@@santimiranda9713 To check to see if the fretboard is level you need the tool that is long which you put over the frets if there is a gap underneath you need to adjust the trussrod accordingly watch Sean on scar my guitar he does many times when he sets up his guitars.
Great job, though I few things flagged up for me; • Check the neck is straight first, adjust accordingly (never normally straight). • Mark frets with a marker pen and use an actual levelling beam that's been machined accurately, precision is everything to get the best action and playability! • Use a fret rocker to ensure you've got level frets. • You could of crowned the frets with a better tip, they were still quite flat. Maybe try a 3 sided file for more precision again.
@@nefariouspreludev2.046 Yes you can do it by eye, but to avoid taking more material than necessary you want to use the marker pen. It also gives you a far better idea of high and low spots, it's takes longer but its worth it. 😇
@@nefariouspreludev2.046 Something worth noting is those gouges aren't guaranteed to be all the same depth, therefore eyeballing could result in uneven filing.
Good vid***tip for ya to make finishing easier,***before taking fret board,run piece tape from nut to end of neck on sides,then tape,when done just pull side Pape m pin all comes off usually one shot...top guy showed me long ago n saves alot time.. .
Whenever you see grooves like that on the frets…. It is not because the nut was cut too low….it is because the nut is too high…. The player is pressing a greater pressure to get to the frets and also causing sharping and probably playing out of tune. Whatever gauge of string you play, the setup is half of whatever the gauge is or, a .009… your natural nut slot should make that gauge ride across the first two-three frets and half or .04/.05. Bill Nash then takes it a step further by cutting the nut to just start buzzing and then goes back and removes some of the fret to make it play cleanly and that ensures a low comfortable action in which you barely press down for string to fret contact…. Makes for a low action and easier fretting period… most people never spend the money past the guitar purchase of a shitty factory set up which is neutral and basic. Nut slots are set high from the factory because they cannot possibly know if you play 9s or 13s…. Your set up means everything…. Nut set up is EVERYTHING PERIOD!! Get that wrong and replace frets in the first 5 frets…. Seriously!!
Too right, I started doing setups on the side after not being happy with setups from local shops. People don’t realise how big of a difference a good setup and fret dress can make to a guitar in any price bracket.
Yes. I use RS Guitar works in Winchester Kentucky. They are legendary. They do Joe Perry, Marty Stuart, cheap trick and others. Roy is a good Christian man that help people in need. I’ve sent several people that way and none of them could believe they got back the same guitar. Looks about the same…. But it just sounds like a dream. Did a Floyd Rose for my nephew that blew my mind. They have people that specialize in different guitar types. From acoustic to 12 string electrics to Bass. They can do it. Wood or electrical. They work magic and I can’t plug em enough.
The concave file you’re using doesn’t crown frets by just filing normally like you did. You need to address each fret and really tilt the file to crown from both sides. The Z-File would’ve been perfect for the application you followed for this video. It’s a great starting point but you have some very flat frets at the end of the video.
Yep, flat frets, beautifully polished but quite flat. They should be as round as possible as that gives the best intonation and control because of the smallest contact point between strings and frets.
when he tilts the guitar you can see the reflection of the light is not passing by as one it goes slowly from bottom to top which means there is a curve and that its not flat. otherwise you would have seen the light reflection quickly pass by like a mirror.
Without a fret rocker and marking the high points how do you know you're level and not taking too much off the top before crowning and polishing? Why are you using your leveling beam after crowning, prior to polishing?
Ok so I'm completely new to guitar setups but I thought the frets were supposed to end up rounded , "crowned", on the top. Some of those were still flat although polished very nicely. Does it matter or are you just trying to get the frets even all the way across? If that's so then why the crown file? Help me understand. Thanks
@@NumaVIG i think he means that *your* frets look flat up top center... which to the common eye, they do appear to be so. to mine... although, i do see the shape. but also have the same thought and confusion now. whether this is proper way of crowning frets or basically just your preference, or perhaps a bit of both? idk.. still looks killer ! 🤘
2:15 why do you have to level it again? Isnt it will uncrowned the leveled frets. And can you use a much finer grit like 1000 when you level it at first or does it have to be 600?
If u go up and down the fretboard with the sandpaper instead of side to side like he did they'll be more rounded. I like mine nice and crowned some like more flat like a LP
Unless you have perfect pitch.. you wouldn't notice a micro leveling.. but if you've gone from tall frets like 6105 and now they've been leveled so many times its barely a fret.. well ya might notice it then. But if your ear is that good... you should check out steve vai's jem that has fret correcting to make all the strings perfectly in tune.
No, solder is too soft. It does work but only for a very short time stop gap...an emergency part fix. No, you have to do something very similar to what's shown in this video.
The frets really are shiny. I’m not certain they are level though, well, I’m pretty sure they are not level, and the crown isn’t shaped correctly (it is round, but there is more to crowning then just making it round again). But they do look awesome. This is how frets should look after being polished, after being properly leveled and crowned. The purpose of fret leveling is to level all frets to an equal height. Then put the crown back (removing the flat from the leveled frets). The STEWMAC crowning file used will shape the fret, however, it removes more fret material from the top of the fret. When more material is removed from the top of the frets, then they are no longer level (again). Folks already mentioned using a fret rocker, ensuring the neck is adjusted to being straight, using a marking pen to get the thin line of the crown, when shaping the frets, of course the leveling beam needs to be dead flat (machined), may be the wood block was planed down to dead flat, but probably not.
Yes the tiniest details matter in such a meticulous operation as fret leveling and crowning. Your tools that need straight edges, they need to be flatter than shaken Coke lol
what's next after you polishing? install new sets of string and adjust the truss rod or adjust the truss rod first then install new sets of string? thank you for the answer.
Great video, I like the fact that apart from fret crowning file no specialist tools are used and is all obtainable stuff and the results are decent. Was neck on or off the body?
My frets buzz, 2-3 frets worn out like yours, yet my string action is still too high roughly from 12-24. But I don't have the scale to measure it. But I know it's very high. If I adjust from the truss rod to lower it then 1-3 frets buzz and i couldn't play it. This is pissing me off...
Hi, how can I determine what size fret file to buy? (1:21 in your video)... I know these tools can be expensive and I'd rather just buy the size that fits my frets rather than a whole set. Thanks for any advice....
I use this one tool for all types of frets (width from 2 to 3 mm) www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Types_of_Tools/Files/Double-edge_Fret_File.html Wide/Jumbo Item 4491
@@NumaVIG ok thanks... Also, I noticed you didn't use a radiused leveling block to level the frets (?) I saw you can print out radius templates, match them to your guitar and then buy radiused wood blocks that match the radius of your fingerboard? Otherwise, if you use a flat block won't you be taking off more material at the center of the frets than the sides?
@@basandi4017 try Hosco, the Japanese equivalent to stewmac, I believe they're readily available around the globe and produce high quality stuff at comparable prices..
Hands down the best, real deal results, fret polishing tutorial on the planet. Simplified down to a science, but wait this video isn't boring & actually holds my interest. I own & operate my own guitar repair business and I do everything exactly the same but have never tried (and I'm guessing here as to what you're using) the ABRASIVES FLEX-N-FINISH NON-WOVEN SANDING PADS -2000- or like a 3M Scotch-Brite Sanding Pad. Man that step made all the difference in the world. Thanks Numavigа
@@NumaVIG Is the 1500 you used in the video preferable to the 2000? I have 1500 sand paper, but not the sponge pad you have... will the 1500 sand paper work as well? Thanks in advance.
some of my frets give that shrill harmonic like overtone ringing and some frets are dull sounding no life ..do I need to level it like you show in your video or is it other issue ?
The shrill noise may be a result of high/uneven frets. I'd recommend you to do a regular levelling, crowning and polishing as shown here. This usually solves most of the problems. If it doesn't, then you can consult a luthier.
@@driftingmelodies 1:23 the tool used here is called a fret file, which you can buy for about 25-30 dollars, but I'd suggest you to use other diy/easier methods like using a simple triangle file. You can check out this channel called Guns and Guitars. He explains the process really well.
@@eshaandaksh2968 thank you .sorry for many questions ..I don't have long piece of sand paper .can I cut the sheet and paste them connecting on the level metal. can it smoothly move ?
@@driftingmelodies It is preferable to use an entire strip of sandpaper to keep it even, but using small strips work just as well. Just make sure that the entire surface is even, and there aren't uneven gaps or difference in height due to the adhesive.
Yes, if your buzz is indeed being caused by a high fret rather than any thing else. but the most important things are having the right tools and understanding your problem area. Is it one or two frets on only a couple strings? Or might you have more widespread problems? You're going to want completely level sanding blocks that cover nearly your whole fretboard if so. You wouldn't wanna normally say just level frets 1-4, because chances are they'll sink below any of the other frets and you'll get fretting out or buzzing.
see you. Good luck and better knowledge about installing frets on a guitar neck. From all the RUclips channels over the years I have observed the same thing. His mainstay is leveling and crowning, this shows that precise installation on the fretboard has not yet been mastered. Please search until you don't do that. so that the results are maximum, perfect and not detrimental to the height of the new frets. May it become a connection.
Dunno...doing a re-crown lowers the overall fret height in relation to the bottom of the string - and I wouldn't want to adjust the nut down - leads to kinda a "damned if you do/damned if you dont". IMO a recrown is a bandaid to a later needed refret. I think a recrown throws the overall fret to string height off even more the closer you get to the nut end and compromises ease in playability just for the sake of "leveling" (aka: trimming down the fret crown height to the bottom of the deepest divot on the fret...or do I have it all wrong?
Use a torch file to deepen your nut slots. Re-crown will give you some more years till you need a re-fret. Just buy a new neck after that cause a lutheir will just charge you 300 anyway. That's what I tell my customers.
@@nefariouspreludev2.046 Bullshit.....why would you change the original neck ? A refret is by far the better option if the neck is still in good serviceable condition. I pity your poor misguided "customers" being misguided by you. A new neck has to be levelled, crowned and polished anyway. They don't come out of the box like that unless you pay for it !! You have a lot to learn !
Where do you get your necks from, eBay? Your not understanding me buddy. You refret a 1954 strat cause you wanna keep it original. You buy a new neck for a mim strat because its not worth a refret. Make sense now? This really only applies for bolt on necks.
@@nefariouspreludev2.046 No, you don’t get me obviously. As I said, a new neck still has to be set up, levelled, crowned and polished, Jesus Christ you should know that!! What is the problem with a Mexican neck, if in good condition they are totally worth a re-fret? I’ve never seen anything so ludicrous, it’s quite scary. I don’t exactly know what you are to be honest? it’s hard to work out but I know that I would never want you anywhere near one of my instruments.
@@keithgray7593 - Fundamentally Nefs opinion (if I'm guessing this right) is based on a cost/benefit scenario. MIM Fenders are moving up in price (and quality) so IMO, a refret makes sense. Of course if youre playing a Squier or off-brand then maybe a more disposable option makes sense...meaning pitch it to Goodwill. I have a guy who refrets as a specialty and his work is $ reasonable ... hes a good honest dude who knows his craft.
This sanding block isn't the right tool for leveling. You need a radius block to match the fretboard radius. Also your motions while sanding are wrong. The motions have to be straight forward and back. If you doesn't do that the radius of the frets were off
Nope - sorry but you are wrong. You only need a radiused block if you sanding the fretboard wood directly (with frets removed). For fret levelling, any straight edge fret levelling file is suffice and good enough for the job
The sanding block is to level the frets, they need to be recrowned and polished after. This isn't a great video to learn from id recommend looking elsewhere before trying this
Best video I've seen, too. Thanks. I'm gonna give it a go on my very old Tele, as my frets look about as worn as those were. I thought it was beyond salvation, but now you've inspired me. Great job all round mate. Quick edit: Did you have to file nut afterwards?
Best video you've seen? Have you been looking on pornhub? He used a fucking piece of wood to flatten them and didn't even check if they were all inline with eachother, then we flattened them after crowning! God I hope you did a better job than he did.
Daves tip; turn up your amp, and dont get drunk when you play. You wont put a death grip on the neck that grinds ruts into the frets!!!!! I used to oet a guitar guy use my american strat. He was always pickled to the gills on stage and after 2 gigs he had already ground ruts in my 1400$ guitars frets. Scumbag. Change you habits and you wont have to fuck around recrowning ruts out of frets. Another tip for saving frets, put humbuckers in everything. All the sound of your fingers goes out to the amp. For the best sound and tone, do it eddie van halen style just put a volume control in the circuit, no tone junk. Even better-just wire your humbuckers straight to the jack like i do. My amp never misses any tones or harmonics i play.
You’re kidding, right? Trolling us maybe? Some folks have a lighter touch and playing style than others. Some folks really dig in when they play. It’s called MUSICAL EXPRESSION. Nickel frets were never made to last forever. They were made to be replaceable if and when necessary. Some would say, “If you don’t have any fret wear, you’re not doing it right.” Either that or you aren’t playing enough…. Or you have so many guitars that none of them get played regularly enough to have fret wear. Humbuckers and turning up your amp are not substitutes for playing a guitar in an expressive manner while trying to make sure you don’t harm your frets. Play like you mean it!
Didn't mark off frets with permanent marker before leveling or crowing. Huge amount of flat left on top of the frets after the work. Ignore this video and go watch something else.
This video is going to create more work for real guitar techs, after the noobs who try to perform a fret level (with no actual re-crown) like it is shown here, damage the frets on their guitars.
They used 2use pure nickle strings. Then 80 / 20 then phosphorpus. All done to INCREASE FRET WEAR. protest. Say YES TO ALUMINUM. Sar NO to stainless frets. Say YES to TRUE stainless frets. Hi strings must be PLATED TIN OR NICKLE etc.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Hi boys and girls,
before you start sanding the frets, you better check if your neck is dead straight!
What do u mean?
@@santimiranda9713 To check to see if the fretboard is level you need the tool that is long which you put over the frets if there is a gap underneath you need to adjust the trussrod accordingly watch Sean on scar my guitar he does many times when he sets up his guitars.
@@santimiranda9713he means make sure your truss rod doesn’t need to be adjusted
@@fishingwithsasquatchoutdoors He means turn it so its dead straight WITHOUT string tension before leveling.
Use a notched straight edge to do this
Excellent video on what not to do to your fretboard.
Great job, though I few things flagged up for me;
• Check the neck is straight first, adjust accordingly (never normally straight).
• Mark frets with a marker pen and use an actual levelling beam that's been machined accurately, precision is everything to get the best action and playability!
• Use a fret rocker to ensure you've got level frets.
• You could of crowned the frets with a better tip, they were still quite flat. Maybe try a 3 sided file for more precision again.
@@Max-The-Axe oh yeah man, you really can!...🤫
When the frets are gouged like that you don't have to use marker, just pay attention for the divots to disappear.
@@nefariouspreludev2.046 Yes you can do it by eye, but to avoid taking more material than necessary you want to use the marker pen. It also gives you a far better idea of high and low spots, it's takes longer but its worth it. 😇
@@nefariouspreludev2.046 Something worth noting is those gouges aren't guaranteed to be all the same depth, therefore eyeballing could result in uneven filing.
Should I set neck relief beforehand?
Good vid***tip for ya to make finishing easier,***before taking fret board,run piece tape from nut to end of neck on sides,then tape,when done just pull side Pape m pin all comes off usually one shot...top guy showed me long ago n saves alot time.. .
YOOOOOOO Thanks man!
Thank you!
Whenever you see grooves like that on the frets…. It is not because the nut was cut too low….it is because the nut is too high…. The player is pressing a greater pressure to get to the frets and also causing sharping and probably playing out of tune. Whatever gauge of string you play, the setup is half of whatever the gauge is or, a .009… your natural nut slot should make that gauge ride across the first two-three frets and half or .04/.05. Bill Nash then takes it a step further by cutting the nut to just start buzzing and then goes back and removes some of the fret to make it play cleanly and that ensures a low comfortable action in which you barely press down for string to fret contact…. Makes for a low action and easier fretting period… most people never spend the money past the guitar purchase of a shitty factory set up which is neutral and basic. Nut slots are set high from the factory because they cannot possibly know if you play 9s or 13s…. Your set up means everything…. Nut set up is EVERYTHING PERIOD!! Get that wrong and replace frets in the first 5 frets…. Seriously!!
Too right, I started doing setups on the side after not being happy with setups from local shops. People don’t realise how big of a difference a good setup and fret dress can make to a guitar in any price bracket.
Yes. I use RS Guitar works in Winchester Kentucky. They are legendary. They do Joe Perry, Marty Stuart, cheap trick and others. Roy is a good Christian man that help people in need. I’ve sent several people that way and none of them could believe they got back the same guitar. Looks about the same…. But it just sounds like a dream. Did a Floyd Rose for my nephew that blew my mind. They have people that specialize in different guitar types. From acoustic to 12 string electrics to Bass. They can do it. Wood or electrical. They work magic and I can’t plug em enough.
The concave file you’re using doesn’t crown frets by just filing normally like you did. You need to address each fret and really tilt the file to crown from both sides. The Z-File would’ve been perfect for the application you followed for this video. It’s a great starting point but you have some very flat frets at the end of the video.
Yep, flat frets, beautifully polished but quite flat. They should be as round as possible as that gives the best intonation and control because of the smallest contact point between strings and frets.
when he tilts the guitar you can see the reflection of the light is not passing by as one it goes slowly from bottom to top which means there is a curve and that its not flat. otherwise you would have seen the light reflection quickly pass by like a mirror.
@@xMickx nope. you can see before he even starts polishing how flat they are.
What about keeping the radius?
Beautiful polishing! Not so sure about the leveling and crowning…
Thanks for the vid!
Without a fret rocker and marking the high points how do you know you're level and not taking too much off the top before crowning and polishing? Why are you using your leveling beam after crowning, prior to polishing?
I was thinking the same thing. Some of them didn’t look level or looked like they weren’t crowned enough but it’s hard to tell
The frets are angled but they should be hemispherical.
Taha Arslan angled? Do you mean crowned? They need to be level with each other on top.
I don't see how this can be accurate without marking the tops and sanding till the marks are all gone before crowning the frets.
Also my problem with the video. The frets look beautiful, but you should never take a leveling beam after you've crowned. It defeats the purpose.
Ok so I'm completely new to guitar setups but I thought the frets were supposed to end up rounded , "crowned", on the top. Some of those were still flat although polished very nicely. Does it matter or are you just trying to get the frets even all the way across? If that's so then why the crown file? Help me understand. Thanks
if you think that the frets still flat it means you need to replace it
@@NumaVIG i think he means that *your* frets look flat up top center... which to the common eye, they do appear to be so. to mine... although, i do see the shape. but also have the same thought and confusion now. whether this is proper way of crowning frets or basically just your preference, or perhaps a bit of both? idk.. still looks killer ! 🤘
2:15 why do you have to level it again? Isnt it will uncrowned the leveled frets. And can you use a much finer grit like 1000 when you level it at first or does it have to be 600?
It will be uncrowned a little bit, later everything will be perfect. 1000 can be used at first but it will be much longer.
@@NumaVIG What are you high on?
What green object you use
(3:10)
Stainless Steel Polishing Compound
@@NumaVIG Thanks :)
that's got to play like a million bucks now
Those frets' flat areas still look pretty thick. Nice polishing tho
Doesn't matter to much if the a little flat. You just adust the intonation
If u go up and down the fretboard with the sandpaper instead of side to side like he did they'll be more rounded. I like mine nice and crowned some like more flat like a LP
Looks really flat with no crown.
This is a terrible video....it will have lots of people going on to butcher their frets now !
Oh great, thanks youtube dislikes
Thanks for the warning though
@@Bassman1999 idiot!
I'm dreading this. It's time and I'm scared to have it done. My fear is frets becoming too flat.
Why did you sand before filing?
What about the nut? lowering the first few frets will make the notes sharp if you leave the nut slots at the same height
Unless you have perfect pitch.. you wouldn't notice a micro leveling.. but if you've gone from tall frets like 6105 and now they've been leveled so many times its barely a fret.. well ya might notice it then.
But if your ear is that good... you should check out steve vai's jem that has fret correcting to make all the strings perfectly in tune.
I got 2 questions for this:
2:56 - Is that a steel wool?
3:09 - What is that? And are we use the towel or cloth for clean after it?
Mirka Mirlon and stainless steel polishing compound
@@NumaVIG Thank you!!
Frets don't appear to be properly crowned. Should be a very thin peak on each fret.
Very good. I'll just #0000 for now. Frets aren't bad. Whos the backing soundtrack?
Would the polishing steps work if I filled in gaps in my fret with solder?
Solder too soft
That was not a good idea
No, solder is too soft. It does work but only for a very short time stop gap...an emergency part fix.
No, you have to do something very similar to what's shown in this video.
Those frets are in need of a tone-control to adjust the brightness 😎
The frets really are shiny. I’m not certain they are level though, well, I’m pretty sure they are not level, and the crown isn’t shaped correctly (it is round, but there is more to crowning then just making it round again). But they do look awesome. This is how frets should look after being polished, after being properly leveled and crowned.
The purpose of fret leveling is to level all frets to an equal height. Then put the crown back (removing the flat from the leveled frets). The STEWMAC crowning file used will shape the fret, however, it removes more fret material from the top of the fret. When more material is removed from the top of the frets, then they are no longer level (again). Folks already mentioned using a fret rocker, ensuring the neck is adjusted to being straight, using a marking pen to get the thin line of the crown, when shaping the frets, of course the leveling beam needs to be dead flat (machined), may be the wood block was planed down to dead flat, but probably not.
Yes the tiniest details matter in such a meticulous operation as fret leveling and crowning. Your tools that need straight edges, they need to be flatter than shaken Coke lol
@@mathprodigy exactly! Lol
Is that a Rock version of “Ants go marching in” at the beginning?
What a joy to watch. Now, that's how you make a great video. Well done.
Excuse the dumb question, what is the green wax?
what's next after you polishing? install new sets of string and adjust the truss rod or adjust the truss rod first then install new sets of string? thank you for the answer.
Strings have to be on the guitar to adjust the truss rod.
Retard 🚨 alert
Great video, I like the fact that apart from fret crowning file no specialist tools are used and is all obtainable stuff and the results are decent. Was neck on or off the body?
Thanks. Neck is off the body, it is possible without removing just a little uncomfortable
Plain sandpaper on metal?
what is that green stuff at 3:09?
Stainless Steel Polishing Compound
What's the green ball ? 3:10 minute, how is the name of this product ? Please
Stainless Steel Polishing Compound
@@NumaVIG thank you so much, is the first time that I've see this green product. Nice job with the frets excellent 👌👌👌
My frets buzz, 2-3 frets worn out like yours, yet my string action is still too high roughly from 12-24. But I don't have the scale to measure it. But I know it's very high. If I adjust from the truss rod to lower it then 1-3 frets buzz and i couldn't play it. This is pissing me off...
Sounds like the nut slots cut too deep, or thinner string than the nut was cut for.
Hi, how can I determine what size fret file to buy? (1:21 in your video)... I know these tools can be expensive and I'd rather just buy the size that fits my frets rather than a whole set. Thanks for any advice....
I use this one tool for all types of frets (width from 2 to 3 mm) www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Types_of_Tools/Files/Double-edge_Fret_File.html
Wide/Jumbo Item 4491
@@NumaVIG ok thanks... Also, I noticed you didn't use a radiused leveling block to level the frets (?) I saw you can print out radius templates, match them to your guitar and then buy radiused wood blocks that match the radius of your fingerboard? Otherwise, if you use a flat block won't you be taking off more material at the center of the frets than the sides?
I use a narrow leveling block (23 mm width), radiused block is not needed
Awsome 👍Any alternative for UK? Can't get stewmac fret file ☹️
@@basandi4017 try Hosco, the Japanese equivalent to stewmac, I believe they're readily available around the globe and produce high quality stuff at comparable prices..
Did you make sure the neck is flat before sanding?
Level, not flat.
Что за музыка на 1:58 играет??
Won't have any problems doing a group of frets at a time or i have to do all of them at a time?
I always polished all frets, it's better
can you help us do a guitar fret crowing file review on youtube?it is really very nice
sorry, but now it's only RC planes channel
What's that on §:10 ? What's the Name of that green thing? Thanks!
read the description below video
first sandpaper grid?
Whats that green thing
Hands down the best, real deal results, fret polishing tutorial on the planet. Simplified down to a science, but wait this video isn't boring & actually holds my interest. I own & operate my own guitar repair business and I do everything exactly the same but have never tried (and I'm guessing here as to what you're using) the ABRASIVES FLEX-N-FINISH NON-WOVEN SANDING PADS -2000- or like a 3M Scotch-Brite Sanding Pad. Man that step made all the difference in the world. Thanks Numavigа
Thanks, I use MIRKA Mirlon Ultra Fine (1500), Micro Fine (2000), Gold Micro Fine (2500). On video you see UF1500 (my mistake)
@@NumaVIG It looks like Mirka Mirlon has a better price too. Thanks again for the info. I like the noticeable results
@@NumaVIG Is the 1500 you used in the video preferable to the 2000? I have 1500 sand paper, but not the sponge pad you have... will the 1500 sand paper work as well? Thanks in advance.
@@socialdef3 I think 1500 is ok, you need to try
About what he did, does it have to be done on every fret, or only on the damaged ones?
3:11 What is this ?
polishing compound
What tape did he use?
Best fret DYI on RUclips.
Is it still working if I do it to my bass?
I mean it not same radius from your electric guitar
no difference, for bass all exactly the same
ano yang green na bato boss?
what's the tool at 1:21 called?
Double-edge Fret File
@@NumaVIG thank u!
Looks beautiful.
some of my frets give that shrill harmonic like overtone ringing and some frets are dull sounding no life ..do I need to level it like you show in your video or is it other issue ?
The shrill noise may be a result of high/uneven frets. I'd recommend you to do a regular levelling, crowning and polishing as shown here. This usually solves most of the problems. If it doesn't, then you can consult a luthier.
@@eshaandaksh2968 OK what is that second tool called that long flat iron thing ?
@@driftingmelodies 1:23 the tool used here is called a fret file, which you can buy for about 25-30 dollars, but I'd suggest you to use other diy/easier methods like using a simple triangle file. You can check out this channel called Guns and Guitars. He explains the process really well.
@@eshaandaksh2968 thank you .sorry for many questions ..I don't have long piece of sand paper .can I cut the sheet and paste them connecting on the level metal. can it smoothly move ?
@@driftingmelodies It is preferable to use an entire strip of sandpaper to keep it even, but using small strips work just as well. Just make sure that the entire surface is even, and there aren't uneven gaps or difference in height due to the adhesive.
What is the green thing? (3:10)
Stainless Steel Polishing Compound
@@NumaVIG Thank you.
Is this method effective to get rid of fret buzz in guitar?
Yes, if your buzz is indeed being caused by a high fret rather than any thing else. but the most important things are having the right tools and understanding your problem area. Is it one or two frets on only a couple strings? Or might you have more widespread problems? You're going to want completely level sanding blocks that cover nearly your whole fretboard if so. You wouldn't wanna normally say just level frets 1-4, because chances are they'll sink below any of the other frets and you'll get fretting out or buzzing.
Freakin impressive
see you. Good luck and better knowledge about installing frets on a guitar neck. From all the RUclips channels over the years I have observed the same thing. His mainstay is leveling and crowning, this shows that precise installation on the fretboard has not yet been mastered. Please search until you don't do that. so that the results are maximum, perfect and not detrimental to the height of the new frets. May it become a connection.
What is that green thing ?
www.google.com/search?q=green+polishing+thing
@@NumaVIG haha thanks man!!
Genius thanks I got the tools just not the curved rasp. Only normal ones. Hmm
Great video ,.....what fret size wire did you use ,.......don't like when it's too small !
2,8mm
Thanks for the video, what made the frets even withough the dimples? And what is the green polishing thing made of?
www.google.com/search?q=green+polishing+thing
Yep flat frets buzz brother .
Dunno...doing a re-crown lowers the overall fret height in relation to the bottom of the string - and I wouldn't want to adjust the nut down - leads to kinda a "damned if you do/damned if you dont". IMO a recrown is a bandaid to a later needed refret. I think a recrown throws the overall fret to string height off even more the closer you get to the nut end and compromises ease in playability just for the sake of "leveling" (aka: trimming down the fret crown height to the bottom of the deepest divot on the fret...or do I have it all wrong?
Use a torch file to deepen your nut slots. Re-crown will give you some more years till you need a re-fret. Just buy a new neck after that cause a lutheir will just charge you 300 anyway. That's what I tell my customers.
@@nefariouspreludev2.046 Bullshit.....why would you change the original neck ? A refret is by far the better option if the neck is still in good serviceable condition. I pity your poor misguided "customers" being misguided by you. A new neck has to be levelled, crowned and polished anyway. They don't come out of the box like that unless you pay for it !! You have a lot to learn !
Where do you get your necks from, eBay? Your not understanding me buddy. You refret a 1954 strat cause you wanna keep it original. You buy a new neck for a mim strat because its not worth a refret. Make sense now? This really only applies for bolt on necks.
@@nefariouspreludev2.046 No, you don’t get me obviously. As I said, a new neck still has to be set up, levelled, crowned and polished, Jesus Christ you should know that!! What is the problem with a Mexican neck, if in good condition they are totally worth a re-fret? I’ve never seen anything so ludicrous, it’s quite scary. I don’t exactly know what you are to be honest? it’s hard to work out but I know that I would never want you anywhere near one of my instruments.
@@keithgray7593 - Fundamentally Nefs opinion (if I'm guessing this right) is based on a cost/benefit scenario. MIM Fenders are moving up in price (and quality) so IMO, a refret makes sense. Of course if youre playing a Squier or off-brand then maybe a more disposable option makes sense...meaning pitch it to Goodwill. I have a guy who refrets as a specialty and his work is $ reasonable ... hes a good honest dude who knows his craft.
Very impressive!
This sanding block isn't the right tool for leveling. You need a radius block to match the fretboard radius.
Also your motions while sanding are wrong. The motions have to be straight forward and back. If you doesn't do that the radius of the frets were off
don't worry about radius of the frets, it never off
Nope - sorry but you are wrong. You only need a radiused block if you sanding the fretboard wood directly (with frets removed). For fret levelling, any straight edge fret levelling file is suffice and good enough for the job
How about no, Scott?
I feel like that sanding block will ruin the crowning. But I don't have much experience
The sanding block is to level the frets, they need to be recrowned and polished after. This isn't a great video to learn from id recommend looking elsewhere before trying this
@@midnightgaming4269 gotcha thanks
I use a orbital sander
Cool the best guitar frets 👍👍👍👍
Блин, уже почти год такой напильник дома лежит - а всё никак не могу свою китай-гитару запилить. Запишу с список дел:)
А где такой напильник взять?
на паузе прекрасно виден бренд и номер изделия
@@NumaVIG спасибо! только я спросил ГДЕ?
@@AlexSilvan в ГУГЛЕ!!!
The frets are polished perfectly, but they are pretty flat.
hey bro whats up?i have question pls answer...I crowned my frets but the top of the frets are just a little bit flat...Is that make problem?thank you
on long-used frets it's always little bit flat top, I think it's not a big problem. Also need to polish it very well
@@NumaVIG thank you for your answer bro
Can this damage happen in just a few day's? I bought a Chinese guitar.
Damn nice work!!
I have my very own guitar guy for this 😂 ( my brother is a luthier 😊 I play, he does what ever is needed to my guitar(s).
Can you list the steps in words with specific tools and paper types.
Thanks
Check my fretboard invention. I need to polish
Yes please.
That 2nd fret looks flatAF in the last frame of the vid. Yikes.
Best video I've seen, too. Thanks.
I'm gonna give it a go on my very old Tele, as my frets look about as worn as those were. I thought it was beyond salvation, but now you've inspired me.
Great job all round mate.
Quick edit: Did you have to file nut afterwards?
Matt Rayner how’d it go?
Best video you've seen? Have you been looking on pornhub? He used a fucking piece of wood to flatten them and didn't even check if they were all inline with eachother, then we flattened them after crowning! God I hope you did a better job than he did.
Super
I will have to try this
background music sounds like KISS
Beautiful work.👍
Daves tip; turn up your amp, and dont get drunk when you play. You wont put a death grip on the neck that grinds ruts into the frets!!!!! I used to oet a guitar guy use my american strat. He was always pickled to the gills on stage and after 2 gigs he had already ground ruts in my 1400$ guitars frets. Scumbag. Change you habits and you wont have to fuck around recrowning ruts out of frets. Another tip for saving frets, put humbuckers in everything. All the sound of your fingers goes out to the amp. For the best sound and tone, do it eddie van halen style just put a volume control in the circuit, no tone junk. Even better-just wire your humbuckers straight to the jack like i do. My amp never misses any tones or harmonics i play.
You’re kidding, right? Trolling us maybe?
Some folks have a lighter touch and playing style than others. Some folks really dig in when they play. It’s called MUSICAL EXPRESSION. Nickel frets were never made to last forever. They were made to be replaceable if and when necessary. Some would say, “If you don’t have any fret wear, you’re not doing it right.” Either that or you aren’t playing enough…. Or you have so many guitars that none of them get played regularly enough to have fret wear.
Humbuckers and turning up your amp are not substitutes for playing a guitar in an expressive manner while trying to make sure you don’t harm your frets.
Play like you mean it!
Terrible advice
Пркольно. Только вот напильника такого нету(
Мож болгаркой попробовать?)))
👍
is it me or Sid that block look not level
beautiful job!
Бормашинкой все это в разы быстрее делается, ювелирным инструментом
Amazing job 👌👍🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟
Didn't mark off frets with permanent marker before leveling or crowing. Huge amount of flat left on top of the frets after the work. Ignore this video and go watch something else.
This video is going to create more work for real guitar techs, after the noobs who try to perform a fret level (with no actual re-crown) like it is shown here, damage the frets on their guitars.
keep your greasy fingers off my guitar .. nice that's a lot of elbow grease but worth it i would run tape under the fret I'm a clutch
thank you :D
The fret filing seemed oversimplified
this video could have saved me $250. damn...
Lol
The music is distracting and annoying
This is a great technique for shining up the frets of a wall-hanger guitar. If you play it, don't do this to it.
Don't get now better 'n that!
Congratulations, you have just deleted your fret crowns.....
Thank God for the mute button..
Sorry but this does not look good. A lot of material was taken off but the frets still weren't crowned at the end. Try the sharpie method.
This is why RUclips needs a dislike button
Hmmmm
Good video if you are trying to achieve flat frets.
They used 2use pure nickle strings.
Then 80 / 20 then phosphorpus. All done to INCREASE FRET WEAR.
protest.
Say YES TO ALUMINUM.
Sar NO to stainless frets. Say YES to TRUE stainless frets.
Hi strings must be PLATED TIN OR NICKLE etc.
Don't.