColavito Then you know just how challenging it can be! An evening game, played under the lights can be a very difficult situation for capturing good action scenes. I hope these tips help you get great results.
Excellent question, Sebastian! It's because with subjects moving towards you, the camera has to use predictive algorithms that compensate for the inherent lag time between when it locks on the subject and when you actually press the shutter. There's always a delay. Essentially, it has to determine where it thinks the subject will be, which is different than where it is in the exact moment it's locked in focus, and then it has to communicate all this to the lens and tell it to move back/forth accordingly, to compensate for the changes in relative distance. With subjects that are moving perpendicular to your camera position, there are much lower relative distance changes between each frame, and so the camera and lens don't have to work quite as hard.
@@DanBaileyPhoto gotcha, so in short, the plane of focus is constantly changing as subject approaches you whereas with a perpendicular tracking the subject is moving across the same plane?
Yes, that's correct. With a subject that moves across your field of view, the plane of focus does change, but must less radically. With subjects that are moving towards or away from you, the focus distance is constantly changing, and so that camera is constantly trying to evaluate and keep up.
Some things I learned from photoing my first running event this past Saturday, Ghost of Seattle half and full marathon and 50k around Lake Washington and Seward Park in Seattle. I was able to capture some great photos but missed a number of them as well. I cannot be in three places at once. Pick a spot and basically wait for the runners to come by. Either a picturesque spot on the course or the start finish line. I was not able to scope out a spot the day before so spent the first hour spot hunting as well as tweaking camera settings and as the sun rose it changed my locations as the lightening became not as flattering as other locations. I settled on finish line but missed some of the runners by the time I got back there. I did get nice photos at all my spots though but the cost was missing many runners. I used X-T2 with 90mm. I was able to get them from a bit of a distance coming towards me then panning across in front of me. The 90 was great but the photo closest to me, their faces ended up bit physically flat looking. Using a telephoto up close I suppose? In hindsight the 56mm might have been the better choice and woulda had the extra stops of light for pre-sunrise photos as well. I am looking forward to trying this again with new found knowledge. Thanks Dan for this video and all your videos!
Quinn, thanks for the comment. As you learned, events can be a great way to practice this style of photography, but it can also be challenging with regards to finding the right vantage point. And as you say, you can’t be in three spots at once, so that’s where scouting, or at least knowing the course can make a big difference. With regards to lenses, yes, the 90mm would compress your faces a bit more up close, but it has a much faster AF motor than the Fuji 56mm lens, so in most cases, I would opt for the 90 when shooting action and fast moving subjects. Maybe try grabbing your shots a little further away so you don’t get as much compression. The extra stop could be nice, but the ISO performance on the Fuji is so good, that unless you really need the extra light, I would say that you won’t lose much quality by just cranking up the ISO setting a little bit to make up for that extra stop. At any rate, keep practicing and experiencing with different lenses, framing and vantage points. 👍
@@DanBaileyPhoto hmm yeah I did not think of that, the 56mm being a slower focusing lens. I just picked up the 56mm a month ago. The 90mm was for the most part pretty darn perfect. However if I was to regularly photo running events I would get the 50-140mm (currently own the 16mm 1.4, 35mm f2, 56mm, 90mm). thanks
Slow to the party here. If you want to improve focusing while balancing exposure, aperture while capturing the shot, try night street photography in urban settings. The action breaks faster than you think, subjects move from dark to light, they will be in and out of focus, the whole shebang.
Thanks for your comment. What you describe is certainly a very challenging type of situation, given that AF success depends largely on available light and contrast. Shooting and problem solving in that type of environment would absolutely help you increase your AF skills! What kind of camera system do you typically use?
@leyPhoto This will be a touch long winded. I started street photography with a Rebel camera (Canon) but moved to the Canon 5D mk 2, then the Canon 5D mk4. I have a Canon 35mm f2 but prefered using my Sigma 50mm f1.4 for night street photography for that extra light speed boost. I don't have to tell you, sometimes one stop is a big difference in low light. I then bounced to a Fuji X100F, the poor man's Leica for night street work. I liked the smaller profile and less visibility (black model) when shooting in some less than safe locations. I use the Peak Design cuff strap so that if my camera is stolen the thief will have to drag me along. For night work, AUTO ISO is your friend and something that is new for me, I'll fire off more than one photo, kind of like bird photography to ensure at least one decent image. I shoot in AF-S and zone mode. I have also started using the in camera TC 50mm with the X100F. The manual focus ring on the X100F is sensitive so it can be unreliable and accidentally shift while walking and not shooting. I don't use the AF-MF mode, only AF. If I can, I'll prefocus, and half press the shutter as the subject walks into the focus zone. The shutter is set and the aperture is set. I am usually adjusting the aperture if I need to make adjustments. This is all happening often in one second.
Sounds like you've developed a good system over the years! If you're interested, I have an entire online course that's geared around the Fujifilm AF system. You can find it here: courses.danbaileyphoto.com/p/mastering-the-fujifilm-autofocus-system
Kerry, you can see a text version of this lesson on my blog here: danbaileyphoto.com/blog/10-essential-autofocus-tips-for-sports-action-photography/ Let me know if you have any questions about any of these tips.
If you never used a camera, perhaps this is a good insight. However it is SO "Generalised" that it offers nothing for someone interested in sports photography. Talk about specific settings, iso actual focusing choices, perhaps in scenarios. This seems like a video to just fill a youtube slot and get views but otherwise I find this gives me nothing to use when clearly you have a lot of knowledge.
Hi Benny, thanks for your comment. The reason I created this lesson, and why I think it’s actually a very important topic, is because I see a lot of photographers complain that their AF isn’t performing up to task, without paying attention to these very fundamental aspects. In many cases, people don’t take these things into consideration, and then wonder why they’re not getting sharp images. Consequently, they blame the gear, instead of recognizing that they might have expected too much from it in that particular situation, or that they didn’t use the right AF pattern or mode. Perhaps they were trying to capture very fast action in low light against a very busy background. That’s a difficult shit for any photographer to make with any camera. I do have a lot of situational examples on my blog and in my ebooks, but I posted this video because it’s a broad message that I feel all action photographers need to know. If you already have a good handle on these 10 things, then that’s great. You’re far ahead of most people. After that, it’s about practice until all this stuff becomes second nature. What kinds of action do you like to shoot?
@@DanBaileyPhoto Thank you for your reply Dan, very valid!. I have lacked in sporting a bit, but when asked i find i struggle to get my singular focusing square to the moving head. Like if running right i don't want to shoot with their eyes facing right and have that negative space on the rest of the frame. A few ppl use Back focus, but then there is also the sports modes in Canon 5D mkiv, which have the little icons of cyclists, soccer etc but i do not understand between them, my choice of focusing square (manual) and back or button focusing what I should do to be ready for each moment, i always feel i am chasing the person. Rugby is the general thing but not for a while thanks to covid!.. You speak really well, appreciate your time, Cheers, Ben.
Benny, not being a Canon user, I don't know what those icons do, but I am generally not a proponent of back button focus. I know a lot of DSLR shooters prefer that method, but being an action shooter for over 20 years, I just don't see the point in adding another finger into the equation. It just complicates things. You can accomplish the same thing with shutter-activated focus tracking. As for getting the little AF box on the subject in just the right placement in the frame... again this is what I was referring to. AF and shooting action is the hardest skill in photography, and it takes lots of practice. Tracking subjects side to side is always very challenging. Not knowing your Canon AF layout, I would advise trying out some of the different AF patterns and using one of the tracking modes. You might even try using Face Detection AF.
Dan, if I might make a suggestion: It is clear that you REALLY know your subject matter, however, I believe it may be more entertaining to your audience if you would slow down your speech pattern just a bit. Your videos are packed with useful information but you are talking so fast it’s hard to keep up. - Bill
Thanks, William. Yes, I get pretty excited about this stuff, and I know I can sometimes talk pretty fast. Rest assured, this is something I’m working on. 👍 Appreciate the feedback.
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I just got back from a 4-day intensive photoshoot that involved dancing, moving subjects, kids and toddlers, wild animals, sports, a powwow and a parade. I used the tips explained in this video and the percentage of in-focus shots was probably double than what I am used to. Thank you Dan! The only problem is now I have to cull through twice as many images ;)
Daniel, thanks so much for your feedback!! I'm glad to hear that you found this video so helpful and that you've been able to increase your success rate with the camera. Would you mind letting me know which of these tips and techniques made the most difference for the subjects and scenes you captured during your recent photo shoot?
@@DanBaileyPhoto Probably using zone focus with AF-C was a big improvement for me. I had previously been using a large spot for AF-C. I also adjusted my AF-C mode based on the situation, which I had always previously left it at mode 1.
I think there is also a phenomenon that has to do with confidence and success. When you're not having much success, you don't feel confident, and the cycle continues. But when you start to attain small successes, you get confident and your successes increase. I know that when I started to nail more and more shots, I felt like a million bucks, and that confidence allowed me to shoot even better.
Thank you again!
@@danielsullivan4360well said ❤
Not sure I've ever complimented someone on their background but that MTB photo in the snowy Aspen trees is gorgeous.
Thanks so much for the comment!!! 👍 That's a shot from one of our Anchorage cyclocross races that took place on year in early October. I remember that one well, it was an awesome race to photograph!
Thanks Dan. Always like to be reminded of the basics. Have a great holiday.
Thanks, Bruce. Happy holidays to you as well!!
I've been shooting Fujifilm professionally for over 10 years. I'm not a sports or action photographer, but I am often frustrated by the autofocus settings for fast moving subjects. This is one of the best videos I've ever seen on the subject.
Hey Daniel, thanks so much for your comment. I'm glad you found this to be a helpful tutorial. If you'd like more FUJIFILM auto focus tips, I have a brand new online course that covers the entire system. You can find out here: courses.danbaileyphoto.com/p/mastering-the-fujifilm-autofocus-system
What Fuji do you use and what do you like to photograph?
@@DanBaileyPhoto I shoot with a pair of xt3s, and I little bit of everything. Mostly commercial and editorial.
Awesome. The X-T3 is a great camera. That was the first model to feature PRE-SHOT ES, which is one of the most powerful settings for shooting fast action! Have you tried using that setting?
@@DanBaileyPhoto I had never heard of it, but a quick Google search and your site came up first!
Cool! I hope you're able to try that setting out soon. Let me know if you have any questions about how it works.
Love you Videos ❗️. You got me beinge watching 👀 you... THANKS 😁😃 for these quirks and How To's for Fuji
Thanks, Mario! 😀Glad you like them! What Fuji do you use and what do you like to photograph?
XT-30 . I document our lifes. I love Fuji's 16mm 2.8 / it's SHARP ... creates bokeh even at 3.6f . Captures the scene . And I can capture CANDID moments while inches away from folks around me. I'll throw in a few 35mm 2.0f for close ups... since both lenses are small and light - I can have them in a very small camera 📷 bag. XT30 is super small too. I usually fiddle with it for a bit. Take test pix of spoons or flowers, etc. To get folks used to me . Before I snap candid pix. My favorite: rule of 3rds & leading lines & shooting through something (* like someone's silhouette) or a party decoration
Mario, sounds like you keep yourself busy with your camera! 😀 And yes, the 16 f/2.8 is an exceptionally sharp lens. Keep up the good work and keep having lots of fun with your super lightweight Fuji kit!
Great topic Dan, I graduated from Landscapes, now to wildlife with our local naturalist club wanting more of the perfect shot of moving birds. I have found the zone setting and tracking custom setting 4 on my Xt-3 gives me a better chance for keepers. Thanks for teaching us newbies with your years of experience. The best part of my end of every month is reading your blog and practical tips on an enjoyable pastime.
Allan, thanks for the comment, I’m glad you found this to be a helpful lesson. Indeed, for shooting birds, AF C.S. #4 on the Fuji would be my first choice setting as well. Appreciate the feedback, it’s great to hear that you enjoy reading my blog and newsletters! Take care and happy winter!
This has to be one of the most useful videos I have ever watched. I have learned so much in the past 15 minutes! Thank you.
Hey Donald, thanks so much for your comment. I'm glad you found this to be so helpful! What kinds of subjects do you like to photograph?
@@DanBaileyPhoto Hello. I am now 62 and first picked up my father’s 35mm Yashica when I was about 6. I suppose I have photographed all there is between then and now using a huge range of equipment. I became very familiar with Canon equipment and got to the stage where I was able to use it without even thinking about what I was doing. A few years ago I had a couple of heart attacks and found I needed to downsize. I bought into Micro 4/3. I was actually able to get a lot of pleasure out of that system in the sense of being able to produce decent images. It never, however, became 2nd nature for me to use and I always had to think about what I was doing whereas with the Canon equipment everything was instant. Thanks to the pharmaceutical industry by health improved and I thought I could cope with something a little heavier and so I invested in Fujifilm. I really enjoy the tactile experience because it takes me back to golden days of the likes of Cano AE1, Pentax ME Super and Olympus OM 2 Spot. I have tried out several Fuji lenses and at the moment I’m really enjoying 10-24, 16-55 and 50-140 with and without converters. I’m also using the amazing Ricoh GRiii. The only downside is that it’s not weather sealed - but you can’t have everything! I have just downloaded your excellent book and was interested to see the number of photographs you have taken in Scotland where I live. Thanks for all your help, Donald
Hey Donald, thanks for sharing your story. You're going to love my latest video I just uploaded today, as it includes even more photos of Scotland! What part of that incredible country do you call home?
@@DanBaileyPhoto I did love it. You passed within a couple of miles of my house when you crossed the Tay by train! It's such a small world.
@@donaldpirie5485 Small world indeed! That would have been on our way to/from Edinburgh, right?
Dan Another great video, Thanks for all of the gread tips .
Hey Andy, thanks for your comment. Glad you found this one helpful! What kinds of action do you like to shoot?
@@DanBaileyPhoto All sports Just going to shoot The Canada Games Rugby Golf Track Baseball swimming Diving Triathlon I love your work
Cool! That sounds like a fun even to shoot, with a very diverse selection of action types. Have fun and good luck!
super helpful. thank you for the effort and the sharing. thumbs up.
Thanks! I'm glad you found this to be a helpful tutorial. What kinds of action do you like to shoot?
Brilliant stuff! Straight forward, no nonsense tips. Everyone of them useful and informative.
Thanks James, I'm glad you found this to be a helpful lesson. What do you like to photograph?
@@DanBaileyPhoto Hi Dan, I got permission to photograph a local amateur rugby team, they played the first match of this season two weeks ago. Whilst I was pleased with my first attempt, I know that I can improve. The next match is on Saturday, if it goes ahead, so I'll be there, using some of your tips, and hopefully getting decent images. Regards, Jim.
@@jamesgaffigan2288 Best of luck shooting the next match, I hope some of these tips help. Let me know how it goes!
Really loving your action shots.
Awesome! Thanks again, Tracey! 👍😀
Useful info, Dan.
I can totally attest to “Okay, last shot” ... .Then ten seconds later, without any hint of shame, “Okay, let’s do that again. Just one more time”. I think I must say it every shoot 😂
Haha! Totally. “One more time” can easily turn into 20. 😂 Hope you’re doing well and enjoying the Scottish snow of late.
@@DanBaileyPhoto Dan, thanks. Yep, some good days out and frosty night running. It's been fun.
@@colinhenderson5890 Awesome. We're starting to get into winter here in AK as well. Let the fat biking begin! :D
Excellent Video, Thank You very very much, your Video was verry interesting, and imparted a lot of info to help those of us shooting Action Sports,
Thanks for your feedback, I'm glad you found this helpful! What camera system do you use and what kinds of action do you like to photograph?
DAn I shoot Nikon’s D3s, D850 & D610, I enjoy using vintage lenses with the Nikon 135mm f2 DC Prime a rather older lens. It is tack sharp lens f4, f5.6, 70-200mm f2.8, 85mm f1.8 I, 24-85mm are lenses i use majority of time. I also have vintage 28mm & 35mm primes, enjoy Portraiture, Landscapes, High School Action Sports. Thanks again for your excellent Video.
You're welcome. Modern cameras are very capable, but not infallible. I hope these tips help you increase your success rate, especially in tricky situations.
I loved your presentation. My wife and I shoot ballroom and latin dancing, usually in low light. I identify with everything you mention.
Hey Derek, thanks for your comment! Yes, it doesn't matter what kinds of subject you're photographing, these are factors that all action shooters face! What camera system do you use?
Great pictures and tips thanks.
Thanks so much for watching, I appreciate your feedback. Glad you enjoyed the tips. What kinds of subjects do you like to shoot?
Great video! You are an excellent educator! Love your videos!
Thank you so much! Glad you're finding my channel to be a helpful resource!
Great Dan, you did very demo how to shoot sport action and for me now will be to pratice a “LOT” !!! Thanks !!!
Thanks for the comment, Mark. Yes, when it comes to shooting sports and action, practice is the name of the game!!
I use Canon 1dx Mark iii and Nikon D5 and D6 cameras. I also bring my film cameras & film with me just to keep my manual focusing skills up to spec. I try to break down my photos like a 36 roll film.
Cool. Focusing is perhaps the hardest skill to master in photography. Nothing beats a solid fundamental history and lots of experience shooting with different cameras and subject matter.
@@DanBaileyPhoto I come from a film and manual lens background with my Canon AE 1 and Nikon FM to Leica M6 cameras. My Canon AE1 and Leica M6 were stolen from my home. Always a bunch of film in my fridge and get developed and compare to my Canon 1dx Mark iii and Nikon D5 and D6 cameras. I have to say I prefer the film prints more than the current digital
I hear that from some people. There is something to that, though. Film was so imperfect and "representational", whereas digital is so perfect. The style and imperfect look of film inspires a different type of visual and emotional response, because it invites us to use our imagination when viewing the image. A perfect photo offers less room for imagination and emotional introspection, because it's already delivered everything.
@@DanBaileyPhoto I agree as it’s the same with say a CD version of say Jean Michael Jarre albums on vinyl and digital there’s a difference as the top and bottom end on the sound wave is “clipped” so the bass sound doesn’t sound as dynamic. same for me with digital the essence is removed .
Very good! Really impressed with your original vision and shot selection!
Thanks, Ron. Appreciate the feedback. I'm glad you enjoyed this lesson. What kinds of action do you like to shoot?
@@DanBaileyPhoto birds in flight are the most challenging.
Great, sharp and consistent with my experience!!!! Nice job....
Cornelius, thanks so much for your feedback! What kinds of action do you like to shoot?
@@DanBaileyPhoto I shoot stills and video of squash in New York City. And I am in the midst of a long-term project on alternate forms of transportation (scooters, skateboards, motorized scooters, motorized skateboards, one wheels, bicycles, rollerblades, etc. in urban areas.
Cool. That sounds like a great project, especially given the current situation. I usually come to NYC every fall, but I missed it this year for the first time in almost ten years. ☹️
So much great information, thanks
Again, glad to help! 🙂
10:40 - just make shure you dont fill your buffer before, so that by the time the subject gets to location, your camera slows down.
Good point. Although with today's faster processors, this isn't as much an issue as it was a few years ago, especially if you're shooting JPEG. When shooting RAW, it's camera dependent, but again, with most higher end models, that number is pretty high.
@@DanBaileyPhoto if you aren't shooting raw, are you even a professional? 😅😁
😱😱😱 How can you even ask that?!!! 🤣
Great video. Hopefully, with practice it will lower my frustration with BIF and other action on my XT3! Thanks.
Thanks for your comment, I’m glad you found this helpful. These tips shoot definitely help you get better results with BIF. I made this video with that kind of photography in mind, because that can be a very demanding type of subject to capture. It often the requires the highest level of technique, and some photographers don’t quite understand that in addition to a good camera, they need to pay attention to these other factors. Good luck, let me know how it goes after you’ve had a chance to practice some of these tips!
A great video with very helpful tips
Hey Andy, thanks so much for the comment. Glad you found this to be a helpful lesson!!
You are simply amazing.. thank you!
Thank you so much, Majhool! 👍😀
Excellent video Dan! Just got an X-T4 and 70-300 and it's an awesome combo. I used zone autofocus for BIF the other day and i was super happy with the results!
I'm going to be doing surf videos for clients soon and single point was recommended for that which i can definitely see myself using. I almost always use zone for sports/action/wildlife photography, but i would love to know what AF mode you use for video.
Thanks dude!
Thanks very much for your comment! Yes, the X-T4 and XF70-300 + 1.4x TC is an excellent combo indeed. Although the 70-300 isn't one of the red badge zooms, I've been pleasantly surprised at how well it tracks fast subjects, including birds, providing you've got decent light.
Regarding autofocus for video, it's a little different when you're shooting in Movie mode. on the Fujis, you have Multi and Area. Multi lets you position the focus box manually inside the frame, while Area lets the camera choose the subject automatically. You still have AF-S, AF-C and Manual focus.
So, for surf videos, it would be good to do some tests and see how well the camera can pick up the surfer automatically in Area mode. If you find that it's not always accurate, then you might switch to Multi.
One thing to note, once you start shooting, you can not reposition the AF box in the frame using the joystick, but you can move it while filming by using the touchscreen. Tap the little touch box in the upper right of the LCD until it says AF AREA. Then you can touch and drag your finger around the frame to reposition the AF box if your subject moves.
With either method, I would use AF-C mode, because you'll be tracking moving subjects. Hope that helps!
BTW, I have a new online course that covers the entire Fuijfilm AF system. You can find it here: courses.danbaileyphoto.com/p/mastering-the-fujifilm-autofocus-system
@@DanBaileyPhoto thanks for taking your time to do such a detailed answer, it's really appreciated 👍. As you suggested, I'll test things out and going to the skatepark tomorrow will probably give me good practice because that'll be faster and more challenging compared to surfing.
It would be great if surfers would like to do photo sessions because I think I've pretty much figured out sports/action/wildlife for photography, but they prefer videos in order to study their techniques which I understand (being a surfer myself).
In any case, it'll be a fun challenge and the X-T4 has incredible video quality as it does stills. In my opinion, it's a true hybrid masterpiece.
You're most welcome! Glad to help. Yes, practice is everything. That's what makes you better at this. And you're right about the X-T4, it is a highly capable camera. I bought a cage, handle and Atomos monitor, and turned mine into a full-time video camera. Been having lots of fun with it.
Anyway, keep up the good work, and keep having fun with your Fuji! And let me know how your surfing videos come out.
Great advice. just wondering do you have to use fill flash for some of the mtb shots In the trees.
Hi, thanks for your comment! I occasionally use fill flash for shots like this, where I'm dealing with dim light in the forest. However, the photo examples in this video were shot without flash. They're straight exposures out of my Fujifilm camera.
Im def the weak link.. lol Great video. I have a old weak camera nikon d5100 the lens I use goes up to 200mm . When I first got it I took great sports pictures. After years of not using it for some reason idk what is going on. I try a,s,p,m modes and also the sports mode. I tried everything and I'm struggling. It's my sons last year of basketball and then baseball and I want to make photo books for him and a couple of his friends. Buy... my basketball pics are just blurry or noisy..
Hi Stephanie. Yes, we're all the weak link when it comes to technology and autofocus. As I said, that's one of, if not the hardest skills to master in photography, and it takes a lot of practice. I don't know exactly what the issue might be with your camera setup, but I hope that some of the tips in my video help.
Great pictures and great video. Thanks
Thanks, I appreciate the comment. 👍
Thank you Dan! These videos are very useful... I really appreciate them.
Thanks Jasper, glad you’re enjoying my lessons! What do you like to photograph!
Dan Bailey I began learning photography in sep 2018, wanted to do MTB - Downhill and trailbiking photography mainly. Bought a X-T3, some glass: 10-24, 35mmf2, 50-140 and 100-400. Also bought your ’outdoor action and adventure’ and ’Fujifilm X-series unlimited’ -books. Sooo mainly shooting people riding bikes, my running wife and landcape... Practising a bit on Birds in flight (swans mainly)since they are easy to find - not easy to photograph though:)
Hi Dan great video lesson I couldn't agree with you more on the Tips that you have discussed, I recon I go through this process every time I go out to shoot. I have no doubt that my Fuji kit including a recent purchase of the 100 - 400mm zoom helps me get more keepers than not but never 100% ever! Keep up the good work. Husky racing season has now kicked off here in the UK no snow but plenty of mud!! so I'm busy most weekends.
Hi Chris, thanks for commenting. Sounds like you've got a good AF workflow going and you defiantly have some good gear! That 100-400 is a fantastic lens for shooting action, it has an incredibly fast AF motor. Best of luck shooing huskies this winter, let me know how it goes!
@@DanBaileyPhoto Hi Dan, thanks I was very pleased with the 100-400mm first time out using it seems even quicker than the 50-140mm 2.8 just need good light to get the best results. Will send you a couple of decent images in due course. Best wishes for the Christmas season.
@@chriswellstead776 Thanks Chris, you as well!! I'll look forward to seeing your images.
Thank you Dan for these tips. Although I already know these points, I don't always put them to use. It's good to have someone remind me to be more patient and put into practice the tips you mentioned. I too shoot with the XT-3.
Hi John, thanks for the comment. Yes, practice and patience are definitely the key to becoming a more proficient shooter, especially with the technical stuff. What kinds of action do you like to shoot?
@@DanBaileyPhoto BIF mainly. I have shot some surfing photos, hockey and air shows.
@@johnzimmerman9624 BIF can definitely be very challenging, but I as I said, it's often because we expect too much from the gear in very dim and challenging environments.
@@DanBaileyPhoto I was using the Canon 1Dx Mark II before switching to Fuji over 2 years ago. I was hoping by now that I would be close to my success rate using Fuji. It has improved but there are still times where the camera hunts for focus in good lighting conditions.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I learned a lot.
Thanks for your comment, I’m glad you found this to be a helpful tutorial. What kind of action do you like to shoot?
Dan Bailey Hi Dan, dogs catching Frisbees
Oh man, I’m sure that’s pretty challenging at times, but with the promise of some really cool photos when you nail it!
Dan Bailey I get plenty of practice with my own dog and I live not to far from Purina Farms where they put on the dog shows
Thanks so much for this!
You're welcome, Kevin! Glad you found this helpful. What kinds of action subjects do you shoot?
Damn! Now you've bin & gone & told 'em all how it's done 😤
I just wish I'd found this tutorial three years ago - It's probably taken me that long to work most of this out by trial & error.
My passion is surfing photography, with a bit of mtb & trials thrown in as & when, and everything you say here is bang on point; partickly with surfing, it's imperative to read body language & use that to lock focus/tracking early.
When there's a LOT of white water flying all round the subject I generally use a largish single green square for focus & Custom setting #2 to keep focus on the guy throughout the moves.
Yea Peter, I gave away all of our secrets and now everyone knows exactly how to be great action shooter!!! Now they just needs to add in the years and years of practice, and they'll be all set!! 🤣. Anyway, glad you found this helpful. It's one of the lessons I cover in my new Fujifilm autofocus course. courses.danbaileyphoto.com/p/mastering-the-fujifilm-autofocus-system
Reading body language is an excellent method to help anticipate the action and help you figure out where to start tracking the subject. Which camera/lens setup are you current using to shoot action?
Hi Dan why when I shoot action photo I never have blurry background everything is always un focus do you Know why and great video!!
Depth of field and blurry/sharp backgrounds are affected by the following elements: Lens focal length, distance from camera to the subject, distance from subject to background, and your f/stop setting. Shooting with a longer lens, being closer to your subject, against a more distant background, and shooting with a smaller number f/stop, or using any combination of these factors will create more blurry, out of focus backgrounds. What lens and exposure settings are you typically using, and what type of action are you shooting?
@@DanBaileyPhoto tanks and i’m using a 45-150mm lens with a lumix g7 and i shoot motocross
Thanks. Really useful tips. I was blaming the camera for my autofocus problems… it was my lack of skill and practice!
Hey Peter, thanks for your comment. Yes, it’s easy so easy for us to blame the gear, especially when we’re trying to use it to its full potential in very demanding situations. What kinds of action do you like to shoot?
@@DanBaileyPhoto I am currently (trying) to shoot birds at our local nature reserve. I have a copy of X Series Unlimited which is really interesting and helpful.
Awesome. So glad you're finding it to be a helpful resource. Bird photography is a channeling genre indeed, but it will definitely test your skills and help you improve, especially if you follow the tips in this video! Where do you like to photograph birds?
Brilliant as usual a real tour de force.
Thanks so much for your comment, I'm glad you found this helpful. 👍
Love your videos, great stuff.What about photographing children, not quite sports action, but erratic or sudden movement, any autofocus settings tips?
Thanks, Chuck! If your camera has any kind of autofocus or AF-C custom settings menu, then I would play around with that. This kind of feature allows you to tweak the autofocus to better track more erratically moving subjects. If you don't have anything like that on your camera, then you need to resort to techniques like anticipating you subject movement/position, waiting for the right moment, using very fast frame rates and shooting short bursts, and also using the right AF mode or pattern. Which camera are you using?
@@DanBaileyPhoto thank you for the reply, I'm using the xt30, and the 35mm f2 love it so far. Thanks again
You’re welcome! Have fun with your Fuji. That’s a great setup!
Do you think Pre shot auto focus could ever be a help? I always have it disabled but was thinking it might help reduce the focus time?
Yes, absolutely. PRE-SHOT ES is a highly useful tool for photographing fast moving subjects. I use it quite often when I'm shooting action. Which camera are you currently using?
Very helpful info 👍 Thank You
You're welcome! Glad it was helpful! What kinds of action subjects do you like to shoot?
@@DanBaileyPhoto Hi. Car Photography / Drag Racing. Have Canon 7D MK2 with 24 /105 F4L. One day would love a 70-200 f2.8 IS ii / iii.
Cool. Yes, that would be a great lens for shooting cars and drag racing. 👍
Great video! Thanks for the tips!
You're welcome, Derek. What kinds of action subjects do you like to shoot?
Thanks Dan for your time and effort put into this video Much appreciated
You're welcome, thanks for watching! What do you like to photograph?
Thanks Dan! I was booked for sports photography, while my speciality is actually portraits. Now at least I know what to practice until the big day 😉
Hey Monika, that's awesome! I'm glad you were able to get a few tips from my video, I hope they help you in your shoot. What will you be photogrpahing?
Great Video, thanks!
Thanks, Dan. Glad you found this helpful! What kinds of action subjects do you like to shoot?
@@DanBaileyPhoto I’ve been shooting a lot of CrossFit, I just got into this on a whim. I saw a need have alway been creative so I went for it, ended up scoring my first subscription job with an area gym. Super excited. I’ve been shooting a Sony mirrorless a7ii. 33mm 1.4. Do you have any suggestions next step up lens on a budget? Like a Sony - E 50mm F1.8 OSS?
@danthesavageproject On Instagram
That sounds like a good project, and I'm sure there are lots of great althetic/motion subjects to capture. Regarding the Sony system, I don't really know anything about their lens line, but a 50mm f1.8 would be great fast normal lens for shooting that kinds of stuff. The relatively narrow focal length and fast aperture will work very well for isolating subjects inside with shallow focus. It's probably an ideal lens for shooting inside the gym.
@@DanBaileyPhoto awesome, thank you Sir!
You're welcome!
Great video, Dan, thanks alot
Thanks Emil, glad you found this helpful. What kinds of action do you like to photograph?
If possible, don't push the aperture to the extremes to get a slightly greater DOF.
For af in general, calibrate / micro adjust your lens. Sports generally ask for a longer lens. Small differences can have a great impact.
Indeed. Very good insight. I remember, even in my early years shooting action, I would often shoot my 2.8 lens at around f 3.5, just to get that little bit of extra sharpness in my images.
That was excellent!! Thanks so much!!
Thanks so much for your comment, I’m glad you enjoyed this tutorial. What kind of action do you like to shoot?
@@DanBaileyPhoto I've been shooting my dog! It's quite challenging to get sharp photos all the time. I tap my finger on the LCD to set the focus point and then wish for the best. Both my dog and I need more training😆
Dan, what lenses do you normally use on these situations?
My most often used lenses for shooting action are the 14mm f/2.8, 90mm f/2, 50-140mm f/2.8 and the 100-400mm.
thank you! very helpful video! I have x-t3 too btw
Hi John, thanks for your comment. Glad you found this helpful! What kinds of action subjects do you like to shoot?
@@DanBaileyPhoto maybe political events, rallies etc. I participated in some in my country recently. But I have strange issue with shutter button and it's yet to be resolved, sometimes shutter button simply doesn't work, asking like for more pressure than usual (it set to release priority, and I've read that it maybe somehow have to do with flicker reduction option).
Cool. Good for you. I don't know what that would be, I've only used the X-Pro 3 once. I found it to be an amazing camera, though. 👍
Great informative video
Hey Chuck, thanks for your comment. Glad you found this helpful. What camera do you use and what kinds of action subjects do you like to shoot?
Not sure if my alservo is working.I have it switched on and my lens sounds like it is trying to focus.My focus points do not light up or beep when i half hold down the shutter button.Please give me some advise thanks
Alan, which camera are you using?
@@DanBaileyPhoto Canon 7d with ef 70-300 L
Alan, I'm sorry, I don't have any experience with Canon DSLR autofocus. I would post this question on a dedicated Canon forum and see if you can get an answer, or else contact Canon support.
@@DanBaileyPhoto Thats ok
Good luck. I hope you get it all worked out.
Great help! Thank you
Thanks Sarah. What kind of action do you like to shoot?
Dan Bailey motocross because my dad and my sister own one and they are always so happy when they have some pictures.
@@jucktkeinen9342 People always like having cool action photos shot of them, don't they? And it's pretty satisfying when you're able to get these "hero shots" of your friends and family!
Thank Dan.
👍
Thank you
You're welcome, Cindy. Glad you found this helpful. What kinds of action subjects do you like to shoot?
Great, thanks for this tips Dan!
Thanks for the comment! Glad you found these helpful. What kinds of action do you typically shoot?
Thank you Dan!
You’re most welcome, Dawn!
Hi Dan! Thanks for the video! I am shooting a disc dog competition tomorrow and want to try something different, and create a multiple exposure of the dog spinning and catching the frisbee. Do you have any thoughts what shutter speed might be best when trying a multi exposure? I imagine I need at least 1/1000 second to freeze the action and capture multiple photos. Have you experimented with this and do you have any suggestions of slower shutter speeds for this? Jeff Cable has an Olympic fencing shot (that perhaps you have seen) and I wanted to try to mimic that with the dog. Would panning also be required for the dog or just fast shutting and multi? Sorry for the barrage of questions, thank you!! I use the canon system.
Hi Gary, I just looked at that Jeff Cable photo. Pretty cool image! Here's his own blog post where he talks about how he shot those Olympic fencing photos: blog.jeffcable.com/2016/08/photographing-fencing-and-getting-shot.html
His faster shots were captured at 1/1250 second shutter speed, so yes, I'd try to stay around 1/1000 sec for nice, crisp, frozen action. For his multiple exposure montage shots, it looks like he stayed pretty high with the shutter speed. While the multiple exposures give the feeling of fast, flurried motion, you can see that each individual shot is still very sharp. Otherwise, I think the whole sequence would devolve into a blurry mess.
Also, with some of his shots, there is a blurry "multiple" background, so perhaps he was experimenting with slight panning and slower shutter speeds. However, for his "winning" shot, it looks like the rest of the frame is static and quiet sharp, so that would indicate a fast shutter speed. This effect produces a nice contrast that helps anchor down the implied motion with a static foreground.
I have not tried this kind of technique but it looks pretty fun. Good luck and let me know how it goes with the dog competition!
@@DanBaileyPhoto thanks Dan!! I appreciate it and I didn’t know he blogged about it. I will check into it. I’ll try to get the “safe shots” first and see if I can experiment after. People love their dogs and it can be a lot of fun to photograph the action. I usually photograph birds mostly but a lot of the same techniques apply. I will get back to you after I give this a try. Thanks again, friend!
Gary
Yea, that sounds like a pretty fun even to photograph! And I'm sure people will be really excited to see your photos! 👍
@@DanBaileyPhoto it’s a ton of fun! I’ve never photographed teenager athletes or people, and would love to get into that someday. Dogs are a lot of fun too. You should see what a top shape border collie can do in Flyball. They are bullets!!
Thank you, i learned a lot
Thanks for your comment, I'm glad you found this helpful. What kinds of action subjects do you like to photograph?
@@DanBaileyPhoto sports, mostly basketball and volleyball, ♥️
Cool. Which camera are you using?
@@DanBaileyPhoto i use Sony A6000
@@rjcaubalejo How are you liking that model?
Great tips and I learned a lot! Thanks, Dan!
Hi Bobbi!! Thanks for the comment. 😊🥰 Hope you guys are doing well up in the NE! 😊
Great practical advice thank you 👍
Thanks Chardon. Glad you enjoyed it! What kinds of action do you like to shoot?
@@DanBaileyPhoto I'm mostly shooting my family at soccer or on their bikes. I'm also really loving a bit of nature. I'd love to be on the sidelines at the big events doing it, however I'm usually there already with a video camera on my shoulder. Photography is definitely becoming much more fun for me, and I can see myself doing more in this field.
Thank u!
You're welcome! I'm glad you found this helpful. What kinds of action do you like to shoot?
This is great, thank you 😊
Thanks for your comment, Sarah. 👍 What kinds of action subjects do you like to photograph?
I love Equestrian sport, particularly one&three day eventing 😊
Cool, I hope you can use some of these techniques in the future!
Video really interesting!!!
Thanks, Roberto. Do you shoot any kind of action?
@@DanBaileyPhoto I took a lot of shots at football matches when my son was playing, until he was 18 years old. Now for five years he has been practicing the box and I keep shooting... Mine is just passion, I'm not professional. I'm in love with photography. thank you for your teaching with your videos! 👏💪
Cool! Hopefully these tips will help you with photographing your son. Thanks for the feedback!! 👍😀
Really nice to hear from a fuji user; sometimes things don't translate from brand to brand, thanks, Dan!
I had a question for you: I've been trying to capture some dogs at the dog park leaping for balls and frisbees using the kit lens 18-55mm. I've tried a few of the AF settings like you suggested but crisp photos are rare. When I am tracking the dog, do I need to press the focus button (does it matter if it's half-pressed shutter or back button?) just once or hold it the entire time from beginning of tracking to when the shutter snaps?
Hi there! Thanks for the comment! For shooting leaping dogs, I would put the Fuji on Zone AF and set a pretty large focus area box. Make sure the AF switch on the front is set to AF-C, and set the mode dial to CH. Then press and hold the shutter button at HALF PRESS while you follow the action, ideally a few moments before the moment when you think the peak will happen. As you get closer to that moment, FULLY PRESS and hold the shutter down and capture a burst right around when that peak moment happens. In other words hold half press from beginning of the tracking, and then hold at full press as you start actually capturing frames. Hope that helps.
One thing that may be affecting things, the 18-55 doesn't have the fastest AF motor. It's a good lens, and you can still capture action with it, but you just to refine your technique and do lots of practice with the specific action that you're shooting, so that you can better anticipate the moment. Also, make sure you're shooting a high enough shutter speed.
What Fuji are you using? Depending on the model, there's another really helpful trick you may be able to try if you have one of the newer cameras.
@@DanBaileyPhoto I'm shooting on the xt20
I was hoping to pick up a new lens soon. I like the viltrox 85mm 1.8, but I would also like something for sports and pet-action like the fuji 55-200. I'd really like the 100-400 you recommended on your channel, but that's a little too pricy, haha.
Thanks for the tips, I'm gonna keep trying until I get something I'm proud of!
I have the 55-200, it has decent autofocus, but I would recommend looking at the new 70-300. It's nearly identical in size and design, but with a slightly longer focal length and updated optics and stabilization. I've been very impressed with that lens. The 100-400 is an amazing sports/action lens, but yes, it is a bit pricy, and definitely bigger and heavier. If you don't mind primes, the 90mm has amazingly sharp autofocus. With it's quad linear motor, it's one of the fastest AF and sharpest lenses in the line. And the 50-140 is always a rock solid high performer for shooting action.
Where are you shooting all that Cyclocross?
John, we have a great CX series here in Anchorage every fall. Great courses, and an awesome group of racers. I usually shoot the first couple races and then race with the open men and Master 40+ wave. Been doing that for the past 11 years. Do you shoot cyclocross?
@@DanBaileyPhoto I have in the past. Bubblecross in West Milford NJ. I tried a CycleCross training camp one year and realized how much out of shape I'm in. It's one of the hardest things I have ever done, and I'm a 20 year now retired firefighter!
Indeed!! Cyclocross is without a doubt one of the hardest, most demanding activities you can subject yourself to. I race mountain bikes and occasionally do long gravel bike races, and CX is WAY harder. It's basically an hour long heart attack at full exertion. And it's so awesome!!! 😀💥
Excellent series of videos - much easier than the manual to learn from! Good to see you've ditched the cap - it never did suit you! :-)
Haha! I love my Walz wool cycling caps! I think they look great on my me, but I guess that’s all a matter of opinion. 😂
Actually, one reason I wear them in my videos is because it can sometimes be very hard to “key” out my thinning hair on the top of my head against the green screen. The cap gives me a much smoother line, which means less work in post and no weird visual artifacts.
Anyway, I’m glad to hear that you’re finding my videos to be so helpful. What camera fo you use and what kinds of subjects do you like to shoot?
@@DanBaileyPhoto Ah! I see :-) It's hard to see what would work better - perhaps you should try diferent hats on different videos - you could turn into an influencer for the hat industry :-) I have the X Pro-2, the X A5, and a Panasonic travel zoom, taking mainly travel, architectural, and, when the lockdown lifts, some landscape. I've got pics at www.flickr.com/photos/digicanon/ - digicanon because I used a Canon DSLR before switching to Fuji. Also some on 500px - 500px.com/p/tomwilson?view=photos
Haha!! I actually have about 7 or 8 different Walz caps, but this new brown tweed one is my favorite these days. They're the only caps that give me a good fit on my pinhead and I dig the style. Maybe Walz can sponsor me! 🤣 Nice variety of subjects your feeds, Tom. I'm really looking forwards to making it back to the UK when things settle down again. Haven't been to the Peak District yet, I guess I should put that on my list!
@@DanBaileyPhoto Had snow on the lawn this morning, so I guess it will be deeper in the Peak District - which is just on my doorstep, well, about 15 mins drive away, so if you do get back to the UK at any time, let me know :-)
We still have snow on the lawn! It's been there since November! 🤣 The long days are quickly evaporating the pile, though. Spring is well underway!
great video, very useful!
Thanks, glad you liked it! What kind action do you like to photograph?
i photograph Highschool Football games, great practice
@@WillColavito Then you know just how challenging it can be! An evening game, played under the lights can be a very difficult situation for capturing good action scenes. I hope these tips help you get great results.
great info
Thanks! Glad you found this helpful! What kinds of subjects do you like to shoot?
@@DanBaileyPhotoHi, i shoot sports and fashion .
@@DanBaileyPhoto Sports
Why is it that subjects moving towards you is tougher than subjects moving perpendicular to you?
Excellent question, Sebastian! It's because with subjects moving towards you, the camera has to use predictive algorithms that compensate for the inherent lag time between when it locks on the subject and when you actually press the shutter. There's always a delay. Essentially, it has to determine where it thinks the subject will be, which is different than where it is in the exact moment it's locked in focus, and then it has to communicate all this to the lens and tell it to move back/forth accordingly, to compensate for the changes in relative distance.
With subjects that are moving perpendicular to your camera position, there are much lower relative distance changes between each frame, and so the camera and lens don't have to work quite as hard.
@@DanBaileyPhoto gotcha, so in short, the plane of focus is constantly changing as subject approaches you whereas with a perpendicular tracking the subject is moving across the same plane?
Yes, that's correct. With a subject that moves across your field of view, the plane of focus does change, but must less radically. With subjects that are moving towards or away from you, the focus distance is constantly changing, and so that camera is constantly trying to evaluate and keep up.
Also!! Thanks a ton for the video :)
Hey Jason, you're welcome!! Thanks so much for the comment! Glad you enjoyed this!
Some things I learned from photoing my first running event this past Saturday, Ghost of Seattle half and full marathon and 50k around Lake Washington and Seward Park in Seattle. I was able to capture some great photos but missed a number of them as well. I cannot be in three places at once. Pick a spot and basically wait for the runners to come by. Either a picturesque spot on the course or the start finish line. I was not able to scope out a spot the day before so spent the first hour spot hunting as well as tweaking camera settings and as the sun rose it changed my locations as the lightening became not as flattering as other locations. I settled on finish line but missed some of the runners by the time I got back there. I did get nice photos at all my spots though but the cost was missing many runners. I used X-T2 with 90mm. I was able to get them from a bit of a distance coming towards me then panning across in front of me. The 90 was great but the photo closest to me, their faces ended up bit physically flat looking. Using a telephoto up close I suppose? In hindsight the 56mm might have been the better choice and woulda had the extra stops of light for pre-sunrise photos as well. I am looking forward to trying this again with new found knowledge. Thanks Dan for this video and all your videos!
Quinn, thanks for the comment. As you learned, events can be a great way to practice this style of photography, but it can also be challenging with regards to finding the right vantage point. And as you say, you can’t be in three spots at once, so that’s where scouting, or at least knowing the course can make a big difference.
With regards to lenses, yes, the 90mm would compress your faces a bit more up close, but it has a much faster AF motor than the Fuji 56mm lens, so in most cases, I would opt for the 90 when shooting action and fast moving subjects. Maybe try grabbing your shots a little further away so you don’t get as much compression. The extra stop could be nice, but the ISO performance on the Fuji is so good, that unless you really need the extra light, I would say that you won’t lose much quality by just cranking up the ISO setting a little bit to make up for that extra stop.
At any rate, keep practicing and experiencing with different lenses, framing and vantage points. 👍
@@DanBaileyPhoto hmm yeah I did not think of that, the 56mm being a slower focusing lens. I just picked up the 56mm a month ago. The 90mm was for the most part pretty darn perfect. However if I was to regularly photo running events I would get the 50-140mm (currently own the 16mm 1.4, 35mm f2, 56mm, 90mm). thanks
thank God for digital Try shooting 26 frame chrome and over shoot to get one pic at 12 bucks a roll
Totally!! Been there! Lived it for years. That’s how I got so good at this! 😀 What kinds of action subjects do you like to shoot?
Slow to the party here. If you want to improve focusing while balancing exposure, aperture while capturing the shot, try night street photography in urban settings. The action breaks faster than you think, subjects move from dark to light, they will be in and out of focus, the whole shebang.
Thanks for your comment. What you describe is certainly a very challenging type of situation, given that AF success depends largely on available light and contrast. Shooting and problem solving in that type of environment would absolutely help you increase your AF skills! What kind of camera system do you typically use?
Also, do you have any special tips or techniques that you use to help capture these types of scenes and increase your success rate with the camera?
@leyPhoto This will be a touch long winded. I started street photography with a Rebel camera (Canon) but moved to the Canon 5D mk 2, then the Canon 5D mk4. I have a Canon 35mm f2 but prefered using my Sigma 50mm f1.4 for night street photography for that extra light speed boost. I don't have to tell you, sometimes one stop is a big difference in low light. I then bounced to a Fuji X100F, the poor man's Leica for night street work. I liked the smaller profile and less visibility (black model) when shooting in some less than safe locations. I use the Peak Design cuff strap so that if my camera is stolen the thief will have to drag me along. For night work, AUTO ISO is your friend and something that is new for me, I'll fire off more than one photo, kind of like bird photography to ensure at least one decent image. I shoot in AF-S and zone mode. I have also started using the in camera TC 50mm with the X100F. The manual focus ring on the X100F is sensitive so it can be unreliable and accidentally shift while walking and not shooting. I don't use the AF-MF mode, only AF. If I can, I'll prefocus, and half press the shutter as the subject walks into the focus zone. The shutter is set and the aperture is set. I am usually adjusting the aperture if I need to make adjustments. This is all happening often in one second.
Sounds like you've developed a good system over the years! If you're interested, I have an entire online course that's geared around the Fujifilm AF system. You can find it here: courses.danbaileyphoto.com/p/mastering-the-fujifilm-autofocus-system
If only i could understand everything your teaching in this video
Hi, what are you not understanding? I can try to explain further if you have questions.
2:57 when people say that phones are a better camera
Haha! That was during an assignment a few years ago. And I did manage to nail the shot! 😂
close captioned please
Kerry, you can see a text version of this lesson on my blog here: danbaileyphoto.com/blog/10-essential-autofocus-tips-for-sports-action-photography/ Let me know if you have any questions about any of these tips.
If you never used a camera, perhaps this is a good insight. However it is SO "Generalised" that it offers nothing for someone interested in sports photography. Talk about specific settings, iso actual focusing choices, perhaps in scenarios. This seems like a video to just fill a youtube slot and get views but otherwise I find this gives me nothing to use when clearly you have a lot of knowledge.
Hi Benny, thanks for your comment. The reason I created this lesson, and why I think it’s actually a very important topic, is because I see a lot of photographers complain that their AF isn’t performing up to task, without paying attention to these very fundamental aspects. In many cases, people don’t take these things into consideration, and then wonder why they’re not getting sharp images.
Consequently, they blame the gear, instead of recognizing that they might have expected too much from it in that particular situation, or that they didn’t use the right AF pattern or mode. Perhaps they were trying to capture very fast action in low light against a very busy background. That’s a difficult shit for any photographer to make with any camera.
I do have a lot of situational examples on my blog and in my ebooks, but I posted this video because it’s a broad message that I feel all action photographers need to know.
If you already have a good handle on these 10 things, then that’s great. You’re far ahead of most people. After that, it’s about practice until all this stuff becomes second nature.
What kinds of action do you like to shoot?
@@DanBaileyPhoto Thank you for your reply Dan, very valid!. I have lacked in sporting a bit, but when asked i find i struggle to get my singular focusing square to the moving head. Like if running right i don't want to shoot with their eyes facing right and have that negative space on the rest of the frame. A few ppl use Back focus, but then there is also the sports modes in Canon 5D mkiv, which have the little icons of cyclists, soccer etc but i do not understand between them, my choice of focusing square (manual) and back or button focusing what I should do to be ready for each moment, i always feel i am chasing the person. Rugby is the general thing but not for a while thanks to covid!..
You speak really well, appreciate your time,
Cheers,
Ben.
Benny, not being a Canon user, I don't know what those icons do, but I am generally not a proponent of back button focus. I know a lot of DSLR shooters prefer that method, but being an action shooter for over 20 years, I just don't see the point in adding another finger into the equation. It just complicates things. You can accomplish the same thing with shutter-activated focus tracking.
As for getting the little AF box on the subject in just the right placement in the frame... again this is what I was referring to. AF and shooting action is the hardest skill in photography, and it takes lots of practice. Tracking subjects side to side is always very challenging. Not knowing your Canon AF layout, I would advise trying out some of the different AF patterns and using one of the tracking modes. You might even try using Face Detection AF.
Dan, if I might make a suggestion: It is clear that you REALLY know your subject matter, however, I believe it may be more entertaining to your audience if you would slow down your speech pattern just a bit. Your videos are packed with useful information but you are talking so fast it’s hard to keep up. - Bill
Thanks, William. Yes, I get pretty excited about this stuff, and I know I can sometimes talk pretty fast. Rest assured, this is something I’m working on. 👍 Appreciate the feedback.
@william underwood, in case you're not familiar.. there's an option in a youtube video called "playback speed" wherein you can slow the video.
You do you Dan, I watched this at 2x speed
Waffle waffle waffle ..get to the point
Thanks for watching. Hopefully you ended up finding this helpful. What kinds of action subjects do you like to shoot?
No matter how you try - sport photography is plain boring.
Thanks for your comment. What kinds of subjects do you like to shoot?
Thank you
You’re welcome, Kerry. 👍 What kinds of action subjects do you like to photograph?
All Sports activities. I captured both Stevenson girls softball and boys baseball recently for the papers. you explained these tips clearly. Thank you
Awesome. Glad this helped!!