Volvo S60 V70 and Mercedes ATE Brake booster/servo replacement LEFT HAND DRIVING cars 2001-2009
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- Servo/booster seal IN CAR replacement • ATE Brake Booster Serv... (very difficult)
Also showing steps to remove the ABS pump, master cylinder & module controller unit
Seal part # 03.7718-5028.1
Seal and special grease www.ebay.ie/it...
Seal from URO (not sure if the quality is good because URO parts are usually poor quality www.ebay.com/i...
UK seller picclick.co.uk...
Mounting video vimeo.com/2103...
Brake pedal switch • Volvo S60 V70 XC60 XC9...
After I watched this video I felt informed enough to tackle my '04 XC70 brake booster. My XC was throwing 3 codes. Small Vacuum Leak, Lean fuel mixture and the upper O2 sensor was malfunctioning. I only replaced the Brake Booster because the Vacuum Booster Pump was constantly running. Well, I took you at your suggestion of not having to disconnect any of the brake lines and just move both the anti lock brake and master cylinder aside. It worked out well. There is just a little less room to work in but it was possible. Anyhow, upon replacing my brake booster the other 3 codes where all gone and cleared. It has been almost a year now and they have not come back. I just wanted to make mention of this in case anyone ends up have the same 3 fault codes with the vacuum booster pump problem too. Great video, informative enough to encourage me to fix my car successfully. Thank You Very Much for your efforts.
Very useful feedback and tips! Thumbs up on behalf of other Volvo owners - While there, worth mentioning the ATF replacement brake booster (servo) is not expensive at Fcpeuro.com - for our American folks - it may be indeed worth replacing the whole unit. (however this is a difficult task on right hand driving cars - UK, Aus, etc)
Very awesome, currently experiencing air leak, brake problems and a lean code, will have to replace the unit with a better one.
hello and thank you for the very explicit video on changing the brake booster, it helped me a lot!
Tip: when we place back the dust cover, it takes away some of the grease. Therefore, before placing the dust boot cover, once the grease is in place, depress the pedal a few times (with the dust cover tossed) to spread the grease. Then install the dust cover.
a tip : you can watch series on flixzone. Me and my gf have been using it for watching a lot of movies lately.
@Oscar Gordon Yup, I have been watching on Flixzone for since december myself =)
I haven't done it yet, but this summer I would try to replace the seal without removing the booster from the car (the replacement booster also failed at the seal). Will update this post if I succeed.
@@simonnoppa6658 Hi, yes finished yesterday. I'm working now on the video, should be released next week. Have to say, a very stressful job because it seems like it won't be possible, but I explain a few tricks in the video. Stay tuned
My seal looks exactly like this one @1:43 and the boot was wet and covered with dust so it was leaking for awhile. My mechanic did not want to attempt this and suggested the labor would be just the same to get a brand new booster with warranty. Also made a good point that if the seal did not work it'll be another labor charge to replace the booster with the master cylinder.
I wish I had seen this video before I started on removing my brake booster for my volvo xc90. It is similar and this video would have saved me lots of time and frustration. Thanks for the great explanation.
Thanks bluebox
👍 Excellent ! THX a lot 👍, very good views and comments ! 😊
Welcome!
Than you for your dedication to give as much information as possible in this video... It's greatly appreciated...
Most welcome Malcolm, appreciate the feedback!
Replacing the seal without removing the Booster from the car ruclips.net/video/saX-GG6s1Ck/видео.html
Click 'Read more' at the bottom of the comment Buy this seal and pressing tool by URO - note that you will still need a pry tool and it's critical not to touch the white plunger while working the seal out. Also note that the pressing pipe has one end at an angle, this end is the one used to press/tap the seal in as in the URO video below: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mercedes-W212-W204-W203-W163-X204-C209-Power-Brake-Booster-Plunger-Seal-Kit-URO/192370789193?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Booster seal install video by URO ruclips.net/video/VheQtHwWO5s/видео.html DON'T BUY THIS brake booster seal, it seems it is too large and difficult to fit: www.ebay.com/itm/MERCEDES-W163-ML-W203-W204-C-W209-CLK-BRAKE-SERVO-BOOSTER-SEAL-GASKET-REPAIR-KIT/253648287399 Lube has to be a quality silicone synthetic, never petroleum based grease! either with PTFE such as this one: www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Lube-92003-Silicone-Lubricating-Grease-with-PTFE-3-oz-Tube-Translucent/172456949323?epid=1700419801&hash=item28273c364b:g:h8wAAOSwEzxYXY7P Pump switch (or used from the junkyard/Ebay) www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-booster-vacuum-switch-s60-v70-xc70-s80-genuine-volvo-31265825 Vacuum pump
The XC90 T6 twin turbo appears to have the turbos blocking the brake booster
www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-brake-vacuum-pump-s60-s80-v70-xc70-xc90-hella-31317445 Brake booster replacement video (left hand driving cars) ruclips.net/video/jKcDOLIYR3A/видео.html Seal lubrication ruclips.net/video/TuA8nuIeQb8/видео.html Leaking seal will cause the pump to run after the engine is shut off ruclips.net/video/PRbWD2OGytk/видео.html Volvo forums (US) www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=9 Volvo forums (UK - diesel engines and manual transmissions) www.volvoforums.org.uk/forumdisplay.php?f=19 DIY Volvo S60 repair videos ruclips.net/p/PLl-l6yge4ast4eLeuPpECTts0FSVSOT_c
How were you able to lower the engine to remove the brake booster? A video might help.
@@hughpingue8966 You must have the right hand driving car, the video was done on a left hand driving car from North America. Indeed, on RHD cars you need to lower and support the rear of the subframe a few inches - you will need to disconnect the steering shaft inside the car at the wing screw - see this video ruclips.net/video/KG4KWNkgKjc/видео.html - you may also need to disconnect the two coolant hoses at the firewall - see my channel, disconnect the upper bolt on the end links, disconnect the upper engine torque mount, disconnect the 4 nuts at the end of the exhaust manifold, survey the brake line passing under the exhaust so you don't bent or stretch it and need to pay attention to fuel line passing near the engine mount at the crank pulley and also this mount can get damaged when lowering the subframe. I have a video showing how to remove the torsion bar, it gives more ideas about lowering the rear of the subframe. I also have a video showing how to replace the leaking booster seal without removing the booster from the car
I have a left hand drive XC90 twin turbo, the turbo along the firewall is in the way to remove the brake booster
@@hughpingue8966 Good info, the T6 engine ? I'll update the pinned comment
When you say you need to lower and support the rear subframe, how and which bolts do you have to undo? Do you have to remove the front engine mount from underneath ? This is all new to me, but I’m determined to get the job done.
Really nice video. Well explained. Thank you.
Welcome!
Wow, thankyou!! We need ours replaced because the plastic mount to the sensor are slightly broken inside.. 🥵 Our workshop wanted $500 to do the job.. That i dont have because i JUST replaced the entire engine 😵💫 and my brother wanted $150 to fix it, but have no idea WHEN he can come over to do the job... Screw it all. Im keeping my money and i am replacing it tonight by myself.. Can i replace an entire enginge, i can do this too 🤣
did you do it? How did it go? :O
Thank you so much for this video. I tried to have a mechanic do this and he said he had to have the ABS code to do the job and couldn't afford it in our area with so few Volvos. I didn't notice any part of the video about having to reset the ABS code or in any other video I've seen. Just wanting to check that out before starting the job myself but can't find anything online about having to reset the ABS code.
This is an old video so don't remember all details, but better disconnect the car battery if you need to remove/disconnect the ABS module to bring the servo out. It should not need reprogrammed - but again, the video was done on a Volvo so if you have a Mercedes it may be different, may want to ask first on a specific forum.
@@Peppermint1 Thank you so much! I do have an 0l V70. It lost the booster right after the engine was replaced so I am also looking at your other fine video on the seal. Thank you so very much!
@@Peppermint1 Just finished replacing booster and it fixed the hard brake and hissing, back on the road, thank you!!!!
@@helaodinson306 Good news!
Hy Fox, thanks so much for this helpful video. I should have seen it before starting to work... Nice job. Well done . Kind.
Hehe, hope it wasn't that hard 👍
yupp saved me a headache going to a mechanic instead lol
Mars WCheese lol I don’t blame you
good video to watch! i have a 2007 s60 2.5t i tried to replace the seal from inside the car and almost rolled the car off a cliff . ( just kidding)... so now i am half way through this exact job. i did leave the fuse box fully in place and loosened the abs unit, removed two hard lines going to the master so they wont bend at all. i believe it saved time ..
QUESTION: do you have any specific tips on how to properly fill and bleed the system when finished? or is it basically like any other car? thanks!
That's a very good question. That would meant only the master needs purged, the ABS unit would have been more difficult. See my channel what I did by pressing the pedal and slightly opening the lines to let the air out. I think there's two videos (not the best ones). When this done, I would also do a purge at the front left caliper with a long hose one end at the bleed screw, the other end about 1ft above the master cylinder level (with a cup to catch the fluid). Push the brakes to pump some fluid this way maybe 5 minutes (I put a brick under the pedal to give only about 2inch travel). This would 'force' the bubbles out of the master down into the caliper then out.
Thank you so much for this great video. At first I was a bit afraid to do this job, but now that i;ve seen your video I think I can do this job. How long did it take you to do this job? Greetings from a rainy Holland
It's takes several hours, the longer the better so as not to have any stress during this time. It takes skillful hands - or rather fingers. Don't forget to read the above comment with extra tips, every part is important to succeed, good luck!
Thank you for this.
Welcome
Hello, do you need to perform a brake bleed from the calipers after this job too? Or does the bleed from the cylinder negate that?
This is not related to the brake fluid, no need to bleed the brakes
@@Peppermint1 Ok thanks!
Hello. Quick question :)... Does that fuses box under hood have relays in both sides? On it cover where are fuses diagram saying Uper Side And Under Side.. So im think that under side in on bottom of that fuse box? I need to change my glow plug relay d5252t msa 15.8 v70II, and one is on uper side and the second is on under side....
Hi, I don't remember if there is relays on the other side, but I would recommend you try on this forum from UK, they have many D5 engines and surely can help www.volvoforums.org.uk/forumdisplay.php?f=19
by any chance are you romanian?
Salut a tous j'ai dû enlever
Maître cylindre pompe a vide
Durite refoulement turbo
Bloc abs
Boite a air
Boite a fusible
Pompe a vide
Sinon va passé pas
De quel coté est le volant sur ton auto, droite ou gauche? Et quel moteur et année? Merci
Brake pedal switch ruclips.net/video/NDxPQlK_WVY/видео.html
An example of a badly failed seal ruclips.net/video/7m9Zwg7IbBw/видео.html
Imptessiw channel