Volvo S60 V70 Vacuum pump buzzing after parking the car - failed brake booster pedal seal 2001-2009
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- Опубликовано: 3 мар 2018
- If the switch top appears broken, try replacing it first, there's two part numbers
www.fcpeuro.com/products/volv...
www.fcpeuro.com/products/volv...
If the switch doesn't quiet the pump, possible a failed booster pedal seal is failing. Note that if left too long unfixed, the pump will end by failing as well and you may experience hard brake pedal at start up
Booster (servo) replacement tips : • Volvo S60 V70 and Merc...
Brake pedal plunger seal replacement (difficult) : • ATE Brake Booster Serv... 
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Just saw this before I tried to replace the booster seal from inside the cabin. My 01 V70 just had an engine replaced and now I know better where to check for any loose hoses. Thank you, thank you so very much for these videos!
Please read bellow the whole post
Check first the pump switch, the top plastic can break loose. Make sure the connector is fully engaged as well.
This pumps goes bad when there is a vacuum leak at the brake booster. As the booster vacuum drops below a certain level, the pump kicks in to bring the vacuum back to the level. However, because of the leak, the pump runs way too much and wears out (the brushed wear). Usually, the pump will run after shutting the engine off (will run intermittently for 5-10 times), or when the car is started in the morning, or when the car has just been parked and the brake pedal is depressed. Sometimes the pump can be heard running even while driving the car.
Before suspecting the diaphragm inside the booster, there are two or three places where the leak this happens: under the grey bellow inside the car, at the vacuum hose from the pump where it gets into the booster (a rubber seal), or at the diaphragm position switch seal (the sensor right near the master cylinder).
But the most common is the seal under the grey below, it gets soft with age and may start leaking or even get torn. May try to lubricate this seal with SYNTHETIC dielectric grease but once it gets soft, it cannot be reversed. NO regular grease there.
This valve also contains check valves to isolate the brake booster from receiving positive manifold pressure in turbocharged cars. I believe the failure of this valve is what leads to failure of the booster seal.
I replaced the check valve because I heard that noise for a while I wasn’t sure what it was then a couple weeks later I open my hood and the check valve was broken apart. I replaced it today and drove it and came back and now it’s making that noise again. Does this mean my seals or seal is bad?
Seal replacement video - this job is difficult and requires very good hand ability, not for everyone ruclips.net/video/saX-GG6s1Ck/видео.html
It appears there are several seal numbers, so ask URO ahead for your car year and model
thanks 👍
@Peppermint I replaced the check valve because I heard that noise for a while I wasn’t sure what it was then a couple weeks later I open my hood and the check valve was broken apart. I replaced it today and drove it and came back and now it’s making that noise again. What does this mean?
I replaced the booster master cilinder and that was not the problem it was the vacuum pump
Great video! I have a similar buzzing noise coming from my 2006 S60 T5 AWD. I believe it's coming from the same pump, so I just checked the connection and it was on there tight. Original part, by the way. Do you think I should disconnect and reconnect the plug? I'm not sure what to do at this point.
Any chance your on RUclips often and figured this out? 08 AWD hearing it nonstop since back from shop
@@ajwoodward6257 That brake booster valve was the issue. I think the cost of the part was about $80. Very simple to replace.
this valve can leak performance?
Hello Peppermint1, can you please make a video how flush the coolant, I can't find and I don't know where to locate which the one near the engine block. Thank you.
ruclips.net/video/PMKu2GE4Yjs/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/5J9amzilX2g/видео.html
You ain't kidding the booster seal under the dash is a nightmare. I have this buzzing going on and off constantly. Ordered a new booster switch from IPD. Do you have any vids on troubleshooting a power seat motor that won't go back and forth? all other functions work. And thanks for the videos.
Be sure to watch the booster video replacement because it has a very important information - hopefully you have a left hand driving car ruclips.net/video/jKcDOLIYR3A/видео.html
You can also replace the seal without removing the booster but it's a very difficult job, even more so with a clutch pedal on manual transmissions ruclips.net/video/saX-GG6s1Ck/видео.html
@@Peppermint1 Already replaced the brake actuator seal at the pedal - bear of a job. The trick is to cut the installer pipe down, lube the seal generously, and work that summabitch in there in a rotating manner. Yes, left hand auto trans.
So, I have the intermittent buzzing from the vacuum pump. I replaced the switch in your video, but it continues to buzz when when driving and after car turned off. Are there any other switches that can be at fault? Or is this likely a vacuum leak?
@@attilahooper Hard to tell, once the engine warm and running the system should keep vacuum inside the booster so yes there may be a leak somewhere related to the booster system
@@Peppermint1 OK, thanks for the quick reply. Btw I used your video for the brake pedal seal, thanks for that - hissing gone! Just looking at another vid by Raul Romo and a comment said that a bad hose would also cause a rough idle, which what I have.
I replaced the check valve because I heard that noise for a while I wasn’t sure what it was then a couple weeks later I open my hood and the check valve was broken apart. I replaced it today and drove it and came back and now it’s making that noise again. How did it go for you, was it the seal under the pedal?
Do you have a video on replacing the vacuum pump?
It's not difficult on the gasoline engines. It has two mounting bolts with rubber washers who act like dampers, so just undo the lower nut while locking the bolt from rotating and keep a hand not to loose the nut, then slide the bolt with washers sideways off the metal bracket - keep the bolt and washers together. The hose to the switch has two green clips, one above one underneath, rotate a little the hose, then depress both green clips fully at same time (a bit hard on the fingers) and remove the hose
I recently bought a v70r that this part was completely separated from the vacuum lines. Would this potentially cause misfires. I reworked plugs coils grounds and all but still random misfire code. I'm sure this is surely a great way for leaks to cause my issue but would love a second opinion.
In my opinion it should not be related to misfires. Make sure first all spark plugs and coils are fine. One possibility for random misfires is a faulty or cheap MAF sensor, worth getting a used one to test if it helps
@@Peppermint1 plugs and coils brand new from fcpeuro but ill look into testing the MAF and if not a smoke test. Thanks for your help.
Hello sir. I really need your help. So 2 years ago, my vacuum pump would run a few times for a few minutes after switching off the car. Later I noticed that air was leaking from the booster seal and brake pedal became hard. So I installed another used booster but air was still leaking except this time only when brake pedal was depressed. Also vacuum pump ran when brake pedal is depressed and a few times after car switched off. So I figured the replacement booster was bad and I got another used booster but same things happened; air leak when brake is depressed and vacuum pump whining. So I decided to change only the seal and I know I installed it correctly but I was disappointed to still have some air leaking when brake pedal is depressed and with it vacuum pump whining. Does it mean that the 2 boosters were bad and the current seal that I changed was also bad? Or is it the vacuum pump that's bad?
If the vacuum pump is bad, it will no longer run at all, and you will perhaps have a hard pedal when starting the car. If the switch is not broken, try looking at all hoses from the switch - make sure the hose at the pump is fully inserted, the hose going to the engine is not cracked, the hose going to the booster is not leaking (has a small rubber seal). Otherwise, all the booster seals get soft after 10 years, and almost nobody is replacing them, so there is a good chance any used booster will have a soft seal at the pedal. The replacement seal is much stiffer - ruclips.net/video/saX-GG6s1Ck/видео.html
@@Peppermint1 Alright, thank you so much for the explanation. I will look at what you have suggested
Hi I am experiencing this issue exactly! I searched for a long time to find an answer and this video was it! I have inspected the switch but it doesnt appear to be broken in any way. The connector was in the whole way, and the pump runs intermittently after shutting the engine off. When i disconnect this switch the pump doesnt run at all.
How do i know if the switch is bad or if the plunger seal is bad? Replacing the switch seems easy but the part is expensive, while the seal is a harder job. Is there a way i can determine which is the part I need to fix? Thanks!
Look for my other videos about brake booster seal
@@Peppermint1 awesome, i took a look at it. I replaced this switch and the pump no longer runs after the car is shut off. So at least that is fixed. The pump still runs every time the brake is pressed down, I assume this is normal? or should it not run every time the brake gets pressed. It stops running after about a second maybe and only comes on when the brake gets pressed.
Thank you for the help!
If the switch top appears broken, try replacing it first, there's two part numbers
www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-booster-vacuum-switch-s60-v70-xc70-s80-genuine-volvo-31265825#fitment
www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-brake-booster-vacuum-switch-genuine-volvo-31400693#fitm
If the switch doesn't quiet the pump, possible a failed booster pedal seal is failing. Note that if left too long unfixed, the pump will end by failing as well and you may experience hard brake pedal at start up
Booster (servo) replacement tips : ruclips.net/video/jKcDOLIYR3A/видео.html
Brake pedal plunger seal replacement (difficult) : ruclips.net/video/saX-GG6s1Ck/видео.html
But what is the part called
www.ipdusa.com/products/13597/235367-booster-vacuum-switch
Thank you!
pa pwoblem!